I REGRET 3D Printing A $2000 WARLORD TITAN
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Printers and equipment I used are here -
Sonic Mighty 8K: phrozen3d.net/...
Sonic Mini 8K S: phrozen3d.net/...
Wash & Cure Kit: phrozen3d.net/...
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Printers / Wash Cure
Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8k - amzn.to/3D2VY2P
Phrozen Wash And Cure Station - amzn.to/44ycDHd
Phrozen Aqua Grey 8k Resin - amzn.to/3rejC9T
Sunlu ABS Like Resin - amzn.to/3pLy3BQ
Airbrush Kit (The kit I use)
Fengda Kit: amzn.to/3Tdsar5
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This video was inspired from channels like Midwinter Minis, Goobertown Hobbies, WintersSeo, Say Hi Paul, Squidmar Miniatures, Miniac Painting, Black Magic Craft, Real Terrain Hobbies and Geek gaming scenics.
I love seeing people use the cones of calibration. I was apart of it's development and think Tableflip is the best. Thanks for sharing your experience
Awesome! Thanks for creating such a useful file!
Hopefully bump this up - it’s such a god send! Thanks for your work brother
My only piece of advice is to pin the legs to the torso. Those files have the legs mount to the torso with a ball joint which provides ZERO structural support to the model's 7kg torso. I had one of my legs completely fall off before drilling some holes for dowel rods. Also, I printed mine with chitubox and the auto-support worked amazingly..... when set to 70% density. Any lower is too few, any more causes the supports to merge.
Possibly the best 3D printing channel around.
My king 👑
Definitely the most fun one, to be sure!
I agree the most fun one for sure.
Love this series! I'm printing and supporting just a warhound, i can imagine the pain with a Warlord!!!!!! Stay positive and keep up the amazing work!
Day 1 of asking for a Tsons stomping on toasters diorama
THE PEOPLE WANT THIS
THE PEOPLE NEED THIS
Dude! recently printed resin can be brittle, even the ABS one, I usually clean the piece with the supports and the clip them with a clipper, its slower and much less satisfying, but man, you save A LOT of prints
Split the middle. Remove any easy ones and any that wont pull right off you can sort later. That's what's worked best for me.
"If you know, you know." wish I knew lol
Me too
That cowl snap looks perfect placement for a laser burn scar to save the piece and give the model character. It even looks like a failed head shot. 6:38
I won't lie it took me days of printing to get all the pieces printed and assembled
I am currently printing this titan, and decided to not scale down (mostly becasue i didnt know). So now im going to have a massive titan. Most of the body frame is done in PLA, save for the feet to give it some weight. The armor and weapons are resin.
I’m printing mine it’s been a month and half. All armor and small parts like hydraulic are resins the rest FDM at super detail setting. Each part are like 1,2-3 day prints
Excellent, what infill/wall settings did you use for the fdm?
So, if you don’t know, I guess it doesn’t really matter if model is taken down or not, since you can’t get it either way.
Thanks to your videos I have been poking around trying to find the stls for these amazing giant models, I am still a noob at hunting though, and have had no luck finding this Warlord model, only a smaller scale one with less detail. Love your work, hopefully an Imperator is in the future!
angle things. too many of those fails were cos the plates were with too many horizontal lines. The shear force will always do this, just rotate them 20 degrees and this will work better
I swapped to ABS like resin for most of my minis. Haven't looked back.
May Vashtorr guide your fabricators Cousin.
FOR CHAAAOOOSS
Many of the reasons described above is why I'm currently in the process of printing my Warlord titan in PLA on FDM.
The prints take longer, yes it's more annoying, but it is slightly cheaper than the resin approach (especially with bulk discounts on PLA and PETG recently) you could theoretically print it for as low as $60, but expect to pay more around $100-120 (at least you don't spend an additional $10-20 on gloves, IPA, etc)
PLA is about as light as the resin all things told (it's a significantly lighter but requires more support, so it ends up being only slightly lighter) however, it is far more durable, and if done right, you can (I have tested and proven this) grab one of the pieces, jump up and then proceed to slam down a failed print, and all you end up with is a sizeable dent or scratch depending on where it lands.
I'm sure on the pieces where it's thinnest it will probably still crack, however it will do so because of a large amount of force, enough that would easily break/shatter either the FW resin or 3D printed resin, but in most cases it will be more than durable.
On top of that, easily magnetized, cheaper, etc. The only reason I haven't finished printing my Warlord back in February is because I ran into a 3D printing slump and only occasionally print small things.
I'll get around to finishing the Warlord eventually ;)
i use resin because i dont want to spend a lot of time sanding so the paint applies smoothly to models, i have ditched basic resin for ABS like which is much better for handling and processing, PLA weighs more then most resin PLA-1.43g cubic cm vs UV resib-1.17g cubic cm, i usually get any cubic ABS like Pro 2 for $20 in bulk for 1kg, the expensive part is the post processing equipment and materials for me its easily $400 on cure/wash station, 8 gallons of IPA they i recycle, and a years worth of nitril gloves and paper towels, DIY solutions are much cheaper but less convenient.
Already printed this warlord titan. Took me almost two month to support it and print it. The process to empty the model, add support, test them in UV Tools, correct them... was a pain... But I kept all my lychee project files.
I would love to to do the same I'm not sure where to look. I have a P1P and a Jupiter to print with. I just finished printing a Leviathan tank.
Why would you reprint a snaped part?
You can just pin glue it back together
I feel your pain BB, I’m about to start experimenting with adding Tenacious from Syria tech (misspelled) in hopes of less fragile parts. Love the Discord group
Thanks brother its a great community 😁 I should probably try tenacious as well
hell yeah ❤️❤️ loving this Titan Series!
Thanks brother 😁
Mmm the tears help the prints work
I'm not crying it's just eye sweat from the heat
yup yup. my brother bought me abs resin and omg i never want to go to any other brand. ive dropped some ExtraGuy titan fall models and they didnt even crack.
i would say this to help boost your morale, this is more like a learning journey. i was going to print a titan after i moved but now i know i need to make sure i get the right resin. i only know this now because of you.
so PRINT, PRINT TILL THERES NO TOMORROW AND MAKE THE RESIN GOD HAPPY!
RESIN FOR THE RESIN GOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!
love your work and dedication to the hobby, am also printing a Warhound, Reaver and Warbringer all at the same time
Chad prints my guy. Keep on trucking!
Thanks brother!
Can't wait to see you paint these bad boys up
Why did all the parts need to be scaled down?
Now you have spare parts for your Chaos Titian bases!
😂😂😂 That's very true
I'm into 3d printing myself since january, dont get why you have so much trouble with the supports, printing that Warlord Titan myself atm (still missing ~10-15 parts currently).
I use the Anycube Photon Workshop software , load model, click scale to 90% , click hollow (no internal supports), click "generate supports" and then i'm done. (1-1.5 min work depending if i need to add punctures , always at least add 2 , one for the resin to go through one for it to suck air in, this also place them in a way that they are not visible when displaying your model, and in a way that the resin can drip of when already printing)
The automatic supports from anycube photon workshop worked perfect for me in all but one instance, were i needed to reprint a piece with medium instead of my light supports. (even reduced the auto generated support to >50° angles). In comparison I would say i have 50% less supports then what I see in your Video, especially the massive support parts under the cowl could be the reason why it broke in the first place.
since i hollow all of my parts (and puncture most of them so i can get rid of internal resin), I use way way less resin then your 10kg I guess (seems to end up to about 5kg).
Maybe you should give the Anycube software a try , I know it lacks many many many features, but to be honest, who cares if the print result still is perfect in 98% for a fraktion of the work ? (you will never get 100% , so who cares if you made the error or the automatic calculations?)
Took me around 3h to support all files this way and most time was wasted for the big pieces that needed to be rotated dozens of times before they "fit" onto my plate.
Also my Titan will be way lighter and there is less risk of it collapsing under its own weight this way (just a thought?).
I'm using a Anycube Photon D2 (DLP Printer), printing the parts for about ~ a month now , i can at least see the finish line right now, yeay!
Info for everyone with "smaller" printer ( 131 x 73 x 165mm ):
4 Parts were to big for that printer and I needed to cut them, but the result was surprisingly nice and i could print both half's in one go everytime (less time wasted).
For resin i switched to "clear" transparent water washable resins, easier to work with water for me and transparent because it makes it WAY easier to weld parts together which were to big for my printer (this way the resin will also be cured in the inside of the piece and not only the edges, which results in a extreme stable weld). just , dip both ends a millimeter in the vat when finished and then weld them under an UV lamp, use sandpaper to remove overlapping resin (place the cut strategically on a place were the sanding step is no problem later! )
Also another tip for everyone out there with failed prints, always check your zero, set my zero before adding a foil onto my glass , this f*** my prints :D
Hope anyone finds any of my tips helpfull
Ohhh mate, I am nearly finished mine, just waiting on... you guessed it. more resin!
Been watching your titan series and love the content. I’ve been doing my own legio mortis maniple and I’m a few titans in. Next is the warlord 😁
2500 shovel propelled insane boys or a titan …
you should check out a the resins by resione, printed in their anti-impact for example this thing would be nearly indestructable! even throwing it or stepping on it wouldn't break it!
the reaver was taken down so no updates for me still a good model will print off soon still undecided on what titan legion i am going to paint im currently painting a alpha legion army but i dont like yellow so i might have to make up my own
dam it been so tempted to start this think I'm going to have to take the leap when next resin arrives ... just ordered 10kg more
Do it brother 😈
@@battlebrothersam only thing putting me off a little is opr doesn't seem to have rules for it yet would love to go stomping in opr with it lol
Dunk your freshly cleaned parts in hot water to remove the supports. Makes it a lot easier.
You’re doing great dude
Thanks brother Carl 😁
*Praise to the cube!*
Sunlu high toughness resin mixed with standard resin at 25%/75% ration has worked well for me in toughness to price.
i use sunlu because its so cheap and only use abs like with 10% - 15% syraya tech tenacious as an additive and the amount of minis that have fallen from my shelf onto hard tile floor that have been saved is a god send. the will snap in the glue points but that's the weakest part
What does the tenacious do for you mixed in the sunlu abs like? Just tried sunlu for the first time and it’s great-less brittle than the elegoo 8k / tenacious mix I was using previously and easier support removal too. I found that adding tenacious makes support removal significantly more unpleasant, at least for elegoo 8k resin. The sunlu abs like already seems pretty great, what does adding the tenacious do?
@@pbkobold makes it nearly 3x stronger and little bits/swords or poles etc more flexible so they don't snap. Abs is tough but the then parts will snap mad they don't take impact well... Instead of shattering like regular resin it will bounce/absorb the kinetics force much better. The only snaps is in the glue connections.
@@pbkobold i used to use abs syraya with tenacious but that resin was nearly $42 for 1kg sunlu I get 2kg for roughly $34
Why do you need to scale to 90%? Seriously with the amount of are spending on resin and time but really want to do this it is probably worth buying a bigger printer to print it at 100%
Are you sure that all the fails you get are not from a temperature problem ?
Since I've been using OPR printing settings for everything I print (even a Gladiator tank) I never have any fails. Sometimes, some delamination or loss of details but always on invisible parts.
I've also been using a heating pad that I stuck on the print cover and it allows me to print below 20°C in the room and not get fails.
My first ever PLA was Sunlu, and i thought I was useless at 3D printing. I burnt a whole kilo testing and calibrating. On a whim, I tried eSun and immediately my prints stopped failing, glossing and randomly over-extruding. I wont use Sunlu products again.
I have a similar end goal of printing all the titans. I've used auto supports to no real problems now that exposure is good(lychee normal medium) but I'm using a fdm to do the skeleton as fdm is reliably more durable than resin. I started with warhound then went big with the warmaster with according to blender sits at 30in tall. Currently struggling with removing fdm supports from the center body cube and debating on using a heat gun to loosin things up
any hints?
Thank you for not sharing biggest fight protecting the creator/uploader
Do not stop
There is some stuff you can add to your resin to make it more flexible.
When I tried the Cones of Calibration, both sides were failing--not sure what to do with that result.
What is that purple liquid you are using to wash the miniatures? I am getting sick of the Isopropyl smell....
Methylated spirits although I wouldn't say its any better smelling lol
I’ve read about people blending a little bit of ABS resin into their Standard resin to alleviate the brittleness, thoughts?
Does anyone have the STL file for it ? I only found Warhound titan :c
Going to print mine?
🤯 I would probably need to get a few bottles of captain Morgans to get me through it 😂😂
I'm printing my warbringer it's around the same size and mass with 90% auto support and it has come out pretty well but i am using a Saturn2 and my longest print was 12hr
90% autosupports is pretty good ngl! Have you had any failures? What's your supporting work flow like?
I think that's the same model I've got, but... Why the 90% rescale? Why isn't it to-scale? How wide should the toes be, for example?
It's in the description of the model to scale to 90%
@@battlebrothersam this makes me think it's the same model as the one I've already found but just to make sure, is this model the one with the same cannons on both arms or have you found one with plasma annihilator?
For Exposure settings cone of calibration are definitely not perfect either. You will need to use that old XP1 exposure test too to dial it in and see if things are exposed enough. I tried printing some Necron destroyers off and the parts and supports broke like fuck and were either under or over exposed until I dialed them in more. It's annoying but has to be done haha.
I need to know the name of the files 😭 please...
I feel like FDM print is how I am going to print something like this.
before assembling the model consider re-enforcing the spine and limbs with something sturdy, like a metal rod. That resin is touted as this super amazing resin by a few youtubers, but I've found it to be super brittle and not worth my time.
Yes I think metal rods are 100% going to be needed
@@battlebrothersam It's recommended for the actual FW cast resin titans, I'd imagine printed would definitely need reinforcement.
im so lazy my printer has been bang on out the box.
Magnus recommended using Sunlu Standard, didn't he?
When I've been left with a resin whose properties I don't like, I've used up what's left by mixing it in with a known good resin at roughly a 1:3 or 1:4 ratio. It's not enough to significantly spoil the good resin's characteristics and you're not wasting half a bottle of the lesser stuff.
I've done this with Elegoo Std + ABS, ZMud + Elegoo ABS, Sunlu Std + ABS and Anycubic ABS + Sunlu ABS (That last one was pure lazyness as I was happy with the Sunlu and couldn't be bothered to run calibration on the Anycubic.)
Magnus did nothing wrong.. Hmmm so if I mixed 3:1 std to abs like I wouldn't have to recalibrate?
@@battlebrothersam I did it the other way around - 1 STD to 3 ABS with the settings I usually use for ABS
YMMV of course. I didn't notice any significant differences in appearance or failure rate, but then I support and calibrate to err on the side of reliability.
And you know what I always say about listening to eejits on the internet...
Hey, anychance I can get you to send me a message on where to get this?
My goal is to print a 10-foot model one day with FDM. Why 10 feet? If it was 11 I would need a permit to put it outside here.
😂😂😂😂 I love it
Would you ever sell 3d printed kits to build a Titan ?
Let me guess - you got a summons??? G-Dubs found you.
Mix some Tenacious in with the standard resin.
30-40 minutes for a space marine ??
bro just thinking a bit logically about the positioning and hitting auto supports works perfectly fine .
Brother what can I say, between auto supports, island detection back and forth from uvtools and the computer loading everything that's the rough time. I've never had good experience with just auto supports
@@battlebrothersam i know everyones printer is unique but ive never had issues with it . at least nothing noticable.
tbh auto supports rarely looks much different from presupports on my end
yeah, warlord titan is cool and stuff, but have you seen that full size warmaster titan stl with print examples?)))
I have indeed, who knows after this I may need another project to jump head first into
What he said V
I love great supports, but auto supports have never failed me.
I just don't trust them with normal models nevermind this big lump of resin
I’ve found Chitubox auto mediums at 40%, then add manual supports to any overhangs. 1.75 exposure on Sunlu ABS Grey on a Mars 3 - haven’t had a failed print in months!
Scared to change any settings now haha.
0:50 while this isnt hard to find...i fucking hate gate keeping
I wouldn't count this as gate keeping, if I say where the files are gw will just take them down
love the titans series i'm gone sub for sure. hope to see the warbringer nemesis titan
Love your Titan series. BTW, eco-resin is more durable, but not so brittle! Standard is a nightmare, at least for me, too much breakage =(
Plant based resin? You might be the first to recommend that to me! I haven't tried it yet
@@battlebrothersam Seriously... don't. It's garbage XD
@@battlebrothersam yeah, also it does not smell as awful as any other kind of resin I tried so far. Grab a couple of liters if you have a chance!
You already made a warhound. Your showing next vid at the end a Reiver Titan. 🙄
Mmmm titan 🤤
More biomass 😂
Do not use standard resin! My old warlord collapsed recently, the ankle joint sheared off. Use ABS resin and print them solid. Pin if you can as well.
I am about a week into printing my second warlord and I am almost done with zero failures. I am using the same files as you it seems. If you want my files drop me a message and I'll share them with you. Using Sunlu ABS resin on a saturn 2