Powerstoke 6.0 Thermocure Flush & Lime-A-Away backflush High Coolant Oil Deltas Ford F250 P012F
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- My powerstoke 6.0 oil cool got plugged up again. The Oil and Coolant temps were slowing rising. I decided to try and figure out the cause of debris on the cooing system. The last time I backflushed the oil cooler I noticed allot of rust in my catch bucket. Thermocure from evaporust had good reviews. I did a before and after of the block and its amazing. This product will clog your oil cooler so you need a way to backflush when its done. When I was done with the Thermocure I did a Lime-A-Way backflush. Its crazy the amount of junk that came out of my oil cooler. Check the links below. If you own a powerstoke 6.0 you need a back flush tool. This will save you alot of money
Backflush Tool and Amazon $73
www.amazon.com...
Thermocure Rust remover
www.amazon.com...
Rotella ELC Coolant
www.amazon.com... If you found this video helpful or would like help fund future experiments. please donate below.
Patreon
/ fintechrepairshop
Paypal
www.paypal.me/f...
Sponsors:
www.oc3dtech.com
cinderclaus.com
www.fintechcomm...
www.ocdatacabli...
www.ocdatasyste...
www.bloodlinefi...
Just did this using the lime away and fleet guard restore prior. Temps were 30+ and now they’re around 10. Super slick, thanks for the video.
you put the lime away and fleet guard restore in and ran it in the truck? or ran the fleet guard in the truck drained and then back flushed with the lime away after?
Next time you flush the system try putting a magnet to the crud that came out. I'm not sure if sand casting will be magnetized but I know the oxide will be. Not sure if this helps but it’s just a thought I wanted to put out there. Good luck with your problem!
That's a pretty clean engine bud. I'm surprised you let the coolant system get away from you.
So, how did this flush fare, long term? Thanks for sharing Dale.
I’m not sure how this wives tale got started but that stuff is not casting sand. Casting sang might as well be moon dust it’s so fine, and it’s highly unlikely it would survive the machining process anyway. The blocks are CNC machined using massive amounts of coolant, flushing through just about every nook and cranny you can imagine. What a large part of that is is broken down engine coolant. I got the explanation from more than one engine shop that specializes in Ford diesels and both scoffed at the “casting sand” idea.
I agree, it looks more like calcium or broken down coolant.
@@fintechrepairshop You should have collected it and sent it for analysis. Although to be honest, it's probably pieces of the cooler which as degraded.
If domestic water pressure is 60 psi, what is the benefit of adding air pressure?
Did you remove the thermostat at all? When you did the back flush did you open radiator drain plug or the lower radiator hose?
Wow, that crud is nasty. I always recommend Redline Water Wetter in cooling systems but it looks like you are getting galvanic corrosion. If it were me, I would install a sacrificial zinc anode and that should help. Dissimilar metals in contact will corrode each other. Cast iron and aluminum even though connected only by flowing water can do this. The zinc anode will sacrifice itself more freely and I'll bet it would fix this. You will need to periodically check and replace it, but better than eroding your engine from the inside out.
Way back when, Volvo had a huge problem with their early V6 PRV engines. There were cases of engines failing at 40-50 thousand miles because the water jackets collapsed and the pistons punched through the block. To the best of my knowledge they experienced 100% failure on those engines.
Good idea, that actually makes sense. I have a boat with allot of sacrificial zincs all around. I even have zinc anodes in the outboard water jackets. Now the question where to put it? Older cars like my old bronco are easy. I've seen zinc drain plugs and caps for older style radiators.
With modern radiators being so plastic I doubt the classic JC Whitney radiator cap style would work. Similarly the drain plug replacement units could have a problem. In either case you could overcome the issue by running a grounding strap. Check the clearances internally anywhere in the cooling system you have a NPT drain you could put one in too. Heck, the recovery/overflow tank could get a slug and run a ground wire sandwiched between the hose and you could visually check it pretty easily. Rotometals is a good source for zincs and I'm pretty sure they fab custom plugs in any configuration you could need.
the chemical flush is making the issue worse.
it looks like someone poured "stop leak" in the coolant
I believe you're supposed to backflush that after you run that treatment in there.
Did you put in a coolant filter ?
Do you think an 8-10° delta is still not good? Mine is around that, EOT slowly creeping up to new max every time i drive. Only on highway driving though. Anything less than 60mph and i have 5° deltas
So you drained the coolant, removed block plug, flushed with water, treated with thermo and drive around, flushed again and topped off with new coolant and distilled water?
I bought the back flush kit. Which hose do I need to leave loose to drain from the back flush?
Lower radiator hose. Put a piece of panty hose over it when you back flush it. Helps to see when to stop back flushing by catching the crap. You'll be amazed how much comes out.
Did u use 1 or 2 thermos cure
This is a REALLY BAD IDEA! You'll NEVER get the oil cooler cleaned with a back flush. You'll never not have rust in the system. What you need to eliminate is the EGR cooler entirely and switch to red ELC coolant.
Egg on your face eh?
is it still working
How do you add lime away to the back flush process? Getting ready to do mine tomorrow
You dump it down the hose that’s going into the port on top of the oil cooler for the backflush. Just get a funnel.
How much though? About 1/3rd of the bottle for each flush?
@@jgreg6jg at the end of the video he did 3 treatments so I would divide up the bottle of lime away or clr by 3