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Making Stainless Steel Brake Lines - Volvo Amazon Project (Ep. 46)
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2024
- With the frame primed and sitting on the bench - it's the perfect time to get one of the more frustrating and time consuming jobs done...making the brake lines.
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Thanks Craig. That was very helpful for my Datsun Roadster project car. I love the Eastwood flaring tool. I struggled with double flaring the stainless which is probably why you bubble flare. In any event I am going to copy that tubing straightening tool. Awesome in its simplicity. Love your videos and presentation.
Thanks Chris...given I've got to redo my front clip, I'll have to do this job again! The bubble flairs were used where I had metric fittings. Regular double flares are easy if you cut the tube with a saw or cutting wheel - just don't use a tube cutter as that will work harden the edge and lead to cracks.
Love seeing it coming together. I went with the nickel copper but those lines are sure pretty and worth the hassle. Good work. Keep it coming
Cracking tutorial. Man, you made a nice job of the cross car brake line. I've got a bunch of lines to make. I might give stainless a go.
Wow super clean install. These are the things that separate a quality car from the old "bucket of chicken" as we say. Makes maintenance and between race inspections much easier. Less week to week maintenance and replacement parts time and cost means more time to try new or dial in current setups.
Thanks Matt!
Stunning job. Have been binge watching all the episodes and the last six have been really educational, informative and the work quality superb. But also entertaining. Keep this going.
Thanks. I'm trying because guys like you are watching. It gives me the motivation to keep trying harder to make better content.
You mentioned Eastwood. I live 2 miles from the Eastwood factory store. Love your build.
Thanks John.
Just found your channel, really nice stuff. I'm doing a similar project myself with my 1967 123 but with a tighter budget, less skill and a hell of a lot less patient. Still though, it's a lot of fun!
Thanks - if it wasn't fun...no one would do it! Glad to hear there are more old Volvo's getting the love they deserve.
measure your wire BEFORE you start bending then once you get the shape you require and cut it off make a note of what you have cut off and subtract
so that you will know the length of the bent piece.
Either way works.
Sharpie works good for people that don’t have layout dye
True - good tip. Wide sharpies are very useful.
Foam ear plugs work great for keeping holes clear from both paint and sandblasting :)
Great tip! Thanks.
Cool, no stainless for me :) What's the best way to connect two metal brake lines together? If I don't want to replace whole long line, just the part of it that is rusty?
You can get flare joiners...but I'd suggest just replacing the rusted line with new. It's not hard to do and will be safe.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Yeah, I'm watching your videos, we definitely got a different definition of "not hard" :P
I see you did a bubble. Have you tried to do a double/inverted with stainless in the turret? will it even work on stainless to do a double?
Also if you can’t double stainless in that tool for AN fittings? Are you single flaring and skipping operation 1 and going straight to OP2
Good question. I've done many double flares in stainless. You just have to cut it with a cut off disk so that the end doesn't work harden. Then it flares fine. When I get to AN fittings, then they are single flared with a reinforcing collar. The flare is 37 degrees, so non of these operations on the turret are correct. There is another turret, though I have the proper flare tool for these fittings.
You really like to make your job harder :D Stainless brake lines :D What type of stainless steel did you use? 1.4301/AISI304 or higher? I remember that in wastewater indystry i had some problems with stainless steel which was not passivated and had contact with acids. It ended with pitting corrosion.
True - I do tend to seek out the hardest way to do things. It's 304 in an annealed state. I forgot to mention that the Ridgid bender is all made from stainless steel (rollers and die) so that there is no contamination of the bends. I hope there is no issue with these lines.
What's the upside of working with such a tough material compared to say copper brake lines? Are they more durable in the long run?
Edit: I was a bit fast, you went through this pretty clearly in the video :)
Ya - I just like the way they look and zero future issues as long as the lines are made properly. Huge effort, expended once is a theme in my builds. If it needed to make sense or be easy I'd think of some way of messing it up.
You have Romain Grosjean's smile
(Or he has yours)
I'm older!
Do you like that flairing tool?
Nope - I LOVE this flaring tool!
Where is the next video.
Working on the car right now! So new video will drop next week.
Interesting videos you have in your channel, however you would give more value to your audience if you show step by step how you do it instead of narrating what you do while speeding the video
I'm doing the best I can in a very cramped space with cameras getting in the way. I can't film the entire process using the camera I use for the normal speed segments. I would become so frustrated that I'd just quit doing these videos.
I love that you go through the special tools you use before getting into the voice over parts. I like your format. I'm not looking for a detailed how to video, so you strike a good balance of method, equipment, and production. Keep up the good work. Cheers from the Great White North.