easily..... I started watching him back in college over 8 years ago. He is a Godsend to this world. He has also single handedly defeated the Volvo myth, that "you can't work on these at home". Thanks to these videos, my Volvo did not end up in a scrap yard.. and is still running great at 270k! Now off to do my inner outer tie rod ends, wheel bearings left and right cv axle, and IPD sway bars... hope there is still enough sun to this day.
Thank you so much Robert! I got to a garage and they told me it would cost 1500$+tx for my two axles. I just figured out i'd order the pieces myself and change them. It costed me 270$ instead.
Robert I just wanted to say THANK YOU for taking the time to film and share this video, I am really grateful for such a straightforward video that made my experience with changing my cv halfshafts on my volvo much easier than expected. The only problem I ran into was getting the driver side shaft out of the differential so I went to home depot and bought a similar pry bar that you suggested and after some serious effort found success. Thanks again Robert, I really appreciate it
Glad it helped. Some people also hammer a pry bar or fork at the joint and get it to pop out. Hope other repairs are successful as well. Have you checked the heater core for leaks? Coolant leak from heater core connection seal, Volvo - Auto Information Series
Robert DIY Thats funny you mentioned that, I've had radiator fluid on my floorboards for about 3 months, thats my project for next weekend. I will be very happy if you have a video for that too!!!
Robert: Absolutely superb, comprehensive video. Thank you. I followed your procedure to replace the cv axle on my '97 850 T-5. A few notes - I have the one-piece control arm so I separated it from the A-frame and dropped it. Removing the ball-joint side is almost impossible. And, yes, I did load the control arm as you described before torqueing it back in. Volvo had a problem with the early 850's (1993 and maybe 1994) and they recommended applying "metal adhesive" to the splines that engage in the hub. I did some research and found that this is not really necessary for the later models; however, I did apply anti-seize to the splines. I found that I had to put the trans into neutral and rotate the axle back and forth a bit before it popped out from the transmission. I think that wiggling it helps to get that circlip into a better position so that it releases more easily. Also, having the trans in neutral and rotating back and forth helped with re-inserting the new axle. Thanks, again. Great job.
I'm back again.Bought a 96 850 for $400, needless to say it needs a lot of work. You have saved me a LOT of time on this one, not having to take the brakes or struts loose. Keep up the good videos!
Ive been watching you since i acquired an 97 850 t5 from a neighbor for 400 dollars. I had to replace the hood and fenders and radiator support cause it was hit on the front passenger side. But didnt deploy the airbags. But i enjoy your delivery. You sure are informative. Thanks . i love the volvo. Very nice car.
Rob have a 96 850, gave up a 06 s40 for it, love the 850, must say love ur video's watch them like I am watching tv, ur a great help to many of us, thanjs
Robert, Great videos you post on the Volvo 850! I've had my white 850 estate for a few years now and it keeps running at low cost thanks to your clear video instructions.
Thanks Robert, replaced the drivers side bearing (Timken) and CV Axle on my 96 850. Took about 3 hours. Pried the old CV Axle off with a long 24 inch Estwing Carpenters nail puller purchased at HD. Love your videos, God Bless You.
Before replacing an axle you should look at the area to see if the control arm is in good shape. The control arm, sway bar end links and brake lines are all in the area and would be easy to access while the tire is off. The seal may leak about 1 of 8 times so a new seal would be a great idea.
Yes that does happen sometimes. The seals can be hard to get out but just work it out. Sorry for the trouble, the next time it will be easy. Check the transmission fluid level.
Swapping the axles on my 98 was a colossal undertaking. Passenger side spline was seized up in the hub. We had to use this old Alpha Romeo hub press tool to push it out and that was even with a big breaker bar on THAT. It looked like someone put thread locker or something in there. I ended up scraping it all out of the hub splines with a big dental pick like tool and then used anti seize on the new axle splines. That side took about 3 hours. We tried an impact hammer and a sledge hammer before trying the hub press tool. We only resorted to that last because we had to use a drill press to make a new set of holes to match the Volvo lug pattern. The driver's side though popped out with a few hard whacks with a small sledge hammer and a railroad spike resting in that center digit.
Sorry to hear that. As mentioned in the video it is best to pull the control arm frame bolts if you don't have the ball joint that comes off like mine. Did you have that carpenters crow/pry bar?
I did this job recently on my S70 -97 and I had some problems removing the cv axle out of the gear box. The carpenters crowbar didn't work for me as mine was too thick to fit into that small gap between the back of the inner cv joint and the gearbox. I succeded by softly hammering a wedge (a wood chisel) into the gap from below under the car.. This way the cv axle came loose easily.
I had CV boot done at a local shop. It was about 7-8 months ago. 2 or 3 months ago, the car started pulling right under acceleration. I saw that the bushings have cracks in them. I think the shop didn't load control arm before torquing it.
@@RobertDIY I'm having trouble torquing CV axle nut to 88 ft lbs, 60 degrees. I'm torquing with a 4 foot cheater. Using 2 hands with firm grip is not enough to get past ~40 degrees. I could put all my weight on it, but I'm afraid of stripping or over-torquing the nut. Any ideas?
@@RobertDIY I tried barely snugging the nut, and still not getting 60 degrees. Maybe the nut is bad? It took me 30 minutes of back and forth before I got it off all the way.
Love all your videos. Right to the point with no extra steps. I did want to add that my 1999 V70 had a bolt instead of a nut for the axle. I believe the torque for the 13mm axle bolt is 33ft lbs and 45°. Feel free to correct me if it's wrong.
Thank you so much this video helped a lot me and my husband couldn’t get the axle out and thanks to your video we figured it out and it popped out thanks so much and keep on making the videos for the Volvo
In case anyone else has issues getting the axle out of trans like i did...make sure your park brake is on and block the wheels then put the trans shifter into neutral and pry then turn the axle, then pry again. until it pops loose. The snap ring on these models has a squared shoulder that does not like to pop out of the keeper groove in the transmission and the progressive torque will help it 'walk' out..
I hit it....alot....with a BIG hammer...and it would not come out until i worked it loose by prying and then turning the axle a little bit, then repeating this till it simply and easily pops loose.
Hi Robert can you post a video of changing diff oil on a 1997 volvo s90 sedan IRS and tell me what type of differential it has. The sticker says 1055 3.73 ratio. The book says it takes 80w90. Thanks
Robert DIY yeah I know what you mean I have a new set pig machines pegasus wheels in my wagon and since my wife drove the car for a week I noticed some minor curb rash on them lol no matter how hard I tried to keep them fresh the curb rash sneaked in lol
It's a '95. I also have a '96 that I took the wheels off of for this trip I'm on. Will install my Titans when I get back home and purchase new tires for it.
Unsure if you have a video regarding the passenger side, but is it normal on my 98 v70xc for atf to pour out when removing the passenger side axle? I know that wasn't the case when I replaced the ones on my s60.
If the transmission is over serviced it's very common. Usually if I jack up that side of the car and leave the other side on the ground I never have that issue.
Can't get the old axle iut, 2 hours of prying with bar and nothing is coming out, CV axle came apart and now I'm just trying to get the drum and spline out..help!
Robert DIY , thank God they don't have tow trucks and mechanics here on this island or I would have never learned these skills from your videos...I stuck with it in the cold rain in the dark and it finally popped out with the prybar and a hard pop with a sledge hammer...flew out like a missle! Put on a rebuilt ($30) USA industries axle which had original Volvo markings, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it lasts a little while. Changed out the control arm.as well. All.seems fine after test drive home last night. Thank you for your help and videos!
HI Robert, in the Haynes Manual, it say's to use metal adhesive on the splines. I didn't see you put anything on the splines on the trans or hub side. I read on forums that many people struggle trying to get the axle out of the trans, so putting adhesive would seem to make it more difficult to remove in the future. Have you done any CV videos for the passenger side? I appreciate all your help over the years. I have a 96 Volvo 850T5 from NJ. You worked on my car a couple of years ago. Need to change passenger side CV axle.
Why do Volvo have the pin on the rotor screw locating into an aperture on the rim? I haven't seen that on other cars. What would happen if it wasn't fitted?
why the need for a pin that sticks out into the wheel rim, most cars have just a plain countersunk screw to retain the rotor. The wheel can only be fitted in one position because of the protruding pin. What purpose does it serve? Why would it matter if the wheel was rotated 90° or 180° etc.
Another of life's little mysteries. I don't see how it would make a difference if the pin were cut off apart from making it a little easier not having to line up the pin each time a wheel is installed 😀 Keep up the good work. Any intentions of doing a steering rack install yet?
This is a very good video, thank you for taking the time! I don't actually have a Volvo (or even car, period right now) but I was looking on Craigslist and saw one at a good price with some bad CV joints. This was very enlightening and I was very surprised that there was even a video on it! I'm just starting out on wrenching, and I'm going to be working on my parent's cars (an Izuzu Rodeo and Suzuki Forenza) when they need it. I've loved cars since I was a kid but I only recently came to like mechanic work. What would you recommend I buy to get started? Jacks, wrenches, gloves, that kind of thing? I look forward to your reply and I'm gonna go ahead and subscribe, because the video is just too good :)
I changed my driver side axe without any problem thanks to your video, it was definitly dead on the gearbox side instead of the wheel end and when testing it I still get the loud metalic clacking sound that gets faster with speed, climbing and going downhill specially, not only turning but also on strait driving. I though the ABS sensor was touching the axe thooths but checked on that and there is enough gap beetwen them. The wheel bearing seems to be ok and there is not noise on it. Any idea what should I look for? Thanks from Chile.
Robert, I replaced the driver side no problem put the car down drove around all was good. Replaced passenger side and now have a loud whistling noise every time I turn left ???????
The cv axle on my volvo was especially hard and the c clip was holding it way to hard tried using what you suggested and as it may work for others people you may want to rent or buy a cv axle puller with a slide hammer came out in less than 10 mins after all the time trying diffrent methods.
Not completely accurate for the 98 S70, but good information nonetheless. Some notes for the S70: 1. Plan on taking both control arm bolts out and disconnecting the tie rod end. The control arm attach at hub is not easy or convenient. 2. The axle nut original is probably a 36mm, but most replacement axles come with a 32mm. 3. A pretty sharp bump is required to pop that axle out. I had the same pry bar Robert shows, and needed to hit the long end with a rubber mallet to pop it out. 4. Even after c-clamp releases, the axle may not slide easily out due to gunk and who knows what. You may need to keep prying until it comes all the way out. 5. Hefting the hub assembly up to reconnect the control arm is about 100 times easier with two people, one to hold the hub steady and the other to life the control arms and get a bolt through. One person can do it, but it's a snap with two.
On my '98 V70 (FWD), I have the one-piece lower control arm. I removed the bolts attaching the control arm to the frame. Should I remove the control arm from the wheel assembly as well? I can't get the axle loose from the hub with just having those two bolts out. One of the brackets that the bolts go through is holding on to the control arm and I can't get the control arm end to pop out of that bracket. I have also unbolted the tie rod end and sway bar end link as I planned to replace those anyway. Any advice or tips for getting the axle loose from the hub?
I usually tap it through a little before I take any other parts loose. I loosen the main bolt, thread it to the end of the axle, then tap it in with a hammer or something. I do NOT take the control arm ball joint out. You can pry the control arm from the sub frame.
Robert DIY Thanks. I got the control arm loose from the frame. Still no luck getting the axle loose. I must have tried for an hour tapping on that thing, making sure I could still screw the axle nut off and on periodically. I finally started tapping on the socket (since the axle nut is flanged, the socket makes contact with the flange of the nut and not the front surface). I hit the axle nut socket so hard I dented it. I must have hammered on it that way another couple of hours, and it just won't budge. (the threads are still OK). Any ideas for how to proceed?
Do you mean that IF I apply heat I will ruin the bearing, or that I am probably going to ruin the bearing regardless? I will spray with PB Blaster and let it sit overnight. In fact it will probably sit for about 2 days before I get another chance to try again.
Robert DIY I have a crack in my boot on my front right axel. Every now and then I hear a clicking sound, but it doesn't appear to be too bad. I have had this problem before so I know what it sounds like when the problem is pretty severe. Could I just buy a $26 boot kit and have it repaired or should I have the whole axel replaced for $250+?
Egghead820 If you hear clicking the axle joint is warn and should be replaced. I find good axles in the salvage yard all the time so you can get a good $550 unit off of a junked car (assuming Volvo) and be good to go.
Robert DIY Any experience with the aftermarket axels (AUP brand) from IPD? Prices are good at $80 and $120 (for the left and right respectively), I'm just wondering how they'll hold up compared to the OEM.
Hi Robert. I am not able to get my Passengers side CV axle to seat all the way into the Transmission. Its an aftermarket Cv axle from O'reillys and not a factory Volvo part. It sticks out about 3/8 of a inch from being flush. Is this cv axle the correct length ?
Hey Robert, Quick question. I have done all the steps but am having trouble removing the axel from the transmission. I’ve tried the same way you did but it hasn’t gotten loose. Do I keep working at it?
I got the passenger side axle done last weekend. I am now looking at rplacing the boots and rebuilding the driver's side axle ('98 V70). I got the axle out of the hub no problem. The axle doesn't want to pop out of the transmission though. Any tips for getting that end loose?
Robert DIY I just tried that, it's being pretty stubborn. Is there any danger to shifting into neutral and rotating the axle some, like maybe a quarter or half turn? Is it possible that could help?
Robert DIY Thanks, it popped out this morning. When I took the outer joint apart and cleaned it up, I noticed a couple of the steel balls had been gouged, ground down a little bit (one had a small "c"-shaped spot carved out of it, and the other just had a small dent). Should I try to replace those 2 steel balls, just reuse the ones I have, or replace the axle itself?
I'm in trouble Robert ! :( my s70 volvo when I backed up the went to turn left then right the steering like locked? but not from the steering wheel ! I couldn't turn to the right ! so I backed it up left and jacked the car up and checked the steering wheel it didn't seem to be yhe problem because I co u ld turn the ignition on and also it was turned Way to the left as far as it can go but seemed even further ! so I jacked car up and I noticed the control arm was rubbing touching the tire ! like the wheel turned Way too far left and the cv joint outer joint was turned like it slipped out of socket causing the control arm to touch the tire ! I took the control arm off ! then wiggled the keys in the steering column and tried to turn the sheet eventually it freed up the steering so I put everything back together ! knowing that I still was skeptical not thinking I found gh er problem but drove it around the block being very carfull! seemed ok but I knew better ! the next day I went to back the car up then forward in t he same way and the steering or sheets locked again in place? and the outer cv joint looks like it'd turned way too far ! as 8f it's been pulled out of socket but when driving I f onto hear snytjkng! could ghost be bad cv joint or I'd it my rack and pinion?
It looks pretty simple, I need to replace my axle on both sides, and like you said the sound from my axle would happen occasionally but now its all the time. I might tackle this job on my own, I do have to replace my ball joint and control arm. Would you suggest replacing the axle's first? Money is just kinda tight
Robert, I'm about to do this same job to my 96 850t. It started grumbling the moment I changed the upper strut mounts. I think we pulled the hub too far to the side while swapping. I was thinking I would remove the strut rather than the control arm, for one thing, to make sure I put it together correctly last time, but also to leave the control arm bushings the way they are. You mentioned they need to be pre-loaded. Any reason NOT to do it this way?
+Phil Pacelli when you bolt the strut to knuckle boots back on, let the knuckle rest out away from the car then tightened the bolts. Better for alignment.
Hi Robert, I want to replace both front CV axle assemblies to my XC90 2.5T 2007 AWD. My concern is that this car was sold here in El Salvador Central America (where I live). This mean that is not USA version and I don't want to buy the wrong parts. Any advice please?
Hey rob i live in johnstown pa i followed your tips the axel never came out its stuck in there pretty good in turn though trying this just made a hole in my transmission
Yeah i used the carpenters crow bar and it put a hole in my transmission when i hit the other end of the crow bar it pushed a hole right through the transmission
Thank you got it fixed brought it to a shop 350 dollars later its fixed turns out the guy I bought it from drove it on a axel so bad the bearings heated and sealed to the axel it self they had to weld a plate on it and use a slide hammer to pull it out
Hi Robert. Recently went to replace my drivers side axle in a rhd car. All good until we took out the original axle to see it had a counterweight on it, whilst the non-oem replacement does not. Not sure what to do here. Unfortunately as I’m based in australia we have very limited access to oem parts without paying hundreds in shipping. Thoughts? Thanks
do you know how similar this is to a 2000 Volvo S80? I know the strut replacements are virtually identical to the 850 but wasn't sure if you know how similar the axles are.
Robert, your closing remark is: If the axle pops out... your car will just stop. Driving at only about 20 mph, with a BANG, I believe this is exactly what happened. Alarming. At 140,000 and being the original owner, I'm planning to put in new CV Axle and ball joint. The Question is: how frequently does the CV axle just "pop out?" Seems like a highly dangerous situation. I was very glad I was driving on my quite road at a slow speed and not my wife who normally drives this V70 (2002) to work every day. Your thoughts? Thx, Doug Day, Maine (and I'm not talking about After my work. I'm talking about Out of the Blue after 140,000 miles without any obvious alarm weakness prior.
do you have a video in replacing just the outer boot? noticed a tear beginning on relatively new axles, previous owner replaced them a few years back ( maybe aftermarket?)... I've always just replaced the axel, never even tried getting a boot on. those Volvo axels cost big $, I've used the Chinese eBay axels on eBay and they seem to last a few years. but maybe a $10 boot will prevent spending even more ca$h on my latest project
hi Robert, I have a 95 volvo 850 t5. I was in the act of replacing the front wheel bearing and got to the stage of removing the star bolts in the rear of the bearing housing and used the wrong socket to remove the bolts (12 point hex) and realized I needed some kind of reverse female torks bit and marred the bolts. am I screwed? or is there a way to get those off after the damage? thanks Don. (are you still in your western USA tour? I would be stoked if you were near me)
Hello Robert. As always great work with this video. Question though... what happened If after the new passenger axle is installed that the car stumbles with a rumble into second or 3rd? Auto trans.
Robert, how can I tell if I can get away with rebuilding my CV axles and replacing the boots, vs. just replacing the axles? You mentioned in your informational video that a clicking sound means they need to be replaced. My axles don't click (from what I can tell), but the boots on both axles are torn and there is grease everywhere. I think they have been torn a good long while now. I can get remanufactured Volvo axles from FCP for $65 each (plus core charge), but I'd rather rebuild the ones I have if they are in good enough condition.
+r martin No, the passenger side has a currier bearing that has 2 bolts holding it on to the back of the engine. Easy process and much easier to pull out.
Robert, a friend of mine is saying that what you are calling the transmission is in fact the differential and that the fluid that would emanate would be differential fluid, i.e., 90 weight gear oil. I am losing a lot of ATF so maybe the leak source is not here. What do you think? Would I be losing ATF from this joint or would it be 90 weight gear oil?
Thank you for this video, my left cv axel went out yesterday, would you recommend replacing both sides together, or just the side that is out.? Blessings to you and your family
Robert, as far as I'm concerned you are the best thing on RUclips! Thanks again for helping me keep my old 850 alive and well.
Cre8tvMG Thanks for the kind words and for watching. Keep that 850 alive. How many miles?
When I got my black wagon it had a bad tranny. Would try to go forward when in reverse.
easily..... I started watching him back in college over 8 years ago. He is a Godsend to this world. He has also single handedly defeated the Volvo myth, that "you can't work on these at home". Thanks to these videos, my Volvo did not end up in a scrap yard.. and is still running great at 270k!
Now off to do my inner outer tie rod ends, wheel bearings left and right cv axle, and IPD sway bars... hope there is still enough sun to this day.
Replaced both axles today. Everything actually went smooth with no real problems. Maybe except for the 2 spilled beers. Thanks for the video.
Glad to read. Thanks for watching.
Robert is now the go to guy for jobs on my 1998 Volvo S70 and 2001 C70 convertible. Excellent videos.
thanks for watching.
Thank you so much Robert! I got to a garage and they told me it would cost 1500$+tx for my two axles. I just figured out i'd order the pieces myself and change them. It costed me 270$ instead.
No problem !
Awesome! You are welcome.
Robert I just wanted to say THANK YOU for taking the time to film and share this video, I am really grateful for such a straightforward video that made my experience with changing my cv halfshafts on my volvo much easier than expected. The only problem I ran into was getting the driver side shaft out of the differential so I went to home depot and bought a similar pry bar that you suggested and after some serious effort found success. Thanks again Robert, I really appreciate it
Glad it helped. Some people also hammer a pry bar or fork at the joint and get it to pop out.
Hope other repairs are successful as well. Have you checked the heater core for leaks?
Coolant leak from heater core connection seal, Volvo - Auto Information Series
Robert DIY Thats funny you mentioned that, I've had radiator fluid on my floorboards for about 3 months, thats my project for next weekend. I will be very happy if you have a video for that too!!!
Been following your advice for years, and once again, you're a Godsend! Thanks for keeping my V70 on the road Robert!
You are welcome.
Robert: Absolutely superb, comprehensive video. Thank you. I followed your procedure to replace the cv axle on my '97 850 T-5. A few notes - I have the one-piece control arm so I separated it from the A-frame and dropped it. Removing the ball-joint side is almost impossible. And, yes, I did load the control arm as you described before torqueing it back in. Volvo had a problem with the early 850's (1993 and maybe 1994) and they recommended applying "metal adhesive" to the splines that engage in the hub. I did some research and found that this is not really necessary for the later models; however, I did apply anti-seize to the splines. I found that I had to put the trans into neutral and rotate the axle back and forth a bit before it popped out from the transmission. I think that wiggling it helps to get that circlip into a better position so that it releases more easily. Also, having the trans in neutral and rotating back and forth helped with re-inserting the new axle. Thanks, again. Great job.
Thanks for sharing.
I'm back again.Bought a 96 850 for $400, needless to say it needs a lot of work. You have saved me a LOT of time on this one, not having to take the brakes or struts loose. Keep up the good videos!
Glad to hear, that may be the best time yet. Thanks for watching.
Ive been watching you since i acquired an 97 850 t5 from a neighbor for 400 dollars. I had to replace the hood and fenders and radiator support cause it was hit on the front passenger side. But didnt deploy the airbags. But i enjoy your delivery. You sure are informative. Thanks . i love the volvo. Very nice car.
Thank you for watching
You are spot on fella. The scissor jack use made me worried, but when you mention loading the control are bushings you one me over. Excellent video
BigniceJohn Nice, thanks for watching.
Rob have a 96 850, gave up a 06 s40 for it, love the 850, must say love ur video's watch them like I am watching tv, ur a great help to many of us, thanjs
You are welcome.
Thanks to you I finished the job in about 30 minutes flat! Your video is a great resource, keep up the great work!
Robert, Thanks again for some great guidance; your axle demonstration gave me the confidence to attempt the axle myself and it went great.
Awesome! Thanks for watching.
Did both sides today. Another 850 is roadworthy because of you.
Woot woot!
this was the first job I ever did on a Volvo by myself. RS makes it look easy. Had to get my front end aligned on my '95 850 after this job.
Robert, Great videos you post on the Volvo 850!
I've had my white 850 estate for a few years now and it keeps running at low cost thanks to your clear video instructions.
Floris Good deal. Thank you for watching.
Thank You Robert you helped me a lot replacing the CV axle on my 2004 V70.
+Tony Kinsey nice. Thanks for watching.
Thanks Robert, replaced the drivers side bearing (Timken) and CV Axle on my 96 850. Took about 3 hours. Pried the old CV Axle off with a long 24 inch Estwing Carpenters nail puller purchased at HD. Love your videos, God Bless You.
Robert you are awesome. Thanks so much for this. I've watched dozens of your videos and saved tons of money on my 2000 C70!
Good deal. Thanks for watching.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
Before replacing an axle you should look at the area to see if the control arm is in good shape. The control arm, sway bar end links and brake lines are all in the area and would be easy to access while the tire is off. The seal may leak about 1 of 8 times so a new seal would be a great idea.
Yes that does happen sometimes. The seals can be hard to get out but just work it out. Sorry for the trouble, the next time it will be easy.
Check the transmission fluid level.
I enjoy your videos, they help me to fix my Volvo.
Ava Shalom Good deal. Thanks for watching.
Smart guy. Well spoken, well edited video.
+Shawn L thanks for watching.
Swapping the axles on my 98 was a colossal undertaking. Passenger side spline was seized up in the hub. We had to use this old Alpha Romeo hub press tool to push it out and that was even with a big breaker bar on THAT. It looked like someone put thread locker or something in there.
I ended up scraping it all out of the hub splines with a big dental pick like tool and then used anti seize on the new axle splines. That side took about 3 hours. We tried an impact hammer and a sledge hammer before trying the hub press tool. We only resorted to that last because we had to use a drill press to make a new set of holes to match the Volvo lug pattern.
The driver's side though popped out with a few hard whacks with a small sledge hammer and a railroad spike resting in that center digit.
FastRedPonyCar Ouch! You must be up north.
Robert DIY Alabama actually. Car lived it's entire life before I bought it down in FL...
Hmmm, in a coastal environment? Well, if they put some tread lock instead of antisieze on the splines it wouldn't matter. Some people's kids.
Took me all weekend! Tough spots were getting the ball joint out and the axle. Also had to take the arm off at the frame.
This looks incredibly simple! Going to be attempting this soon!!
The hardest part is getting the left axle to pop out of the transmission.
just used this for reference on a friend's car in Idaho. thanks Robert!
+David Bello nice.
i just did mine, much easier to take the 2 bolts off the strut , move the hub to the side and pop the shaft out
ok.
This helped me out big time with my S70. Thank you, Robert!!!!
You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
Tnx for making easy understandable videos . I'll go right out and fix my driverside front axel now. Keep up the good works and thanks again. Cheers 😃😎
You are welcome.
This is truly an excellent video! I really appreciate your efforts!
Thanks for watching.
I am talking about point 6:04 on the tape where you have just broken the CV joint loose from the transmission [or is it the differential]?
What did my video say?
Sorry to hear that. As mentioned in the video it is best to pull the control arm frame bolts if you don't have the ball joint that comes off like mine. Did you have that carpenters crow/pry bar?
so glad i have soon have access to a 4 poster ramp and 2 poster, air lines as well! Im hoping both control arms in an hour or less.
Thanks for watching.
I did this job recently on my S70 -97 and I had some problems removing the cv axle out of the gear box. The carpenters crowbar didn't work for me as mine was too thick to fit into that small gap between the back of the inner cv joint and the gearbox. I succeded by softly hammering a wedge (a wood chisel) into the gap from below under the car.. This way the cv axle came loose easily.
That is the best method. Thank you for watching and sharing.
LOL, What are you referring to? Had to get that axle replaced so I could hit the road.
How did it go for you?
Very helpful! Next project is brakes and BOTH CV axles on a V70. Thanks for the clear explanation.
You are welcome.
I had CV boot done at a local shop. It was about 7-8 months ago. 2 or 3 months ago, the car started pulling right under acceleration. I saw that the bushings have cracks in them. I think the shop didn't load control arm before torquing it.
Probably right.
@@RobertDIY I'm having trouble torquing CV axle nut to 88 ft lbs, 60 degrees. I'm torquing with a 4 foot cheater. Using 2 hands with firm grip is not enough to get past ~40 degrees. I could put all my weight on it, but I'm afraid of stripping or over-torquing the nut. Any ideas?
Double check the 88 ft lbs.
@@RobertDIY I tried barely snugging the nut, and still not getting 60 degrees. Maybe the nut is bad? It took me 30 minutes of back and forth before I got it off all the way.
Another great diy 850 video. Thanks Robert.
Love all your videos. Right to the point with no extra steps. I did want to add that my 1999 V70 had a bolt instead of a nut for the axle. I believe the torque for the 13mm axle bolt is 33ft lbs and 45°. Feel free to correct me if it's wrong.
Thanks for sharing
hey young man, I got help from two of your good volvo videos., thanx a lot
Thanks for the videos. I have seen a few now and they are very helpful. Thanks.
Thank you so much this video helped a lot me and my husband couldn’t get the axle out and thanks to your video we figured it out and it popped out thanks so much and keep on making the videos for the Volvo
Thanks for watching
In case anyone else has issues getting the axle out of trans like i did...make sure your park brake is on and block the wheels then put the trans shifter into neutral and pry then turn the axle, then pry again. until it pops loose. The snap ring on these models has a squared shoulder that does not like to pop out of the keeper groove in the transmission and the progressive torque will help it 'walk' out..
What tool were you using to try to pry it out?
i have the same carpenters bar you have.
So you got it out? How long did it take? I have had to hit the bar a couple of times. One time I had to hit it with a small sledge hammer.
I hit it....alot....with a BIG hammer...and it would not come out until i worked it loose by prying and then turning the axle a little bit, then repeating this till it simply and easily pops loose.
Wow, must have been a certain point where it would release. How long did it take?
Where did you find a chart of the various required torques?
Hmmm, you can find torque values in lots of repair manuals.
Did you replace the wrong one? Maybe both were bad? Were the boots good on the one you replaced?
Thank Robert!!
You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for all your hard work
Hi Robert can you post a video of changing diff oil on a 1997 volvo s90 sedan IRS and tell me what type of differential it has. The sticker says 1055 3.73 ratio. The book says it takes 80w90. Thanks
+Daniel McDaniels I'll put it on the list.
Damn those R wheels look brand spanking new and sexy! I have a full set in my garage that I was going to sell but I might get them refinished.
rct5r LOL, they don't look like that now. Curb rash!
Robert DIY yeah I know what you mean I have a new set pig machines pegasus wheels in my wagon and since my wife drove the car for a week I noticed some minor curb rash on them lol no matter how hard I tried to keep them fresh the curb rash sneaked in lol
It's a '95. I also have a '96 that I took the wheels off of for this trip I'm on. Will install my Titans when I get back home and purchase new tires for it.
Volvo saver 🙏🏼
Thanks for watching.
I replaced the drivers side cv axle on my 99 v70 2.4 and now its leaking transmission fluid everywhere where do you think I might have gone wrong?
Damaged the input axle seal. Axle could also be defective.
When I replace the axle, is there anything else I should replace while I'm in there? Seals, etc?
Unsure if you have a video regarding the passenger side, but is it normal on my 98 v70xc for atf to pour out when removing the passenger side axle? I know that wasn't the case when I replaced the ones on my s60.
If the transmission is over serviced it's very common. Usually if I jack up that side of the car and leave the other side on the ground I never have that issue.
Can't get the old axle iut, 2 hours of prying with bar and nothing is coming out, CV axle came apart and now I'm just trying to get the drum and spline out..help!
Did you use the tool I used?
When all else fails, call a tow truck and take it to a mechanic.
Robert DIY , thank God they don't have tow trucks and mechanics here on this island or I would have never learned these skills from your videos...I stuck with it in the cold rain in the dark and it finally popped out with the prybar and a hard pop with a sledge hammer...flew out like a missle! Put on a rebuilt ($30) USA industries axle which had original Volvo markings, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it lasts a little while. Changed out the control arm.as well. All.seems fine after test drive home last night. Thank you for your help and videos!
You are welcome. Glad the transmission didn't crack.
HI Robert, in the Haynes Manual, it say's to use metal adhesive on the splines. I didn't see you put anything on the splines on the trans or hub side. I read on forums that many people struggle trying to get the axle out of the trans, so putting adhesive would seem to make it more difficult to remove in the future. Have you done any CV videos for the passenger side? I appreciate all your help over the years. I have a 96 Volvo 850T5 from NJ. You worked on my car a couple of years ago. Need to change passenger side CV axle.
Nope
I want to build a hotrod 850 with two 5 cylinders. One in front and one in the rear. What do you think?
🤢
Have you ever removed the auto trans side cover on 850 or c70? Any idea what needs to be removed, lowered or jacked, if at all?
Why do Volvo have the pin on the rotor screw locating into an aperture on the rim?
I haven't seen that on other cars.
What would happen if it wasn't fitted?
+Twig help hold and keep the rotor centered. Some don't have the screw/pin. Then the rotor is loose until you install the wheel.
why the need for a pin that sticks out into the wheel rim, most cars have just a plain countersunk screw to retain the rotor. The wheel can only be fitted in one position because of the protruding pin.
What purpose does it serve?
Why would it matter if the wheel was rotated 90° or 180° etc.
I have no idea.
Another of life's little mysteries.
I don't see how it would make a difference if the pin were cut off apart from making it a little easier not having to line up the pin each time a wheel is installed 😀
Keep up the good work.
Any intentions of doing a steering rack install yet?
Twig I'm replacing mine on the 8th.
This is a very good video, thank you for taking the time! I don't actually have a Volvo (or even car, period right now) but I was looking on Craigslist and saw one at a good price with some bad CV joints. This was very enlightening and I was very surprised that there was even a video on it! I'm just starting out on wrenching, and I'm going to be working on my parent's cars (an Izuzu Rodeo and Suzuki Forenza) when they need it. I've loved cars since I was a kid but I only recently came to like mechanic work. What would you recommend I buy to get started? Jacks, wrenches, gloves, that kind of thing? I look forward to your reply and I'm gonna go ahead and subscribe, because the video is just too good :)
+Video James if you want to cut your teeth on a lot of wrenching, one of these Volvo's. You can watch the pre-purchase video and go from there.
+Robert DIY ruclips.net/video/gt9w-ZSxs9I/видео.html
I changed my driver side axe without any problem thanks to your video, it was definitly dead on the gearbox side instead of the wheel end and when testing it I still get the loud metalic clacking sound that gets faster with speed, climbing and going downhill specially, not only turning but also on strait driving. I though the ABS sensor was touching the axe thooths but checked on that and there is enough gap beetwen them. The wheel bearing seems to be ok and there is not noise on it.
Any idea what should I look for?
Thanks from Chile.
Robert, I replaced the driver side no problem put the car down drove around all was good. Replaced passenger side and now have a loud whistling noise every time I turn left ???????
May be a bad axle.
You are welcome.
You don't have to pull the ball joint. Just turn steering wheel far left to release with brake assembly in tact.
Thanks for sharing
The cv axle on my volvo was especially hard and the c clip was holding it way to hard tried using what you suggested and as it may work for others people you may want to rent or buy a cv axle puller with a slide hammer came out in less than 10 mins after all the time trying diffrent methods.
thanks for sharing.
Not completely accurate for the 98 S70, but good information nonetheless. Some notes for the S70:
1. Plan on taking both control arm bolts out and disconnecting the tie rod end. The control arm attach at hub is not easy or convenient.
2. The axle nut original is probably a 36mm, but most replacement axles come with a 32mm.
3. A pretty sharp bump is required to pop that axle out. I had the same pry bar Robert shows, and needed to hit the long end with a rubber mallet to pop it out.
4. Even after c-clamp releases, the axle may not slide easily out due to gunk and who knows what. You may need to keep prying until it comes all the way out.
5. Hefting the hub assembly up to reconnect the control arm is about 100 times easier with two people, one to hold the hub steady and the other to life the control arms and get a bolt through. One person can do it, but it's a snap with two.
Thanks for watching.
On my '98 V70 (FWD), I have the one-piece lower control arm. I removed the bolts attaching the control arm to the frame. Should I remove the control arm from the wheel assembly as well? I can't get the axle loose from the hub with just having those two bolts out. One of the brackets that the bolts go through is holding on to the control arm and I can't get the control arm end to pop out of that bracket.
I have also unbolted the tie rod end and sway bar end link as I planned to replace those anyway.
Any advice or tips for getting the axle loose from the hub?
I usually tap it through a little before I take any other parts loose. I loosen the main bolt, thread it to the end of the axle, then tap it in with a hammer or something. I do NOT take the control arm ball joint out. You can pry the control arm from the sub frame.
Robert DIY Thanks. I got the control arm loose from the frame. Still no luck getting the axle loose. I must have tried for an hour tapping on that thing, making sure I could still screw the axle nut off and on periodically. I finally started tapping on the socket (since the axle nut is flanged, the socket makes contact with the flange of the nut and not the front surface). I hit the axle nut socket so hard I dented it. I must have hammered on it that way another couple of hours, and it just won't budge. (the threads are still OK). Any ideas for how to proceed?
Heat. Probably going to ruin that bearing. :(
Maybe spray it down with some PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench and let it sit overnight.
Do you mean that IF I apply heat I will ruin the bearing, or that I am probably going to ruin the bearing regardless?
I will spray with PB Blaster and let it sit overnight. In fact it will probably sit for about 2 days before I get another chance to try again.
My CV axle doesn't click in and out like yours does, does that mean it's not in far enough?
You'll know if the car doesn't move.
Robert DIY I have a crack in my boot on my front right axel. Every now and then I hear a clicking sound, but it doesn't appear to be too bad. I have had this problem before so I know what it sounds like when the problem is pretty severe. Could I just buy a $26 boot kit and have it repaired or should I have the whole axel replaced for $250+?
Egghead820 If you hear clicking the axle joint is warn and should be replaced. I find good axles in the salvage yard all the time so you can get a good $550 unit off of a junked car (assuming Volvo) and be good to go.
Robert DIY Any experience with the aftermarket axels (AUP brand) from IPD? Prices are good at $80 and $120 (for the left and right respectively), I'm just wondering how they'll hold up compared to the OEM.
They don't. However, I don't have any experience with them.
Is this how you do cv axles on a 97 Volvo 960 as well? I believe mine is rear wheel drive
Nope.
Hi Robert. I am not able to get my Passengers side CV axle to seat all the way into the Transmission. Its an aftermarket Cv axle from O'reillys and not a factory Volvo part. It sticks out about 3/8 of a inch from being flush. Is this cv axle the correct length ?
Oh ... Its a Volvo V70 1998 AWD Turbo
Probably not proper. Try one from NAPA.
Hey Robert, Quick question. I have done all the steps but am having trouble removing the axel from the transmission. I’ve tried the same way you did but it hasn’t gotten loose. Do I keep working at it?
Get a super large screw driver and hammer it in the crack.
Robert DIY thanks for the response. I’ll try it today and see if I have any luck
Is there anything special u have to do fr a manual
Nope
any preference on what axels you like to use to replace them? looking for new ones, just not sure what to buy
OEM axles are the best. What kind of car do you have?
Robert DIY 97 volvo 850
I got the passenger side axle done last weekend. I am now looking at rplacing the boots and rebuilding the driver's side axle ('98 V70). I got the axle out of the hub no problem. The axle doesn't want to pop out of the transmission though. Any tips for getting that end loose?
The best thing to do is get a large screw driver and wedge it in the mating surface of the axle and tranny.
Robert DIY I just tried that, it's being pretty stubborn. Is there any danger to shifting into neutral and rotating the axle some, like maybe a quarter or half turn? Is it possible that could help?
No, just keep banging until you get the driver to wedge it out.
Robert DIY
Thanks, it popped out this morning. When I took the outer joint apart and cleaned it up, I noticed a couple of the steel balls had been gouged, ground down a little bit (one had a small "c"-shaped spot carved out of it, and the other just had a small dent). Should I try to replace those 2 steel balls, just reuse the ones I have, or replace the axle itself?
I would replace the axle with a used OEM one from a salvage yard.
I'm in trouble Robert ! :( my s70 volvo when I backed up the went to turn left then right the steering like locked? but not from the steering wheel ! I couldn't turn to the right ! so I backed it up left and jacked the car up and checked the steering wheel it didn't seem to be yhe problem because I co u ld turn the ignition on and also it was turned Way to the left as far as it can go but seemed even further ! so I jacked car up and I noticed the control arm was rubbing touching the tire ! like the wheel turned Way too far left and the cv joint outer joint was turned like it slipped out of socket causing the control arm to touch the tire ! I took the control arm off ! then wiggled the keys in the steering column and tried to turn the sheet eventually it freed up the steering so I put everything back together ! knowing that I still was skeptical not thinking I found gh er problem but drove it around the block being very carfull! seemed ok but I knew better ! the next day I went to back the car up then forward in t he same way and the steering or sheets locked again in place? and the outer cv joint looks like it'd turned way too far ! as 8f it's been pulled out of socket but when driving I f onto hear snytjkng! could ghost be bad cv joint or I'd it my rack and pinion?
John, your message is not clear. You can send me a picture or something else.
After replacing both cv axles my transmission doesn’t seem to engage and I’m in a constant neutral
One of them is not in all the way. May not fit.
does the 850 Cv axle part fits all the models? thanks
Hakim Gil I do not understand the question.
Does the CV axle part of 850 fits V70xc? Thanks for taking time to reply
Hakim Gil No, they are different on the AWD vehicles.
Hakim Gil You can verify this by searching parts for both cars on a parts website and checking the pn.
thanks so much for the feed back
It looks pretty simple, I need to replace my axle on both sides, and like you said the sound from my axle would happen occasionally but now its all the time. I might tackle this job on my own, I do have to replace my ball joint and control arm. Would you suggest replacing the axle's first? Money is just kinda tight
it's not a wheel hub?
control arms first.
Hi Robert do you know if this is the same as on the c70 of the same age? Thanks
Depends on the year
@@RobertDIY 2001
close.
Robert, I'm about to do this same job to my 96 850t. It started grumbling the moment I changed the upper strut mounts. I think we pulled the hub too far to the side while swapping.
I was thinking I would remove the strut rather than the control arm, for one thing, to make sure I put it together correctly last time, but also to leave the control arm bushings the way they are. You mentioned they need to be pre-loaded.
Any reason NOT to do it this way?
+Phil Pacelli no, same way I do it now.
+Phil Pacelli when you bolt the strut to knuckle boots back on, let the knuckle rest out away from the car then tightened the bolts. Better for alignment.
That might have been my problem. I pushed in on that while tightening the bolts.
Thank you very much! I will continue to watch your videos.
Hi Robert, I want to replace both front CV axle assemblies to my XC90 2.5T 2007 AWD. My concern is that this car was sold here in El Salvador Central America (where I live). This mean that is not USA version and I don't want to buy the wrong parts. Any advice please?
I have no idea. 🤔
Hey rob i live in johnstown pa i followed your tips the axel never came out its stuck in there pretty good in turn though trying this just made a hole in my transmission
Did you say that you have a hole in your transmission?
Yeah i used the carpenters crow bar and it put a hole in my transmission when i hit the other end of the crow bar it pushed a hole right through the transmission
I sent you a private message. Please call me.
Thank you got it fixed brought it to a shop 350 dollars later its fixed turns out the guy I bought it from drove it on a axel so bad the bearings heated and sealed to the axel it self they had to weld a plate on it and use a slide hammer to pull it out
Good to read.
Hi Robert. Recently went to replace my drivers side axle in a rhd car. All good until we took out the original axle to see it had a counterweight on it, whilst the non-oem replacement does not. Not sure what to do here. Unfortunately as I’m based in australia we have very limited access to oem parts without paying hundreds in shipping. Thoughts? Thanks
Send it! The counter weight is used to balance the shaft. The replacement should be fine.
do you know how similar this is to a 2000 Volvo S80? I know the strut replacements are virtually identical to the 850 but wasn't sure if you know how similar the axles are.
Robert if the boot is bAD SHOULD YOU REPLACE BOTH BOOT AND AXLE OR CAN OU JUST RELACE BOOT
+Michelle Scafaro boots.
Robert, your closing remark is: If the axle pops out... your car will just stop. Driving at only about 20 mph, with a BANG, I believe this is exactly what happened. Alarming. At 140,000 and being the original owner, I'm planning to put in new CV Axle and ball joint. The Question is: how frequently does the CV axle just "pop out?" Seems like a highly dangerous situation. I was very glad I was driving on my quite road at a slow speed and not my wife who normally drives this V70 (2002) to work every day. Your thoughts? Thx, Doug Day, Maine (and I'm not talking about After my work. I'm talking about Out of the Blue after 140,000 miles without any obvious alarm weakness prior.
Probably 1 in 100,000
Where did you get the replacement axle ?
man, how long ago was this...???
Autozone!
do you have a video in replacing just the outer boot? noticed a tear beginning on relatively new axles, previous owner replaced them a few years back ( maybe aftermarket?)... I've always just replaced the axel, never even tried getting a boot on. those Volvo axels cost big $, I've used the Chinese eBay axels on eBay and they seem to last a few years. but maybe a $10 boot will prevent spending even more ca$h on my latest project
+Mark Begle ruclips.net/video/gonWl9mJd_Y/видео.html
+Mark Begle ruclips.net/video/gt9w-ZSxs9I/видео.html
One other thing the spindle for the odometer replaced that type twice, Ebay has an upgraded one, lot better, u showed me how to replace it
cool
hi Robert, I have a 95 volvo 850 t5. I was in the act of replacing the front wheel bearing and got to the stage of removing the star bolts in the rear of the bearing housing and used the wrong socket to remove the bolts (12 point hex) and realized I needed some kind of reverse female torks bit and marred the bolts. am I screwed? or is there a way to get those off after the damage? thanks Don. (are you still in your western USA tour? I would be stoked if you were near me)
+dongofast I am still touring. If you get the proper tool, you may be able to tap them on and get the bolts out.
Hello Robert. As always great work with this video. Question though... what happened If after the new passenger axle is installed that the car stumbles with a rumble into second or 3rd? Auto trans.
Axle should not cause that issue.
Robert, how can I tell if I can get away with rebuilding my CV axles and replacing the boots, vs. just replacing the axles? You mentioned in your informational video that a clicking sound means they need to be replaced. My axles don't click (from what I can tell), but the boots on both axles are torn and there is grease everywhere. I think they have been torn a good long while now. I can get remanufactured Volvo axles from FCP for $65 each (plus core charge), but I'd rather rebuild the ones I have if they are in good enough condition.
If they are not making noise I would rebuild them.
Thanks. I will order a couple of kits to rebuild both axles.
Same process for manual transmission?
Because I couldn’t get mine out on my s70
Yep
Hi Robert, is this the same procedure for passenger side?
+r martin No, the passenger side has a currier bearing that has 2 bolts holding it on to the back of the engine. Easy process and much easier to pull out.
Robert, a friend of mine is saying that what you are calling the transmission is in fact the differential and that the fluid that would emanate would be differential fluid, i.e., 90 weight gear oil. I am losing a lot of ATF so maybe the leak source is not here. What do you think? Would I be losing ATF from this joint or would it be 90 weight gear oil?
I don't even know what kind of car you have.
Well, you can take his advise.
Thank you for this video, my left cv axel went out yesterday, would you recommend replacing both sides together, or just the side that is out.? Blessings to you and your family
Just the bad one.
Gonna do this tomorrow on the v70
cool