Milwaukee M18 Battery Pack Safely Restored
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- In this video we take a look into a M18 2.5AH battery pack that will not charge. This pack has evidently sit on a shelf too long and the voltage has dropped too low for the charger to charge correctly. We take a quick look inside measure for balance and restore charge to the cells. All cells balance well and we test capacity before complete reassembly. This is another video that I have trying to show the correct way to restore cells. So many videos out there showing simply jumping or boosting without any knowledge of inside condition of the cells or any monitoring. I have a video on the 40V Kobalt pack if you really want to see one that would be extremely dangerous to boost or jump without looking inside! Hope you find this video helpful and Thanks for watching!
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Today I successfully replaced the PCB on the Milwaukee M18/5Ah batteries. When I soldered all the contacts and pressed the control button, none of the LEDs lit up? But when I put it in the charger the battery worked like new because the Milwaukee Intelligent Charger unlocked the battery!
Excellent!!! About the best video tutorial I’ve seen on restoration of Battery packs. This Man knows his stuff, Ima telling ya! And no stupid music, and no cussing, very very well worth watching! 👍
I have just about every tool platform, and their respective batteries, and the M18 and older 18 VOLT NiCds are the only ones I’ve ever had issues with?! Having said that, I think the M18 batteries by and large are very very good. The older NioCds, not so much.
The Creator here touched on a couple of VERY Important items: NEVER NEVER let these M18 batteries sit for a long time on a low charge! A Milwaukee Rep told me, when you bring a new set of batteries Home, charge them right away! I’ve had Makita batteries I’ve bought on Clearance, and they not even register one bar on the gauge, yet they will charge. It’s kinda crap shoot sometimes? I have had good luck jump starting a weak battery, ooff of a good one, but if there is a weak bank inside, they will not take a full charge, and eventually run themselves back down. They have to be taken apart and handled like in this video. I have several M18 3.0 XC packs that will make a great Winter Time project! 😆
I let ‘Cotontop3’ know you had checked out his Channel, so we’ll see if he responds in kind. I never hit the SUBSCRIBE Button, for some reason, but I rectified that a few moments ago! 👍👍👍✌🤝😊
Awesome! Thanks for your very kind comment!
Without a doubt the best descriptive easy to understand videos I have ever seen. I also loved the way you showed in your description all the places where you can get the tools and testing equipment.
Very informative and useful to know we can recover the batteries when they've gone too low.
Sometimes we get Lucky! I have since done another M18 the same exact way also never used still in the package and dusty on the shelf. Like someone bought it at a flea market. We don't always have that great of outcome though. Glad these worked out so well. Thanks for your comment.
excellent video. I purchased a Milwaukee impact drill with a battery attached from a police auction. Who knows how long its been sitting in property and evidence. But anyways, I placed the battery in the chargers and got a green/red light. All of the battery cells had low voltage, about .5 I followed your instruction and brought this battery back to life. I don't know how long it will last. I did not do a load test because I don't have that equipment. But thank you.
For whatever reason, many of my neighbors have Milwaukee tools and battery packs. I have offered to work on the packs that are having issues. Some packs are very new and some are quite old, used and abused. Tho unbalanced cells are typical, I have a 9 Ah pack that likely needs a cell or 2 replaced. I would really like to see a youtube on removing cells from the middle of these packs. There is a fair bit of structure involved. So far, the packs in youtube videos have internals quite different from those that I am seeing.
Is it similar in construction to the DeWalt Flex Volt in this video?
ruclips.net/video/DyAWp6jYnLk/видео.html
I have a Milwaukee Impact that Inonly use a few times a year and I finally ran the battery down. That battery appeared to charge well. I was surprised to find that the second battery wouldn’t charge. In 10 years, I doubt that I have ever charged it. I will have to see if I can get it charged. I have a power supply.
I've had to slowly bring other packs back up due to some weird cold weather performance.
Say what you will about Milwaukee's nebulous and silly marketing, their packs have been dead nuts reliable for me. My oldest M18 (XC 5.0 Ah) is now 7 years old and it still performs well. I haven't done a capacity rating rest on it in a few years but it feels 60-70% of my newish 5.0 packs. Then again, I've been kind to my packs, many packs in rotation and nothing run too hard, too hot. I generally resist high C charging rates. Heck, sometimes I wish I could lower the charge rate of the radical M18 charging without too much modification.
Great video!
My favorite packs for sure. Mine have held up the same way as you mentioned above!
2019-2020 batteries I have are a mess. They self-discharge in max 1 month, then go become unusable and I have to manually charge them. I'm not sure it's a batch problem or they cheated and made them all that way.
I have not heard that. I do not have any myself that new. Thanks for sharing. Sad since they typically have some of the best and longest lasting packs out there. I would try to get them swapped out under warranty for sure.
@@ThriftyToolShed The new packs use Samsung 25R M, they are amazing and can be recovered at very low voltage. The pink Samsung 30T (3aH used in their 6 and 9aH packs) have major problems with self discharge and packs go out of balance. Have also noticed the pink Samasung 40T (4aH used in there 12aH packs) also seem to have self discharge problems. I think the sony green 2, 2.5 and 3aH are the best I've seen, used in the Makita packs.
@@battmanbattman5308 I just noticed last night that my Milwaukee 12ah battery pack for my chain saw was showing 3 lights on the charge indicator but the battery charger was saying it was fully charged. I suspect the battery is out of balance. Hopefully I can fix it somehow as that 12Ah battery is very expensive.
подскажите-как обойти защиту bms платы на аккумуляторе. 18в Милуоки? Я его сбалансировал и зарядил imx 6...или только плату новую надо(индикатор не работает и зарядка мигает Зел-красн цветом)
EXCELLENT VIDEO, FRIEND.
Do you provide any repair service? Or maybe I can just donate my bad battery packs. I can't get repair parts here but it would be a waste to discard them knowing someone like you can fix them up.
For all the "technology " Milwaukee claims to put in their batteries and chargers....I'm always having to open mine up.
You got lucky if you own 10, and they are still all balanced and working.
For low current tools I've had good luck with Milwaukee...but things like their string trimmers, lawn-mower, vacuums, all go through packs super fast.
I think they match cells good at the factory...but don't think their chargers are doing any true balancing. Maybe I've just had bad luck though, because there are plenty of people online who swear by them.
Have you seen the latest video I have on the M18. It's the 12Ah High Output. I dig into it a little and it is an obvious cell issue on some of the 1st gen 21700 cells. I focus on the 12.0 and the 8.0 High Output primarily in the video. I have had good luck in general with Milwaukee. Much better luck than with TTI's Ryobi packs for sure. I do share at the end of the new video of Amazon having a deal on the M18 8.0Ah packs. I said I would maybe try one and see how it works out, well it's fake...
A super well done one and even 21700 cells. Absolutely Fake though!
@@ThriftyToolShed Don't think I've seen any of your videos before today. Just had another 12.0 die after about 15 cycles and started doing some online research which led me here.
I'll check out some of your other videos, and the ones you talking about.
Spot on man.
Don't see a battery load balancer in your list. Have been trying to find a decent one so I don't blow up my 12.0
This is one that I use.
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Can you tell me why my fuel gauge is not working? The battery is fully charged but when you press the button on the battery it doesn't show anything. Hope you have an answer. Thanks
The most common issue I have seen on these when the fuel gauge stops working is corrosion. I show this on a DeWalt battery pack repair video I believe. I have not seen it as much on the M18. On the DeWalt 20V packs this is a common issue.
Looking good.
Excellent use of the dewalt 8v driver. I wonder what bit set you used?
Thanks, I used the T10 Torx security bit from my long reach but set. I have them in the list in the description. They are handy for the money.
What's the minimum voltage of such a battery ? You set the cut-off at 13.5. Why ?
Is it 15V, less (given that the samsung cells can be discharged at down to 2.5V/cell) ?
When does the cut-off occur for Milwaukee tools ? We could take that as a reference.
Simply 2.7v per cell cut out. So I usually use 2.7x5 for the 5S packs. And yes the cell data sheet or spec sheet will let you know the minimum voltage level. Typical is 2.7V for Li-ion. And yes of course you can use the shut off point of the battery packs typically to test by, I think I have mentioned or showed that in many videos.
@@ThriftyToolShed Looks like parameters and charge state matter quite a lot. When testing stored batteries that are 20.0 to 20.35V mostly I get 15% less capacity (difference from 20.35 to 20.75V) than when draining them a little and fully charging up to ~20.75V, then testing them.
Question, have your encountered tool batteries with what appear to have filed with open cells ? I have seen some Ryobi packs that the cells appear open, no visible damage from heat, but if you connect up a power supply to try and charge with a them with a current limit, they draw no current, and of course measure no voltage... When I encountered this failure mode, I thought it was strange. I have seen this same condition on more than one battery pack... and out of the five cells in the pack, they all were open... Which makes me wonder if this is a common failure mode, or possibly a bad lot of cells ? I don't have need to repair them, I was just wondered what the failure mode was... I have found that the Makita tool batteries seems to be more reliable, at least with my experience. -BC
I have a video on a 12V Hitachi pack that all cells have apparently activated the CID (current interrupt device) has opened up. I have only seen this a few times. Usually due to high current protection such as short circuit or close to short circuit.
@@ThriftyToolShed Yes, I know that the cells typically have a built in "Fuze" type device, but since they are in series, I find it strange that all the cells in these two packs were "open"... As far as I know these two packs, were never over stressed... I suspect I'll never know what the true cause was...If I had access to the FA lab and the equipment there, I'd dissect some of the cells and get an internal look-see. In reality, it's not worth wasting time on... Regards, -BC
Yes, I agree how weird that is is. In the video of the 3S 12V pack I thought it odd that all 3 had the CID open. Even stranger is all yours doing it.
Problem is that once they are recharged they are weak and will not last very long while in use, on most of them, it’s really just a jumó start but if the cells are to old and no good!? They will be no good
That is almost always the case as you never want a li-ion cell to go below 2.7V obviously, but I have had a few new packs that have gone low in storage and they did recover at almost full capacity. I have only seen a few packs do this and it's different. If you want to see more about Lithium cells and how I test then see this video as well...
ruclips.net/video/f9SOPVEqgkw/видео.html
Hey, do you happen to have a manual for the capacity tester you are using near the end of the video ? I have one from someone, but it has no instructions whatsoever. I'm figuring out how to setup various things. What I could not figure is by what logic you set values like current, voltage, total power to increase or decrease. The single button when holding it presses sometimes decreases them, sometimes increases them. Any tips on general use of this tester ? Thanks in advance.
I will look and see if I can find one. These are weird with the one button. It is a pain to get the up/dn feature to work. You can double press the button while adjusting the up/dn of a parameter, but it's real finicky to get this to work correctly.
@@ThriftyToolShed I managed to set the needed parameters properly. All I need to do now is double-press at main screen to reset the Ah rating after a test is complete. Would be good to know all the tricks that can be done though.
Just curious where did you get your charger set up?
Hi, I have many ways to charge cells. The way I shared in this case is the easiest way for me. I simply used a current limited bench power supply to limit the current to 1 amp and set voltage low enough so it will not over shoot. I have had several links to power supplies in my videos and some may be obsolete now. It's hard to keep them working honestly. This is a example of one similar to the one I used. Hope it helps.
amzn.to/3MW3wYA
what brand charger is that ..?
I believe you are asking about the bench power supply?
This one is a Uni-T 0-30V I now use a Wanptek 0-60V to help out with the larger 40-60V packs etc. The Uni-T is great so it's all about the voltage level you need...
Newer version Uni-T
amzn.to/3S9RjFh
Wanptek 60V
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@@ThriftyToolShed l mean has large red color cooling fan on it..
Oh, that is a load test. I use it for capacity tests. It's awesome. I use the updated 150W version now.
amzn.to/46Ho7cB
I would of sent it in for waranty
I explained why He did not.
13th like :D
That's the proper way to do it.
Good lad.
A 10 or 20 amp load test would properly test the recovered cells (perhaps next time ???)
That tester is 150W, won't do for such testing. It's recommended not to exceed 6A discharge @ max 21V when testing 18V batteries.