It all has to do with cable tension and gear mesh. Those little servos don’t provide a lot of tension, and if the gears aren’t aligned just right when the gear change is made the one axle just has to turn a little more to turn the locking cogs to the right position for engagement. Nothing wrong with the system or how it’s working 😁
Had this issue with mine, definitely check the servo for the locking differential. I actually had canyon hobbies rebuild it for free. The new metal gears inside the servo solved the issue permanently. In all honesty it is wise to check cable tension, and inside the diff Incase something has worked its way into the ring and pinion gears not allowing the full lock.
All I know is you don't shift it when it's in motion it makes a weird noise so I quit doing that I make sure it's fully stopped then switch mine was an engaging well when it was in motion and I noticed it because the truck would jerk I haven't had any problems so far maybe just make sure the truck is fully stopped before Switching it to lock
You want your front locker to lock first. Here is the reason, when climbing up you can lock the front and leave the rear open. This will keep the truck from rising the front tire in a torque twist and help keep all 4 on the ground. Madmatt showed this concept on a rear 4x4 here on youtube. As for what's wrong with your rig I'm searching for the answer on my ultimate hauler. The rear axle won't engage the locker.
@Crawl Talk Run I watched another video that a guy had a small bearing ball holding his out. I'm going to look at that next. I tried pulling the cable with Needle nose Pliers and it still wouldn't lock. Maybe traxxas gve me a extra part. 🤣
Mines on a Trx6 I cleaned everything out new grease was aplied and still doing it thinking the cable cuz if I give the cable a pill it locks it but also same as yours I was thinking about adding a shim on one side to help the locker not scoot back Lmk if u figure it out
Dude I judged figured it out check the cable that goes to the servo and screw it in more I screwed mine in and it was able to pull it better and further
Possible wear issue? I didn’t have that issue at all but that sounds like a wear issue. The housing shouldn’t really affect the retention so much I’d think.
@@nickbates2009 where the cables mounts to tht servo, I took the horn off the servo and then the little post that holds the wire next to the servo I backed the bolt out, pulled the cable tight, wrapped it around the bolt and then screwed it back in to hold tension
Развлечения
It all has to do with cable tension and gear mesh. Those little servos don’t provide a lot of tension, and if the gears aren’t aligned just right when the gear change is made the one axle just has to turn a little more to turn the locking cogs to the right position for engagement. Nothing wrong with the system or how it’s working 😁
Had this issue with mine, definitely check the servo for the locking differential. I actually had canyon hobbies rebuild it for free. The new metal gears inside the servo solved the issue permanently. In all honesty it is wise to check cable tension, and inside the diff Incase something has worked its way into the ring and pinion gears not allowing the full lock.
This is why I avoid crawlers with too many bells and whistles.
Yeah I hear that. I sold this rig to Ed. The Blind Russian.
Don't switch it while driving! Always stop, lock it and you can go
even when stopped it was having the issue. pretty sure the cable has fixed it.
All I know is you don't shift it when it's in motion it makes a weird noise so I quit doing that I make sure it's fully stopped then switch mine was an engaging well when it was in motion and I noticed it because the truck would jerk I haven't had any problems so far maybe just make sure the truck is fully stopped before Switching it to lock
I had had this issue and screwing the cable more fixed it.
You want your front locker to lock first. Here is the reason, when climbing up you can lock the front and leave the rear open. This will keep the truck from rising the front tire in a torque twist and help keep all 4 on the ground. Madmatt showed this concept on a rear 4x4 here on youtube. As for what's wrong with your rig I'm searching for the answer on my ultimate hauler. The rear axle won't engage the locker.
I can see that reasoning. I was told that the cable on the locking servo needed to be tightened.
@Crawl Talk Run I watched another video that a guy had a small bearing ball holding his out. I'm going to look at that next. I tried pulling the cable with Needle nose Pliers and it still wouldn't lock. Maybe traxxas gve me a extra part. 🤣
Mines on a Trx6 I cleaned everything out new grease was aplied and still doing it thinking the cable cuz if I give the cable a pill it locks it but also same as yours I was thinking about adding a shim on one side to help the locker not scoot back Lmk if u figure it out
The cover must be closed to operate the diff lock it’s just pulling the top out instead of locking( correction works better with closed
Dude I judged figured it out check the cable that goes to the servo and screw it in more I screwed mine in and it was able to pull it better and further
Awesome! I havent worked on the truck mechanically in a little bit. Ill dig into this and try it out! I was wondering if it was cable related
@@CrawlTalkRun may have just been the the cable wasn’t full screwed into the thing all to well
@@CrawlTalkRun its work after check the cable?
My diff fork pops out when i try to disengage with the cover off. It was binding when id disengage and re-engage again. Anyone else experience this?
Possible wear issue? I didn’t have that issue at all but that sounds like a wear issue. The housing shouldn’t really affect the retention so much I’d think.
Trying to figger a way for the wheel off the ground stops spinning with the wheel on the ground keeps spinning on hsp rc
Yes, I'm experiencing it. I was hoping your vid was a fix for me. 🤣
soorrry lol sounds like it just needs a tightening of the cable that is connected to the cable!
should be pretty easy!
I just permanently locked mine and removed the servo
How?
@@nickbates2009 where the cables mounts to tht servo, I took the horn off the servo and then the little post that holds the wire next to the servo I backed the bolt out, pulled the cable tight, wrapped it around the bolt and then screwed it back in to hold tension
Your servo might be weak
Yeah I think the cable was stretched out weak servo but the thing was brandy new. None the less she's a shelf queen @ ed's now lol
I rebuilt my servo with metal gears, the kit is about $20, it did solve my slipping issue.