The "no neutral" is a great option as a lot of wiring here in Australia doesn't have a neutral at the switch. A little disappointing the no neutral can't do power monitoring. The Aeotec Z-Wave nano-dimmer does power monitoring with no neutral, but that device is about $80 Australian so is ridiculously expensive by comparison.
@@notenoughtech Lets hope they work it out soon :). I do like the Xiaomi products in general and have quite a few of them on ZigBee now. When Z-Wave was so terrible in Home Assistant, I migrated most things to ZigBee. Mind you, Z-Wave is now really good in Home Assistant..... I still like the cheaper ZigBee devices.
ZigBee will be the thing of the future thanks to the ZigBee alliance and major players jumping on board. So I think it's a good investment going forward
@@notenoughtech I am cautious predicting the future at the moment, but I do hope you re right. I think Zigbee, Z-Wave and WiFi are all part of the present and maybe part of the bigger picture with CHoIP. Thread is also looming large as Apple are now jumping on board Thread and Google own Thread. There really does need to be just one standard though. When Home Automation moves from being a battle of who can make the most money to being what is best for the end user then we will achieve something more standardised :).
For IoT to succeed you have to decouple it from the internet. It's a great security risk having millions of devices connected to WiFi directly. Networks like ZigBee relay on a hub which limits how many devices can be used as an entry point so one of these protocols will be the future.
Hi, thanks for this video. You say at 1:48 that it supports power on behavior. Only the one with the neutral wire? Or both? By power on behavior, you mean keep het bulbs connected to power no matter what the switch does? Like you would want with smart bulbs? How should it be wired then m
The default power state after power loss. You can pick what happens when you lose the power on recovery. You can set it to off to keep the lights disabled or recover last state if I remember corrrectly. In either scenario the wiring schematic remains the same
I’m struggling to understand how the switch actuates the light; there are different wiring diagrams in the instructions but what I want to know is, will a one gang wall switch without neutral, be able to turn the light *on* by *opening* the switch, if the relay and HomeKit was used to turn it off, whist the wall switch was closed? If so, that’s fantastic, but how is it achieved? I have fitted Aqara H1s elsewhere in my house but I have one particular room where the light fitting has G9 bulbs and the switch is an expensive ‘retro’ one on a wooden pattress, which I’d like to keep for aesthetics, and put the T1 in the ceiling…
The no-neutral switches operate on leaking current. To easily understand how to wire this, draw your current wiring and tag each wire, then assign names (letters) from the schematic in Aqara manual. It helps me each time I have doubts about something. If you are unsure about the way to connect this, ask a professional to do the installation for you. It's cheaper than dealing with possible damage.
Hi, thanks for the great video, will this (t1 with no neutral) work with an impulse (latching) relay? İ have 3 momentary switches connected to single room lights with a latching relay on the box
Hi Mat, Am I able to use Aqara T1 no neutral in two-way switch diagram. I have two switches which controll one bulb, but I'm not sure how to wire T1 to the switches. The first switch is with Load wire and two comunication wires. The comunication wires are goint go the secong switch and from the second switch is going a third wire to the load(led light). Can you tell me how to wire T1 switch so I can sontinue using the external switches.
The actual setup will depend on the multiway switches you have. In a typical two way configuration, you need to replace only one inwall switch. Think about your physical wall switches as one giant switch. No matter where you press the switch each one knows that lights is on/off. So no matter which one you press, if you connect your multiway switch to your aqara, by proxy the aqara will know what's happening. The only issue is with 3 way switching where middle switch is different than the others. In that case, you need to connect the aqara to anything but the "middle"
Do you know if the "No neutral" version will handle a small inductive load like a fan? Most UK bathrooms have an extractor fan piggy-backed onto the lights. The Sonoff "No neutral" will not handle a fan.
hi again, would you recommend to hide the relay in the wall, and link this to hub and smart swich (remote control). so no switch on wall, and control via voice and smart switch control or button?
My kitchen lights operate via voice controls only. I'm used to this so I don't event think of the switch. You could hide it as long as you have an access to re-pair your devices again. Power loss caused one of the lights to get unpaired so having access to the switch helps in that situation
Hi Mat, are you able to disable to internal relay on these switches to allow them to just detect the action of the switch position being changed and not switching the light on/off?
Hi and thanks for the video. Does this device act as a repeater/range extender of a Zigbee network? I did not find any hint specifically about this device. I just read that in generall all non battery devices should do but Sonoff e.g. specifically mentions this in the product description
Saddly no aliexpress links T.T i hope they appear there soon as there is no option to buy for south america. Are you planning on trying them with home assistant?
Maybe a stupid question. Is it possible to only connect L and the wall switch to the module T1 (no neutral)? And loop the L and Load wire(so always power on light)? Reason fore this: I use already a smartbulb. I only want to make the wall switch smart. I can group the bulb and the wallswitch together in Home Assistant.
I don't see a reason why this wouldn't work. As long as you are ok with the fact that the bulb is on all the time and you have other ways to control it.
@@notenoughtech @NotEnoughTECH I'm confused now 🤔 If you use the normal way. It's making the dumb switch smart to use with dumb lights? But the suggestion here is making a dumb switch smart AND keeping the power on for a smart light? Why wouldn't I want to with the one without neutral?
I purely depends on how you want your lights to work. If you want to connect the smart lights you need to make sure they are constantly connected. It's easier with neutral wire. Plus some switches let you disconnect the relay action. With no neutral your switch would be on when the bulb is in. With neutral wire you could wire the switch in parallel to achieve the same effect
@@JoseBerruezo I doubt no neutral will do that, neutral wire switch probably could depending on board design. The trickle current would not be sufficient for the no neutral switch to act as a router. I’m prepared to be wrong though.
@@NMOBrien I understood, well the best will be to wait for Mat to do more tests and inform us, I was interested in this switch without neutral due to the ease of installation.
hi Mat. could i connect a switch module directly to a motion detector so that when the motion detector triggers it sends a signal to another switch module and switches the lights on. kind of removing the traditional wired connection between lights and motion detector?
You could do that. I can't remember if the switching logic on these is 3.3V . If so then yes. Otherwise if it uses mains for the switch circuit then don't do that. Take a look at sonoff mini if I recall well it had 3.3v switch logic
@@notenoughtech thanks for feedback. Bought one of the switches on your video tonight but will chat with one of my more electrical minded friends before hook up to motion detector...yes the motion detector is into mains but will hook up the lights first and get them on the smart network
Remember if you have a ZigBee hub or cc2531 you can simply do that in automation panel. PIR doesn't have to be connected physically.. just over the ZigBee network
Hi, I just received this product. I have connected it to my Philips Hue bridge. I have the problem that I can't turn the device of in the Philips Hue app, only using the button on the device. I am able to turn it on using the Hue app strangely enough. Do you know what might be the issue?
They should work fine (assuming ZigBee) some data may not be reported like pressure. As from my experience eWeLink has to have a similar sensor in their dB for it to use the data correctly
Hi. If this device is imbedded in a stud or masonry wall light switch back box, is the zigbee signal affected badly? I’m trying to decide if WiFi (Shelly for e.g) or zigbee devices are best once installed in walls. Thanks... great videos btw
It's the same signal penetration as with WiFi 2.4. there is an antenna that you can lead out of the wall and stick to the bottom of the switch plate for best reception. It's narrow so it shouldn't be visible much
@@MichaKrasowski good to know, nice one. I think I’ll be going the Shelly route. Although I’m really tempted by Zigbee devices, I worry it wouldn’t compare to my WiFi routers performance for coverage
You will miss out on mesh. The advantage or ZigBee is the mesh networking which makes the deployment 9f extra devices easy. Having 2-3 wall switches in your house basically provide you with enough nodes to support over 150 devices and have them interconnected
Great video, nice explaining. I have a few Aqara products and I think about buying this one since I have no neutral wire, but I was wondering if you can use this on a 2 way switch too?
It depends on the 2 way switch wiring. Before I give you blanket "yes" you need to see how your switch is wired exactly then add the aqara one to the main switch observing the connection diagram
Magic ;) There is always current available on the live side. This is exploited by letting just enough through to power up the switch but not enough to power up the bulb
Hi Mat, Are you able to hook this up to a 12v DC system? I’m working on turning my boat into a smart boat but all my light switches are on 12v DC system.
The "no neutral" is a great option as a lot of wiring here in Australia doesn't have a neutral at the switch. A little disappointing the no neutral can't do power monitoring. The Aeotec Z-Wave nano-dimmer does power monitoring with no neutral, but that device is about $80 Australian so is ridiculously expensive by comparison.
Whoa that's a price and a half! I guess power monitoring would be much harder to do in this situation.
@@notenoughtech Lets hope they work it out soon :). I do like the Xiaomi products in general and have quite a few of them on ZigBee now. When Z-Wave was so terrible in Home Assistant, I migrated most things to ZigBee. Mind you, Z-Wave is now really good in Home Assistant..... I still like the cheaper ZigBee devices.
ZigBee will be the thing of the future thanks to the ZigBee alliance and major players jumping on board. So I think it's a good investment going forward
@@notenoughtech I am cautious predicting the future at the moment, but I do hope you re right.
I think Zigbee, Z-Wave and WiFi are all part of the present and maybe part of the bigger picture with CHoIP. Thread is also looming large as Apple are now jumping on board Thread and Google own Thread.
There really does need to be just one standard though. When Home Automation moves from being a battle of who can make the most money to being what is best for the end user then we will achieve something more standardised :).
For IoT to succeed you have to decouple it from the internet. It's a great security risk having millions of devices connected to WiFi directly. Networks like ZigBee relay on a hub which limits how many devices can be used as an entry point so one of these protocols will be the future.
Hi, thanks for this video. You say at 1:48 that it supports power on behavior. Only the one with the neutral wire? Or both?
By power on behavior, you mean keep het bulbs connected to power no matter what the switch does? Like you would want with smart bulbs?
How should it be wired then m
The default power state after power loss. You can pick what happens when you lose the power on recovery. You can set it to off to keep the lights disabled or recover last state if I remember corrrectly. In either scenario the wiring schematic remains the same
I’m struggling to understand how the switch actuates the light; there are different wiring diagrams in the instructions but what I want to know is, will a one gang wall switch without neutral, be able to turn the light *on* by *opening* the switch, if the relay and HomeKit was used to turn it off, whist the wall switch was closed? If so, that’s fantastic, but how is it achieved?
I have fitted Aqara H1s elsewhere in my house but I have one particular room where the light fitting has G9 bulbs and the switch is an expensive ‘retro’ one on a wooden pattress, which I’d like to keep for aesthetics, and put the T1 in the ceiling…
The no-neutral switches operate on leaking current. To easily understand how to wire this, draw your current wiring and tag each wire, then assign names (letters) from the schematic in Aqara manual. It helps me each time I have doubts about something. If you are unsure about the way to connect this, ask a professional to do the installation for you. It's cheaper than dealing with possible damage.
Hi, thanks for the great video, will this (t1 with no neutral) work with an impulse (latching) relay? İ have 3 momentary switches connected to single room lights with a latching relay on the box
Thanks Mat.
You beat everyone as usual 🥰
@@notenoughtech 😁
Hi Mat, Am I able to use Aqara T1 no neutral in two-way switch diagram. I have two switches which controll one bulb, but I'm not sure how to wire T1 to the switches. The first switch is with Load wire and two comunication wires. The comunication wires are goint go the secong switch and from the second switch is going a third wire to the load(led light). Can you tell me how to wire T1 switch so I can sontinue using the external switches.
The actual setup will depend on the multiway switches you have. In a typical two way configuration, you need to replace only one inwall switch. Think about your physical wall switches as one giant switch. No matter where you press the switch each one knows that lights is on/off. So no matter which one you press, if you connect your multiway switch to your aqara, by proxy the aqara will know what's happening.
The only issue is with 3 way switching where middle switch is different than the others. In that case, you need to connect the aqara to anything but the "middle"
Do you know if the "No neutral" version will handle a small inductive load like a fan? Most UK bathrooms have an extractor fan piggy-backed onto the lights. The Sonoff "No neutral" will not handle a fan.
I haven't tested it in this configuration so it's hard to say.
Hey there - quick question. How would you wire 2-way switch (ie stairwell - one sw up and one saw down) all of which no neutral. ? Thanks !!
It depends on how the switch is wired. This will work if your 2nd outlet is just a 'loop' .. so all you need is to fit it in line at the power feed.
Hai mat,thank for the video..can this aqara relay control autogate two door?
hi again, would you recommend to hide the relay in the wall, and link this to hub and smart swich (remote control). so no switch on wall, and control via voice and smart switch control or button?
My kitchen lights operate via voice controls only. I'm used to this so I don't event think of the switch. You could hide it as long as you have an access to re-pair your devices again. Power loss caused one of the lights to get unpaired so having access to the switch helps in that situation
Hi Mat, are you able to disable to internal relay on these switches to allow them to just detect the action of the switch position being changed and not switching the light on/off?
I wouldn't but you can simply not to wire it to the bulb.
Fair enough. I was just interested because I know this is something that can be done with Shelly devices.
I have new Shelly switches too. Video probably on 25th if you don't mind holding off a few days
@@notenoughtech I'll hold you to that!!!
Shelly holds me to that too. I have a soft embargo until then :)
Hi and thanks for the video. Does this device act as a repeater/range extender of a Zigbee network? I did not find any hint specifically about this device. I just read that in generall all non battery devices should do but Sonoff e.g. specifically mentions this in the product description
The devices that use no neutral connection from aqara act only as end devices. Not routers
@@notenoughtech hi and thanks. So that means that the one with neutral (which is actually the version I‘m looking for) acts as repeater?
Yes the no neutral version have limited amount of current to work with hence the lack of router functions
Does it has "follow mode" for the rocker switch, like what sonoff has put on its MINI R2?
Thanks for the video, do these devices integrate into apples HomeKit? I have other aqara devices which do, but only sensors. Thanks
Yes they have homekit support
Hi Matt, nice review! Have you tested the Aqara switch modules with Sonoff ZigBee Bridge, especially after installing the Tasmota on it?
I will add this to my list, the next one is about use of these with cc2531 and nodered
Does this fit the regular light switch box? It seems to be very big.
Found with MiHome app with lumi Gateway V3 of Xiaomi?
Saddly no aliexpress links T.T i hope they appear there soon as there is no option to buy for south america.
Are you planning on trying them with home assistant?
Next week I'll be testing it with cc2531 and see if they play equally nice
Maybe a stupid question. Is it possible to only connect L and the wall switch to the module T1 (no neutral)? And loop the L and Load wire(so always power on light)? Reason fore this: I use already a smartbulb. I only want to make the wall switch smart. I can group the bulb and the wallswitch together in Home Assistant.
I don't see a reason why this wouldn't work. As long as you are ok with the fact that the bulb is on all the time and you have other ways to control it.
Can this be done with both the one with and without neutral? I'm looking for a solution on how to do this!
With neutral you can do this. With no neutral switch you wouldn't have to
@@notenoughtech @NotEnoughTECH I'm confused now 🤔
If you use the normal way. It's making the dumb switch smart to use with dumb lights?
But the suggestion here is making a dumb switch smart AND keeping the power on for a smart light?
Why wouldn't I want to with the one without neutral?
I purely depends on how you want your lights to work. If you want to connect the smart lights you need to make sure they are constantly connected. It's easier with neutral wire. Plus some switches let you disconnect the relay action.
With no neutral your switch would be on when the bulb is in. With neutral wire you could wire the switch in parallel to achieve the same effect
Any capacitor supplied if you load isn’t sufficient on the lighting connected for the no neutral switch?
Yes, you would need to match the rating to your circuit requirement.
Nice Video. I have two questions, do these switches work as routers? Is it possible to use them with Zigbee2mqtt and CC2531? Thank you.
Very likely, I will be playing with CC2531 soon with all the Aqara stuff I have -- it will be easier to confirm then
@@notenoughtech :)
@@JoseBerruezo I doubt no neutral will do that, neutral wire switch probably could depending on board design. The trickle current would not be sufficient for the no neutral switch to act as a router. I’m prepared to be wrong though.
@@NMOBrien I understood, well the best will be to wait for Mat to do more tests and inform us, I was interested in this switch without neutral due to the ease of installation.
Can I use the model with “Neutral’ but not use that and leave it empty?
hi Mat. could i connect a switch module directly to a motion detector so that when the motion detector triggers it sends a signal to another switch module and switches the lights on. kind of removing the traditional wired connection between lights and motion detector?
You could do that. I can't remember if the switching logic on these is 3.3V . If so then yes. Otherwise if it uses mains for the switch circuit then don't do that. Take a look at sonoff mini if I recall well it had 3.3v switch logic
@@notenoughtech thanks for feedback. Bought one of the switches on your video tonight but will chat with one of my more electrical minded friends before hook up to motion detector...yes the motion detector is into mains but will hook up the lights first and get them on the smart network
Remember if you have a ZigBee hub or cc2531 you can simply do that in automation panel. PIR doesn't have to be connected physically.. just over the ZigBee network
Dose it support wireless mini light switch
How to connect the aqara module to a powerplug for a micro wave or something like that ? Can you give the scheme please?
Don't do this with microwave these units are not power full enough to handle the current
Hi, I just received this product. I have connected it to my Philips Hue bridge. I have the problem that I can't turn the device of in the Philips Hue app, only using the button on the device. I am able to turn it on using the Hue app strangely enough. Do you know what might be the issue?
Not from the top of my head. Could be simple incompatibility. I assume that aqara app would work just fine with these
Hi Mat. Thank you for your video. Can this Aqara Relay control window shutter?
No, you would need 2 relays to achieve this
Would you rather go with these or the Shelly?
If you are invested already in ZigBee these will do great if you want best DIY flexibility then Shelly is probably better
can you use them for power socket ? And control a tv for exemple or washing machine ?
Yes if if your power rating of the appliance is within the tolerance.
@@notenoughtech thanks so basically tv should be no prob? And is it shown on homekit ?
@@n25992 TV should be fine they don't usually exceed 200W. It's a ZigBee device so if you have a ZigBee compatible router you should be ok
Does these switch module works with Xiaomi zigbee gateway 3?
Thanks man, helped me a lot.
Happy to do so
Hi, good video - keep them coming. Can I connect Aqara sensors to my Sonoff gateway ?
They should work fine (assuming ZigBee) some data may not be reported like pressure. As from my experience eWeLink has to have a similar sensor in their dB for it to use the data correctly
👍👍👍
Hi Matt. Can you pair the AQARA Single Switch Module T1 (with neutral) with Xiaomi Hub/gateway in Mi Home app?
I will be testing this next week. I suspect it's possible
Hi, I was wondering the same, did you test it maybe?
Hi
I had no luck but my mi home is set to Chinese mainland server. Maybe you will have better luck in other server location?
@@notenoughtech did not worked with any server. Thanks anyway
Thanks for your feedback.
Hi. If this device is imbedded in a stud or masonry wall light switch back box, is the zigbee signal affected badly? I’m trying to decide if WiFi (Shelly for e.g) or zigbee devices are best once installed in walls. Thanks... great videos btw
It's the same signal penetration as with WiFi 2.4. there is an antenna that you can lead out of the wall and stick to the bottom of the switch plate for best reception. It's narrow so it shouldn't be visible much
I'm using sonoff zbmini, despite flooding my house with a mesh of 20 of these, it makes more problems than my shelly 2.5.
Are you running these with ewelink or custom coordinator?
@@MichaKrasowski good to know, nice one. I think I’ll be going the Shelly route. Although I’m really tempted by Zigbee devices, I worry it wouldn’t compare to my WiFi routers performance for coverage
You will miss out on mesh. The advantage or ZigBee is the mesh networking which makes the deployment 9f extra devices easy. Having 2-3 wall switches in your house basically provide you with enough nodes to support over 150 devices and have them interconnected
what about google home integration? can you control the switches using voice commands thru google home devices?
Yes you can. There is an associated skill for that and also homekit integration of you have a compatible hub from Aqara
Nice ! The neutral version is also a zigbee repeater ?
Yes it will act as a repeater, sorry for the late reply, YT notifications can be pants at times
Does the no neutral version act as a zigbee router, in home assistant?
It doesn't I'm afraid
How about sticking two wires into the Neutral terminal?
Not a recommended practice, especially that these terminals aren't too big.
Is this only a switch, or a dimmer also?
I'm sorry but these are just relays. They don't dim the lights
Great video, nice explaining.
I have a few Aqara products and I think about buying this one since I have no neutral wire, but I was wondering if you can use this on a 2 way switch too?
It depends on the 2 way switch wiring. Before I give you blanket "yes" you need to see how your switch is wired exactly then add the aqara one to the main switch observing the connection diagram
Do these come with dimming abilities?
No they don't dim lights I'm afraid
Can we control blinds with this switch?
This would depend on the blinds you have but the short answer is no.
also works with window blind?
Depends on the blind controller really if you can wire it as on off then yes
@@notenoughtech i need something that does the same as shelly 2.5 to turn the electric shutter switches on and off but works with mi home
You can link buttons via ZigBee with Shelly directly
How does the switch without neutral power up itself?
Magic ;)
There is always current available on the live side. This is exploited by letting just enough through to power up the switch but not enough to power up the bulb
@@notenoughtech isn't it a bit wasteful? Since the lamp offers some resistance
@@yokonunz its less than what would traditional device consume
@@notenoughtech so actually the switch without the neutral is better? Can you measure idle power usage?
This is what you probably want to watch/read notenoughtech.com/home-automation/smart-lights-wont-save-you-money/
Hi Mat,
Are you able to hook this up to a 12v DC system?
I’m working on turning my boat into a smart boat but all my light switches are on 12v DC system.
Not this ones, look at Shelly 1 - it has a dry contact.
Dose it work with homekit
Yes, via their hub
do i need a hub/bridge for this?
Yes, or a custom coordinator like CC2531