i finally finished the timing on my 4.2 s4 and it finally runs and you are one of the only youtuber that i know that i can actually learn from about my car. its so sad to see that no one wants to build these s4's due to the lack of engine space and even the timing issue. I am truly thankful and cant wait to see what the next modification will be in the next episode
I think plenty of people are people building them, just not filming and putting on YT. They don’t get the views, evidenced by this channel, and that’s what the bigger RUclipsrs are after. AMG’s don’t even seem to get the amount of views BMW’s do. I think a lot of people want a BMW but are scared of working on them because they quickly cost $$$, so it’s much easier to watch someone else do it. I’ll bet most of Sretens viewers at e539 Restorations aren’t BMW owners. It’s why I occasionally watch him and it’s proven to me that I can’t afford a BMW, financially or time wise. 6 years of daily driving a b6 S4 Avant and now going on 7 years with a b7 S4 have proven to me how reliable (knock on wood) and affordable they are to run when I do the maintenance myself.
Steve, you’re a legend. Thanks for being you. So I just recently purchased a 2004 Audi Allroad 4.2 with 205,000 as my daily. Changed the oil, added some liqui moly love products, new plugs, new filters, liqui moly fuel system cleaner, etc etc etc. She just seems unhappy under load and I’ve noticed she stinks when I park in the garage. Thought my catalytic converters were clogged, and may still be. I’ve been getting intermittent B2S2 codes and today I threw a B2S1 and S2 code. It’s either being choked out by a clogged catalytic converter or something else. So, VCDS here we come. -91 - 12 degrees requested and it was met with 1-1.5 degrees variance. -92 - 12.5 degrees met with 1-2 degrees variance. -93 - B1=-8 B2=-4 I think my B1 adjuster is getting close. Womp. But, no real other issues. I need to check fuel trims next. Thanks so much for making this video. It’s wonderful. You helped me understand what I’m looking at a lot better. I wish there was a resource for this information. It’s great to see it with VCDS, but I need to understand it entirely. P.S. how hard was it to remove the downpipes? Removing the catalytic converters on my B8 S4 was a nightmare and I’m envisioning the same here. Is there room and straight paths? The B8 was 1/4” extensions x3 and wobble sockets for 4/6 nuts…😂😂😂
Just pick up a b6 s4 , I just wanna say thank you so much RUclips doesn’t have a lot of technical info/data like this for these cars! Your channel is awesome! I’m hitting my cats next week this week I’m stuck doing valve cover gasket and seals and some radiator hoes and doing the SAI delete !
Amazing content as usual! I’m new to the B6 community and I have already picked up on a lot of knowledge from your content alone! Keep up the amazing work!
This is such excellent content man-you can convey some pretty complex subject matter clearly with zero hiccups! I don’t have any of these models (currently a 93’ UrS4) but plan on working more with the DAZA TFSI so a lot of these concepts will be applicable- Thanks!
Great video, my B6 S4 has similar characteristics under rapid load changes. I will be dropping the motor in the winter to check out the inside of the cam phasors to get a better idea if the deviations are a sign of the infamous pitting. Or if its a combination of a oil supply issue/ tensioner problem.
Great video Steve! I daily a 2010 S5 4.2. I’m in BC. I randomly get p2198, p2196 and p2096, p2098. Replaced injectors not long ago. Hpfp in the last 50k kms as well as both upstream O2 sensors. I did not change the high pressure fuel rail sensor which I’ll be replacing soon. Both banks long term fuel trims are always around -6 to -9. Idling for long time they go to -17 at the most. These codes come once in a while. In about 2 weeks I’ll go oil cooler gaskets while there replacing high fuel pressure sensor and lpfp unit.
Granted, I haven't experimented with fuel trim vs. air/fuel issues much but those trim numbers you're referencing are a bit high and I wonder if your engine is being choked out a bit from getting enough air. Replace your air filter recently, or check the cleanliness of the air box/ducting? And take a peek all the way up into the MAF+filter screen. Somehow someway, you're missing air. The 02 sensors are a red herring - they're just reporting that less air is appearing than expected.
@@FigureItAudi thanks! Sorry I didn’t mention, brand new K&N filter. Airbox and ducting super clean. I did clean the MAF and tried another used unit, I also tried disconnected. All the same, for some reason bank one will be always a bit richer, let’s say B1 -16 and B2 -14. Again this only goes that high while idling for some time. I’m the next weeks I’ll be changing the fuel rail pressure sensor. I also want to mention, I’m not running OEM spark plugs, I’m running Denso IK20TT. I understand these ones shouldn’t be an issue. Were replaced about 50k kms ago along with coils.
Kudos for the explanation overall. BUT one major thing that you have to always keep in mind. What you see under group 93, as -1 and +4 for Bank 1 and 2 doesn't always point to ware out. The reason is that those values depend straight on how the engine was timed. For example, I've changed chains on my VR6 last year and it was timed with -1 and +5 degrees. Should you know those and the acceptable difference you can see how far it goes, but in your case it's a straight on guess. Also, I doubt your figures are even close to a problem. VR6 min/max are -8 / +8 and I suspect that the V8 4.2 should be close to that range.
Hello, nice video :) Can you check in VCDS correction values for injectors in this engine? And do you know what data is presented in group 218,219? Please answer
Hello, regarding the questionable power output. I would buy at least 10 Hz GPS (chinese with usb for android phones were cheap with racelogic and dragy on other side) and try to measure 0-100 and 0-200 acceleration. these numbers are quite well known.
Hi, any news about s8 engine disassembly? I also have s8 d2 2000yr would like to see how rod bearings look like, cos those engines and from s6 c5 have really bad problem with bearings, in europe there is a lot of those engines blown or with rod bearing knock. Some people have already 2 engines blown, they say its oil pump fault, but probably also 5w30 oil instead of 5w40. Usually engine is blown by driving on highway and putting to much stress on the engine by overtaking the cars, and in Germany there is no speed limit on some of the roads. A lot of s8 and a8 engines lost its life out there.
Hey Piter - the engine will start sometime in the fall but I'll carefully document the condition of various bearings, cylinder and the valve train. I'm still not 100% set on what direction I want to go with the S8 in terms of power plant or power adder, either. It'll be a significant investment so I want to be sure I end up with a car that's really enjoyable and unique.
@@FigureItAudi if you're not be able to get rod bearings, Glyco and Kolbenshidt have them much cheaper. In case of scored alusil cylinder walls audi allows one repair oversize 0,1mm bigger, but I can't find oversized pistons. For pre facelift s8 they're available GR.1 in Etka but for facelift sadly there is no number and they don't fit from older model. Probably most important thing would be to look into the oil pump.
Both of my block 93 measurements are -7° and it is unable to keep block 91 and 92 at their spec. Bad news for me but I would assume that means is that is the max adjustment.
Thanks for adding a reference point! Are you able to add what your 91+92 specified and actual figures are as well? If or when you get around to doing a timing job, let us know what the key failure component was, too.
No - the critical thing you're missing is the piston position which can't be specifically determined by those other things. You have to use the age old queues like crank damper position, the crank lock pin hole, checking through the spark plug hole on cylinder 5 - the manual stuff.
I have same s4 and now it had p1340 and random misfires.. first cylinder 1 and now 5,6,7,8 where should i start looking? Coil packs? Spark plugs? Cam sensor? Appriciate if u help👍 i can send u some vcds pic for timing values
What are your cam adjustment values using the same approach as in the video? ...Do you know when the timing was last done on the car? By description of symptoms, this sounds like classic timing problems and it looks like it's getting worse.
@@FigureItAudi timing was done like 60.000km.. bank 1 dont give values in group 093 and group 091 it gives specific 0.0 and actual 27.0kw bank 2 is both 0.0🤔
Hopefully soon :D. It's in the can already minus some bonus content that I want. In fact the next episode after that is already wrapping too. Can't rush creativity...or something.
VCDS only supports certain VAG cars, like most Audi and VW's, and some Skoda and SEATs. If you have a different make, just google "[brand] obd2 scanner/reader" and you'll find either a specialized tool like VCDS, or a generic OBD2 tool.
Just go to www.ross-tech.com/ or someone that sells their authorized product (if it's not real, you can't register the device and you can't get support from Ross Tech).
i finally finished the timing on my 4.2 s4 and it finally runs and you are one of the only youtuber that i know that i can actually learn from about my car. its so sad to see that no one wants to build these s4's due to the lack of engine space and even the timing issue. I am truly thankful and cant wait to see what the next modification will be in the next episode
I think plenty of people are people building them, just not filming and putting on YT. They don’t get the views, evidenced by this channel, and that’s what the bigger RUclipsrs are after. AMG’s don’t even seem to get the amount of views BMW’s do.
I think a lot of people want a BMW but are scared of working on them because they quickly cost $$$, so it’s much easier to watch someone else do it. I’ll bet most of Sretens viewers at e539 Restorations aren’t BMW owners. It’s why I occasionally watch him and it’s proven to me that I can’t afford a BMW, financially or time wise. 6 years of daily driving a b6 S4 Avant and now going on 7 years with a b7 S4 have proven to me how reliable (knock on wood) and affordable they are to run when I do the maintenance myself.
Steve, you’re a legend. Thanks for being you.
So I just recently purchased a 2004 Audi Allroad 4.2 with 205,000 as my daily. Changed the oil, added some liqui moly love products, new plugs, new filters, liqui moly fuel system cleaner, etc etc etc. She just seems unhappy under load and I’ve noticed she stinks when I park in the garage. Thought my catalytic converters were clogged, and may still be. I’ve been getting intermittent B2S2 codes and today I threw a B2S1 and S2 code. It’s either being choked out by a clogged catalytic converter or something else. So, VCDS here we come.
-91 - 12 degrees requested and it was met with 1-1.5 degrees variance.
-92 - 12.5 degrees met with 1-2 degrees variance.
-93 - B1=-8 B2=-4
I think my B1 adjuster is getting close. Womp. But, no real other issues. I need to check fuel trims next.
Thanks so much for making this video. It’s wonderful. You helped me understand what I’m looking at a lot better. I wish there was a resource for this information. It’s great to see it with VCDS, but I need to understand it entirely.
P.S. how hard was it to remove the downpipes? Removing the catalytic converters on my B8 S4 was a nightmare and I’m envisioning the same here. Is there room and straight paths? The B8 was 1/4” extensions x3 and wobble sockets for 4/6 nuts…😂😂😂
Just pick up a b6 s4 , I just wanna say thank you so much RUclips doesn’t have a lot of technical info/data like this for these cars! Your channel is awesome! I’m hitting my cats next week this week I’m stuck doing valve cover gasket and seals and some radiator hoes and doing the SAI delete !
Hey thanks for making these b7 s4 videos. I got a project b7 s4 that needed chain work and these videos have helped a lot. Keep up the good work.
Amazing content as usual! I’m new to the B6 community and I have already picked up on a lot of knowledge from your content alone! Keep up the amazing work!
This is such excellent content man-you can convey some pretty complex subject matter clearly with zero hiccups! I don’t have any of these models (currently a 93’ UrS4) but plan on working more with the DAZA TFSI so a lot of these concepts will be applicable- Thanks!
Excellent job as always Steve!
Commenting for the algo. Love the 4.2 series bro 🙌🏾🙌🏾 super informative for my b6
Another great, informative video !
God dang it !!! We need to know where that 80hp is going ! We need it back and back now!
Like the story of every protagonist, I think the secret is that the power never left and has been there the whole time!
Great video, my B6 S4 has similar characteristics under rapid load changes. I will be dropping the motor in the winter to check out the inside of the cam phasors to get a better idea if the deviations are a sign of the infamous pitting. Or if its a combination of a oil supply issue/ tensioner problem.
Thanks for your content. Legend
Great video Steve! I daily a 2010 S5 4.2. I’m in BC. I randomly get p2198, p2196 and p2096, p2098. Replaced injectors not long ago. Hpfp in the last 50k kms as well as both upstream O2 sensors. I did not change the high pressure fuel rail sensor which I’ll be replacing soon. Both banks long term fuel trims are always around -6 to -9. Idling for long time they go to -17 at the most. These codes come once in a while. In about 2 weeks I’ll go oil cooler gaskets while there replacing high fuel pressure sensor and lpfp unit.
Granted, I haven't experimented with fuel trim vs. air/fuel issues much but those trim numbers you're referencing are a bit high and I wonder if your engine is being choked out a bit from getting enough air. Replace your air filter recently, or check the cleanliness of the air box/ducting? And take a peek all the way up into the MAF+filter screen. Somehow someway, you're missing air. The 02 sensors are a red herring - they're just reporting that less air is appearing than expected.
@@FigureItAudi thanks! Sorry I didn’t mention, brand new K&N filter. Airbox and ducting super clean. I did clean the MAF and tried another used unit, I also tried disconnected. All the same, for some reason bank one will be always a bit richer, let’s say B1 -16 and B2 -14. Again this only goes that high while idling for some time. I’m the next weeks I’ll be changing the fuel rail pressure sensor. I also want to mention, I’m not running OEM spark plugs, I’m running Denso IK20TT. I understand these ones shouldn’t be an issue. Were replaced about 50k kms ago along with coils.
I really like the Mario song at the end😂👌🏽
Great video thanks for the info.
Good stuff, thank you sir!
very good knowledge will you make more on vcds i love that of stuff
Kudos for the explanation overall. BUT one major thing that you have to always keep in mind. What you see under group 93, as -1 and +4 for Bank 1 and 2 doesn't always point to ware out. The reason is that those values depend straight on how the engine was timed. For example, I've changed chains on my VR6 last year and it was timed with -1 and +5 degrees. Should you know those and the acceptable difference you can see how far it goes, but in your case it's a straight on guess. Also, I doubt your figures are even close to a problem. VR6 min/max are -8 / +8 and I suspect that the V8 4.2 should be close to that range.
Thanks for adding; context is everything with these conversations and the more reference points we collect from people, the better.
Cant w8 for the next s4 video man. Upload soon i hope
Me too - the final 2 episodes are pretty much ready to go and will come out back to back over a week.
Hello, nice video :) Can you check in VCDS correction values for injectors in this engine? And do you know what data is presented in group 218,219? Please answer
WOW 🤯
Hello, regarding the questionable power output. I would buy at least 10 Hz GPS (chinese with usb for android phones were cheap with racelogic and dragy on other side) and try to measure 0-100 and 0-200 acceleration. these numbers are quite well known.
Hi, any news about s8 engine disassembly? I also have s8 d2 2000yr would like to see how rod bearings look like, cos those engines and from s6 c5 have really bad problem with bearings, in europe there is a lot of those engines blown or with rod bearing knock. Some people have already 2 engines blown, they say its oil pump fault, but probably also 5w30 oil instead of 5w40. Usually engine is blown by driving on highway and putting to much stress on the engine by overtaking the cars, and in Germany there is no speed limit on some of the roads. A lot of s8 and a8 engines lost its life out there.
Hey Piter - the engine will start sometime in the fall but I'll carefully document the condition of various bearings, cylinder and the valve train. I'm still not 100% set on what direction I want to go with the S8 in terms of power plant or power adder, either. It'll be a significant investment so I want to be sure I end up with a car that's really enjoyable and unique.
@@FigureItAudi if you're not be able to get rod bearings, Glyco and Kolbenshidt have them much cheaper. In case of scored alusil cylinder walls audi allows one repair oversize 0,1mm bigger, but I can't find oversized pistons. For pre facelift s8 they're available GR.1 in Etka but for facelift sadly there is no number and they don't fit from older model. Probably most important thing would be to look into the oil pump.
Both of my block 93 measurements are -7° and it is unable to keep block 91 and 92 at their spec. Bad news for me but I would assume that means is that is the max adjustment.
Thanks for adding a reference point! Are you able to add what your 91+92 specified and actual figures are as well? If or when you get around to doing a timing job, let us know what the key failure component was, too.
Can VCDS show when your cam and crankshaft are at TDC?
No - the critical thing you're missing is the piston position which can't be specifically determined by those other things. You have to use the age old queues like crank damper position, the crank lock pin hole, checking through the spark plug hole on cylinder 5 - the manual stuff.
I have same s4 and now it had p1340 and random misfires.. first cylinder 1 and now 5,6,7,8 where should i start looking? Coil packs? Spark plugs? Cam sensor? Appriciate if u help👍 i can send u some vcds pic for timing values
What are your cam adjustment values using the same approach as in the video? ...Do you know when the timing was last done on the car? By description of symptoms, this sounds like classic timing problems and it looks like it's getting worse.
@@FigureItAudi timing was done like 60.000km.. bank 1 dont give values in group 093 and group 091 it gives specific 0.0 and actual 27.0kw bank 2 is both 0.0🤔
When is the new Episode coming?
Hopefully soon :D. It's in the can already minus some bonus content that I want. In fact the next episode after that is already wrapping too. Can't rush creativity...or something.
wow that's a nice product my ? it work for any obd2 cars?😊
VCDS only supports certain VAG cars, like most Audi and VW's, and some Skoda and SEATs. If you have a different make, just google "[brand] obd2 scanner/reader" and you'll find either a specialized tool like VCDS, or a generic OBD2 tool.
How and where can i get vcds
Just go to www.ross-tech.com/ or someone that sells their authorized product (if it's not real, you can't register the device and you can't get support from Ross Tech).