I have a ton of them that I collected since I was a teenager and the ones that I don't have I usually find a NOS tube on eBay and there's also other websites that sell them as well.
The 7T10 came in several colors so they put a letter after the model number to indicate it as such. M was mahogany (Bakelite brown) , E was ebony (black ) and C was ivory. There is a Canadian model with octal only tubes and the USA version as well with a later revision with a mix of octal and Loktal tubes like yours. Nice work.
Thank you, yes you are right; some radios will even have something like “W” for wooden cabinets. I just don’t know why there is an “N” at the end of the model number. Perhaps you know, model 7T10M-N? I also thought it was unique to have both the octal and Loctal tubes, don’t recall ever seeing that before in radios.
@@kenslab1973 Some radios during the late 1940s did have a mix of octals and Loktals done by different manufacturers depending if they had the source. N might have been another version with a UL approved design chassis ( noted as UL5K1) so as if you removed the knobs you wouldn't get a nasty shock. There would be a very high value resistor in parallel with the 0.05 capacitor from B- to ground. The tuner would be isolated from ground and the tuner to antenna coil would have added a 0.05 uF capacitor between them. See the three notes below the Rider's schematic for it!
I remember very clearly looking at the diagram regarding the UL5K1 chassis and that feature wasn’t included in my radio chassis wiring. I had the 5K1 chassis only and not the UL5K1 one. I wanted to install a safety capacitor in place of the .05uF; I even had one on my work table and forgot that I had it at the ready. Hell getting older and losing your train of thought at times. Thanks for your insight, always appreciated.@@hestheMaster
Sorry, unfortunately the Nostalgia Air schematic for this Firestone radio model S-7398-5 doesn’t give me much on resistance values especially for any coils. All I have for the oscillator coil is the Firestone diagram #57, part number 500248, which is useless to us. Perhaps you can hopefully find something on a forum.
First of all, I am NOT an Electronics Tech but I have had an interest in it since early Childhood. Without the resources to buy replacement Solid State Electronics Boards, would it NOT be easier and more economical to repair the Older Vacuum Tube type Radios? I am sure there are Pros & Cons to both, the Tube type and Non-Tube types?
Not sure what you mean, since I can't pick up any radio signals where I live, I use my satellite radio and then transmit that source to whatever frequency I choose on all my radio repair and restorations. I usually play the OTR to keep me from violating any copyright protected material.
Yes, I like shorter videos myself and I did edit out about an hour of the filming. This video was intended for viewers that want to get into the radio hobby so I think there can never be T.M.I. for them. Thanks for watching!
This one has been well looked after Ken; case is excellent, backboard pristine for its age and an intact sticker on the base too. It was an easy one, probably would have worked first up even with the leaky caps Did you use an isolation transformer to power it, given its a hot chassis? Oh yeah, it is a real shit when you stick your finger through the cone Well done, great video
Yes, I always use an isolation transformer, I do bypass the DBT only when aligning. Yeah, usually all AA5's and AA6 are easy to service unless you have the slug type IF's and have to repair the dreaded mica disease.
Nice working in old radios, when you can get tubes.
I have a ton of them that I collected since I was a teenager and the ones that I don't have I usually find a NOS tube on eBay and there's also other websites that sell them as well.
@@kenslab1973 Here, in Europe, they are quite expensive, more than the radio itself.
Especially those from 40's and before.
@@kenslab1973 Manny times, they will strip the radio for tubes, and other parts.
@@MrGigi-dz9cv Same here in the States, supply and demand with the older rare radio and TV tubes.
좋습니다.. ~~!!
이것이 제독 라디오 비디오인데 왜 TV를 언급했는지 잘 모르겠습니다. 시청해 주셔서 감사합니다.
The 7T10 came in several colors so they put a letter after the model number to indicate it as such. M was mahogany
(Bakelite brown) , E was ebony (black ) and C was ivory. There is a Canadian model with octal only tubes and the USA
version as well with a later revision with a mix of octal and Loktal tubes like yours. Nice work.
Thank you, yes you are right; some radios will even have something like “W” for wooden cabinets. I just don’t know why there is an “N” at the end of the model number. Perhaps you know, model 7T10M-N? I also thought it was unique to have both the octal and Loctal tubes, don’t recall ever seeing that before in radios.
@@kenslab1973 Some radios during the late 1940s did have a mix of octals and Loktals done by different manufacturers depending if they had the source. N might have been another version with a UL approved design chassis ( noted as UL5K1) so as if you removed the knobs you wouldn't get a nasty shock. There would be a very high value resistor in parallel with the 0.05 capacitor from B- to ground. The tuner would be isolated from ground and the tuner to antenna coil would have added a 0.05 uF capacitor between them. See the three notes below the Rider's schematic for it!
I remember very clearly looking at the diagram regarding the UL5K1 chassis and that feature wasn’t included in my radio chassis wiring. I had the 5K1 chassis only and not the UL5K1 one. I wanted to install a safety capacitor in place of the .05uF; I even had one on my work table and forgot that I had it at the ready. Hell getting older and losing your train of thought at times. Thanks for your insight, always appreciated.@@hestheMaster
That Thing Would Make Good
Vintige Bluetooth Speaker
Mine needs a oscillator coil.. any data on it would help...
Sorry, unfortunately the Nostalgia Air schematic for this Firestone radio model S-7398-5 doesn’t give me much on resistance values especially for any coils. All I have for the oscillator coil is the Firestone diagram #57, part number 500248, which is useless to us. Perhaps you can hopefully find something on a forum.
First of all, I am NOT an Electronics Tech but I have had an interest in it since early Childhood.
Without the resources to buy replacement Solid State Electronics Boards, would it NOT be easier and more economical to repair the Older Vacuum Tube type Radios?
I am sure there are Pros & Cons to both, the Tube type and Non-Tube types?
I Used To Tell Radio TV Phono Nut That Old Stuff Ain't Worth Fixing
Did that old radio have an old radio tune from the 40s ?
Not sure what you mean, since I can't pick up any radio signals where I live, I use my satellite radio and then transmit that source to whatever frequency I choose on all my radio repair and restorations. I usually play the OTR to keep me from violating any copyright protected material.
@@kenslab1973 hmm 🤔
T.M.I. and to long of a video for what was done.
Yes, I like shorter videos myself and I did edit out about an hour of the filming. This video was intended for viewers that want to get into the radio hobby so I think there can never be T.M.I. for them. Thanks for watching!
I didn't find it to be too long nor did I mind the information.
This one has been well looked after Ken; case is excellent, backboard pristine for its age and an intact sticker on the base too.
It was an easy one, probably would have worked first up even with the leaky caps
Did you use an isolation transformer to power it, given its a hot chassis?
Oh yeah, it is a real shit when you stick your finger through the cone
Well done, great video
Yes, I always use an isolation transformer, I do bypass the DBT only when aligning. Yeah, usually all AA5's and AA6 are easy to service unless you have the slug type IF's and have to repair the dreaded mica disease.