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It’s fine. The camera doesn’t do the actual quality of the picture any justice, and the old VCR is what it is.

Thanks, Frank

Thanks, Michael, for your informative comment, always great to get them from my viewers. I replaced all film capacitors and resistors that were out of tolerance, shown in this part 1 video. The selenium rectifier being old had very high resistance and was causing the 45% drop in the B+ voltage. Were on the same page here and by replacing the 19V8 first audio tube, that corrected the distorted sound issue after the radio got to operating temperatures. So, the plate from the first audio tube was causing the voltage variation to the control grid of the output tube. Can’t depend on tube testers at times where they respond differently under a real load. All the best.

@@kenslab1973 Selenium rectifiers do degrade with age, and they should be replaced with silicon types. You may need to add 47 to 100 ohms in series with the silicon diode to match the normal series resistance of the selenium rectifier and keep the B+ voltage from getting too high. Use a flameproof or fusible resistor, because if the silicon diode, or anything else in the circuit, shorts, this resistor will be the fuse to protect from further damage or even fire. The first audio tube itself will not cause the output tube to draw too much current; how much current this tube draws is determined by the voltage on its control grid relative to its cathode. With most radio output tubes (such as 35B5, 35C5, 50B5, 50C5, 35L6GT, 50L6GT), the cathode bias resistor is usually 150 ohms and drops about 7.5 volts, making that cathode 7.5 V positive relative to 0V circuit common. The control grid is biased at 0 volts by a large value grid resistor, usually 470K ohms, also connected to 0v common. If the output tube grid is more than one half volt positive, the coupling capacitor from the plate of the first audio tube is leaky, the grid resistor is open or very high in value, or, especially if the current climbs and the sound degrades with time after the radio has been on for a while, the grid of the output tube is contaminated with some of the cathode emissive coating material and is trying to become like the cathode. As this happens, the output tube plate may start to glow red. Obviously, the tube is bad and must be immediately replaced.

Perhaps, you would have to post your email address to discuss the specifics. Thank you for your confidence in me.

I don’t exactly know what you’re referring to; if it’s the 3D woman character, I always like to add something different in my videos from time to time. Thanks for your comment.

Thanks for the request; I plan on doing some more TVs in the future but their hard to come by, especially when I prefer them to be color TV’s and in non-working condition.

Thanks Steve, I did use the Rider’s schematic and all E-Caps connections were spot on as you mentioned. The green negative wire was wired to all E-Caps internally when I re-stuffed it. I agree about the mistakes made on circuit diagrams, I have found mistakes on Rider’s and even the actual PhotoFact’s over the years to include alignment instruction. It’s always nice to get heads up on possible issues. God only knows how many mistakes I made myself.

@@kenslab1973 Ï HAVE 300 BELLY BUTTONS

Thanks for watching!

Thank You!

Thanks so much Frank, I ran into a few speed bumps along the way, but I kept plugging away at it.

Jose, I purchased my radio stand about 12 years ago and have no idea how much it cost me back then. I got the small one, here’s the web address. www.radiostands.com

Thanks Frank :)

Thanks for watching and your comment.

Thanks Frank!

Thank You!

Glad you like the radios, Thanks for watching and the reply.

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@@migsvensurfing6310 Thanks, I get it now

Good question Frank, I'm not really sure about the exact function, I think I mentioned that perhaps it could be for EMI noise, but it also could be to filter out high frequency noise just like a previous video I did where the positive end of a 2uF electrolytic capacitor goes to ground.

@@kenslab1973 Thanks Ken. Always good to see odd ball stuff like that

I concur. Thanks for watching and your comment.

Thanks Frank, I love it when I actually remember where the band selector is at times. lol

Thanks, I really like the clicker type remotes, pretty expensive even back in those days; I’m guessing, with the receiver, motor, gears, gear case, and relays.

@@kenslab1973 Yes it has certainly been a luxury addition.

ps: I think your chair needs oiling lol

Thanks Frank, I knew I had a chance when the TV produced a raster, I’ll work on that noisy drum throne.

I really didn’t check the flyback final anode voltage since I did have a raster. If that’s the case it would be near impossible to find a flyback or even an equivalent one to replace it with. Anytime there’s a defective flyback or a deflection yoke where it’s not a simple fix, the TV is un-repairable to me. Thanks for your input.

Perhaps, but I think the vertical, horizontal power transformer/flyback and the deflection yoke are all original, although the flyback and yoke passed the ringer tests I’m thinking that there still could be the possibility that one of them respond differently under load and even after a spot on voltage tests prior to installing the chassis back in the cabinet. I need to purchase a ringer that will test said items in circuit under load. I’ve never seen a picture tube go completely dead as far as degraded/deteriorated phosphor. Years ago I’ve only read about such things and I think it’s possible. I’ll try you idea with the phosphorus clock or watch for that matter. The TV is still on the back burner in the event I do acquire a dedicated in circuit ringer tester. I disagree about this TV being low hour set though. Thanks for watching and your input.

Yeah Frank, I show my mistakes to also show that I’m only human; viewers hopefully learn from them. I still can’t download on Nostalgia; I don’t know if it’s here in the States or my antivirus protection changed, I’m thinking the latter.

@@kenslab1973 Ken, I just used my VPN to connect to the net via the USA and was able to download a schematic. Try turning off your anti virus and see if that resolves the issue

Thanks Frank, I didn’t check the pin-out on these checker pieces but obviously all three had the same filament pins. I thought I was going to get a copyright strike for the commercial; I had to steal this great idea from you.

@@kenslab1973 Not a problem Ken, the more entertainment we can provide the better. I don't think YT cares about old ads, just copyrighted music. Keep up the good work :)

GE never was known for quality.

Yep, spare dud picture tube also, I don't have one with the smaller pins.

My uncle would buy nothing but GE when I was a kid. God only knows why.

Every GE I find works. That's something.

Thanks!

I'm trying Frank. :)

Various manufacturers, I get my capacitors and resistors from just radios in Canada. Everything is coming from Asia, perhaps mostly China today. They specialize in capacitors and resistors for vintage tube radios and electronics. I’ve purchased from just radios for many years and yet had a bad one or one to go bad. Not sure about how old their capacitors are but shelf-time is not a big problem for caps as it was in the past, and the construction is certainly way better than anything that was used when your radio was made. I have capacitors that are 20 years plus old and their all fine today. We all like to get electrolytic caps with the most hour rating but even low 5000-hour caps (not saying mine are) will last 1250 days if you played your radio 4 hours a day and I think they will even exceed that 5000-hour rating. Enjoy your restoration!

I was curious of the values. Curious, if I have a used radio - would you just focus on replacing the caps, or would you replace the tubes as well? Unsure if it is worth all the expense. The AM portion has lost its sensitivity and requires more than normal volume to be turned up. FM works great.

No, never replace all the valves but you do need to have a way to check the valves since they can be bad as far as a weak tube, a grid leakage etc. For example, your AM issue could have a bad 12BE6 AM converter tube, check the 19T8 AM discriminator also. The tuning capacitor for the AM band will cause low reception if it’s dirty, clean it with contact cleaner, fully opened then while closing it keep spraying it with the cleaner. The FM has a permeability tuner so leave that one alone. The AM might need a full alignment to include the IF transformers A1 through A4 then the antenna and oscillator adjustments on the AM tuning capacitor to include the 600kH coil adjustment on top of the chassis. You should have the alignment instructions to do this alignment correctly. If you haven’t recapped this radio you need to do that first before you proceed with the above instructions. Change the electrolytic caps and all the wax capacitors, leave the mica’s along, also any resistors that are out of tolerance. @@thetube577

Lubricate the RF gain potentiometer with contact cleaner spray. The band switch contacts might be dirty or corroded. This can affect AM reception. Try cleaning the band switch contacts using contact cleaner spray. Capacitors and Transistors in Zenith radios from that era generally have good capacitors. However, if the radio was stored in a damp environment, the capacitors could become leaky, affecting volume. Try removing and reinserting the socket transistors, clean the pins and use the red deoxIT on the sockets. Might be the oscillator transistor. One easy way to check that your LO is working is to place another radio next to your TO, with the dial at a blank spot near the top of the dial. Then put the TO on the AM/BC band and tune around between 1100 and 1200 KHz. If you hear the noise level drop significantly on the other radio, your LO is working. If you’re hear nothing on the AM band except when the BFO (Beat Frequency Oscillator) is on, it suggests that the IF (Intermediate Frequency) string is working. However, either the RF amplifier or, more likely, the LO (Local Oscillator) is not functioning. The oscillator transistor could also be defective. The FM RF and oscillator transistors are the same, number 121-687, I think. Swap them and the AM should work, and FM will not work. The oscillator transistor might be bad. Good luck!

Thanks so much for the response...Looks like I have some work to do. I'm new at this but will take it slow.@@kenslab1973

Daniel, It’s been a while since I did this restoration and I do remember the 47K resistor. I don’t think I changed or remember changing the 2nd IF caps but C39 and C40, I believe both of them are to be 100pF each. The schematic does show the caps but no values as you know, also make sure you have the Riders Volume 17 - Changes 17-9 Hope that helps.

@@kenslab1973I have the 1709 changes. Thanks

Thanks Frank, the small 60-watt bulb is good for the AA5’s but I might have to go up to a 75-watt bulb. I always check the watts and amperes during and after my repairs. The height of the camera/tripod needs to be moved up and closer as well as my lighting to adjust for the new bright ceiling lights. I'm finding some bugs in the new lab as I'm using it. :(

@@kenslab1973 You'll sort out the production problems for sure Ken. I use a 150watt globe only cos that was all I had at the time. It doesn't show the initial power surge or low wattage consumption but it does show those pesky shorts from caps or trannie windings etc. Keep it up :)

Thanks for the suggestion, I’ve pondered on the frame antenna idea years ago and there are certainly a tons of DIY videos on RUclips regarding that. Perhaps I will in the future but ever since I got a decent satellite radio, I gave up on the frame antenna idea for now. I like having the option of listening to various news stations 24/7, various music genres and OTR stations instead of what the limited radio stations has to offer, also I can listen to stations globally with the satellite radio. The closest radio broadcast station near me is close to 40 miles away, if you call that near me and with the mountains surrounding me, the antenna could definitely help but I think it would still be a challenge even with the best well-built frame antenna. Thanks for watching my channel.

Thanks for your concern; you are correct about the quality of this video. After going from a lower table to an actual 36” height work bench, I’ve been trying to adjust my camera/tripod to correspond with the extra bench height. That will hopefully be improved in my upcoming videos as well as better lighting since I installed ceiling lights and now using the side and over the top work bench lights, I have to work on preventing over lighting. Thank you for watching.