FYI: This process is different if using "MOST" brands of aftermarket factory replacement engine mounts. Most of them are already mounted in that metal sleeve. It's mainly with polyurethane mounts that you will have to drill out the original mounts to reuse the metal.
I would have sworn I've bought the whole assembly all together already and never drilled them out but they were just direct replacements and not polyurethane mounts so nice job
88-98 k1500 4x4 is a little easier but that size 15 ratcheting swivel wrench does help out a lot I did one side without it took me about 3 hours other side took maybe 1 hour with swivel ratcheting wrench what I did was I removed 2 bolts on transmission mount first then remove that long bolt that hooks up the engine mount to engine once I removed that I lifted the engine and transmission with a jack and thick plywood under the oil pan and flywheel housing like 3 inches the you have enough room to remove the 3 screws holding the mount to the frame it's not a easy job but its possible for a DIY person.
The reason those mounts are designed that way and why they are such a pita to change is back in '71 GM was forced to recall 6.7 million vehicles due to a rash of broken motor mounts that stretched way back into the 60's. The mounts would separate letting the engine raise up jamming the throttle and in many cases pulling the vacuum brake hose loose killing the power brakes and creating a major safety hazard. As result of the costly recall engineers were told to redesign it and make it bulletproof. This over designed mount is the result, this redesign is overkill but no matter how worn, cracked or loose it may get it can never separate and let the engine come up off the frame and become a safety hazard. The mount is extremely well engineered from a function standpoint, but the downside is its a real pita to change in a complete car. I had a '66 Impala that had the problem, they even tried issueing what they called "safety mounts" that were the same original design but with metal tabs that stopped torque from pulling the mounts loose, but eventually the torque just bent the tabs and you again had a stock mount. These mounts are indeed impossible to pull loose from the frame if installed correctly with good hardware. Ah the good old days. Heres a link to the NYT story on it. > www.nytimes.com/1971/12/05/archives/67-million-cars-face-gm-recall-but-company-denies-safety-defect-in.html
Just realized this problem yesterday when i went to replace mine! I might try to work a breaker bar in there before shelling out for one of those wrenches though
Thank you for clear speaking and concise instructions. I am taking out the 6.5 diesel out a 97 Silverado 2500. These engine mounts are a challenge. The pass side is a breeze, but the other side has the front diffential in the way. Coming off.!!!! Wish me luck. I will let you know how it goes.
The engine mounts on my 94 Astro were a complete PIA a few years ago too. Had to figure out the "secret access holes" to get a socket or wrench into. I didn't do any drilling, just replaced the whole thing. Even though the ACDelco mounts are a lot more money than the AutoZone mounts $10 versus $40 and both are made in China; there is no comparison when comparing them side by side as to the better quality of the GM mounts. Luckily the transmission mount isn't hard. Good luck!
There's a method do drilling and not breaking bits or boogering holes: when you feel the bit is about to make its way through the back side, ease up on the pressure and increase the speed and let it cut the thin material remaining. Else, it breaks through rather than cuts through, and bites. That's when the damage is done
Just use a step bit to cut the head, flap disk to smooth it down, take 4 bolts to compress the unit and tac weld the rivet holes. That is how I did mine.
Grasias amigo I changed in my chevy 94 v8 believe me amigo almost I cry 6 hours trying especially the nuts inside I'm a welder so I cut a round bar 2 pieces and I welding to a 🔧 I bender like 15 degrees angle next time not crying again I see your video so I'm ready for next time long life to you amigo and thanks.
Use a 1/4 9/16 or ect socket attached to a swivel works wonders. Also have used a wobble extention in series. Tape can help the bolt / nut stay in and even taping the swivel can limit it's movement. I never had to much an issue doing this method.
I put the energy suspension poly mounts in my square body suburban. They fit inside the clam shell snug, no play at all. Its been 11 years and they are still tight.
Fyi I just did my k1500 and it's a pain I had to remove the front differential to do the driver's side motor mount... now I'm going to rebuild my front differential while it's off the truck
Quick question. Do you have to remove the engine in order to remove the mounts? Or can you just do one at a time with a floor jack supporting the engine?
So I feel like this video should also be tagged on why mechanics hate engineers. Lol it seriously looked like they thought no one would ever change them. Good video!
Yeah basically the same as changing these on a Chevy S10 the nuts for the bolts are in the inside of the frame and man is that a pain in ass had to remove the hole lower control arm and coil spring on my 85 s10 to change mine ha gezz what a job
I put my bolts up threw the bottom. For me it was easier then trying to snake the nut up in there ...I also put my tabs reversed on one side and so now I'm finding myself taking one side back out. Fml.. wish holley would have had instructions with there's .. smh
You should get a bit more viscous lubricator for stuff like that, just saying. WD is nice, but it evaporates entirely too quickly to be of any use. Won't recommend any, i still use way oil i have in "stock" from eons ago.
I been working in the oil patch for some 10 years and driving trucks for over 20 years and in the shops next to the drill press we keep a can of transmission fluid, not only it helps keeping things cool it a cutting agent as well. Try that next time. spread the word cause every mechanics video i watch they all use oil or like in your case WD-40. I like your old school videos. Rite ON
When I removed the th400 trans in my 82 Chevy G30 HiCube van 350 engine... the rear of my engine dropped down to about a 30 degree angle... How in the Hell can that happen ? I don't see any cracks or anything in my Motor Mounts... but, I just got a new set of them today and I am not looking forward to doing this job !
Eric, I am trying to remove the mm bolts from a 2001 4.3 2WD S10. How do those come out?? I jacked the tranny up slightly and of course there is no room in there. SUGGESTIONS? Thank you for the video!
Eric...I'm wondering why u need to take the old clam shell apart, when u can purchase the complete engine mounts with the inner rubber turtle seal already intact, just saying
I’d love your help on how to get the clam that bolts to the engine on? My engine installer missed the bolts on the driver side of my 1987 suburban (4x4) I beat my nuckles up trying to get a bolt in and then no wrench I have will tighten due to space, the mount that is to the frame is bolted great. Thoughts? And what size bolt goes in a sbc 350 block to hold the mount?
So I know this video 4 year old, I hope you reply. I have a trans am which I’m putting a ls in at the moment and I need to know will any engine mount work with these clam shell mounts. (. Ie: if I get the dingo slide engine mounts will they work with the original clam shell mounts)??
01 Pontiac Grand Prix. What is a decent motor mount that won't break the bank? Everybody on the internet is saying that anchor and DEA are junk. I am not looking to spend $80 at the general motors dealership. I am not real hard on my car will a anchor or DEA Mount be good enough for me?
Good question, I'm curious about that too. The crazy thing is when I looked at the expensive Genuine GM replacement mounts on Amazon...it said they are made in China. WTF 🙄
@@cj8172 I know they are and they want almost $100 for it I just bought an anchor for now I don't drive the car too much haven't put it on yet though might do it today.
ERIC I need your help. 1980 f 350 6.6. Sunday i drove it and it ran like normal. Monday morning I go to start it and it won't start. Would occasionally backfire but that's it. Has basically the entire ignition system replaced as I fix it up. New coil and ignition module once it wouldn't start. Even has a new ignition switch. Still wont start but I know its getting fuel just no spark. Any suggestions?
The k1500 have a different frame the passenger side motor mount is easy to remove but the drivers side is a pain you got to remove the front differential it's easy btw
Certain motor mounts unlike the ones showed by Eric were not captured. We used to use chain to keep the engine from ripping loose in the engine bay when a mount would break.
Step Drill works faster and it's only center holes . Yes Those Tabs placements are very important. What's on my mind is where you got the inserts I paid $75 for a pair . They were to big for clam shell . we searched out speed shop catalogs I know of two types of GM clam shells mounts for 80s trucks your type and stepped type . looks like their a 3rd and 4th for big blocks.. How many when .putting a big block in 80s small block 4x4 Craddel.. change out the perch's shells bolt to..
Pity the tube parts of the rivited holes could not be left on the plate. No cable ties needed, just compression via bolts. I've always liked locator pins, simple :-D
I have an AC question I replaced the Schrader valve did everything proper with the gauges and all that Vac the system now my AC system won’t except more than 2 ounces and I am overcharged on the gauge and won’t draw anymore any more r134 a in Compressor is engaging and disengaging wtf no cold air
"Align the 5/8" tab with the bolt holes", but there are bolt holes on both ends. So it's really more critical to know if that long tab aligns "front" or "up" or in some orientation so the mounts are in symmetry for the engine.
I've been on the same search after I found the crate engine for my K5 doesn't include them. I did see a set posted on Craigslist over $100. But, found them new online at LMC truck. I'll post again if they work. Hit the junkyards if you have more time than money...
I got a 92 Sierra and I guess previous owner didn’t want to mess with taking off the lower arms or just didn’t know how they went back in so we welded the mounts on. 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Just went through all this last year on my 1995 Sierra, and it SUCKED. But my mounts were way worse than yours, so it had to be done. I ended up using a serpentine belt tool with a crow's foot on the end to hold the nuts while turning the bolts from the top. And of course I dropped a couple of nuts somewhere in the frame... UGH
I was just looking at them on Amazon and they are the most expensive but also it says they are made in China. China, great...that's the same place the crap mounts are made.
Hey there Eric i wanted to say how i love these update videos on dad's truck and think the project is coming together well. This sort of thing brings back a memory i had in high school where our club got 1987 Ford Mustang and it was in ruff shape. That being said we replaced almost everything on that car and entered it into a school rival compensation. When the day came the other school couldn't even use or start up their project car and we won by default. Here's a picture of the end results. i.imgur.com/xNRkYUx.png
@@rattle-can-resto5893 does it require a long swivel wrench like the one in this video. Guess what I'm trying to ask, Does it have bolt on the back side that are inside the K-member and hard to get to?
What does it look like when the rubber is pulled off? I really want to see what the metal piece encapsulated in rubber looks like. Maybe the rubber can be shed using a wood chisel and your hydraulic press. An Arbor press might be better. I don't go camping anymore or I would take one and throw it in the campfire. Don't picture my campsite as being inside of a pine forest. My campsites mostly are in the desert where you would be lucky to see anyone else in a couple days. I live in an upditty neighborhood and I think the neighbors wouldn't take too kindly me lighting one of these on fire even for a YT video. Believe me in my younger days I might of LoL No YT then. Oh BTW drill through the Head of a rivet not the Tail. Give it a try. I know, I know the hole was not important but it's good discipline to do it right. I have drilled out so m any rivets in aircraft where I couldn't leave a trace a rivet was ever removed. I'm subscribed, thumbs up all your videos. You have a great channel, I've learned a lot. You have saved me time in removing these engine mounts off the frame. I have done many but not from this frame. They usually are a pain anyways laying on my back.
Actually you can replace the mountains with the engine in the truck. You just have to jack the engine up off the mounts and use a brace across the fenders to support the engine and you take replace the mounts that way. The mounts on my 1996 Yukon are shot and that's what I'll be doing when I get time. Haven't decided of I'm removing the LCAs yet or sneaking in behind the arms. Either way, it's going to be a pain. More so that the mounts on my Cherokee where.
@@cj8172 Yeah haven't driven it much but so far so good. They were identical to the originals, and the rest of the project was big bucks so.. If you aren't on a budget I would definitely recommend going with better quality. I had to replace all the welsh plugs, rebuilt the trans, a ton of other nightmare jobs..lol
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FYI: This process is different if using "MOST" brands of aftermarket factory replacement engine mounts. Most of them are already mounted in that metal sleeve. It's mainly with polyurethane mounts that you will have to drill out the original mounts to reuse the metal.
I would have sworn I've bought the whole assembly all together already and never drilled them out but they were just direct replacements and not polyurethane mounts so nice job
"Start by reading the instructions" ...what you talkin' bout Willis? :)
Good info as always, thanks for sharing,
Cheers
definitely one of top favorite youtube professional mechanics that I trust to give top notch advice and instruction. I'm subscribed.
Real mechanics never read the manual. Attempt first, then humble yourself later. Good Vid Eric.
Manuals are written by technical writers that are unfamiliar with mechanics in general.
True AF 🤣 Asking a man to read instructions is like asking grandpa to stop and ask for directions!! Haha
88-98 k1500 4x4 is a little easier but that size 15 ratcheting swivel wrench does help out a lot I did one side without it took me about 3 hours other side took maybe 1 hour with swivel ratcheting wrench what I did was I removed 2 bolts on transmission mount first then remove that long bolt that hooks up the engine mount to engine once I removed that I lifted the engine and transmission with a jack and thick plywood under the oil pan and flywheel housing like 3 inches the you have enough room to remove the 3 screws holding the mount to the frame it's not a easy job but its possible for a DIY person.
The reason those mounts are designed that way and why they are such a pita to change is back in '71 GM was forced to recall 6.7 million vehicles due to a rash of broken motor mounts that stretched way back into the 60's. The mounts would separate letting the engine raise up jamming the throttle and in many cases pulling the vacuum brake hose loose killing the power brakes and creating a major safety hazard. As result of the costly recall engineers were told to redesign it and make it bulletproof. This over designed mount is the result, this redesign is overkill but no matter how worn, cracked or loose it may get it can never separate and let the engine come up off the frame and become a safety hazard. The mount is extremely well engineered from a function standpoint, but the downside is its a real pita to change in a complete car. I had a '66 Impala that had the problem, they even tried issueing what they called "safety mounts" that were the same original design but with metal tabs that stopped torque from pulling the mounts loose, but eventually the torque just bent the tabs and you again had a stock mount. These mounts are indeed impossible to pull loose from the frame if installed correctly with good hardware. Ah the good old days. Heres a link to the NYT story on it. >
www.nytimes.com/1971/12/05/archives/67-million-cars-face-gm-recall-but-company-denies-safety-defect-in.html
Just realized this problem yesterday when i went to replace mine! I might try to work a breaker bar in there before shelling out for one of those wrenches though
Thank you for clear speaking and concise instructions. I am taking out the 6.5 diesel out a 97 Silverado 2500. These engine mounts are a challenge. The pass side is a breeze, but the other side has the front diffential in the way. Coming off.!!!! Wish me luck. I will let you know how it goes.
The engine mounts on my 94 Astro were a complete PIA a few years ago too. Had to figure out the "secret access holes" to get a socket or wrench into. I didn't do any drilling, just replaced the whole thing. Even though the ACDelco mounts are a lot more money than the AutoZone mounts $10 versus $40 and both are made in China; there is no comparison when comparing them side by side as to the better quality of the GM mounts. Luckily the transmission mount isn't hard. Good luck!
There's a method do drilling and not breaking bits or boogering holes: when you feel the bit is about to make its way through the back side, ease up on the pressure and increase the speed and let it cut the thin material remaining. Else, it breaks through rather than cuts through, and bites. That's when the damage is done
Just use a step bit to cut the head, flap disk to smooth it down, take 4 bolts to compress the unit and tac weld the rivet holes. That is how I did mine.
Grasias amigo I changed in my chevy 94 v8 believe me amigo almost I cry 6 hours trying especially the nuts inside I'm a welder so I cut a round bar 2 pieces and I welding to a 🔧 I bender like 15 degrees angle next time not crying again I see your video so I'm ready for next time long life to you amigo and thanks.
Use a 1/4 9/16 or ect socket attached to a swivel works wonders. Also have used a wobble extention in series. Tape can help the bolt / nut stay in and even taping the swivel can limit it's movement. I never had to much an issue doing this method.
I put the energy suspension poly mounts in my square body suburban. They fit inside the clam shell snug, no play at all. Its been 11 years and they are still tight.
awesome drill and 60 degree chamfer in one tool. got the one i have at auto zone. look like grade crapy titanium nitride but its held up.
The k models, also known as the 4 X 4's have no obstruction in the way of the motor mount bolts. Just FYI.
So the k models are a lot easier? You don't need the tool?
Fyi I just did my k1500 and it's a pain I had to remove the front differential to do the driver's side motor mount... now I'm going to rebuild my front differential while it's off the truck
@@miguelplascencia1798 he is referring to 73-87 Square body Ks. I just did mine on an 1982 k10.
@@miguelplascencia1798 how is it a pain? Any tips? Just took my LCA's off.
That's exactly how I did it 13 years ago with my truck. Same type of wrench.
I see you Eric. Keep the videos coming brother. I hope all is well. 😊
Why did you go back with the poly instead of the rubber mounts? What’s the advantage or disadvantage…great videos
Quick question. Do you have to remove the engine in order to remove the mounts? Or can you just do one at a time with a floor jack supporting the engine?
floor jack upwards..yes. 1 side at a time (only)
So I feel like this video should also be tagged on why mechanics hate engineers. Lol it seriously looked like they thought no one would ever change them. Good video!
Yeah basically the same as changing these on a Chevy S10 the nuts for the bolts are in the inside of the frame and man is that a pain in ass had to remove the hole lower control arm and coil spring on my 85 s10 to change mine ha gezz what a job
Like the new thumbnail design
Eric . Make a Tshirt with "STAY DIRTY " on it .
And nother one with black and white burned fairmont on it . Lol
I put my bolts up threw the bottom. For me it was easier then trying to snake the nut up in there ...I also put my tabs reversed on one side and so now I'm finding myself taking one side back out. Fml.. wish holley would have had instructions with there's .. smh
You should get a bit more viscous lubricator for stuff like that, just saying. WD is nice, but it evaporates entirely too quickly to be of any use. Won't recommend any, i still use way oil i have in "stock" from eons ago.
Good cutting oil beats wd40 on steel any day. Just don't use it on aluminum.
I been working in the oil patch for some 10 years and driving trucks for over 20 years and in the shops next to the drill press we keep a can of transmission fluid, not only it helps keeping things cool it a cutting agent as well. Try that next time. spread the word cause every mechanics video i watch they all use oil or like in your case WD-40. I like your old school videos. Rite ON
When I removed the th400 trans in my 82 Chevy G30 HiCube van 350 engine... the rear of my engine dropped down to about a 30 degree angle... How in the Hell can that happen ?
I don't see any cracks or anything in my Motor Mounts... but, I just got a new set of them today and I am not looking forward to doing this job !
Hi, what brand did you get? I'm looking for some good ones for my truck too. I ain't looking forward to the job either 😣
Eric, What Brand was the Engines Mounts and where did you buy them?? May 2022 now! Forget that, I saw after the link you provided. 👍👍
Commenting to show that support
A lock washer on the both sides of a bolt can save tons of effort in squirrelling wrenches into tight corners
Have you done a video on a 2010 grand marquis for the engine mounts
Eric, I am trying to remove the mm bolts from a 2001 4.3 2WD S10. How do those come out?? I jacked the tranny up slightly and of course there is no room in there. SUGGESTIONS? Thank you for the video!
Eric...I'm wondering why u need to take the old clam shell apart, when u can purchase the complete engine mounts with the inner rubber turtle seal already intact, just saying
Yeah there a pain! Same way on my s10 but I just cut a little hole in the frame and got my wrench on there and called it a day lol
Never envied the bs that mechanics gotta go though. Labor of love bro. Nice shot of the fairmont
I’d love your help on how to get the clam that bolts to the engine on?
My engine installer missed the bolts on the driver side of my 1987 suburban (4x4) I beat my nuckles up trying to get a bolt in and then no wrench I have will tighten due to space, the mount that is to the frame is bolted great.
Thoughts? And what size bolt goes in a sbc 350 block to hold the mount?
Good video. I was tellin a friend that it would be a pain to change his mounts on his 90 caprice.
You're awesome dude. Everytime
I used a distributor wrench that I heated and bent just a little bit to get the angle on when doing them on my 71 Camaro.
So I know this video 4 year old, I hope you reply. I have a trans am which I’m putting a ls in at the moment and I need to know will any engine mount work with these clam shell mounts. (. Ie: if I get the dingo slide engine mounts will they work with the original clam shell mounts)??
I used a 3/8 breaker bar and a 3/8 air wrench. I couldn't imagine hand wrenching it.
Can you post a video how to replace engine mounts for 2001 Toyota RAV4. Please
01 Pontiac Grand Prix.
What is a decent motor mount that won't break the bank?
Everybody on the internet is saying that anchor and DEA are junk.
I am not looking to spend $80 at the general motors dealership.
I am not real hard on my car will a anchor or DEA Mount be good enough for me?
Good question, I'm curious about that too. The crazy thing is when I looked at the expensive Genuine GM replacement mounts on Amazon...it said they are made in China. WTF 🙄
@@cj8172 I know they are and they want almost $100 for it I just bought an anchor for now I don't drive the car too much haven't put it on yet though might do it today.
How long are those bolts securing the engine mounts?
I am having a problem with my motor mounts and idk if there are backwards or what because my brackets do not line up with the mounting holes
Any added vibration with these poly mounts?
Dang, my new mount came as the entire metal bit. Thank god.
ERIC I need your help. 1980 f 350 6.6. Sunday i drove it and it ran like normal. Monday morning I go to start it and it won't start. Would occasionally backfire but that's it. Has basically the entire ignition system replaced as I fix it up. New coil and ignition module once it wouldn't start. Even has a new ignition switch. Still wont start but I know its getting fuel just no spark. Any suggestions?
The k1500 have a different frame the passenger side motor mount is easy to remove but the drivers side is a pain you got to remove the front differential it's easy btw
☆☆☆☆ good work Eric!.
Thanks.
For bad engine mounts I thought standard practice is to chain the engine to the frame with about 1-1/2” of slack.
Certain motor mounts unlike the ones showed by Eric were not captured. We used to use chain to keep the engine from ripping loose in the engine bay when a mount would break.
Awesome tips.
Can you please tell me the belt rotation for a 1985 Chevy 5.7L v6
Great video. Question, what type of software do you use to record? Smartphone? I want to start a a RUclips channel. Thnks.
Good man
I used the inserts and my engine/drivetrain now has a clunk. I'm removing them and going with ones that are already together.
Step Drill works faster and it's only center holes . Yes Those Tabs placements are very important.
What's on my mind is where you got the inserts I paid $75 for a pair .
They were to big for clam shell . we searched out speed shop catalogs I know of two types of GM clam shells mounts for 80s trucks your type and stepped type . looks like their a 3rd and 4th for big blocks.. How many when .putting a big block in 80s small block 4x4 Craddel.. change out the perch's shells bolt to..
Thank you so much
Pity the tube parts of the rivited holes could not be left on the plate.
No cable ties needed, just compression via bolts.
I've always liked locator pins, simple :-D
That they are... same thing here, but it is just another step in the process line that lessens the chance of making mistakes.
Leave it to GM to do things the cheap way.
I have an AC question I replaced the Schrader valve did everything proper with the gauges and all that Vac the system now my AC system won’t except more than 2 ounces and I am overcharged on the gauge and won’t draw anymore any more r134 a in Compressor is engaging and disengaging wtf no cold air
"Align the 5/8" tab with the bolt holes", but there are bolt holes on both ends. So it's really more critical to know if that long tab aligns "front" or "up" or in some orientation so the mounts are in symmetry for the engine.
@@jglew82 At 1:20, I see two on BOTH ends. Actually THREE counting the center hole that isn't a bolt hole. I see FOUR bolt holes; one in each corner.
Great information thanks
Where could I purchase the engine shackles?
Where can you find the shackles that bolt to the engine?
I've been on the same search after I found the crate engine for my K5 doesn't include them. I did see a set posted on Craigslist over $100. But, found them new online at LMC truck. I'll post again if they work. Hit the junkyards if you have more time than money...
I got a 92 Sierra and I guess previous owner didn’t want to mess with taking off the lower arms or just didn’t know how they went back in so we welded the mounts on. 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Wow I thought my pre-assembled mounts were difficult!
Just went through all this last year on my 1995 Sierra, and it SUCKED. But my mounts were way worse than yours, so it had to be done. I ended up using a serpentine belt tool with a crow's foot on the end to hold the nuts while turning the bolts from the top. And of course I dropped a couple of nuts somewhere in the frame... UGH
My long "wrench" has saved me many, many times. wink wink, nod nod
;-)
No.
why not buy gm mounts? for the 2wd they are still available.
I was just looking at them on Amazon and they are the most expensive but also it says they are made in China. China, great...that's the same place the crap mounts are made.
Thank you
thank you :P
read instructions ? who would do that? every time i work on a chevy , there are always option delete parts.
Just match up the bolt holes and weld them in.
Friggin' Engineers....
Hey there Eric i wanted to say how i love these update videos on dad's truck and think the project is coming together well.
This sort of thing brings back a memory i had in high school where our club got 1987 Ford Mustang and it was in ruff shape.
That being said we replaced almost everything on that car and entered it into a school rival compensation.
When the day came the other school couldn't even use or start up their project car and we won by default.
Here's a picture of the end results.
i.imgur.com/xNRkYUx.png
Nice!
There should be a saint named after Unibits.
0:10 I feel like there is a blooper outtake here lol
Does anyone know if 73-87 trucks are the same?
They are a little easier actually, I remove the brackets that hold the mounts.
@@rattle-can-resto5893 does it require a long swivel wrench like the one in this video. Guess what I'm trying to ask, Does it have bolt on the back side that are inside the K-member and hard to get to?
Why I dislike motor mounts.
there totally fine, it is just the implementation of them that is the issue.
What does it look like when the rubber is pulled off? I really want to see what the metal piece encapsulated in rubber looks like. Maybe the rubber can be shed using a wood chisel and your hydraulic press. An Arbor press might be better. I don't go camping anymore or I would take one and throw it in the campfire. Don't picture my campsite as being inside of a pine forest. My campsites mostly are in the desert where you would be lucky to see anyone else in a couple days. I live in an upditty neighborhood and I think the neighbors wouldn't take too kindly me lighting one of these on fire even for a YT video. Believe me in my younger days I might of LoL No YT then. Oh BTW drill through the Head of a rivet not the Tail. Give it a try. I know, I know the hole was not important but it's good discipline to do it right. I have drilled out so m any rivets in aircraft where I couldn't leave a trace a rivet was ever removed. I'm subscribed, thumbs up all your videos. You have a great channel, I've learned a lot. You have saved me time in removing these engine mounts off the frame. I have done many but not from this frame. They usually are a pain anyways laying on my back.
So i guess its impossible to replace the engine mounts while the engine is installed !!
Unless you have direct replacements, yes.
Actually you can replace the mountains with the engine in the truck. You just have to jack the engine up off the mounts and use a brace across the fenders to support the engine and you take replace the mounts that way. The mounts on my 1996 Yukon are shot and that's what I'll be doing when I get time. Haven't decided of I'm removing the LCAs yet or sneaking in behind the arms. Either way, it's going to be a pain. More so that the mounts on my Cherokee where.
torch a hole in the cross member . done this before and its not worth the hair pulling
looks so easy :?
Man, think I paid like $6 for each motor mount, complete with the brackets...?
Are they still doing ok? I've heard the $6 ones don't last long.
@@cj8172 Yeah haven't driven it much but so far so good. They were identical to the originals, and the rest of the project was big bucks so.. If you aren't on a budget I would definitely recommend going with better quality. I had to replace all the welsh plugs, rebuilt the trans, a ton of other nightmare jobs..lol
Can't wait to attack this PITA job soon....with engine in the truck.