I thought I was going insane, but I just had the dogs rotated wrong so the long bit of the fork was at the front instead of the back. Thank you for saving my sanity!
Excellent video, Ryan. Thanks for posting the complete process. Just a quick tip: you can pre-assemble and install the pin, ring, spring and hat first. Then all you have to do is slide the brake shoe underneath it and turn the ring so it falls into place in the hole. Toyota was smart enough to make slots in the shoes (not just a hole). This is especially helpful if the axle is in place and you have no direct sight of the hat because it is hidden by the hub.
With the hub out of the way, I can clearly see how the parking brake parts sit together. Truly appreciate you explaining your process every step of the way. Gave me confidence in taking my lx470 parking brakes apart for maintenance.
Thanks. I just did this. I should have watched this first. Bit it went ok. These handbrakes are not that good tbh. Even with new shoes. The cable is stretched.. had to put a spacer under the adjustment at the handbrake handle.
thank you, very helpful with this video, I want to ask for the installation of the top spring, is there a difference, because the canvass only moves one side, not simultaneously. from Indonesia 🇮🇩
Hi I noticed when you put the strut back on you placed it 180degress on the horizontal axis differently to how you pulled it out, there is a small lug on the narrow end of the strut that was pointing out when you removed it, that now points in towards the axle when you put it back. Does it matter which way this goes in? Curious as I recently fixed my handbrake and put it back in the same way you did but it isn’t working as effectively as it did previously so wondering if this could have something to do with how it spreads the brake shoes? Thank you
So I'm addicted to these videos now...really great work! Did I miss the "Wheel Bearings Video" you mentioned at the beginning? I can only find two that address the 80 Series rear brakes area. Thank you for taking the time and documenting these operations!
Followed this to the "T" with new rotors shoe's ungraded dog bones and upgraded increased ratio lever up grade / New cables both primary and secondary, This thing still wont hold on a hill rolling forward but holds a little (LITTLE) better from rolling backwards / what my best next check other then to carry blocks to put in front of the wheels (I now put it in gear to hold on a slope) Not ideal off road challenge
Thanks for the great video! Got me from A - Z as a wannabe weekend garage mechanic! One follow up question - Everything back together and working, however I'm now getting rotor noise. The only causes I can think of are that I bent the backing plate when prying the old arm loose, and the plate is now contacting the rotor when moving, or I mistakenly bumped a brake pad clip and its touching the rotor. Wanted to check and see if this sounded familiar and if there were any other ideas/experiences/solutions prior to taking it apart again. Thanks!
It's really easy to tweak the backing plate while you're in there. That's the most common cause of noise we see. Second would be a parking brake hold down spring being loose and rubbing.
Just an FYI, you put your dog bone in upside down from the way you pulled it out. You also mixed up your yellow and black top springs. They are different spring rates and coil counts. The knuckle closet to the spring on the dog bone should face out and on the top springs, the yellow spring goes to the rear shoe and the black spring goes on the front shoe that has the actuator arm on it. Also the black spring should be placed before the yellow on the pin. Otherwise great video.
We tend to stay OE for most brake parts. I've had decent luck with Napa parking brake shoes. The aftermarket hardware kits though don't fit correctly. The shoe hold down pins seem too long and the springs come loose and fall off.
Hi mate awesome videos Thank you so much. One question just doing pads ,rotors ,new callipers and park brake rebuild all round on myV8 2003 UZJ100.Ive noticed my park brake lever will not stay in down /disengaged position .It is reengaging itself and lever sits about half way on .If I physically hold lever down you can feel pressure trying to push up on lever Any ideas ? Thanks again mate Kade
Sometimes when the bellcranks on the backing plates seize they'll put pressure back through the cable. Or a seized cable will feel that way too. Bellcranks are the most likely
Hey Ryan, thanks for the great content as always this really helped me when I rebuilt all my brakes. Including the E brake. I have uncounted a problem since rebuilding unfortunately my brake backing plate is shot. What are my options? Replacement form Toyota cost a bomb. Are they're any after market parts available? I'm in the UK and struggling to find anything for the rear backing plates here.
you got an nice little heart but no answer - im also in the UK with a 97 3.0 TD , does your hub cover your shoe retaining pins , mine does and has no cut out like all others i see here on YT
Hi. I just replaced my LC100 shoe hardware. I noticed the replacement upper return springs are the same however the original Toyota ones consist of a Heavier and lighter spring.? What’s your thoughts
OTRAMM thanks mate. Do you know off hand which goes where in the original set up. I’m thinking of putting the originals back in as they are still in good condition.
Are the bell cranks retracting all the way when you let the handle down? If they are you may need to back the adjusters off more. We usually end up with them looser than the factory spec to keep them from dragging.
Hi Ryan, great vids btw. But, what is the problem with these 80 series handbrakes? Replaced everything and they still don't hold...I've also extended the dogbones by 5 mm(last try)...makes an improvement but still not super. I just can't imagine Toyota supplying a car with handbrakes so bad. Is there a caliper handbrake upgrade you know off? Regards
Great vid, very helpful thank you, if I could bother you and ask about the shim that was used on when attaching the arm to the shoe, how important are these? One of mine was missing and the other was dead flat and cracked, 😩 can I go without or do I need to find something? My new shoes did not come with any, thank you in advance and please keep them coming, legend
They keep the arm from rattling. If those were bad your other hardware probably isn't far behind. I'd just get a new hardware kit with all the springs and clips.
Where do you get your kits from ? On my lx450 where the main cable coming from the front attaches to a piece that the 2 short cables that go to the wheels are connected to . The piece that connects all 3 cables does not move freely and I have to bang it with a hammer before I can make it straight so the cables are even on both sides . Once I pull the parking break it pulls both cables and sets both breaks but when I release the cable only one side returns and the other side is holding the break on and it heats up and I can hear a clicking sound . I have to get under the truck and hammer the 3 cable connection piece back to center so the break won't stay on . Everything on the breaks them selves are moving freely . I can pull the cables by hand and they move every thing freely my problem is with the connection piece of the 3 cables . Is there a kit or a way to make this piece move freely left and right to keep the cables even ?
@@OTRAMM If both or one bumper stops are not sitting against the backing plates when the handbrake is off it can pull the opposite side handbrake shoe on with up & down movement of the diff and handbrake cable.
Help! At 19:20 the bent pin you put through the back and hold down with the ring, spring and hat is way loose. There is no tension holding down the drum. The other side has plenty of tension and seems right.
If you're talking about all the brackets that are welded to the housing you'll either need to make them or find a non rusted housing. For everything else your best bet is Toyota.
Hi, peace to you brother. That is great instructive video. Do you have a video of rear wheel bearing replacement on 100 series land cruiser particularl, please? If you do would you attache the link with your reply please? Thank you.
I haven't done a rear bearing video. It's not really a DIY kind of job. You need a large press and a special adapter to pull the bearings off. I've got the special tools for it and still hate doing them.
@@OTRAMM thank you for responding this promptly . You are amazing. From your video I learned that you are in Virginia. Which part of Virginia do you live in? I live here in Maryland. I am not sure how bad the rear ones need to be replaced. I would like to come up to your place for them. I have a 2001 LC. I also hear a heavy stumping noise as I take off from a stoped position. I feel like the connection between the top body and the frame is loose. Because in my assessment I do not hear it on a take off after I come to a very slow gentle stop. It happens only when I do a hard stop. But when I consulted the local mechanics they assumed it just by taking my words as a slack between the rear differential and the axel. And they they pushed hard for repair. I am not convinced. With your experience I believe you will help me understand. It is a bit long writing. Forgive me.
any one ever had the rotor not fit over the new shoes? I triple checked the assembly, the adjuster is all the way in, but the rotor won't fit over the shoes. It's like the pads are too thick
I thought I was going insane, but I just had the dogs rotated wrong so the long bit of the fork was at the front instead of the back. Thank you for saving my sanity!
Excellent video, Ryan. Thanks for posting the complete process. Just a quick tip: you can pre-assemble and install the pin, ring, spring and hat first. Then all you have to do is slide the brake shoe underneath it and turn the ring so it falls into place in the hole. Toyota was smart enough to make slots in the shoes (not just a hole). This is especially helpful if the axle is in place and you have no direct sight of the hat because it is hidden by the hub.
You know I've never thought of that!! I'm so used to doing the non slot kind it never occurred to me. Awesome tip!!!
With the hub out of the way, I can clearly see how the parking brake parts sit together. Truly appreciate you explaining your process every step of the way. Gave me confidence in taking my lx470 parking brakes apart for maintenance.
This guy is the best I've seen on YT. Clear and professional. good job from Australia
Saved me an insane amount of work!! Went from monkey with no idea to someone with a clue in a half hour. Thanks so much!
Great video. Never worked on a car/truck before but this walked me through the process and now have an 80 with working handbrake... for now :)
If you come to Maine, beers are on me. Your videos a so helpful. Thank you Ryan.
That was a well done explanation of this part of the brake rebuild process, Thanks!
Really great video, going to use this when the time comes on my HDJ81. Thanks for posting.
as always your videos are so helpful, true legend mechanic right here
Speeding up the video changes the vocal pitch. Awesome content
Thanks for this video. Your content is always clear and helpful.
Thanks. I just did this. I should have watched this first. Bit it went ok.
These handbrakes are not that good tbh. Even with new shoes.
The cable is stretched.. had to put a spacer under the adjustment at the handbrake handle.
thank you, very helpful with this video, I want to ask for the installation of the top spring, is there a difference, because the canvass only moves one side, not simultaneously. from Indonesia 🇮🇩
Hi I noticed when you put the strut back on you placed it 180degress on the horizontal axis differently to how you pulled it out, there is a small lug on the narrow end of the strut that was pointing out when you removed it, that now points in towards the axle when you put it back. Does it matter which way this goes in? Curious as I recently fixed my handbrake and put it back in the same way you did but it isn’t working as effectively as it did previously so wondering if this could have something to do with how it spreads the brake shoes? Thank you
So I'm addicted to these videos now...really great work! Did I miss the "Wheel Bearings Video" you mentioned at the beginning? I can only find two that address the 80 Series rear brakes area. Thank you for taking the time and documenting these operations!
You didn't miss it. When I went back to edit the wheel bearing portion I was missing a chunk of video. I haven't had a chance to reshoot it.
Followed this to the "T" with new rotors shoe's ungraded dog bones and upgraded increased ratio lever up grade / New cables both primary and secondary, This thing still wont hold on a hill rolling forward but holds a little (LITTLE) better from rolling backwards / what my best next check other then to carry blocks to put in front of the wheels (I now put it in gear to hold on a slope) Not ideal off road challenge
this is great. Definitely will be doing this sooner or later. thanks!
Very informative. Thank you for sharing
Thank you for posting this
Thanks for that I like to learn from you please.❤❤
Thanks, man! Some details were really usdful. But sorry, adjustment of backside of parking brake is still an issue
Thanks for the great video! Got me from A - Z as a wannabe weekend garage mechanic! One follow up question - Everything back together and working, however I'm now getting rotor noise. The only causes I can think of are that I bent the backing plate when prying the old arm loose, and the plate is now contacting the rotor when moving, or I mistakenly bumped a brake pad clip and its touching the rotor. Wanted to check and see if this sounded familiar and if there were any other ideas/experiences/solutions prior to taking it apart again. Thanks!
It's really easy to tweak the backing plate while you're in there. That's the most common cause of noise we see. Second would be a parking brake hold down spring being loose and rubbing.
@@OTRAMM awesome, will focus there. Which spring(s) is the hold down spring?
There are two hold down springs, one for each parking brake shoe. They're the ones with the keyed washers and pins through the backing plate.
Just an FYI, you put your dog bone in upside down from the way you pulled it out. You also mixed up your yellow and black top springs. They are different spring rates and coil counts. The knuckle closet to the spring on the dog bone should face out and on the top springs, the yellow spring goes to the rear shoe and the black spring goes on the front shoe that has the actuator arm on it. Also the black spring should be placed before the yellow on the pin. Otherwise great video.
What brake shoes do you like? Non-oem are significantly cheaper, but is the fitment okay?
We tend to stay OE for most brake parts. I've had decent luck with Napa parking brake shoes. The aftermarket hardware kits though don't fit correctly. The shoe hold down pins seem too long and the springs come loose and fall off.
Hi mate
awesome videos Thank you so much. One question just doing pads ,rotors ,new callipers and park brake rebuild all round on myV8 2003 UZJ100.Ive noticed my park brake lever will not stay in down /disengaged position .It is reengaging itself and lever sits about half way on .If I physically hold lever down you can feel pressure trying to push up on lever
Any ideas ? Thanks again mate
Kade
Sometimes when the bellcranks on the backing plates seize they'll put pressure back through the cable. Or a seized cable will feel that way too. Bellcranks are the most likely
Hey Ryan, thanks for the great content as always this really helped me when I rebuilt all my brakes. Including the E brake.
I have uncounted a problem since rebuilding unfortunately my brake backing plate is shot.
What are my options? Replacement form Toyota cost a bomb. Are they're any after market parts available?
I'm in the UK and struggling to find anything for the rear backing plates here.
you got an nice little heart but no answer - im also in the UK with a 97 3.0 TD , does your hub cover your shoe retaining pins , mine does and has no cut out like all others i see here on YT
Hi Ryan, I just want to know if this repair is at all possible without having to remove the rear hub?
You can do the parking brake without removing the hub. I had the hub off for other work and took advantage of the clearer view of the parking brake.
@@OTRAMM thanks Ryan 👌
Hi. I just replaced my LC100 shoe hardware. I noticed the replacement upper return springs are the same however the original Toyota ones consist of a Heavier and lighter spring.?
What’s your thoughts
The aftermarket kits are more generic and don't exactly match factory. They generally work OK though.
OTRAMM thanks mate. Do you know off hand which goes where in the original set up. I’m thinking of putting the originals back in as they are still in good condition.
I don't, I always do one side at a time so I can compare. I'm not sure the manual even shows the difference.
OTRAMM have figured it out now. Have sent you an email.
This was great. Thanks!
Thank you so much man
I cannot say enough how awesome you are!
Good video I'm still having trouble adjusting my hand brake I tightened it all the way back it off about 4 teeth I can smell my brakes
Are the bell cranks retracting all the way when you let the handle down? If they are you may need to back the adjusters off more. We usually end up with them looser than the factory spec to keep them from dragging.
Thx mate check tomorrow morning it's 10pm here in the land down under
Hi Ryan, great vids btw. But, what is the problem with these 80 series handbrakes? Replaced everything and they still don't hold...I've also extended the dogbones by 5 mm(last try)...makes an improvement but still not super. I just can't imagine Toyota supplying a car with handbrakes so bad. Is there a caliper handbrake upgrade you know off? Regards
Yip. Mines similar.
It’s working but not that great.
Great vid, very helpful thank you, if I could bother you and ask about the shim that was used on when attaching the arm to the shoe, how important are these? One of mine was missing and the other was dead flat and cracked, 😩 can I go without or do I need to find something? My new shoes did not come with any, thank you in advance and please keep them coming, legend
They keep the arm from rattling. If those were bad your other hardware probably isn't far behind. I'd just get a new hardware kit with all the springs and clips.
Cool, thanks heaps, really appreciate it
Now I remember why I hate drum brakes.
i used upgraded dog bones with mine and they stick. i cant adjust them in anymore. super annoying i have to redo this whole process again
Ryan what is that housing called ?
Fantastic! Thank you! Is there an OEM E-brake kit part number for the 1997 80?
It's all individual parts from Toyota. There's no kit from them that I know of.
@@OTRAMM thank you. Much appreciated.
Where do you get your kits from ? On my lx450 where the main cable coming from the front attaches to a piece that the 2 short cables that go to the wheels are connected to . The piece that connects all 3 cables does not move freely and I have to bang it with a hammer before I can make it straight so the cables are even on both sides . Once I pull the parking break it pulls both cables and sets both breaks but when I release the cable only one side returns and the other side is holding the break on and it heats up and I can hear a clicking sound . I have to get under the truck and hammer the 3 cable connection piece back to center so the break won't stay on . Everything on the breaks them selves are moving freely . I can pull the cables by hand and they move every thing freely my problem is with the connection piece of the 3 cables . Is there a kit or a way to make this piece move freely left and right to keep the cables even ?
I'm pretty sure the pivot you're talking about is part of the parking brake cable. Toyota would be your best bet for a new one.
Can i replace the pads without having to pull out the axel..brake pads arrived after i did my bearings..just dont want pull it all down again..
Yep, you only have to pull the axle to do the bearings.
By parking brake handle is very loose . When I pull it the brakes doesn’t do anything . Do you think it’s stuck ?
The actuator arms at each side in the rear are probably frozen
@@OTRAMM they actually still engaged and disengage when I pull the brake handle
@@Sclassmercedes if that's the case my guess would be stretched cable. But that's just a guess without seeing it.
Nice
a parts list is pretty much mando ryan.
How to adjust the park brake adjuster
How far are you with this truck now? Any more videos coming soon?
It's running and driving and has been out on trails a few times. We've been so busy we haven't had time to work on it much or do videos lately.
So do you have the hand brake lever engaged or disengaged before the adjustment.?
Disengaged.
Thanx buddy. Keep up the great vids.
Except you didn't adjust the limiter onto the backing plate on the bell crank that usually has a rubber bumper on it.
We've never seen the need to change the adjustment on them. That and they're usually rust seized beyond repair.
@@OTRAMM If both or one bumper stops are not sitting against the backing plates when the handbrake is off it can pull the opposite side handbrake shoe on with up & down movement of the diff and handbrake cable.
Help! At 19:20 the bent pin you put through the back and hold down with the ring, spring and hat is way loose. There is no tension holding down the drum. The other side has plenty of tension and seems right.
Sometimes the best pin stretches out and either needs to be squeezed down some or replaced.
OTRAMM Great! I'll try doing that. Thanks for the quick reply and helping us weekend mechanics out.
Hi were i can found all the hardware including the brackets to hold the e brake on the diff because mine is rusted
If you're talking about all the brackets that are welded to the housing you'll either need to make them or find a non rusted housing. For everything else your best bet is Toyota.
Hi, peace to you brother. That is great instructive video. Do you have a video of rear wheel bearing replacement on 100 series land cruiser particularl, please? If you do would you attache the link with your reply please? Thank you.
I haven't done a rear bearing video. It's not really a DIY kind of job. You need a large press and a special adapter to pull the bearings off. I've got the special tools for it and still hate doing them.
@@OTRAMM thank you for responding this promptly . You are amazing. From your video I learned that you are in Virginia. Which part of Virginia do you live in? I live here in Maryland. I am not sure how bad the rear ones need to be replaced. I would like to come up to your place for them. I have a 2001 LC. I also hear a heavy stumping noise as I take off from a stoped position. I feel like the connection between the top body and the frame is loose. Because in my assessment I do not hear it on a take off after I come to a very slow gentle stop. It happens only when I do a hard stop. But when I consulted the local mechanics they assumed it just by taking my words as a slack between the rear differential and the axel. And they they pushed hard for repair. I am not convinced. With your experience I believe you will help me understand. It is a bit long writing. Forgive me.
The stumping noise is in the rear.
@@EliasKao we're in Bealeton VA. About an hour South West of DC.
Excellent video, also needs uploaded too injections system please , take off injectors etc etc ... thanks
I pull the injectors in the head gasket videos. It's not often that we pull them on their own.
any one ever had the rotor not fit over the new shoes? I triple checked the assembly, the adjuster is all the way in, but the rotor won't fit over the shoes. It's like the pads are too thick
Make sure the dog bone at the top is fully seated. That can spread them too wide.
I gave up on my parking brakes. I just carry some wheel chocks with me.
I know the feeling!