It's been on my to-do list for a couple weeks, just had to sit down and get it edited. I've been in block sanding hell, so a break from that was welcome.
@@wilsworkshop I can't say I envy you sanding.. Lol! Guess I'm gonna have to make nice with someone who has a lathe for sleeves and spacers now. Have 2 vehicles to outfit with "cow tracs."
Awesome work and glad to find the video again. How did they end up holding up? Only asking because I was looking at wall thickness of some of the tubes and thought they sounded a little thin at .058 even though it's Chromoly I know they have some steel afcos that are .095 dom just thought I'd ask your opinion
I've been daily driving them about 60-70 miles a week and beating on them regularly. They still look new and traction is great. I was a little worried too but most of the force is "front-to-back" with the way they work, not much load trying to bend them. Speedway sells them for 4-links which have the same stress load direction and I trust Speedway to generally not sell junk. If it was a 500 or 600+ HP build I'd probably go thicker to be safe.
It came from the Explorer I pulled the axle out of, 1997-2002 disk brake. But I assume the earlier explorers with drums have the same bracket for the U-Bolts.
nice I got a 1990 GMC s-15 and put a 5.7 Vortec in it and turns 12 sec. in quarter-mile my biggest issue has been hooking up to street what rear end did you put in your ford what year explorer?
It's a late 90's disk brake rear, I go over it in my axle narrowing videos. With the clutch locker and traction bars I get zero wheel spin on dry pavement, it hooks up great and just launches. Granted I only have the stock 300ish HP, but it's still impressive for such a light vehicle rear with skinny street tires.
@@wilsworkshop I bet I'm looking for one those now gonna be hard I bet 1990s stuff is getting harder and harder to come by thanks for getting back to me
yep I made the bushings on the lathe, but I only had to drill the hole through them and face the ends off flat. The outside diameter was 1.5 in so I happened to have stock laying around that was that size. With some effort they could be made on a drill press if the ends are cut pretty Square , it's just drilling a hole through the center as good as possible. total cost for everything was around $125.
Awesome video I got a 98 S10 I want to put a 5-3 in it I've learned a lot on your videos awesome videos keep going
You'll be glad if you do it. It's a pretty easy swap, just a lot of little details that eat up time if you want everything to act OEM-ish.
Shoulder bolts are an option for your extra long bolts.
Yep, they would work also.
nice work!
Thanks a heap for this upload!
It's been on my to-do list for a couple weeks, just had to sit down and get it edited. I've been in block sanding hell, so a break from that was welcome.
@@wilsworkshop I can't say I envy you sanding.. Lol! Guess I'm gonna have to make nice with someone who has a lathe for sleeves and spacers now. Have 2 vehicles to outfit with "cow tracs."
Awesome work and glad to find the video again. How did they end up holding up? Only asking because I was looking at wall thickness of some of the tubes and thought they sounded a little thin at .058 even though it's Chromoly
I know they have some steel afcos that are .095 dom
just thought I'd ask your opinion
I've been daily driving them about 60-70 miles a week and beating on them regularly. They still look new and traction is great. I was a little worried too but most of the force is "front-to-back" with the way they work, not much load trying to bend them. Speedway sells them for 4-links which have the same stress load direction and I trust Speedway to generally not sell junk. If it was a 500 or 600+ HP build I'd probably go thicker to be safe.
What year ford did use to make your Franklin bracket? This has been very helpful thank you
It came from the Explorer I pulled the axle out of, 1997-2002 disk brake. But I assume the earlier explorers with drums have the same bracket for the U-Bolts.
nice I got a 1990 GMC s-15 and put a 5.7 Vortec in it and turns 12 sec. in quarter-mile my biggest issue has been hooking up to street what rear end did you put in your ford what year explorer?
It's a late 90's disk brake rear, I go over it in my axle narrowing videos. With the clutch locker and traction bars I get zero wheel spin on dry pavement, it hooks up great and just launches. Granted I only have the stock 300ish HP, but it's still impressive for such a light vehicle rear with skinny street tires.
@@wilsworkshop I bet I'm looking for one those now gonna be hard I bet 1990s stuff is getting harder and harder to come by thanks for getting back to me
did you make your solid bushings on a lathe? or just off the shelf parts.
how much did you have invested. great work btw :)
yep I made the bushings on the lathe, but I only had to drill the hole through them and face the ends off flat. The outside diameter was 1.5 in so I happened to have stock laying around that was that size. With some effort they could be made on a drill press if the ends are cut pretty Square , it's just drilling a hole through the center as good as possible. total cost for everything was around $125.
What's the od on bushings
Mine were 1.5" OD, but I read there's two different sizes, so it's best to measure yours to be sure.
Would you consider making a set ?
Can you list the bolts sizes, thread pitch, length, etc, that you had used?