Thanks for telling me about another thing that might need fixing. 😂 Great instructions very good of you to go to the trouble of setting it up and filming it.
@NC944er Not doing it anytime soon. But thank you for doing this detailed video. Your videos are just about the only videos that give me 100% confidence to do the job. Very thorough. Thank you.
Used to be popular to wire wheel down to clean rubber and fill the mount with urethane rubber casting compound from McMaster Carr. Did mine 15 years ago with 40A durometer and it’s still holding well. Most guys were using 85A, but I didn’t want it to be too harsh. 1lb can is around $40. Search for DIY transmission mount on the forums.
@@phil6012 Yeah, that’s still popular today. 944Store even sells mounts that are preset in urethane. Supposed to firm it up nicely. Here, I was switching away from a solid transmission mount due to excessive vibration, so I opted for a standard OEM mount.
@@NC944ervery surprised to see how flexible the brand new mount was in the video - expected more rigidity but that’s how it’s engineered! fantastic vid! i did the urethane fill on mine, and have been curious what the difference between the old broken mount, urethane fill and new OE is like
Great video, but another win for the early cars when it comes to servicing. This video was longer than the time it takes to do mounts on the early cars.
Yeah I should probably do based on how my engine mounts were. Would this be a good time to do the only 944 shifter linkage arm since the trans is dropped down a little?
I’m going look at a 944 on Monday. What would you guys pay for a car with good paint and interior that has sat up 10 years? I would change the belts, water pump, hoses, and ignition bits. Probably will need a full clean out of the fuel system and the rubber brake components replaced.
@@britishsouth That’s awesome! Best of luck checking it out. A nice interior is a big win, as it can be a costly and time consuming area to restore. It sounds like you’re on the right track with the maintenance items to catch up on. The timing belt is obviously pretty critical to get sorted early on. These cars don’t like to sit for long periods, and generally the oil seals will start to fail once you begin putting any real miles on the car, so I’d add an engine reseal to the list at some point as well.
Nice work as always! Sure looks like you already removed and painted that carrier bracket, presumably when you did the torque tube bearings or clutch? At least this doesn't look like a big job, it's certainly on my list of things to check (and probably do).
@@ThingsBreak I had previously painted some sections on the top of the carrier, and cleaned up the underside, which was well protected in a thick layer of CV axle grease that had seeped and splashed out over the years of driving. 😆
Great tutorial as always! I remember you installed a Lindsey racing ultra mount before, is there a reason you reverted to OEM? I’m currently preparing to do my crankshaft seal so I can finally track my 1986 (also daily driven, so I’m trying to reach balance between performance and comfort) in the spring and I’m deciding between the oem and the Lindsey racing.
The Lindsey ones can be a little harsh. People will sometimes split the difference by filling the OEM units with urethane. Check the other comments here.
@@ryano.8768 Yeah, I switched away from the Ultra Mount due to the vibration at idle. My primary use case for car right now is running errands and short trips between towns, and given the stop-and-go traffic and sitting at traffic lights, the Ultra Mount just isn’t as compliant as the OEM rubber mount. Once the car is at speed, the solid mount isn’t really an issue, and it definitely feels more stable in turns than the OEM mount, so there’s a trade off.
@@munchmystic4712 Already replaced my clutch… at the time, I considered making a video, but there were excellent ones already out there from @vsvenson and @edredas. Since there wouldn’t have been enough new information to add to the existing work to justify the time cost, I elected to skip it.
Fantastic tutorial
Thank you for this video! I was planning to replace mine this weekend!
@@eddiealvarado3923 Awesome! Let me know how it goes.
Thanks for telling me about another thing that might need fixing. 😂 Great instructions very good of you to go to the trouble of setting it up and filming it.
@NC944er Not doing it anytime soon. But thank you for doing this detailed video. Your videos are just about the only videos that give me 100% confidence to do the job. Very thorough. Thank you.
Very well made video. Thx!!!
Another great video!
Used to be popular to wire wheel down to clean rubber and fill the mount with urethane rubber casting compound from McMaster Carr. Did mine 15 years ago with 40A durometer and it’s still holding well. Most guys were using 85A, but I didn’t want it to be too harsh. 1lb can is around $40. Search for DIY transmission mount on the forums.
@@phil6012 Yeah, that’s still popular today. 944Store even sells mounts that are preset in urethane. Supposed to firm it up nicely. Here, I was switching away from a solid transmission mount due to excessive vibration, so I opted for a standard OEM mount.
@@NC944ervery surprised to see how flexible the brand new mount was in the video - expected more rigidity but that’s how it’s engineered! fantastic vid! i did the urethane fill on mine, and have been curious what the difference between the old broken mount, urethane fill and new OE is like
Great video, but another win for the early cars when it comes to servicing. This video was longer than the time it takes to do mounts on the early cars.
@@anthonydietmeier6524 Indeed, quite a bit easier on the early cars. 😂
They also changed things for the 968 so the mount attaches to an aluminum carrier with studs so you don't need to drop the carrier.
@@JVR_Funwithdesign That’s cool! I didn’t know that. 👍🏼
Yeah I should probably do based on how my engine mounts were. Would this be a good time to do the only 944 shifter linkage arm since the trans is dropped down a little?
@@dpmgarage19 That would definitely provide some much needed extra space for the short shifter install. 👍🏼
I’m going look at a 944 on Monday. What would you guys pay for a car with good paint and interior that has sat up 10 years? I would change the belts, water pump, hoses, and ignition bits. Probably will need a full clean out of the fuel system and the rubber brake components replaced.
@@britishsouth That’s awesome! Best of luck checking it out. A nice interior is a big win, as it can be a costly and time consuming area to restore. It sounds like you’re on the right track with the maintenance items to catch up on. The timing belt is obviously pretty critical to get sorted early on. These cars don’t like to sit for long periods, and generally the oil seals will start to fail once you begin putting any real miles on the car, so I’d add an engine reseal to the list at some point as well.
Nice work as always! Sure looks like you already removed and painted that carrier bracket, presumably when you did the torque tube bearings or clutch? At least this doesn't look like a big job, it's certainly on my list of things to check (and probably do).
@@ThingsBreak I had previously painted some sections on the top of the carrier, and cleaned up the underside, which was well protected in a thick layer of CV axle grease that had seeped and splashed out over the years of driving. 😆
Great tutorial as always! I remember you installed a Lindsey racing ultra mount before, is there a reason you reverted to OEM? I’m currently preparing to do my crankshaft seal so I can finally track my 1986 (also daily driven, so I’m trying to reach balance between performance and comfort) in the spring and I’m deciding between the oem and the Lindsey racing.
The Lindsey ones can be a little harsh. People will sometimes split the difference by filling the OEM units with urethane. Check the other comments here.
@@ryano.8768 Yeah, I switched away from the Ultra Mount due to the vibration at idle. My primary use case for car right now is running errands and short trips between towns, and given the stop-and-go traffic and sitting at traffic lights, the Ultra Mount just isn’t as compliant as the OEM rubber mount. Once the car is at speed, the solid mount isn’t really an issue, and it definitely feels more stable in turns than the OEM mount, so there’s a trade off.
Can u pleeeease do a clutch replacement video
@@munchmystic4712 Already replaced my clutch… at the time, I considered making a video, but there were excellent ones already out there from @vsvenson and @edredas. Since there wouldn’t have been enough new information to add to the existing work to justify the time cost, I elected to skip it.