I had a friend who went to Yosemite 40 years ago. He was fit, but a real world 5.4 climber on tricky limestone. He was soon climbing 5.9 cracks. Then he got on a long one, ran out the lead, and could keep climbing, but didn't have the strength to put in the pro. Eventually, he took a 90 foot fall on the rope. Next thing I knew, he was into marathon canoeing.
Remember I saw these vids when they came out. Tom and Pete weren't famous at all, thought I thought they were cool in their own goofy way. And def super solid and inspirational climbers anyway. Yeah, been a minute 😁
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation: 00:17 🧗♂️ Introduction to Crack Climbing - Crack climbing is a fundamental skill for climbers, offering techniques like finger jams and hand jams for various routes. - The series aims to introduce crack climbing techniques, starting with finger cracks. 01:12 🤚 Finger Jam Techniques - Explains the "thumbs up" finger jam technique. - Emphasizes the importance of twisting the thumb outwards for a secure jam. - Contrasts "thumbs up" with "thumbs down" finger jam and their respective uses. 03:05 🦶 Foot Placement in Finger Cracks - Highlights the significance of finding constrictions in the crack for footholds. - Demonstrates how to position the foot sideways and use knee placement to secure footholds. - Discusses using offset sections of the crack for thin cracks and looking for external footholds on the wall. 04:48 👢 Choosing the Right Climbing Boots - Recommends using softer, well-worn climbing boots over stiff ones for better rubber twisting. - Soft boots may be slightly uncomfortable but provide better performance in finger cracks. 05:30 🎬 Conclusion and Preview - Summarizes the key points about climbing finger cracks. - Teases the next episode's topic: hand cracks. Made with HARPA AI
thx mate good infos specialy the soft boot strategy had a short but hard crack and it worked well also thumb up and down ... never thought about it like u ty
You guys got very nice and useful videos!! I want to ask if you guys can share the function that others can add translated subtitles? I am from Taiwan, and many my friends likes your video but some of them can't understand English well, so I want to translate for them.
Whilst watching this couldn't stop thinking, what if you fall backwards whilst your fingers are jammed into a crack? couldn't you lose a finger? crazy....
1) Jamming isn't being stuck, some jams used muscular expansion, so you relax, and out she comes, which is also why they can be very exhasuting. Some do involve jaming like a chock stone, but you do it carefully choosing the shape of the hand and the stone to keep it safe. When jams get super hard, on difficult climbs you often have very little to work with, and the difficulty isn't getting stuck, it is getting stuck in at all. But I know someone who lost a finger reaching for a high shelf and caught a ring on the way down. Anything is possible. 2) Gravity works downward, so falling backwards is likely not the situation you are most worried about, or the direction you oriented the jam for the pinch. I don't think in most situations it is the fancy places with perfect cracks that would be the problem. It is crags nobody has heard of or limestone, that gets nasty. You get all kinds of weird shapes. with painful needles and bumps in them. Though usually there are other holds to use. If an accident can happen, someone has probably done it. 3) I have heard of people getting seriously stuck. In the cases in question, two I can remember, it was knees. Mustang tower is the one that I heard about in the climbing press. They were way out there, and way up there. The guy had to sort it out, and eventually he did, but he could still be there. Google tells us stories of amputations on finger cracks. One had the guy in a pin scar which is a pocket left in the rock when pitons were hammered in over and over. So a classic trap.
I had a friend who went to Yosemite 40 years ago. He was fit, but a real world 5.4 climber on tricky limestone. He was soon climbing 5.9 cracks. Then he got on a long one, ran out the lead, and could keep climbing, but didn't have the strength to put in the pro. Eventually, he took a 90 foot fall on the rope. Next thing I knew, he was into marathon canoeing.
wack he never loved climbing then, a whips a whip. If you didnt splat onto the next one
There is no crack climb high enough to take a 90 foot fall on the rope.
@@procerator That's only 27 meters, you really don't think there are crack routes that long?
Just found this... the boyz look like babies!! Theyve come a long way, or maybe were all just getting old. Good video!
Thought the same in the first moments.
And Pete sounds quite unfamiliar
@@Atariks sounds very congested
Remember I saw these vids when they came out. Tom and Pete weren't famous at all, thought I thought they were cool in their own goofy way. And def super solid and inspirational climbers anyway. Yeah, been a minute 😁
I give this video a... THUMBS UP!
Thumbs Down is better weren’t you listening. Haha
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation:
00:17 🧗♂️ Introduction to Crack Climbing
- Crack climbing is a fundamental skill for climbers, offering techniques like finger jams and hand jams for various routes.
- The series aims to introduce crack climbing techniques, starting with finger cracks.
01:12 🤚 Finger Jam Techniques
- Explains the "thumbs up" finger jam technique.
- Emphasizes the importance of twisting the thumb outwards for a secure jam.
- Contrasts "thumbs up" with "thumbs down" finger jam and their respective uses.
03:05 🦶 Foot Placement in Finger Cracks
- Highlights the significance of finding constrictions in the crack for footholds.
- Demonstrates how to position the foot sideways and use knee placement to secure footholds.
- Discusses using offset sections of the crack for thin cracks and looking for external footholds on the wall.
04:48 👢 Choosing the Right Climbing Boots
- Recommends using softer, well-worn climbing boots over stiff ones for better rubber twisting.
- Soft boots may be slightly uncomfortable but provide better performance in finger cracks.
05:30 🎬 Conclusion and Preview
- Summarizes the key points about climbing finger cracks.
- Teases the next episode's topic: hand cracks.
Made with HARPA AI
Pete and Tom look so young!
thx mate good infos
specialy the soft boot strategy
had a short but hard crack and it worked well
also thumb up and down ... never thought about it like u ty
spicy run-out at the end :)) 5:55
Saw Randall at The Creek last week and didnt remember why he looked so familiar, now im here again... Hahaha
Obrigado pela informação!! os escaladores do Brasil agradecem!! thank you
You guys got very nice and useful videos!! I want to ask if you guys can share the function that others can add translated subtitles?
I am from Taiwan, and many my friends likes your video but some of them can't understand English well, so I want to translate for them.
Very interesting.Thank you .
Nice one! Thx for sharing.
Thumbs Up Jams? thats my mix cd title
As a 29 year old man, I’m still not quite old enough to watch a crack climbing video with the sentence “thumb up in the crack technique”
Thanks For the Tutorial! Very helpful.
Awesome video; Certainly helped me! Could any one tell please me what the name of the crag that they are at?
Luca Keushguerian millstone or Lawrencefield I reckon. Both in the Peak District.
Great! Thanks mates.
does these guys even age? love the music.
Embankment 2 at Millstone quarry. E1 5c on just the right crack. Pete just walking up it :-D
Finger cracks really hurt. Any tips on that?
Whilst watching this couldn't stop thinking, what if you fall backwards whilst your fingers are jammed into a crack? couldn't you lose a finger? crazy....
1) Jamming isn't being stuck, some jams used muscular expansion, so you relax, and out she comes, which is also why they can be very exhasuting. Some do involve jaming like a chock stone, but you do it carefully choosing the shape of the hand and the stone to keep it safe. When jams get super hard, on difficult climbs you often have very little to work with, and the difficulty isn't getting stuck, it is getting stuck in at all. But I know someone who lost a finger reaching for a high shelf and caught a ring on the way down. Anything is possible.
2) Gravity works downward, so falling backwards is likely not the situation you are most worried about, or the direction you oriented the jam for the pinch. I don't think in most situations it is the fancy places with perfect cracks that would be the problem. It is crags nobody has heard of or limestone, that gets nasty. You get all kinds of weird shapes. with painful needles and bumps in them. Though usually there are other holds to use. If an accident can happen, someone has probably done it.
3) I have heard of people getting seriously stuck. In the cases in question, two I can remember, it was knees. Mustang tower is the one that I heard about in the climbing press. They were way out there, and way up there. The guy had to sort it out, and eventually he did, but he could still be there.
Google tells us stories of amputations on finger cracks. One had the guy in a pin scar which is a pocket left in the rock when pitons were hammered in over and over. So a classic trap.
New Drinking Game: Take a shot every time he says "crack"
awesome video and great info. thank you.
cheers
these guys are awesome. would love to do an extreme climbing adventure with them. heavy ass backpacks and lots of climbing.. woo hoo
anyone know what climb this is?
This looks similar to some of the cracks in an area near Hathersage in Peak District.
Teen Pete!
Can anyone tell me the name of the route?
thank you so much!
Thumbs oop, thumbs dewn.
Bastián Girardi JAJAJAJJAJAJAJAJJA
Great! What is the music please?
What crag is this?
Holy shit pete looks young here
The feet on a finger crack dont look much better than a smear. Not much of a jam if it's that small. Tips?
WIDEBOYZ: ORIGINS
Wide Boyz :)
Game Grumps
me too
YUPP
zelda gameplay
sameee
i'm curious what this post is about. what does this have to do with game grumps? haha
mattmakescovers they where talking about the latest metal gear [finger climbing] , if I remember correctly
Using crack to get high can quickly cause addiction and you are focusing only to crack after that 🤪
That all looks rather painful!
Not the crack school I was looking for, but okay
I climb 5.11b at my gym but can't make it 10 foot up a 5.8 crack
Well, on the positive, when you get up higher, your chance of grounding goes down, particular with cracks as you can normally get some pro in.
Typing in 'nuts in cracks' brought me here.
Disappointed.
my gf could of went to the crack school
Looking painful
I'd take a *crack* at it.
nobody ever tells you how to climb down..
Pause at the end and use the left arrow key to play the video in reverse
lol jk you're right. They never talk about safety either
Meth is the problem in the country not crack.
Totally irresponsible not wearing helmets.
shut up