Can’t believe how easy this is and looks great, all this without cutting, I’ve been watching videos and asking everyone how to do a valley before I tackle mine, thanks for the video
Thanks for reminding me how that valley is done. I do remember that a row of shingles was laid in the fall line of the valley, and that each slope was laid parallel to the eaves, but dimly in my mind was that fall line BELOW both slopes. Now I see that the fall line single row lies BETWEEN the two intersecting roof planes. That’s probably why it was hard for your friend to explain it to you. Always better to show than to describe, lol. 👍🏼
I started this valley system 1976 in Houston Texas and we called it the California one cut after a guy that worked for me from California good to see others using it
Thank you for posting this video. If I was 30-35 years younger I’d definitely do my own roof, but I have to pay someone to do it. I learned what to watch for! You’re the first (video) guy I’ve seen put a bead of tar close to the end of the shingle at the valley. I like that step. It makes sense to me too, and takes a few extra minutes and a few dollars to help water diversion/ elimination. I will be doing some research to find out what you were referring to about something to put at the ridge to kill/eliminate whatever was discolouring your roof. Thanks again.
Thanks. I did find a product at home depot that was specifically designed for that Black algae on the roof . It is a little pricey but I still have to see if it works
Really appreciate you taking the time to show your method! I too have been putting mine off and it’s time to bite the bullet. Cheers to you, this is the way to go for my 3-1/2 / 12 carport valleys. As for the neg replies about blow off….wind is not as harsh in the valleys as they are in the field plus after a weeks worth of hot sun, everything melts as one if you’ve paid attention to laying shingles down flat and backing up with cement on overlapping layers. Nice looking leakproof job J La!
Thanks for the kind words and it's been a while now and a lot of wind a lot of rain this season no problems I'm sure you're gonna have an excellent seal on yours
its good your doing it yourself tricks, perfect, yet again starting there n going the opposite direction professionals make their valley protection wider , n cut it at the start at valley work backwards n cut end on ridge decra metal roof n perma lock are the best n cheapest to over lapped,
Both pitches are the same. You still want the cut on the taller side so it makes for easier tie in above the lower peak. And easier to run the ridge cap on the lower peak up under the shingles
@@timpinson3202same. Guys sometimes forget to dog-ear the top of the shingles and also cut into the weaved shingles by mistake. Bleeder strip on California looks much cleaner in my opinion
Sharkstooth Valley. Dont add the tar. Shingle manufacturer has tarstrip on the shingles back side already there exactly actually, its why this is the best valley, and I use this pattern coming out of my metal valleys called Open sharkstooth Valley Tar makes small repairs impossible. Necessary especially if you homeowners are trying and fail small, give us a chance to fix small. Good luck. Stay safe, let us have some.... Steeper the better;)
Remember that it's best to do the lower roof first and lap the higher roof over the top because that gets the most water, and I suppose, being higher, the water gets picks up the most speed on the higher roof.
If reversed, what it does is the shingles on chalked line change how the water flows with it being on top of other its then easier to go down, then transfer past the transition. Dont use tar in this valley like he did. Small repairs are impossible now. He glued together both sides valley.
I would have done the lower roof first, given more water coming down from higher roof that could run under shingles in valley, but I don't think you'll have a problem with this one. But generally lower roof is done first and runs underneath higher roof. Also not sure if you have ice and water in valley or aluminum flashing. that's what I do anyway
Should leave the overlap joint 3 1/2” back from valley to prevent full stream of water running exactly in seam. Not to mention debris catching on edge.
Plus he didn't leave enough space in that valley five fingers from middle off valley his bleeder is to tight to the fall the uppers gonna wash down to the valley and leak in not from snow and ice sitting in there hack job or just doesn't know how to roof
I prefer weaving the valley shingles to lock them in and avoid the three-layer lump created by this method. I know this saved you a lot on labor, so congrats on doing what worked best for you.
the key to roofing is underlayment 50 year-100 year is best, also rain n ice underlayment on edges valleys , metal shield etcalso using starter shingles,on top of the regular underlayment ,, that way you can re-use them if placing cheap shingles reference to the area you live, you can paint metal parts with enamel , clear coat them with uv ray , n save big on enviroment
Okay man I got to say that you explained it okay but I love you said how that guy that thought of way was smart until it leaks then he is stupid. Lol that's funny
if you dont know how to install valleys ,just install a open valley metal flashing, by using approved sealant, no ice n water underneath , the low steep roof side gets install first then metal flashing the widest one available, then on the other side high long steep slope,,it will hang a little over the metal again cut the excessive asphalt or material, pick the side high steep slope n place proper sealant, open valleys are better for easy sliding metal wears out less than metal can be can spray painted n or clear coated, no sanding just use laquer thinner spray to clean n wipe or the good stuff spray berryman,, he is doing right,, theres is a new material easy to work with n last 50 years or longer depending on shade climate n fungus mole, can last 70 years , an cheap its f-wave by revia bikes from grandbury tx ,
That's a speed valley you did but why not just go with metal valley? I've done closed valleys many times over the last 18 years of roofing but here in Canada millions of houses have metal which I prefer and holds up to the worst of weather. You can speed valley it as well Winter snow melts quicker and it's easy to maintain if leaves get in there. Looks fine. Shouldn't have any issues. That's what matters. If ice is a concern you alway weave a heater cable up the valley. Just un plug it come spring to extend it life.
I actually wanted to do a metal Valley but I could not find a retailer that had it available around me . None of the big Box stores carry it around where I live
If you’re using shingles as your starter course you have to put them upside down so the tar side is down towards the gutter edge you have yours right side up !
Actually know a roofer I work w sometimes and when he was a contractor for gaf they taught them to put the shingles upside down, nail them when you lay your first shingle over the starter it will stick to that shingle, but idk I do it the way you’re talking ab too just what I heard
Lmao 🤣 I've seen so many jobs that Had no under layment that didn't leak 💀 this guy is a clown its how you water proof the roof thats your job been doing this 10 years plus dudes a clown 🤡 just know that
It is definitely the install that waterproofs everything but the underlayment has to be installed regardless as a prevention for water intrusion, snow, and wind driven rain. Even if ice and water isn’t required in your state I feel like it’s a good guard considering the roof is going to be there for 20-25 years.
3500 seems low as fuck tho considering a square of shingles is about 90 bucks or so and then the cost of ice and water/ synthetic paper/ nails/ step flashing/ tar and possible pipe boots/metal for chimney
And you did the valley backwards......should have roofed the lower section first! You installed a sealant which will help.....but if done properly you wouldnt need that......
The way the camera is positioned makes the pitch look higher on that roof, they are both the same and wouldn't matter which way the valley went. Some folks can't afford a metal valley and professional roofing crew. The reason that I'm doing this and sharing as a DIY person is for the money saved. I had a quote for$14 grand to do my roof and it cost me just under $4,000 . The same crew that qave me the estimate did a neighbors roof . They roofed right over an existing 3 tab roof. The neighbor may have requested that move but by no means would I call that crew professional. As far as the California valley being a shortcut or "not good enough" or will cost money in the long-term. Let's face it a so called 30 year roof doesn't last 30 years and you'll be back at it soon enough. If I had the money I would higher a crew to roof my house every 10 years, but I don't so i will have to attack it myself. I could have roofed my house 3 times for the money saved. Oh BTW no leaks as of today on that valley.
Are you a certified government roofer eh? Well i am....so here are the reasons...the exposure of a laminated shingle installed in California valley has potential to constrict water flow .....second where your california shingle line up in the valley itself is potential for a leak if its not covered by the shingle that you are applying over.....plus doesnt look nice and tells me that you are not confident or capable of cutting a nice valley . Would rather cut corners eh?
David Lysohirka LMFAO!!! I have no idea where the “eh un” came from. I’m not Canadian. I’m Bahamian. Also, I’m a roofer that has learned how to do a valley only with the flashing, and I have seen this style valley a few times around The Bahamas, and wondered which one is better. I’ve never done a valley like this but it looks good
California valleys are horrible...thats why they a quick and easy.....like most things in construction......short cuts end up costing someone more in the end....a closed/cut valley is great but metal valley are the best......in 22 years in the trade (red seal since 2003).....i have installed a valley this way.......
@taylorgordon93 alive and well.....trade certification reads 'certified waterproofing and damproofing' red seal with my name on it dating back to 2003. Finished top marks over three year average at 98.5%.....we take our roofing serious up north, roofing in the mountains ❄🌨🌩
Can’t believe how easy this is and looks great, all this without cutting, I’ve been watching videos and asking everyone how to do a valley before I tackle mine, thanks for the video
probably the best explained video I've come across so far... thank you.
Thanks for reminding me how that valley is done. I do remember that a row of shingles was laid in the fall line of the valley, and that each slope was laid parallel to the eaves, but dimly in my mind was that fall line BELOW both slopes. Now I see that the fall line single row lies BETWEEN the two intersecting roof planes.
That’s probably why it was hard for your friend to explain it to you.
Always better to show than to describe, lol. 👍🏼
I started this valley system 1976 in Houston Texas and we called it the California one cut after a guy that worked for me from California good to see others using it
They’re all over kentucky man! Nice to meet the man that has us roofers putting this masterpiece on!
pretty sure i started it in alaska, we called it uncut alaska valley
Dang, all these haters are cracking me up. This is a fine job for your application in my opinion. A little common sense and logic goes a long way!!!
Thanks for the vid. I like this approach to covering the valley. Great job.
Thank you for the information, I got to do this on my house, which I have been putting off , I'll give it a shot !! 👍
This job is clean, and the explanation very clear. I think you should roof the low side first. Thanks
This is a good layout approached. Thanks for your video Sir.
When I was young I use to cut those lines, now I really feel it with the arthritis in my hands.
Thank you for posting this video. If I was 30-35 years younger I’d definitely do my own roof, but I have to pay someone to do it. I learned what to watch for! You’re the first (video) guy I’ve seen put a bead of tar close to the end of the shingle at the valley. I like that step. It makes sense to me too, and takes a few extra minutes and a few dollars to help water diversion/ elimination. I will be doing some research to find out what you were referring to about something to put at the ridge to kill/eliminate whatever was discolouring your roof. Thanks again.
Thanks. I did find a product at home depot that was specifically designed for that Black algae on the roof . It is a little pricey but I still have to see if it works
Dam man. At least you honest. Much respect. Even more respect comes when u make it right.
I would do the shorter roof first then the taller one, because of rain water run off. Look great, good job
Really appreciate you taking the time to show your method! I too have been putting mine off and it’s time to bite the bullet. Cheers to you, this is the way to go for my 3-1/2 / 12 carport valleys. As for the neg replies about blow off….wind is not as harsh in the valleys as they are in the field plus after a weeks worth of hot sun, everything melts as one if you’ve paid attention to laying shingles down flat and backing up with cement on overlapping layers. Nice looking leakproof job J La!
Thanks for the kind words and it's been a while now and a lot of wind a lot of rain this season no problems I'm sure you're gonna have an excellent seal on yours
Man thank you. You may have saved my sisters roof....
its good your doing it yourself tricks, perfect, yet again starting there n going the opposite direction professionals make their valley protection wider , n cut it at the start at valley work backwards n cut end on ridge decra metal roof n perma lock are the best n cheapest to over lapped,
Very good and you surely save big bucks
Nice procedure!!
Both pitches are the same. You still want the cut on the taller side so it makes for easier tie in above the lower peak. And easier to run the ridge cap on the lower peak up under the shingles
Not criticizing, BTW. Just trying to give a bit of advice. California Valleys are the only kinds of valleys I do unless it's too low of a pitch
@@timpinson3202same. Guys sometimes forget to dog-ear the top of the shingles and also cut into the weaved shingles by mistake. Bleeder strip on California looks much cleaner in my opinion
Thank you that’s a very informative video, never seen it done this way but this will definitely save me a lot of time.
You earned my subscription.
👍🏽
Sharkstooth Valley.
Dont add the tar. Shingle manufacturer has tarstrip on the shingles back side already there exactly actually, its why this is the best valley, and I use this pattern coming out of my metal valleys called Open sharkstooth Valley
Tar makes small repairs impossible. Necessary especially if you homeowners are trying and fail small, give us a chance to fix small. Good luck. Stay safe, let us have some.... Steeper the better;)
Nice Job. Carry on!
thanks a lot, very well explained !!!!!!
Remember that it's best to do the lower roof first and lap the higher roof over the top because that gets the most water, and I suppose, being higher, the water gets picks up the most speed on the higher roof.
If reversed, what it does is the shingles on chalked line change how the water flows with it being on top of other its then easier to go down, then transfer past the transition.
Dont use tar in this valley like he did. Small repairs are impossible now. He glued together both sides valley.
I would have done the lower roof first, given more water coming down from higher roof that could run under shingles in valley, but I don't think you'll have a problem with this one. But generally lower roof is done first and runs underneath higher roof. Also not sure if you have ice and water in valley or aluminum flashing. that's what I do anyway
Bro thanks that was really cool
Im about to try that trick trying to fix a roofers mistake valleys are leaking i think this will work perfect thanks
I've done this quite a while ago and since then I've had some pretty severe windstorms as well as pretty severe rainstorms no problems
Great job explanation
Should leave the overlap joint 3 1/2” back from valley to prevent full stream of water running exactly in seam. Not to mention debris catching on edge.
@dan kaisk what Dan said.
What Kim said
Excellent video!
It appears the cut is on the wrong side. If both pitches are equal then the cut goes on the side with the higher peak
Yes the peaks are roughly the same within a foot.
Dormer is steaper i wouldn't cut the main
Plus he didn't leave enough space in that valley five fingers from middle off valley his bleeder is to tight to the fall the uppers gonna wash down to the valley and leak in not from snow and ice sitting in there hack job or just doesn't know how to roof
I prefer weaving the valley shingles to lock them in and avoid the three-layer lump created by this method. I know this saved you a lot on labor, so congrats on doing what worked best for you.
Closed is weaving
Well this is a closed valley and it isn't weaved.
Weaving only approved for single laminated shingles like 3 tab by most manufacturers
Roofs fine. Aim lower though. These shingles seal good so your good.
I really like your thorough demonstration and easy style of explanation. Nice job. Is that the so-called Long Island closed valley?
I've seen several comments saying California valley
the key to roofing is underlayment 50 year-100 year is best, also rain n ice underlayment on edges valleys , metal shield etcalso using starter shingles,on top of the regular underlayment ,, that way you can re-use them if placing cheap shingles reference to the area you live, you can paint metal parts with enamel , clear coat them with uv ray , n save big on enviroment
Okay man I got to say that you explained it okay but I love you said how that guy that thought of way was smart until it leaks then he is stupid. Lol that's funny
Lower field should be ran first. This is backwards sir. :)
Same pitch and the roofs are within a foot of height difference
One is higher , I agree other side 1st
@@JLafix it’s still wrong lol
Yup this is wrong for sure
So is this wrong
Or correct I’m about to follow this video
Excellent job. Thanks
if you dont know how to install valleys ,just install a open valley metal flashing, by using approved sealant, no ice n water underneath , the low steep roof side gets install first then metal flashing the widest one available, then on the other side high long steep slope,,it will hang a little over the metal again cut the excessive asphalt or material, pick the side high steep slope n place proper sealant, open valleys are better for easy sliding metal wears out less than metal can be can spray painted n or clear coated, no sanding just use laquer thinner spray to clean n wipe or the good stuff spray berryman,, he is doing right,, theres is a new material easy to work with n last 50 years or longer depending on shade climate n fungus mole, can last 70 years , an cheap its f-wave by revia bikes from grandbury tx ,
got any info on those shears/scissors used to cut the shingles.. sure looks like they beat the hell out of the olfa blade ive been using
No I don't. I think they are big tin snips
That's a speed valley you did but why not just go with metal valley? I've done closed valleys many times over the last 18 years of roofing but here in Canada millions of houses have metal which I prefer and holds up to the worst of weather. You can speed valley it as well
Winter snow melts quicker and it's easy to maintain if leaves get in there. Looks fine. Shouldn't have any issues. That's what matters.
If ice is a concern you alway weave a heater cable up the valley. Just un plug it come spring to extend it life.
I actually wanted to do a metal Valley but I could not find a retailer that had it available around me . None of the big Box stores carry it around where I live
i thought you were supposed to do the lower side first and then do the top side after? idk from the video it seem like you did the opposite.
Thanks man!
How did your valley turn out with raining and winds? I'm going to do this too. It looks great!!!
thanks man
Hmm it looks like you did the steeper side first which is wrong👀
Looks are deceiving both same pitch
If you’re using shingles as your starter course you have to put them upside down so the tar side is down towards the gutter edge you have yours right side up !
3:01 He did.
Actually know a roofer I work w sometimes and when he was a contractor for gaf they taught them to put the shingles upside down, nail them when you lay your first shingle over the starter it will stick to that shingle, but idk I do it the way you’re talking ab too just what I heard
They put a gadge on the nail gun for a reason. What's with all this measuring . and your step book should be no less then 5" but should be 5 an 5/8".
You should quit worrying about leaks... you gonna have blow offs to worry about, with where you are nailing your shingles 😂🤦🏼♂️
Theyll be fine prob. These shingles seal good. If it were a steep then im not sure
Honestly that is my only complaint for this whole video considering hes not a "roofer"
But then again I've seen "roofers" make worse mistakes lmao
He missed the bottom shingles when he hit the strip🤣
Also felt paper does NOT go in valleys! You need ice and water shield in all valleys and along your edges That’s what stops leaks in valley
Lmao 🤣 I've seen so many jobs that Had no under layment that didn't leak 💀 this guy is a clown its how you water proof the roof thats your job been doing this 10 years plus dudes a clown 🤡 just know that
It is definitely the install that waterproofs everything but the underlayment has to be installed regardless as a prevention for water intrusion, snow, and wind driven rain. Even if ice and water isn’t required in your state I feel like it’s a good guard considering the roof is going to be there for 20-25 years.
Great video
curious to know how this is holding up ?
Zero issues to date.
Since you are doing by your self so how much you pay for meterial ?
$3,500
@taylorgordon93 1 story and like a 6/12 in most places easy work
3500 seems low as fuck tho considering a square of shingles is about 90 bucks or so and then the cost of ice and water/ synthetic paper/ nails/ step flashing/ tar and possible pipe boots/metal for chimney
Plus ridge vent because with a house this big unless you have a big overhang vented sofet wont be enough ventilation ( dont see any vents on house)
I know it's wrong because i did it 😂
Ohhh I feel his pain there 🤣
i would have roofed the lower side first.... this would have your high side lap facing down ..not up to the roof like you did..
Closed valleys are a compromise strictly because its faster, cheaper and easier than a proper open valley using W flashing.
And you did the valley backwards......should have roofed the lower section first! You installed a sealant which will help.....but if done properly you wouldnt need that......
The way the camera is positioned makes the pitch look higher on that roof, they are both the same and wouldn't matter which way the valley went. Some folks can't afford a metal valley and professional roofing crew. The reason that I'm doing this and sharing as a DIY person is for the money saved. I had a quote for$14 grand to do my roof and it cost me just under $4,000 . The same crew that qave me the estimate did a neighbors roof . They roofed right over an existing 3 tab roof. The neighbor may have requested that move but by no means would I call that crew professional. As far as the California valley being a shortcut or "not good enough" or will cost money in the long-term. Let's face it a so called 30 year roof doesn't last 30 years and you'll be back at it soon enough. If I had the money I would higher a crew to roof my house every 10 years, but I don't so i will have to attack it myself. I could have roofed my house 3 times for the money saved. Oh BTW no leaks as of today on that valley.
Why would this way cost more in the long eh un?
Are you a certified government roofer eh? Well i am....so here are the reasons...the exposure of a laminated shingle installed in California valley has potential to constrict water flow .....second where your california shingle line up in the valley itself is potential for a leak if its not covered by the shingle that you are applying over.....plus doesnt look nice and tells me that you are not confident or capable of cutting a nice valley . Would rather cut corners eh?
Canadian and proud of it eh! Keep your 'california valley' where it belongs eh! On your house... lol eh! Lmao eh!
David Lysohirka LMFAO!!! I have no idea where the “eh un” came from. I’m not Canadian. I’m Bahamian. Also, I’m a roofer that has learned how to do a valley only with the flashing, and I have seen this style valley a few times around The Bahamas, and wondered which one is better. I’ve never done a valley like this but it looks good
Nice sheet metal shears ... And ya pressure on ya compressor is too high... Ya nail is going to deep in the shingle...
You cannot nail in valleys bottom line
Neat
Its cald a California valley
French drain long az u ice and water seal top nail fat az u can
Once again the unnecessary bead of tar.. Icegaurd, felt, tar and shingle.. over kill.
🤣🤣
5.5 inches is not acceptable on that pitch.....minimum 8"
Negative. 5.5 is fine
@@Jacno77 8 is the way better for vents
California valleys are horrible...thats why they a quick and easy.....like most things in construction......short cuts end up costing someone more in the end....a closed/cut valley is great but metal valley are the best......in 22 years in the trade (red seal since 2003).....i have installed a valley this way.......
@taylorgordon93 alive and well.....trade certification reads 'certified waterproofing and damproofing' red seal with my name on it dating back to 2003. Finished top marks over three year average at 98.5%.....we take our roofing serious up north, roofing in the mountains ❄🌨🌩
Well methods nowadays aren't meant to last. Welcome to capitalism