I took mine to a local machine shop and they installed my cam bearings and cam for no charge. If you have any questions they we’re happy to explain. They also asked me if I liked rebuilding these engines and if I did they could send as much work my way, as much as I wanted. They didn’t have time for these little engines.
Great video by the way. As I mentioned in earlier segments you really need to clean the gasket surfaces before assembly. That way you do not risk contaminating the installed parts.
Hello Sr. My 318 has a B48G installed since I’ve got it and it has been running great. This week it just stopped running and in my troubleshooting I found out I had no spark. I figured it would be the condenser or the points and since they were old I ordered new ones. Now as I was replacing that while turning the engine by hand to fine tune the points I noticed that the plunge was not going up and down, so I started to look further and it seems like the camshaft isn’t turning as I turn the engine. What could it be? Maybe that trust wash let it loose or could it be something even worse than that? Recent oil changes all good and no weird noise up to this point that could indicate something terrible was going on. Any guidance will be much appreciated.
Is it normal for the camshaft to pop out a little when near top dead center when rotating the crank? I know the thrust washer is there to prevent the cam from walking out past the crank gear but on mine when I cycle the engine with a ratchet using the pto bolt everything is nice and tight until occasionally when it gets around to near tdc the pressure on the valve lifters relaxes and the cam seems to pop out slightly from the block up against the thrust washer. Just had concerns it shouldn't be moving like that??
I've noticed on mine the rear bearing has been replaced and it sets just past the points plunger. Problem is, in that location it was only using half the bearing surface on the cam?? I found this chasing a knock. And can see only about 1/4 or less of cam actually on the bearing. Ever seen this?
Hmm, I think I would need to see a picture to fully visualize what you are saying. Basically the cam bearing has been pushed in too far. Almost like they put the bearing in wrong..... and instead of fixing it right they just pushed it in too far? I have seen that before... a couple times.
More like it wasn't pressed in far enough is a better way of explaining it. I did probably exactly what you just described and I pressed it in more so it flush with bearing surface on the cam (For now). And see if that helps. Now, I'm asking my local machine shop Monday if he can install replaceable rod bearings as well, one makes me concerned after further investigation.
The manual says to push the rear bearing past the breaker points shaft.... yours does not appear to have done this..!?? Shouldn't the rear cam bearing have been pushed in so that the breaker points shaft can reach the cam lobe that operates it??
That is a great point. Originally the cam bearings were solid rings and you did have to push the bearings past the plunger hole. The newer style bearings that are offered have cut outs for the points plunger. Hope that makes sense. I should have stated that in the video. onanparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4
I have been watching an you do goods but I All ways oil rods.pisto rings an crank I did not see you use any.you may have but I didn't see .the rods caps well be dry like that .just asking
red loctite... that is unnecessary. It is an oil fed bearing and it is press fit into the block. Loctite is just creating a problem down when that bearing has to be replaced.
The red loctite does have the potential to cause issues if the bearings need to be removed again. However, the red loctite was recommended by several people that have rebuilt many of these engines. Additionally, I have removed several of these cam bearings that had red loctite holding them in. Of all the Onan’s I’ve torn down over the years at least 75% had a cam bearing that had moved. I have seen no evidence of blue loctite on any bearing I’ve removed. Maybe I’m wrong, but it’s the way that I’ve done it and it works for me.
I took mine to a local machine shop and they installed my cam bearings and cam for no charge. If you have any questions they we’re happy to explain. They also asked me if I liked rebuilding these engines and if I did they could send as much work my way, as much as I wanted. They didn’t have time for these little engines.
Very good video, and what a wonderful and innovative way of installing the bearings! Bravo!
i used to dry ice the bearing and heat up the block, slip right in
I don't suggest using loctite on the cam bearings. It can interfere with the heat transfer.
Great video by the way. As I mentioned in earlier segments you really need to clean the gasket surfaces before assembly. That way you do not risk contaminating the installed parts.
Hello Sr. My 318 has a B48G installed since I’ve got it and it has been running great. This week it just stopped running and in my troubleshooting I found out I had no spark. I figured it would be the condenser or the points and since they were old I ordered new ones. Now as I was replacing that while turning the engine by hand to fine tune the points I noticed that the plunge was not going up and down, so I started to look further and it seems like the camshaft isn’t turning as I turn the engine. What could it be? Maybe that trust wash let it loose or could it be something even worse than that? Recent oil changes all good and no weird noise up to this point that could indicate something terrible was going on. Any guidance will be much appreciated.
Place tape on the inside surface of the cam bearings so you don't nick the surface with the all thread. After installation you can remove the tape.
what method did you use to remove the cam and/or main bearings? is there a special tool to remove them properly?
Is it normal for the camshaft to pop out a little when near top dead center when rotating the crank? I know the thrust washer is there to prevent the cam from walking out past the crank gear but on mine when I cycle the engine with a ratchet using the pto bolt everything is nice and tight until occasionally when it gets around to near tdc the pressure on the valve lifters relaxes and the cam seems to pop out slightly from the block up against the thrust washer. Just had concerns it shouldn't be moving like that??
I have the same issue? Bring this alive again lol
I've noticed on mine the rear bearing has been replaced and it sets just past the points plunger. Problem is, in that location it was only using half the bearing surface on the cam?? I found this chasing a knock. And can see only about 1/4 or less of cam actually on the bearing. Ever seen this?
Hmm, I think I would need to see a picture to fully visualize what you are saying. Basically the cam bearing has been pushed in too far. Almost like they put the bearing in wrong..... and instead of fixing it right they just pushed it in too far? I have seen that before... a couple times.
More like it wasn't pressed in far enough is a better way of explaining it. I did probably exactly what you just described and I pressed it in more so it flush with bearing surface on the cam (For now). And see if that helps. Now, I'm asking my local machine shop Monday if he can install replaceable rod bearings as well, one makes me concerned after further investigation.
Does anyone make bigger cams? Any thoughts on going for more power?
Do the washers fit the other bearing location, which is recessed behind the plug?
Yes, the washers fit for both cam bearings. Realistically the bearings are identical on both ends.
The manual says to push the rear bearing past the breaker points shaft.... yours does not appear to have done this..!?? Shouldn't the rear cam bearing have been pushed in so that the breaker points shaft can reach the cam lobe that operates it??
That is a great point. Originally the cam bearings were solid rings and you did have to push the bearings past the plunger hole. The newer style bearings that are offered have cut outs for the points plunger. Hope that makes sense. I should have stated that in the video.
onanparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4
No need to rotate the cam each time. It is only for the first lobe entering.
I have been watching an you do goods but I All ways oil rods.pisto rings an crank I did not see you use any.you may have but I didn't see .the rods caps well be dry like that .just asking
red loctite... that is unnecessary. It is an oil fed bearing and it is press fit into the block. Loctite is just creating a problem down when that bearing has to be replaced.
The red loctite does have the potential to cause issues if the bearings need to be removed again. However, the red loctite was recommended by several people that have rebuilt many of these engines. Additionally, I have removed several of these cam bearings that had red loctite holding them in. Of all the Onan’s I’ve torn down over the years at least 75% had a cam bearing that had moved. I have seen no evidence of blue loctite on any bearing I’ve removed. Maybe I’m wrong, but it’s the way that I’ve done it and it works for me.
It's just me...I would detail clean that block for free.