I still remember my first ride on a coolite (flat piece of foam about 5ft long) at Scarborough Beach West Oz. Must have been 10 to 15ft, or maybe at least 1ft hey. I was about 5 or 6 yrs old and this board had blown in with the sea breeze and landed right at my feet. Having seen my older brother and his mates surfing had me triggered so i was out there in about knee deep of water and i just stood up and waited for the 6inch monster to wash me in. Made it to the shore first ride and it just blew me away. I must have repeated this about a hundred times that arvo.This was mid 1960's. The buzz was an instant addiction for all things surfing and the ocean. Got me into trouble with school and my employers until I was 40yrs old. And then I worked very little for myself and surfed until I couldn't.😂 Still got the buzz all these years later and still get barrelled having a body bash. Ya never late to ya feet body surfing. Stay cool and thanks for the memories🤙🤙🤙 Lyonsy
Hi Lyonse, thanks for watching our video and sharing your experience with surfing. I never grew up by the sea but for some reason always had a massive draw to the ocean and thought to myself how cool surfing must be, even remember subscribing to ZIG ZAG (a South African surf magazine ) Had my first go at surfing when I was 20 and almost killed myself doing it lol. Now 42 and only really been surfing for 3 years since we moved from London to Cornwall have I really started experiencing the epic feeling of riding waves and just being in the water. Maybe one day you and I can go for a board meeting. Anyway thanks again for sharing stay tuned there is some exciting news coming up soon. Have an epic day Marc
I still remember my first ride on a coolite (flat piece of foam about 5ft long) at Scarborough Beach West Oz. Must have been 10 to 15ft, or maybe at least 1ft hey. I was about 5 or 6 yrs old and this board had blown in with the sea breeze and landed right at my feet. Having seen my older brother and his mates surfing had me triggered so i was out there in about knee deep of water and i just stood up and waited for the 6inch monster to wash me in. Made it to the shore first ride and it just blew me away. I must have repeated this about a hundred times that arvo.This was mid 1960's. The buzz was an instant addiction for all things surfing and the ocean. Got me into trouble with school and my employers until I was 40yrs old. And then I worked very little for myself and surfed until I couldn't.😂
Still got the buzz all these years later and still get barrelled having a body bash. Ya never late to ya feet body surfing. Stay cool and thanks for the memories🤙🤙🤙
Lyonsy
Hi Lyonse, thanks for watching our video and sharing your experience with surfing. I never grew up by the sea but for some reason always had a massive draw to the ocean and thought to myself how cool surfing must be, even remember subscribing to ZIG ZAG (a South African surf magazine ) Had my first go at surfing when I was 20 and almost killed myself doing it lol. Now 42 and only really been surfing for 3 years since we moved from London to Cornwall have I really started experiencing the epic feeling of riding waves and just being in the water. Maybe one day you and I can go for a board meeting. Anyway thanks again for sharing stay tuned there is some exciting news coming up soon. Have an epic day Marc