Also i just found out a new technique today to make flames! Lol. And with the splotches. I ano a low volt color like bronze then mask lines into it then ano again but at a high volts then removing the mask by rubbing the edges of the lines you ano another color but higher than the low but lower than the high volt color. Sounds like a mouth full but gives a cool pattern.
And with flame pattern. Ano the scale blue, then using whink but on a cue tip stsrt gently rubbing the basic shape of a lightning bolt or flame thrower shape, then apply more and more when needed and watch it slowly change to purple then the main part of the flame rub more and it'll become bronze and the very very middle will be bare titanium and it'll look like a flame with purple outlining the flame shape with blue on the outside and bronze and bare titanium in the middle. And you can manipulate the cue tip in a way to make flames like if you brush water on something. Because thats whats your doing essentially
I'm picking up what you're laying down. Had to really put my thinking cap on to put that together in my head, but that's a great idea! I'll have to try that one out myself, sounds like it would come out awesome!
That's an awesome tip! Had to pin that! Thanks for Sharing! By all means, feel free to share any and all tips that come your way. The more info I can get together all in one place on here, the better. I'd like this channel to be sort of a one stop shop for all things anodizing.
Thanks, glad you're digging it! If you're interested in this, I think you're really going to like what I'm filming as we speak! Stay tuned, and thanks for watching!!!👍🏼✌🏼👊🏼🍻
I know where you can find some links to get more😉😜🤣 But seriously, you're idea was awesome bro! Definitely something I want to keep in the idea arsenal!
I have some titanium bolts I want to “flame anodize” where the edges are bright blue and fade to purple and gold towards the center of the bolt. Some of these bolts are small, so I’m going to try this method to keep the color right at the edges. My questions for you are: 1: What type of material was the needle made out of? Does it need to be titanium or stainless steel? 2: I see you have the positive connected to the knife scale, and it’s laid nice and flat. With a bolt, this is much more difficult. Would you think it would be better to connect the positive alligator clip directly to the base of the bolt, or make a brass rod with threaded hole on one side to screw the bolt into to stand up, and connect positive to that? 3: Lastly, does the bolt need to be soaked or sprayed with that solution the paper was soaked in? Or will grounding the bolt be enough to be able to drag the needle across the edges dry? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
Does this work on titanium that has already been bronze anodized? I'd love to have one done to resemble how medford knives does on their DLT Trading exclusives. The scale is bronze but then the lines are added with colors that go from purple/blue/silver etc.
Bronze is the first color that appears when anodizing, so you should be able to cover the bronze wish some sort of masking, then anodize the other colors on any part that isn't masked to achieve the look you're going for.
This looks simple to do. Does it work on other metals? I have a RUIKE P108 & P801 that I would like to attempt it on. But also, could you get the splotches with a sponge soaked in the solution?
Thanks Vel! The knife I use in the video is a Zero Tolerance 0900 designed by Les George, coupled with a complete MXG Gear titanium hardware and deep carry pocket clip upgrade. You can't really see it in this video, but in some of them you can.
Do you own the TekPower TP12001x ? if you do, can you get the full spectrum of colors with it and is it user friendly and reliable? do you prefer the 9v batteries over the TekPower?
I don't have it yet, but my buddy does. I'm buying one for myself in a few weeks. I've used his though and it works great! It will give you the full spectrum of colors, it has been very reliable for him, and it's super easy to use. I'll be doing a full review and demo once mine arrives if you're interested, but I absolutely prefer that over 9V's. You have so much more control and fine tuning of colors, plus it's 100% repeatable over multiple parts. Totally recommend it, for sure!
I'm not saying you can't do an excellent ano job with 9V's, because I've been doing it that way for years now, but the power supply definitely makes things easier. The other advantage to the power supply is the ability to do true black anodizing. I can't do that with the 9V's. I'll have a video on that coming out shortly as well. Stay tuned!
No problem, thanks for watching! You can really get quite a few anodizing jobs out of a set of 9V's, but if you do have to replace them then the cost does start to add up. All things considered, it isn't a bad deal for the power supply.
What type of finish is on the titanium? I want to anodize a stonewashed handle but fear the colors wont come out as vibrant. Best wat to remove stonewash? Sandpaper?
You could anodize with it being stonewashed just as long as you make sure to etch it well. With a good etch you'll get vibrant color. If you wanted to remove the stonewash first though you can always use a scotch-brite pad. That won't eat up your scales at all like sandpaper can. Just remember to go only in one direction so you don't leave weird marks.
Thank you for the video 👍 can you please make a video showing how to make what I believe is called the nebula pattern. It looks some what like timascus.
Thanks! I used to use batteries when I was just doing anodizing as a hobby, but once I started incorporating anodizing into my rings I decided to purchase a bench top power supply. I've linked to the exact unit I use in the video description if you're interested. Works great and is much easier dialing in a specific voltage (color). I did use the 9V Battery method for years though. It works great, but requires a bit more work to get the exact colors you're trying to achieve.
Thanks! I have done something very similar. I have a few videos that are filmed and just about ready to be released, but as soon as those are finished I'll work on throwing up a vid on it for ya.
@@KCMotown Thanks brotha! I'm trying to get the black anodizing video up either today or tomorrow, then I have a few other ones in various stages of editing, but I'll put that on the to-do list. Stay tuned!
Not a stupid question at all, I should have probably said it in the video. Yeah, just regular printer paper. Good luck with your projects! If you run into any issues with anything, feel free to ask me any questions you might have. 👍🏼
Thanks for the great videos! I tried the bath anodizing and it worked like a hot damn! ...but can't get the needle anodizing to work. Any ideas why? Was you paper just soaked in water, or with the baking soda solution? Also can't get Whink to remove the anodization, but I'm in Canada, so thinking they maybe sell less aggressive solution here? Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks again! :-)
Hey! Glad to hear the bath worked out well for you! As far as the needle anodizing is concerned, the paper was completely soaked with the electrolyte baking soda bath solution. Now as far as the Whink is concerned, you're the 2nd Canadian to tell me that it didn't work for you. We went as far as contacting Rustoleum, the company that makes Whink. We asked flat out if Canada was receiving a watered down version of the stuff. We were sure that their response was going to lead us to an answer, but when the Rustoleum guy got back to us he said it is the identical product that's sold here in the states. I find that even harder to believe now that you're telling me that you're having a problem with it as well. That's crazy! You're best bet might be Multi-Etch if you can get that up there. Don't know if you've looked into that or not, but worth a shot.
@@ApollosRings Thanks for the quick response! Have ordered a power supply, so think I'm going to break the bank and get some Multi-Etch, too. Hopefully it's the same formulation in Canada!
I believe you should be good with the Multi-Etch, but I thought that about the Whink too, lol. Multi-etch is acid free though, so you shouldn't have any issues getting that there.
I have a ZT 0055 that I’d like to try some anodizing on, but it seems to have a coating on the scales and clip. Any tips to get that off efficiently? Also was this just a normal stainless steel needle you used in the video?
Yes, the needle was just an ordinary stainless sewing needle. As far as the coating is concerned, you could try acetone, but if that doesn't cut it you may need to mechanically remove the coating. I've run into a coating before, it sucks when they do that. I sanded it off and re-polished the titanium just going through the grits of sandpaper. I started at 400 and went in small increments up to 2500 grit. Sandblasting is an option too if you have access to a sandblaster, or walnut blaster. The sanding takes some time, but if you go that route you can really fine tune the finish exactly the way you like. I have some tips for finishing if you do go that route. Not sure if you have a Dremel, but there's a great attachment that gives an excellent finish. It's a sort of scotch-brite pad, and it comes out amazing.
SharpKnifeNuts it’s still got the titanium color to it, just fairly dull instead of the polished look. Could just be stonewash or tumbled, hard to say and I can’t find anything online about the finish on it. Thanks for the info though man!
It just clicked after reading your last 2 posts, if it's a ZT there shouldn't be a coating. Bead blasted is just a way of finishing the titanium, not a seperate coating. As long as it's bead blasted ZT titanium you shouldn't have to remove anything.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I have a cool idea to add splotches
I can dig it! What colors would you do?
Also i just found out a new technique today to make flames! Lol. And with the splotches. I ano a low volt color like bronze then mask lines into it then ano again but at a high volts then removing the mask by rubbing the edges of the lines you ano another color but higher than the low but lower than the high volt color. Sounds like a mouth full but gives a cool pattern.
And with flame pattern. Ano the scale blue, then using whink but on a cue tip stsrt gently rubbing the basic shape of a lightning bolt or flame thrower shape, then apply more and more when needed and watch it slowly change to purple then the main part of the flame rub more and it'll become bronze and the very very middle will be bare titanium and it'll look like a flame with purple outlining the flame shape with blue on the outside and bronze and bare titanium in the middle. And you can manipulate the cue tip in a way to make flames like if you brush water on something. Because thats whats your doing essentially
I'm picking up what you're laying down. Had to really put my thinking cap on to put that together in my head, but that's a great idea! I'll have to try that one out myself, sounds like it would come out awesome!
That's an awesome tip! Had to pin that! Thanks for Sharing! By all means, feel free to share any and all tips that come your way. The more info I can get together all in one place on here, the better. I'd like this channel to be sort of a one stop shop for all things anodizing.
Can a precise coloring be done with anodizing.?
Bro, that looks sick.
Thanks bud! 👍🏼👊🏼
Thats really cool, bad ass cool. Nice creativity! Way to go!
Thank you 👍🏼 and thanks for watching!
Sweet video!
Thank you!
Do custom vinyl stencils and then anodize and then peel off to make amazing layers and patterns!
That looks fantastic. Thank you for the demo. Your videos are excellent!
Thanks for watching! 👊🏼
I just got the twosun ts 311 and I'm going to add just a little coloring on the back spacer and pocket clip.
Should I remove thier Grey finish first.
THAT is BADASS !!....cant belive I am jus now findin this ....subb'd & thanks for the KILLER content !!
Thanks, glad you're digging it! If you're interested in this, I think you're really going to like what I'm filming as we speak! Stay tuned, and thanks for watching!!!👍🏼✌🏼👊🏼🍻
Just started anodizing recently and really appreciate the ideas
Glad I could help!
This is so cool
That's so awesome brother! 🤙
Thank you!
Thanks! I'm gonna do this. Looks like some sort of Les George there.
Thanks for making the videos I have pretty much learned to anodize by watching your channel.
Glad you've gotten something from the videos, that's awesome! Thanks for watching!
That turned out pretty good. Glad my idea worked out for you. I might give another shot some day, but I ran out of some of my ingredients.
I know where you can find some links to get more😉😜🤣 But seriously, you're idea was awesome bro! Definitely something I want to keep in the idea arsenal!
@@ApollosRings Thanks man!
👍🏼
Very cool!
So does this only work on titanium? Wondering if it works on aluminum or other metals
It does work on other reactive metals like niobium and zirconium, but unfortunately it does not work on aluminum or stainless steel.
Awesome video! Thank you.
Glad you liked it!
I have some titanium bolts I want to “flame anodize” where the edges are bright blue and fade to purple and gold towards the center of the bolt. Some of these bolts are small, so I’m going to try this method to keep the color right at the edges. My questions for you are:
1: What type of material was the needle made out of? Does it need to be titanium or stainless steel?
2: I see you have the positive connected to the knife scale, and it’s laid nice and flat. With a bolt, this is much more difficult. Would you think it would be better to connect the positive alligator clip directly to the base of the bolt, or make a brass rod with threaded hole on one side to screw the bolt into to stand up, and connect positive to that?
3: Lastly, does the bolt need to be soaked or sprayed with that solution the paper was soaked in? Or will grounding the bolt be enough to be able to drag the needle across the edges dry?
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!!
Does this work on titanium that has already been bronze anodized? I'd love to have one done to resemble how medford knives does on their DLT Trading exclusives. The scale is bronze but then the lines are added with colors that go from purple/blue/silver etc.
Bronze is the first color that appears when anodizing, so you should be able to cover the bronze wish some sort of masking, then anodize the other colors on any part that isn't masked to achieve the look you're going for.
So that means you can just use an electrode like you would have on a multimeter right? I've use Qtips before too.
This looks simple to do. Does it work on other metals? I have a RUIKE P108 & P801 that I would like to attempt it on. But also, could you get the splotches with a sponge soaked in the solution?
Yeah, definitely, I have a video up on the channel on that exact process if you want to check it out.
Wow… How are you? Are not screaming and jumping up and down I will never know! I am new to this process… What is the liquid?
Very cool! Do you know where to get some scrap titanium to practice with before I mess with my nice Benchmade?
Can we do that colour at metal,almunium?
looks great, whats the knife that you use in these vids?
Thanks Vel! The knife I use in the video is a Zero Tolerance 0900 designed by Les George, coupled with a complete MXG Gear titanium hardware and deep carry pocket clip upgrade. You can't really see it in this video, but in some of them you can.
I want to see a copper coil Ano.
Do you own the TekPower TP12001x ? if you do, can you get the full spectrum of colors with it and is it user friendly and reliable? do you prefer the 9v batteries over the TekPower?
I don't have it yet, but my buddy does. I'm buying one for myself in a few weeks. I've used his though and it works great! It will give you the full spectrum of colors, it has been very reliable for him, and it's super easy to use. I'll be doing a full review and demo once mine arrives if you're interested, but I absolutely prefer that over 9V's. You have so much more control and fine tuning of colors, plus it's 100% repeatable over multiple parts. Totally recommend it, for sure!
I'm not saying you can't do an excellent ano job with 9V's, because I've been doing it that way for years now, but the power supply definitely makes things easier. The other advantage to the power supply is the ability to do true black anodizing. I can't do that with the 9V's. I'll have a video on that coming out shortly as well. Stay tuned!
thank you for the reply, with the cost of 9V's it seems like a good investment if it works well. I've been loving your videos, thank you for sharing.
No problem, thanks for watching! You can really get quite a few anodizing jobs out of a set of 9V's, but if you do have to replace them then the cost does start to add up. All things considered, it isn't a bad deal for the power supply.
What type of finish is on the titanium? I want to anodize a stonewashed handle but fear the colors wont come out as vibrant. Best wat to remove stonewash? Sandpaper?
You could anodize with it being stonewashed just as long as you make sure to etch it well. With a good etch you'll get vibrant color. If you wanted to remove the stonewash first though you can always use a scotch-brite pad. That won't eat up your scales at all like sandpaper can. Just remember to go only in one direction so you don't leave weird marks.
This video helped me a ton. I made a flame pattern on my titanium suppressor. I get comments at the range every single time out
That's awesome! I'd love to see it if you feel like sharing. ApollosRings@gmail.com
@@ApollosRings I definitely will once this storms over. I work for a utility.
What voltage were you using? Cool technique! 😃
I thought it was pretty cool too! I think it was around 36 volts. If I remember correctly it was 3 or 4 9V batteries.
Thank you for the video 👍 can you please make a video showing how to make what I believe is called the nebula pattern. It looks some what like timascus.
I'll add that to the list of videos for sure! 👍🏼
Can you use NiTi wire to anodize titanium?
I honestly haven't tried it, but I don't think it'll work correctly
Do you use 9v batteries? Great Video ❤🤟
Thanks! I used to use batteries when I was just doing anodizing as a hobby, but once I started incorporating anodizing into my rings I decided to purchase a bench top power supply. I've linked to the exact unit I use in the video description if you're interested. Works great and is much easier dialing in a specific voltage (color). I did use the 9V Battery method for years though. It works great, but requires a bit more work to get the exact colors you're trying to achieve.
Awesome video! Have you done any “war torn” anodizing?
Thanks! I have done something very similar. I have a few videos that are filmed and just about ready to be released, but as soon as those are finished I'll work on throwing up a vid on it for ya.
SharpKnifeNuts I’m clueless as to how it’s done. It’s such a cool look with multiple colors! Love watching your videos buddy!
@@KCMotown Thanks brotha! I'm trying to get the black anodizing video up either today or tomorrow, then I have a few other ones in various stages of editing, but I'll put that on the to-do list. Stay tuned!
Awesome! Looking forward too the videos!
Probably a stupid question but was that just standard printer paper? Thanks for the videos man. Can’t wait to try some of this stuff.
Not a stupid question at all, I should have probably said it in the video. Yeah, just regular printer paper. Good luck with your projects! If you run into any issues with anything, feel free to ask me any questions you might have. 👍🏼
SharpKnifeNuts was wondering this as well glad someone asked and great idea! Thank you for making a video of this.
Glad I can help out with the videos. Thanks for watching!
That's really cool.Great work thank you for the video.
Thanks for the great videos! I tried the bath anodizing and it worked like a hot damn! ...but can't get the needle anodizing to work. Any ideas why? Was you paper just soaked in water, or with the baking soda solution?
Also can't get Whink to remove the anodization, but I'm in Canada, so thinking they maybe sell less aggressive solution here? Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks again! :-)
Hey! Glad to hear the bath worked out well for you!
As far as the needle anodizing is concerned, the paper was completely soaked with the electrolyte baking soda bath solution.
Now as far as the Whink is concerned, you're the 2nd Canadian to tell me that it didn't work for you. We went as far as contacting Rustoleum, the company that makes Whink. We asked flat out if Canada was receiving a watered down version of the stuff. We were sure that their response was going to lead us to an answer, but when the Rustoleum guy got back to us he said it is the identical product that's sold here in the states. I find that even harder to believe now that you're telling me that you're having a problem with it as well. That's crazy!
You're best bet might be Multi-Etch if you can get that up there. Don't know if you've looked into that or not, but worth a shot.
@@ApollosRings Thanks for the quick response! Have ordered a power supply, so think I'm going to break the bank and get some Multi-Etch, too. Hopefully it's the same formulation in Canada!
I believe you should be good with the Multi-Etch, but I thought that about the Whink too, lol. Multi-etch is acid free though, so you shouldn't have any issues getting that there.
I found yes
I have a ZT 0055 that I’d like to try some anodizing on, but it seems to have a coating on the scales and clip. Any tips to get that off efficiently? Also was this just a normal stainless steel needle you used in the video?
Yes, the needle was just an ordinary stainless sewing needle.
As far as the coating is concerned, you could try acetone, but if that doesn't cut it you may need to mechanically remove the coating. I've run into a coating before, it sucks when they do that. I sanded it off and re-polished the titanium just going through the grits of sandpaper. I started at 400 and went in small increments up to 2500 grit. Sandblasting is an option too if you have access to a sandblaster, or walnut blaster. The sanding takes some time, but if you go that route you can really fine tune the finish exactly the way you like. I have some tips for finishing if you do go that route. Not sure if you have a Dremel, but there's a great attachment that gives an excellent finish. It's a sort of scotch-brite pad, and it comes out amazing.
SharpKnifeNuts it’s still got the titanium color to it, just fairly dull instead of the polished look. Could just be stonewash or tumbled, hard to say and I can’t find anything online about the finish on it. Thanks for the info though man!
SharpKnifeNuts okay, I just figured out on ZT’s website that it’s bead blast..so that should be fairly easy to remove.
It just clicked after reading your last 2 posts, if it's a ZT there shouldn't be a coating. Bead blasted is just a way of finishing the titanium, not a seperate coating. As long as it's bead blasted ZT titanium you shouldn't have to remove anything.
SharpKnifeNuts sweet, i may try to cut some of it just to get more of a polished look. Thanks though!
Where can I buy that electric voltage?
I have a direct link for the power supply in all of my video descriptions 👍🏼
Can you write on the knife with that method? Nice video!
Yeah, you definitely could. The needle makes it much easier. Thanks for watching! 😉👍🏼
Hi sir
is that paper sir?
Yes, just plain paper soaked in an electrolyte solution
@@ApollosRings 50v sir is that perfect color?
Amazing !