This is awesome! I want to make a suitcase that looks like a flight case, do you mind posting what kind of materials they are so I can get my list together to get at the hardware store? I gotta figure out how to rivet but I want to make myself a nice one! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Hello ! How much time did you take to build it, once you had the materials ? Considering building 3 or 4 for large TVs, I'd like to have your bet (as I will need more time still, to add the internal supportive parts for them). Thank you.
I had to do it my way, because casemaker profiles only comes in 1 meter length. There was very little hardware to be found, premade for 2 meter long cases. Casemaker profiles seems to be double the price, so its a trade-off between your time and money. But I would properly buy casemaker profiles for cases that are less than 1 meter :)
Not quite :) In my youth I was very fond of a Norwegian band called Kaizers Orchestra. The idea of the band members and their fans taking Kaizer as a lastname was a cult thing.
Did you try looking for wood used in concrete pouring form building? A more expensive version is used for construction of trailers, but also better quality.
Would instead of using the nails and wood glue use instead some slow curing epoxy or urethane sealer, along with drilling the holes for the nails, and replacing them with countersunk long thin chipboard screws. Inside you simply wipe the edges of the seams before the urethane cures, on all except for the base, as this is likely to have another base panel inside, so there you can cut the excess flush with the panel after the lid is cut with the saw. Long screws give a lot of rigidity, and using the urethane sealer means the case sections are never going to delaminate, plus you can use the same urethane to bond the aluminium edges on, so they will not come off except after major damage. I have done the chipboard screw thing often, and the failure is the wood breaking, though I do cheat and use fine thread quality drywall screws often, as they will self drill the hole, but even the chipboard screws work well.
Which thickness panels do you use? I would love to have used 12 or 15 mm for sturdiness, but the weight of the added thickness was a big no. All the aluminum rails does all the rigidity, but I can foresee that some years of use and replacement of rivets to bolt+washer+nut might be necessary if the rivets are stressed enough to break the wood.
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk Cheapest panels by me are 18mm, so used those. Yes thinner panels are better, but using an even glue bond will mean no rivets needed. Just some stretchy tape to hold the panels and edges together for the cure time of the urethane, which will probably mean a day of tape. I used the shutterply to make simple shelving, and did the dimensions to use the full sheet with only a single cut width. Thus the edge screws, to get a strong joint.
@@SeanBZA woah yeah 18 mm is never going to happen with big boxes like this! That would be 80 kg just for the big box! You are not using rivets on the aluminum rails?
You have a very unique look and accent. Have you ever thought acting? No homo. Thanks for the video bro, I’m still trying to see if it’s worth the time to build a case for my DJ lighting, this was very helpful
Gutentag! Hello from Seattle, WA USA. My family is German and it's like my father always said: Germans don't just manufacture, they engineer. I think you've got a great thing going on. Would you ever be interested in selling your cases? I've got a distribution channel already set up in North America. I think you've got a great product line and I'd like to represent it.
Cheap? Haha in the Bauhaus store where I live, that concrete mold plywood is 3 times more expensive than regular plywood, because of the waterproofing. :D But it's definitely worth it, because you don't have to paint it or put any kind of faux leather over it.
How much more does concrete mold plywood weigh? Is it the same? I'm very interested in your reply. Thank you my friend! I'm in Seattle, USA and I'm starting to build these cases. I really enjoy the work and I love the marketplace selling to really nice/cool people. I could use some advice if you can. Danke!
@@ericweiler6571 I just checked. The waterproof/anti-slip boards are 2.5 x 1.25m. 9 mm board weighs 19 kg, 12 mm is 25 kg, 15 mm is 31 kg, 18 mm is 41 kg, and 21 mm is 44 kg. I used 9mm board to make a really lightweight case and it worked really well (with rivets and aluminium single angle extrusions). Btw, the 9mm board costs 119€ and the 21mm is 189€, so it's pretty expensive, but since it's already waterproof and has a nice finish, I guess it's worth it. Your mileage may vary :D
There was no static load calculations done before hand. Just based on cheapest and easiest to get, so yes, they became heavier than they could have been.
The pointer for the total price in the spreadsheet is at a wrong place :( The total is around ~500$ for the 3 boxes.
Sehr schön und auch sehr günstig!
'Wow look at that baby'....eyes shining
9:44 Timestamp in the video. I Think we see true love :)
Wet eyes and everything :)
This is awesome! I want to make a suitcase that looks like a flight case, do you mind posting what kind of materials they are so I can get my list together to get at the hardware store? I gotta figure out how to rivet but I want to make myself a nice one! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
What materials exactly? I am pretty sure I mention it all in the video.
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk oh my mistake, I missed the named of the walls your using. I'll go back to refer the video👍🏾
@@miguelzamora2011 I am not sure of the name, its the cheap laminated wood used for concrete pouring.
If anyone needs a stencil, I make them. I have vinyl cutters as well as screen and pad printing. I'm happy to help out my fellow flight case makers!
Hello ! How much time did you take to build it, once you had the materials ? Considering building 3 or 4 for large TVs, I'd like to have your bet (as I will need more time still, to add the internal supportive parts for them). Thank you.
The two large boxes was properly over something like 6-8 evenings of 3-6 hours
Great Job!!
Thank you Jim. They are still in use :)
Nice video! I wanted only ask you if Is better your solution to built the structure or is better to use casemaker profiles.. Thanks
I had to do it my way, because casemaker profiles only comes in 1 meter length. There was very little hardware to be found, premade for 2 meter long cases. Casemaker profiles seems to be double the price, so its a trade-off between your time and money. But I would properly buy casemaker profiles for cases that are less than 1 meter :)
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk Thanks you very much! But I think your structure is more solid than the other one with casemaker profiles
@@massimofabbri1175 True, but it comes with a price in additional weight :) They are heavy.
What type of rivets and size are you using? Good work mate.
I used 4.0x11.4mm, you could properly use shorter ones. Type 12-971 here www.biltema.dk/varktoj/handvarktoj/nittevarktoj/nitter/nitte-2000016806
Very nice - now i want to make some custom boxes as well :)
Ask me anything if you got questions about it :)
"kaiser power electronics" named so after your kaiser stache? ❤
Not quite :) In my youth I was very fond of a Norwegian band called Kaizers Orchestra. The idea of the band members and their fans taking Kaizer as a lastname was a cult thing.
Having a hard time finding that thin laminated ply board in the US. Any suggestions?
Did you try looking for wood used in concrete pouring form building? A more expensive version is used for construction of trailers, but also better quality.
where did you source all of your hardware for these cases im interested in building some for my personal lighting equipment
You can usually find it at any event/lightning company, like "Adam Hall" in Gernany. All wood is from local hardware store.
Would instead of using the nails and wood glue use instead some slow curing epoxy or urethane sealer, along with drilling the holes for the nails, and replacing them with countersunk long thin chipboard screws. Inside you simply wipe the edges of the seams before the urethane cures, on all except for the base, as this is likely to have another base panel inside, so there you can cut the excess flush with the panel after the lid is cut with the saw.
Long screws give a lot of rigidity, and using the urethane sealer means the case sections are never going to delaminate, plus you can use the same urethane to bond the aluminium edges on, so they will not come off except after major damage. I have done the chipboard screw thing often, and the failure is the wood breaking, though I do cheat and use fine thread quality drywall screws often, as they will self drill the hole, but even the chipboard screws work well.
Which thickness panels do you use? I would love to have used 12 or 15 mm for sturdiness, but the weight of the added thickness was a big no. All the aluminum rails does all the rigidity, but I can foresee that some years of use and replacement of rivets to bolt+washer+nut might be necessary if the rivets are stressed enough to break the wood.
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk Cheapest panels by me are 18mm, so used those. Yes thinner panels are better, but using an even glue bond will mean no rivets needed. Just some stretchy tape to hold the panels and edges together for the cure time of the urethane, which will probably mean a day of tape. I used the shutterply to make simple shelving, and did the dimensions to use the full sheet with only a single cut width. Thus the edge screws, to get a strong joint.
@@SeanBZA woah yeah 18 mm is never going to happen with big boxes like this! That would be 80 kg just for the big box! You are not using rivets on the aluminum rails?
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk 18mm does not need rails, the join itself is strong enough, though a few corners had braces put in.
@@SeanBZA Now I understand :)
You have a very unique look and accent. Have you ever thought acting? No homo. Thanks for the video bro, I’m still trying to see if it’s worth the time to build a case for my DJ lighting, this was very helpful
Glad you said no homo, I was just thinking you were gay.
God video! Godt lavet :)
Gutentag! Hello from Seattle, WA USA. My family is German and it's like my father always said: Germans don't just manufacture, they engineer. I think you've got a great thing going on. Would you ever be interested in selling your cases? I've got a distribution channel already set up in North America. I think you've got a great product line and I'd like to represent it.
*My son, you all REALLY, should have built shock absorber cases instead, for gear like that!*
How much do you charge me for making me one flight case for 2 55 inch tv
Are you serious???
No one
Me:what a flight case
When a flight case doubles as a coffin :)
Hey, where's Super Mario? 😄 🤣
Cheap? Haha in the Bauhaus store where I live, that concrete mold plywood is 3 times more expensive than regular plywood, because of the waterproofing. :D But it's definitely worth it, because you don't have to paint it or put any kind of faux leather over it.
Current building material prices in 2021/corona times could properly have shifted the price differences....
How much more does concrete mold plywood weigh? Is it the same? I'm very interested in your reply. Thank you my friend! I'm in Seattle, USA and I'm starting to build these cases. I really enjoy the work and I love the marketplace selling to really nice/cool people. I could use some advice if you can. Danke!
@@ericweiler6571 I just checked. The waterproof/anti-slip boards are 2.5 x 1.25m. 9 mm board weighs 19 kg, 12 mm is 25 kg, 15 mm is 31 kg, 18 mm is 41 kg, and 21 mm is 44 kg. I used 9mm board to make a really lightweight case and it worked really well (with rivets and aluminium single angle extrusions). Btw, the 9mm board costs 119€ and the 21mm is 189€, so it's pretty expensive, but since it's already waterproof and has a nice finish, I guess it's worth it. Your mileage may vary :D
Peter Baelish looks different here
But then who was TV?
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk I thought it was you
Are you a german?
A bit further north, Denmark.
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk german speaking denmark?
@@ranitguha7935 Danish, but all learn German in school :)
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk I asked you because I thought kaiser wilhelm
@@ranitguha7935 It actually is inspired from a Norwegian band called Kaizers Orchestra :)
too small case for the weight imho
There was no static load calculations done before hand. Just based on cheapest and easiest to get, so yes, they became heavier than they could have been.