There is another RUclips builder out of Australia doing a Super Duty also. He has both his wing tanks gravity fed and plumbed to a small "day tank" inside the main fuselage behind the front passenger seat, and then pumps the fuel to his engine from there. Do you plan to do something similar? If so, and you decided you needed a fuel return line, could you just plumb it to that instead of going all the way back to the wing tanks??
I thought I remember the EAA saying that modified fuel systems were a large contributor to home built engine failures. I want a simple and robust fuel system. I won’t be adding any extra tanks on my airplane.
If you put in a header tank you will only need one return line. I'd put in a 5 gal header like Steve Henry make for the Highlander. Just a quick thought for you.
I did think about adding a header tank behind the aft bulkhead but I don’t think I’ll be going that route. I’m looking for a simple dependable fuel system.
Please, please, please go back through on your wiring and add chaffe tape(silicone tape) around your wiring you’re securing with zip ties. It’ll help because it’s a chaffing condition. Coming from an avionics tech from Hondajet and the army.
Thanks Mark... really appreciate your attention to detail and craftsmanship! Being the " rattle freak " that I am , was wondering what and if you're doing with the lines in the larger open areas?? Thanks again... Blue Skies!
Hi mark, any thoughts of eliminating the banana slots and running bearings like mark patey did on his 801? Thank you for taking the time to produce these video!
@@KitplaneEnthusiast okay thanks. And I did purchase and I started to do inventory on all the hundreds of parts for my 750-SD. Cannot lie I am a little overwhelmed. There is a lot of parts without a lot of guidance. But I am Very thankful for you’re videos. Do you have any advice for a first time builder? Thanks again
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Hi Mark. Are you actually talking about what Zenith calls the "Installation Parts LIst (IPL)"? Its really not what I could call a manual as it is powerfully lacking in details in lots of areas. It is certainly not the same quality as what I have seen for the 750 STOL. At this point I've got my SD rudder, elevator, flaps and slats done. My wing kit is supposed to show up in a few weeks. It would be great if there was more documentation available that I was unaware of.
Of course do your own research, but can't you just run a fuel return line teed into the intake line instead of the tank? I did that on my 12 valve cummins conversion a couple years ago and haven't had a problem, but its always on the ground. Almost always anyway, I like to have fun with what I build,lol!
One of the things that a fuel injection return line does is dump any vapor that builds up in the lines, back into the tank where it dissipates. This helps to avoid vapor-lock. Teeing back into the intake line would just circulate the vapors around and around. Most (all?) newer returnless systems have a pressure regulator integral to the fuel pump and a system for dealing with the vapor. Cars typically put the fuel pump/regulator in the fuel tank. From what I've seen, piston aircraft mount the fuel pump near the engine. Edit: I found a pretty good article over at a web site called "flight mechanic" . com / fuel injection systems. I have no affiliation.
@@Know-Way thanks for the reply. Scary how much sense that makes, I wrote my question without much thought. It works on my diesel because I ran 1 big line to the tank and put a check valve at the tank. I was worried about the mechanical pump on the motor losing prime and sucking air. I teed the return into the intake line and haven't had a problem but you have convinced me to run a line to the tank.
Why couldn’t you run the lines along the front of the rear spar? Behind the fuel tank? I think as long as the holes are in the middle of the spar, there is no stress in the center of the web, you’ll be ok. I would consider the fuel injected engine.. you don’t need carb heat, you can make an automatic alternate air via a spring loaded flap.. the fuel injected allows lean of peak if you’re into that.. however the curbed engine may start easier and allow easier hand propping if needed.. some people convert from carb to FI, almost unheard of to go from FI to carb.. that says something..
That is what I originally wanted to do, but it’s not possible. I’m putting together a question/answer video and I’ll explain why routing the lines that way won’t work.
Mounting to the existing rivet holes was a really slick idea!
You've done some creative mods that really show care and attention and make for a great looking job. Thanks for describing what and why you did these.
I would’ve thought that zenith would’ve suggested riveting in a doubler in the location where you drilled the pitot line holes into the spar.
Such a neat job . Looks really professional.
Looks great! Meticulous work!
Super super clean work!!
Looks fantastic! Good job on the brackets.
Looking good Mark! With the beautiful weather this weekend you need to get the cruzer out!
I wish I could but I’m back to work now.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Well at least your flying something! Lol
When do you have your pre-cover inspections?
There is another RUclips builder out of Australia doing a Super Duty also. He has both his wing tanks gravity fed and plumbed to a small "day tank" inside the main fuselage behind the front passenger seat, and then pumps the fuel to his engine from there. Do you plan to do something similar? If so, and you decided you needed a fuel return line, could you just plumb it to that instead of going all the way back to the wing tanks??
I thought I remember the EAA saying that modified fuel systems were a large contributor to home built engine failures. I want a simple and robust fuel system. I won’t be adding any extra tanks on my airplane.
If you put in a header tank you will only need one return line. I'd put in a 5 gal header like Steve Henry make for the Highlander. Just a quick thought for you.
I did think about adding a header tank behind the aft bulkhead but I don’t think I’ll be going that route. I’m looking for a simple dependable fuel system.
Mark, where did you source the black plastic snap-in bushings? Thanks
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OP6070I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Thanks!
So when are you starting the build center? 😁
Lol I wish I could!
the viking fuel systems are nice header tank style return and pumps all in one
If you put in a small header tank between the selector and pump, you could put a single return fuel line into it, if you find you need one.
Good Stuff!
What are you using for the pitot and AOA lines. They look “higher grade” than the brake tube Zenith provides.
It’s all from Dynon Avionics. I highly recommend Dynon. I’ll have a full video coming out real soon on the whole pitot tube system.
و لو انه ما فهمت باللغه الانكليزية
لاكن فهمت هواي امور عن عالم الطائرات الصغيرة من خلال شرحك
Please, please, please go back through on your wiring and add chaffe tape(silicone tape) around your wiring you’re securing with zip ties. It’ll help because it’s a chaffing condition. Coming from an avionics tech from Hondajet and the army.
Already been done!
Thanks Mark... really appreciate your attention to detail and craftsmanship! Being the " rattle freak " that I am , was wondering what and if you're doing with the lines in the larger open areas?? Thanks again... Blue Skies!
Hi mark, any thoughts of eliminating the banana slots and running bearings like mark patey did on his 801? Thank you for taking the time to produce these video!
Hi Mark, could you please tell me how, where you got the construction manual I have seen you reference in a few of your videos. Thanks
I printed those off from Zenith’s online manual. I believe the manuals are available only to those who have purchased a kit. Ask Zenith tho.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast okay thanks. And I did purchase and I started to do inventory on all the hundreds of parts for my 750-SD. Cannot lie I am a little overwhelmed. There is a lot of parts without a lot of guidance. But I am Very thankful for you’re videos. Do you have any advice for a first time builder? Thanks again
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Hi Mark. Are you actually talking about what Zenith calls the "Installation Parts LIst (IPL)"? Its really not what I could call a manual as it is powerfully lacking in details in lots of areas. It is certainly not the same quality as what I have seen for the 750 STOL.
At this point I've got my SD rudder, elevator, flaps and slats done. My wing kit is supposed to show up in a few weeks. It would be great if there was more documentation available that I was unaware of.
Of course do your own research, but can't you just run a fuel return line teed into the intake line instead of the tank? I did that on my 12 valve cummins conversion a couple years ago and haven't had a problem, but its always on the ground. Almost always anyway, I like to have fun with what I build,lol!
One of the things that a fuel injection return line does is dump any vapor that builds up in the lines, back into the tank where it dissipates. This helps to avoid vapor-lock. Teeing back into the intake line would just circulate the vapors around and around.
Most (all?) newer returnless systems have a pressure regulator integral to the fuel pump and a system for dealing with the vapor. Cars typically put the fuel pump/regulator in the fuel tank. From what I've seen, piston aircraft mount the fuel pump near the engine.
Edit: I found a pretty good article over at a web site called "flight mechanic" . com / fuel injection systems. I have no affiliation.
@@Know-Way thanks for the reply. Scary how much sense that makes, I wrote my question without much thought. It works on my diesel because I ran 1 big line to the tank and put a check valve at the tank. I was worried about the mechanical pump on the motor losing prime and sucking air. I teed the return into the intake line and haven't had a problem but you have convinced me to run a line to the tank.
Why couldn’t you run the lines along the front of the rear spar? Behind the fuel tank? I think as long as the holes are in the middle of the spar, there is no stress in the center of the web, you’ll be ok. I would consider the fuel injected engine.. you don’t need carb heat, you can make an automatic alternate air via a spring loaded flap.. the fuel injected allows lean of peak if you’re into that.. however the curbed engine may start easier and allow easier hand propping if needed.. some people convert from carb to FI, almost unheard of to go from FI to carb.. that says something..
That is what I originally wanted to do, but it’s not possible. I’m putting together a question/answer video and I’ll explain why routing the lines that way won’t work.