I've got the Minolta MC 135/2.8 and have absolutely no complaints. Of course wide open it's a little soft and lacks contrast but that can be added in post. Good comparison between these 3 lenses and I'm glad I have the Minolta.
I paid through the nose for my Tair 11A but it was worth it, I love that lens. My best cheap 135 is a Mamiya/Sekor in M42. Thanks for the interesting review.
Minolta is the best lens, in my opinion. The colors are SO fantastically, incredibly beautiful and live! Never before have i seen such a nice rendering of any scene, neither in film or digital form. Those great lens-masters of old times... they knew some secrets...
I came into possession of the minolta 135mm before I was ever into photography, and I unwittingly had a really nice lens rolling around a drawer for several years before taking it out and being blown away with the images I was taking with it. Really good lens.
Thanks for the excellent review, I fully agree with what you said about Minolta as I have 135/2.8 55/1.7 50/1.4, used them on Canon 80D then on Sony A7R, those lenses aren’t the cheapest but they render a great colour, Bokeh, and retro character.
Great lens review ! the Rokkor was my favourite here..for f2.8 135mm lenses another two great ones are the Zuiko 135/2.8 and the Pentacon 135/2.8, this East German lens is considered a bokeh monster by many photographers.
Wonderful to see such lovely images produced by medium range telephoto lenses! The Russian photographic industry produced some exceptional glass + the Tair 11a excels! Thank you Nigel for demonstrating these wonderful lenses in your own unique style. Derek
A nice old fashioned focal length - remember how we all used 135mms for portraits back in the film days? ;-) With modern 'clean' sensors, it's now possible to whack up the ISO to compensate for slower lenses. I use a Pentax SMC 135mm f3.5 on my Canon 5D or 6D bodies. The latter's sensor can handle high ISO very well. (Chop off the aperture lug at the back if you are putting one on a full frame DSLR or it will foul the mirror).
I have a Helios 135 f2. 8 which says made in Japan on it. It has a pull out built in lens hood. Very sharp and contrasty. I have a set of auto extension tubes that I use with it on my Practica camera. I paid £15 for it with a Zenith E camera thrown in.
I have been thoroughly impressed with my Canon FD 135mm f/2.5. It's an early 1970s version of this lens with breech lock style mounting and built in lens hood. Later versions moved to the nFD bayonet mount and f/2.8 max aperture. The contrast, sharpness, and separation you can achieve with this lens is quite nice. Beautiful, creamy bokeh is the result when shot wide open at closer distances and it's very sharp when stopped down a bit. I paid about 60£ for this lens and it's worth every penny.
The Minolta arrived today. Pleased with it's reasonably close focus. Extremely pleased with it's sharpness. My version is the Celtic, with built in lens hood. $28 bucks on ebay. What charmer. (And I own the jazzy Fuji primes)
GREAT REVIEW! I just recently had to replace my Nikkor 135mm. But these were easy to find on the web. Prices are "reasonable" still, BUT are going up! In the 70's, a Gent that I went on many a "shoot" with, ALWAYS kept a camera body handy, mounted with the 135mm. A truly great length to have around! Maybe next time, the 200mm? I used that one for "Sports Action" shots. BUT, was getting too heavy for using off the tripod!!!! 😉
Thanks for including the vignetting shots. I also like 135mm for street portraits for the same reason. I don't want anyone to feel uncomfortable, and it keeps the look natural. Separation is nice when you shoot wide open, and even stopped downed I like the flattening and less hard perspectives, over wider focal lengths.
I got that minolta 135 almost a year ago now on ebay, it was mislabeled as the minolta celtic 135 (the cheaper minolta line) for $17....didnt realize i was getting a steal until after i received
Good video. The 150 MD Minolta is a great lens if you come across. The Celtic I forget if it's 135 or 105 quite nice. Don't sleep on a spiritone if you come across it
I have two 135mm primes. One is a vintage Nikkor f/2.8. Late 70s / early 80s. Same series as the "Afghan Girl" lens which is a 105mm. I would love to own that one as well. And of course, I have a Jupiter-11. A Sonnar clone at f/4. Despite the higher f-stop, one of my favourite lenses- Delivers the Sonnar look in spades.
my favorite random 135mm is the opticam 135mm f2.8... it has some obscene amount of aperture blades also, I can't bring myself to sell it because the video is amazing.
Thanks again for a really cool video. I picked up a Pentax SP 1000 kit at an Estate Sale which included a Vivitar 135mm f2.8 lens. I can hardly wait to put it through its paces and compare it's results to what you shared with the lenses reviewed here! Keep up the good work.
Yes indeed, Sun Optical produced some excellent mid-range optics in the 60s and 70s before disappearing in the 80s. They were popular sellers with independent retailers due to offering decent profit margins with little competition from large chain stores. Build quality was always good and they offered a range of lenses in various mounts.
In the past, I had the opportunity to compare Tair11, Jupiter 37A, Takumar 135 f3,5, Fuji EBC 135mm f3,5, Tamron 135mm f2,8, Takumar (bayonet) 135mm f2,5 and Takumar m42 135mm f2,5. At the end, I decided to buy the Takumar m42 135mm f2,5 and after 35 years, I still own that lens. After watching your video, would like to test the Minolta.
I like very much tele Takumars. 85, 105, 135 f2,5 and 200mm f3,5 are really great lenses. The 135mm f2,5 has a spectacular resolution and medium contrast, perfect for portraits.
Thank you, the Sun is incredible to my view, hard to find in France. Is it very rare ? I've found a "Ys 13 " 135 mm f2.8 , it doesn't look the same as yours. Is it the same quality? Thanks.
The Nikkor 135mm f2.8 is good. You can get pre ai ones. I have the QC one which has multicoating. It’s ridiculously solidly made. Probably the most tank built lens that I own. 100% metal casing. A bit heavy though.
I can confirm that as far as my eye can see, the Rokkor 135mm beats the absolute SOCKS off of my 16-50 E PZ lens in my A6000. I understand the bokeh is probably credited more towards the compression being higher with the longer focal length, but it is an AMAZING value.
I have several legacy 135s and each is very good. That said, I recently picked up a used Rokinon 135 2.0, for a very reasonable price. It is now my favorite 135. It's very sharp, wide open. Sharp enough that it only improves a very little bit when stopping down. My legacy 135s have little quirks or oddities that cause them to have what's commonly referred to as "character", which is interesting and pleasant, in some ways, but the Rokinon is just faster and optically better, all around.
Few years ago i snagged an Pentacon Jena 135mm f2,8. I couldn't resist, I got it for peanuts. And yes, that lens is crazy sharp, especially for what it is. However, it had some strange haze to it, so I was quite disappointed. So I was on the hunt for another one. Turns out, ALL of available lenses in my area had the same haze. Agin, turns out, people in this area love to store their old lenses in the attic, cours most likely that haze is coused by escaped lubricant of the lens. Agin, turns out, I'll have to disassemble and clean that lens myself, course no technician will do it in my area. At least not for a reasonable price...
Just got a free Tair 11 from my father in law :) Just have to open it up and clean it out. I am curious about it. It is a bit too big and heavy personally I am very liking the more compact Jupiter 37A 135mm that I bought 2 months ago, which has amazing color and character as well. We'll see if this can dethrone that :)
Thank you for your wonderful video. I love your voice. :) I'm new to photography and learning a lot about it. Just wondering what kind of camera are you using to test these lenses... I'm assuming full frame camera. Is it ok to use crop sensor camera like Sony a6000 which is what I have... Or any recommendation for my camera?
Yes, you can use the lenses on both full frame and crop sensor cameras. But, do yourself a favour, buy a film camera and use one on it :) Grab a Minolta SRT Super or 303b, a Pentax ME or MX or whatever takes your fancy. A Tair can be used on any camera since it uses a M42 screw mount and only requires a T2 adapter that fits whatever camera you use. But, you can get adapters for the other lenses too.
You're right, I shot all these images on a Sony A7 mark 1 (full frame). However, as Carl said, you can mount pretty much any vintage lens on a digital mirrorless camera like your a6000.
@@carltanner9065 Thank you for your advice. Amazingly I checked the local market and found two Pentax deals. Pentax ME and Spotmatic Asahi. Both with a lot of extra staffs with lenses. And they are both pretty much same price around $100.. Which one do you think it's better. I've done some research myself and ME has dynamic range but its a bit rugged. Spotmatic is more convenient and easy to use but not enough functionality or something... Haha too much information.. Can you please help me choosing which one I should buy. I will greatly appreciate.. I'm so addicted to your reviews and I'm going through all your videos and dreaming about getting all the vintage lens. During this global pandemic it is great way to spend time at home and keeping me busy... Crazy about this new hobby.... Thank you very much!!! :)
@@bjkim8986 I'm not the one doing the reviews :) I watch these myself. But I've been using film cameras and such for quite awhile :) The Spotmatic is a good beginners camera and is easy to use but if you want more out of your camera and a better buy in the long run, grab the ME. The ME is a more capable camera. Remember, these are film cameras and not digital ones. If you're just looking for lenses, then your best bet with your A6000 is to get a Minolta MC/MD to Sony E mount adapter and grab as many of the Minolta lenses that you can afford. Of these, I'd suggest the 50mm f/1.4 (or f/1.7), 28mm f/2.8, 135mm f/2.8 (or f/3.5), 50-135mm f/3.5, and whatever else you might like to get. Don't get the lenses that say "AF" in the name as they're Minolta lenses for cameras with Sony A mounts. Unless you can get a Sony A to E mount adapter. Stick to the MC/MD mounts lenses and the adapter for the E mount.
Simple question... I have several old film slr Nikons and want to use some Minolta MD/MC lenses. Looked for adapters, but very quickly got very confused with comments like "cannot focus to infinity" and "loses quality", etc. What is the easiest way to get one of these lovely minolta lenses onto a Nikon please (e.g. FM, FTB, etc.). Not worried about losing 'auto' stuff - eg. happy to manually focus and set aperture/shutter, etc; do it all the time:) Any help much appreciated... (may be a video on the subject would help many many others with the pitfalls of 'adapters'?) Cheers
As I understand it, the flange distance of Nikon camera bodies means that other SLR lenses won't easily adapt to them, usually requiring an adaptor with an extra element to allow infinity focus. It might be easier in the final analysis to look for a good Minolta body?
I have the Minolta MD 135 2.8 instead of the MC. Is there any difference? Mine does exhibits what you describe as the Minolta character of high contrast and vibrant colors. I did not use it enough as it is a heavy lens despite a size that is not big. It has a built in lens hood and very well made. I must get it out more. Thanks for a review that renewed my fire for the 135
For Minolta lens questions you should check here: artaphot.ch/minolta-sr/objektive/171-minolta-135mm-f28 in German, but autotranslate should help (I haven‘t tried as I am a native speaker) For a 135mm comparison: artaphot.ch/minolta-sr/objektiv-vergleiche/327-nex-5n-und-135mm-teleobjektive
The Minolta MD 135 mm f/ 2.8 is a 5/5, while the Minolta MC Tele Rokkor-PF 135 mm f/ 2.8 is a 6/5. Guess which one should be better. By the way, I have no idea how you could pay less than 10£ for the MC, unless it fell and was used to grow boletus.On eBay you can nuy the empty box for 9€ (+ shipment).
Why are we whispering ? Is baby sleeping :) On a second note , i think Tair is the best because one reason , it has no rear element . Dont know about others . But this is good for modifying it and adding a magnifying lens in the place where usually rear element is and you cant do it . When you do this you get Speed Boost , better CA , better resolution wider view . dont know if other lenses have rear element in this video .
@@zenography7923 well it just gets rid of crop factor on modern sensors of smaller size , gets rid of that penalty . makes the lens work like it should . Most ppl convert Focal length when they calculate for crop factor , but rarely do they crop their F number , no one likes to do that but its true , if you waste light by not shining it on your sensor , its lost , so one needs to focus all the light to the imagining plane and then lens will work as advertised so to say , or as it should . Except when one one will crop in post anyway , if that is the case then its best to not remove sensor crop factor and shoot cropped from get go .
I've reviewed them both previously. Also, the Minolta in this video was lent to me for a review some months ago and it's now gone back. So although I still have the shots I took with it, and some stills of the lens itself, I couldn't feature it in the video, and something had to fill the gap!
Claiming 135 mm is a very usefull focal is a lie. It was never intended as usefull but as a compromise. As every compromise it is not the most usable in none of the fields it compromises.
I've got the Minolta MC 135/2.8 and have absolutely no complaints. Of course wide open it's a little soft and lacks contrast but that can be added in post. Good comparison between these 3 lenses and I'm glad I have the Minolta.
Glad you enjoyed the video - and enjoy that Minolta!
I paid through the nose for my Tair 11A but it was worth it, I love that lens. My best cheap 135 is a Mamiya/Sekor in M42. Thanks for the interesting review.
Many thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
I luv the Mam/Sek 2.8/135. Putting it on a helicoid adapter lifts it higher.
Minolta is the best lens, in my opinion. The colors are SO fantastically, incredibly beautiful and live! Never before have i seen such a nice rendering of any scene, neither in film or digital form. Those great lens-masters of old times... they knew some secrets...
They certainly did! Got to love a bit of Minolta glass!
I came into possession of the minolta 135mm before I was ever into photography, and I unwittingly had a really nice lens rolling around a drawer for several years before taking it out and being blown away with the images I was taking with it. Really good lens.
You have a nice lens there, for sure!
Thanks for the excellent review, I fully agree with what you said about Minolta as I have 135/2.8 55/1.7 50/1.4, used them on Canon 80D then on Sony A7R, those lenses aren’t the cheapest but they render a great colour, Bokeh, and retro character.
Minolta colours are certainly hard to beat!
As always, an excellent comparison and well narrated lens review… very helpful and informative… many thanks for sharing :-)
Many thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
Great lens review ! the Rokkor was my favourite here..for f2.8 135mm lenses another two great ones are the Zuiko 135/2.8 and the Pentacon 135/2.8, this East German lens is considered a bokeh monster by many photographers.
Thanks for the tips - and for watching!
Wonderful to see such lovely images produced by medium range telephoto lenses!
The Russian photographic industry produced some exceptional glass + the Tair 11a excels!
Thank you Nigel for demonstrating these wonderful lenses in your own unique style.
Derek
No problem Derek, thanks for the loan!
A nice old fashioned focal length - remember how we all used 135mms for portraits back in the film days? ;-) With modern 'clean' sensors, it's now possible to whack up the ISO to compensate for slower lenses. I use a Pentax SMC 135mm f3.5 on my Canon 5D or 6D bodies. The latter's sensor can handle high ISO very well. (Chop off the aperture lug at the back if you are putting one on a full frame DSLR or it will foul the mirror).
That's the beauty of digital!
I have a Helios 135 f2. 8 which says made in Japan on it. It has a pull out built in lens hood.
Very sharp and contrasty.
I have a set of auto extension tubes that I use with it on my Practica camera. I paid £15 for it with a Zenith E camera thrown in.
I've heard of that Helios but never actually used one - it sounds like you got quite a bargain there!
I have the Minolta and I concur 1000% with your assessment of the lens. A beautiful bit of glass :)
I have been thoroughly impressed with my Canon FD 135mm f/2.5. It's an early 1970s version of this lens with breech lock style mounting and built in lens hood. Later versions moved to the nFD bayonet mount and f/2.8 max aperture. The contrast, sharpness, and separation you can achieve with this lens is quite nice. Beautiful, creamy bokeh is the result when shot wide open at closer distances and it's very sharp when stopped down a bit. I paid about 60£ for this lens and it's worth every penny.
I haven't used this lens but it sounds lovely - the fd series are very nice lenses!
The Minolta arrived today. Pleased with it's reasonably close focus. Extremely pleased with it's sharpness. My version is the Celtic, with built in lens hood. $28 bucks on ebay. What charmer. (And I own the jazzy Fuji primes)
GREAT REVIEW!
I just recently had to replace my Nikkor 135mm. But these were easy to find on the web. Prices are "reasonable" still, BUT are going up!
In the 70's, a Gent that I went on many a "shoot" with, ALWAYS kept a camera body handy, mounted with the 135mm.
A truly great length to have around!
Maybe next time, the 200mm?
I used that one for "Sports Action" shots. BUT, was getting too heavy for using off the tripod!!!! 😉
Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
Thanks for including the vignetting shots. I also like 135mm for street portraits for the same reason. I don't want anyone to feel uncomfortable, and it keeps the look natural. Separation is nice when you shoot wide open, and even stopped downed I like the flattening and less hard perspectives, over wider focal lengths.
135 is a great length for street shots - perhaps the best? Thanks for watching!
I got that minolta 135 almost a year ago now on ebay, it was mislabeled as the minolta celtic 135 (the cheaper minolta line) for $17....didnt realize i was getting a steal until after i received
Wow, you got quite a bargain there!
Good video. The 150 MD Minolta is a great lens if you come across. The Celtic I forget if it's 135 or 105 quite nice. Don't sleep on a spiritone if you come across it
Thanks for the tips!
I love the Tair 11a , the Carl zeiss jena sonnar and the Meyer Orestor.
I agree with the first two - haven't used the Meyer though - yet!
I've been using an Olympus OM Zuiko 135mm f2.8 which I've found to be a real pleasure to use.
Another great bit of glass in the same class as those three.
I have two 135mm primes. One is a vintage Nikkor f/2.8. Late 70s / early 80s. Same series as the "Afghan Girl" lens which is a 105mm. I would love to own that one as well. And of course, I have a Jupiter-11. A Sonnar clone at f/4. Despite the higher f-stop, one of my favourite lenses- Delivers the Sonnar look in spades.
The J11 is lovely. A little slow, but still lovely, and one of the cheapest FSU lenses too!
The Nikkor 105mm f2,5 ais is my last purchase. I confirm, it is great.
my favorite random 135mm is the opticam 135mm f2.8... it has some obscene amount of aperture blades also, I can't bring myself to sell it because the video is amazing.
Third party lenses get a bad rap, but some are really nice - as you've found!
@@zenography7923 indeed. opticam might make for an interesting video... the 35/2.8 is such a lovely lens on APS-C for the price.
Thanks again for a really cool video. I picked up a Pentax SP 1000 kit at an Estate Sale which included a Vivitar 135mm f2.8 lens. I can hardly wait to put it through its paces and compare it's results to what you shared with the lenses reviewed here! Keep up the good work.
Enjoy that fast 135!
Yes indeed, Sun Optical produced some excellent mid-range optics in the 60s and 70s before disappearing in the 80s. They were popular sellers with independent retailers due to offering decent profit margins with little competition from large chain stores. Build quality was always good and they offered a range of lenses in various mounts.
I'd never heard of them before encountering this lens; I was surprised by the quality of its manufacture and optics!
I got the minolta mc rokkor mcII 135mm f2.8 paired with my 55mm f1.7 rokkor
Love your videos! The Takumar 135/f3.5 has become a quick favorite. Have been looking for something faster though 👀
The extra stop doesn't sound much, but I've found it very useful in low light. Thanks for watching!
Any thing takumar holds up well
In the past, I had the opportunity to compare Tair11, Jupiter 37A, Takumar 135 f3,5, Fuji EBC 135mm f3,5, Tamron 135mm f2,8, Takumar (bayonet) 135mm f2,5 and Takumar m42 135mm f2,5. At the end, I decided to buy the Takumar m42 135mm f2,5 and after 35 years, I still own that lens. After watching your video, would like to test the Minolta.
The Minolta's a fine lens indeed, though it's now gone back to its owner in the USA. I'd love to try the Takumar!
I like very much tele Takumars. 85, 105, 135 f2,5 and 200mm f3,5 are really great lenses. The 135mm f2,5 has a spectacular resolution and medium contrast, perfect for portraits.
Thank you, the Sun is incredible to my view, hard to find in France. Is it very rare ? I've found a "Ys 13 " 135 mm f2.8 , it doesn't look the same as yours. Is it the same quality? Thanks.
Have you heard before about Sakar 135mm f2.8 with C/Y mount ?
But of topic question, is the fujinon 55mm 2.2 also available in Ax mount ? So far I just saw a M42 but today I find an ax mount 🤔
Hi Zenography, many thanks for this review! I purchased the Minolta lens in 1988 for my Minolta XG-M. Best wishes, Ralf
It's a lovely lens, quite stunning actually, and those Minolta colours!
I have the same camera/lens combo myself and I love it. A dream for portraits.
The Nikkor 135mm f2.8 is good. You can get pre ai ones. I have the QC one which has multicoating. It’s ridiculously solidly made. Probably the most tank built lens that I own. 100% metal casing. A bit heavy though.
Those old Nikons are certainly well made, no doubt about it!
I can confirm that as far as my eye can see, the Rokkor 135mm beats the absolute SOCKS off of my 16-50 E PZ lens in my A6000. I understand the bokeh is probably credited more towards the compression being higher with the longer focal length, but it is an AMAZING value.
It's pretty nice, no doubt about it!
I have several legacy 135s and each is very good. That said, I recently picked up a used Rokinon 135 2.0, for a very reasonable price. It is now my favorite 135. It's very sharp, wide open. Sharp enough that it only improves a very little bit when stopping down. My legacy 135s have little quirks or oddities that cause them to have what's commonly referred to as "character", which is interesting and pleasant, in some ways, but the Rokinon is just faster and optically better, all around.
That Rokinon sounds lovely - would love to try one!
Have the sun 135 in f/3.5 and knowing how it swirls, I can imagine how ridiculous the backgrounds are on the 2.8
It's one of the blurriest lenses I have!
keep up the good work!
Thanks!
Few years ago i snagged an Pentacon Jena 135mm f2,8. I couldn't resist, I got it for peanuts. And yes, that lens is crazy sharp, especially for what it is. However, it had some strange haze to it, so I was quite disappointed. So I was on the hunt for another one. Turns out, ALL of available lenses in my area had the same haze. Agin, turns out, people in this area love to store their old lenses in the attic, cours most likely that haze is coused by escaped lubricant of the lens. Agin, turns out, I'll have to disassemble and clean that lens myself, course no technician will do it in my area. At least not for a reasonable price...
I've heard that lens is a very nice one, so it's certainly worth cleaning if you have the skills, or failing that, the courage! Good luck!
@@zenography7923 Thank you, I'll need it 😊
Just got a free Tair 11 from my father in law :) Just have to open it up and clean it out. I am curious about it. It is a bit too big and heavy personally I am very liking the more compact Jupiter 37A 135mm that I bought 2 months ago, which has amazing color and character as well. We'll see if this can dethrone that :)
I'd be interested to hear your results! Thanks for watching!
I enjoy your reviews, thanks for putting the content out there. Although you seem to love every lens, so it doesn't help me narrow down my ideal kit 😂
Glad you're enjoying the videos!
Thank you for your wonderful video. I love your voice. :)
I'm new to photography and learning a lot about it. Just wondering what kind of camera are you using to test these lenses... I'm assuming full frame camera. Is it ok to use crop sensor camera like Sony a6000 which is what I have... Or any recommendation for my camera?
Yes, you can use the lenses on both full frame and crop sensor cameras. But, do yourself a favour, buy a film camera and use one on it :) Grab a Minolta SRT Super or 303b, a Pentax ME or MX or whatever takes your fancy. A Tair can be used on any camera since it uses a M42 screw mount and only requires a T2 adapter that fits whatever camera you use. But, you can get adapters for the other lenses too.
You're right, I shot all these images on a Sony A7 mark 1 (full frame). However, as Carl said, you can mount pretty much any vintage lens on a digital mirrorless camera like your a6000.
@@carltanner9065
Thank you for your advice. Amazingly I checked the local market and found two Pentax deals. Pentax ME and Spotmatic Asahi. Both with a lot of extra staffs with lenses. And they are both pretty much same price around $100.. Which one do you think it's better. I've done some research myself and ME has dynamic range but its a bit rugged. Spotmatic is more convenient and easy to use but not enough functionality or something... Haha too much information.. Can you please help me choosing which one I should buy. I will greatly appreciate.. I'm so addicted to your reviews and I'm going through all your videos and dreaming about getting all the vintage lens. During this global pandemic it is great way to spend time at home and keeping me busy... Crazy about this new hobby.... Thank you very much!!! :)
@@bjkim8986 I'm not the one doing the reviews :) I watch these myself. But I've been using film cameras and such for quite awhile :) The Spotmatic is a good beginners camera and is easy to use but if you want more out of your camera and a better buy in the long run, grab the ME. The ME is a more capable camera. Remember, these are film cameras and not digital ones. If you're just looking for lenses, then your best bet with your A6000 is to get a Minolta MC/MD to Sony E mount adapter and grab as many of the Minolta lenses that you can afford. Of these, I'd suggest the 50mm f/1.4 (or f/1.7), 28mm f/2.8, 135mm f/2.8 (or f/3.5), 50-135mm f/3.5, and whatever else you might like to get. Don't get the lenses that say "AF" in the name as they're Minolta lenses for cameras with Sony A mounts. Unless you can get a Sony A to E mount adapter. Stick to the MC/MD mounts lenses and the adapter for the E mount.
you should check out jupiter 7 135mm f3.5. very sharp wide open.
I haven't used that one, but will keep an eye out for it! Thanks for the tip!
@@zenography7923 it's Jupiter 37a actually, apologies for the mistake :)
Another great video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Simple question... I have several old film slr Nikons and want to use some Minolta MD/MC lenses. Looked for adapters, but very quickly got very confused with comments like "cannot focus to infinity" and "loses quality", etc. What is the easiest way to get one of these lovely minolta lenses onto a Nikon please (e.g. FM, FTB, etc.). Not worried about losing 'auto' stuff - eg. happy to manually focus and set aperture/shutter, etc; do it all the time:)
Any help much appreciated... (may be a video on the subject would help many many others with the pitfalls of 'adapters'?)
Cheers
As I understand it, the flange distance of Nikon camera bodies means that other SLR lenses won't easily adapt to them, usually requiring an adaptor with an extra element to allow infinity focus. It might be easier in the final analysis to look for a good Minolta body?
@@zenography7923 Yeah, got some SRT101's - lovely cameras!
I have the Minolta MD 135 2.8 instead of the MC. Is there any difference? Mine does exhibits what you describe as the Minolta character of high contrast and vibrant colors. I did not use it enough as it is a heavy lens despite a size that is not big. It has a built in lens hood and very well made. I must get it out more. Thanks for a review that renewed my fire for the 135
This is difficult to find info on, but I wouldn't imagine the differences would be that great - different coatings perhaps?
For Minolta lens questions you should check here: artaphot.ch/minolta-sr/objektive/171-minolta-135mm-f28 in German, but autotranslate should help (I haven‘t tried as I am a native speaker)
For a 135mm comparison: artaphot.ch/minolta-sr/objektiv-vergleiche/327-nex-5n-und-135mm-teleobjektive
The Minolta MD 135 mm f/ 2.8 is a 5/5, while the Minolta MC Tele Rokkor-PF 135 mm f/ 2.8 is a 6/5. Guess which one should be better. By the way, I have no idea how you could pay less than 10£ for the MC, unless it fell and was used to grow boletus.On eBay you can nuy the empty box for 9€ (+ shipment).
I have the Chinar 135 2.8 in K mount a decent lens
Gotta get your hands on a Pentax 135 2.5.
I'd love to!
Why are we whispering ? Is baby sleeping :) On a second note , i think Tair is the best because one reason , it has no rear element . Dont know about others . But this is good for modifying it and adding a magnifying lens in the place where usually rear element is and you cant do it . When you do this you get Speed Boost , better CA , better resolution wider view .
dont know if other lenses have rear element in this video .
Wow, that sounds like a cool mod - really interesting!
@@zenography7923 well it just gets rid of crop factor on modern sensors of smaller size , gets rid of that penalty . makes the lens work like it should . Most ppl convert Focal length when they calculate for crop factor , but rarely do they crop their F number , no one likes to do that but its true , if you waste light by not shining it on your sensor , its lost , so one needs to focus all the light to the imagining plane and then lens will work as advertised so to say , or as it should .
Except when one one will crop in post anyway , if that is the case then its best to not remove sensor crop factor and shoot cropped from get go .
nikkor 135mm hands down
There is a Vivitar 135/1.5 lens
www.photo.net/discuss/threads/vivitar-135mm-f-1-5-lens.231142/
huh?? Tair 11A cheapest is over $300!!! get real
They vary between countries and seem to be cheaper here in the UK.
Your NOT looking in the right places. Skip eBay do the work
I found it for $35 (us) at a antique store. It came with the original case and 3 filters in excellent condition.
why is the takumar and the Carl Zeiss Jena in the intro and outro, but not in the comparison?
I think he's reviewed those lenses previously.
I've reviewed them both previously. Also, the Minolta in this video was lent to me for a review some months ago and it's now gone back. So although I still have the shots I took with it, and some stills of the lens itself, I couldn't feature it in the video, and something had to fill the gap!
Claiming 135 mm is a very usefull focal is a lie. It was never intended as usefull but as a compromise. As every compromise it is not the most usable in none of the fields it compromises.
Meyer optik 135 is best in this league
I've heard that's a very nice lens, but have never used one. Maybe someday!