Microaces Sopwith Pup, Improvements, and adjustments.
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- Опубликовано: 17 сен 2024
- Repairs and improvements to Microaces Chin Chow.
Lets look at what we can do.
Part 9 of instructional video posted 26th March 24.
Airframe 1/24th
Scale Controls Rudder, Elevator, Throttle
Length 250mm / 9.8" Wingspan 360mm /
14.2" Wing Area 3.3 sq dm / 51 sq in.
Flying Weight. 36 - 38g/1.2 - 1.3oz Wing Load ~11.2 g/sq.dm / 3.7 oz/sq.ft.
My all up weight 48g.
Recommended Receiver Microaces AIO 5 Channel Receiver Rec. Motor / G.Box Microaces
My receiver supplied by Steve Webb Servos.
Motor Gearbox with LONG prop shaft Rec.
Prop GWS 4530
Skill Level - Build Intermediate Skill Level - Pilot Intermediate
Tools required Scalpel, 180 Grit sandpaper or stick, straight edge, tweezers Rec.
Adhesive Deluxe Materials Foam 2 Foam Aliphatic glue.
microaces.mysh....
So simple the paper cover is brilliant . She did look a little tail heavy yet .God job man .
Thank you, I did manage in the end to get the C of G bang on by adding a little then adding a little more, it took about five attempts and being persistent to get it right in the end. Flew like a rocket by the end of the day, so a result in the end. Thank you for your comments.
A really good vid Nick. Very informative .
Thank you. You should have been there, the other Sopwith Pup did a head on with another model. Chopped half the wing off, top and bottom.
Beautiful plane, job, & fix.
I knew the moment the plane was in its initial take off run you came darn close to nailed it.
I still have to wait till warmer weather here in the Catskills. I want to get my November build Micro L19 Birddog trimmed for flight and flying on early no wind mornings.
Thank you for your comment, it took persistence and about five trial goes to get the balance bang on, but that was after filming, fly`s great now.
Nice improvements, she looked great flying around 👍🏻
Thank you, hope the video was useful?
Hi Nick, glad to see yours is up and flying. One of my pet dislikes (i won't say hate) with these models is the motor and battery cables binding those gears. Your solution is very much appreciated and I'll do this with mine and some of the other aircraft too. I've installed 5gms of lead in mine so I'll try that first and see how it goes. I thought a touch more expo might help aswell.Indoor flying for us has ended now so testing after improvements will have to wait till October. Many thanks for the vids.
Mark, thank you for your comment, the idea just came to me to use paper as a sort of blanket. Works perfectly so feeling a bit pleased with myself. I did get the balance bang on in the end by using masking tape and lead on the nose, bit by bit by bit until correct. Took a while but got there in the end. Yes, expo helps as over controlling is noticeable, I am going to add more expo before my next flight. Thanks again and I hope others find the video useful.
Good suggestions! I've had success with no additional nose weight and some down trim. Also, noticed at the 25:00 mark your cabane struts have split at both ends. Looks like you need to add some glue and squeeze them back together.
Hi Mike, good news on your model not using weight. I tend not to use up all of my trim if I can help it. Yes you are correct about the cabane’s need a drop of glue. I left that shot in as I want others who have the same issue to note that it’s not just them. You may note in most of the videos that the stickers come away. In fairness Jon Porter does point out that he has changed suppliers and he has the same issue. The Microaces range look great, and I will try another.
However, these videos are for those who get stuck and looking for solutions. Further, it’s feedback for further design’s so improvements can be made. As a side note, I took the dummy engine out after filming, the model flew like a rocket 🚀.
In fact possibly too fast.
I would say that talking with others, the SE5a is very popular and fly’s very well.
I may buy one myself.
Enjoy your pup and thank you for your in put, I do value peoples comments.
Well done Nick, a good result in the end well worth the perseverance. Listening to you talking about the dummy engine and they're not being enough room to put your extra lead, something I've done in the past is to just to cut down the top of each cylinder head, you don't notice it and it gives you more room 🤔👍
A good point Cliff, I may do that. As a point of interest, I took the dummy engine out, and it went like a rocket.
Just shows you how much friction it causes.
Hi
0.07 Grams all count but as it leaves a space underneath you can add blue tack or lead under the flap that cannot be seen.
Nice to see it flying looks good in the air.
Ive still not flown mine as ive been away on holiday and don't have an indoor venue at my disposal.
The receivers are cheaper at Microaces than Steve Webb and they come with the soldered plug on for the motor. (I know you dont like that plug) excluding postage.
If I could send you pictures I could show what ive done with my wires but you cannot attached in these comments.
keep up the good work.
Hello Ann,
Thank you for your comments.
I am sorry to hear that indoor spaces are not available to you. May be it is worth poking your nose in to a schools sports hall if the opportunity arises.
As things stand, the local indoor flying club is closing soon as the school hall that they are using is closing this year.
Yes they are pulling down the school.
And so the organisers are looking for a new place. May be you can google a club near to you? I don’t know what part of the country you live and so unable to advise you.
It is the case with what we call bull nose aircraft, that the Balance point will require much more weight due to the ratio of the length of the tail to the length of the nose.
And so, it follows that any added weight has to be placed as far forward as possible. In this case, the cowl.
The cowl can be removed with lighter fluid. The only issue is the amount of free space for the dummy engine.
I experimented with removing the dummy engine, and due to the lack of friction, the model flew like a rocket 🚀
And so, as you can not see the dummy motor anyway, I am leaving it out for now. I have also found a better way to mount the battery by making a paper sock stuck to the inside of the top of the fuz. This allows for a more powerful battery and is very easy to remove and slides in gracefully.
The more I tinker and the more thought I put in to this model, the lighter and faster I can make it, and less problems.
I like this model and it looks great.
I just see that there is room for improvement here n there.
I am in the hope that my videos may help others with similar issues to get this flying. As a side note, and by observation and discussion with others, the best Microaces model is the SE5a which is a favourite of mine.
It stunts really well and looks stunning.
I might invest in one.
As for the receiver, well two things here, Jon Porter takes his time and the flying season is coming to an end.
I can not wait you see, and also Steve Webb models are well known and respected in the model fraternity, I received my replacement receiver two days after ordering it.
It took 10 minutes to fit and I was ready to go. A few extra pounds yes, but no waiting. As for the plug, well these are fragile parts, having a lead takes away the risk of breaking that part and gives flexibility.
I am used to soldering and so it was a very easy thing for me to fit. It took seconds.
All that said, when you do get to fly your pup, please let me know how you got on, I would be most interested.
Again, thank you for your comments, I do appreciate it.