I just looked at buying one of these tools. Did not do it because it was $50. Glad I did not! I have one grease zerk on my tractor front axle pivot that will not take grease. I am about to take it to the dealer for some other service, so I am going to ask him to deal with it. Thanks for sharing!
I have found that sometimes taking out the grease fitting and cleaning the hole inside up to the pin helps. I use a pick or small screwdriver to dig lose the plug. Have also put a drill bit in and turned it by hand to dislodge the debris. Be sure the drill bit is small enough so it doesn't damage the threads. Then spray something like pb blaster or other penetrating oil in to rinse it out. May need to repeat this procedure a number of times. Also as you said running the hydraulic controls can help by getting it in a position that it can take grease.
I think it's gonna take doing something like that or remove the pins and clean it that way. I figured I would try the easiest thing first, but not much luck on the easy way, lol
no need for removal, just take as much grease out as possible so the thinner stuff you want to inject has a chance to get to the hardened places. And forget the grease gun until you have a break through and until then as well leave the tool and its pressure on for a bit to allow the liquid to soak in.
I work on the railroad and have tried to put grease in fitting the wouldn’t take, I used a can of pb blaster with the straw on it to stick in the hole all the way to the pin and start to spray and it will blow the old grease and debris out. Put the fitting back on and it will take the grease, I have that same grease buster and it doesn’t work worth a dam!!!
The tool works very well when using it correctly… it takes about 15 minutes per fitting to tap the penetrating oil in and has saved me multiple times on excavators,Bull dozers ect… the idea is to get the penetrating oil to break down gunk up over time… usually 3 rounds of oil and leave it set for 20 minutes each round… takes some time but a lot quicker and easier than changing pins out depending on the application and equipment
I don't think anyone ever greased those pins since new by the looks of it. I wound up removing the pins and drilling out the gunk . I couldn't even hardly dig it out with a pick it was so hard.
I had a dump truck that had a fitting that was plugged up too. It was so bad the dump body would not come back down with out the help of a come along. The only way I could get grease in it was to heat it up with a torch and then pump some grease in it.
@@stitchthisditchthat259 yeah grease gun would build pressure and get stuck. Pulled the fitting and just blew a hole through with my plasma cutter. Works perfect now.
I used one of these tools on a suspension on an old pic up truck I bought. All in all it worked pretty good. It opened up 6 out 8 stuck/clogged zerks that wasn't taking grease. Once you get one to open its satisfying to hear the joint pop and see penetrating oil come out. Those other two I didn't get will need to be pulled apart and cleaned out. I found Liquid Wrench penetration oil in the yellow bottle works really well. This is a very MESSY job! Where goggles, and gloves, and prepare to clean the penetration oil off the floor or driveway. So yes these do work, but if the joint has too much dirt, rust, caked on old grease, you may need to just bite the bullet and pull the pin, bearing, whatever you are greasing apart. Also try moving the joint around some. If Chase might of moved the loader up some, he might of found an angle that created just enough clearance to get the joints broken so they would of taken grease.
The pins were clogged solid all the way through is what I found when I pulled it apart. Pretty sure it wasn't ever greased since new! Had to take pick and small drill bit to get the pins opened up.
Best to not use aerosol to fill as the fluid can be bound to the propellant hampering the shock of the fluid. I usually remove the fitting and clean out old grease. Inject acetone to help dissolve the grease. Then try using a lite oil in the tool. The lite oil transfers the hydraulic action a little better and protects the seals in the tool.
If I were doing something like this I would wear safety glasses to protect my eyes against anything splashed up by the tool. Also hammering on any other hardened surface requires their use.
If a fitting is clogged I replace it. Clearing it will force the glop that has it clogged into the ball joint. Remove it first, then clear or replace the fitting.
If the fitting is in an akward tight spot, could I attach this tool to a grease gun hose? I'm thinking passenger automotive vehicle applications, although I don't imagine the need would as strong as for AG equipment.
@@jodycolquitt8910 I’m sure this tool would push out the crud out of any fitting that isn’t totally screwed up. The tool is made for the actual joint and for that application I’d say junk is the appropriate word for the tool.
Do you think this’ll help with a kingpin problem on my 68 f250? Despite installing new grease fittings, I can’t get it to accept grease no matter what on just one side. I think it’s coked up old grease in there forming a tight bond refusing to let fresh grease in. So I thought this might help me?
All the people saying take the fitting out don’t do this as a job. I grease dump trucks. The 20 minutes it takes to get the fitting out, drill/pick out all the grease, put a new fitting on (if we have one at the shop) and hope it takes grease is a lot less cost effective than shoving a light oil inside of it. And yes, in worse case scenarios, you’ll obviously need to take the fitting out and clean the old hard grease out. This tool isn’t for hardcore jobs, just stuff the electric/ pneumatic grease gun can’t push past.
I know how to use it. Fact is, it doesn't have a 100 percent success rate. Just like most tools There's just some pins that are to clogged for it to work on.
Prob would have been easier to knock the pin out and clean it properly and get all the rust debris out of the grease port so all that shit isn’t wearing your pins and bushing out.
I had similar issue with my skid steer. Bottom pins wouldn’t take any grease. Bushings are half wore out. Previous owner quit greasing after dirt clogged the zerts. Had to take it all apart clean dirt and shit out. They are little sloppy but now take grease
I have a JD555 that won't take grease in that same fitting. Took zerk and pin out and cleaned and replaced. Still won't take grease. Raise the bucket high in the air and it takes grease. Go figure!
I'm certainly not a painter, but it's good enough for a semi hood that stays covered in bug guts Imo LoL. Paint and body is a tough business. I know a few who have tried and failed. I'm in Louisiana.
I think the hole in the joint is clogged up with old gunk and rust not just the fitting itself. The one on the front has a hole through the center of the pin probably 3-4 inches long behind the fitting and I think it is just all clogged up. Probably have to remove the pins and clean with carb cleaner and a pick to get the gunk out. Or be like the last owner and not worry about it 😂😂
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I just looked at buying one of these tools. Did not do it because it was $50. Glad I did not! I have one grease zerk on my tractor front axle pivot that will not take grease. I am about to take it to the dealer for some other service, so I am going to ask him to deal with it. Thanks for sharing!
I have found that sometimes taking out the grease fitting and cleaning the hole inside up to the pin helps. I use a pick or small screwdriver to dig lose the plug. Have also put a drill bit in and turned it by hand to dislodge the debris. Be sure the drill bit is small enough so it doesn't damage the threads. Then spray something like pb blaster or other penetrating oil in to rinse it out. May need to repeat this procedure a number of times. Also as you said running the hydraulic controls can help by getting it in a position that it can take grease.
I think it's gonna take doing something like that or remove the pins and clean it that way. I figured I would try the easiest thing first, but not much luck on the easy way, lol
no need for removal, just take as much grease out as possible so the thinner stuff you want to inject has a chance to get to the hardened places. And forget the grease gun until you have a break through and until then as well leave the tool and its pressure on for a bit to allow the liquid to soak in.
I work on the railroad and have tried to put grease in fitting the wouldn’t take, I used a can of pb blaster with the straw on it to stick in the hole all the way to the pin and start to spray and it will blow the old grease and debris out. Put the fitting back on and it will take the grease, I have that same grease buster and it doesn’t work worth a dam!!!
I just bought one and I am going to give it a try this evening, I have two pins on my skid steer that will not take lube.
Maybe lifting the shovel up then tap, down then tap would help also. I just got one of these for my outboard swivel.
I used the same tool on a lower ball joint on my 2002 GMC 1500 that I couldn't get grease into. Worked great!
I've used it on different things since, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Just depends on how bad it is.
The tool works very well when using it correctly… it takes about 15 minutes per fitting to tap the penetrating oil in and has saved me multiple times on excavators,Bull dozers ect… the idea is to get the penetrating oil to break down gunk up over time… usually 3 rounds of oil and leave it set for 20 minutes each round… takes some time but a lot quicker and easier than changing pins out depending on the application and equipment
I don't think anyone ever greased those pins since new by the looks of it. I wound up removing the pins and drilling out the gunk . I couldn't even hardly dig it out with a pick it was so hard.
Did you ever try it on an escavator down where the track adjustment grade fitting is
@@adammorrison421 I have not
You are supposed to tap it slowly and let the solvent dissolve the grease and then tap some more. It won't all force in at once.
I had a dump truck that had a fitting that was plugged up too. It was so bad the dump body would not come back down with out the help of a come along. The only way I could get grease in it was to heat it up with a torch and then pump some grease in it.
I had some fittings that I pulled apart and the coller inside was not installed correctly so the hole was not aligned with the fitting.
So it was causing your oil to leak from the end of the tool instead of force itself through? I think that may be my problem
@@stitchthisditchthat259 yeah grease gun would build pressure and get stuck. Pulled the fitting and just blew a hole through with my plasma cutter. Works perfect now.
Thanks for the demo, Chase. 👍🏽🤠 10/2/23
I used one of these tools on a suspension on an old pic up truck I bought. All in all it worked pretty good. It opened up 6 out 8 stuck/clogged zerks that wasn't taking grease. Once you get one to open its satisfying to hear the joint pop and see penetrating oil come out. Those other two I didn't get will need to be pulled apart and cleaned out.
I found Liquid Wrench penetration oil in the yellow bottle works really well.
This is a very MESSY job! Where goggles, and gloves, and prepare to clean the penetration oil off the floor or driveway. So yes these do work, but if the joint has too much dirt, rust, caked on old grease, you may need to just bite the bullet and pull the pin, bearing, whatever you are greasing apart.
Also try moving the joint around some. If Chase might of moved the loader up some, he might of found an angle that created just enough clearance to get the joints broken so they would of taken grease.
The pins were clogged solid all the way through is what I found when I pulled it apart. Pretty sure it wasn't ever greased since new! Had to take pick and small drill bit to get the pins opened up.
Best to not use aerosol to fill as the fluid can be bound to the propellant hampering the shock of the fluid. I usually remove the fitting and clean out old grease. Inject acetone to help dissolve the grease. Then try using a lite oil in the tool. The lite oil transfers the hydraulic action a little better and protects the seals in the tool.
pb blaster aerosol actually will leave micro bubbles that make it hard for that little piston to work.
Whay you use to pump
The graese
I've used transmission fluid.
As as a thin fluid to break up the solid Greece. Or just replaced the zurich fitting and cleaned the old grease out.
It was the actual pin clogged all the way through. Had to remove pin and drill out hardened grease.
If I recorded myself trying the same thing almost identical,don’t give up I’m still at it.Waiting to see how you do
You should raise your bucket up and down while hitting the tool, might help
It work 💪 for me / yes u have to work 💪with it well 👍
A lot of times you just got to take the joint apart I reckon. Persistence is the best tool for getting a fitting unclogged,, works on most everything.
If I were doing something like this I would wear safety glasses to protect my eyes against anything splashed up by the tool. Also hammering on any other hardened surface requires their use.
If a fitting is clogged I replace it.
Clearing it will force the glop that has it clogged into the ball joint. Remove it first, then clear or replace the fitting.
Couple seconds of heat from a propane torch on the nipple works for me.
Just have to be careful about it.
I wonder if a heat gun would work.
Yeah I just use the torch.
If the fitting is in an akward tight spot, could I attach this tool to a grease gun hose?
I'm thinking passenger automotive vehicle applications, although I don't imagine the need would as strong as for AG equipment.
Tool is garbage, hardly ever works, just put a new one in
@@jodycolquitt8910 ok, but what if the fitting isn't the issue, but there is a clog in the pathway of the part receiving grease?
@@jodycolquitt8910 I’m sure this tool would push out the crud out of any fitting that isn’t totally screwed up. The tool is made for the actual joint and for that application I’d say junk is the appropriate word for the tool.
Do you think this’ll help with a kingpin problem on my 68 f250? Despite installing new grease fittings, I can’t get it to accept grease no matter what on just one side. I think it’s coked up old grease in there forming a tight bond refusing to let fresh grease in. So I thought this might help me?
No probably not, I've had to pull the zerk out and boil the grease out and start over
Try liquid kroil,after injecting in into the joint let it sit for about 5 min if it still doesn't work repeat
Have you ever tested whether it's really worth it to purchase a Dooxi Car Adaptation products?
All the people saying take the fitting out don’t do this as a job. I grease dump trucks. The 20 minutes it takes to get the fitting out, drill/pick out all the grease, put a new fitting on (if we have one at the shop) and hope it takes grease is a lot less cost effective than shoving a light oil inside of it. And yes, in worse case scenarios, you’ll obviously need to take the fitting out and clean the old hard grease out. This tool isn’t for hardcore jobs, just stuff the electric/ pneumatic grease gun can’t push past.
Recommend you watch a video on how to use this
I know how to use it. Fact is, it doesn't have a 100 percent success rate. Just like most tools There's just some pins that are to clogged for it to work on.
Prob would have been easier to knock the pin out and clean it properly and get all the rust debris out of the grease port so all that shit isn’t wearing your pins and bushing out.
That's what I wound up doing. The pins and bushings are already wore from previous owners neglect but I at least got some grease in them now.
I had similar issue with my skid steer. Bottom pins wouldn’t take any grease. Bushings are half wore out. Previous owner quit greasing after dirt clogged the zerts. Had to take it all apart clean dirt and shit out. They are little sloppy but now take grease
Pulling the pin and then blow with grease gun to clear plugged passage
Gently tap on the fitting, not hammer it! Sometimes lifting the bucket will help to allow it to take grease...
I have a simular at my work i use hydralic oil in mine. Smash it in let it sit for a min/or use the mashine and try again w greese.
Light oil or WD-40 works good.
Wd 40 would have been the best choice probably cause it has more solvent in it I think, but I didn't have any on hand.
Yup 👍🏼
didnt work for me as well
I have a JD555 that won't take grease in that same fitting. Took zerk and pin out and cleaned and replaced. Still won't take grease. Raise the bucket high in the air and it takes grease. Go figure!
I use atf
U save 💵300.00 bucks 👍
Don't use aerosol type liquid.
PB Blaster works good in those
Maybe watch a vid on how to use the tool properly you would have better results
Where you located me. , I saw you painted your hoods ... why don’t you start a painting business...bet you will make good money
I'm certainly not a painter, but it's good enough for a semi hood that stays covered in bug guts Imo LoL. Paint and body is a tough business. I know a few who have tried and failed. I'm in Louisiana.
probably you had to use a much bigger hammer ...
Jb tools has it for $16.00
I've never seen the grease fittings your working on because you would just replace the grease fitting if you could . Interesting idea , nice try bud.
I think the hole in the joint is clogged up with old gunk and rust not just the fitting itself. The one on the front has a hole through the center of the pin probably 3-4 inches long behind the fitting and I think it is just all clogged up. Probably have to remove the pins and clean with carb cleaner and a pick to get the gunk out. Or be like the last owner and not worry about it 😂😂
Packaged in the USA. That was why you paid $60 for it, in the name of patriotism.
It's cheaper on Amazon, but retail store and taxes gotta get their share to.
Produce
American Made , worth the extra to support my fellow citizens .
Change the fittin. They're very cheap.