That was very helpful! My '78 280z has an issue of only engaging near the very top of pedal travel. I assumed it is a worn clutch, but I noticed that the master and slave are not original. Do you think the yoke on the master cylinder could be adjusted to correct this or am I just dreaming? I would love for that to be the answer instead of a new clutch of course. Thanks again for a great video.
Usually a worn clutch will show slippage. If you haven't bled the clutch in a while, it may be time. A couple of months back I was bleeding a friend's clutch slave, and the pedal feel was greatly improved. Here was my process: 1. I used a turkey baster to remove the dark fluid from the master reservoir. 2. I refilled the reservoir with fresh fluid. 3. I repeated steps 1 and 2 a couple of more times, and then I didn't refill. 4. I took some blue paper towel to wipe inside the master reservoir to remove the last of the debris. 5. I put the rest of the fluid in the refill bottle of an air compressor powered vacuum bleeder. An inexpensive example can be found by searching for "KUNTEC Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder Tool". The kit comes with several different adapters for the reservoir. a. Pick the correct size adapter and put it on the refill bottle. b. Invert the refill bottle and put it on the reservoir. c. Open the valve on the refill bottle to fill the reservoir. 6. Go underneath with the vacuum bottle. 7. Loop the hose of the vacuum bottle over one of the battery cables and attach the end to the slave cylinder. The vertical run in the hose prevents air from getting back into the slave. 8. Crack open the bleed screw. 9. Use the vacuum bottle to pull fluid through the hydraulic circuit until it looks nice and clean. 10. Close the bleed screw. 11. Get a friend/wife/gf/enemy/stranger in the car. 12. Tell your assistant to push the clutch pedal to the floor and hold. 13. Crack open the bleed screw. 14. Close the bleed screw. 15. Tell your assistant to release the pedal. 16. Repeat 12-15, asking the assistant for feedback on if the pedal is getting stiffer.
If you were positive that you had the correct replacement rubber hose for the slave cylinder , you could have cut the hose off close to the metal fitting and used a deep socket to break the nut loose!
That was very helpful! My '78 280z has an issue of only engaging near the very top of pedal travel. I assumed it is a worn clutch, but I noticed that the master and slave are not original. Do you think the yoke on the master cylinder could be adjusted to correct this or am I just dreaming? I would love for that to be the answer instead of a new clutch of course. Thanks again for a great video.
Usually a worn clutch will show slippage. If you haven't bled the clutch in a while, it may be time. A couple of months back I was bleeding a friend's clutch slave, and the pedal feel was greatly improved. Here was my process:
1. I used a turkey baster to remove the dark fluid from the master reservoir.
2. I refilled the reservoir with fresh fluid.
3. I repeated steps 1 and 2 a couple of more times, and then I didn't refill.
4. I took some blue paper towel to wipe inside the master reservoir to remove the last of the debris.
5. I put the rest of the fluid in the refill bottle of an air compressor powered vacuum bleeder. An inexpensive example can be found by searching for "KUNTEC Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder Tool". The kit comes with several different adapters for the reservoir.
a. Pick the correct size adapter and put it on the refill bottle.
b. Invert the refill bottle and put it on the reservoir.
c. Open the valve on the refill bottle to fill the reservoir.
6. Go underneath with the vacuum bottle.
7. Loop the hose of the vacuum bottle over one of the battery cables and attach the end to the slave cylinder. The vertical run in the hose prevents air from getting back into the slave.
8. Crack open the bleed screw.
9. Use the vacuum bottle to pull fluid through the hydraulic circuit until it looks nice and clean.
10. Close the bleed screw.
11. Get a friend/wife/gf/enemy/stranger in the car.
12. Tell your assistant to push the clutch pedal to the floor and hold.
13. Crack open the bleed screw.
14. Close the bleed screw.
15. Tell your assistant to release the pedal.
16. Repeat 12-15, asking the assistant for feedback on if the pedal is getting stiffer.
@@myZcarlife That great advice. Thanks for weighing in! Subbed.
If you were positive that you had the correct replacement rubber hose for the slave cylinder , you could have cut the hose off close to the metal fitting and used a deep socket to break the nut loose!
You think this same process will work for a Datsun 510?
It should. I am not thrilled by reverse bleeding. I think using the vacuum bleeding method works better.