Nice to see a non 3D printed ant, always enjoy the drone arm technique. Just a heads up, I've worked with Mark who built the malenki nano to make an improved version of these n20 escs with centre braking for better driving as well as proper 2S support (the ones you use in the video can die from more than 5V over time sadly - spoke with the manufacturer about this their spec page is wrong.) Mark's ones also mount at a right angle which would fit better in this bot. Happy to send you some to try out? They're called red escs and we've just put them on the BBB shop.
I saw those! they look good! I would be up to do a review, but full disclosure I am working on my own ESCs right now One is larger and cheap, the other is tiny The small one is the same size as a dfrobot esc, but doesn't mount to a motor, and instead is dual-channel. I've got a prototype of the larger one up and running, I'm just working on refining the code, the smaller one is a few months away yet
@@TeamPanicRobotics sounds good, the more escs out there the better really, hope the projects go smoothly! Small one sounds v impressive. May drop you a message for a review then :)
Thanks a bunch for creating videos like this. they are perfect for someone like me just beginning to wrap their mind about tiny robot combat. I've been filling out my notebook with the craziest ideas I can think of and most of them are easy to quickly see why they don't make sense. I did come up with one hypothetical I'd love to hear your opinion on - if I made this exact bot but replaced the carbon fiber stick with a strong, hard spring, how might it behave when hitting an opponent? Would it make the bot less likely to ricochet around the box? Would the spring break?
hmmm not 100% sure, but best bet on a hit your weapon will wobble around as the spring flexes. You wont go flying like this bot does. I think you'd be in danger of hitting yourself with your weapon
I know i am a bit late but also most of the kinetic energy would be diverted into you own robot instead of the other one because the spring would bounce agressivly after hitting something and increase the chance to hit your own bot
Can you maybe put links to the electronics that you use in your video descriptions? I know that it takes more time, but it would be really helpful to future bot builders. Thank you.
I do when I'm explicitly making tutorial videos, like my beginner spinner video: ruclips.net/video/sUtezwaurLQ/видео.html (which uses 99% the same electronics as this build) I don't put links in most videos for 3 reasons: 1) 50%-90% of the time I am testing electronics in a build, I chop and change a lot, testing lots of different things to see what works best, I don't want to provide a link for something I haven't put through at least 2 full competitions. Because providing a link feels like a recommendation, and I cant recommend something with confidence until I know how well it works 2) links expire, things I have bought from Aliexpress or eBay will sometimes just not exist anymore 6-12 months after the purchase. I try to remedy that by using search links instead but it's not a perfect system and using it you might not get exactly what I did 3) time as you mentioned, it's not major for one video, but I have produced hundreds of videos now, if it takes me 5 minutes to add links for a single video, doing my full backlog would take near on a days worth of work to do. (and in some cases it takes more than 5 minutes, I have a bunch of stuff sitting in boxes at home bought on sale sometime in the past 1-3 years that I intend to put into a bot someday. ) And if any links break or a site I've been using to get electronics from goes down then I'd need to put in more hours to keep things up to date So in summary, i'm going to stick with only doing this for tutorial videos, as its quicker, easier and means that future bot builders get the correct information on parts I've fully vetted and know work well
Any idea if tough resins (SLA) would be viable? I'd hate to need to buy a new printer to get into the hobby but despite your video it seems printing is needed for most practical designs. Esun Hard-Tough and similar claims a 50+ MPa tensile strength and are "ABS-like"
I dont know for sure, as I dont know how they take a hit. tensile strength is less important than how the material breaks, PLA technically has a higher tensile strength than ABS, but its a worse combat material because it shatters when hit, whereas ABS chunks out This means that a high-impact hit (90+ Mpa or so, enough to break either material) will crack a PLA chassis along print lines, possibly ripping the bot in half, or will take a chunk out of the wall of the ABS. This is why I print all my chassis in ABS If the tough resins are really "ABS like" in their response to high-impact hits, they should be fine If you have a test box handy I'd print a test chassis from the resin and hit it with a spinner to see how it behaves
@@TeamPanicRobotics thanks for the feedback. Love your content (binged like 5 hours today while working). I'll try to figure out the viability but appatently the nearest events are a 5 hour drive from me (Vancouver). Might just get the transmitter and motors for making other rc things (ie gimmics for dnd group and rc of my Aptera model). When I get my Aptera I'll get him less guilty driving that far.
thanks for making this :D it's one problem to not have a 3d printer, next problem is to learn to design things, and if it doesnt work keep waiting until parts arrive in mail, so a "simple" build could last a long time. how's the strength and weight of that box compared to a printed one?
My US antweight undercutter is built completely with hand tools and off the shelf parts. The worst part was waiting for motors from fingertech to arrive. It holds up pretty well for a UHMW box and the frame is about half my weight.
@@fromfin90 I realize I dodn't give any info about how thick the UHMW was and what's holding it together. It's 3/8 inches thick on the sides and 1/8 of the top and bottom. All the edges have tabs that interlock and the corners have 2 these in each one: www.servocity.com/90-angle-bracket/
It's biased AF, but you asked for challenges. So, how about designing a UK legal beginner antweight spinner? Sadly for me, I can't just make my version of Gestimate because the drone arm alone is too long XD Quick reminder that the size limit is 10cm3, but the bot doesn't have to fit flat in that space, it just has to be contained inside it. Other then that biased challenge... Remake your Ring Spinner ant?
I honestly don't like the UK cube rule, its simply a stifle, that was put in place a long time ago, to fix a problem with the meta that doesn't exist anymore I might maybe do a cube rule design in future, but I don't like the idea of giving away designs that allow the enforcement of what I feel is a very outdated rule. I do love ring spinners, so maybe its time to get back into them
@@TeamPanicRobotics Yeah, I don't like it either, yet another reason I want to build a beetle over an ant, but I doubt one new builder (me) making a fuss about it is going to change anything haha. Speaking of ring spinners, is it worth designing a single tooth "anti spinner" blade for one, or just stick with a multi-tooth design?
for me? a couple of bucks for the electronics box and the motor mounts, I had everything else at home already. So lets say $10 For a new person? $150-$200 most of which is in the transmitter and electronics which are reusable in the next build
"If you don't have a 3d printer" I have one next to me right now printing the top to a battlebot and another in the living room printing the body🤣 What? Its my obsession. This is also my first battlebot, its a drum spinner I spent all day designing
Excellent, an old fashioned, build it yourself, non 3D printed robot!😊
What a scam. That drill was clearly 3D printed.
The fact that everyone expects a 3D printer to be required to have a good robot is kind of sad
Challenge: make a shieldbot using springs and a thin piece of metal
A shieldbot??
@@TeamPanicRobotics i assume he means either a wedge, or a kind of flat plow similar to Duck!
Yea sorry
Great video to show everyone that you don’t need an expensive 3D printer to build a viable combat robot
expensive???? Something about robots that needs something special as a printer. They are super cheap these days.
Nice to see a non 3D printed ant, always enjoy the drone arm technique. Just a heads up, I've worked with Mark who built the malenki nano to make an improved version of these n20 escs with centre braking for better driving as well as proper 2S support (the ones you use in the video can die from more than 5V over time sadly - spoke with the manufacturer about this their spec page is wrong.) Mark's ones also mount at a right angle which would fit better in this bot. Happy to send you some to try out? They're called red escs and we've just put them on the BBB shop.
I saw those! they look good!
I would be up to do a review, but full disclosure I am working on my own ESCs right now
One is larger and cheap, the other is tiny
The small one is the same size as a dfrobot esc, but doesn't mount to a motor, and instead is dual-channel.
I've got a prototype of the larger one up and running, I'm just working on refining the code, the smaller one is a few months away yet
@@TeamPanicRobotics sounds good, the more escs out there the better really, hope the projects go smoothly! Small one sounds v impressive.
May drop you a message for a review then :)
Tombstone’s young looking good lol
Thanks a bunch for creating videos like this. they are perfect for someone like me just beginning to wrap their mind about tiny robot combat. I've been filling out my notebook with the craziest ideas I can think of and most of them are easy to quickly see why they don't make sense. I did come up with one hypothetical I'd love to hear your opinion on - if I made this exact bot but replaced the carbon fiber stick with a strong, hard spring, how might it behave when hitting an opponent? Would it make the bot less likely to ricochet around the box? Would the spring break?
hmmm not 100% sure, but best bet on a hit your weapon will wobble around as the spring flexes. You wont go flying like this bot does.
I think you'd be in danger of hitting yourself with your weapon
I know i am a bit late but also most of the kinetic energy would be diverted into you own robot instead of the other one because the spring would bounce agressivly after hitting something and increase the chance to hit your own bot
Can you maybe put links to the electronics that you use in your video descriptions? I know that it takes more time, but it would be really helpful to future bot builders. Thank you.
I do when I'm explicitly making tutorial videos, like my beginner spinner video: ruclips.net/video/sUtezwaurLQ/видео.html
(which uses 99% the same electronics as this build)
I don't put links in most videos for 3 reasons:
1) 50%-90% of the time I am testing electronics in a build, I chop and change a lot, testing lots of different things to see what works best, I don't want to provide a link for something I haven't put through at least 2 full competitions. Because providing a link feels like a recommendation, and I cant recommend something with confidence until I know how well it works
2) links expire, things I have bought from Aliexpress or eBay will sometimes just not exist anymore 6-12 months after the purchase. I try to remedy that by using search links instead but it's not a perfect system and using it you might not get exactly what I did
3) time as you mentioned, it's not major for one video, but I have produced hundreds of videos now, if it takes me 5 minutes to add links for a single video, doing my full backlog would take near on a days worth of work to do. (and in some cases it takes more than 5 minutes, I have a bunch of stuff sitting in boxes at home bought on sale sometime in the past 1-3 years that I intend to put into a bot someday. )
And if any links break or a site I've been using to get electronics from goes down then I'd need to put in more hours to keep things up to date
So in summary, i'm going to stick with only doing this for tutorial videos, as its quicker, easier and means that future bot builders get the correct information on parts I've fully vetted and know work well
I'll have to try that.
Do you have a link of where to buy it all?
this build is similar and it has all the parts listed: ruclips.net/video/sUtezwaurLQ/видео.html
Outstanding video!
Where is the blade from?
This is what I wanted to know as well. All of the parts are mentioned in this or other videos, but the actual spinning weapon is never mentioned :(
Any idea if tough resins (SLA) would be viable? I'd hate to need to buy a new printer to get into the hobby but despite your video it seems printing is needed for most practical designs. Esun Hard-Tough and similar claims a 50+ MPa tensile strength and are "ABS-like"
I dont know for sure, as I dont know how they take a hit.
tensile strength is less important than how the material breaks,
PLA technically has a higher tensile strength than ABS, but its a worse combat material because it shatters when hit, whereas ABS chunks out
This means that a high-impact hit (90+ Mpa or so, enough to break either material) will crack a PLA chassis along print lines, possibly ripping the bot in half, or will take a chunk out of the wall of the ABS.
This is why I print all my chassis in ABS
If the tough resins are really "ABS like" in their response to high-impact hits, they should be fine
If you have a test box handy I'd print a test chassis from the resin and hit it with a spinner to see how it behaves
@@TeamPanicRobotics thanks for the feedback. Love your content (binged like 5 hours today while working). I'll try to figure out the viability but appatently the nearest events are a 5 hour drive from me (Vancouver). Might just get the transmitter and motors for making other rc things (ie gimmics for dnd group and rc of my Aptera model). When I get my Aptera I'll get him less guilty driving that far.
thanks for making this :D it's one problem to not have a 3d printer, next problem is to learn to design things, and if it doesnt work keep waiting until parts arrive in mail, so a "simple" build could last a long time. how's the strength and weight of that box compared to a printed one?
My US antweight undercutter is built completely with hand tools and off the shelf parts. The worst part was waiting for motors from fingertech to arrive. It holds up pretty well for a UHMW box and the frame is about half my weight.
@@DigitalJedi good to know!
@@fromfin90 I realize I dodn't give any info about how thick the UHMW was and what's holding it together. It's 3/8 inches thick on the sides and 1/8 of the top and bottom. All the edges have tabs that interlock and the corners have 2 these in each one: www.servocity.com/90-angle-bracket/
its a little heavier then one I would have printed myself, but it should be a lot stronger as it doesnt have layer lines
@@DigitalJedi very good, thank you
Wish all the luck ;-)
What electronics do you use
Could yo please include a part list of everything and possibly what website you bought it from. thanks
this build is similar and it has all the parts listed: ruclips.net/video/sUtezwaurLQ/видео.html
What time of drill do you use
What are the electronics u use in the box
Challenge: make a roomba into a combat robot
I've been thinking about this for awhile, I just need to get my hands on a second hand roomba
Is this the new Guesstimate?
Its based on Guesstimate, but its not quite the same
It's biased AF, but you asked for challenges. So, how about designing a UK legal beginner antweight spinner? Sadly for me, I can't just make my version of Gestimate because the drone arm alone is too long XD
Quick reminder that the size limit is 10cm3, but the bot doesn't have to fit flat in that space, it just has to be contained inside it.
Other then that biased challenge... Remake your Ring Spinner ant?
I honestly don't like the UK cube rule, its simply a stifle, that was put in place a long time ago, to fix a problem with the meta that doesn't exist anymore
I might maybe do a cube rule design in future, but I don't like the idea of giving away designs that allow the enforcement of what I feel is a very outdated rule.
I do love ring spinners, so maybe its time to get back into them
@@TeamPanicRobotics Yeah, I don't like it either, yet another reason I want to build a beetle over an ant, but I doubt one new builder (me) making a fuss about it is going to change anything haha.
Speaking of ring spinners, is it worth designing a single tooth "anti spinner" blade for one, or just stick with a multi-tooth design?
Ring spinners are a weird case, as they always run a disk
I'd certainly get at least one single tooth ring cut, just to give myself options
what wheels did u use?
These are pololu 40*7mm wheels
How much did this cost ?
for me? a couple of bucks for the electronics box and the motor mounts, I had everything else at home already. So lets say $10
For a new person? $150-$200 most of which is in the transmitter and electronics which are reusable in the next build
What size it that junction box?
Its: 83 x 54 x 31mm
@@TeamPanicRobotics Thank you very much.
"If you don't have a 3d printer" I have one next to me right now printing the top to a battlebot and another in the living room printing the body🤣
What? Its my obsession.
This is also my first battlebot, its a drum spinner I spent all day designing
3d printing is a lot of fun and very powerful!
Good luck with your first build
👦 "I want Guesstimate!"
👩🦰 "We have Guesstimate at home."
Hahahahahahaha