Well done man this is the way I build many of my bots nice to see someone else trying it out I'm looking forward to seeing what other upgrades you do to it and what other people will build as well 🙂
@@TeamPanicRobotics the more you build the better you get but I have to say for your 1st time building this type of set up I have to say you have done a really good job 🙂
Unofficial 'Will it Bot: Kitty Litter tray?' You make a good point about the tools and factoring that into the cost of building robots. I think sometimes it's easy forget that having good tools at your disposal makes it easier to build better robots; a lot of the cost of my robot building is definitely in the tools that I've acquired. Slightly related but in an upcoming release I attempted to build an "Ant" wedge as part of a 9hr challenge out of parts that I had in my robot kit and I just worked it out that it must've cost about £80 ($145AUD) in raw/bulk parts. With a bit of refining and a bit more number crunching (and no time limit), I think it could be a viable option for competition for not a lot of money. The misconceptions that getting into combat robotics is an expensive or difficult hobby to get started in are starting to dwindle. More new blood is never a bad thing! Great work as ever! Keep it up, Ben!
Yeah, I've definitely seen that before, I've spoken to some builders who have this attitude of "we're just regular blokes, anyone can build a robot like us" but there bot is a precision CNC'd lump of steel and aluminium. And I realized that a lot of people quickly forget what its like to not have tools, after they get them and use them for a while. Thats part of the reason for this challenge, to try and get into the sport for the first time again, so I can remember what its like for a new person That build sounds interesting. I think the $150 AUD is a reasonable amount to throw at a first robot. The good thing is that after that ant weights get a lot cheaper to make Hahaha it is a little bit of a "Will it bot", man I havent done one of those in ages. I should
I really dont recommend this Its a cheaper start sure, but its not competitive and its not going to help you grow into the sport A good low end transmitter like the flysky i6, costs more then this robot, but its usable with many robots including ones with weapons. I still have my first one and have used it to control 20+ robots at this point If you are serious about getting into combat robots start the right way
@@TeamPanicRoboticsI was thinking more of printing a body for a remote controlled car transmitter as some rc transmitters are as small as a Malenki and and just switching motors with actual motors
As I said before, I don't think the UK Antweight rules specifically prohibit any kind of radio. The only real requirement is that if it's a spinner it must failsafe. Provided the opponent isn't also using the exact same model, it really won't be a problem - and if they are - then some cooperation is going to be required to turn on the models in the correct sequence so they don't cross-bind.
I have a previous driver set due to working on my dads glasses and cell phones, i'd put two little rear platic triangles to hold the front down a bit while full throttled
You could double the wedge so that it has no "back" side. Just color code so the driver knows where he's going. Maybe design it so that the axles are at mid-height so there's also no "upside down".
You can get around the ground contact problem by using a flexible ground contact like I've done anyway Thin plastic, like acetal makes for a low wegde, and as its flexible you could have enough of it to contact the ground front and back without it messing up the ground contact of your wheels
I did this when I was a kid using a hobby box a tank stearing RC hot wheels and a model airplane motor at the frount bolted to 3large pieces of steel pc case. Looked kind like hypnodisk. It would be interesting to see what Robert cowen would come up with if he did it, he usually seams to have parts and tools appeanty.
Thats a cool first build! I did a tank stearing RC car with bottles for armour and no weapon. I'd love to see Robert take this on but I dont think he will, he has a reputation for precise and efficient designs, its hard to pull that off inside this rule set
@@TeamPanicRobotics yeah that's what I was thinking too, he's known for using and most accurate and professional ways when making bots which would make it fun to see how he would go about using a very small budget and such. I doubt it but I would be fun if these rags to riches bots took off and there were a battle say at the next bugglebots as an extra little side show.
my hebocon bot made out of a RC dalek and an old transmitter. was all stuff I found round the house. but after looking at the price for the parts online used. its about £30 or Aus$54. since then I've replaced some more RC parts to it and on your rules its about £70 now.
Team Panic nice i feel like that robot (could you also tell me it’s name) is going to magically win the competition cause it’s so bad and it will curse the robots it’s fighting to just break down
You can get sheets of lexan for less than the cat litter box at any equivalent of a home depot. Very good chance that would be at your disposal over the litter box
@@TeamPanicRobotics wuuuut? Damn got sheets of leftovers of all kinds of thickness. For the little electronics in those rc cars I got some thick sheets to help reinforce it and add artificial weight
Legitimately sorry for the repeated comments, but wtf do you consider the most accurate/safe control system for us in the UK? I'm tring to get a wiring system ready for a spinner.
For a spinner, you need something that fail-safes correctly. You are putting the safety of your hands in your electronics, so you don't want to cheap out. For a beginner I recommend the flysky fs-i6, they are cheap-ish, have a good bind and fail-safe and work with a bunch of different receivers. I recommend checking out my tutorial on a beginners spinner build: ruclips.net/video/sUtezwaurLQ/видео.html I go through all the parts i used and have links to them in the description
I am SO going to be attempting this! I have a wall-climbing car here with tank-steering which is good, but I can't find anything about whether it's 2.4ghz or not. It should be fun to try though!
Please do! I'm keen to see what you come up with. As for working out if the controller is 2.4ghz, there are 3 types of controllers out there right now and they each have a tell tale mark: - Mhz radios: have a long flexible antenna on the controller and will cross talk with other radios on the same frequency. - 2.4ghz radios: have a short hard antenna or no antenna on the controller at all - IR "radios": have a red or dark transparent piece of plastic in place of an antenna These are more guidelines then definite designs, but it might help
Team Panic Thank you very much! It seems to be 2.4ghz based on your guidelines so that’s good. Now all that’s left is waiting for the hot-glue gun to arrive
An even cheaper option would be to equip a bionic hamster with nunchaku. Disclaimer: Don't equip a bionic hamster with nunchaku. Give it a pointy stick instead. Self-replicating bionic hamsters are available free of charge from the address below.
100% in the spirit and in fact I would highly recommend that approach, I didnt for my build because the library here has not started its 3d printing area back up yet
Hey just a question have you ever tried taking a part a hoverboard to make a 12 pound or a 30 pound robot before cause if you have could you give me some pointers cause I’m trying to make a 30 pound thwack bot and I’m trying to use hoverboards for the drive but I’m scared I might break the hoverboard board
I havent, but I know Death Roll from battlebots uses 4 hoverboard motors to drive. So it seems like 2 have more then enough power for a 30lb and would be over kill in a 12lb My advise would be to stip the useful bits out of the hoverboard and make a custom chassis from Aluminium or steel, and to shock mount everything, especially your wheel mounts
Its using "skid steering" sometimes called "tank steering" Basically one wheel drives forward and the other drives backwards, forcing the robot to turn in the direction of the backwards turning wheel
I made a robot similar to gabriel with a 7.18 usd 3 wheel car and removing the 3rd wheel and putting a knife instead. But its too heavy to fight so I have to do some adjustments to it
I am thinking ironing beads and technical glue instead of glue gun would be a bit cheaper for around 4x the trouble and less reparability. Still, I think both would last one fight, not a full event unless you step up your budget big time on replace parts.
@@TeamPanicRobotics I don't assume they would be much worse than hot glue. They are probably the same stuff as your 3D printing filaments. You might need to grind some up to fill in the holes and you can even bake in a metal mosquito net for extra resilience.
Unfortunately not, the 3rd motor is not controlled by the controller, its turned on by a switch. that makes it illegal for a combat robot to use it for a weapon
I would like a differnet option please, A basic push bot for world wide use, not nesseserily winning strength but realistic for the cost for 4x4 to try to win
Sorry what do you mean by "realistic for the cost for 4x4" This also depends on the weight class you want to fight in. If you are talking 150g antweights, there are half a dozen or more chassis on thingiverse and mymini factory. Any one of those can be printed in pla or preferably abs and have a decent chance in the arena. One thing to remember, when fighting with a wedge/push bot, your driving skill is your only weapon, if you want to be competitive, you need to practice driving
@@TeamPanicRobotics in sorry, I went on a bit of a drunken RUclips binge and did some kinda dumb comments, I'm honestly not sure what I was after myself. I think I was badly asking for an ant weight 4x4 push bot at the cheapest possible, like the one in the video. Again sorry for the randomness but thank you so much for responding anyway :)
Haha All good mate! I've definitely had a couple of drunken YT binges in my time. Thanks for the clarification, I think if you have the funds aim for parts more like the ones I put in my beginners spinner video and find a local library, maker space or hacker space that has a 3d printer you can use for cheap/free
I have looked at it, power banks are heavy and have a limited current output, so they are really only viable for running a wedge bot. I've also been looking at updating the circuit board inside a power bank so it gives higher voltage and higher current, which would make it much more suitable
The ones I used are Gainer brand. Heres an aliexpress link: www.aliexpress.com/item/33055658226.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6304281acrug5y&algo_pvid=8877309d-ca2c-4dc6-8015-594d9ac928f5&algo_expid=8877309d-ca2c-4dc6-8015-594d9ac928f5-15&btsid=0ab6d59515945206713328109ecac1&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ But personally i got mine from Ebay so that they arrived quicker
I think this is a cool idea and at some point I might like to try this. I do want to try and establish some sort of rules about how the prices of tools or shared spaces works. For instance I could get a project based membership at my local makerspace for $30 US and suddenly access a Tormach, laser cutter, drill press, bandsaw, welding equipment etc. but I'm sure that's not exactly within the spirit of the rules here. I also have a Prusa printer which is $800US vs the $500AU that yours is and that same disparity exists between all tools like a hammer, knife, drill, etc. I think it would be nice to have an agreed upon minimal price for any standard tools to have a standard baseline for everyone. Feel free to PM me to discuss!
Hmmm interesting, makerspaces do break this idea a little bit, but I think it can be worked around my limiting the tools used at a makerspace to a basic set, every makerspace I have ever seen has had: a collection of hand tools, a drill press, a laser cutter amd some cordless tools. (not a complete list but thats the idea) This way anyone walking into a local makerspace will find a similar set of tools to replicate the build That disparity is exactly the point of adding the cost of the tool to the project, expensive tools are usually better and easier to use then cheap tools. And once you have used expensive tools for a little while you start to forget what is possible with cheap tools. By adding this as a rule I was attempting to get people to revert back to using the cheap shitty beginners tools, so that beginners can look at the build and copy it 1:1 without feeling like they need to drop thousands on tools first
I did this a while ago but I add a extra part to it being only using internals parts from wish I might have to try it again but try to go less then £45 (with shipping with out is £38)
@@TeamPanicRobotics Its probably going to take months but I will say this maybe add for the challenge you have to use pla/abs from wish as well and see if you can build one only using stuff from wish including material
Can anyone provide a list or link to brands of wall climbers that use both the right kind of steering and have remotes that allow for variable speed control as opposed to just on/off buttons. I just don’t want to purchase the wrong RC for an attempt at this, thanks!
The ones I used are Gainer brand. Heres an aliexpress link: www.aliexpress.com/item/33055658226.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6304281acrug5y&algo_pvid=8877309d-ca2c-4dc6-8015-594d9ac928f5&algo_expid=8877309d-ca2c-4dc6-8015-594d9ac928f5-15&btsid=0ab6d59515945206713328109ecac1&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ But personally i got mine from Ebay so that they arrived quicker
I know a place that sells decent rc cars for $5. That gives me the wheels, motors, and controller. I would have to replace the power source because the rc car runs off normal battery. I can buy a cheap sheet of thin metal for $6 at my local hardware store. Excluding the tools which I already have I could build a bot for probably build a bot for less than $25. I might try I'm new to battlebots and I havnt built one yet
Its very very likely that a $5 RC is not suitable for building a combat robot out of. Very very few RCs are usable as combat robots, the one I show in this video is one of the best around. And the only one I'd use without replacing the controller and drive electronics. If you want to know more I did a whole video on why most RC cars shouldnt be used to build a combat robot: ruclips.net/video/FR5eqFYx9W0/видео.html
Thats a great question, I want to say no, because I feel like most people will have at least a laptop somewhere in the house and basically anything can run the arduino IDE But maybe I am mistaken and it should be included
This playlist has all my tutorials: ruclips.net/p/PLS8Mq0vc8p3ITl15fpOhZ-tfmtj6-BxAO It should get you get started, if you have specific questions feel free to ask, I'll answer what I can
@@TeamPanicRobotics Don't worry dude, I'll plough on. My approach is very much based on buying a transmitter being a necessary evil and seeing how to minimise cost from there. I'm being less strict with myself in terms of tool costs as well, and I'm trying to view it as more of a 'minimum necessary investment' for entering the hobby on a sustainable entry level.
Well done man this is the way I build many of my bots nice to see someone else trying it out I'm looking forward to seeing what other upgrades you do to it and what other people will build as well 🙂
Thanks!
This was a bit dodgy as its a first attempt, but I'm hoping to do more in the future and improve my technique
@@TeamPanicRobotics the more you build the better you get but I have to say for your 1st time building this type of set up I have to say you have done a really good job 🙂
TwoPennyMilk would be so proud! I would imagine this is his build method for all his robots on Antweight Anarchy. (That, and modifying Hexbug toys.)
is the challenge still on, inflation and all ? i dont want the printer offer !!!
20:42 This made me laugh. Just caught me off guard, but sure, naturally occurring ballasts FTW. 😂
Unofficial 'Will it Bot: Kitty Litter tray?'
You make a good point about the tools and factoring that into the cost of building robots. I think sometimes it's easy forget that having good tools at your disposal makes it easier to build better robots; a lot of the cost of my robot building is definitely in the tools that I've acquired.
Slightly related but in an upcoming release I attempted to build an "Ant" wedge as part of a 9hr challenge out of parts that I had in my robot kit and I just worked it out that it must've cost about £80 ($145AUD) in raw/bulk parts. With a bit of refining and a bit more number crunching (and no time limit), I think it could be a viable option for competition for not a lot of money. The misconceptions that getting into combat robotics is an expensive or difficult hobby to get started in are starting to dwindle. More new blood is never a bad thing!
Great work as ever! Keep it up, Ben!
Yeah, I've definitely seen that before, I've spoken to some builders who have this attitude of "we're just regular blokes, anyone can build a robot like us" but there bot is a precision CNC'd lump of steel and aluminium. And I realized that a lot of people quickly forget what its like to not have tools, after they get them and use them for a while. Thats part of the reason for this challenge, to try and get into the sport for the first time again, so I can remember what its like for a new person
That build sounds interesting. I think the $150 AUD is a reasonable amount to throw at a first robot. The good thing is that after that ant weights get a lot cheaper to make
Hahaha it is a little bit of a "Will it bot", man I havent done one of those in ages. I should
I was hoping for something like this!!!
Cool video cardboard aided design or CAD as it’s known lol
do this again you must, as i have friends that need help starting combat robotics
I really dont recommend this
Its a cheaper start sure, but its not competitive and its not going to help you grow into the sport
A good low end transmitter like the flysky i6, costs more then this robot, but its usable with many robots including ones with weapons. I still have my first one and have used it to control 20+ robots at this point
If you are serious about getting into combat robots start the right way
@@TeamPanicRoboticsI was thinking more of printing a body for a remote controlled car transmitter as some rc transmitters are as small as a Malenki and and just switching motors with actual motors
Make robots we will. Taught by master Yoda is we.
As I said before, I don't think the UK Antweight rules specifically prohibit any kind of radio. The only real requirement is that if it's a spinner it must failsafe.
Provided the opponent isn't also using the exact same model, it really won't be a problem - and if they are - then some cooperation is going to be required to turn on the models in the correct sequence so they don't cross-bind.
Why didn't Use the fan for downforce....it last for 3 mins with that fan
I have a previous driver set due to working on my dads glasses and cell phones, i'd put two little rear platic triangles to hold the front down a bit while full throttled
I'm happy I found the car on Ebay
You could double the wedge so that it has no "back" side. Just color code so the driver knows where he's going. Maybe design it so that the axles are at mid-height so there's also no "upside down".
The "no upside down" would not work, now that I think again. Need ground contact. Hmm, the challenges to overcome...
You can get around the ground contact problem by using a flexible ground contact like I've done anyway
Thin plastic, like acetal makes for a low wegde, and as its flexible you could have enough of it to contact the ground front and back without it messing up the ground contact of your wheels
Imagine you have absolutely nothing. Not imaginating lol (I have almost nothing as far as robot combat parts )
I did this when I was a kid using a hobby box a tank stearing RC hot wheels and a model airplane motor at the frount bolted to 3large pieces of steel pc case. Looked kind like hypnodisk.
It would be interesting to see what Robert cowen would come up with if he did it, he usually seams to have parts and tools appeanty.
Thats a cool first build!
I did a tank stearing RC car with bottles for armour and no weapon.
I'd love to see Robert take this on but I dont think he will, he has a reputation for precise and efficient designs, its hard to pull that off inside this rule set
@@TeamPanicRobotics yeah that's what I was thinking too, he's known for using and most accurate and professional ways when making bots which would make it fun to see how he would go about using a very small budget and such.
I doubt it but I would be fun if these rags to riches bots took off and there were a battle say at the next bugglebots as an extra little side show.
I dreamed of doing this as a kid but had no idea how to go about it so just used my RC car against my pals lol
I want to do something like this at some point, but it'd be a 1lb because that's popular where I am.
I use Arduino, Bluetooth, and Cardboard for combat robots. Not tournament legal but a good bash with friends :)
That does sound like a lot of fun!
Late comment, I know, but 50 grams? You have yourself a new fleaweight right there.
It's no surprise I found your comment here. ;)
my hebocon bot made out of a RC dalek and an old transmitter. was all stuff I found round the house. but after looking at the price for the parts online used. its about £30 or Aus$54. since then I've replaced some more RC parts to it and on your rules its about £70 now.
I really want to see you take this to a competition and see how well it does
I'll be taking it to the next local event, but we havent had one in a while because of covid
Team Panic nice i feel like that robot (could you also tell me it’s name) is going to magically win the competition cause it’s so bad and it will curse the robots it’s fighting to just break down
What rc car do you use?
You can get sheets of lexan for less than the cat litter box at any equivalent of a home depot. Very good chance that would be at your disposal over the litter box
Thats very cool
Lexan is not available in hardware stores here, at least not a usable type
@@TeamPanicRobotics wuuuut? Damn got sheets of leftovers of all kinds of thickness. For the little electronics in those rc cars I got some thick sheets to help reinforce it and add artificial weight
Legitimately sorry for the repeated comments, but wtf do you consider the most accurate/safe control system for us in the UK? I'm tring to get a wiring system ready for a spinner.
For a spinner, you need something that fail-safes correctly.
You are putting the safety of your hands in your electronics, so you don't want to cheap out.
For a beginner I recommend the flysky fs-i6, they are cheap-ish, have a good bind and fail-safe and work with a bunch of different receivers.
I recommend checking out my tutorial on a beginners spinner build: ruclips.net/video/sUtezwaurLQ/видео.html
I go through all the parts i used and have links to them in the description
Poly propoline or whatever it’s called is extremely durable it’s what the Brooklyn smasher is made out of (the strongest baseball bat ever)
Cheapest beetle challenge when?
Start with a Cat-Toilet - end with a COMBAT-ROBOT... Awesome! 😂😂😂😂😂
I am SO going to be attempting this! I have a wall-climbing car here with tank-steering which is good, but I can't find anything about whether it's 2.4ghz or not. It should be fun to try though!
Please do! I'm keen to see what you come up with.
As for working out if the controller is 2.4ghz, there are 3 types of controllers out there right now and they each have a tell tale mark:
- Mhz radios: have a long flexible antenna on the controller and will cross talk with other radios on the same frequency.
- 2.4ghz radios: have a short hard antenna or no antenna on the controller at all
- IR "radios": have a red or dark transparent piece of plastic in place of an antenna
These are more guidelines then definite designs, but it might help
Team Panic Thank you very much! It seems to be 2.4ghz based on your guidelines so that’s good. Now all that’s left is waiting for the hot-glue gun to arrive
Does anyone know if the type of switch that is used in that wall-climbing car would be legal in a UK antweight?
I'm not an expert on UK rulesets, but on some previous videos a few people commented that slide switches are ok for antweight bots in the UK
@@TeamPanicRobotics Thank you! Also, do we get extra points for adding googly eyes
Damn, I knew I missed something
An even cheaper option would be to equip a bionic hamster with nunchaku.
Disclaimer: Don't equip a bionic hamster with nunchaku. Give it a pointy stick instead.
Self-replicating bionic hamsters are available free of charge from the address below.
How did you go from antweights to bionic hamsters in the space of one sentence
If you need like 4x controll, beloow $60 isn't too hard
, I'm trying something usable below 6x
Love this! Want to see it fight!
Not sure I'll put it in a full comp, but I might do a scratch match with it and upload the footage
@@TeamPanicRobotics that would be awesome!
Is it in the spirit of the challenge to use a library 3D printer where only the filament price is charged?
100% in the spirit and in fact I would highly recommend that approach,
I didnt for my build because the library here has not started its 3d printing area back up yet
Hey just a question have you ever tried taking a part a hoverboard to make a 12 pound or a 30 pound robot before cause if you have could you give me some pointers cause I’m trying to make a 30 pound thwack bot and I’m trying to use hoverboards for the drive but I’m scared I might break the hoverboard board
I havent, but I know Death Roll from battlebots uses 4 hoverboard motors to drive. So it seems like 2 have more then enough power for a 30lb and would be over kill in a 12lb
My advise would be to stip the useful bits out of the hoverboard and make a custom chassis from Aluminium or steel, and to shock mount everything, especially your wheel mounts
Team Panic yeah I’m thinking of making a thwack bot but I’m trying to figure out how to get the motors out
Use the fan as a spinner weapon
I’m two years late but this is a party at home
How is it turning?
Its using "skid steering" sometimes called "tank steering"
Basically one wheel drives forward and the other drives backwards, forcing the robot to turn in the direction of the backwards turning wheel
I made a robot similar to gabriel with a 7.18 usd 3 wheel car and removing the 3rd wheel and putting a knife instead. But its too heavy to fight so I have to do some adjustments to it
Interesting, is it combat legal?
I.E. does it use a 2.4ghz radio with set bindings?
If so what RC car is it?
I am thinking ironing beads and technical glue instead of glue gun would be a bit cheaper for around 4x the trouble and less reparability.
Still, I think both would last one fight, not a full event unless you step up your budget big time on replace parts.
I hadnt thought of ironing beads, I wonder how well they would hold up in a fight
@@TeamPanicRobotics I don't assume they would be much worse than hot glue. They are probably the same stuff as your 3D printing filaments. You might need to grind some up to fill in the holes and you can even bake in a metal mosquito net for extra resilience.
I mean this was the lowest cost build that could have had a weapon as there was a third motor
Unfortunately not, the 3rd motor is not controlled by the controller, its turned on by a switch.
that makes it illegal for a combat robot to use it for a weapon
@@TeamPanicRoboticscould you do a hack where the weapon comes on with the wheels?
I would like a differnet option please, A basic push bot for world wide use, not nesseserily winning strength but realistic for the cost for 4x4 to try to win
Sorry what do you mean by "realistic for the cost for 4x4"
This also depends on the weight class you want to fight in.
If you are talking 150g antweights, there are half a dozen or more chassis on thingiverse and mymini factory. Any one of those can be printed in pla or preferably abs and have a decent chance in the arena.
One thing to remember, when fighting with a wedge/push bot, your driving skill is your only weapon, if you want to be competitive, you need to practice driving
@@TeamPanicRobotics in sorry, I went on a bit of a drunken RUclips binge and did some kinda dumb comments, I'm honestly not sure what I was after myself.
I think I was badly asking for an ant weight 4x4 push bot at the cheapest possible, like the one in the video.
Again sorry for the randomness but thank you so much for responding anyway :)
Haha All good mate! I've definitely had a couple of drunken YT binges in my time.
Thanks for the clarification, I think if you have the funds aim for parts more like the ones I put in my beginners spinner video and find a local library, maker space or hacker space that has a 3d printer you can use for cheap/free
Random question have you ever tried using a power bank as a power source for any of your bots? and if so is it a good idea?
I have looked at it, power banks are heavy and have a limited current output, so they are really only viable for running a wedge bot.
I've also been looking at updating the circuit board inside a power bank so it gives higher voltage and higher current, which would make it much more suitable
@@TeamPanicRobotics Thanks this was quite helpful :D
Where the hell did you find a lighter in Australia? Aren't you worried someone will pocket it?
Hahaha yeah if I was doing repairs with it at an event I'd make sure to keep a close eye on it
Where did you get the car
The ones I used are Gainer brand.
Heres an aliexpress link: www.aliexpress.com/item/33055658226.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6304281acrug5y&algo_pvid=8877309d-ca2c-4dc6-8015-594d9ac928f5&algo_expid=8877309d-ca2c-4dc6-8015-594d9ac928f5-15&btsid=0ab6d59515945206713328109ecac1&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
But personally i got mine from Ebay so that they arrived quicker
Team Panic thanks
I've started a project, £15 car and £15 MDF and a £10 saw
£45 in total
Impressive! cant wait to see it
@@TeamPanicRoboticsThanks! It'll probably be rubbish, but hey ho, at least i tried!
Exactly! at least you'll have something at the end of the process, and you'll have skills you can use to make something better in the future!
I think this is a cool idea and at some point I might like to try this. I do want to try and establish some sort of rules about how the prices of tools or shared spaces works. For instance I could get a project based membership at my local makerspace for $30 US and suddenly access a Tormach, laser cutter, drill press, bandsaw, welding equipment etc. but I'm sure that's not exactly within the spirit of the rules here.
I also have a Prusa printer which is $800US vs the $500AU that yours is and that same disparity exists between all tools like a hammer, knife, drill, etc. I think it would be nice to have an agreed upon minimal price for any standard tools to have a standard baseline for everyone. Feel free to PM me to discuss!
Hmmm interesting, makerspaces do break this idea a little bit, but I think it can be worked around my limiting the tools used at a makerspace to a basic set, every makerspace I have ever seen has had: a collection of hand tools, a drill press, a laser cutter amd some cordless tools. (not a complete list but thats the idea)
This way anyone walking into a local makerspace will find a similar set of tools to replicate the build
That disparity is exactly the point of adding the cost of the tool to the project, expensive tools are usually better and easier to use then cheap tools. And once you have used expensive tools for a little while you start to forget what is possible with cheap tools. By adding this as a rule I was attempting to get people to revert back to using the cheap shitty beginners tools, so that beginners can look at the build and copy it 1:1 without feeling like they need to drop thousands on tools first
I did this a while ago but I add a extra part to it being only using internals parts from wish I might have to try it again but try to go less then £45 (with shipping with out is £38)
I have been thinking about doing a build using only parts from wish.
Might have to add that to my list of upcoming videos
@@TeamPanicRobotics Its probably going to take months but I will say this maybe add for the challenge you have to use pla/abs from wish as well and see if you can build one only using stuff from wish including material
That sounds like a great idea.
I might order some parts soon, because I agree it will probably take a long time to get them
Can anyone provide a list or link to brands of wall climbers that use both the right kind of steering and have remotes that allow for variable speed control as opposed to just on/off buttons. I just don’t want to purchase the wrong RC for an attempt at this, thanks!
The ones I used are Gainer brand.
Heres an aliexpress link: www.aliexpress.com/item/33055658226.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6304281acrug5y&algo_pvid=8877309d-ca2c-4dc6-8015-594d9ac928f5&algo_expid=8877309d-ca2c-4dc6-8015-594d9ac928f5-15&btsid=0ab6d59515945206713328109ecac1&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
But personally i got mine from Ebay so that they arrived quicker
Awesome! Thanks!
I know a place that sells decent rc cars for $5. That gives me the wheels, motors, and controller. I would have to replace the power source because the rc car runs off normal battery. I can buy a cheap sheet of thin metal for $6 at my local hardware store. Excluding the tools which I already have I could build a bot for probably build a bot for less than $25. I might try I'm new to battlebots and I havnt built one yet
Its very very likely that a $5 RC is not suitable for building a combat robot out of.
Very very few RCs are usable as combat robots, the one I show in this video is one of the best around. And the only one I'd use without replacing the controller and drive electronics.
If you want to know more I did a whole video on why most RC cars shouldnt be used to build a combat robot: ruclips.net/video/FR5eqFYx9W0/видео.html
Would A PC be considered as cost? If you use it for arduino programming?
Thats a great question, I want to say no, because I feel like most people will have at least a laptop somewhere in the house and basically anything can run the arduino IDE
But maybe I am mistaken and it should be included
bro I need help to build bot robot please help me
This playlist has all my tutorials: ruclips.net/p/PLS8Mq0vc8p3ITl15fpOhZ-tfmtj6-BxAO
It should get you get started, if you have specific questions feel free to ask, I'll answer what I can
*quietly stops working on own video*
Noooo! keep going!
I'm interested to see what you are working on!
@@TeamPanicRobotics Don't worry dude, I'll plough on. My approach is very much based on buying a transmitter being a necessary evil and seeing how to minimise cost from there. I'm being less strict with myself in terms of tool costs as well, and I'm trying to view it as more of a 'minimum necessary investment' for entering the hobby on a sustainable entry level.