this video was very informative , didnt know that you had to grease the leader pins . Could you use alchol for an alternative cleaning solution for the mold .
One comment, Spaying mold cleaner directly on the mold surface is OK for simple tools, but slides, cores, or other moving parts should have grease on the wear plates. Mold cleaner will break down this grease. Spray the cleaner onto a rag and wipe the mold. This prevents someone from putting too much cleaner on the surfaces and diluting the grease from moving components. Also, sometimes it is good to run the ejector pins forward and wipe them. Especially if they are vented or are RJG sensor pins. This keeps them functioning correctly and removes any residue that may deposit on them. Good video to share with the technicians on the shop floor.
I'm a big fan of the videos, and you folks are doing a great job. I was wondering if maybe you could cover splay in a video? It's something I struggle with a bit, having not had to deal with it much in injection, stretch, blow molding, but I'm having to calibrate to it working in a strictly injection capacity now.
Definitely some good ideas but this only covers the basics and i know you said simple but the mold design is pretty simple. Some molds take a very long time to properly clean especially if there are multiple injection units and many different core positions to be set once clamped depending on how often you are cycling a press too it will not matter how often you try to clean the tool to prevent corosion or rusting is a definite enivitablity at that point you need to have a good tool shop to properly pm the mold internally there are just some things you cannot prevent due to mold design and your just going to have to pull the mold to be worked on
To add to its yes very basic molds can be cleaned very quickly with cleaners but some moldshave very deep cavities and intricate slides or cams that may take a great deal of effort to clean around without taking the mold apart don't know much about the mold but it looks like a thin wall type of mold can really see the A half of the mold so it's difficult to tell but looks like a beginner mold to me
The best way I've found to clean difficult molds, that have alot of gassing in the vents is to first dry wipe the mold than use and cleaner like acetone, 99 percent alcohol is the best, 70 can work but not that great, always put alot of effort into cleaning the vents always clean as close to the cores as possible If you touch them but they may need polished after if the leaders pins slides cams horns or wear plates are black dry or corroded due to cycling its best to grease the to prevent mold protects or ejector faults, depending on the mold or type of material running through it saliva can remove some gassing pretty easily if there's significant building up the vents you can clean it with acetone depending on the mold and scrap anything you can't get out with brass or even more delicate molds sometimes wood also wood works very well with polishing compound after you clean the vents really good sometimes polishing them is good to prevent future buildup in the mold there's alot of different ways to do it suppose it depends on the person but the simple mold you sprayed cleaner in alot of people would be absolutely terrified to do that
I don't agree with this video as breaking down the grease internally with such cleaners can lead to galling and other issues. WE always spray a rag and gently clean the surface per instruction from tooling department. If you need to directly spray the tool for a clean it's probably best to get a full PM in. Something else that works nicely when doing a quick clean are dry ice blasters. No residue, quick, and very clean. Overall good to see new videos.
I as well do not like the idea of spraying the mold cleaner directly into the mold. We even go as far as to use a paper towel because our tool room uses the same rags and may have metal chips in the that could scratch the surface of the mold. If you spray mold cleaner directly into the mold you may have residue bleeding out from around the inserts for hours and the mold may have to come out to be taken apart to be cleaned. Also no mention of to be extremely carful of all the sharp edges inside of a mold that may cut you.
Hi Dean, you are right. In some circumstances, it's better to not spray it directly on the mold. And yes, safety is always key. Thank you for your feedback!
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
this video was very informative , didnt know that you had to grease the leader pins . Could you use alchol for an alternative cleaning solution for the mold .
We're so glad you found it helpful! You can use alcohol. The best is to use 80% or higher. Mold cleaner is another option. 🙂
One comment, Spaying mold cleaner directly on the mold surface is OK for simple tools, but slides, cores, or other moving parts should have grease on the wear plates. Mold cleaner will break down this grease. Spray the cleaner onto a rag and wipe the mold. This prevents someone from putting too much cleaner on the surfaces and diluting the grease from moving components.
Also, sometimes it is good to run the ejector pins forward and wipe them. Especially if they are vented or are RJG sensor pins. This keeps them functioning correctly and removes any residue that may deposit on them.
Good video to share with the technicians on the shop floor.
Thank you for the input, Les!
Hello, how do you clean a texturized surface that is dirty by offgassing and forms a thin film that can't be taken out with bare hands?
Thank for information sir...
Your English voice is very well
I've always liked Mold Wipes.
I'm a big fan of the videos, and you folks are doing a great job. I was wondering if maybe you could cover splay in a video? It's something I struggle with a bit, having not had to deal with it much in injection, stretch, blow molding, but I'm having to calibrate to it working in a strictly injection capacity now.
Thank you so much for watching and for the suggestion! We will add it to our list! :)
What kind of clamps are on this mold?
Hi Josh, we bought them from PPE, Plastics Processing Equipment. 🙂
Important thing is cleaning person ready know the tool function design & what chemical to be use.
Definitely some good ideas but this only covers the basics and i know you said simple but the mold design is pretty simple. Some molds take a very long time to properly clean especially if there are multiple injection units and many different core positions to be set once clamped depending on how often you are cycling a press too it will not matter how often you try to clean the tool to prevent corosion or rusting is a definite enivitablity at that point you need to have a good tool shop to properly pm the mold internally there are just some things you cannot prevent due to mold design and your just going to have to pull the mold to be worked on
To add to its yes very basic molds can be cleaned very quickly with cleaners but some moldshave very deep cavities and intricate slides or cams that may take a great deal of effort to clean around without taking the mold apart don't know much about the mold but it looks like a thin wall type of mold can really see the A half of the mold so it's difficult to tell but looks like a beginner mold to me
The best way I've found to clean difficult molds, that have alot of gassing in the vents is to first dry wipe the mold than use and cleaner like acetone, 99 percent alcohol is the best, 70 can work but not that great, always put alot of effort into cleaning the vents always clean as close to the cores as possible If you touch them but they may need polished after if the leaders pins slides cams horns or wear plates are black dry or corroded due to cycling its best to grease the to prevent mold protects or ejector faults, depending on the mold or type of material running through it saliva can remove some gassing pretty easily if there's significant building up the vents you can clean it with acetone depending on the mold and scrap anything you can't get out with brass or even more delicate molds sometimes wood also wood works very well with polishing compound after you clean the vents really good sometimes polishing them is good to prevent future buildup in the mold there's alot of different ways to do it suppose it depends on the person but the simple mold you sprayed cleaner in alot of people would be absolutely terrified to do that
I don't agree with this video as breaking down the grease internally with such cleaners can lead to galling and other issues. WE always spray a rag and gently clean the surface per instruction from tooling department. If you need to directly spray the tool for a clean it's probably best to get a full PM in.
Something else that works nicely when doing a quick clean are dry ice blasters. No residue, quick, and very clean. Overall good to see new videos.
Great input, James. Thank you! We're so happy you enjoy our videos! :)
I as well do not like the idea of spraying the mold cleaner directly into the mold. We even go as far as to use a paper towel because our tool room uses the same rags and may have metal chips in the that could scratch the surface of the mold. If you spray mold cleaner directly into the mold you may have residue bleeding out from around the inserts for hours and the mold may have to come out to be taken apart to be cleaned. Also no mention of to be extremely carful of all the sharp edges inside of a mold that may cut you.
Hi Dean, you are right. In some circumstances, it's better to not spray it directly on the mold. And yes, safety is always key. Thank you for your feedback!
We call them cams. Never heard of a slide.
Same difference