Dude, I surfed Blacks early 80's with another guy, just the 2 of us at first. Walked down the trail about 6:45am and beheld a triple overhead day breaking exactly like that. Bottom of the trail, just to the right an undertow current pulled you out and then you paddle to the south to catch the monster, breaking over the one sand bar break in southern Cali that has Massive waves once in a great while. I was the caught one wave and went straight back out. It scared the shit out of me! Mind you I surfed Carlsbad, Huntington, Eagles, Swami's, Newport, Encinitas, The K's in Mexico, I was a seasoned 10 - 12ft face junkie. But that day, triple that!
Wow, I heard it was perfect that day, but didn’t get to see it. It’ll be a while before I get the courage to paddle out there. Need to improve first lol. Love these vids man.
It's not quite Pipeline, it's not quite Padang, and it's not quite world class...but its California class. We locals love it. It packs a punch. Occassionally gives you a really nice barrel. Never closes out. And feels heavier than it looks from shore. Good ol' Blacks. The average Joe's big wave spot. Where a medium size wave makes you feel like you just slayed Goliath...meanwhile at Nazare this "best day of the year" wouldnt even qualify as good. Seems our California, white collar surfer egos have really been put in check. We are not as courageous as we think. Or maybe deep down we always knew it's not "that's heavy." The other side of Point Conception has always been an instrument of humility for myself. I always wondered what it would be like if the Blacks Canyon were somewhere in central cal? Would we have our own Nazare on just a little bit smaller of a swell? Anyone who surfs out there knows that at 4x overhead it's a phenomenal wave. Incomparable to any size beneath it. Imagine it at 6-8x overhead. Probably even more impressive. Could we dynamite underwater off of the central coast and recreate the canyon? Would this be a better answer go our limited resources than wavepools. Who knows?
And just up at the top of the cliff , and maybe another mile away , Rusty got his start making "Music" surfboards in his dorm room , start to finish. Looks like he HAD to make boards that worked , and worked well. Seth , the husband.
I just surfed the other day forecast for 3-4 and I swear there were some 6-7 footers. These waves at Blacks look like 8-10 and that's because I am trying to scale the surfers.
He’s stoked with his nice wave with a a little head dip, nothing wrong with that.... don’t think that qualifies as kooking it. You’re the kook expert though, what do you think @surfingkook??
Got a full cover up on that there over head wave. Certainly qualifies as barreled. The real kooks arr the shoulder hoppers, throwing avalanches over on people's set waves. Saw a hand full of waves messed up by those over anxious lookyloo's.
@@Travel_Cebu222 I'm busting balls. The dude tried. Better than those who don't. And a wave that size whether you get barreled or not is worth a claim IMO!
Used to keep my board first house in.. farms road 1970s 30 was a crowd ..the missing sand isn't helping ..was a way different wave then still fun though ..definitely better with more sand
As an old bastard that hasn’t surfed well for ten years and not really surfed at all since my multiple joint replacement surgeries 5 years ago, watching this sort of footage is bitter sweet. I thought having the surgery would have given me a few more years but alas no. Some days, no most days I feel like I’m just waiting for God. Oh that’s right I don’t believe in that shit.
@@SoCalSurfer Yeah brah...pretty sectiony and not so clean, lacking on the size too...I had it way better by myself a few days before, ripped the bag out of it...just me and the ocean brah 🤙
Jason Davis Planning a surf trip to Oregon soon got any spot I should hit? Don’t worry I won’t be filming it 😂! Send me an email Nickkelleyphotography@gmail.com
@@SoCalSurfer as a photographer you would be blown away by the natural beauty of the southern Oregon coast. Just leave the ego at home and don't tell anyone.
@@SoCalSurfer footage is good, 98% of surfers completely suck, just to be clear..it's not your fault they suck. they don't know how to time the barrel, they speed up for no reason(they're scared, which is just laughable&pathetic), they slow down cause they clearly don't know what they're doing, pulling into close outs is way more better than pulling out(for 1, you look like a b!tch, and for 2, you get ragdolled like a b!tch), so many sections should of been floated or launched off of, but nope not once! just weakass bailouts. hence..embarrassing&pathetic hows windnsea? that place has consequences for being that sh!tty
@@SoCalSurfer I surfed pretty damn good for awhile, surfing is an individual action. I got sick of it, waiting for swells, cold water etc so I joined a team and play hockey now. hope you have a great weekend🍻
Man, that ill fated duck dive @13:46 🍻
Thats what happens when you duck dive up.
!!!
@@SoCalSurfer I am pretty sure that was my failed duck dive. Leash broke off on that one. lol.
We’ve all been there. Never fun.
He took a ride over Soupy Falls....
Love the footage! Really get a feel of the day/swell/waves the realness of the session is great. Thank you.
Fritter stoked! 🙌🏼
Tricky! Always found it hard to find one that didn’t clamp here
Kales Broccoli 👏
What a day! 🤯
GoldFishLive 💯🙌🏼
Wow, dude at 4:54 tried a switch stance...much respect!
dos_mas 👏
Dude, I surfed Blacks early 80's with another guy, just the 2 of us at first. Walked down the trail about 6:45am and beheld a triple overhead day breaking exactly like that. Bottom of the trail, just to the right an undertow current pulled you out and then you paddle to the south to catch the monster, breaking over the one sand bar break in southern Cali that has Massive waves once in a great while. I was the caught one wave and went straight back out. It scared the shit out of me! Mind you I surfed Carlsbad, Huntington, Eagles, Swami's, Newport, Encinitas, The K's in Mexico, I was a seasoned 10 - 12ft face junkie. But that day, triple that!
❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️Thanks for posting. Loved this!!
I'm psyched watching this!
What a great day 🤙💥
Andrey Agiy 👏
Why seems so easy from the video and when I'm out there I'm always scared?? From the water seems very gnarly. I'm a kook damn it
Data Wave 😂
Well, now you know, 6-8 foot faces are fun waves, not scary.
You'll get better bro. Practice makes perfect stretch and stay loose.
@Cmd Dowd gotta have the right board to make those drops easier for you bro
When you’re on your belly everything is overhead
An incredible number of excellent waves in one session.
One of my favorite waves in so cal. Nor cal is where I’m from 🤙
Rydze 👏
wow that looks so fun... love the overhead a frames
What’s a session!
GoldFishLive 🙌🏼
Wow, I heard it was perfect that day, but didn’t get to see it. It’ll be a while before I get the courage to paddle out there. Need to improve first lol. Love these vids man.
Louis Anthony stoked you enjoyed it!
Nope needs sand not perfect blacks but good
this looks so fun. looks crowded, but it looks like a good crowd, at least from this, not too many snakes/drop ins
wow looks like Padang, some solid riders out there.
REAL CLOSE to an award winning ride at 2:08! He gave up his ride of the year to not head-spear the duck diver in front of him.
WP SN wish he punched through it!
Always epic footage from socal🍻🤙🤙
Talin Banker stoked 🔥
Boards seemed super tuned compared to the East coast. Makes those drops look easy peasy when really not so much.
J. wellfleetion 👏
Great footage man, nice job.
Killer Kamm stoked! 🤙
Great footage👌👍🏽🤙🏽 Thanks for posting
Stoked
It's not quite Pipeline, it's not quite Padang, and it's not quite world class...but its California class. We locals love it. It packs a punch. Occassionally gives you a really nice barrel. Never closes out. And feels heavier than it looks from shore. Good ol' Blacks. The average Joe's big wave spot. Where a medium size wave makes you feel like you just slayed Goliath...meanwhile at Nazare this "best day of the year" wouldnt even qualify as good. Seems our California, white collar surfer egos have really been put in check. We are not as courageous as we think. Or maybe deep down we always knew it's not "that's heavy." The other side of Point Conception has always been an instrument of humility for myself. I always wondered what it would be like if the Blacks Canyon were somewhere in central cal? Would we have our own Nazare on just a little bit smaller of a swell? Anyone who surfs out there knows that at 4x overhead it's a phenomenal wave. Incomparable to any size beneath it. Imagine it at 6-8x overhead. Probably even more impressive. Could we dynamite underwater off of the central coast and recreate the canyon? Would this be a better answer go our limited resources than wavepools. Who knows?
TooTrue if we did that the whole cliff would collapse 😂
grew up surfin this spot...back in late 70s use to climb down a fire hose rope...or walk from LJ or torrey....
Guys ripping it up! Would have liked to have seem an occasional wide shot for perspective.
Goomer next time!
@@SoCalSurfer I'll be there.
Goin off! Florida kind of firing too.
veromikes yup!
Been waiting all winter for a swell and then the one time I have to go to AZ 🙄. Good rippin tho!!! 💪🏼💪🏼✌🏼✌🏼
Alex Teece 🤙
May turn out to be in fact the best swell of 2020
Great video SoCal
Matt Tollefson 🙌🏼
Awesome - Thanks for posting!
Stoked man
4:56 why?
Groove Duude why not!
SoCal Surfer my switch foot isn’t graceful as well. Beautiful day, keep up the good work
Can you get shacked on the right toward mushroom house much respect just curious
Yes but the left is usually more consistent.
@@SoCalSurfer Koala-T thankx Dewt!!!
it was hairy yesterday.. I got held down pretty good twice. Took one gnarly lip to the head too.
DeeSeeEss 😱
Where were the sponges that day? I wanted to see some air 360’s and ARS...
excellent footage
At 1:36 “dude, this looks like Pipe” you are not wrong!
Killer Kamm 👏
Killer Kamm lack water that’s a shore break so hard to manage
Where are my girls tho
5:50 🤙🏽cheehoo
Alika Johnson 🔥
First ones me
LEGEND!
First one is me
Fred Smith 🔥🔥😂
First one is me
David C 😂
And just up at the top of the cliff , and maybe another mile away , Rusty got his start making "Music" surfboards in his dorm room , start to finish. Looks like he HAD to make boards that worked , and worked well. Seth , the husband.
Lydia Fisher 🔥
Rusty surfboards are corporate shit
is that Ryan Birch on that double nose board?
This was filmed today? Why’s my forecast look so wrong
This was the 22nd
nice closeouts
dan schroeder closeout Cali
I just surfed the other day forecast for 3-4 and I swear there were some 6-7 footers. These waves at Blacks look like 8-10 and that's because I am trying to scale the surfers.
Rich Jackson 💣🙌🏼
how often does it break like that, put the pros there instead of trestles?
Doesn’t only breaks like this a couple days out of the year!
yeah, it's a nude beach
Once in a lifetime don’t bother
Do you mostly film north peak from the hut?? I'd love to show off my skills next swell :)
im out here literally every time you film! just never see myself cuz i mostly hang around south peak or towards the middle peak
I film all peaks! Come say hi at the hut and let me know where you’ll be next Swell!
@@SoCalSurfer sounds good!
Gorgeous.
clarkewi thanks for watching!
Any more days with these conditions coming soon?
Cathal King unfortunately not really
Not today for sure. After filming this last month did you get lost at the "beyond" section of "bed, bath, and beyond?"
lol this was filmed yesterday!
Can't wait to go here especially since im a goofy footer
Indeed!
Stoked
surfed here on acid once. is it still a nude beach?
They still have red tide there ?
Yup!
epic
Styles Dangerfield 🔥
Thank You for your time/edits. Would you consider "Hospitals" when it's 6ft. and dredging? I Love a little skin with my reef.
what time range was this?
8am-3pm
schades whatta legend
TheRealHudson yup!
0:25 True definition of a kook here. Claiming when you barely got barreled.
There’s a backstory to that 😂
I know him hes not a kook
He’s stoked with his nice wave with a a little head dip, nothing wrong with that.... don’t think that qualifies as kooking it. You’re the kook expert though, what do you think @surfingkook??
Got a full cover up on that there over head wave. Certainly qualifies as barreled. The real kooks arr the shoulder hoppers, throwing avalanches over on people's set waves. Saw a hand full of waves messed up by those over anxious lookyloo's.
@@Travel_Cebu222 I'm busting balls. The dude tried. Better than those who don't. And a wave that size whether you get barreled or not is worth a claim IMO!
Ouch this is sooooo much firing !
bonbondesel Stoked 🔥
1:29 because it's a beach break and not a reef.
dos_mas yup! 👏
Beauties! Throw in some lineup footage for an epic clip.
DJay J 🔥
To the guy that bought our house up in the Farms. You can have it. Last visit over 100 in the water. F that zoo!
Ben Thare 😂👏
Used to keep my board first house in.. farms road 1970s 30 was a crowd ..the missing sand isn't helping ..was a way different wave then still fun though ..definitely better with more sand
As an old bastard that hasn’t surfed well for ten years and not really surfed at all since my multiple joint replacement surgeries 5 years ago, watching this sort of footage is bitter sweet. I thought having the surgery would have given me a few more years but alas no. Some days, no most days I feel like I’m just waiting for God. Oh that’s right I don’t believe in that shit.
Mit Seraffej Keep on surfing! 😂
wave of tha winter , eat your heart out-lol
Blank Mc'blankerson 😂
@@SoCalSurfer size is there😬-lol
Only thing I noticed between Cali and Hawaii surfers is that Hawaii surfers actually get some shade
Well they have better waves!
Negative troll
alot of missed barrels out there
It’s been 6 foot faces more or less every day since December 2 nd and,offshore winds in all of San Diego county.Everybody getting satisfied.
Ross 👏
Tubular.
Cali
Pipe trail
TheCrazyPichuGirl 👏
First one is me
Fred Smith lol
so much shoulder hopping
Jaxon King welcome to Blacks! 😂
locals only boys
Pretty average conditions if ya ask me, had better a few days before this, without the kooks
Earnest Onslaught Average huh? 🤦🏼♂️
@@SoCalSurfer Yeah brah...pretty sectiony and not so clean, lacking on the size too...I had it way better by myself a few days before, ripped the bag out of it...just me and the ocean brah 🤙
Troll
Goofy footers everywhere.
Adam Dennis 🙌🏼
Cali pipe I. There
TheCrazyPichuGirl 👏
How's this only 5-8? 5-8 Hawaiian??? 😂😂😂😂
longliveavalon12 😂👏
So mushy.
kinda
I was out and didnt make the cut. Great footage. I'm glad I can claim it.
Cheyne Polansky 👏
It's not mushy for San Diego troll
Come to Texas. I'll show you real mushy.
..I never had a leash..but lucky for me that the eldest nude women would always have my stick waiting for me..
marty Slay 😂👏
Kooks r us
Daniel Zomerdyke 😂
Footage is good. I don't know about this whole " swell of the year thing. Its 4 to 5 ft. And guys are bailing
Daniel Zomerdyke 4ft huh 🤦🏼♂️ thanks for watching
No problem
@@danielzomerdyke563 troll
Kooks you dont claim it like that. Come surf some real waves in Oregon.
Jason Davis 😂
@@SoCalSurfer just giving those guys a hard time. Born and raised in southern California. Had to leave the crowds.
Jason Davis Planning a surf trip to Oregon soon got any spot I should hit? Don’t worry I won’t be filming it 😂! Send me an email Nickkelleyphotography@gmail.com
@@SoCalSurfer as a photographer you would be blown away by the natural beauty of the southern Oregon coast. Just leave the ego at home and don't tell anyone.
Jason Davis I’ve been up there once on a trip and haven’t found much! Very different because but I’m sure you guys have some fun point breaks!
Shit house waves
too bad its a nude beach
great waves, 98% of embarrassing surfing..quit while your not very far ahead at all, if you haven't figured it out yet, you never will.
sami moring 😂
@@SoCalSurfer
footage is good, 98% of surfers completely suck, just to be clear..it's not your fault they suck. they don't know how to time the barrel, they speed up for no reason(they're scared, which is just laughable&pathetic), they slow down cause they clearly don't know what they're doing, pulling into close outs is way more better than pulling out(for 1, you look like a b!tch, and for 2, you get ragdolled like a b!tch), so many sections should of been floated or launched off of, but nope not once! just weakass bailouts.
hence..embarrassing&pathetic
hows windnsea? that place has consequences for being that
sh!tty
sami moring come out and show them how it’s done then! I guess I need to be filming you then 😂
@@SoCalSurfer
I surfed pretty damn good for awhile, surfing is an individual action. I got sick of it, waiting for swells, cold water etc
so I joined a team and play hockey now.
hope you have a great weekend🍻
@@samimoring1235 you were so good you got sick of it ...?
4:56 why?
😂