Lead free solder IS harder to work with Eric it's a well known fact, although you would get used to using it once you'd got the iron, solder, flux types etc working together properly. 60/40 is 'leaded' solder (it contains lead) it's actually 60% tin 40% lead and is easier to work as you have found out :) 63/37 solder is also very good, it's known as eutectic, which means it has a very short space of time between it's liquid and solid states. This can be a great help as there's almost no time having to hold the wires together whilst the solder cools & solidifies. Also.. even though the wire is flux cored, it doesn't harm to still use a little liquid flux too, especially on wire that could have oil residue on it (e.g in a garage etc :) ) Great vid mate
A few tips for automotive guys: 1. For automotive use, always use heat shrink tubing with highest shrink ratio. I use 4:1 adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. It gives much thicker wall after shrinking. I found 2:1 ratio heat shrink tubing don't have thicker wall after shrinking and the joint will prone to getting punctured. 2. Don't use acid based flux. 3. Always use adhesive lined heat shrink tubing, especially in exposed areas to water proof your joint. 4. Use heat gun to evenly shrink the tubing. Lighter can be used in emergency. 5. If you are joint is bigger, want to joint wires of larger gauge, using the narrow tip of soldering iron will not give that much heat, move the joint a bit backward to the thicker side to the tip. It will heat up the joint quickly and you will be able to solder quickly. This is what I learned over a re-wiring job that I have done recently and I want to share with the community. Happy to hear for more suggestions. Thanks!
It's crazy how much judgement videos like this bring out. Explaining how to do a simple task and so much negativity comes from it (referring to the older video). I worked in a development center with hundreds of engineers, and I can tell you the amount of thought that went into soldering for development vehicles (read: not production) was quite little. Soldering is a very forgivable task and it's easy to achieve an outcome that works. Don't over think it when it isn't worth the time based on your individual scenario. There's a big difference between soldering your speaker connections at home, and producing 10,000,000 vehicles off of a production line.
+Engineering Explained I disagree. If you're bad at something, you shouldn't be in the business of teaching it. There are already good soldering tutorials on youtube by people who actually know what they're doing. Recommending plumbing flux for electronics, in automotive no less? Unforgivable. Say hello to corrosion in a few months…
Exactly! It kind of reminds me of when I dabbled in the Class A CDL area of employment. Everyone is the best! So it was hard to learn from a specific place. The best thing to do is get the general idea from a source and then perfect your own method bc soldering is one of those things that you have to get a feel for yourself. Everyone works at their own speed so temp settings and iron speed won't be the same for everybody. So with that being said...I appreciate Eric for taking his time to show the ropes! Now it's time for people to quit complaining and do their own thing with this info that Eric took his time to do. Shout out to you EE as well! I love your vids and have been subbed to your channel for a while. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
You are getting better, well done. But I have few tips for you. To clean a tip, brass solder tip cleaner is much better than sponge, it cleans all sides of tip at once and doesn't cool it so much like damp sponge, which prolongs tip's life - try it and you'll never go back to sponge. Another tip, dont push solder wire to joint too soon, it draws heat back, so it takes you longer to melt it, also that rosin core has lower melting point than solder itself, so you are burning it away while it still cannot melt the solder, so preheat for few seconds, than apply solder. By the way, the Edd China method is official method used by NASA, so it is NASA method, they do it, because you don't have to touch the wires, so they are perfectly clean and also if you'll desolder them, they are nice and straight, ready to be soldered again.
23 year avionics technician and I was trained and certified to the NASA Standard... your "Edd China" method is called a Lap Splice. There are actually other types and methods... if you have a few hours and beer read this: www.hq.nasa.gov/office/codeq/doctree/87394.pdf
Thomas Jackson Excellent link for reference. IDK how much it delves into soldering because I just looked it over. But, for cable management, shielding, termination, etc. it's absolutely WORTH a read. I've been in in the Electronics and Electrical fields/trade for 30+ years. State licensed, Degrees in Design and Engineering, w/numerous certifications (CT-S, etc.). If it's good enough for NASA, it's a safe bet it's good enough for your car, or anything else you're working on!
Rosin doesn't melt the solder. It eats away at the oxide layer of the metal you are soldering. Solder doesn't like to "stick" to oxide layers, so by adding rosin which is slightly acidic you eat away at that protective layer and the solder will then flow onto the metal faster, more easily, and more thoroughly.
Hey Eric, the 60/40 is tin and lead together. The other one you had there was lead free. Lead free solder is generally much more of a pain to work with. It melts at a higher temperature, and it's harder to get a good solder joint. Also it can crack and create cold solder joints more easily. The only benefit is that it's safer to the user when soldering.
Thanks Eric. It's great that you do this for everyone. Also that you had just a few outtakes off this video, showing the full process. Say, for that first example when you humorously said that eventually the wires would heat up enough, thank you for that. Because it is what we all go through, thinking: "what's going on? this isn't working. I must be doing something wrong". And the only reason was that we should be a bit more patient. Give it time. Thanks for being a normal guy doing normal stuff. And for teaching us. Keep it up, greetings from Argentina.
Eric I just love your humility man. It makes me feel good "having a go" as a DIYer. I've learned a lot from this video, thank you, please keep doing what you're
little tip that i have learnt from having 2 electronics hobbys (guitar and amp repair and car wiring) is that sometimes it helps to add solder by touching the wire from underneath as you did, but then touching the tip with solder, close to where the tip touches the wire, and the solder will usually help it heat up quicker, and if its hot enough, the solder will flow into the wire, and this has always been the best method for me
I'm so glad I found this video! I'm midway (I hope), into fixing a bunch of mouse-eaten and frayed wires on my truck, and I wish I had seen this video before I started soldering with the basic stuff I had. It makes me want to go back and redo the so-so joints I already made.
Again, I definitely appreciate the fact that you're contributing to RUclips. And being that your area of expertise is in car mechanics and not electrical engineering, I can surely appreciate how in your field, soldering is somewhat of a secondary task. So please don't take my previous comment as a personal insult, but father as just a bit of constructive criticism. I'm always happy to see people contributing content to RUclips, regardless of subject matter but if we all try to remain conscious of the factual content of what we post; at least when it comes to instructional videos, then we will collectively yield a significantly better resource platform for the other users. Cheers :-)
I have been soldering over 40 yrs. and yet I still learned something's from you. You know though that you shouldn't use your naked fingers to apply the flux. LOL! other than that it was great..... Oh yel, I have one of those trigger type guns and I use a rubber band on the trigger to keep the heat on between joints. There are 2 heat settings on those guns and all the way in is the lower setting which works well keep the tip warm. Keep the good ideas coming
Don't use pipe flux. It will eat up your tips and can etch copper traces. I use liquid flux made for electronics. Not as messy as the paste. Small bottle with a brush applicator. That soldering station should not have to be turned way up. Could be it is just too low power for heavy wire. Ideally you want one with a temperature setting (temperature controlled.) I prefer my old weller gun with a 2-position trigger. High to heat up then low wonce you get going. It only takes a few seconds to warm up.
Hi Eric, I liked your video. I have been research how to use a soldering iron. I use to know how but it's been so long I've forgot how. so last night I started looking for answers. I found some really good ones. I learned that you can make the solder flow more quickly at the contact point if the solder, wire, and iron tips meet at the same point. Not iron and solder on the opposite sides of the wire. You want to make sure you have, hot heat low contact time, than low heat and long time. Especially with small component because long time low heat will damage the components. Always tin the tip, tin the wire, and tin the tab or pads first and that reheat the pad and when the solder liquefy again then push the wire in to it, and remove iron tip, stay steady to cool. That way you don't have to hold the solder at the point too. just the wire and the iron! That really makes it easier! You might want to look up on RUclips "10 best soldering tips". Thanks again fore your video It's been a big help to me. Keep Up The Good Work Retired Industrial Maintenance Tech Todd P.
Tip: When you have the soldering iron under the wires, and you seem to be waiting a long time for it to heat up and flow, just touch the solder to the soldering iron BESIDE the wires, and it will flow to the wires, heat them up, and make the soldering go much easier. If you notice, in this video, the solder ball was BELOW the wires hanging off of the iron, this is what you don't want. You want the solder on the iron to actually touch the wires. Been using almost the same method as Eric for more years than I can count. Never had a failed joint
Soldering is much more involved than what was presented here. You must choose the correct type of solder and its diameter, as well as the correct amount and type of flux for the job being done. The Weller soldering station probably has many different tips available for it to do different types of soldering jobs, I know my Weller station has about 6 or 7 different tips available for it. Setting the temperature just above the melting temp of the solder is much better than just setting it on the highest temp setting. In this case it didn't really matter because it was just the soldering of a piece of wire to itself, but if you are soldering heat sensitive electrical components they might not stand up to the heat and a heat sync may be needed to lower the amount of heat that reaches the component that is being soldered. Soldering for plumbing is totally different than electrical and usually involves a propane or MAPP gas torch with a lot more heat. Since soldering in automotive cases, for me at least, usually involves connecting broken wires back together, I prefer to use My Weller dual temp soldering gun unless I have to solder something that I need to use a lower heat setting. Silver solder is more expensive and generally not needed for automotive soldering with one exception. I would use it to resolder the connectors for the rear window wire connection tabs or the soldered wires to power the heated rear window should they ever need repair if they ever come off the solder joint on the window. In that case it will require a lot of heat with a heavy duty soldering gun. Always make sure that the tip is tightened to the soldering pencil or gun. A loose tip will not get heated to the temperature needed to melt the solder. Unleaded solder and leaded solder have different melting points they both work fine and are used for different soldering jobs. The solder core comes in different types also rosin core and acid core. know which one to use for the job you are doing.
spelunkerd I used to work at the Chrysler McGraw Glass Plant. The solder they used for repair work was Sn 25 Pb 62 Bi 10 Ag 3 for soldering the clips and pigtails onto the glass. The heating lines on the backlite are silkscreen printed on the glass with a silver paste and then the glass is sent through the furnace for bending and setting the silver paste into the glass. This is how Chrysler did theirs. I would assume other auto manufacturers did theirs nearly the same.
John B. Kobberstad With the increased complexity of working with lead-free solder, wouldn't it be easier to use 60/40 solder for those tabs? I"m not sure I can find solder that matches the ratio you quote.... Or, is the issue high heat and high resistance without a small amount of silver to promote conduction and raise melting point?
You can buy silver bearing solder in many places. Radio Shack even has it. The reason for the silver is that it conducts better than lead/tin and still melts at a low enough temperature that it doesn't damage the pads on the glass.
radio shack solder is 60 percent tin and 40 percent lead.. It has a lower melting point. The other one is 100 percent lead FREE so it has a higher melting point, that's why it was harder to use. That other one is ok for plumbing because of the lack of lead. ALso, plumbing flux is very aggressive on electrical wire. You can use a electronic specific flux that won't eat up the wire as much. Also, whether using flux for plumbing or electrical work, always wipe away excess flux and clean the connection after joining the pipe/wires.
Eric N9ZN-Extra here, one of your members buddy. I wanted to weigh in one the solder and the use of flux. You have two different types of solder, one is made from Silver and the other is a combination of tin and lead hence the number over number shows the proportions of tins and lead used. Silver is great in many applications but it requires a slightly hotter temperature and it is a far better conductor of electricity than lead/tin solder. As you noted in the video flux speeds things up and you almost told us why. The reason you SHOULD USE flux is to insure a better connection of solder to the wire. Flux rapidly coats the surfaces of the wire and insures the solder adheres to all of the wire surface better than without using it. You are absolutely right flux speeds up the heating process of the wire and if you looked closely you will see when using flux the insulation near the solder joint melted a bit more than without using the flux. Flux can help you use a little less heat than you may need without it. If soldering something like a battery terminal to a wire harness you need flux so the solder will permeated all the strands of the wire inside the terminal and allow heat to transfer more rapidly. In applications like soldering a wire harness you will also want to use a heat sink to help draw excess heat away from areas where is is not needed like the area covered with wire insulation. I could go into all kinds of soldering applications but what you have shown us is generally (90%) what everyone will need in automotive work. Keep your practice up any solder joint should be SHINY AFTER IT HAS COOLED TO TOUCH. If the finished joint is DULL reheat the connection and re-solder the joint. A dull surface indicates the solder molecules are not fully bonded to each other correctly and conductivity is lost in those bad joints.
3:36 The tip did not wet with solder because you left the station at maximum temperature with a tip that was not tinned properly. Every time you return the handtool to the holder, tin your tip. This way only the surface of the solder gets oxidized and you will be able to wipe it off maintaining a fresh clean tip surface that will accept solder. Do not just clean and leave hot.
@@nickma71 Installed electric fence to discourage varmints from getting into my garden. The Western Union splice (when necessary) was recommended because of the strength imparted to the wire fence.
Very good job Eric, much better. I've seen the first video back in 2010 and it was not the best, haha. I like your twist and then solder routine, it ensures a good mechanical connection. Very good. However I have something to whine about, I'm sorry. The flux you used is not meant for this job, it's for soldering pipes. It is very corrosive and it will eat away at your tips. Also from the datasheet: "Do not use on electrical parts". You should use a rosin type flux for electrical work. Try a chisel-type tip for faster heat transfer and a thinner size rosin core leaded 60/40 solder. I fully agree with you, practise makes perfect. Keep practising!
Just subscribed to your channel bud. Been getting a crash course on auto repair thanks to being the PROUD owner of a 93 miata! Everyone tells me to get rid of it, but that's not going to happen. I cant afford to pay a mechanic so I do research and then work on it myself. So far I've done the brakes, timing belt and water pump, upgraded my differential which required new driveshaft and axles, and I'm currently working on a cranks no spark situation. Your videos have been really helpful for common sense tips. I like your style dude. Keep up the work , its appreciated.
Excellent video Eric, I always use what you called the Ed China method never failed me in over thirty plus years, I don't touch the conductors at all by twisting them, just strip the insulation back dip in the flux, then apply the solder, never fails and makes a permanent joint that lasts for years and years.
Couple of points. The numbers on the solder represent the mix of metals by percent. Old lead/tin solder is being replaced with other "lead-free" where the lead is replaced with a different less well known heavy metal. I find 60/40 easiest to use but there are a lot of different kinds for different purposes. Careful of your flux. It is meant to chemically clean the wires to allow the solder to "wet" the surface. This cleaning is often done by the flux turning into an acid when heated. The acid is corrosive to tools and wires. Residual acid could cause the wire to fail later. Last be careful of "freezing" the joint. Let it cool and solidify without moving it. Frozen solder looks frosty on the surface and can break or fail. It only takes an extra second or two of waiting. Good vid. Thanks
"Lead free" solder are of two types Antimonial 5 %/ tin 95%, and tin 95%/silver5%.The purpose of a flux is to keep the joining metals clean to enable the solder to physically mix with both surfaces and bond the two surfaces ( surface tension effects are improved with a flux) ( an intermediate alloy occurs where the solder metal penetrates the parent metal). The flux is critical in soldering as without flux the joint will not develop the bond . Heat is crucial as the metal needs to melt and flow into the joint, try soldering tinplate, brass and galvanised iron, then u would appreciate the use of soldering
+malteser There are dozens of lead free alloys, but the two common ones for electronics are SAC305 (96.5% tin, 3% silver, 0.5% copper) and the cheaper, but even harder to work with, 99.3% tin/0.7% copper.
Great video I noticed that your alligator clips are munching up the insulation. You could put some heatshrink around each jaw on the alligator clips. That should still grip things nicely and not munch things.
ERIC, a larger spade type tip will help you, the contact area is too small for quick heating, never use leadfree solder its bloody horrible. Smashing job eric, yes you have indeed redeemed yourself :-))
Always use lead free. If you're remotely competent it's close enough in performance as makes no difference, and you really really need extraction - especially with leaded. You also don't need a bigger tip, just don't use the very tip of your tip - it'll tin several mm further up than where the tip was used in this clip... Use it a little higher up and you'll get more heat transfer. Applying fresh solder to the tip once it's in contact with the wires also helps - you'll see it bridge together as the fresh solder brings a little fresh flux to the party. If you're incapable of working with lead-free solder and without supplementary flux, your problem is incompetence, not materials.
Practice makes perfect :) Its a skill and so takes time to get it right. The solder you are using is too thick [for the heat mass you have] which is one of the reason it is taking so long to melt in the two methods you showed first, look for some lead solder in the 1mm and lower size it will melt a lot quicker. Heat is the killer of electronic parts and you want to use as little of it as possible to solder [why i am so glad you got a decent weller station :) ] The use of thinner solder that has lead in it [its not always bad just don't breath in the fumes] with ther right tip on the solder iron and you will find in time you can lower the temp of the iron to just above the melting point Tinning the tip for me is putting a bit of solder on it then wiping it off on the pad. The 'Ed China' method is the one I was taught in basic electronics [for radio ham] in the UK and has you can see the solder melted a lot faster [due to the lower heat mass] Again practice makes perfect :)
Great video. As a car audio and electronics installer this video will be great for newbie installers on soldering basics. As ***** said thinner solder will help a lot for that size wire.
That ed china method is also called the "certified nasa method", which is pretty much what the name indicates. When you're applying solder to the wire it's called pre-tinning. I find it much harder to do between wires, however it works out pretty well when soldering your wire to something else, like a metal tab.
Love the video. Here are 2 tips. 1. use thinner solder 2. always use flux. If you always use flux it will ensure that you have made a good connection even though some one may not be that good at soldering yet.
Good techniques and advice! I do have one tip that would help save you a lot more time. The solder you used is best for soldering copper pipes with a torch. In other words, thick solder for a lot of heat over a large surface area. When I switched to thin solder only about the width of mechanical pencil lead it melted and wicked into the wiring strands twenty times faster. The thicker the solder is the more you have to heat up the wiring to compensate for all the heat the cooler solder is absorbing out of the hot wires when they're in contact with each other until the solder gets up to its melting point.
Eric, you should get a chisel-shaped tip for the soldering-iron (like the one you have on the butane iron). Gives you way better heat transfer than the thin conical ones. Also, the flux plumbers use are not the same as you want for soldering electronics or cables, it's totally different stuff. And one last tip, get some thinner solder, starts melting easier and it's easier to control the amount of solder you put on the joint. But overall, great video, will definately help lots of beginners making decent solder joints!
In high school I went to the Erie County technical school as well as my high school, and I was doing a project that had to do with electrical circuits and my tech teacher gave me some flux core solder and it was the best thing I have ever used in terms of soldering. So I think you should try it. Again -Flux Core Solder Another thing, the solder that you used to use was Lead Free and silver bearing so it took a lot longer to melt and fuse. The new solder that you use is 60/40 which means it's part lead part silver bearing so it melts and fuses faster. ^^ this might not be right but I believe that was the case. ^^ Thank you so much for all your time and effort into all the videos that you make. I greatly appreciate it, you've taught me a lot.
Hi everyone good video here's a few tips from me , I spend on average 4 hours a day soldering as part of my job. Using the right tip for the job is very important. The type of tip you used in the video is more suited to soldering components, for example re working the circuit board behind an instrument cluster. For soldering to wires two wire together I would use a chisel tip (mines 4mm wide) this allows for much faster heat transfer to the wires, it takes about 5 sec to flow the solder. I use liquid flux as it absorbed in to the wire better At the end of the job leave the soldering iron tinned with a generous amount of solder, this much improves the longevity of the tip as it stops it from oxidizing,
I switched from a sponge to brass this year, it's much better. If the tip gets super dirty and forgot to clean after last use, try 1200 grit sandpaper then re-tin immediately. You'll be amazed at how much better the solder flows especially when using flux.
Hey Eric..Goldie here...HUGE HUGE fan. I always try the things you recommend. Which is why I'm commenting again lol. I bought the diamond disposable gloves you use...AWESOME! Night and day difference between the other stuff I was using. Now with this video I bought the radioshack brand 60/40 solder. WOW. I was using the HarborFreight solder before since it was cheap and it was SO hard to solder. I thought I was doing something wrong cause it just wasn't going right. Now I know the problem was the product quality. I use radioshack flux and solder and man do I feel like a pro! Eric YOU ARE THE MAN. Keep up the awesome work and hope to meet you in person one day. - a huge fan Goldie
I learned to solder by watching this!! First time out and I just saved a $100 pair of Grado headphones for less than $30! With the lead-free solder included with the low=budget Weller no less! Thank you thank you thank you! As a temporary wire holder I used my (unplugged) meter probes' alligator clips stuck in a thick book.
Just a tip, when you were heating up the wire to draw in the solder, if you just touch some solder in between the iron tip and the wire it transfers the heat much quicker to the wire and then when you touch the solder back on the opposite side of the wire to the iron tip it will be much easier and quicker. Thanks for the vid! :D
Good demonstratons, Eric, with the exception that you failed to use the flux that you mentioned until near the last demonstration, and flux is critically important to a good solder joint--electrical or plumbing. As you discovered, flux will cause the solder to draw much better and cover much better. If you ever attempt to solder a copper plumbing joint without using flux, you'll very likely end up with a leak. Even if you don't, you'll have a much weaker joint. Thanks for you demonstrations. Keep up the good work!
You're right about the plumbing solder joints needing a separate flux, but in Eric's case he was using rosin flux core solder. Has flux built in. Any extra is just gravy and might help a little with the speed, but is not completely necessary for a strong joint.
Medicman Thanks for your comments, Medicman. I should have paid more attention to the lables or the spools of solder he displayed. Still, adding a little flux woudn't have hurt any and may have helped a litle. Don't want any cold solder joints. ;)
practice practice practice. I was pretty terrible at soldering until this latest gm recall where you cut out the airbag connectors in the front seats and then solder the wires together. after all that practice i've gotten pretty good.
As many have mentioned already, you wait with the solder until the wire has been heated. Look at the solder you have on your tip, as long as that is solid the wire isn't hot enough to apply more solder. It would also help to have a larger surface area on your tip (like a spade tip) in contact with the wire. Running your iron on high temperature is good when you have had more practice as things go quicker and the quicker you are the better the join will be (less chance for mess) but if you don't have the correct technique and you run a high temperature iron you will burn the insulation on the wire, damaging it and making the area around the joint brittle. You have that crimp tube there to protect the _damaged_ area but a perfect joint affects an as small area as possible. You should have introduced the flux earlier in the video btw, you have to use flux for these _large_ soldering jobs where you have lots of heat transfer. A bigger tip would have had similar effect as the flux. And finally, your solder wire is too thick for the application, it needlessly requires more heat to melt and you only needed a small portion of it. For me, a rule of thumb is that the solder wire you need to use should be as long as the area you want to solder. I.E, if you were to cut the solder wire into a piece as long as the exposed area, that's the length of wire you need. If that length seems to be _too much_ solder then your wire is too thick.
That Weller station is awesome! But I think you'll get better results with a chisel tip instead of the conical tip (Weller sells many different styles of tips to go with those). Conical tips dont provide very good heat transfer. Also I find that the brass mesh tip cleaners work much better than a damp sponge.
For starters, +EricTheCarGuy didn't do a bad job in my opinion, and I solder a lot, considering I'm an avionics tech lol. I think the best tip I got when learning is that when you are soldering, once the solder melts and enough of it is on the joint, pull it away as fast as possible. If the solder is matte, it's a cold solder and will not hold under load; it'll just pop off. It has to be shiny. It's vital to have a solder vacuum pump if you're soldering pretty much anything other than wire joints, for those times when you do a cold solder, which everyone does.
Love the video! I'm just starting out with soldering (though I really don't have too much use for it) so this was very helpful! Was looking at some other soldering tutorials and when I saw you had a video about it I knew I had to check it out. I own an older Honda so your videos are what keeps bringing me back whenever I need help. And if EricTheCarGuy has a video about it, it's guaranteed to be good!
Keep your tip shiny don't just put blobs of solder on it and say its good! That temperature is way to high or you just have a strange iron. The NASA style of soldering is what I use which is tin ends of wires and then solder ends together, that way it is cleaner and very very strong. For large wires it can be easier to use a butane torch. Always use a Transformer type soldering station not a cheap iron, I've had so many break its not worth it. Some people will say don't use a wet sponge to clean the tip as the sudden cooling of the tip can cause excessive wear, instead use metal filings or metal scoring pad. Oxidation is a major cause of weak joints, I found to clean oxidized wires, degreaser worked well, some degreasers may not. Do not move your solder joints when the solder is cooling, this will cause a cold joint and is dangerously weak, you can tell if you have a cold joint by looking at the color, if its dull, you have a bad joint, instead it should be nice and shiny. But most important of all is, STAY DIRTY!
Eric: I really enjoy your videos and have learned a lot. Let me mention a little about your choice of solders. The 60/40 solder contains lead and is very good for electronic and soldering wires. It contains a flux which is non corrosive. The soldering paste contains acid and is corrosive, and at some point can cause a high resistance connection. You really should clean the wires with fine sandpaper so it is shiny. The lead free solder that you showed is crap and is designed for plumbing, and requires a very high heat to flow properly. I personally use a pair of electricians snips for stripping, and if I don't have them use a sharp knife. I have been doing this for over 40 years, and being able to do this just requires practice. By the way, the Radio Shack solder, and the one marked Archer are exactly the same.
Great job, The iron tip could be shinier and tinned more, adding more solder to tip while heating wire will transfer the heat a LOT faster, which is why Edd China's method is good(more solder to transfer heat on each end). Also, that solder is too thick, always use the thinnest solder you can find, it melts faster and all you have to do is just feed faster. Dipping your iron tip in a copper scrubber is the best way to keep your tip shiny and super efficient! Love the vids Eric!!
Haha I was getting so aggravated when you weren't using the flux, until you finally did. I honestly swear by the stuff... Nice video! Love the new angles, adds lots of perspective.
Nice! you got a Weller station, Not a single penny wasted on that! The best way i like it is to heat up the wire a little for a few seconds then slide the wire between where the tip and the copper wire meets. The melted solder spreads the heat even faster on the hot wire so it doesn't take ages.. Thats why the flux or whatever its called over there spreads it much faster. ;) But yea, the flux is still the best solution for the super fast connection. ;)
oh boy. this vid has convinced me to finally do a basic soldering tutorial. ETCG is great but soldering is like spray painting- it looks easy but is fairly involved.
Good Job Eric! You improved alot... Just adding to your "Ed China" method. The reason for this method is that if you solder wires in any other way and then need to undo the joint, it will be very difficult and time taking to do. With this method it is very quick to join and undo joints very quickly. That is also the reason why this method is preferred by NASA.
Seems to take forever for the wire to get hot. What I do when soldering wires together is to increase the surface area between the soldering tip and the wire by adding a bit of solder right above the point where the iron meets the wire, this allows the heat to be transferred much quicker. Once this is done the solder can applied to the wire directly.
Soldering is an art. You're right, it takes practice, lots of it. In the world of electronics, it depends on the application if you use a gun over an iron. If you're soldering a ground lug to a large piece of stranded wire, you're going to need something that will provide a lot of heat and sustain the heat while soldering. Thus, the soldering gun. If you're making a connection of two #18 stranded wires, like in the video's, a chisel tip iron like you have provides enough heat to sweat the joint through. Guns are a very useful tool. You have to know when you need it. Just like using a 1/2" air-gun over a 1/4" ratchet. It depends on the application at hand. Very good video, informative. I just had to give the Soldering gun a pat on the back. They are a valuable tool to have and should not be dismissed.
Thanks for the great video! I tried soldering today at work but failed miserably. With the instructions from the video and everyone's comments, I think I'll be more prepared next time!
Eric you were saying one solder was better that another, I have heard that lead free solder is sometimes harder to work with. I like the mini helping hands you made nice touch. Great video. Thanks for the tips and instruction
As an avionics tech by trade (23 years and counting) this is the ONLY way I am allowed to solder wires together. I know we are held to a higher standard, but there are some simple tips to 1. Clean with alcohol what your are about to solder. 2. Use Flux (for electronics - not the plumbers stuff) EVERY TIME. 3. Tin your wire before soldering. 4. Remove all traces of flux. It's not corrosive but will attract stuff that is...
Thomas Jackson You have J-STD too? Not sure of any other certs but the "Ed China"/"Nasa" method was the way I was told to do stuff. Saying that, we also soldered after crimping 38999 pins which i've later found isn't the norm.
jonno85uk Certified back in the mid 90's. When I worked at Warner-Robins AFB it was a yearly class/certification. And man do I NOT miss soldering pins... haven't had to do that for about ten years now.
2:57 I like the little helping hands alligator clips idea, I have the commercial one with the ball and socket positionable arms for the alligator clips, but the simple wire loop one is nice and easy. I'll have to make up a few with the scrap solid wire. 👍
Thats what i can never get over....is the time it takes to get the wire hot enough. I had tried this exact method with a wire i was trying to splice into a harness. and the wire was so thick i must have waited ten minutes heating the wire because the iron wasnt getting hot enough. The heat of the gun plays an important role. I always crimp where i can and solder where i cant crimp. Thanks for sharing
The lead free solder takes a ton of heat to melt. The radio shack solder (in the video) is leaded and sticks better. Clean wires and adding some flux will help the solder stick better. I love my chisel style tips on my Weller.
This was very helpful, it wasn't shown in this much detail in trade school. Tin the tip and a lil flux goes a long way. I'll need new tips cause I now know mine are burnt out but now I know how to make em last. Thanx again
I enjoyed the video even though I have been soldering for years. The Air Force taught me about doing such tasks since we had to do repairs on the aircraft, and equipment we worked with, but I didn't know about people using the foam to clean the gun. I always used the paper towels to clean my gun instead. I saw others do it, so that was what I did also, even though we didn't get to use the solder gun that much on the job. Thanks for sharing this information, and I hope you enjoyed the July 4th holiday.
60/40 rosin core solder is the ideal choice. But also you’re doing small wires. Basically if you’re smaller than 10 gauge you’re only hurting your progress using the .062 diameter solder. The .032 will get faster wicking with good penetration but won’t travel up the inside of the wire. Using the .062 you need more heat to get it to flow and as an effect it’ll tend to flow up under the insulation of the wire more than you want it too.
Thank you, this was very helpful! I struggled all day yesterday trying to wire up flounder gigging lights on my boat. I think I will try that 60/40 and the flux to go back and redo what I screwed up
one tip bro, since it should not take that long to solder a single joint: rub the tip of the iron back and forth under the connection to heat it up quicker. and u can also gently touch the solder to the tip when ur heating up the connection and pull away and it seems to melt the solder into the connection right away... atleast thats how I do it and it works great. i also use the lead free since it IS for electrical connections. i know some of the "pros" even say to use 60/40, but I don't like working with lead.
poor ed doesn't ever get paid though.. he does all the work and then when they add up the costs, i never see ed's labor in there.. factor in the labor, almost every one of those deals are losers..i still watch though.. did anyone else throw up in the mouth a little when they painted over the SS badges on that 68 camaro? talk about totally casting doubt on that paint and body work.. if i walked up to it i would think backyard re-spray or macco/earl schibe.. both those guys should have their peepee's whacked with a ruler for that one..
Thank you for another awesome auto tech video! I was originally into Computer Information Systems/Tech so this particular video is right up my alley. I would like to advise you against using acid based flux with Electronics (PCBs, components, etc) and Wiring because the acid will actually cause the wiring to corrode over time. However, using Rosin Paste/Flux is my preferred method of soldering any application. Another thing which helps is you could coat the wires in dielectric grease before applying the heat shrink tubing. Keep the videos rolling! Thank you again!
a little late to the show but... Most of these things have been touched on before, Rosin flux for electrical, 1/4" tip for your iron, we used forceps but I liked the idea of putting heat shrink on the alligator clip jaws/work holding jig. Tips are sacrificial so have a few extra, use a flat file when they start deforming, tin the tip leaving a little blob on it. reduce the heat control to around 7, bring up slowly till the solder melts, then increase to the next half setting, adjust up as needed, the idea is not to overheat the solder or the finished product.Take a piece of tissue, dab with alcohol and wipe the oxidation off the solder. Ed Shiners method was what we were taught, and two seconds you were done or you removed heat, give it a second, and try again. Clean the joint with alcohol when finished. Your finished joint should be shiny, if it's dull or flat, then the solder has been overheated. Get a small fan to blow the smoke somewhere, lead fumes, not so good for you. I'm sure I've missed some stuff. GL, your mileage may vary, Loved the Fairmont build in particular.
Weller is not the only company that produces these soldering stations, but they sure are the best. I grew up with these, since it's a German company, although they have been acquired in the 70s by some international corporation (which is I think US based).
For wire soldering work where moisture can be an issue like under the hood in the engine bay, I always use the heat shrink tubing that has a coating on the inside that melts to the wire as the tubing shrinks and thus is water/chemical proof.
Tip: Its also recommended to put a very small amount of a dielectric grease (silicone) on the joint after having completed the soldering and before putting the shrinktube on. This helps to prevent corrosion and helps but does not (for ever) prevent moisture getting to the soldiered joint
have you considered being an instructor in the automotive tech school. I think you have the charm,knowledge and experience to be a great teacher and especially how you make your instructions very detailed that even a no-know-how guy can learn.
Eric, you demonstrating in large garage workshop. Ambient temperature for the job is going to be difficult to have heat transfer (cold solder / bad solder). Ambient temperature in a bedroom / home office with out a/c is better for soldering. This is where gun solder works best ..avoid fan or cold table top. You can get mini vice for five bucks looks like a toy but works awesome because it has suction cup and can place any where. Pre solder two ends of wire where they junction before twist them together will reduce flexing break apart. I use twice the thickness solder than what you got with gun on trigger its best because it keeps solder tip cool only needed upon soldering time ..strong enough to weld battery cable two ends for good long time and I have mine yet broken Estimated solder heat should take only few sec before applying solder wire (18guage) its an instant melt if you try this in stable room temperature rather than open garage workshop.. Flux is important always :) A lot people install wires with out soldering.. Gets into issues like driving stalls ..lost of power... Static...random engine malfunctioning..after market lighting flickers ... So another words ...solder people!
Hi Eric - on the ed china method as you call it twist the ends of the wires together first and then tin them, put them together then flash the flame of your butane torch over them and they will melt together perfectly. Give it a go! all the best.
Hi Eric, I use the same blue and yellow wire stripper as you, the silver knob at the back of it, is actually a tensioner for a variety of different sized wire, so you don’t cut through no wires, only the insulation, not sure if you knew this tip, but mate great videos your doing, keep up the great work 🤙🏼🇦🇺
Some tinn rolls are pre fluxed (flux in the tinn wire), thats why it works better. And the dripping method wich you shouldnt use (as you said) is actually called for cold sodering. But I use flux my self. Works really good. Also you did good! :) Gotta love a perfect soder.
No it's called bridging. Cold soldering is just that - not enough heat used to get good flow of solder. It causes very poor joints referred funny enough as "Cold Solder Joints" and they cause the worse type of problems... temperature induced intermittent failures.
KLEIN Katapult Wire Stripper and Cutter: !!!... Replaced ALL my outlets/switches to white.. started with the twist type stripper.. after 2nd 0utlet, said screw this... broke down, went to Home Depot and spent the $$ for the Katapult.... OMG... SO WORTH IT !!! Planned on selling it after that project, but kept it.. and GLAD I DID !! .. Comes in Handy.. It's Da Bomb !!!
Eric. A larger chisel style tip would let you take control with these larger wires. The tip you've got on in this video is for smaller wires, or soldering small resistors to a board and ect. Where it does not require a lot of heat.
Hey, Eric, the reason Lead Free is more difficult to deal with from 60/40 is because of contents, or should I say ingredients of the solder. Lead-free requires a higher temperature yield over 60/40. Why? Because They contain alloys in most instances Tin, Silver, and Copper and they require a higher temperature before they reach their melting points with the help of flux which is an agent that prevents oxidation and promotes bonding in the direction of heat which is why most professionals say that when you solder you lay the iron on the wire and let the heat do the work. This is where Lead comes in. Lead has a much lower temperature yield from the other alloys, like so soft you could rub it off on your hands if its pure. So to help the solder melt faster in todays hobbyist standards they use it in some electronics, never in plumbing because as anyone would know, lead is poison, and if you use it in components that work with heat the solder could melt and undo the connections, so it easier to deal with in some cases but at a price. Lead free is good when you are working in a higher temperature component environment it melts at around 310-350 sometimes more depending on the manufacturer, 60/40 is at around 60-100 degrees cooler and it varies. And yes I know the temperature can be different fellas, I know, but speaking from just purchasing from a radio shack as a scenario. this gets pretty close to about there
Eric, Thank you for taking the time to create these vids. I am the experienced DIY'r in a sense . I generally tackle all of my jobs as I have built muscle cars/bikes etc. So I have engineering exp in customizing and general maintenance in the auto, home, and hobby lifestyle. That said, I never really learned how to properly solder. Yes sorry bit embarrassing i know. I tried to start by soldering each end of the wire to make it solid in a sense vs having all of the wires twisted separately, no real reason other than I used to see home audio connection points done this way. I I tried and failed when trying to get both ends to make the final soldered connection. My issue is not having enough hands to hold the ends in perfect position and a hand to feed the solder and lastly a hand to heat the wire. That said, after seeing the tool you made it look like this will solve that issue very quickly and easliy. My last concern is the heating of the wire. I was trying to drip solder and failed every-time. But I am scared to heat the wire directly as it looks like its making the cladding change color and even start to deform as its starting to melt. Is this ok.....?
Very good video , one thing that you are not supposed to do is use a lighter on the heat shrink tube . You can do two things , use a heat gun or the heat shrink shield adapter that comes with most solder irons . Also One other thing you can use to strip the wire is the hot blade adapter that also come with most solder iron kits .
Thanks Eric your a lifesaver. To be honest i really didn't know a damn thing about soldering after this video i can really say it is alot easier then before. Your right a little bit of flux does go along way and 60/40 solder is my preferred choice. Thanks Paulie
One thing i noticed. If it is taking forever for the solder to melt add a little to the tip while it is still making contact with the cable and it will heat up faster. Also you can add a little to the tip to get the 'melt" started and then move it up so it draws in the solder.
I have a wire stripper like that Klein here- a tip with those. Put the wire in the appropriate section, then rotate around the wire, then pull off the insulation. Still not as convenient as those one step tools like used here, but it makes a huge difference.
How I was taught to solder is to tin a clean tip and immediately touch the wire so the flux in the solder doesn't burn off. Next, lightly touch the area between the wire and tip with the solder to start it flowing then move the solder to the opposite side to continue the flow.
The reason why you're finding the "60/40" to be easier to work with is the other type you've used in the past... 50/50, which is a Tin/Lead ratio, the 60/40 has a lower melting point than that of the 50/50, for best results with lead solder is a 63/37 ratio, this almost eliminates the "plastic" which is in the point between solid state and liquid state. You'll find it melts very quickly, similar to that when using the flux paste. Lead free solder is another option (Tin-Silver-Copper - most common) but a pre fluxed (rosin) lead free solder. As of yet, there are no US laws (outside CA) mandating the removal of lead, so this is of no importance. Keep up the great vids :)
The solder issue: what you saw is the difference between leaded and lead-free solder. Leaded works well but it's leaded (wash your hands after soldering). Lead free is "safer" but has a higher melting temperature (and other issues too). Hence, I personally only use leadfree if and when needed (rare).
The Radioshack 60/40 is the Pb/Sn content which is Lead and Tin. If you search and understand a little bit of materials and their phases, you will find that the lowest temperature to melt this 2 elements is given around 63/37 mix, which helps to solder with a lower temperature. The Lead free soldering wire, is another single or combined elements that have a different melting point and characteristics, plus lead adheres to ferrous materials, which this one lacks.. That is why you had trouble melting and preparing the tip of the gun.
I use the the same method of using alligator clips as a mini vice , but a little trick you might like is that I apply shrink tubing over the clip "fingers" that way they don't dig into the wire as badly.
The "Ed China" method as you call it (although I don't know the guy) is how I learned soldering from my father as well. When soldering wires together with this method, it is critical that the two wires are held exactly parallel to each other!
By the way, when soldering wire, you tin the tip, then wipe away the excess solder on the tip. Once that blob of melted solder on the tip stays there a while it doesn't want to transfer to the metal because the tip is hotter. Tinning is like seasoning a frying pan, you don't want to keep the oil in the pan . WHen you touch the tip to the wire, it is best to, contrary to what some think, touch the solder to the iron in order to get a slight flow of solder. This slight flow will act like a heat transfer paste and transfer the heat of the iron to the wire. Once that happens, you can touch the solder to the wire. Just think of computer processors, they need a paste to efficiently transfer heat from the p rocessor to the metal heat sink and sometimes you need melted solder to transfer heat from the iron to the wire. You can also use paste flux in conjunction with pre fluxed wire.
Lead free solder IS harder to work with Eric it's a well known fact, although you would get used to using it once you'd got the iron, solder, flux types etc working together properly.
60/40 is 'leaded' solder (it contains lead) it's actually 60% tin 40% lead and is easier to work as you have found out :)
63/37 solder is also very good, it's known as eutectic, which means it has a very short space of time between it's liquid and solid states. This can be a great help as there's almost no time having to hold the wires together whilst the solder cools & solidifies.
Also.. even though the wire is flux cored, it doesn't harm to still use a little liquid flux too, especially on wire that could have oil residue on it (e.g in a garage etc :) )
Great vid mate
I love the non-intentional noise of the clock ticking when you were doing the solder lol
And an extra long joint at that perfect timing
15:09 lol patience is key I am learning.
A few tips for automotive guys:
1. For automotive use, always use heat shrink tubing with highest shrink ratio. I use 4:1 adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. It gives much thicker wall after shrinking. I found 2:1 ratio heat shrink tubing don't have thicker wall after shrinking and the joint will prone to getting punctured.
2. Don't use acid based flux.
3. Always use adhesive lined heat shrink tubing, especially in exposed areas to water proof your joint.
4. Use heat gun to evenly shrink the tubing. Lighter can be used in emergency.
5. If you are joint is bigger, want to joint wires of larger gauge, using the narrow tip of soldering iron will not give that much heat, move the joint a bit backward to the thicker side to the tip. It will heat up the joint quickly and you will be able to solder quickly.
This is what I learned over a re-wiring job that I have done recently and I want to share with the community. Happy to hear for more suggestions.
Thanks!
You need to use 3M silicone dielectric grease on top of the soldered joint before shrink tube!
It's crazy how much judgement videos like this bring out. Explaining how to do a simple task and so much negativity comes from it (referring to the older video). I worked in a development center with hundreds of engineers, and I can tell you the amount of thought that went into soldering for development vehicles (read: not production) was quite little. Soldering is a very forgivable task and it's easy to achieve an outcome that works. Don't over think it when it isn't worth the time based on your individual scenario. There's a big difference between soldering your speaker connections at home, and producing 10,000,000 vehicles off of a production line.
Well put!!!
+Engineering Explained I disagree. If you're bad at something, you shouldn't be in the business of teaching it. There are already good soldering tutorials on youtube by people who actually know what they're doing. Recommending plumbing flux for electronics, in automotive no less? Unforgivable. Say hello to corrosion in a few months…
Exactly! It kind of reminds me of when I dabbled in the Class A CDL area of employment. Everyone is the best! So it was hard to learn from a specific place. The best thing to do is get the general idea from a source and then perfect your
own method bc soldering is one of those things that you have to get a feel for yourself. Everyone works at their own speed so temp settings and iron speed won't be the same for everybody. So with that being said...I appreciate Eric for taking his time to show the ropes! Now it's time for people to quit complaining and do their own thing with this info that Eric took his time to do. Shout out to you EE as well! I love your vids and have been subbed to your channel for a while. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
You are getting better, well done. But I have few tips for you. To clean a tip, brass solder tip cleaner is much better than sponge, it cleans all sides of tip at once and doesn't cool it so much like damp sponge, which prolongs tip's life - try it and you'll never go back to sponge. Another tip, dont push solder wire to joint too soon, it draws heat back, so it takes you longer to melt it, also that rosin core has lower melting point than solder itself, so you are burning it away while it still cannot melt the solder, so preheat for few seconds, than apply solder. By the way, the Edd China method is official method used by NASA, so it is NASA method, they do it, because you don't have to touch the wires, so they are perfectly clean and also if you'll desolder them, they are nice and straight, ready to be soldered again.
Awesome. Thanks for your input!
23 year avionics technician and I was trained and certified to the NASA Standard... your "Edd China" method is called a Lap Splice. There are actually other types and methods... if you have a few hours and beer read this:
www.hq.nasa.gov/office/codeq/doctree/87394.pdf
Thomas Jackson Excellent link for reference. IDK how much it delves into soldering because I just looked it over. But, for cable management, shielding, termination, etc. it's absolutely WORTH a read. I've been in in the Electronics and Electrical fields/trade for 30+ years. State licensed, Degrees in Design and Engineering, w/numerous certifications (CT-S, etc.). If it's good enough for NASA, it's a safe bet it's good enough for your car, or anything else you're working on!
Rosin doesn't melt the solder. It eats away at the oxide layer of the metal you are soldering. Solder doesn't like to "stick" to oxide layers, so by adding rosin which is slightly acidic you eat away at that protective layer and the solder will then flow onto the metal faster, more easily, and more thoroughly.
Hey Eric, the 60/40 is tin and lead together. The other one you had there was lead free. Lead free solder is generally much more of a pain to work with. It melts at a higher temperature, and it's harder to get a good solder joint. Also it can crack and create cold solder joints more easily. The only benefit is that it's safer to the user when soldering.
Thanks Eric. It's great that you do this for everyone. Also that you had just a few outtakes off this video, showing the full process. Say, for that first example when you humorously said that eventually the wires would heat up enough, thank you for that. Because it is what we all go through, thinking: "what's going on? this isn't working. I must be doing something wrong". And the only reason was that we should be a bit more patient. Give it time. Thanks for being a normal guy doing normal stuff. And for teaching us. Keep it up, greetings from Argentina.
Eric I just love your humility man. It makes me feel good "having a go" as a DIYer. I've learned a lot from this video, thank you, please keep doing what you're
little tip that i have learnt from having 2 electronics hobbys (guitar and amp repair and car wiring) is that sometimes it helps to add solder by touching the wire from underneath as you did, but then touching the tip with solder, close to where the tip touches the wire, and the solder will usually help it heat up quicker, and if its hot enough, the solder will flow into the wire, and this has always been the best method for me
U showing how long it takes for the wire to heat up is keeping it real. I appreciate you so much
I'm so glad I found this video! I'm midway (I hope), into fixing a bunch of mouse-eaten and frayed wires on my truck, and I wish I had seen this video before I started soldering with the basic stuff I had. It makes me want to go back and redo the so-so joints I already made.
Again, I definitely appreciate the fact that you're contributing to RUclips. And being that your area of expertise is in car mechanics and not electrical engineering, I can surely appreciate how in your field, soldering is somewhat of a secondary task. So please don't take my previous comment as a personal insult, but father as just a bit of constructive criticism.
I'm always happy to see people contributing content to RUclips, regardless of subject matter but if we all try to remain conscious of the factual content of what we post; at least when it comes to instructional videos, then we will collectively yield a significantly better resource platform for the other users.
Cheers :-)
I have been soldering over 40 yrs. and yet I still learned something's from you. You know though that you shouldn't use your naked fingers to apply the flux. LOL! other than that it was great..... Oh yel, I have one of those trigger type guns and I use a rubber band on the trigger to keep the heat on between joints. There are 2 heat settings on those guns and all the way in is the lower setting which works well keep the tip warm. Keep the good ideas coming
Don't use pipe flux. It will eat up your tips and can etch copper traces.
I use liquid flux made for electronics. Not as messy as the paste. Small bottle with a brush applicator.
That soldering station should not have to be turned way up. Could be it is just too low power for heavy wire. Ideally you want one with a temperature setting (temperature controlled.)
I prefer my old weller gun with a 2-position trigger. High to heat up then low wonce you get going. It only takes a few seconds to warm up.
Thats right. Use a tin solder with flux in it...and don't spend too much time after the tip is pre-tinned...it will burn off all the flux
@@mondeo984 Exactly!
Scott H acid core flux solder for pipes and rosin core for electric wires
Hi Eric, I liked your video. I have been research how to use a soldering iron. I use to know how but it's been so long I've forgot how. so last night I started looking for answers. I found some really good ones. I learned that you can make the solder flow more quickly at the contact point if the solder, wire, and iron tips meet at the same point. Not iron and solder on the opposite sides of the wire. You want to make sure you have, hot heat low contact time, than low heat and long time. Especially with small component because long time low heat will damage the components. Always tin the tip, tin the wire, and tin the tab or pads first and that reheat the pad and when the solder liquefy again then push the wire in to it, and remove iron tip, stay steady to cool. That way you don't have to hold the solder at the point too. just the wire and the iron!
That really makes it easier!
You might want to look up on RUclips "10 best soldering tips".
Thanks again fore your video It's been a big help to me. Keep Up The Good Work
Retired Industrial Maintenance Tech
Todd P.
Tip: When you have the soldering iron under the wires, and you seem to be waiting a long time for it to heat up and flow, just touch the solder to the soldering iron BESIDE the wires, and it will flow to the wires, heat them up, and make the soldering go much easier. If you notice, in this video, the solder ball was BELOW the wires hanging off of the iron, this is what you don't want. You want the solder on the iron to actually touch the wires. Been using almost the same method as Eric for more years than I can count. Never had a failed joint
Soldering is much more involved than what was presented here. You must choose the correct type of solder and its diameter, as well as the correct amount and type of flux for the job being done. The Weller soldering station probably has many different tips available for it to do different types of soldering jobs, I know my Weller station has about 6 or 7 different tips available for it. Setting the temperature just above the melting temp of the solder is much better than just setting it on the highest temp setting. In this case it didn't really matter because it was just the soldering of a piece of wire to itself, but if you are soldering heat sensitive electrical components they might not stand up to the heat and a heat sync may be needed to lower the amount of heat that reaches the component that is being soldered. Soldering for plumbing is totally different than electrical and usually involves a propane or MAPP gas torch with a lot more heat. Since soldering in automotive cases, for me at least, usually involves connecting broken wires back together, I prefer to use My Weller dual temp soldering gun unless I have to solder something that I need to use a lower heat setting. Silver solder is more expensive and generally not needed for automotive soldering with one exception. I would use it to resolder the connectors for the rear window wire connection tabs or the soldered wires to power the heated rear window should they ever need repair if they ever come off the solder joint on the window. In that case it will require a lot of heat with a heavy duty soldering gun.
Always make sure that the tip is tightened to the soldering pencil or gun. A loose tip will not get heated to the temperature needed to melt the solder. Unleaded solder and leaded solder have different melting points they both work fine and are used for different soldering jobs. The solder core comes in different types also rosin core and acid core. know which one to use for the job you are doing.
Thank you for your input John!
Why do you use silver solder for rear window wire connection tabs? Are there any other tips for doing this successfully?
spelunkerd I used to work at the Chrysler McGraw Glass Plant. The solder they used for repair work was Sn 25 Pb 62 Bi 10 Ag 3 for soldering the clips and pigtails onto the glass. The heating lines on the backlite are silkscreen printed on the glass with a silver paste and then the glass is sent through the furnace for bending and setting the silver paste into the glass. This is how Chrysler did theirs. I would assume other auto manufacturers did theirs nearly the same.
John B. Kobberstad With the increased complexity of working with lead-free solder, wouldn't it be easier to use 60/40 solder for those tabs? I"m not sure I can find solder that matches the ratio you quote.... Or, is the issue high heat and high resistance without a small amount of silver to promote conduction and raise melting point?
You can buy silver bearing solder in many places. Radio Shack even has it. The reason for the silver is that it conducts better than lead/tin and still melts at a low enough temperature that it doesn't damage the pads on the glass.
radio shack solder is 60 percent tin and 40 percent lead.. It has a lower melting point. The other one is 100 percent lead FREE so it has a higher melting point, that's why it was harder to use. That other one is ok for plumbing because of the lack of lead.
ALso, plumbing flux is very aggressive on electrical wire. You can use a electronic specific flux that won't eat up the wire as much. Also, whether using flux for plumbing or electrical work, always wipe away excess flux and clean the connection after joining the pipe/wires.
Eric N9ZN-Extra here, one of your members buddy. I wanted to weigh in one the solder and the use of flux. You have two different types of solder, one is made from Silver and the other is a combination of tin and lead hence the number over number shows the proportions of tins and lead used. Silver is great in many applications but it requires a slightly hotter temperature and it is a far better conductor of electricity than lead/tin solder. As you noted in the video flux speeds things up and you almost told us why. The reason you SHOULD USE flux is to insure a better connection of solder to the wire. Flux rapidly coats the surfaces of the wire and insures the solder adheres to all of the wire surface better than without using it. You are absolutely right flux speeds up the heating process of the wire and if you looked closely you will see when using flux the insulation near the solder joint melted a bit more than without using the flux. Flux can help you use a little less heat than you may need without it. If soldering something like a battery terminal to a wire harness you need flux so the solder will permeated all the strands of the wire inside the terminal and allow heat to transfer more rapidly. In applications like soldering a wire harness you will also want to use a heat sink to help draw excess heat away from areas where is is not needed like the area covered with wire insulation. I could go into all kinds of soldering applications but what you have shown us is generally (90%) what everyone will need in automotive work. Keep your practice up any solder joint should be SHINY AFTER IT HAS COOLED TO TOUCH. If the finished joint is DULL reheat the connection and re-solder the joint. A dull surface indicates the solder molecules are not fully bonded to each other correctly and conductivity is lost in those bad joints.
3:36 The tip did not wet with solder because you left the station at maximum temperature with a tip that was not tinned properly. Every time you return the handtool to the holder, tin your tip. This way only the surface of the solder gets oxidized and you will be able to wipe it off maintaining a fresh clean tip surface that will accept solder. Do not just clean and leave hot.
The " X " twist is called the " Western - Union " splice It was developed by Western Union to run telegraph lines back in the 1800's
And it is not endorsed as a method since....many decades.
Not in a moving vehicle.
@@nickma71 Installed electric fence to discourage varmints from getting into my garden. The Western Union splice (when necessary) was recommended because of the strength imparted to the wire fence.
@@jw8406 Is it working for the varmints?
Very good job Eric, much better. I've seen the first video back in 2010 and it was not the best, haha. I like your twist and then solder routine, it ensures a good mechanical connection. Very good. However I have something to whine about, I'm sorry. The flux you used is not meant for this job, it's for soldering pipes. It is very corrosive and it will eat away at your tips. Also from the datasheet: "Do not use on electrical parts". You should use a rosin type flux for electrical work. Try a chisel-type tip for faster heat transfer and a thinner size rosin core leaded 60/40 solder. I fully agree with you, practise makes perfect. Keep practising!
Just subscribed to your channel bud. Been getting a crash course on auto repair thanks to being the PROUD owner of a 93 miata! Everyone tells me to get rid of it, but that's not going to happen. I cant afford to pay a mechanic so I do research and then work on it myself. So far I've done the brakes, timing belt and water pump, upgraded my differential which required new driveshaft and axles, and I'm currently working on a cranks no spark situation. Your videos have been really helpful for common sense tips. I like your style dude. Keep up the work , its appreciated.
Excellent video Eric, I always use what you called the Ed China method never failed me in over thirty plus years, I don't touch the conductors at all by twisting them, just strip the insulation back dip in the flux, then apply the solder, never fails and makes a permanent joint that lasts for years and years.
Couple of points. The numbers on the solder represent the mix of metals by percent. Old lead/tin solder is being replaced with other "lead-free" where the lead is replaced with a different less well known heavy metal. I find 60/40 easiest to use but there are a lot of different kinds for different purposes. Careful of your flux. It is meant to chemically clean the wires to allow the solder to "wet" the surface. This cleaning is often done by the flux turning into an acid when heated. The acid is corrosive to tools and wires. Residual acid could cause the wire to fail later. Last be careful of "freezing" the joint. Let it cool and solidify without moving it. Frozen solder looks frosty on the surface and can break or fail. It only takes an extra second or two of waiting.
Good vid. Thanks
"Lead free" solder are of two types Antimonial 5 %/ tin 95%, and tin 95%/silver5%.The purpose of a flux is to keep the joining metals clean to enable the solder to physically mix with both surfaces and bond the two surfaces ( surface tension effects are improved with a flux) ( an intermediate alloy occurs where the solder metal penetrates the parent metal). The flux is critical in soldering as without flux the joint will not develop the bond . Heat is crucial as the metal needs to melt and flow into the joint, try soldering tinplate, brass and galvanised iron, then u would appreciate the use of soldering
malteser I used flux on all my solder joints and wire brushed off the joint afterwards to remove any corrosives left behind.
+malteser There are dozens of lead free alloys, but the two common ones for electronics are SAC305 (96.5% tin, 3% silver, 0.5% copper) and the cheaper, but even harder to work with, 99.3% tin/0.7% copper.
That lead-free solder is somewhat harder to use successfully because it has a notably higher melting point.
Keep up the great videos Eric.
Great video
I noticed that your alligator clips are munching up the insulation. You could put some heatshrink around each jaw on the alligator clips. That should still grip things nicely and not munch things.
Awesonymous RC that's actually and outstanding tip. so thank you!
El Fueda no probs!
+Awesonymous RC Or even better than heat-shrink: use silicone tubing over the jaws. It won't melt or shrink at soldering temperatures.
I was going to suggest the same thing!
ERIC, a larger spade type tip will help you, the contact area is too small for quick heating, never use leadfree solder its bloody horrible.
Smashing job eric, yes you have indeed redeemed yourself :-))
Thanks for the input and for your comment. Not just in this video, but many others. Thank you.
+EricTheCarGuy
top tip apply some silicone around the repair then slide the shrink tube this will weather proof the joint
Always use lead free.
If you're remotely competent it's close enough in performance as makes no difference, and you really really need extraction - especially with leaded.
You also don't need a bigger tip, just don't use the very tip of your tip - it'll tin several mm further up than where the tip was used in this clip... Use it a little higher up and you'll get more heat transfer. Applying fresh solder to the tip once it's in contact with the wires also helps - you'll see it bridge together as the fresh solder brings a little fresh flux to the party.
If you're incapable of working with lead-free solder and without supplementary flux, your problem is incompetence, not materials.
I think I did a much better job with this version. How To Solder Ultimate Guide -EricTheCarGuy
Practice makes perfect :) Its a skill and so takes time to get it right.
The solder you are using is too thick [for the heat mass you have] which is one of the reason it is taking so long to melt in the two methods you showed first, look for some lead solder in the 1mm and lower size it will melt a lot quicker.
Heat is the killer of electronic parts and you want to use as little of it as possible to solder [why i am so glad you got a decent weller station :) ]
The use of thinner solder that has lead in it [its not always bad just don't breath in the fumes] with ther right tip on the solder iron and you will find in time you can lower the temp of the iron to just above the melting point
Tinning the tip for me is putting a bit of solder on it then wiping it off on the pad.
The 'Ed China' method is the one I was taught in basic electronics [for radio ham] in the UK and has you can see the solder melted a lot faster [due to the lower heat mass]
Again practice makes perfect :)
Great video. As a car audio and electronics installer this video will be great for newbie installers on soldering basics. As ***** said thinner solder will help a lot for that size wire.
Great "how to" for begginers +1 ericthecarguy
That ed china method is also called the "certified nasa method", which is pretty much what the name indicates. When you're applying solder to the wire it's called pre-tinning.
I find it much harder to do between wires, however it works out pretty well when soldering your wire to something else, like a metal tab.
Love the video. Here are 2 tips. 1. use thinner solder 2. always use flux. If you always use flux it will ensure that you have made a good connection even though some one may not be that good at soldering yet.
Wow for 15 years I thought I was doing everything right but I guess not I learn how to solder again in a much better cleaner way thanks Eric
Used to make wire harnesses (high school age) for Semi Industry.
Enjoy your voice and style (no jokes or music) I’ll keep watching. Stay Healthy 🧬
Good techniques and advice! I do have one tip that would help save you a lot more time. The solder you used is best for soldering copper pipes with a torch. In other words, thick solder for a lot of heat over a large surface area. When I switched to thin solder only about the width of mechanical pencil lead it melted and wicked into the wiring strands twenty times faster. The thicker the solder is the more you have to heat up the wiring to compensate for all the heat the cooler solder is absorbing out of the hot wires when they're in contact with each other until the solder gets up to its melting point.
Eric, you should get a chisel-shaped tip for the soldering-iron (like the one you have on the butane iron). Gives you way better heat transfer than the thin conical ones.
Also, the flux plumbers use are not the same as you want for soldering electronics or cables, it's totally different stuff.
And one last tip, get some thinner solder, starts melting easier and it's easier to control the amount of solder you put on the joint.
But overall, great video, will definately help lots of beginners making decent solder joints!
Plumber's flux is meant for unleaded silver solder...
In high school I went to the Erie County technical school as well as my high school, and I was doing a project that had to do with electrical circuits and my tech teacher gave me some flux core solder and it was the best thing I have ever used in terms of soldering.
So I think you should try it.
Again
-Flux Core Solder
Another thing, the solder that you used to use was Lead Free and silver bearing so it took a lot longer to melt and fuse.
The new solder that you use is 60/40 which means it's part lead part silver bearing so it melts and fuses faster.
^^ this might not be right but I believe that was the case. ^^
Thank you so much for all your time and effort into all the videos that you make. I greatly appreciate it, you've taught me a lot.
Hi everyone good video here's a few tips from me , I spend on average 4 hours a day soldering as part of my job. Using the right tip for the job is very important. The type of tip you used in the video is more suited to soldering components, for example re working the circuit board behind an instrument cluster. For soldering to wires two wire together I would use a chisel tip (mines 4mm wide) this allows for much faster heat transfer to the wires, it takes about 5 sec to flow the solder. I use liquid flux as it absorbed in to the wire better At the end of the job leave the soldering iron tinned with a generous amount of solder, this much improves the longevity of the tip as it stops it from oxidizing,
I switched from a sponge to brass this year, it's much better. If the tip gets super dirty and forgot to clean after last use, try 1200 grit sandpaper then re-tin immediately. You'll be amazed at how much better the solder flows especially when using flux.
Hey Eric..Goldie here...HUGE HUGE fan. I always try the things you recommend. Which is why I'm commenting again lol. I bought the diamond disposable gloves you use...AWESOME! Night and day difference between the other stuff I was using. Now with this video I bought the radioshack brand 60/40 solder. WOW. I was using the HarborFreight solder before since it was cheap and it was SO hard to solder. I thought I was doing something wrong cause it just wasn't going right. Now I know the problem was the product quality. I use radioshack flux and solder and man do I feel like a pro! Eric YOU ARE THE MAN. Keep up the awesome work and hope to meet you in person one day. - a huge fan Goldie
I learned to solder by watching this!! First time out and I just saved a $100 pair of Grado headphones for less than $30! With the lead-free solder included with the low=budget Weller no less! Thank you thank you thank you! As a temporary wire holder I used my (unplugged) meter probes' alligator clips stuck in a thick book.
Just a tip, when you were heating up the wire to draw in the solder, if you just touch some solder in between the iron tip and the wire it transfers the heat much quicker to the wire and then when you touch the solder back on the opposite side of the wire to the iron tip it will be much easier and quicker. Thanks for the vid! :D
Good demonstratons, Eric, with the exception that you failed to use the flux that you mentioned until near the last demonstration, and flux is critically important to a good solder joint--electrical or plumbing. As you discovered, flux will cause the solder to draw much better and cover much better. If you ever attempt to solder a copper plumbing joint without using flux, you'll very likely end up with a leak. Even if you don't, you'll have a much weaker joint. Thanks for you demonstrations. Keep up the good work!
You're right about the plumbing solder joints needing a separate flux, but in Eric's case he was using rosin flux core solder. Has flux built in. Any extra is just gravy and might help a little with the speed, but is not completely necessary for a strong joint.
Medicman even so, adding a bit of paste before hand spreads the solder faster
Medicman Thanks for your comments, Medicman. I should have paid more attention to the lables or the spools of solder he displayed. Still, adding a little flux woudn't have hurt any and may have helped a litle. Don't want any cold solder joints. ;)
Eric,
the 60/40 is 60% tin and 40% lead alloy that is common with electrical work. Good video.
practice practice practice. I was pretty terrible at soldering until this latest gm recall where you cut out the airbag connectors in the front seats and then solder the wires together. after all that practice i've gotten pretty good.
As many have mentioned already, you wait with the solder until the wire has been heated. Look at the solder you have on your tip, as long as that is solid the wire isn't hot enough to apply more solder.
It would also help to have a larger surface area on your tip (like a spade tip) in contact with the wire.
Running your iron on high temperature is good when you have had more practice as things go quicker and the quicker you are the better the join will be (less chance for mess) but if you don't have the correct technique and you run a high temperature iron you will burn the insulation on the wire, damaging it and making the area around the joint brittle.
You have that crimp tube there to protect the _damaged_ area but a perfect joint affects an as small area as possible.
You should have introduced the flux earlier in the video btw, you have to use flux for these _large_ soldering jobs where you have lots of heat transfer.
A bigger tip would have had similar effect as the flux.
And finally, your solder wire is too thick for the application, it needlessly requires more heat to melt and you only needed a small portion of it.
For me, a rule of thumb is that the solder wire you need to use should be as long as the area you want to solder.
I.E, if you were to cut the solder wire into a piece as long as the exposed area, that's the length of wire you need. If that length seems to be _too much_ solder then your wire is too thick.
That Weller station is awesome! But I think you'll get better results with a chisel tip instead of the conical tip (Weller sells many different styles of tips to go with those). Conical tips dont provide very good heat transfer. Also I find that the brass mesh tip cleaners work much better than a damp sponge.
+davecooper360 agreed Chisel has a larger surface, hence better heat and results
For starters, +EricTheCarGuy didn't do a bad job in my opinion, and I solder a lot, considering I'm an avionics tech lol. I think the best tip I got when learning is that when you are soldering, once the solder melts and enough of it is on the joint, pull it away as fast as possible. If the solder is matte, it's a cold solder and will not hold under load; it'll just pop off. It has to be shiny. It's vital to have a solder vacuum pump if you're soldering pretty much anything other than wire joints, for those times when you do a cold solder, which everyone does.
Love the video! I'm just starting out with soldering (though I really don't have too much use for it) so this was very helpful! Was looking at some other soldering tutorials and when I saw you had a video about it I knew I had to check it out. I own an older Honda so your videos are what keeps bringing me back whenever I need help. And if EricTheCarGuy has a video about it, it's guaranteed to be good!
Keep your tip shiny don't just put blobs of solder on it and say its good! That temperature is way to high or you just have a strange iron. The
NASA style of soldering is what I use which is tin ends of wires and then solder ends together, that way it is cleaner and very very strong. For large wires it can be easier to use a butane torch. Always use a Transformer type soldering station not a cheap iron, I've had so many break its not worth it. Some people will say don't use a wet sponge to clean the tip as the sudden cooling of the tip can cause excessive wear, instead use metal filings or metal scoring pad. Oxidation is a major cause of weak joints, I found to clean oxidized wires, degreaser worked well, some degreasers may not. Do not move your solder joints when the solder is cooling, this will cause a cold joint and is dangerously weak, you can tell if you have a cold joint by looking at the color, if its dull, you have a bad joint, instead it should be nice and shiny. But most important of all is, STAY DIRTY!
Eric: I really enjoy your videos and have learned a lot. Let me mention a little about your choice of solders. The 60/40 solder contains lead and is very good for electronic and soldering wires. It contains a flux which is non corrosive. The soldering paste contains acid and is corrosive, and at some point can cause a high resistance connection. You really should clean the wires with fine sandpaper so it is shiny. The lead free solder that you showed is crap and is designed for plumbing, and requires a very high heat to flow properly. I personally use a pair of electricians snips for stripping, and if I don't have them use a sharp knife. I have been doing this for over 40 years, and being able to do this just requires practice. By the way, the Radio Shack solder, and the one marked Archer are exactly the same.
Well this one's about 70% better than the first one so he's making improvement.
Great job, The iron tip could be shinier and tinned more, adding more solder to tip while heating wire will transfer the heat a LOT faster, which is why Edd China's method is good(more solder to transfer heat on each end). Also, that solder is too thick, always use the thinnest solder you can find, it melts faster and all you have to do is just feed faster. Dipping your iron tip in a copper scrubber is the best way to keep your tip shiny and super efficient! Love the vids Eric!!
Haha I was getting so aggravated when you weren't using the flux, until you finally did. I honestly swear by the stuff... Nice video! Love the new angles, adds lots of perspective.
Nice! you got a Weller station, Not a single penny wasted on that! The best way i like it is to heat up the wire a little for a few seconds then slide the wire between where the tip and the copper wire meets. The melted solder spreads the heat even faster on the hot wire so it doesn't take ages.. Thats why the flux or whatever its called over there spreads it much faster. ;) But yea, the flux is still the best solution for the super fast connection. ;)
oh boy. this vid has convinced me to finally do a basic soldering tutorial. ETCG is great but soldering is like spray painting- it looks easy but is fairly involved.
Good Job Eric! You improved alot... Just adding to your "Ed China" method. The reason for this method is that if you solder wires in any other way and then need to undo the joint, it will be very difficult and time taking to do. With this method it is very quick to join and undo joints very quickly. That is also the reason why this method is preferred by NASA.
Seems to take forever for the wire to get hot. What I do when soldering wires together is to increase the surface area between the soldering tip and the wire by adding a bit of solder right above the point where the iron meets the wire, this allows the heat to be transferred much quicker. Once this is done the solder can applied to the wire directly.
Soldering is an art. You're right, it takes practice, lots of it. In the world of electronics, it depends on the application if you use a gun over an iron. If you're soldering a ground lug to a large piece of stranded wire, you're going to need something that will provide a lot of heat and sustain the heat while soldering. Thus, the soldering gun. If you're making a connection of two #18 stranded wires, like in the video's, a chisel tip iron like you have provides enough heat to sweat the joint through.
Guns are a very useful tool. You have to know when you need it. Just like using a 1/2" air-gun over a 1/4" ratchet. It depends on the application at hand.
Very good video, informative. I just had to give the Soldering gun a pat on the back. They are a valuable tool to have and should not be dismissed.
Thanks for the great video! I tried soldering today at work but failed miserably. With the instructions from the video and everyone's comments, I think I'll be more prepared next time!
Excellent. 60/40 here I come. Have been doing it wrong all my life.
Eric you were saying one solder was better that another, I have heard that lead free solder is sometimes harder to work with. I like the mini helping hands you made nice touch. Great video. Thanks for the tips and instruction
The Ed China soldering method was originally used by NASA engineers ;) They used it in a space shuttles - so it is "Space technology" :)
As an avionics tech by trade (23 years and counting) this is the ONLY way I am allowed to solder wires together. I know we are held to a higher standard, but there are some simple tips to
1. Clean with alcohol what your are about to solder.
2. Use Flux (for electronics - not the plumbers stuff) EVERY TIME.
3. Tin your wire before soldering.
4. Remove all traces of flux. It's not corrosive but will attract stuff that is...
Thomas Jackson You have J-STD too? Not sure of any other certs but the "Ed China"/"Nasa" method was the way I was told to do stuff. Saying that, we also soldered after crimping 38999 pins which i've later found isn't the norm.
jonno85uk Certified back in the mid 90's. When I worked at Warner-Robins AFB it was a yearly class/certification. And man do I NOT miss soldering pins... haven't had to do that for about ten years now.
2:57 I like the little helping hands alligator clips idea, I have the commercial one with the ball and socket positionable arms for the alligator clips, but the simple wire loop one is nice and easy. I'll have to make up a few with the scrap solid wire. 👍
Thats what i can never get over....is the time it takes to get the wire hot enough. I had tried this exact method with a wire i was trying to splice into a harness. and the wire was so thick i must have waited ten minutes heating the wire because the iron wasnt getting hot enough. The heat of the gun plays an important role. I always crimp where i can and solder where i cant crimp. Thanks for sharing
The lead free solder takes a ton of heat to melt. The radio shack solder (in the video) is leaded and sticks better. Clean wires and adding some flux will help the solder stick better. I love my chisel style tips on my Weller.
This was very helpful, it wasn't shown in this much detail in trade school. Tin the tip and a lil flux goes a long way. I'll need new tips cause I now know mine are burnt out but now I know how to make em last. Thanx again
I enjoyed the video even though I have been soldering for years. The Air Force taught me about doing such tasks since we had to do repairs on the aircraft, and equipment we worked with, but I didn't know about people using the foam to clean the gun. I always used the paper towels to clean my gun instead. I saw others do it, so that was what I did also, even though we didn't get to use the solder gun that much on the job. Thanks for sharing this information, and I hope you enjoyed the July 4th holiday.
60/40 rosin core solder is the ideal choice. But also you’re doing small wires. Basically if you’re smaller than 10 gauge you’re only hurting your progress using the .062 diameter solder. The .032 will get faster wicking with good penetration but won’t travel up the inside of the wire. Using the .062 you need more heat to get it to flow and as an effect it’ll tend to flow up under the insulation of the wire more than you want it too.
Thank you, this was very helpful! I struggled all day yesterday trying to wire up flounder gigging lights on my boat. I think I will try that 60/40 and the flux to go back and redo what I screwed up
one tip bro, since it should not take that long to solder a single joint: rub the tip of the iron back and forth under the connection to heat it up quicker. and u can also gently touch the solder to the tip when ur heating up the connection and pull away and it seems to melt the solder into the connection right away... atleast thats how I do it and it works great. i also use the lead free since it IS for electrical connections. i know some of the "pros" even say to use 60/40, but I don't like working with lead.
I was jumping up and down when you mentioned Ed China. Wheeler Dealers is one of my favorite shows.
Also, top work on this video.
poor ed doesn't ever get paid though.. he does all the work and then when they add up the costs, i never see ed's labor in there.. factor in the labor, almost every one of those deals are losers..i still watch though.. did anyone else throw up in the mouth a little when they painted over the SS badges on that 68 camaro? talk about totally casting doubt on that paint and body work.. if i walked up to it i would think backyard re-spray or macco/earl schibe.. both those guys should have their peepee's whacked with a ruler for that one..
Thank you for another awesome auto tech video! I was originally into Computer Information Systems/Tech so this particular video is right up my alley. I would like to advise you against using acid based flux with Electronics (PCBs, components, etc) and Wiring because the acid will actually cause the wiring to corrode over time. However, using Rosin Paste/Flux is my preferred method of soldering any application. Another thing which helps is you could coat the wires in dielectric grease before applying the heat shrink tubing.
Keep the videos rolling! Thank you again!
a little late to the show but... Most of these things have been touched on before, Rosin flux for electrical, 1/4" tip for your iron, we used forceps but I liked the idea of putting heat shrink on the alligator clip jaws/work holding jig. Tips are sacrificial so have a few extra, use a flat file when they start deforming, tin the tip leaving a little blob on it. reduce the heat control to around 7, bring up slowly till the solder melts, then increase to the next half setting, adjust up as needed, the idea is not to overheat the solder or the finished product.Take a piece of tissue, dab with alcohol and wipe the oxidation off the solder. Ed Shiners method was what we were taught, and two seconds you were done or you removed heat, give it a second, and try again. Clean the joint with alcohol when finished. Your finished joint should be shiny, if it's dull or flat, then the solder has been overheated. Get a small fan to blow the smoke somewhere, lead fumes, not so good for you.
I'm sure I've missed some stuff. GL, your mileage may vary, Loved the Fairmont build in particular.
Weller is not the only company that produces these soldering stations, but they sure are the best. I grew up with these, since it's a German company, although they have been acquired in the 70s by some international corporation (which is I think US based).
For wire soldering work where moisture can be an issue like under the hood in the engine bay, I always use the heat shrink tubing that has a coating on the inside that melts to the wire as the tubing shrinks and thus is water/chemical proof.
It is quite good.
Tip: Its also recommended to put a very small amount of a dielectric grease (silicone) on the joint after having completed the soldering and before putting the shrinktube on. This helps to prevent corrosion and helps but does not (for ever) prevent moisture getting to the soldiered joint
have you considered being an instructor in the automotive tech school. I think you have the charm,knowledge and experience to be a great teacher and especially how you make your instructions very detailed that even a no-know-how guy can learn.
+magicstorm1 Now he just needs to get his skills and knowledge up to par!
Eric, you demonstrating in large garage workshop. Ambient temperature for the job is going to be difficult to have heat transfer (cold solder / bad solder). Ambient temperature in a bedroom / home office with out a/c is better for soldering. This is where gun solder works best ..avoid fan or cold table top. You can get mini vice for five bucks looks like a toy but works awesome because it has suction cup and can place any where. Pre solder two ends of wire where they junction before twist them together will reduce flexing break apart. I use twice the thickness solder than what you got with gun on trigger its best because it keeps solder tip cool only needed upon soldering time ..strong enough to weld battery cable two ends for good long time and I have mine yet broken
Estimated solder heat should take only few sec before applying solder wire (18guage) its an instant melt if you try this in stable room temperature rather than open garage workshop..
Flux is important always :)
A lot people install wires with out soldering.. Gets into issues like driving stalls ..lost of power... Static...random engine malfunctioning..after market lighting flickers ... So another words ...solder people!
Hi Eric - on the ed china method as you call it twist the ends of the wires together first and then tin them, put them together then flash the flame of your butane torch over them
and they will melt together perfectly. Give it a go! all the best.
Hi Eric, I use the same blue and yellow wire stripper as you, the silver knob at the back of it, is actually a tensioner for a variety of different sized wire, so you don’t cut through no wires, only the insulation, not sure if you knew this tip, but mate great videos your doing, keep up the great work 🤙🏼🇦🇺
I had a lot of trouble trying to solder but this REALLY helped me. Thanks!
Some tinn rolls are pre fluxed (flux in the tinn wire), thats why it works better. And the dripping method wich you shouldnt use (as you said) is actually called for cold sodering. But I use flux my self. Works really good. Also you did good! :) Gotta love a perfect soder.
No it's called bridging. Cold soldering is just that - not enough heat used to get good flow of solder. It causes very poor joints referred funny enough as "Cold Solder Joints" and they cause the worse type of problems... temperature induced intermittent failures.
KLEIN Katapult Wire Stripper and Cutter: !!!... Replaced ALL my outlets/switches to white.. started with the twist type stripper.. after 2nd 0utlet, said screw this... broke down, went to Home Depot and spent the $$ for the Katapult.... OMG... SO WORTH IT !!! Planned on selling it after that project, but kept it.. and GLAD I DID !! .. Comes in Handy.. It's Da Bomb !!!
Eric. A larger chisel style tip would let you take control with these larger wires. The tip you've got on in this video is for smaller wires, or soldering small resistors to a board and ect. Where it does not require a lot of heat.
Hey, Eric, the reason Lead Free is more difficult to deal with from 60/40 is because of contents, or should I say ingredients of the solder. Lead-free requires a higher temperature yield over 60/40. Why? Because They contain alloys in most instances Tin, Silver, and Copper and they require a higher temperature before they reach their melting points with the help of flux which is an agent that prevents oxidation and promotes bonding in the direction of heat which is why most professionals say that when you solder you lay the iron on the wire and let the heat do the work. This is where Lead comes in. Lead has a much lower temperature yield from the other alloys, like so soft you could rub it off on your hands if its pure. So to help the solder melt faster in todays hobbyist standards they use it in some electronics, never in plumbing because as anyone would know, lead is poison, and if you use it in components that work with heat the solder could melt and undo the connections, so it easier to deal with in some cases but at a price. Lead free is good when you are working in a higher temperature component environment it melts at around 310-350 sometimes more depending on the manufacturer, 60/40 is at around 60-100 degrees cooler and it varies. And yes I know the temperature can be different fellas, I know, but speaking from just purchasing from a radio shack as a scenario. this gets pretty close to about there
I so like that when you around 11 minutes you can hear the clock ticking on the background because it's so quiet there. :D I so like that.
your last two methods are exactly how i do it. great video, as always. thanks and keep them hondas running.
Eric, Thank you for taking the time to create these vids. I am the experienced DIY'r in a sense . I generally tackle all of my jobs as I have built muscle cars/bikes etc. So I have engineering exp in customizing and general maintenance in the auto, home, and hobby lifestyle. That said, I never really learned how to properly solder. Yes sorry bit embarrassing i know. I tried to start by soldering each end of the wire to make it solid in a sense vs having all of the wires twisted separately, no real reason other than I used to see home audio connection points done this way. I I tried and failed when trying to get both ends to make the final soldered connection. My issue is not having enough hands to hold the ends in perfect position and a hand to feed the solder and lastly a hand to heat the wire. That said, after seeing the tool you made it look like this will solve that issue very quickly and easliy. My last concern is the heating of the wire. I was trying to drip solder and failed every-time. But I am scared to heat the wire directly as it looks like its making the cladding change color and even start to deform as its starting to melt. Is this ok.....?
Very good video , one thing that you are not supposed to do is use a lighter on the heat shrink tube . You can do two things , use a heat gun or the heat shrink shield adapter that comes with most solder irons . Also One other thing you can use to strip the wire is the hot blade adapter that also come with most solder iron kits .
Thanks Eric your a lifesaver. To be honest i really didn't know a damn thing about soldering after this video i can really say it is alot easier then before. Your right a little bit of flux does go along way and 60/40 solder is my preferred choice. Thanks Paulie
One thing i noticed. If it is taking forever for the solder to melt add a little to the tip while it is still making contact with the cable and it will heat up faster. Also you can add a little to the tip to get the 'melt" started and then move it up so it draws in the solder.
The clock in the background is epic
I have a wire stripper like that Klein here- a tip with those. Put the wire in the appropriate section, then rotate around the wire, then pull off the insulation.
Still not as convenient as those one step tools like used here, but it makes a huge difference.
How I was taught to solder is to tin a clean tip and immediately touch the wire so the flux in the solder doesn't burn off. Next, lightly touch the area between the wire and tip with the solder to start it flowing then move the solder to the opposite side to continue the flow.
The reason why you're finding the "60/40" to be easier to work with is the other type you've used in the past... 50/50, which is a Tin/Lead ratio, the 60/40 has a lower melting point than that of the 50/50, for best results with lead solder is a 63/37 ratio, this almost eliminates the "plastic" which is in the point between solid state and liquid state.
You'll find it melts very quickly, similar to that when using the flux paste. Lead free solder is another option (Tin-Silver-Copper - most common) but a pre fluxed (rosin) lead free solder. As of yet, there are no US laws (outside CA) mandating the removal of lead, so this is of no importance.
Keep up the great vids :)
The solder issue: what you saw is the difference between leaded and lead-free solder. Leaded works well but it's leaded (wash your hands after soldering). Lead free is "safer" but has a higher melting temperature (and other issues too). Hence, I personally only use leadfree if and when needed (rare).
I remember watching the old vid like a hundred times lol. Thanks
The Radioshack 60/40 is the Pb/Sn content which is Lead and Tin. If you search and understand a little bit of materials and their phases, you will find that the lowest temperature to melt this 2 elements is given around 63/37 mix, which helps to solder with a lower temperature.
The Lead free soldering wire, is another single or combined elements that have a different melting point and characteristics, plus lead adheres to ferrous materials, which this one lacks.. That is why you had trouble melting and preparing the tip of the gun.
I use the the same method of using alligator clips as a mini vice , but a little trick you might like is that I apply shrink tubing over the clip "fingers" that way they don't dig into the wire as badly.
The "Ed China" method as you call it (although I don't know the guy) is how I learned soldering from my father as well. When soldering wires together with this method, it is critical that the two wires are held exactly parallel to each other!
By the way, when soldering wire, you tin the tip, then wipe away the excess solder on the tip. Once that blob of melted solder on the tip stays there a while it doesn't want to transfer to the metal because the tip is hotter. Tinning is like seasoning a frying pan, you don't want to keep the oil in the pan . WHen you touch the tip to the wire, it is best to, contrary to what some think, touch the solder to the iron in order to get a slight flow of solder. This slight flow will act like a heat transfer paste and transfer the heat of the iron to the wire. Once that happens, you can touch the solder to the wire. Just think of computer processors, they need a paste to efficiently transfer heat from the p rocessor to the metal heat sink and sometimes you need melted solder to transfer heat from the iron to the wire.
You can also use paste flux in conjunction with pre fluxed wire.
I wish this video was out 6 years ago when I started soldering on a regular basis. I could of avoid so many heartaches and stupid mistakes.