Unpacking Fashion's Biggest Problems: S/S 24 Menswear Discussion
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- Опубликовано: 10 июн 2023
- Stylists, designers, artists, students, writers, critics and more came to the studio to talk about the hurdles facing designers today, and how the fashion system should, and can, evolve for the better. In this episode, revisit the highlights from the first day of SHOWstudio's fashion week Afternoon Tea, hosted by Emily Zak. Topics include Brexit, the changing role of the catwalk show and the transformative power of technology.
Guests include Andrew Davis, Dal Chodha, Karen Binns, Lucy Maguire, Despoina Zachariadou, Mandi Lennard, Tamara Cincik, Nick Knight, Adémidé Udoma and Daniel of Abaga Velli, and more.
00:08 Runway Shows
06:08 Curating
08:31 Abaga Velli Brand Intro
10:10 Runway Alternatives
16:05 Identity
22:30 Fashion Buyers
27:40 Hustling
30:10 Mentorship
31:55 Brexit
34:39 Internships
44:20 Business Support
Explore the on-going project: showstudio.com/projects/after...
Established in November 2000, SHOWstudio is an award-winning fashion website, founded and directed by Nick Knight, that has defined the manner in which fashion is presented via the Internet. A pioneer of fashion film and live fashion broadcasting, SHOWstudio is now recognised as the leading force behind these mediums, offering a unique platform to nurture and encourage fashion to engage with moving image in the digital age. In its documentation of fashion and the arts, SHOWstudio has collaborated with pop culture icons and creatives including Lady Gaga, John Galliano, Kate Moss, Alexander McQueen, Tracey Emin, Shayne Oliver, Matthew Williams, Kanye West, Gareth Pugh and many more.
Visit SHOWstudio: showstudio.com/
Explore our channel: showstudio
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Twitter: / showstudio
Facebook: / showstudio
Shop our selection of art and books: shop.showstudio.com/ 
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Martine Rose recently did an interview in the guardian (i think) about this and it made me think that I dont think the problems LFW is having is purely creative. In my opinion, this butterfly effect really started with the idea to make London genderless, which was around 10 years ago when *both* london fashion weeks (mens and womens) became gender neutral. In the beginning it made sense, gender neutral or genderless fashion was coming up and it was a great way to get eyes on the upcoming mens designers (Nasir, Martine, Christopher Shannon) but now, because other fashion weeks didnt follow suit, it just leaves LFW with two less focused weeks rather than one.
More buyers, PR people and influencers, even celebrities, travel for the womens week anyway, so it made sense for the designers who were showing in the mens week before, to have their show then, purely for more eyes is more business, so we saw a slight migration over to that later week. But as a result the first of the two got less and less interesting, and so it meant London as a whole had less people talking about it in general (one opportunity for virality instead of the two the others had) and so obviously the other fashion weeks became more desirable in comparison. The designers naturally follow the media and the buyers; so they left. Now they either do their own thing (nasir, Christopher) or they show elsewhere (kiko) and so LFW doesnt have the creativity to bring back the media.
I wanted to weigh in on the discussion about having a style versus being able to experiment. I agree with what everyone said about how it is important to experiment and develop a style, to find your own personal point of view. But, at the same time, there is a difference between the creative as a person and the creative as a brand. If you were talking about the company, having a brand is important, it *has* to have a united aesthetic in order to seemingly authentically sell products to consumers. A creative person, personally doesn't necessarily need that as their goal is different, because it's not commercial. There is a huge difference between the creative personally experimenting to develop their style and the company producing something that is on brand yet over time developing creatively on what that brand is. One can afford, even enjoy, being haphazard with creativity, the other cannot. For this reason I think it is important for young creatives to have a distance between themselves and themselves-as-a-brand
P.s., those flowers are incredible, are they from Nick's garden?
. Love this format. Just wish sound would be better.
a nice carpet 🤌
@@understitchYT . I've never liked carpets.
@@pablojavieralfaro8999 great for sound though
@@understitchYT . Good point.
That's the big problem with SHOW studio's videos, the sound is mostly always bad (I don't think even RUclips auto subtitles can hear clearly)
A shame that this is plagued by shockingly bad sound. The wrong type of microphones (and possibly stands, too - insufficient shock insultation in their rubber feet...if they even have any) for the job, resulting in far too much ambient noise. Just listen to the rumble between the speaking - it sounds like they are on a moving vehicle. I gave up after a few minutes, as I was not able to hear what was being said - the footsteps of people walking nearby are as loud as the voices.
I think most of the panelists are only talking about most CSM students wanting to start their own label..but that's not the real issue. There are other university students looking for job and working so hard.
Great to see the actual experts back on the panel, keep it up
guys please fix the audio next time
The audio quality and ambient sound gave me a headache after five minutes...
These people need to fix their sound. Jesus Christ!!
Really irritating that when a crucial point is being made it's cut mid-sentence - makes it difficult to follow along. Not sure who edited this but pleaseeee stop doing that :(
poorly "miked"...
denim is cаncer. that's the only problem I see this season