I used a 25k pot instead of 2 resistors...trigger wire hooked to the center terminal of the pot. Worked the same and found I had an intermittent problem. Seems like either some gooey stuff had leaked out of the thing indicating a problem. Buying a new or used sensor next but Im sure this is why my volvo wont start anymore. Seemed like it was running good then would run rough then get better....then run worse....then run ok.....then low power....then ok......finally wouldnt start any more. Code reader said P001...camshaft position over advanced..So i figured Id pull the sensor out and your test shows intermittent problem....sometimes it works...sometimes it dont....and in cold weather it wouldnt even start. Thanks for this video !!!!
most clear video on cam sensor bench testing. Thanks you. I just have a question. with the low resistance pin pair, which would be the GND and which will be the +5V?
great video. in process of troubleshooting my 1991 Olds Toronado. Crank, no start problem. have fuel pressure, injectors are firing, voltage to the ignition module, but no spark. Going to use what i learned from this vid to look at it tommorrow. Thanks!
I have a sensor off of a Suzuki ATV and the manufacturer maintenance manual says the hall effect speed sensor can fluctuate from 0-6v or 6-0v when a suitable ferrous metal object is placed in front of the sensor if it's working correctly. So when "unactivated" it read 6v or 0v.
Are aftermarket crank sensor's always trouble? I couldn't afford Mopar for my Jeep XJ and bought Standard Motor Products CPS instead. No problems so far - but worried it'll crap out as lots of the forums say only buy OE.
Great video but I feel you left something out in your paper demo. Do you need to apply 12v to the sensor to make it actuate. Sorry if I missed something. Thx.
Thanks for this video. I couldn't find any information anywhere that was similar to my problem. Mine is also "locking" back and forth between gnd and 11v.
Definitely. I hate just throwing parts at cars without properly diagnosing the exact part and ensuring it is in fact working, or not working as it should. Picked up the cam sensor today and she's running like a champ now.
You said to poke around and find resistance between two of the three pins. I did that. The two on the outside showed resistance. Now which one you said is the ground because my ohmmeter didn't tell me. I don't know how yours did. I like to buy your meter. Can you tell me it's make and model. I like that kind of ohmmeter. Thanks.
Now how about a hall effect sensor without a low reference? I have a dual hall-effect (two sensors with a shared magnet) which is a four wire. It does not have a 5v reference. How can I bench test this sensor?
great video, i got a question, why you give 5.5v and 12v at the same time to the sensor? if we give only 12 to the sensor, and detect the voltage between signal and GND, can we get the correct signal voltage like 4.8+ and 0.8-? other words: in your model, the multimeter reads the voltage of sensor and your lower resistor in paralelle, is that right?
Test may show if a sensor is dead, but still need an oscilloscope to determine if signal is clean or noisy garbage. Air gap tolerance is far too sensitive to replicate on a bench.
Fantastic video, thank you! If the sensor is good and the car is still throwing a no signal code, would that likely be the wiring harness to the sensor?
From someone on the other side of your experience, best answer would be one that doesn't answer your question. In your scenario, you're going to have to continue checking upstream from your sensor. That's right, start checking your wiring visually and for continuance ( continuity check the wire and test it against any possible ground around it.) And then test where it ends. On and on and on. Eventually, you will hit a fault. Don't worry you'll learn like I did.
CAN YOU ANSWER IF YOU LEFT THE RESISTOR OUT ON YOUR SIMULATED ECU, WHAT READINGS WOULD YOU GET? I TESTED A KNOWN GOOD ONE GAVE GOOD WAVE FORM BUT NOW I CAN NOT. PERHAPS I RUINED THE SENSOR?
My Nissan automatic car when you drive doesnt exceed 100 speed, even if you press the gas pedal to the bottom. Can this be faulty on speed sensors? ? Because the transmission fluid is ok and is its required level
If I use a 9volts battery an just the wire an sensor with no resistor if I bench testing it,plus do I have to drain the battery down to 5volts to perform this test as how I not using resistors????
Great video first of all he r I’m a little confused on the set up can I use my standard car battery hook up say speaker wire or leads in that pos for pos beg for neg and than if I add a wire betten those to connecting positive and negative from the battery with the wire than be 5.5 v ? So than I can test the other lead in the sensor ? Or do I need additional components and I’m missing something Or is wiring jump wires connecting post and neg to each other from massically looping the batter the way wrong thing to do and I’m miss reading this and it will end in failure ?
wrx sti you need two resistors, he has drawn them in on the drawing of the fake ecu. They’re the squiggly lines marked 5.6K ohm or similar. I know this is years later but maybe this helps
I don't understand at minute 2.00, why you connect the power cord to the yellow (signal) instead to the Red 12Volts side before passing the resistor?? Thanks.
Hello, i have a question i am new at doing this how can I use my phone charger, i read the label it says the output it's 5volts at 1.2A, can you please break it down for me, thanks a lot.
Brother thank you for replying, i have a feeling that you can help me to do this test the right way, i really need help setting up, i havea bad reputation car Hyundai Santa Fe GL 2.4 engine, that is been give me problems i had spend lots of money just replacing parts but sometimes it's not the part, i want to ask you, have you try this way of testing before, do you think you have time to write me the steps you used. Man thanks in advance i sincerely appreciate. I just hope I get to learn so i can test this components before buying another one, crank angle sensor 3 wires.
I seem to be having faulty supply or ground to my sensor. Would it be too bold to bypass these connections from the wire by connecting 12v directly to battery and ground to car body and leave the signal wire connected? :D
I asked around and got advice not to. It's not always as simple cause the ECU might control the voltage as well and bypassing that with constant voltage might do something unexpected or maybe mess the ECU. Or maybe nobody's dared try it yet :D. Well, I guess I'll check my wiring first.
Hi all! To my knowledge most engines use two types of Crankshaft sensors. 1. Inductive (magnetic) which are with one or two pins on the socket and which are capable of producing an electrical impulse without being supplied. 2. Those of hall-effect type that have 3 or 4 pins on the socket and that generate a digital pulse (square wave) provided they are supplied with a specific electrical current. Regardless of the type of Crankshaft sensor when measuring directly on the sensor with the multimeter, any type of good (not flawed) Crankshaft sensor must have a resistance of X ohms? I ask for your help in this problem because I am facing the following situation. My Crankshaft sensor no longer functional. I removed it from the engine and measured it with the digital multimeter directly on the pins. No resistance. I thought it was burnt (defective) and I bought an identical original one. When I received the sensor, before mounting it I tried to check it. Same thing. It has no resistance whatever the configuration of the measured pins. 1 with 2, 1 with 3, 3 with 1, etc. Nothing, no resistance in ohms, kohmi, although this sensor is new.. My question is: Regardless of the type of sensor crankshaft as long as it is operational (good) when directly measuring it with the multimeter must it have a certain value? My sensor type is a Mitsubishi ME203180 and as I reported above. Neither the new nor the old multimeter measurements indicate anything. Obviously the scale of the multimeter is selected correctly. Is it possible to be a perfectly operational sensor and not indicate any resistance when measuring with the multimeter? Thank you in advance!
Hi, i built same instalation to check my sensors but have two difrences. 1.when I try to measure the resistance of sensor itself I can get no reading on any of the pins so cannot determine which is which.2. when I connect the sensor to the instalation voltage from 5.6 jumps to 11 volt. its e46 m54b25 Type sensors.
This is probably a bit late, first answer, I believe that the pins on the sensor are polarity sensitive, so switching the test leads around may or may not solve that issue. Second answer, it could be that the crank sensors on e46 could be a pull up type sensor instead of a pull down type since the voltage went up to the battery voltage (note i am not very familiar with the e46 set up). You can also test the wire harness connector to see what type of sensor the engine uses. I believe that on the e46 the yellow wire is the signal and the black wire is power and the third wire is ground. First, you can use a multimeter to measure the signal wire(yellow wire) when the car is on the "ON" position or when the engine is cranking depending on the DME, if there is a reference voltage 5 volts or above, it is most likely to be a pull down design, on the other hand if the voltage reads 0 it could be that it uses a pull up design. Well, hopefully this helps.
Yes. The hall sensor is a semiconductor, so the polarity certainly matters. Make sure to check both directions. Also, the resistance might be too high to be measured by a resistometer with a weak battery. It can take a bit of voltage to get current flowing through a doped semiconductor. These are designed with high resistance to keep the current low. Paradoxically, the hall effect is most powerful at low currents. (Try the hall effect with copper if you don't believe me.)
Hello, I have a 3-wire speed sensor and I can't tell which wire is which. I've connected a multimeter across it in every possible way (with both polarities) and have infinite resistance between every pair of wires, but I know the sensor works because I took it out of a moped with a working speedometer. I tried wiring it up with the voltage divider and multimeter to measure voltage change when I bring a large metal object near it like in your video, and couldn't get it to react to anything. Any ideas what I might have done wrong?
I think you do a mistake you sho a picture sensor using 12 volt but you feeding sensor by 5 volt. most new car sensor using five volt not 12 volt And also you should not use a voltage divider to test a sensor. You should use a good regulated 5 volt power supply for sansor testing
I read infinite ohms between any of the pins on the connector of mys bosch sensor...Is that some indication of a bad sensor ? Is there a way you can find the pinout for a bosch 0232103006 sensor Sir ? Will greatly appreciate. it goes into my Ferrari F355
It does look like your sensor is a hall effect type sensor, but I could be wrong, even so, depending on the sensor, the resistance between the signal pin and or the voltage reference pin to the ground pin should be around the 5 to 7 Mega ohms due to its circuit design and the best way I can see to get a pin out is with a use of a service manual (that's if you can access one) or a wire diagram to trace each wire to each individual pins.
1999 Ferrari F355 is my car . What internal circuit creates such high resistance ? Any idea ? It cant be a coil with such high resistance ...can it be ?
I believe that the internal operational amplifier is the reason why there is such a high resistance and if you know anything about op amps, an op amp has a high input resistance/ impedance to prevent loading effects on the input circuit. Hope this helps to explain this reason.
The voltage will vary depending on the actual sensor, unless you mean you recreated this fake ecu, and its reading 10 volts. you would need more resistance
**Great explantion on these Hall sensors** ; been searching on and off for days; late,but still subscribed
I used a 25k pot instead of 2 resistors...trigger wire hooked to the center terminal of the pot. Worked the same and found I had an intermittent problem. Seems like either some gooey stuff had leaked out of the thing indicating a problem. Buying a new or used sensor next but Im sure this is why my volvo wont start anymore. Seemed like it was running good then would run rough then get better....then run worse....then run ok.....then low power....then ok......finally wouldnt start any more. Code reader said P001...camshaft position over advanced..So i figured Id pull the sensor out and your test shows intermittent problem....sometimes it works...sometimes it dont....and in cold weather it wouldnt even start. Thanks for this video !!!!
Honda Hornet 919 owners are very happy, thanks! Speed sensors go bad all the time. $150!!!
best demo on this subject!!
Awesome video. The intermittent bad one is exactly what my cam and crank sensors are doing. As it reaches temp it dies randomly
Good job. Easy to understand. I Was just missing some of the basics you filled in the blanks. Thanks.
first class video thank you for sharing these examples
Superb. Explained well using schematic and components with bench type setup.👌
most clear video on cam sensor bench testing. Thanks you. I just have a question. with the low resistance pin pair, which would be the GND and which will be the +5V?
great video. in process of troubleshooting my 1991 Olds Toronado. Crank, no start problem.
have fuel pressure, injectors are firing, voltage to the ignition module, but no spark. Going to use what i learned from this vid to look at it tommorrow. Thanks!
I didn’t even get as far as needing any diodes, when I measured the resistance I got it across all 3 pins in an ever increasing value!
Was yours bad ? I'm testing 1 atm I'm nit amazing but general knowledge so so. My readings are well above the 5-12 showing over 200
I have a sensor off of a Suzuki ATV and the manufacturer maintenance manual says the hall effect speed sensor can fluctuate from 0-6v or 6-0v when a suitable ferrous metal object is placed in front of the sensor if it's working correctly. So when "unactivated" it read 6v or 0v.
Great demo, great idea using the paper with the resistors on it.
Are aftermarket crank sensor's always trouble? I couldn't afford Mopar for my Jeep XJ and bought Standard Motor Products CPS instead. No problems so far - but worried it'll crap out as lots of the forums say only buy OE.
fixed my Olds today, bad Crank Sensor. Thanks for the vid.
Great video but I feel you left something out in your paper demo. Do you need to apply 12v to the sensor to make it actuate. Sorry if I missed something. Thx.
Thanks for this video. I couldn't find any information anywhere that was similar to my problem. Mine is also "locking" back and forth between gnd and 11v.
This was pretty much the same reason why I made this video. Glad I can be of service.
Definitely. I hate just throwing parts at cars without properly diagnosing the exact part and ensuring it is in fact working, or not working as it should. Picked up the cam sensor today and she's running like a champ now.
Is that a wire in between bridging the positive and ground together that u have the yellow conne tor on?
Cool these sensors are used in many electronics thanks for good video
You said to poke around and find resistance between two of the three pins. I did that.
The two on the outside showed resistance.
Now which one you said is the ground because my ohmmeter didn't tell me.
I don't know how yours did. I like to buy your meter. Can you tell me it's make and model. I like that kind of ohmmeter.
Thanks.
what an excellent upload! subbed
Hall effect type crank sensor which vehicle
???
Very informative video full of contents no brain blowing exctra talks.
Now how about a hall effect sensor without a low reference? I have a dual hall-effect (two sensors with a shared magnet) which is a four wire. It does not have a 5v reference. How can I bench test this sensor?
great video, i got a question, why you give 5.5v and 12v at the same time to the sensor? if we give only 12 to the sensor, and detect the voltage between signal and GND, can we get the correct signal voltage like 4.8+ and 0.8-? other words: in your model, the multimeter reads the voltage of sensor and your lower resistor in paralelle, is that right?
Test may show if a sensor is dead, but still need an oscilloscope to determine if signal is clean or noisy garbage. Air gap tolerance is far too sensitive to replicate on a bench.
cool video. but why do you use the resistor?
Great video 👍
Is the pull up type changes the voltage from 5v to 12v ?
WONDERFUL PRESENTATION ,EXELLENT
How about if a crankshaft sensor reads 8V on the CKP sensor and Car battery is at 11.9V ? What should I do? Car is 2006 Honda Accord Euro CL9
My multimeter is auto ranged. If i hold it to M ohms i get not reading. In auto i get about 1 K ohms.
Is that an indicator of the sensor being bad?
Fantastic video, thank you! If the sensor is good and the car is still throwing a no signal code, would that likely be the wiring harness to the sensor?
From someone on the other side of your experience, best answer would be one that doesn't answer your question. In your scenario, you're going to have to continue checking upstream from your sensor. That's right, start checking your wiring visually and for continuance ( continuity check the wire and test it against any possible ground around it.) And then test where it ends. On and on and on. Eventually, you will hit a fault. Don't worry you'll learn like I did.
all of Hall effect types can test like this? And which car sensor do you test.?
Hi... Thanks for the video... If it was a pull up sensor the resistance value will appear in-between 5v & signal wire ? Or between ground & signal ?
CAN YOU ANSWER IF YOU LEFT THE RESISTOR OUT ON YOUR SIMULATED ECU, WHAT READINGS WOULD YOU GET? I TESTED A KNOWN GOOD ONE GAVE GOOD WAVE FORM BUT NOW I CAN NOT. PERHAPS I RUINED THE SENSOR?
My Nissan automatic car when you drive doesnt exceed 100 speed, even if you press the gas pedal to the bottom. Can this be faulty on speed sensors? ? Because the transmission fluid is ok and is its required level
perfect video ! Thanks a lot ! Saved me a lot of work. There's not much information about these sensors.
I'm working on a standalone ECU for M40's :p
Do I connect battery 12v directly to power pin on sensor? Or do I need to convert the 12v to 5 v via resistors? How many resistors does I need ?
If I use a 9volts battery an just the wire an sensor with no resistor if I bench testing it,plus do I have to drain the battery down to 5volts to perform this test as how I not using resistors????
thank you , can you explain other sensors by this way?
Why are my readings well over 200? It's set to ohms /resistance . ? Thanks no 5-12 volts
where did you buy the power supply???
what is signal? the 5 volt reference?
My crankshaft sensor measured is 11 megaohm ,is normal so high value ?
When bike reaches 50kmph speed how can I activate a buzzer
You can make a decent breadboard with wood and nails for the circuit . now to find a power supply...
Great video first of all he r I’m a little confused on the set up can I use my standard car battery hook up say speaker wire or leads in that pos for pos beg for neg and than if I add a wire betten those to connecting positive and negative from the battery with the wire than be 5.5 v ? So than I can test the other lead in the sensor ?
Or do I need additional components and I’m missing something
Or is wiring jump wires connecting post and neg to each other from massically looping the batter the way wrong thing to do and I’m miss reading this and it will end in failure ?
wrx sti you need two resistors, he has drawn them in on the drawing of the fake ecu. They’re the squiggly lines marked 5.6K ohm or similar. I know this is years later but maybe this helps
If we got short circuit in ground and power in these sensor, can ECU be short and defective?
what a great informative video good luck
what if there is no reading on the ohm test no matter what pair of pins i probe across
Great video, can I use a 6v battery charger at minimum output?
Probably not. It's not a constant source of voltage and amperage, like a battery. Besides, why would you want 6 instead of 12 volts?
Mine has no resistance at all. I touch all three with ohm's and move around to each and get no readings at all.
Thank you bro, I put a beer very much :)
Please show how to check for bad coil pack of Hyundai i20??
It was good but I needed to hear it
I don't understand at minute 2.00, why you connect the power cord to the yellow (signal) instead to the Red 12Volts side before passing the resistor?? Thanks.
Because that 5V signal is what ECU reads. 12V is just to power the sensor. You could just use 12V and 5V power supplies, instead of voltage divider.
Hematiitti my ECU reads 9 volts instead of 5 volts, is that mean that there's a problem with my ECU. Thanks
You can use the phone charger without using the battery, in which 5 volts thanks good job 👍👍👍👍
Hello, i have a question i am new at doing this how can I use my phone charger, i read the label it says the output it's 5volts at 1.2A, can you please break it down for me, thanks a lot.
@@LuisMartinez-fr9gq cut the cable of your charger u founde 4 wire so the red and black can give u 5 volt red is + and black is -
Brother thank you for replying, i have a feeling that you can help me to do this test the right way, i really need help setting up, i havea bad reputation car Hyundai Santa Fe GL 2.4 engine, that is been give me problems i had spend lots of money just replacing parts but sometimes it's not the part, i want to ask you, have you try this way of testing before, do you think you have time to write me the steps you used. Man thanks in advance i sincerely appreciate. I just hope I get to learn so i can test this components before buying another one, crank angle sensor 3 wires.
What if when trying to find the ground and signal wires testing using ohms I'm not getting any numbers. Does that also mean the sensor is bad?
samuel stephens I have same problem. Nothing happens... did you solved it?
Can do test on mass air flow sensor please?
if your want you could type in what you want to say
Very good job
I seem to be having faulty supply or ground to my sensor. Would it be too bold to bypass these connections from the wire by connecting 12v directly to battery and ground to car body and leave the signal wire connected? :D
was thinking the same thing
I asked around and got advice not to. It's not always as simple cause the ECU might control the voltage as well and bypassing that with constant voltage might do something unexpected or maybe mess the ECU. Or maybe nobody's dared try it yet :D. Well, I guess I'll check my wiring first.
Hi all! To my knowledge most engines use two types of Crankshaft sensors. 1. Inductive (magnetic) which are with one or two pins on the socket and which are capable of producing an electrical impulse without being supplied. 2. Those of hall-effect type that have 3 or 4 pins on the socket and that generate a digital pulse (square wave) provided they are supplied with a specific electrical current. Regardless of the type of Crankshaft sensor when measuring directly on the sensor with the multimeter, any type of good (not flawed) Crankshaft sensor must have a resistance of X ohms? I ask for your help in this problem because I am facing the following situation. My Crankshaft sensor no longer functional. I removed it from the engine and measured it with the digital multimeter directly on the pins. No resistance. I thought it was burnt (defective) and I bought an identical original one. When I received the sensor, before mounting it I tried to check it. Same thing. It has no resistance whatever the configuration of the measured pins. 1 with 2, 1 with 3, 3 with 1, etc. Nothing, no resistance in ohms, kohmi, although this sensor is new..
My question is: Regardless of the type of sensor crankshaft as long as it is operational (good) when directly measuring it with the multimeter must it have a certain value? My sensor type is a Mitsubishi ME203180 and as I reported above. Neither the new nor the old multimeter measurements indicate anything. Obviously the scale of the multimeter is selected correctly. Is it possible to be a perfectly operational sensor and not indicate any resistance when measuring with the multimeter?
Thank you in advance!
DC Volts?
very nice.......for education..thank you
Sir Auto ke makal digram bna kr btay plz
Thank you!
how can i knew the signal from the ground ??
Better understand for me to handle the engine with related sensors
Is it Mega ohms or milli-ohms?
Kilo ohms
What is the wattage of the resistors
Hi, i built same instalation to check my sensors but have two difrences. 1.when I try to measure the resistance of sensor itself I can get no reading on any of the pins so cannot determine which is which.2. when I connect the sensor to the instalation voltage from 5.6 jumps to 11 volt. its e46 m54b25 Type sensors.
This is probably a bit late, first answer, I believe that the pins on the sensor are polarity sensitive, so switching the test leads around may or may not solve that issue. Second answer, it could be that the crank sensors on e46 could be a pull up type sensor instead of a pull down type since the voltage went up to the battery voltage (note i am not very familiar with the e46 set up). You can also test the wire harness connector to see what type of sensor the engine uses. I believe that on the e46 the yellow wire is the signal and the black wire is power and the third wire is ground. First, you can use a multimeter to measure the signal wire(yellow wire) when the car is on the "ON" position or when the engine is cranking depending on the DME, if there is a reference voltage 5 volts or above, it is most likely to be a pull down design, on the other hand if the voltage reads 0 it could be that it uses a pull up design. Well, hopefully this helps.
Yes. The hall sensor is a semiconductor, so the polarity certainly matters.
Make sure to check both directions. Also, the resistance might be too high to be measured by a resistometer with a weak battery. It can take a bit of voltage to get current flowing through a doped semiconductor.
These are designed with high resistance to keep the current low. Paradoxically, the hall effect is most powerful at low currents. (Try the hall effect with copper if you don't believe me.)
Hello, I have a 3-wire speed sensor and I can't tell which wire is which. I've connected a multimeter across it in every possible way (with both polarities) and have infinite resistance between every pair of wires, but I know the sensor works because I took it out of a moped with a working speedometer. I tried wiring it up with the voltage divider and multimeter to measure voltage change when I bring a large metal object near it like in your video, and couldn't get it to react to anything. Any ideas what I might have done wrong?
The leads on your meter are going bad or your meter has gone bad.
Hello my zmr ignition is direct house can find defect
I think you do a mistake you sho a picture sensor using 12 volt but you feeding sensor by 5 volt. most new car sensor using five volt not 12 volt And also you should not use a voltage divider to test a sensor. You should use a good regulated 5 volt power supply for sansor testing
it is a excellent video
if r.p.m not move when you start car = crankshaft sensor is damage . result the engine not work
I did it man :)
I read infinite ohms between any of the pins on the connector of mys bosch sensor...Is that some indication of a bad sensor ? Is there a way you can find the pinout for a bosch 0232103006 sensor Sir ? Will greatly appreciate. it goes into my Ferrari F355
It does look like your sensor is a hall effect type sensor, but I could be wrong, even so, depending on the sensor, the resistance between the signal pin and or the voltage reference pin to the ground pin should be around the 5 to 7 Mega ohms due to its circuit design and the best way I can see to get a pin out is with a use of a service manual (that's if you can access one) or a wire diagram to trace each wire to each individual pins.
1999 Ferrari F355 is my car . What internal circuit creates such high resistance ? Any idea ? It cant be a coil with such high resistance ...can it be ?
I believe that the internal operational amplifier is the reason why there is such a high resistance and if you know anything about op amps, an op amp has a high input resistance/ impedance to prevent loading effects on the input circuit. Hope this helps to explain this reason.
@@therandommech9099 hey, great video thanks. Question, Can probing the wrong pins together with multi meter, damage the sensor?
thanks 🙏
Thank you.
Great vid thanks friend
My nissan n16 reading 10volts when metal is detect and down to 0 volts when metal is detached.is it ok? The video says 5volts
The voltage will vary depending on the actual sensor, unless you mean you recreated this fake ecu, and its reading 10 volts. you would need more resistance
Very simple
Very useful
The resistance must be between the positive line and the signal I think you are wrong ?
It's so nice Sensor
Thank you
Good number1
Good job
How exletor sering vacation. So
मेरे गाड़ी का स्पीड़ सेंसर बार बार खराब हो रहा है क्या कारण हो सकता है बताने की कष्ट करें ।
great video
good.thanks body
Awesome! Subbed...
I ain’t reading all of that.
From thailand
Hi dear how are u
got me fucked time to make distubtor smash computor as i did love merc i should of stoped keeped me mk3 zephyer
Nice