Good tip on the cast aluminum versus the rolled - I'd never known that. But then I have LOTs and LOTs to learn. Thanks sir. We likely will never meet in person here - but hope one day to meet you in the that big machine shop in the sky. Soo many projects and there will finally be enough time for them... LOL.
Up early to get ready to volunteer at the food bank and I see you already beat me up this morning mr. Pete. It’s nice that after 40 plus years I can take my time in retirement. 1st cup of Mcafe coffee. Good job 👍 tubalcain.
That cutaway was really neat, also, really good at illustrating that you don't need a lot of mass in these wheels to make a good one. Some companies out there make them excessively heavy.
Agree the cross-section was great, but on a sander, as long as you can get it machined true and balanced, you want all the mass you can get in the rotating parts. More mass means greater inertia and a sander which runs at a very stable speed even when you really push it. The heavier wheels act as flywheels to even-out any speed variations. The heavier, the better.
I was about 12 years old when my folks went to the Ford museum so my memory of it is a little rusty. There was a cutaway of a N9 it looked like they drove it through a bandsaw end to end and spread open in a wedge shape. It was a work of of art. I can not find a picture of it.
I always learn something sir. I am building a 2 x 72 right now & have cast my own drive & tracking wheels. I think I'll go back and do a little more lathe work on 'em. After watching I can effeminately see where a vibration would be generated. Thanks for the instruction. Carry-On
Nice castings, greatly shaped and without voids.... ;) That Starrett vial you graciously sent me is installed and calibrated, and, even the video is out... Thanks again. Still need time to try Steve's boring bar, it's coming... lol
Great work. I see a couple of things you need. One I made one for my Grizzly is a simple fixture to allow using a drill to drive the compound with your cordless drill. Sure saves your hands. The other is I have machined dedicated boring bar blocks for my bars like your Solid Rock one. That way I adjust the stick out as needed. Keep up the videos
Hi Mr. Pete, thanks for making this video. A 2 X 72 belt grinder has been on my to do list forever, and I’d like to cast the wheels myself, too. I figure it would be good practice for when I eventually get around to building a Gingery shaper. Now if only there were more hours in the day and a little less earning a living to fill them with!
Lyle, Please show more of your machining, even if you've already shown a technique before. You are most likely geting new viewers that have not seen everything. And please explain special tooling like the broaches for the same reason. Thank you for another interesting video & video series. I hope that you and your family have a very happy Thanksgiving!
Another great informative video. Just to add a little tip if you don't have casting ability I was making an English wheel and using metal casters as the pinch wheels and you can get from any hardware store and these castings look alot like them so i was thinking of trying them out as an alternative. they are basically this same shape and a little lathe work might bring them to a similar condition.. they even have somewhat of a crown to them. although the center shafts might not be as large so maybe smaller diameter shaft and bearings could still work.
In the bowling business on a Brunswick machine they have what they call a ball accelerator and it has two 4in wheels both of those wheels are crowned for the same purpose and the frame and shaft that it is mounted to also has a justments for horizontal and vertical belt travel so you can true the belt to the pulley so you can make the shaft for a true 90-degree alignment
@@mrpete222 yes sir in the Brunswick world they are called pinsetter machines,, and in the AMF world they are called pinspotter machines...I have been a mechanic on both for 40 years on and off I'm a machinist Tool & Die maker, mechanic, fabricator and all around do boy... The reason I got into the bowling business is there was a pretty little redhead that worked in the back and I just thought it was the neatest thing at 10 years old to see a girl with a wrench in her hand.... Ha ha
I barely know what.broaching is, only thanks to AvE (who mentioned you as one of his inspirations, and rightfully so!). So far can't find any local place that sells them. If you could make a video just about broach tools like you did with hole saws that shows how to use broaching tools, and what brands are good ones. That would be very helpful to many more than me, I'm sure. I'm making a belt sander, just because you're teaching me how. Keep up the great work!
You could've run that mandrel between centres. Also, I notice you used my suggestion, of drawing a centre line on the circumference, to guide you when crowning the wheels.
Great series! I would definitely like to make one of your belt sanders and can do all the maching and fabrication but can't do the castings. Would you consider doing up the rough pulley castings and selling them as a set? Yes I would expect you to price them accordingly so to pay for all your time, material, R&D and profit. What do you think? Thanks, Ed k. Cleve. Oh.
Mr pete...you told a brief story about you and jan taking a trip down the mississippi as kids...I ( i think lots of other people would too) would love to hear the whole story...that sounds like a awesome adventure.mr pete i have a question on boring bar accuracy..you said you didnt have a large enough reamer for the one wheel so you used a boring bar...is the boring bar more accurate than a drill bit(all things relative)?
I would like to do that, but all of the 200 slides are lost or thrown away. Almost no documentation of the trip anymore. And I don't think most people would care
@@mrpete222 your to modest mr pete...well someday if i make it down to northern illinois i will buy you a cup of coffee listening to that trip then a bottle of coke LOL...
I noticed that the broach guide was much shorter than the opening in the hub. I killed a broach this summer in a very similar operation (but in steel). I guess aluminum is much more forgiving? I had to make a longer guide and fortunately I had another broach of the same size!
To ensure that the wheels run true, wouldn't you want to use a depth micrometer to measure (both sides are equal) after putting a true face on the part, while its on the mandrel? Great video.
I switched from brake cleaner to starting fluid. It's cheaper, less noxious, and actually removes oils and stuff better. 10,000 wore out diesel engine can't be wrong.
Nice casting cutaway, NO VOIDS! This video is gonna be boring!! LOL Which cup of morning coffee, has to be #1 as you are not in hyper-drive yet. LOL Now you know we like to see everything, even If we've seen it a hundred times. Don't want the wheel too smooth, the belt might slip. Is the finish caused by a soft aluminum alloy. - So true on the over sixty magnifier use!! - Wonder if anyone supplies cast wheels? This video was not long enough. Twenty-five minutes flies by when watching you. 'Til next time.
Once the pulley is mounted on the arbor and this is in the 3-jaw chuck you noted that you "dialed it in to about half-a thou". I could see this with a 4-jaw but how to do this with a 3-jaw?
Hello Lyle. Was there a specific reason you didn't bore shoulders for the bearings to keep their spacing and sit straight and not possibly cocked? With soft aluminium i am always careful especially if it gets warm from continuous use and allowing the bearings to walk away from their original position
Nice Job, enjoyed both parts so far. I have a question. Could you have used the Plastic patterns to make the Belt sander and avoided making the castings? Of course, you would machine the plastic parts. Love the vids.
Steve Barton gave me one of those bars at the meet and greet that Adam Booth, Steve Barton , Brian Block and myself did in Louisville. Very well made boring bar I think👍. Thanks for the video Lyle.
As usual, I enjoyed the video very much, Mr. Pete. Could you elaborate on that, "Vile black stuff," that you used to hold the lead on with? What's it called? I may have a use for some.
I'm not sure exactly what it is. A man you gave it to me. He said his son is an electrician and they used it for insulation. But I'm not sure the exact application. I thought he called it black jack?
An alternative if CA glue is not available: Whenever close fitting and controlled interference are factors and dissimilar materials are employed one can make good use of thermal expansion properties to install bearings in aluminum, bond aluminum hub bores to steel spuds, etc. (Did I phrase that pompously or what?) Ten minutes to heat the aluminum with a propane torch and no glue residues to hassle with. The math is simple. Steel expands roughly 6.5 millionths inch per inch, per degree F. Aluminum pans roughly 10 millionths, etc. The differential is roughly 3.5 millionths. Figure the mandrel to have 0.001" interference with the hub bore. You will need to add removal clearence come time to extract the mandrel. Call that 0.001". Desired interference plus removal clearance divided by the quantity (bore size times expansion in millionths) equals temperature above ambient for transition fit. 0.002 / (1 3/8 x 0.0000035) = roughly 400 F temp increase over ambient. Add that to the shop ambient temperature for the oven setting. These things are predictable and calculable to considerable refinement. Parts assembly by thermal expansion is a time saving and low risk technique. I rarely pressed a bearing on a shaft since I was an apprentice and Bert Thompson showed me the trick of thermal expansion and taught me the math. Heat the bearing to 300 degrees F and it slips freely onto its room temperature seat and shoulders with a click. Within seconds the inner race cools to shrink securely to its bearing seat. Back in the day we used filament trouble lights as heaters for bearings up to 308 (fair sized). Most trouble light bulbs in the bench section had grease rings baked on them. Won't work on today's CFL and LED bulbs; progress isn't always smooth. For years, I installed bearings heated on a thrift store West Bend fondue pot from which I'd sawed the walls of the bowl. The heated surface was like a 6'" dia electrically heated griddle. I could control the temperature with the calibrated dial and it was portable to be handy to the work site. Quick and safe too; easy to clean - and it doubled as a beverage warmer and snack heater. Set a 50 cal ammo box on it to make an oven for heating pizza or leftovers. Back to spud mounting that aluminum pulley, I proposed thermal expansion as an alternative to superglue. There are often many alternatives to accomplishing a particular task. The trick is to choose the simplest, least disruptive, lowest risk, minimum cost, available resource alternative to complete the task be it mandrel turn a pulley crown or put a man on the moon.
@@mrpete222 Yes you did, several times by my count. I should have looked them up and linked to them. Sorry. Lazy, I guess. Certainly forgetful. Work location and holding by existing features is a large part of our trade. Naturally, that leads to a story. I recall having to reference a lathe part from a cast inside diameter. After a couple of false starts, I made a spud and ring nut that captured a piece of rubber hose in compression. Slip the part to the spud shoulder, tighten the nut to compress the hose. The hose volume stays constant so it expands radically to grip the part. Not perfectly but good enough for concentricity and light cuts. The advantage was you could machine all features in a single set up and the grip deadened chatter and squeal, a huge PITA if chucked on the end.
To get rid of the segmentation of the print (which comes from the fact that the 3D model wasn't generated with a true circle, rather a polygon) all your 3D fellow has to do is increase the number of faces the "circle" has, usually, it's 30 or something, ramping it up to 100 ~ 150 faces will make a good enough approximation. The 3D printer can print these things perfectly, trust me, i have the same printer and have done it.
@@aserta I've seen that vapor smoothing operation done before. Seems to work well but a waste of time for something that's to be machined or non aesthetic.
I'm just about to something similar with some small wheels, I was planning on using some glue out a hot glue gun used for paintless dent removal, you spray some solvent on it when finished to unstick the glue.
The way I was thinking was having a larger diameter on the arbour, so you're gluing the wheel face to face rather than inside the bore if that makes sense, might not be as strong as loctite, but should be OK for small ally wheels.
But this way of mounting the bearings is exacty the way you would expect from Chinese or Italian crap. Never-ever a machine "Made in Germany" would be build this way by professional machinist. And of course I know: these vids are made for hobbyists.
They were glowing. I think you have heard me mention the radium girls. They were the ones that painted the luminous dials on the clocks. There is a monumental them in a nearby city. It was very sad
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
4:58 to 5:30 is probably the best illustration of the difference between the accuracy of tailstock drilling and boring bar finishing I have seen yet!
Hi Lyle,
That cutaway shows a very good casting pour. No voids visible.
Yes thanks
Good tip on the cast aluminum versus the rolled - I'd never known that. But then I have LOTs and LOTs to learn. Thanks sir.
We likely will never meet in person here - but hope one day to meet you in the that big machine shop in the sky.
Soo many projects and there will finally be enough time for them... LOL.
👍🙏
Up early to get ready to volunteer at the food bank and I see you already beat me up this morning mr. Pete. It’s nice that after 40 plus years I can take my time in retirement. 1st cup of Mcafe coffee. Good job 👍 tubalcain.
I'm drinking a McDonald's coffee right now
That cutaway was really neat, also, really good at illustrating that you don't need a lot of mass in these wheels to make a good one. Some companies out there make them excessively heavy.
Thank you, I thought some of you would like the cross-section
Agree the cross-section was great, but on a sander, as long as you can get it machined true and balanced, you want all the mass you can get in the rotating parts. More mass means greater inertia and a sander which runs at a very stable speed even when you really push it. The heavier wheels act as flywheels to even-out any speed variations. The heavier, the better.
It is great waking up to a new video of yours. This build is one I will do for sure!
Thank you for watching, yes build one
Never stop making amazing videos!!!!!
Thank you, I will not
I was about 12 years old when my folks went to the Ford museum so my memory of it is a little rusty. There was a cutaway of a N9 it looked like they drove it through a bandsaw end to end and spread open in a wedge shape. It was a work of of art. I can not find a picture of it.
The Edutainment is most enjoyed and appreciated. Thank you.
That black electrical stuff we called mastic. Keeps moisture out of barrel splices. Not quite so messy on cold days.
I always learn something sir. I am building a 2 x 72 right now & have cast my own drive & tracking wheels. I think I'll go back and do a little more lathe work on 'em. After watching I can effeminately see where a vibration would be generated. Thanks for the instruction. Carry-On
Thanks for watching. Yes get the wheels well balanced
Mr. Pete , You Are The Best !!!! No Doubt About It>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Thank you very much
Thanks for the shout out Mr. Pete. We hope that bar serves you well.
Steve
Thanks Dave. The boring bar work great. As shown several times in that video
Nice castings, greatly shaped and without voids.... ;)
That Starrett vial you graciously sent me is installed and calibrated, and, even the video is out... Thanks again.
Still need time to try Steve's boring bar, it's coming... lol
Thank you Pierre. I am so glad it worked for you and was happy to send it to you. I did watch the video and enjoyed it
G’day Mr Pete, great series so far. This sander is definitely on my list to do. Cheers Peter
Yes thanks
I like your cross sections too, that's way your a great shop teacher.
Thanks
So much craftsmanship!
Thanks
Great work. I see a couple of things you need. One I made one for my Grizzly is a simple fixture to allow using a drill to drive the compound with your cordless drill. Sure saves your hands. The other is I have machined dedicated boring bar blocks for my bars like your Solid Rock one. That way I adjust the stick out as needed. Keep up the videos
Thank you, those are good ideas
Hi Mr. Pete, thanks for making this video. A 2 X 72 belt grinder has been on my to do list forever, and I’d like to cast the wheels myself, too. I figure it would be good practice for when I eventually get around to building a Gingery shaper. Now if only there were more hours in the day and a little less earning a living to fill them with!
Thank you, if you can make this one, the one with a longer belt would be just as easy
Lyle, Please show more of your machining, even if you've already shown a technique before. You are most likely geting new viewers that have not seen everything. And please explain special tooling like the broaches for the same reason. Thank you for another interesting video & video series. I hope that you and your family have a very happy Thanksgiving!
Thanks for watching. Yes, sometimes I am hesitant to show the same thing over and over. But I do know there are always new viewers.
Very nicely done and explained. I may have to cast and build one myself. I have always been interested in casting.
Thanks for the video, I found that a better finish for aluminum can be attained by speeding up the surface feet per minute.
Thanks
Another great informative video. Just to add a little tip if you don't have casting ability I was making an English wheel and using metal casters as the pinch wheels and you can get from any hardware store and these castings look alot like them so i was thinking of trying them out as an alternative. they are basically this same shape and a little lathe work might bring them to a similar condition.. they even have somewhat of a crown to them. although the center shafts might not be as large so maybe smaller diameter shaft and bearings could still work.
Yes, that is a possible solution. But the hub is way too small to install a bearing
@@mrpete222 Yeah I kinda thought that would be a problem. Maybe not for the motor side but definitely for the top one..
Gotta get my foundry built.
Good Job, Mr. Pete.
Thanks
Always a great video! Its a joy to watch you work your magic!.
Great video and the wheels are just right. As Arnold said "ahl be baak".
lol
Very nice job on the wheels.
Thanks
In the bowling business on a Brunswick machine they have what they call a ball accelerator and it has two 4in wheels both of those wheels are crowned for the same purpose and the frame and shaft that it is mounted to also has a justments for horizontal and vertical belt travel so you can true the belt to the pulley so you can make the shaft for a true 90-degree alignment
I assume you mean a pin setting up machine. That's interesting. Lots of moving parts
@@mrpete222 yes sir in the Brunswick world they are called pinsetter machines,, and in the AMF world they are called pinspotter machines...I have been a mechanic on both for 40 years on and off I'm a machinist Tool & Die maker, mechanic, fabricator and all around do boy... The reason I got into the bowling business is there was a pretty little redhead that worked in the back and I just thought it was the neatest thing at 10 years old to see a girl with a wrench in her hand.... Ha ha
That's funny
I barely know what.broaching is, only thanks to AvE (who mentioned you as one of his inspirations, and rightfully so!). So far can't find any local place that sells them. If you could make a video just about broach tools like you did with hole saws that shows how to use broaching tools, and what brands are good ones. That would be very helpful to many more than me, I'm sure. I'm making a belt sander, just because you're teaching me how. Keep up the great work!
Thanks
You could've run that mandrel between centres.
Also, I notice you used my suggestion, of drawing a centre line on the circumference, to guide you when crowning the wheels.
Yes, thanks that worked out just fine
Great series! I would definitely like to make one of your belt sanders and can do all the maching and fabrication but can't do the castings. Would you consider doing up the rough pulley castings and selling them as a set? Yes I would expect you to price them accordingly so to pay for all your time, material, R&D and profit. What do you think? Thanks, Ed k. Cleve. Oh.
Sorry, no can-do. It is quite a chore to make castings. In fact it is drudgery and I am 75 years old
Enjoyed the video, Mr. Pete.
Thanks
Thanks for the video really enjoyed you’re doing an excellent job my friend catch you on the next one your friend G-man
Thanks
Mr pete...you told a brief story about you and jan taking a trip down the mississippi as kids...I ( i think lots of other people would too) would love to hear the whole story...that sounds like a awesome adventure.mr pete i have a question on boring bar accuracy..you said you didnt have a large enough reamer for the one wheel so you used a boring bar...is the boring bar more accurate than a drill bit(all things relative)?
I would like to do that, but all of the 200 slides are lost or thrown away. Almost no documentation of the trip anymore. And I don't think most people would care
@@mrpete222 your to modest mr pete...well someday if i make it down to northern illinois i will buy you a cup of coffee listening to that trip then a bottle of coke LOL...
I noticed that the broach guide was much shorter than the opening in the hub. I killed a broach this summer in a very similar operation (but in steel). I guess aluminum is much more forgiving? I had to make a longer guide and fortunately I had another broach of the same size!
I had considered making a longer guide. Or counterbore in that section of the pulley. But I figure the aluminum was soft enough to forgive
Great vid like the cutaways shows a great casting.. 👍🏻👍🏻
To ensure that the wheels run true, wouldn't you want to use a depth micrometer to measure (both sides are equal) after putting a true face on the part, while its on the mandrel? Great video.
It's probably not that critical. As long as it's within 1/32 inch
Another Smash Hit!! The MR.Pete 222 @ The Sander Project! this episode: "At The Lathe"
Thank you, but not many people are watching these videos. I feel I am wasting my time.
@@mrpete222 I don't think you are wasting your time. I find your videos extremely interesting.
I switched from brake cleaner to starting fluid. It's cheaper, less noxious, and actually removes oils and stuff better. 10,000 wore out diesel engine can't be wrong.
Be careful with that starting fluid is so very flammable it's not well suited for an indoor shop. Brake cleaner is available in non-flamable formulas.
@@christurley391 Also in non-chlorinated if using for welding prep.
Thank you, but the whole house would smell
If you breath too much starting fluid, it will make your babies be born naked.
Nice casting cutaway, NO VOIDS! This video is gonna be boring!! LOL Which cup of morning coffee, has to be #1 as you are not in hyper-drive yet. LOL Now you know we like to see everything, even If we've seen it a hundred times. Don't want the wheel too smooth, the belt might slip. Is the finish caused by a soft aluminum alloy. - So true on the over sixty magnifier use!! - Wonder if anyone supplies cast wheels? This video was not long enough. Twenty-five minutes flies by when watching you. 'Til next time.
Thank you for watering. I am drinking a cup of McDonald's right now, mighty tasty. Yes, I worried about Bill slip if it was too smooth
Have you ever had your part fly of an arbor because you got greedy or accidentally took a little too big of a cut?
Excellent results. Thanks, Mr. Pete! :-)
Thank you very much
Is there a vendor of wheel castings like these?
Once the pulley is mounted on the arbor and this is in the 3-jaw chuck you noted that you "dialed it in to about half-a thou". I could see this with a 4-jaw but how to do this with a 3-jaw?
You cannot dial it in with a three jaw chuck
Hello Lyle. Was there a specific reason you didn't bore shoulders for the bearings to keep their spacing and sit straight and not possibly cocked? With soft aluminium i am always careful especially if it gets warm from continuous use and allowing the bearings to walk away from their original position
It would be very hard to maintain concentricity if I board from either side.
Mr. Lyle, excellent work as always ... greetings from brazil
Celso Ari
Thanks
Great video again!
Nice Job, enjoyed both parts so far. I have a question. Could you have used the Plastic patterns to make the Belt sander and avoided making the castings? Of course, you would machine the plastic parts. Love the vids.
Absolutely not. They are hollow and not durable
Steve Barton gave me one of those bars at the meet and greet that Adam Booth, Steve Barton , Brian Block and myself did in Louisville. Very well made boring bar I think👍. Thanks for the video Lyle.
Boy you are up early. Yes they are very nice Boring bars
@@mrpete222 5 am 😃 The morning is the best part of the day for me.
second wheel much better finish. i did find inserts specifically for AL, high neg rake, but then i had to buy boring bar to fit.
Yes, but I just use whatever inserts I have
As usual, I enjoyed the video very much, Mr. Pete. Could you elaborate on that, "Vile black stuff," that you used to hold the lead on with? What's it called? I may have a use for some.
I'm not sure exactly what it is. A man you gave it to me. He said his son is an electrician and they used it for insulation. But I'm not sure the exact application. I thought he called it black jack?
I love me some cross sections too!
Great Video Mr Pete! I cannot find Solid Rock Machine Shops website to buy one of their boring bars. Do you know what their website is?
The website is not up and running yet. Here is Steve's email address.pilgrim@nibchapel.org
Mr. Pete.
I am interested to know why you crowned the wheels.
We previously established that the Kalamazoo machine is not crowned ?
I do not remember saying that the Kalamazoo wheels were not ground
An alternative if CA glue is not available:
Whenever close fitting and controlled interference are factors and dissimilar materials are employed one can make good use of thermal expansion properties to install bearings in aluminum, bond aluminum hub bores to steel spuds, etc. (Did I phrase that pompously or what?) Ten minutes to heat the aluminum with a propane torch and no glue residues to hassle with.
The math is simple. Steel expands roughly 6.5 millionths inch per inch, per degree F. Aluminum pans roughly 10 millionths, etc. The differential is roughly 3.5 millionths. Figure the mandrel to have 0.001" interference with the hub bore. You will need to add removal clearence come time to extract the mandrel. Call that 0.001". Desired interference plus removal clearance divided by the quantity (bore size times expansion in millionths) equals temperature above ambient for transition fit. 0.002 / (1 3/8 x 0.0000035) = roughly 400 F temp increase over ambient. Add that to the shop ambient temperature for the oven setting.
These things are predictable and calculable to considerable refinement. Parts assembly by thermal expansion is a time saving and low risk technique. I rarely pressed a bearing on a shaft since I was an apprentice and Bert Thompson showed me the trick of thermal expansion and taught me the math. Heat the bearing to 300 degrees F and it slips freely onto its room temperature seat and shoulders with a click. Within seconds the inner race cools to shrink securely to its bearing seat.
Back in the day we used filament trouble lights as heaters for bearings up to 308 (fair sized). Most trouble light bulbs in the bench section had grease rings baked on them. Won't work on today's CFL and LED bulbs; progress isn't always smooth.
For years, I installed bearings heated on a thrift store West Bend fondue pot from which I'd sawed the walls of the bowl. The heated surface was like a 6'" dia electrically heated griddle. I could control the temperature with the calibrated dial and it was portable to be handy to the work site. Quick and safe too; easy to clean - and it doubled as a beverage warmer and snack heater. Set a 50 cal ammo box on it to make an oven for heating pizza or leftovers.
Back to spud mounting that aluminum pulley, I proposed thermal expansion as an alternative to superglue. There are often many alternatives to accomplishing a particular task. The trick is to choose the simplest, least disruptive, lowest risk, minimum cost, available resource alternative to complete the task be it mandrel turn a pulley crown or put a man on the moon.
Thank you, that's a good explanation. Actually, I have installed bearings by shrinking. Countless times. It is shown in several of my videos
@@mrpete222 Yes you did, several times by my count. I should have looked them up and linked to them. Sorry. Lazy, I guess. Certainly forgetful.
Work location and holding by existing features is a large part of our trade.
Naturally, that leads to a story. I recall having to reference a lathe part from a cast inside diameter. After a couple of false starts, I made a spud and ring nut that captured a piece of rubber hose in compression. Slip the part to the spud shoulder, tighten the nut to compress the hose. The hose volume stays constant so it expands radically to grip the part. Not perfectly but good enough for concentricity and light cuts. The advantage was you could machine all features in a single set up and the grip deadened chatter and squeal, a huge PITA if chucked on the end.
To get rid of the segmentation of the print (which comes from the fact that the 3D model wasn't generated with a true circle, rather a polygon) all your 3D fellow has to do is increase the number of faces the "circle" has, usually, it's 30 or something, ramping it up to 100 ~ 150 faces will make a good enough approximation. The 3D printer can print these things perfectly, trust me, i have the same printer and have done it.
Also, naphtha cleans that stuff easy, but as usual, you don't want to breathe it. So not everyone's favorite.
@@aserta I've seen that vapor smoothing operation done before. Seems to work well but a waste of time for something that's to be machined or non aesthetic.
You could probably lightly machine the pattern? It did leave am interesting pattern finish on the bottom of the web.
Another good video.
I appreciate it.
Thanks!
👍👍
WD-40 makes an excellent cutting fluid for aluminum.
Yes
Thanks for the great information, keep it up.
Thanks Divco man, LOL
Great video! So informative.
Thanks
Nice job.
I'm just about to something similar with some small wheels, I was planning on using some glue out a hot glue gun used for paintless dent removal, you spray some solvent on it when finished to unstick the glue.
Sounds like a good idea
The way I was thinking was having a larger diameter on the arbour, so you're gluing the wheel face to face rather than inside the bore if that makes sense, might not be as strong as loctite, but should be OK for small ally wheels.
Considering what it is for a shoulder for the bearing doesn't seem necessary.
Yes
Another great video, thanks!
Thanks
Do you not need a spacer between the bearings?
That thought did cross my mind too.
Not unless you are tightening an axle through the inner races. If it just rides on an axle, it shouldn't matter.
I had considered a spacer, but since I use Loctite, I did not see the need
What was your bearing fit?
.001
which power plant. I used to live down in your neck of the woods.
Lasalle nuclear station
Why not leave a shoulder to press the bearings to?
That would add some complications to machining both bores true to each other. Every time you change position in the chuck you risk misalignment.
But this way of mounting the bearings is exacty the way you would expect from Chinese or Italian crap. Never-ever a machine "Made in Germany" would be build this way by professional machinist.
And of course I know: these vids are made for hobbyists.
Chris answer those perfectly.
If you really wanted to, you could press in a short piece of tubing
THANK YOU...for sharing.
😁
Mr Pete, was that the lighting or were your hands glowing after removing the lead? LOL
They were glowing. I think you have heard me mention the radium girls. They were the ones that painted the luminous dials on the clocks. There is a monumental them in a nearby city. It was very sad
Thank you sir.
Thanks
Selling the casting ?
No
Thanks for sharing sir..
Thanks
😊👍
Yes
😎👍👍
Great vid like the cutaways shows a great casting.. 👍🏻👍🏻
I'm glad you enjoyed the cutaway
I enjoy all of your vids your sharing of knowledge and humor is fantastic keep up the great work. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻