Hi Mr Pete, that reminded me of one of my first jobs right out of high school. I got a job in a union foundry and my job was to empty the molds after the poor and shovel the sand back into the sifter so the guy that mixed the sand and water had clean sand to use. After 3 months of that I was ready for collage and did not want to ever see a shovel again. Thanks for the hot memory.
Mr Pete i really appriciate you showing these videos. I've been wanting to build a belt sander for quit some time now. And finally be able to build one with your videos. Ounce my workshop is up and running. Your like an encylopedia a massive wealth of knowledge. And a great teacher. Cant thank you enough. Just love your videos.
Very interesting when you discuss the pros and cons of different methods. This is when I learn a lot. Not many youtube machinists give us that insight. Thank you. Keep it up.
Another great project, MrPete! I have been thinking about making one of these. Your foundry work reminded me of my shop class in college when I made a pattern and green sand casting... 46 years ago. Lucky you to have the setup for casting. This was very interesting and entertaining.
Me too ! I`d bid.. I really need a belt sander. I`m new to machining and it would make a great addition to my shop..I`m about to order his classes also..
That different diameters avoid harmonics and let the glue-joint of the belt wander over the circumference instead of beating the same point over and over.
The glue joint will wander over the circumference anyway as long as the circumference of the wheels are not an evenly divisible amount of the belt length. His wheel sizes won’t divide into a 48” belt length so that point doesn’t matter.
Hermann Straub You may be 100% correct about the harmonics though since most do run a smaller idler wheel, although there could be any number of reasons why including belt speed being optimized to the motor rpm by using a larger drive wheel but I have no proof or knowledge either way.
Thank you Sir for this video. You say you are too verbose but to me it is knowledge being shared. If we could all take time to listen to our elders we could avoid so many mistakes. Too many self entitled you know what out there. Thank you again. God bless.
the Baldor is what's called a C flange motor they normally bolt directly to a gearbox, and you are right a very nice motor, being an electrician for 43 yrs I have installed many and in very harsh locations and they perform well. great video.
I am so glad you are making this video, it is a great foundry/machining video and a tool that we all need. I love your video's, you are a fantastic shop teacher! I will be making one and following this build for sure!
Wonderful video Mr. Petes -- I'm looking forward to building a foundry some day. I'll likely be building the sander first though -- Thinking I may just built the wheels for it from some real hard old growth maple I have lying around - turning them down to suit. My uses are hobbyist anyway so not like I'm using it every week or even month. And if they start wearing, then I turn some aluminum ones. Likely would make a metal interface hub with large keys into the wood, and has an interior small key for the motor of choice. Anyway you grind it looks like you have a good design that will be enjoyable to build. Thanks.
3:15 (and (9:00)-- If I were to guess, the different size wheels is intended to reduce vibration/harmonics by insuring that they are not running at nearly the same speed. Same size wheels will run closely enough to (rarely exactly) the same speed, and go in and out of synch, leading to really annoying vibration and harmonics.
Another great project to follow along. When I finally get my shop completed, one of the first things I’m going to do is set up a foundry to cast parts for projects.
I like this a lot and I appreciate your thinking that has gone into it. I was noticing that electric motors in the right range are kind of expensive, but I also remember seeing that smaller used washing machine are nearly free. I wonder if a guy could just use two washing machine motors (or maybe three for a 2"x72") and have a motor at each pulley instead of just a bearings.
You are my hero, i've been waiting for the right kind of motivation to make one of these myself! If you're making one, i can't possibly have any more excuses, this one will be perfect.
I'm glad the hub with the aluminum pipe came out as good as it did. Were it not as thick as it was, the pipe would have caused the hub to crack during solidification due to the tubes inability to collapse under compression. Needless to say it wouldn't be a good idea to use pipes/tubes as cores very often. The good news is that when you added the pipe/tube to the mold you introduced a chill to the hub that forced the directional solidification to go from the center of the hub to the outside skin of the hub instead of going from the bottom of the hub to the top of the hub as it normally solidifies. Something to remember when you plan future castings.
Once again, GREAT VIDEO! I'm on the edge of my chair, couldn't even pause the video to refill my coffee, I'm going to do this project next. I don't have a foundry, so I'm studying on sources for wheels. Thanks again, I can hardly wait for the next part of the series!
Thanks for all the great videos you have inspired me to buy some machine equipment and start turning metal into chips your basic Shop videos all the way up through lathe and Mill videos is where I learned most of it thank you again if you read this I have also an interesting tool made by Sterrett that nobody can identify it belongs to my father who has passed several years ago
You are correct, I wil probably not make a sander. But the design and fabrication process can be used on any project, and that is VERY useful information. Thanks, as always!
I've built two 2" x 42" belt grinders with a similar direct drive design. One with a 3450 Rpm motor and 6" drive pulley that gives me ~5200 feet per minute belt speed for metal work, and the second using a 1725 Rpm motor for ~2600 feet per minute. I used aluminum pulleys on the first, and Nylon plastic pulleys on the second. Both work excellent. I would attach a couple photos, but I don't think RUclips provides an option for that. Looking forward to watching you build yours!
Really an electric motor! I figured you might have rodent drive? no torque but it does turn. (insert grimace here). Another masterful teaching performance and plenty of delightful information Thank You Mr.Peterson!!!
Homeshop genius using the rammed sand tube as a core. I think it was Luckygen or some other foundry video that used a steel rod lampblacked with candle or torch soot for a core form as well, no problems extracting it from the casting either. ☺
Mr. Pete, I'm following along on this one and will build my own after the holidays as(one of many lol) my winter project. I just sourced a good 8 amp 3450rpm capacitor start motor wit a 1/2" shaft. I'll probably buy a wheel kit on e-bay and fabricate the frame with some square tubing and angle iron (bedframe) I have in my 'inventory'. Thanks fer takin' us along. ps- I tried the engine turning on my drill press with some lapping compound-it came out great! Thanks again and Happy Thanksgiving!
@@mrpete222 if you search belt grinder wheel kits on ebay a bunch of choices show up, some are suspect and some others are made in the good old US of A
Mr pete you told a story about you and Jan and your trip down the mighty missasip...I would love to watch a video on more of that story...i bet i am not the only one
love this build. i'm actually designing a belt sander...im going to use a treadmill motor. ill post vids of the build. love your channel so much. excited to see this progress.
Nice core trick, I believe sandrammer was of the opinion that aerating the sand got to be a real problem when you used a pneumatic rammer as it tended to cause a tighter pack.
I have made two belt grinders ( 2x72 and 1x42) and found the small diameter wheels cause the bearings to overheat, so I popped the seals off cleaned the grease out with solvent, and gave them a couple drops of oil instead. Heating problem solved.
Wonderful. Thanks for sharing. I have planned on making a belt sander - a small one with whayever I have in stock... it will be most interesting to see your project. It is always interesting to see your projects, btw.
Could the aluminum tubing be pressed out instead of drilling/boring? Great way to make a core! It worked perfect!! You know if you moved down here to TN next to me you could cast most of the year! I could come help you move! But you would find no tool auctions here. LOL 'Til next time!
I am a moulder to trade and i love your videos i wish i could live nere to you as you are a wealth of knowledge , i sometimes say to my self why is he doing it that way well all in all your are a legend what a cleaver man .i mean in the foundry
The Kalamazoo 2 inch wide sanders go for about $400 to $450 new now. Only the 1 inch version remains in the $300 Range. BTW I live about 25 miles from the Factory. It seems expensive for what it is but in fairness to the Kalamazoo sander the Baldor motors they use are very expensive but good and probably make up 2/3 of the cost.
Thank you, I figured that the cost of the motor would be more than half of the cost of the machine. Of course they get them OEM, but they still paid plenty for them
heh you and my father-inlaw would have lots to talk about. He is a retired machinist in Idaho. He gets some work requests from Coleman to make parts for older models on an as needed basis.
Let me give you a tip. From experience, you want to mount your switch on the left side of the box. On top tends to collect grit and metal, and they will short out if you use them hard all day long. unless you use a covered switch that is.
With those Dayton type 2"x48" belt sanders, could you just make the upright post longer to be able to run 2"x60" or even 2"x72" belts? It would just add 6" to the height for each belt length increase.
Ive seen vertical 2x60 and 2x72 sanders, I made a 2x72 knife grinder style, I love it using skateboard wheels for now but after 2 years of use no issues
I agree. I have a 2"x60"/ 2"x72" vertical belt/grinder that I made myself. It can use either size belt but requires you to move the upper wheel to another notch for the longer belts. It is my own design. However, the upright on mine is a much more stout(6" square thick wall tubing) material. I was simply wondering if this particular "Dayton" design could be modded to go to the longer belts. The longer the belt the greater the sanding/grinding surface area.
You mention a 4 and 5 inch wheel. What are some of the other dimensions? What is the angle of the crown? How does one determine proper crowned surfaces to achieve acceptable tracking?
Total guess, but I'm thinking the reason for two different wheel sizes is to reduce vibration. If the wheels are the same size, they'll turn at the same speed and if they vibrate, they will reinforce each other. If they are different sizes, then the RPM of the two wheels will be different and they shouldn't be able to resonate with each other. BTW, don't hide your mistakes-every mistake has something to teach. I love hearing you discuss the options and the reasons for choosing the ones that you pursue.
@@mrpete222 I am planning on 2x72. I have not finished any videos that are not already published. I am having a lot of problems with the split bushing fit to the drive wheel. You would be amazed at how hard it is to find any useful information on the taper angle. I will probably just abandon the idea of a taper bushing since it is taking so much time.
Mr. Pete. Does the Dayton have flat wheels ? The big one looks like it is made from two pressings back to back. That would be difficult to make crowned.
I have The Kalamazoo belt grinder you show. I like it just fine except the tool rest is too small and flimsy. If you have ideas for how to improve the tool rest, do mention it in your series. Love the videos! Best regards, Frank
Mr Pete, we used to have "Graphite Slip Cloth" between the metal plate and sanding belt, it reduces friction in back of the belt. Have you ever tried it?
Great video, project, and foundry information! Thank you Mr. Pete! Boring?? You should know us better than that by now! ;o) There's a reason there's a collective "Yeeeaaaa" heard around the world when a new Tubalcain video is released.
Burying your mistakes? I’ve noticed a few along the way! If I buried all my mistakes I’d have a huge cemetery for projects. It usually takes me a few attempts to get to a finished project.
Hi Mr Pete, that reminded me of one of my first jobs right out of high school. I got a job in a union foundry and my job was to empty the molds after the poor and shovel the sand back into the sifter so the guy that mixed the sand and water had clean sand to use. After 3 months of that I was ready for collage and did not want to ever see a shovel again. Thanks for the hot memory.
I had the same bad experience, only, it was at Del Montei. Canning peaches.
Mr Pete i really appriciate you showing these videos. I've been wanting to build a belt sander for quit some time now. And finally be able to build one with your videos. Ounce my workshop is up and running. Your like an encylopedia a massive wealth of knowledge. And a great teacher. Cant thank you enough. Just love your videos.
Thank you very much for watching
Very interesting when you discuss the pros and cons of different methods. This is when I learn a lot. Not many youtube machinists give us that insight. Thank you. Keep it up.
Thanks
Very pleased that you decided to build a sander. Looking forward to the series.
Thanks
Another great project, MrPete! I have been thinking about making one of these. Your foundry work reminded me of my shop class in college when I made a pattern and green sand casting... 46 years ago. Lucky you to have the setup for casting. This was very interesting and entertaining.
Very informative, don't ever worry about repeating yourself because wisdom can never be repeated enough, thanks for that you do!.
MrPete, you say you dont need another sander... then put it up for auction ! Let your Subs have a chance of owning one of your creations.
lol
I’d bid on it
Me too ! I`d bid.. I really need a belt sander. I`m new to machining and it would make a great addition to my shop..I`m about to order his classes also..
So, does that make us fanbois of Professor Pete?? Oh, man...
@@stxrynn Well, he is good ! ...................................................and I`v already said to much..lol
Never gets boring watching you, thank you for the video.
Thanks
That different diameters avoid harmonics and let the glue-joint of the belt wander over the circumference instead of beating the same point over and over.
Thanks
The glue joint will wander over the circumference anyway as long as the circumference of the wheels are not an evenly divisible amount of the belt length. His wheel sizes won’t divide into a 48” belt length so that point doesn’t matter.
@@Crewsy You are right. I didnt think as far.
Hermann Straub
You may be 100% correct about the harmonics though since most do run a smaller idler wheel, although there could be any number of reasons why including belt speed being optimized to the motor rpm by using a larger drive wheel but I have no proof or knowledge either way.
That's why i love the internet everyone can learn anything because people take the time to share their knowledge. Thanks to you both.
Thank you Sir for this video. You say you are too verbose but to me it is knowledge being shared. If we could all take time to listen to our elders we could avoid so many mistakes. Too many self entitled you know what out there. Thank you again. God bless.
Thank you very much for the kind words
the Baldor is what's called a C flange motor they normally bolt directly to a gearbox, and you are right a very nice motor, being an electrician for 43 yrs I have installed many and in very harsh locations and they perform well. great video.
Thanks
I am so glad you are making this video, it is a great foundry/machining video and a tool that we all need. I love your video's, you are a fantastic shop teacher! I will be making one and following this build for sure!
Thank you, I'm glad you like the project
Wonderful video Mr. Petes -- I'm looking forward to building a foundry some day. I'll likely be building the sander first though -- Thinking I may just built the wheels for it from some real hard old growth maple I have lying around - turning them down to suit. My uses are hobbyist anyway so not like I'm using it every week or even month. And if they start wearing, then I turn some aluminum ones. Likely would make a metal interface hub with large keys into the wood, and has an interior small key for the motor of choice.
Anyway you grind it looks like you have a good design that will be enjoyable to build. Thanks.
3:15 (and (9:00)-- If I were to guess, the different size wheels is intended to reduce vibration/harmonics by insuring that they are not running at nearly the same speed. Same size wheels will run closely enough to (rarely exactly) the same speed, and go in and out of synch, leading to really annoying vibration and harmonics.
Thanks
We never have failures its a learning curve love ya Pete
lol
Another great project to follow along. When I finally get my shop completed, one of the first things I’m going to do is set up a foundry to cast parts for projects.
Yes
I like this a lot and I appreciate your thinking that has gone into it. I was noticing that electric motors in the right range are kind of expensive, but I also remember seeing that smaller used washing machine are nearly free. I wonder if a guy could just use two washing machine motors (or maybe three for a 2"x72") and have a motor at each pulley instead of just a bearings.
Multiple motors would be a nightmare
I haven't started the video yet but i couldn't wait to say i'm excited! been pondering the project myself for awhile!
😁
You are my hero, i've been waiting for the right kind of motivation to make one of these myself! If you're making one, i can't possibly have any more excuses, this one will be perfect.
Thank you very much
I'm glad the hub with the aluminum pipe came out as good as it did. Were it not as thick as it was, the pipe would have caused the hub to crack during solidification due to the tubes inability to collapse under compression. Needless to say it wouldn't be a good idea to use pipes/tubes as cores very often. The good news is that when you added the pipe/tube to the mold you introduced a chill to the hub that forced the directional solidification to go from the center of the hub to the outside skin of the hub instead of going from the bottom of the hub to the top of the hub as it normally solidifies. Something to remember when you plan future castings.
Thank you for the technical information. Yes it turned out fine. I have done this many times and it always seems to work
you library of videos has inspire me to start my own shop at home. thanks
That's wonderful
Once again, GREAT VIDEO! I'm on the edge of my chair, couldn't even pause the video to refill my coffee, I'm going to do this project next. I don't have a foundry, so I'm studying on sources for wheels. Thanks again, I can hardly wait for the next part of the series!
👍
Great castings. Going to work very well. Mass is good, makes for a smooth machine.
Thanks, that's the project I was working on when you were here. I finally finished it. There are seven videos in the series
This will be a great series, looking forward to it.
Thanks
Thanks for all the great videos you have inspired me to buy some machine equipment and start turning metal into chips your basic Shop videos all the way up through lathe and Mill videos is where I learned most of it thank you again if you read this I have also an interesting tool made by Sterrett that nobody can identify it belongs to my father who has passed several years ago
Thank you, send me a picture of that tool
@@mrpete222 I couldn't get a picture too upload but machine shop tip number 88 that is the tool thanks again for teaching
You are correct, I wil probably not make a sander. But the design and fabrication process can be used on any project, and that is VERY useful information.
Thanks, as always!
Thanks
I've built two 2" x 42" belt grinders with a similar direct drive design. One with a 3450 Rpm motor and 6" drive pulley that gives me ~5200 feet per minute belt speed for metal work, and the second using a 1725 Rpm motor for ~2600 feet per minute. I used aluminum pulleys on the first, and Nylon plastic pulleys on the second. Both work excellent. I would attach a couple photos, but I don't think RUclips provides an option for that. Looking forward to watching you build yours!
Thank you, I think there are endless possibilities in designing and building one of these
Lovely castings Mr Pete. Cheers
Thanks
Very interesting, as usual. I have never understood casting. Thanks to you, I am starting to.
Yes
He's got a lot of great videos on the subject and a Foundry course is available with a lot of valuable information.
Always entertaining and enlightening to watch you cast. Thank you.
Thanks
I didn't know I needed / wanted one these. Now, I gotta make one... Thanks Professor Pete!!
Yes
Really an electric motor! I figured you might have rodent drive? no torque but it does turn. (insert grimace here). Another masterful teaching performance and plenty of delightful information Thank You Mr.Peterson!!!
Thank you
Homeshop genius using the rammed sand tube as a core. I think it was Luckygen or some other foundry video that used a steel rod lampblacked with candle or torch soot for a core form as well, no problems extracting it from the casting either. ☺
Thanks
Prototype looks good to me. Thanks for sharing lyle👍
Thanks
I'm really liking the use of your pointer, or as professor Farnsworth called it, the "finglonger".
lol
Wonderful i been thinking of building one i love to see this build Thanks Mrpete
Thanks
Mr. Pete, I'm following along on this one and will build my own after the holidays as(one of many lol) my winter project. I just sourced a good 8 amp 3450rpm capacitor start motor wit a 1/2" shaft. I'll probably buy a wheel kit on e-bay and fabricate the frame with some square tubing and angle iron (bedframe) I have in my 'inventory'. Thanks fer takin' us along. ps- I tried the engine turning on my drill press with some lapping compound-it came out great! Thanks again and Happy Thanksgiving!
Yes, do it. Who sells those wheel kits on eBay? I did not know such a thing was available
@@mrpete222 if you search belt grinder wheel kits on ebay a bunch of choices show up, some are suspect and some others are made in the good old US of A
Mr pete you told a story about you and Jan and your trip down the mighty missasip...I would love to watch a video on more of that story...i bet i am not the only one
I wish I still had the pictures from the trip. I had hundreds of the slides, and cannot find them. They must've been thrown out
I like the belt drive idea! it would keep the vibration out of the motor and save the bearings a little bit.
Yes
Looking forward to this series.. Thanks for sharing sir..
Thanks
Yes sounds like a winner, a genuine Tubalcan belt sander
Thanks
love this build. i'm actually designing a belt sander...im going to use a treadmill motor. ill post vids of the build. love your channel so much. excited to see this progress.
Thanks
You make great videos, Mr Pete!
Thanks
Nice core trick, I believe sandrammer was of the opinion that aerating the sand got to be a real problem when you used a pneumatic rammer as it tended to cause a tighter pack.
Yes
Isn't that a foundry mans proverb?
If you don't learn from your mistakes you're doomed to remelt them.
Thanks for the video.
lol
awesome foundry!
Thanks
very nice build ,waiting to see the rest ,think i might have to make one too.
Yes
I have made two belt grinders ( 2x72 and 1x42) and found the small diameter wheels cause the bearings to overheat, so I popped the seals
off cleaned the grease out with solvent, and gave them a couple drops of oil instead. Heating problem solved.
Good idea
Hello mr.pete, don't worry about talking to much, I really enjoy watching your casting vids and the information. You share is great . 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks
I agree with that comment. Mr Pete you have such knowledge of workshop things that there is always a good hint or tip every couple of minutes.
Wonderful. Thanks for sharing. I have planned on making a belt sander - a small one with whayever I have in stock... it will be most interesting to see your project. It is always interesting to see your projects, btw.
Thanks
Could the aluminum tubing be pressed out instead of drilling/boring? Great way to make a core! It worked perfect!! You know if you moved down here to TN next to me you could cast most of the year! I could come help you move! But you would find no tool auctions here. LOL 'Til next time!
Yes
I am a moulder to trade and i love your videos i wish i could live nere to you as you are a wealth of knowledge , i sometimes say to my self why is he doing it that way well all in all your are a legend what a cleaver man .i mean in the foundry
You are an excellent craftsman, how about a video of outtakes, fails and bloopers?
There are none and never will be
@@mrpete222 lol
@@mrpete222 Dang straight, Mr Pete is the "rifleman" of Machine Shop video!
Mr. Pete Thank you for sharing. I'm looking forward to the next episode.
greetings from Brazil
Celso Ari
Thanks
Thank you for sharing the wheel files!
Yes
The Kalamazoo 2 inch wide sanders go for about $400 to $450 new now. Only the 1 inch version remains in the $300 Range. BTW I live about 25 miles from the Factory. It seems expensive for what it is but in fairness to the Kalamazoo sander the Baldor motors they use are very expensive but good and probably make up 2/3 of the cost.
Thank you, I figured that the cost of the motor would be more than half of the cost of the machine. Of course they get them OEM, but they still paid plenty for them
heh you and my father-inlaw would have lots to talk about. He is a retired machinist in Idaho. He gets some work requests from Coleman to make parts for older models on an as needed basis.
He must be a real neat man
boy you are good at this
👍
Another great on from the great one
Thanks
Nice job on that machine
Thanks
Let me give you a tip. From experience, you want to mount your switch on the left side of the box. On top tends to collect grit and metal, and they will short out if you use them hard all day long. unless you use a covered switch that is.
Awesome project
Thanks
I just came by to see the casting.
Thanks
I wonder if it would be possible to have a table on the upper wheel (in the vertical position) as well, i guess i'll see in the next parts.
Anything is possible
very good video, I spent a couple years in a foundry that cast aluminum, I was just a helper, I remember the smell lol
Yes, I like the smell
With those Dayton type 2"x48" belt sanders, could you just make the upright post longer to be able to run 2"x60" or even 2"x72" belts? It would just add 6" to the height for each belt length increase.
Might be a bit wobbly
Ive seen vertical 2x60 and 2x72 sanders, I made a 2x72 knife grinder style, I love it using skateboard wheels for now but after 2 years of use no issues
I agree. I have a 2"x60"/ 2"x72" vertical belt/grinder that I made myself. It can use either size belt but requires you to move the upper wheel to another notch for the longer belts. It is my own design. However, the upright on mine is a much more stout(6" square thick wall tubing) material. I was simply wondering if this particular "Dayton" design could be modded to go to the longer belts. The longer the belt the greater the sanding/grinding surface area.
What a interesting project, I am looking forward to following the series, Will I build one? Maybe not but I love all of your videos. Regards, Ted.
Thank you very much
Hey MrPete, great series on the belt sander! Would love to build a sander my self, is it be possible to buy some raw wheel castings from you?
You mention a 4 and 5 inch wheel. What are some of the other dimensions? What is the angle of the crown? How does one determine proper crowned surfaces to achieve acceptable tracking?
hang in there. He'll get to all of that. In fact there are some previous vids where he addresses crowning and other operations on the pulleys.
Yes you are right
Total guess, but I'm thinking the reason for two different wheel sizes is to reduce vibration. If the wheels are the same size, they'll turn at the same speed and if they vibrate, they will reinforce each other. If they are different sizes, then the RPM of the two wheels will be different and they shouldn't be able to resonate with each other.
BTW, don't hide your mistakes-every mistake has something to teach. I love hearing you discuss the options and the reasons for choosing the ones that you pursue.
Good point
Very nice castings. You can get some really cheap bearings from ebay.
Hi Harold. Yes that's where I got them
What size belt is your sander going to use? I just finished the video series. There are seven parts. They will be published over the next one month
@@mrpete222 I am planning on 2x72. I have not finished any videos that are not already published. I am having a lot of problems with the split bushing fit to the drive wheel. You would be amazed at how hard it is to find any useful information on the taper angle. I will probably just abandon the idea of a taper bushing since it is taking so much time.
@@AmateurRedneckWorkshop Now that you revealed this and, worse I caught you, you're not quitting,....!!!! Grin...
@@pierresgarage2687 just changing horses.
Mr. Pete.
Does the Dayton have flat wheels ?
The big one looks like it is made from two pressings back to back.
That would be difficult to make crowned.
Yes, they are stamped steel. Two pieces spot welded together
motor nomenclature, that is a C face with mounting foot. NEMA 56C lookup NEMA Motor Frames for exact specs
Thanks
I have The Kalamazoo belt grinder you show. I like it just fine except the tool rest is too small and flimsy. If you have ideas for how to improve the tool rest, do mention it in your series.
Love the videos!
Best regards,
Frank
I found the tool Rest adequate. But it would be very easy to make a slightly larger or heavier one out of angle iron or plate
Thanks
Nice castings. Thank you.
Thanks
Mr Pete, we used to have "Graphite Slip Cloth" between the metal plate and sanding belt, it reduces friction in back of the belt. Have you ever tried it?
Never heard of
Well Mr. Pete, since you already have 2 Kalamazoos, perhaps, this one should be a Timbuktu? Ok, I'll go back and take my seat, now.
lol
A project! I need this. Thanks.
Yes
Is there any reason someone could not use a 3" diameter set of wheels (besides the SFM)?
Couldn't that sleeve be just pressed out with a bushing driver ?
I doubt it, because it is not tapered
Wow, first two days in a row. Wish I could sleep. LOL
lol
Thanks for sharing. Love your videos keep it up
Thanks
How about if I want to use lineshaft power?
Well don’t Lyle thank you, I enjoyed that..regards Frank
Thanks
The caffeinated Tubalcain seems much happier.
He was, and for that matter is.
Very interesting. Thanks 🙏
Thanks
Let's hear it for the additive manufacturing process
Yes
Good video.
Thanks
Mr pete is that plumbers putty for your pointers tip? OBVIOUSLY i get easily distracted ...how would you love me in the classroom LOL
Ouch
why not make a tell tale core
I use a kalamazoo all day long at work btw.
lol
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Thanks
BLOOPER REEL TIME!
lol
Great video, project, and foundry information! Thank you Mr. Pete!
Boring?? You should know us better than that by now! ;o) There's a reason there's a collective "Yeeeaaaa" heard around the world when a new Tubalcain video is released.
Thank you very much
That's why I woke up at 2 am. For this video.
I believe the new price for a Kalamazoo 2 x 48 belt sander is $460 plus tax and shipping.
Wow
Hello Mr Pete. 2:48 can you clean your camera lens. please
I built a 2x72 the 3400 rpm motor seamed fast but the 1740 is slow ? now I half to look up your vfd. vid again .
Yes
you still get gas from the core and you need to vent it
thank you sir
Thanks
Burying your mistakes? I’ve noticed a few along the way! If I buried all my mistakes I’d have a huge cemetery for projects. It usually takes me a few attempts to get to a finished project.
lol