LAND ROVER SWIVEL REPLACEMENT (PART 2 of 2) REFITTING with Rob & Vic
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- Опубликовано: 10 фев 2025
- asimplyfab.life/ Part 1 (removal): • LAND ROVER SWIVEL REPL...
Replacing the swivel housing and stub axle assembly. Reassembly took far longer than disassembly ... so perhaps it's not simply a case of "reverse the procedure" as instructed in the Haynes manual? View the parts list and both videos at asimplyfab.lif...
#landrover #landrovermaintenance #swivelreplacement
A year later and we're finally getting around to doing the right hand swivel ... and using this video throughout the whole process. A huge thanks to Rob Stewart for sharing his knowledge and expertise with us!
Brilliant video.... Such a patient guy demonstrating his years of experience on the very over engineered LR. 👌
Put those races in the freezer and stick the swivel housing in the direct sunlight. Makes life easier. Thanks for making this video!
Very thorough, informative and all in a language with NO jargon or acronyms.
+John Smith Thanks, we try, and Rob is the most knowledgeable guy we know on the subject. Have you tacled this project yet on your Def/Disco/Rangie?
Tours and Tales.com
Yes, on my 1988 90 I recently replaced the very worn original swivels for nice new teflon coated ones. I used a small, 'Salter' spring balance bought for 30p at a junk market. No wheel wobble and a nice new MOT now!
+John Smith - liking the spring balance (or fish scales (pun unintended) as known in dutch)...
I could listen to these two explain anything about the Defender. Excellent! I almost feel confident to renovate my swivels myself now...
What a fantastic video. Just did both my swivel housing seals last weekend but instead of the scary task of taking apart the whole hub, i just undid the bolts attaching the whole assembly to the axle housing and pulled it all out with the shafts going to the diff. Ended up only replacing the seals and retainers...wish i saw this video before, you guys made the whole thing seem so easy
Thanks guys for giving me the confidence to take the job on myself!! Really great tutoial.
Very happy to hear it helped! Rob is very knowledgable on all things LR
I don't even own a Landy and I found this interesting! Thanks for sharing
Very good i need to watch all of these so i can work on my perentie great teacher.
+Alan Hughes Merci. If there are any topics you'd like to see, let us know...
thank you for this excellent instructional video, changed my swivel bearings, seal etc using this video alone ( Haynes bible for torque settings ), I would just like to add though, an essential piece of kit is worthy of a mention here, if your landy is similar to mine in age (22 years old ), and your swivel bearings hasn't been changed for a good few years I would without a doubt add a butane blow torch to your arsenal, as I did test one of the bolts holding the swivel ball to the axle ( you know the ones 12 point variant ) and just tried to release it to just before it damaged the bolt, it wouldn't budge, bang a few minutes of your blow torch on it, and to be honest it really did make the job a piece of cake, in fact, the hardest part of this job was reinserting the track rod end back into the hub, as I have steering rack under body protection which limits the amount of movement of the track rod to just a few centimetres in all directions, again thank you Rob, Victoria and not forgetting the camera man for an excellent video,
Carl
Proud owner of '94 Land Rover Defender 110 County Station Wagon 300TDi.
Thanks for adding this great tip! So glad you enjoyed the video and found it very useful
Great explanations and tips. Thanks ! Why not use soft punch or better still a drift to avoid damaging race?
Brilliant video. Thanks for putting in the effort in showing us.
👍 Thanks!😎
... you are quite correct on the swivel pre-load for a Discovery 1 and also the Range Rover Classic. Thanks for pointing that out.
First off.. Thank you SO much for this video.. I'm really glad i saw it before taking on the job myself. I have an Exmilitary (Norwegian Mil.) Land Rover Series 3. The Swivel Housing is leaking oil... on both wheels (constantly). So I need to do exactly what you've done here (I may as well do the whole job since I have to remove the swivel to replace the seal anyway).
I was hoping you, or Rob Stewart might have a list of the parts (gaskets, seals, bearings etc) needed in order to do the job. I really don't want to discover I'm a seal short midways through the project (I have to order the parts from England and its not exactly a one day deal).
If neither of you have one then I'll do it the hard way (haynes) and hope I don't overlook anything, but as I'm probably not the only person wondering, it would be really helpful if you could post a parts list along with this video (assuming you have one and its not too much trouble).
Either way, thank you for posting this excellent video :)
+john kjos This is the kit we used: www.paddockspares.com/da3167-swivel-kit-front-axle-to-ka930455.html Comes complete with everything you need. But I think it is best that Rob answers your question seeing as you have a Series. Glad you like the video
Really good video.
Don't forget that the holes in the circlip where the circlip pliers engauge are tapered. - there is only ONE way that the circlip will be correct - you have a 50% chance if you don't check and face the circlip the correct way. tiy will note there is a taper on the tips of the circlip pliers - this, and the taper in the two matching holes on the circlip allow the plires to grab and not slip on the circlip. It really becomes important when you come to remove the circlip ( easy peasy, or an absolute prick of a thing sliping off the pliers).
A first class tutorial video, based on expertise, much better than many I've seen on here which quite frankly have made me cringe!
landroversrs1 Thanks! We enjoyed making these. Sadly we have both moved to different countries and haven't had a chance to continue the series - he's a real guru on the subject...
Got to do this job and your vid explains it very well, thanks for posting!
Thanks - good luck, it's pretty straight forward (once you've done it five times). Just remember to put the brass spacer back in the hub ;-) Took a lap of Corsica to figure out that the halfshaft was moving 10mm in and out on every turn!
Buen video informativo saludos desde Puebla, Puebla . México voy a desarmar para revisar la junta homocinética rueda delantera izquierda creo que el daño esta ahí.
nice video made it look very easy with basic tools good stuff
your video helped me out thank you for all your help keep them coming like to see more again thanks for all your help
I did mine 2 years ago (on one side). My pre-load was set to 1.3 kgs (a number I found on a forum somewhere), That was wrong! I now get a wheel wobble at 65 mph... Oh dear. Time to take it all apart again. 4kgs sounds about right (thanks for the video - very helpful!)
what did he change to adjust the pre load from 5kg to 4kg? didnt understand it chin? im not native speaker.
Philip Gebhardt there are shims (spacers) that go between the pin that is inserted in the hub. This decreases the load on the bearings. I hope you understand. If not please let me know!
should be 1.16 - 1.46 2.5 - 3.2lb ,,,, And not 8lb as in the vid that is wrong . which i have found out after doing mine
@@gerrybongohe said it was 4 lbs not 8lbs.
very helpful, did the job using you're vid as reference points please do some more vids on other jobs
Thanks for your kind words. We'd love to make more videos, but have a "technical diifficulty" in that Marcel & Victoria have since moved to the South of France, and Rob has moved to the UK. Next time we're together, it's very likely there'll be time for another couple of videos ;-)
Great video. Now back to British 4x4 for the smaller bearings. saving me a lot of time and money!!
Thanks for the comments Daniel, the re-grease should have been there but due to technical difficulties (production assistant failure) we skipped that bit. It's a good point about the RFD10000 single use hub nut, however as the front axles on this particular 90 are actually Disco I we decided to keep everything original, also for the DIY mechanic reusing the Hub Nuts and Washer is a lot more economical than buying a complete new nut each time.
Another great video!
I like the way you give Victoria time to try and figure out her mistakes before jumping in and putting her right! Good job.
To torque the bolts on the swivel, the ones that Rob says you can't properly get to, you put a spanner one the bolt (open end) and a torque wrench on the other end (ring end) and then just torque up. I seem to remember a 13 or 14mm spanner is needed. I got this tip from a mechanic and saw it working. Hope this helps.
But you cant an open ended spanner wont fit . You need a 12 sided ring spanner , thats all that you can get on .
very good tutorial as an ex landrover employee myself could not fault it,lets have more please
Brilliant, a complete masterclass! So helpful.
I really enjoyed this video. I didn't know that about handing the swivel seal retainer. Very informative. If you can do one about the Series 2 clutch release mechanism, that would be splendid ;-) Keep up the good work.
Thanks for your feedback, it means a huge amount to us that other people are benefiting from the videos ;-)
great video but all those good tips and using an old 2p split pin ?
You bet - when the stores are shut and you only have an afternoon - and this is your ride back home as well so it really needs to go back together 😅😂
🧐EXCELLENT EDUCATIONAL VIDEO !!!! Labor Intensive overhaul…. Were the Land Rover Defenders affordable to the average working class person in the “UK” ???
Cheers for the comment
Yes, the 'legacy' Defenders were pretty cheap in the UK. You could pick one up for a couple grand, but that was before the new one came out and values shot up, probably tripled.
Also used to be easy and cheap to fix yourself, but now parts are getting more expensive of course.
Labor intensive? Maybe through this video, yes'. I could do a swivel replacement in about an hour if I had my tools lined up and ready (if I didn't forget the spacer ring): ruclips.net/video/QAwCzCfTGPc/видео.html 😅😆
felicitaciones. Muy instructivo. Gracias
Lay the small hammer flat across the top of the race keep it level and twat it to get it started and keep fingers out of way.
Victoria : "Why is it shaking , like a maracca"
Mechanic " Because it's a Mexican rubber mallet "😂
I learnt a lot from this thank you
Happy to hear. Glad it helped! 👍
Never ever ever knock races in like this. Use an old socket or even better, the correct tool for the job.
Just testing it with a hammer is gonna cause damage.
Great video Very informative and thorough. Cheers
Is there a way to change the oil seal (LR Part FTC3276) that you mention at 5:28 without dismantling the hub? I have replaced the swivel seal by going through the back but noticed the seal isn't particularly tight on the axel and chances are grease/oil is being transferred between the swivel/axel. The grease in the axel was a grey/green colour which I assumed backed up this thought. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Well, the swivel need to come off the axle, of course. How to do this with the hub still attached? Not sure... (looks to be unwieldy) Perhaps one for Brittanica Restorations🤔🧐
Great video, really informative. I was wondering though, how do I set the correct amount of steering angle on the swivel so it bottoms out in the right place?
I don't have definitive information on this. I have wound the bolt in till the tyre just doesn't catch on the chassis on full lock (depends on the offset of the wheel you've got on there, of course). I have mounted 1" spacers and done the same on the 2015 Puma with zero issues on bearings or swivel after 100k km. Mind you, once again - as always with these vehicles - results may vary... (you can try Rob Stewart on Facebook but he has stepped out of the LR world and is doing photography)
@@ASimplyFabLife thanks👍
Hi great video made me confident in carrying out this repair which I have but my swivel still seems to be leaking is there anything I could of missed done every in the vid but can't explain why it's still leaking?
Hi. First thing that comes to mind is - did the parts come in a blue box? (This is hit-or-miss sometimes regarding quality). Then it depends on where it is leaking from? A couple fo thoughts... Can be a number of things. Maybe the oil seal is fitted backwards? The retaining ring is not seated/torqued tight enough? Is the paper gasket between the swivel and the axle not damaged?
Just oil on the top and bottom bearings, or do you grease them?
Would using a block of wood help put the race into the swivel?
use the long flat side of lets say that other hammer, place it on the race then tap with ur big hammer to get it started, that way you're hitting with equal force on each side, it wont bop out like it is when she's trying to get it in
Handy tip, thanks! Marcel has just done the right hand swivel and got those babies seated in no time. Victoria not amused. LOL.
Never ever strike two hammers together, you will get shards of steel off the face, use instead a large flat steel plate, or better still, pull the bearing in properly using a large bolt and spigoted washer after leaving the baring in the freezer overnight.
very good explanation huge thanks
Cheers, glad it was helpful 👍
Excellent, I want more tutorials like this, please. 5 STARS. Well done. Do you do DVD's?
Great video enjoyed part 1& 2 but who made the tea kettle boiled at 5-18
I thought you had to grease the top and bottom bearings before setting the preload rather than oil?
Hi there, brilliant video you did, but I must ask what kit did you use, what is Britpart/Genuine LR or??? Also have you had much trouble with the replacement parts since installation? Cheers!
We'd ordered the Britpart kit - much to the 'rolling of eyes' of the 'Guru'. It comes complete, except it had the wrong-size swivel-pins... So far (two years later) no leaks or wobbles. Besides that; there are plenty other Britparts on the vehicle (UJ's, light bulbs, clutch plates etc.) with no problem. As someone mentioned - if it wasn't for Britpart many Landies wouldn't be on the road right now... Good luck with it, it really isn't that hard after all...
What a fantastic tutorial. I wish you where my mechanic teaching me. A***
Wow, thanks for your comment!👍😀
I like the way she handles that shaft
The pre-load given is NOT correct at 4kg , it should be 1.16 - 1.46 kg in the offical landrover manual . So thanks mate , i built mine up at 3lb . Then watched this and thought i was wrong and re-shimmed to 8.8lbs to tight . So now have to go and strip back down and go back to where it was . NOT HAPPY
I have re-visited my swivels numerous times and dealt with 'death-wobble/shake enough to know I don't get it right first time - but enjoy the grease under the fingernails😉). Partof the Land Rover Experience.
Lost in translation I guess - 4 pounds then...
Golden rule - (as referred to in previous videos) always refer to the manual!
Even forgot to add the spacer in the hub once before setting off to Corsica for two weeks... Made it back and sorted it after much head-scratching.
Thanks for the comment and keep rolling
In my Land Rover workshop manual it states: The resistance, once the initial inertia has been overcome, should be 3,60 to 4.5Kg (8 to 10 Ibs).
Excellent Video, However, the LR Shop manual says that the Spring balance should be 1.18-1.48KG. This video says 4KG, Which should it be? Could it be that I am working on a Discovery 1?
The vid is wrong
Are there cars where they use two oil seals next to each other to gain lifetime? And why are the bearings so small for such big wheels in order for the wheels to get dangerous on the road? This component is not good enough in my opinion but please correct me if I'm thinking wrong.. :)
As far as I know, they all have one oil seal for the diff oil. And in my experience - for all their other faults - the one thing a Defender IS good for is the long-lasting wheel bearings (even with wheel spacers mounted) - unlike Land Cruisers, Patrols, Shoguns etc...
Fantastic, can I have a mechanic like him please
He certainly knows his stuff , and enjoys the subject. Very patient
Crows foot on a torque wrench works in tight spaces.
So if there’s a drain plug fill with oil, No drain plug, fill with grease right?
tesekkürler ustalar
bananas make good grease? Perhaps putting some milk and banans in the diff would make a great smoothie too?
Brilliant
Al jirar la dirección se escucha ruido, crujido rueda delantera izquierda al conducir
what did he change to adjust the pre load from 5kg to 4kg? didnt understand it chin? im not native speaker.
Philip Gebhardt
To go from 5kg to 4kg resistance you put in a thin extra shim this eases off pressure/preload on the bearing.
To tighten simply add shim(s).
Got a Defender too and it needs new seal and swivel bearings 👍🏽
Why they just use a socket that fitted the outer bearing race, and tap in the centre of that .... Simples !?
nice video thk.
love it
nice vid i thought it was 1.3 kg on gauge not 4kg
Nice video tutorial!!!
;)
This is useful but painful to watch. Why not just explain it all to camera as everyone else does, instead of instructing the girl who knows very little about vehicle maintenance and is most likely not that interested anyway. Normal females have blokes to do this kind of job for them!
Many thanks for your feedback. The intention behind this video was to help newbie Landy owners enter their foray into vehicle maintenance. As you say, there are so many other videos aimed at folks who already know a lot more.
May I ask the actual man hours for this?
I have done this in the backyard in, say, around two to three hours.This video took us nearly the whole day for the one side which obviously included the filming and explanations by Rob. All not very difficult (as hope came across in the video - just don’t forget the copper spacer when putting it all back together ;-)
@@ASimplyFabLife wow thanks for the reply. I’ve been putting it off for the past year and now I’ve got two weeks to complete both sides before the MOT. All the parts are in my shed but the enthusiasm is elsewhere unknown
simply freeze the race the night before .
Shawn Frizzell mmm, not a bad idea...
forgot the gasket between the swivel seal and retaining ring ?
quit braying on that bearing race with that steel hammer. get yourself a brass or better a copper mallet for that kind of ting. Even better make yourself or buy a hydraulic press....
+honi9 Cheers - you're probably right. But having said that - we were also trying to demonstrate how to do this yourself with minimal tools and resources while still achieving the desired result...
course im right. but im also guilty of far worse. like today for instance in using a sharp cold chisel to fold over a bearing nut lock tab after adjusting a little play in a back wheel. what i achieved was splitting the lock tab and having to replace it. All because i couldnt be bothered to go for a flat screwdriver and just grabbed the sharp cold chisel that was already at hand. SIGH
+honi9 Lol - sounds familiar...
at least use a socket or piece of wood between the bearing ring and the hammer
Theres far easier ways to set the preload up, on the swivel pins...landrover didnt mess about, when they made them, on the production line...
I've decided to seek a position teaching mechanics at an all girl school....
Does The Lady Understand the reason why Pre Load and Torque settings are important, Explanation of the reasons and the consequences of incorrect settings are paramount when teaching somebody how to do something
I know it's got something to do with bits falling off or exploding when they shouldn't ... does that help?
Victoria Koning. Hi Victoria, LOL, I'm just concerned for you, I assume that you personally want to know how a LR works so you can mend it out in the Bush if you have to, all the things being explained to you I guess wouldn't make much sense unless it was explained to you WHY various components have to be assembled in that way, I just thought it could have been explained to you better, ie as the taper bearings are tightened down, the tapers- because they are tapered effectively take up the slack ( vertical float) of the hub, and the Large Hub Nut is Torqued to take up Slack ( End Float) resulting in the smooth free running hub with no End float/Vertical float that you have, But without being so tight that the bearings would over heat and break up. no disrespect to your mechanic
Not really good practice to strike a bearing with a steel club hammer, much better way would be to draw it in square with a large bolt and spigoted sleeve.
Fair comment. But here we are trying to illustrate it can be done with limited tools (granted not to spec - but it works and we drove it for years).
very nice job, will be showing this to my wife. please take off your rings and wear rubber gloves please.
Legs under the vehicle? Big no no especially when pushing.
Also reusing split pins circlips and locking washers?
Pence to fit new. Glad it's not a Plane or Helicopter.
I would be using lock tight on those bolts.
Also advisable to use 2 methods of support on each side of an axle.
Hitting bearings with a Hammer? NO NEVER
Rolls Royce do it different.
Otherwise an interesting video
that teach's bad practice to novice mechanics.
Basic safety training learnt by any first year Apprentice.
If your going to teach you have to do it by the book.
Phil
monter les cages de roulements à la massette c'est vraiment pas bon ...
use wood to pull in ...