Holy crap. Good on you for having the balls to do this...I've been known to skip meals in order to get mine clean as soon as possible.
12 лет назад+60
Every time I watch your videos I get so jealous... in our country we aren't allowed to have these beautiful guns. Please keep fighting always for your right to bear arms. Greetings from Argentina.
I bought a Chinese type 56 SKS for $50. The guy who sold it to me complained of double and triple fires when he would go to the range. I got it out of the stock and started cleaning. It became obvious that he had never cleaned it! The firing pin was wedged forward from all the caked up carbon inside. Getting the upper hand guard off was difficult due to all the grit. Cleaned up nice though and shoots just fine now :-)
@@joshinez8005 no way can you find an SKS Type 56 for 300 anywhere. I've been searching for months and the best I could find was around 450, but the rifle was beat to hell. They are not easy to come by..
corrosive ammo is not a horrible thing to shoot out of your rifle, you just have to clean it really well after you shoot it. i shoot military surplus ammo with my mosin nagant and it is vary accurate. after im done shooting i just use some windex with ammonia on the barrel, bolt, and magazine then use a bore brush down the barrel, a few patches then some oil and i don't have a spot of rust on it
Hoppes #9 It was created with Corrosive in mind. Otherwise any ammonia based household cleaner will do when dealing with a firearm that has fired corrosive ammo
+Albert Ferri Hoppes #9 current formula (both oil and bore cleaner) DO NOT!!!! account for corrosive salts. I found out the hard way. Ammonia is not good for corrosive salts, the water in the windex is what does the job, the ammonia just helps the water evap. quicker. the ammonia WILL mess up your wood on your older guns, especially a with a nice oil finish... Just use a spray bottle with water, while the barrel is WARM, not scalding hot.
I have used WD 40 and Hoppes 9 together pretty successfully. I haven't fired corrosive ammo in nearly 20 yrs but I have two tins of 440 rds of it for my Mosin. My general rule of thumb is that I'll still fire in a bolt action but I don't want to mess around with anything semi-auto and corrosives. There's just too many nooks and crannies and a gas operating system that can be missed
Don't get me wrong I'm pretty good getting them clean. But the older I get the worse my eyesight is becoming and I would hate to ruin a perfectly good semi auto
Point taken on this video...I appreciate your sacrifice. I've got some of that corrosive ammo, and I was curious about what might happen. Thanks for making this video!
1400 rounds through mine since cleaning over a 6 month period in british columbia humidity. Only problem I had was the firing pin sticking forward once which is more of an advantage in my eyes :)
How about every time he says he left this rifle without cleaning it "on purpose". I get that. You get that. Eric is just a bit sensitive about having a dirty firearm. Good man.
Thanks, gives us a good idea of how soon the damage can set in with corrosive ammo. I felt guilty when I let my Mosin go 2-3 days after shooting 60 rounds of corrosive in the past, and since then picked up some Russian Brown Bear non-corrosive. I only buy non-corrosive Brown Bear or Tula for my SKS.
Even when I let my friends fire a few mags through my AR, I always tear down the whole bolt carrier and clean the whole upper. When I test fired 5 rounds in my XD .45 after changing the firing pin spring. I completely cleaned it after
thank you for doing this video eric. Not very many people would risk their weapon to educate others. It also gives an idea into exactly what corrosive ammo does and how long you have before damage is done
I did the same with nearly the exact same amount of rounds and time left sitting after shooting. My M59's barrel was coated with rust. I'm talking bad. I had to put a cleaning rod on my drill with a wire brush on the end and let the barrel soak overnight in CLR. After A LOT of elbow grease, I got it back to shooting condition. That's learning the hard way what corrosive ammo does to a non-chrome lined barrel!
I used your suggestion from one of your videos a long time ago regarding corrosive ammo. I pour a little Birchwood Casey Muzzle Magic #77 into the chamber and barrel and run nylon brush through it a couple of times before heading home from the range. Works like a charm every time. Thanks again.
I remember the first time I ever fired my SKS, it was with corrosive surplus ammo and fortunately I was with a friend familiar with that ammo who made me clean the rifle in a bathtub full of warm water & soap. That worked fairly well followed by a thorough drying which was then followed by a light oiling with CLP. Even with regular ammo, it's not a bad idea to do this type of cleaning now and then to remove old gunk in small areas as long as you make sure to it well dry and oil it afterwards.
It would be interesting to see what happened to the bore itself and the gas tube. I doubt all that surface rust on other parts would prevent it from working well.
@Iraqveteran8888 I have a Savage model 4 C that was my grandpas, it has been in my family for four or five generations now. Atleast I'm fifth generation to ever shoot it. It had not been cleaned once and would never eject bullet. I spent four hours, an entire bottle of solvent, over 100 patches and its working like brand new, their was so much lead fowling that you could barely see any rifeling, now its dead accurate at 150 yards, and works like a charm, just shows that cleaning does help
I don't strip down my bolt guns either...I scrub the bore for copper and powder fouling, clean the bolt face, and reapply lube as required on the lugs and sear, then reassemble. If the rifle is exceeding fouled, I'll run a doused patch of hoppes 9 and let it sit overnight, then reengage the next day. My 03A3 still shoots pretty damn well out to 400 yards even with me behind the trigger
I use Hoppe's # 9 solvent followed by a light coat of oil. It is best to do the cleaning as soon as possible after a firing session. The simple green and water are for after a firearm has been neglected. Oil and water don't mix, and the water will cause rust in its own right, so a water cleaning should be followed by a good cleaning and oiling. The Hoppe's is an excellent solvent for corrosive ammo cleanup, but the main point is that you need to do your cleaning ASAP after firing.
Good video. You are right about proper, timely cleaning, but I have cleaned some AR's right after the range and there was much more carbon, but no rust. All in all, that Yugo ammo seems pretty clean! I once loaned a Chilean Mauser to a buddy, who shot corrosive ammo through it, and didn't bother to clean it. Had I known he was using old, surplus ammo; I would have never let him use it. He finally brought it back (after 2 months), not cleaned. I found the bore was pitted when I cleaned it.
An easy thing to do when You're shooting corrosive surplus ammo is to bring a thermos full of hot water, a small funnel and a few cleaning tools along with you when You go shooting. When You're done, pull the bolt out and pour hot water down the barrel and wash off the bolt, then dry and run a couple oiled patches through and over everything. The water washes out the corrosive salts, leaving nothing to damage the metal.
'Simple Green' never really worked that well w/ me; I've always used Hoppes #9 solvent and/or Ballistol as soon as reasonably possible, usually the same day. Works great!
I have a VZ 58 that I only fire surplus corrosive ammo through. I clean it after every shoot with boiling water. I pour it right down the barrel and then use a brass brush and jags. I have never had a problem with the firearm. I love the cheap ammo!
well, the ammo has a primer that has chemicals that when ignited leave a residue of corrosive salts. Most often these primers have potassium chlorate, or sodium petrochlorate which, when burned, decompose into potassium chloride or sodium chloride.Sodium chloride is also known as common table salt.The good side to that is the bulets last much longer,than non corrosive
I would also mention that spray lubricant/protectant (Rem Oil in my case) is great to get rid of small patches of surface rust. Dirties up a patch quite well.
My SKS gas piston rusted BADLY. It created a thick fur coat of rust. I shot it in a rain and forgot to disassemble/clean the gas piston part. Had to sandpaper it off, no amount of oil and rubbing with cloth would remove the rust. Took a couple of weeks. I cleaned and oiled the rest of the gun the same evening and it's still shiny.
Note:The bore/breech on an sks, or ak variant are usually CHROME LINED. No damage occurs to the chrome lining, it will clean up like new with oil and brush. if the entire gun surface was chrome plated you could shoot corrosive ammo and never see rust or corrosion.
I was shooting surplus 5.45 and left the piston dirty for a couple days. When I came back, there was huge pockets of rust that had formed all over. It even left pits on the shaft of the piston and it is made from stainless.
2 parts liquid Ballistol, 8 parts water, mix in spray bottle. Used it for years on both black powder and corrosive ammo. Spray parts thoroughly and allow to soak for a few minutes. Clean, lubricate and re-assemble. What we did in he Army, I still do- the next day, tear down again, wipe parts, lubricate as necessary and re-assemble. You will be surprised what soaks out of the cracks during the night.
Yes, your basically right(All you really need is hot water) the need for soap(Or a bottle of ammonia..Windex is basically all water) is just to help break up the oils that could be covering the salts.
I shoot one of my Mosins pretty regularly, about 40 rounds per week, with only corrosive ammo and never clean it. Haven't cleaned it since I first bought it over a year ago. It's still doing fine. Some surface rust but nothing some gun oil wont wipe off. Bore is still decent too. Not sure if its because it is shot regularly or what.
Gun Gripes! Eric and Berry I'll be seeing you guys in July, headed that way for a trip through Atlanta on up to Nashville. I think I'm gonna buy a PLR 16 from yall. Can't wait to see you guys and God bless!
@DeanMLFlame A trick for shortening the cleaning: run something with ammonia and water through it, like windex or hot soapy water with your bore mop. The ammonia will eat through the corrosive salts and the water will wash it out. Give it a dry patch run after
I use pure simple green in a small plastic container with a locking lid to clean the bolt, carrier, small gas piston rod and spring, etc. It works REALLY well. Put the parts in, shake it up, and let it sit for a few minutes. The simple green turns brown right in front of you...
The harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner works a ton better than scrubbing the small parts. Just set it and come back 10mins later and parts come out perfectly cleaned.
Yeah Ive always wondered that myself. I mean, 2200 rounds is a lot to go through even in a semi automatic rifle. Take into account how much slower a bolt rifle is and you gotta have a relatively small number.
Everybody used corrosive primers back then probably as a cost thing though I'm told the US switched to non-corrosive for their military ammo in the 1950's and I believe the Soviets started the changeover in the late 1970's-early 1980's. I just field strip my SKS and give the parts a good scrub with hot soapy water when I get home from the range followed by a thorough soaking with WD-40 and then clean and re-oil as I would any other rifle.
You don't even need soap. The corrosiveness from surplus ammo comes from salt (much like how salted roads can eat away at the metal of your car), and hot water alone can dissolve that. You could use soap though it's not really necessary, but something like hot water+Ballistol or CorrosionX is still much better as it washes away the salt and prevents rusting as well.
I have yugo sks and my buddy has a almost new issue grade russian sks, he must have found some corrosive ammo and put a couple boxes through it. he called me up and asked if I would clean it for him, well after bringing it home i saw what i was in for as he had not cleaned it in about a year. Chamber, bolt, gas tube, receiver ext all had huge amounts of surface rust, well 4 hours latter lets just say he owes me a couple beers lol
nmdiesel89 I know you already know this, but your friend needs to learn at least how to field strip and clean his weapon. If/when the SHTF, his life and those he protects, will depend on him... not you, my friend.
Norinco surplus has not been corrosive since the late sixties. I shot 750 bullets from factory 71, production year 1996, and about 550 rounds from factory 61, production year 2002. Cleaned the AK about 2 times in the stretch of a year and a half and there was ZERO corrosion. Rounds not super accurate, but I wont miss a human at 200 - 250 meters. Shot it with Norinco Type56S, and to date it have never botched a cycle. The 750 1996 bullets was lacquer coated and the rest copper washed.
I’ve used plenty of this corrosive 7.62x39 ammo and I’ve had no issues. I always clean my firearms after every use regardless of what ammo i put through it.
I fired 80 rounds of corrosive ammunition out of my new Russian SKS and let it sit a couple months until I went to cleaning it. The front of the bolt and the barrel was pretty rusted up. I didn’t think 80 rounds would cause this, I will make sure I Clean it every time now!
mighty fine rifle I must say. Looks almost exactly like mine, minus the corrosion, lol. Thanks for the vid, greatly appreciate you taking your time to do this for us. You sir, are a scholar and a gentleman.
@Matthew Smith, rubbing alcohol will just take off the oils from your hands, and dry up old oil from the action. I suggest CLP, or M Pro 7, but Rubbing alcohol will dry up old oils, and it will not harm the finish.
This is a great video! Thank you so much for making that sacrifice of that rifle for our education. One question: How well does simplegreen and water really work? I would have guessed that the water aspect might cause the gun to rust further? Is there a ratio of simplegreen:water that you go by to keep the solution gun-friendly and rust-free?
That must have taken a lot of patience to think "I'm going to let this sit and rust, just so that I can show the viewers how important cleaning and inspecting is." Thankfully, you knew how to correct the situation. Thanks for the sacrifice to keep us educated.
When I got mine it was rusted up also, I took it apart and put all the components in Rustolium over night and washed it with water. All rust gone. Works great.
In my shop we use an air compressor set to 90 psi and we go to town then used compresses oil (like a can of rem-oil) to spray the parts, works like a champ. Look into ezzox for an oil/cleaner, it's what we use and have had great results.
I had a never fired Russian surplus Mosin-Nagant, which I loaned to a friend. He fired about 20 rounds and put it away. I got it back from him about a year later. When I cleaned it, the Bore looked like it had grown a fur coat. I cleaned and scrubbed the bore till all deposits were gone. After cleaning, the bore was nice and shiny. The rifling was almost completely gone. It looked a lot like a pitted shotgun barrel. My beautiful Mosin was worthless. The lesson is, clean early after shooting corrosive ammo!
It's not a Yugo SKS. The rifle is a Chinese Norinco SKS-D with a shorter barrel and AK style muzzle break. When he said Yugo in the video he was referring to the surplus ammo he was shooting.
Good video. Corrosive ammo is cheap and reliable. It was the standard for most of the 20th Century. It will ruin a weapon if not cleaned but its not as horrible as gun writers say. Boiling water and dish soap will stop most corrosive action. British made ammo is the most corrosive I have ever seen, yet Enfields have dark but good bores. They issued funnels for pouring boiling water down the bore, and they had small screen pullthroughs for scrubbing out red rust. Oil after cleaning.
People think because you have an ak-47 or sks that you don’t have to clean them but fact of the matter is no matter what firearm you have you must keep them clean to prolong their life and function
12 лет назад
Eric, I was wondering how many parts Simple Green to water. I read somewhere that when shooting corossive ammo spraying a little windex down the barrel to clean it will get rid of the corrosive salts that the corrosive primers give off.I believe it is the amonia in the Windex that does it. Excellent video as always.
yes it will but it will be fine quad rails are aluminum it doesnt rust, the only thing that will happen is your fingers will get a bit dirty after alot of use, not to mention the quad rail will have a finish on it as well.
So I guess the thought process was if you end up with an old neglected SKS with rust all over, perhaps one that was simply not stored properly with oil or cosmoline, worst case scenario is you kick the bolt open, and it'll still run accurately. Perhaps reliably as well, I know my experience so far with my 1954 SKS has been 99.9% reliability. Literally. 1 malfunction in 1000 rnds of Czech surplus lol
I'm kinda thinking of picking up an SKS for a cheap marksmanship trainer. $220 for a NOS one at the hardware store here in Canada. I'm very picky about cleaning my fine sporting arms, but with one of these I'd honestly just rinse it all out with the garden hose, swab out the barrel and gas tube, dry it with compressed air, and hose it off with seafoam or remoil. It may sound bad, but I just wouldn't really care enough about a cheap Chinese surplus rifle to spend an hour or two swabbing and wiping off every speck of dirt .
maybe the area you keep it in is not idea, you want a very dry and mild temperature room to keep it in, and generally the barrel oiled up if your going for long term storage, i try to store mine in special container, wrap it in cellophane and then dump cheap dry rice around it, and that keeps it pretty good.
Hey Guys, love your videos. I feel like I know you, Eric, Barry and all. Very instructional and entertaining. If I ever get down to Atlanta area again, maybe I'll drop by the shop.
i have fired close to 4000 rounds in my sks over about two years and never cleaned it once...and i am impressed cause i haven't even had one jam. sks is built like a brick %%%% house!!!
Just do what he did here. Use a water/detergent mixture to neutralize the salts found in surplus ammo, then clean and lube the gun in a normal fashion. It's not that big of a deal, you'd need to neglect the weapon for weeks to cause trouble. Just clean up within a few days of shooting.
Thanks for making the video, I really enjoyed it. I don't shoot any corrosive ammo, but this is a good reference should I ever find some on cheap enough to get my attention.
I did a salt test on some spent 54r cases. And the Yugo was among the least corrosive. Bulgarian was worst. Also, if you can buy a cheap junk barrel, do a sectioning of a barrel after so many rounds without cleaning.
It is the chemicals in the primer that is corrosive, not the powder. I agree that using water to clean a firearm is a really bad idea because it accelerates oxidation. If you have to use it, put dishwashing soap which makes it alkaline and acts as a surfactant. Never use drain cleaner. Those products are usually phosphoric acid based. If you put 2200 rounds of anything through a firearm and leave it uncleaned for 3 months, you are going to get rust. Whether I shoot 50 or 500 rounds, I always clean my firearm within 48 hours. Even if you do not shoot your firearm at all, you need to clean it periodically due to ambient atmospheric moisture which can cause rust.
I think the rust issue with corrosive ammo is overstated for the average shooting experience. 2200 rounds before cleaning is a pretty exceptional circumstance outside of warfare. I've shot dozens of rounds of corrosive ammo out of my SKS and SVT40, not cleaned it for months over the winter, and found no rust at all in the spring when I cleaned it before hitting the range. Not cleaning it for that long was in itself an exceptional circumstance, and I was expecting to find a rusty mess, but nothing. Not a spot.
@Matthew Smith, In the Marines I was taught, Weapon, gear, body. That rifle you own will take care of you, if you take care of it. Now, go get some Hoppe's #9 bore copper solvent, and Break Free CLP, maybe a silicone gun rag for surface rust too.
I had rust the day after just firing a dozen rounds through a Mosin. I had guests over and did not have time to immediately clean. To me the moral is to just not shoot any corrosive ammo. It's too easy just to get the right brass and reload it with good stuff.
You should do the same type of video with the Mosin! I rinse mine with hot soapy water when I get home from shooting. I wonder how good of a job i'm doing. Especially taking apart the bolt, and trigger assembly. Thanks for the video
I buy only non-corrosive ammo for normal use. Once I get some money built up though I am going to get a few spam cans to have just in case the SHTF. And even then i'm going to try to find the least corrosive stuff I can. I always clean my weapons after every range trip and they'll usually be taken apart and inspected every few months even if not used because I like to do that :p . It made me cry to see all that rust on your SKS. Even if it was to make a point. I'd have bought a beater for this.
The only thing I caught that you didn't touch on was one of the most important reasons to keep corrosive powder residue out of your firearm... The bore... Corrosive powder can and will damage the rifling in the barrel which will basically make a good rifle a piece of junk.. But still a great video..
corrosive ammo is mostly bad if you already have a high humidity in the room that you store your gun in. if its a dry place then it wont matter much anyway. since water is, of course, needed for the rusting to take place effectively so maybe you should place it somewhere with a bit more humidity. like your garage?
Holy crap. Good on you for having the balls to do this...I've been known to skip meals in order to get mine clean as soon as possible.
Every time I watch your videos I get so jealous... in our country we aren't allowed to have these beautiful guns. Please keep fighting always for your right to bear arms.
Greetings from Argentina.
This may be changing with your new leader in 2024. Am I correct? ;)
Wish I had 2200 rounds to rust my gun up with lol
XLARGE lmao right. you can barely even find surplus ammo and if you do its too expensive.
abraham m Reload your own ammo.
@@abrahamm1325 not in canada lol we get chinese
Tulammo is cheap. It’s 40 round for 12 dollars from where I’m at. Only a dollar more then a 20 round box of 223. It’s pretty inexpensive.
@@ryanwaterman3473 > Reload your own ammo
> most if not all surplus ammo is berdan primed
yeah good luck with that one chief.
I bought a Chinese type 56 SKS for $50. The guy who sold it to me complained of double and triple fires when he would go to the range. I got it out of the stock and started cleaning. It became obvious that he had never cleaned it! The firing pin was wedged forward from all the caked up carbon inside. Getting the upper hand guard off was difficult due to all the grit. Cleaned up nice though and shoots just fine now :-)
PCShogun and you could probs sell it for $900-1200 today
NotAMethDealer Not in America.
NotAMethDealer
judging that you can find them online for around 200 dollars, 300 with tapco assembly...i don't think he can sell his for that much....
@@joshinez8005 no way can you find an SKS Type 56 for 300 anywhere. I've been searching for months and the best I could find was around 450, but the rifle was beat to hell. They are not easy to come by..
@@user-mq1up2fw4r can find them for 299 to 340 in new Brunswick canada cheap gun here
corrosive ammo is not a horrible thing to shoot out of your rifle, you just have to clean it really well after you shoot it. i shoot military surplus ammo with my mosin nagant and it is vary accurate. after im done shooting i just use some windex with ammonia on the barrel, bolt, and magazine then use a bore brush down the barrel, a few patches then some oil and i don't have a spot of rust on it
my baby watched this video and the first words he ever spoke were...wust, wust.
Gonna know what NOT to let on his guns!
; )
Hoppes #9 It was created with Corrosive in mind. Otherwise any ammonia based household cleaner will do when dealing with a firearm that has fired corrosive ammo
+Albert Ferri what the fuck? You just walk around spitting good facts and think it's ok?
+Albert Ferri Hoppes #9 current formula (both oil and bore cleaner)
DO NOT!!!! account for corrosive salts. I found out the hard way.
Ammonia is not good for corrosive salts, the water in the windex is what does the job, the ammonia just helps the water evap. quicker.
the ammonia WILL mess up your wood on your older guns, especially a with a nice oil finish...
Just use a spray bottle with water, while the barrel is WARM, not scalding hot.
+Albert Ferri Ive used wd 40 on my mosin.
I have used WD 40 and Hoppes 9 together pretty successfully. I haven't fired corrosive ammo in nearly 20 yrs but I have two tins of 440 rds of it for my Mosin. My general rule of thumb is that I'll still fire in a bolt action but I don't want to mess around with anything semi-auto and corrosives. There's just too many nooks and crannies and a gas operating system that can be missed
Don't get me wrong I'm pretty good getting them clean. But the older I get the worse my eyesight is becoming and I would hate to ruin a perfectly good semi auto
Point taken on this video...I appreciate your sacrifice. I've got some of that corrosive ammo, and I was curious about what might happen. Thanks for making this video!
1400 rounds through mine since cleaning over a 6 month period in british columbia humidity. Only problem I had was the firing pin sticking forward once which is more of an advantage in my eyes :)
New drinking game, every time Eric says surface rust or stuff do a shot.
+Randy or okay in most video😀
+Cutlery Addiction I can drink like a fish, but I'll admit, I'd be plastered walking backwards by the 4 minute mark.
2 minutes in I am drunk
How about every time he says he left this rifle without cleaning it "on purpose". I get that. You get that. Eric is just a bit sensitive about having a dirty firearm. Good man.
Needs more SURFACE RUST
Thanks, gives us a good idea of how soon the damage can set in with corrosive ammo. I felt guilty when I let my Mosin go 2-3 days after shooting 60 rounds of corrosive in the past, and since then picked up some Russian Brown Bear non-corrosive. I only buy non-corrosive Brown Bear or Tula for my SKS.
how did the bore look? actually for all that ammo and lack of cleaning it still looked really good. A lot better than I would have expected.
Even when I let my friends fire a few mags through my AR, I always tear down the whole bolt carrier and clean the whole upper. When I test fired 5 rounds in my XD .45 after changing the firing pin spring. I completely cleaned it after
Just terrible
thank you for doing this video eric. Not very many people would risk their weapon to educate others. It also gives an idea into exactly what corrosive ammo does and how long you have before damage is done
I did the same with nearly the exact same amount of rounds and time left sitting after shooting. My M59's barrel was coated with rust. I'm talking bad. I had to put a cleaning rod on my drill with a wire brush on the end and let the barrel soak overnight in CLR. After A LOT of elbow grease, I got it back to shooting condition. That's learning the hard way what corrosive ammo does to a non-chrome lined barrel!
this makes me so sad to see a rifle in this condition.
+AllOrNothinEnt Collectors would disagree with you...
+AllOrNothinEnt It's not well used, it's just plain neglected. I'm curious why he did it with a nice sks and not a cheap(er) Nagant.
I used your suggestion from one of your videos a long time ago regarding corrosive ammo. I pour a little Birchwood Casey Muzzle Magic #77 into the chamber and barrel and run nylon brush through it a couple of times before heading home from the range. Works like a charm every time. Thanks again.
I remember the first time I ever fired my SKS, it was with corrosive surplus ammo and fortunately I was with a friend familiar with that ammo who made me clean the rifle in a bathtub full of warm water & soap. That worked fairly well followed by a thorough drying which was then followed by a light oiling with CLP. Even with regular ammo, it's not a bad idea to do this type of cleaning now and then to remove old gunk in small areas as long as you make sure to it well dry and oil it afterwards.
12 years later and I gotta say, you're doing God's work by making this video friend
It would be interesting to see what happened to the bore itself and the gas tube. I doubt all that surface rust on other parts would prevent it from working well.
@Iraqveteran8888 I have a Savage model 4 C that was my grandpas, it has been in my family for four or five generations now. Atleast I'm fifth generation to ever shoot it. It had not been cleaned once and would never eject bullet. I spent four hours, an entire bottle of solvent, over 100 patches and its working like brand new, their was so much lead fowling that you could barely see any rifeling, now its dead accurate at 150 yards, and works like a charm, just shows that cleaning does help
I don't strip down my bolt guns either...I scrub the bore for copper and powder fouling, clean the bolt face, and reapply lube as required on the lugs and sear, then reassemble. If the rifle is exceeding fouled, I'll run a doused patch of hoppes 9 and let it sit overnight, then reengage the next day. My 03A3 still shoots pretty damn well out to 400 yards even with me behind the trigger
I use Hoppe's # 9 solvent followed by a light coat of oil. It is best to do the cleaning as soon as possible after a firing session. The simple green and water are for after a firearm has been neglected. Oil and water don't mix, and the water will cause rust in its own right, so a water cleaning should be followed by a good cleaning and oiling. The Hoppe's is an excellent solvent for corrosive ammo cleanup, but the main point is that you need to do your cleaning ASAP after firing.
Good video. You are right about proper, timely cleaning, but I have cleaned some AR's right after the range and there was much more carbon, but no rust. All in all, that Yugo ammo seems pretty clean! I once loaned a Chilean Mauser to a buddy, who shot corrosive ammo through it, and didn't bother to clean it. Had I known he was using old, surplus ammo; I would have never let him use it. He finally brought it back (after 2 months), not cleaned. I found the bore was pitted when I cleaned it.
An easy thing to do when You're shooting corrosive surplus ammo is to bring a thermos full of hot water, a small funnel and a few cleaning tools along with you when You go shooting. When You're done, pull the bolt out and pour hot water down the barrel and wash off the bolt, then dry and run a couple oiled patches through and over everything. The water washes out the corrosive salts, leaving nothing to damage the metal.
"nice" and "rust" are 2 words I would not normally use in the same sentence. :o)
it's nice that there's no rust on my gun.
dutchsouthernrockfan Much better :o)
rust is not nice
unless you're looking for a good rat rod body....
'Simple Green' never really worked that well w/ me; I've always used Hoppes #9 solvent and/or Ballistol as soon as reasonably possible, usually the same day. Works great!
I have a VZ 58 that I only fire surplus corrosive ammo through. I clean it after every shoot with boiling water. I pour it right down the barrel and then use a brass brush and jags. I have never had a problem with the firearm. I love the cheap ammo!
well, the ammo has a primer that has chemicals that when ignited leave a residue of corrosive salts. Most often these primers have potassium chlorate, or sodium petrochlorate which, when burned, decompose into potassium chloride or sodium chloride.Sodium chloride is also known as common table salt.The good side to that is the bulets last much longer,than non corrosive
I would also mention that spray lubricant/protectant (Rem Oil in my case) is great to get rid of small patches of surface rust. Dirties up a patch quite well.
My SKS gas piston rusted BADLY. It created a thick fur coat of rust. I shot it in a rain and forgot to disassemble/clean the gas piston part. Had to sandpaper it off, no amount of oil and rubbing with cloth would remove the rust. Took a couple of weeks. I cleaned and oiled the rest of the gun the same evening and it's still shiny.
Note:The bore/breech on an sks, or ak variant are usually CHROME LINED. No damage occurs to the chrome lining, it will clean up like new with oil and brush. if the entire gun surface was chrome plated you could shoot corrosive ammo and never see rust or corrosion.
Not true.
I was shooting surplus 5.45 and left the piston dirty for a couple days. When I came back, there was huge pockets of rust that had formed all over. It even left pits on the shaft of the piston and it is made from stainless.
2 parts liquid Ballistol, 8 parts water, mix in spray bottle. Used it for years on both black powder and corrosive ammo. Spray parts thoroughly and allow to soak for a few minutes. Clean, lubricate and re-assemble. What we did in he Army, I still do- the next day, tear down again, wipe parts, lubricate as necessary and re-assemble. You will be surprised what soaks out of the cracks during the night.
Yes, your basically right(All you really need is hot water) the need for soap(Or a bottle of ammonia..Windex is basically all water) is just to help break up the oils that could be covering the salts.
I shoot one of my Mosins pretty regularly, about 40 rounds per week, with only corrosive ammo and never clean it. Haven't cleaned it since I first bought it over a year ago. It's still doing fine. Some surface rust but nothing some gun oil wont wipe off. Bore is still decent too. Not sure if its because it is shot regularly or what.
Gun Gripes! Eric and Berry I'll be seeing you guys in July, headed that way for a trip through Atlanta on up to Nashville. I think I'm gonna buy a PLR 16 from yall. Can't wait to see you guys and God bless!
@DeanMLFlame A trick for shortening the cleaning: run something with ammonia and water through it, like windex or hot soapy water with your bore mop. The ammonia will eat through the corrosive salts and the water will wash it out. Give it a dry patch run after
I use pure simple green in a small plastic container with a locking lid to clean the bolt, carrier, small gas piston rod and spring, etc. It works REALLY well. Put the parts in, shake it up, and let it sit for a few minutes. The simple green turns brown right in front of you...
The harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner works a ton better than scrubbing the small parts. Just set it and come back 10mins later and parts come out perfectly cleaned.
Simple Green. It's a common degreaser, it can be found in any well stocked auto supply shop or hardware store.
already shared this with two people with older guns since i seen it 3 days ago. great vid.
Yeah Ive always wondered that myself. I mean, 2200 rounds is a lot to go through even in a semi automatic rifle. Take into account how much slower a bolt rifle is and you gotta have a relatively small number.
It's a detergent, and a mild solvent. Used for cleaning up greasy messes and burnt on food, like powder residue.
"Nice Coat of Surface Rust" Love this guy!
SKSs have chrome lined bores, generally are not attacked by corrosive primers.
Everybody used corrosive primers back then probably as a cost thing though I'm told the US switched to non-corrosive for their military ammo in the 1950's and I believe the Soviets started the changeover in the late 1970's-early 1980's. I just field strip my SKS and give the parts a good scrub with hot soapy water when I get home from the range followed by a thorough soaking with WD-40 and then clean and re-oil as I would any other rifle.
You don't even need soap. The corrosiveness from surplus ammo comes from salt (much like how salted roads can eat away at the metal of your car), and hot water alone can dissolve that. You could use soap though it's not really necessary, but something like hot water+Ballistol or CorrosionX is still much better as it washes away the salt and prevents rusting as well.
I have yugo sks and my buddy has a almost new issue grade russian sks, he must have found some corrosive ammo and put a couple boxes through it. he called me up and asked if I would clean it for him, well after bringing it home i saw what i was in for as he had not cleaned it in about a year. Chamber, bolt, gas tube, receiver ext all had huge amounts of surface rust, well 4 hours latter lets just say he owes me a couple beers lol
your a nice guy!
Sounds like an abusive "friend". Keep an eye out for his willingness to help you.
ZdenekJindra no, he literally does not know how to fully disassemble an sks lol
nmdiesel89 I know you already know this, but your friend needs to learn at least how to field strip and clean his weapon. If/when the SHTF, his life and those he protects, will depend on him... not you, my friend.
Pk Spence oh I'm tracking, I sat him down and showed him a step by step.
in fact, the AA-12 does not need to be cleaned after use, because it was made to enter the water, mud, sand, all without locking ...
Good video. I am forwarding this to several of my friends who are new to being gun owners.
That chipped extractor looks like an old damage, the edges seems rounded off from post-break wear
That went through my head too.
+J. Dana Clark yeah, seemed like it broke off too cleanly, as opposed to it disintegrating away
its probably been like that since 1952... no need to replace it but masewell throw money on the fire "for safetys sake"
Try pouring boiling hot water down the barrel, gas system and working parts, then lightly lube afterwards, I have always done this and it works well.
Norinco surplus has not been corrosive since the late sixties. I shot 750 bullets from factory 71, production year 1996, and about 550 rounds from factory 61, production year 2002. Cleaned the AK about 2 times in the stretch of a year and a half and there was ZERO corrosion. Rounds not super accurate, but I wont miss a human at 200 - 250 meters. Shot it with Norinco Type56S, and to date it have never botched a cycle. The 750 1996 bullets was lacquer coated and the rest copper washed.
I’ve used plenty of this corrosive 7.62x39 ammo and I’ve had no issues. I always clean my firearms after every use regardless of what ammo i put through it.
great topic, just yesterday I was doing research on corrosive ammo remedies
I fired 80 rounds of corrosive ammunition out of my new Russian SKS and let it sit a couple months until I went to cleaning it. The front of the bolt and the barrel was pretty rusted up. I didn’t think 80 rounds would cause this, I will make sure I Clean it every time now!
mighty fine rifle I must say. Looks almost exactly like mine, minus the corrosion, lol. Thanks for the vid, greatly appreciate you taking your time to do this for us. You sir, are a scholar and a gentleman.
Geez, up here in Washington state I've been looking for a type M for over a year now with no luck. Great vid!!!
@Matthew Smith, rubbing alcohol will just take off the oils from your hands, and dry up old oil from the action. I suggest CLP, or M Pro 7, but Rubbing alcohol will dry up old oils, and it will not harm the finish.
This is a great video! Thank you so much for making that sacrifice of that rifle for our education. One question: How well does simplegreen and water really work? I would have guessed that the water aspect might cause the gun to rust further? Is there a ratio of simplegreen:water that you go by to keep the solution gun-friendly and rust-free?
That must have taken a lot of patience to think "I'm going to let this sit and rust, just so that I can show the viewers how important cleaning and inspecting is."
Thankfully, you knew how to correct the situation.
Thanks for the sacrifice to keep us educated.
That is a very good example of why I avoid corrosive ammo. I clean my guns after every outing, but even so.
When I got mine it was rusted up also, I took it apart and put all the components in Rustolium over night and washed it with water. All rust gone. Works great.
When are you going to do an sks torture test?
In my shop we use an air compressor set to 90 psi and we go to town then used compresses oil (like a can of rem-oil) to spray the parts, works like a champ. Look into ezzox for an oil/cleaner, it's what we use and have had great results.
I had a never fired Russian surplus Mosin-Nagant, which I loaned to a friend. He fired about 20 rounds and put it away. I got it back from him about a year later. When I cleaned it, the Bore looked like it had grown a fur coat. I cleaned and scrubbed the bore till all deposits were gone. After cleaning, the bore was nice and shiny. The rifling was almost completely gone. It looked a lot like a pitted shotgun barrel. My beautiful Mosin was worthless. The lesson is, clean early after shooting corrosive ammo!
How about just using non corrosive ammo instead?
@@ziggyz2958 880 rounds for the mosin used to be sub 200 dollars a number of years back. That's why.
It's not a Yugo SKS. The rifle is a Chinese Norinco SKS-D with a shorter barrel and AK style muzzle break. When he said Yugo in the video he was referring to the surplus ammo he was shooting.
Good video. Corrosive ammo is cheap and reliable. It was the standard for most of the 20th Century. It will ruin a weapon if not cleaned but its not as horrible as gun writers say. Boiling water and dish soap will stop most corrosive action. British made ammo is the most corrosive I have ever seen, yet Enfields have dark but good bores. They issued funnels for pouring boiling water down the bore, and they had small screen pullthroughs for scrubbing out red rust. Oil after cleaning.
And about the receivers, Forged is not always better, yes it is heavier and more sought after in the AKs but it is also a bit more brittle.
People think because you have an ak-47 or sks that you don’t have to clean them but fact of the matter is no matter what firearm you have you must keep them clean to prolong their life and function
Eric, I was wondering how many parts Simple Green to water. I read somewhere that when shooting corossive ammo spraying a little windex down the barrel to clean it will get rid of the corrosive salts that the corrosive primers give off.I believe it is the amonia in the Windex that does it. Excellent video as always.
At least it cleans up! Also, I like using CLP, helps break down the carbon and rust very nicely!
yes it will but it will be fine quad rails are aluminum it doesnt rust, the only thing that will happen is your fingers will get a bit dirty after alot of use, not to mention the quad rail will have a finish on it as well.
In the Army we used straight solvent tanks to clean the Browning .50s. Grease Em back up, good to go.
So I guess the thought process was if you end up with an old neglected SKS with rust all over, perhaps one that was simply not stored properly with oil or cosmoline, worst case scenario is you kick the bolt open, and it'll still run accurately. Perhaps reliably as well, I know my experience so far with my 1954 SKS has been 99.9% reliability. Literally. 1 malfunction in 1000 rnds of Czech surplus lol
I'm kinda thinking of picking up an SKS for a cheap marksmanship trainer. $220 for a NOS one at the hardware store here in Canada.
I'm very picky about cleaning my fine sporting arms, but with one of these I'd honestly just rinse it all out with the garden hose, swab out the barrel and gas tube, dry it with compressed air, and hose it off with seafoam or remoil. It may sound bad, but I just wouldn't really care enough about a cheap Chinese surplus rifle to spend an hour or two swabbing and wiping off every speck of dirt .
Good vid. really gets the point across. Always clean your firearms!!!!
Good video. I probably won't ever shoot corrosive but good to see the results of not cleaning.
maybe the area you keep it in is not idea, you want a very dry and mild temperature room to keep it in, and generally the barrel oiled up if your going for long term storage, i try to store mine in special container, wrap it in cellophane and then dump cheap dry rice around it, and that keeps it pretty good.
Hey Guys, love your videos. I feel like I know you, Eric, Barry and all. Very instructional and entertaining. If I ever get down to Atlanta area again, maybe I'll drop by the shop.
i have fired close to 4000 rounds in my sks over about two years and never cleaned it once...and i am impressed cause i haven't even had one jam. sks is built like a brick %%%% house!!!
Just do what he did here. Use a water/detergent mixture to neutralize the salts found in surplus ammo, then clean and lube the gun in a normal fashion. It's not that big of a deal, you'd need to neglect the weapon for weeks to cause trouble. Just clean up within a few days of shooting.
I love Simple Green, that stuff kicks butt.
Thanks for making the video, I really enjoyed it. I don't shoot any corrosive ammo, but this is a good reference should I ever find some on cheap enough to get my attention.
I did a salt test on some spent 54r cases. And the Yugo was among the least corrosive. Bulgarian was worst.
Also, if you can buy a cheap junk barrel, do a sectioning of a barrel after so many rounds without cleaning.
It is the chemicals in the primer that is corrosive, not the powder. I agree that using water to clean a firearm is a really bad idea because it accelerates oxidation. If you have to use it, put dishwashing soap which makes it alkaline and acts as a surfactant. Never use drain cleaner. Those products are usually phosphoric acid based. If you put 2200 rounds of anything through a firearm and leave it uncleaned for 3 months, you are going to get rust. Whether I shoot 50 or 500 rounds, I always clean my firearm within 48 hours. Even if you do not shoot your firearm at all, you need to clean it periodically due to ambient atmospheric moisture which can cause rust.
I think the rust issue with corrosive ammo is overstated for the average shooting experience. 2200 rounds before cleaning is a pretty exceptional circumstance outside of warfare. I've shot dozens of rounds of corrosive ammo out of my SKS and SVT40, not cleaned it for months over the winter, and found no rust at all in the spring when I cleaned it before hitting the range. Not cleaning it for that long was in itself an exceptional circumstance, and I was expecting to find a rusty mess, but nothing. Not a spot.
@Matthew Smith, In the Marines I was taught, Weapon, gear, body. That rifle you own will take care of you, if you take care of it. Now, go get some Hoppe's #9 bore copper solvent, and Break Free CLP, maybe a silicone gun rag for surface rust too.
can rubbing alcohol help to or would it ruin the parts?
Aparentemente el sks esta permitido solamente con el cagardor interno.
SKS it's only allowed if it has an internal mag.
Great video, thanks for posting this. One question for you. What ratio of simple green do you use for gun cleaning?
I had rust the day after just firing a dozen rounds through a Mosin. I had guests over and did not have time to immediately clean. To me the moral is to just not shoot any corrosive ammo. It's too easy just to get the right brass and reload it with good stuff.
You should do the same type of video with the Mosin! I rinse mine with hot soapy water when I get home from shooting. I wonder how good of a job i'm doing. Especially taking apart the bolt, and trigger assembly.
Thanks for the video
The corrosive primers were less expensive and I believe a bit more reliable.
I buy only non-corrosive ammo for normal use. Once I get some money built up though I am going to get a few spam cans to have just in case the SHTF. And even then i'm going to try to find the least corrosive stuff I can. I always clean my weapons after every range trip and they'll usually be taken apart and inspected every few months even if not used because I like to do that :p . It made me cry to see all that rust on your SKS. Even if it was to make a point. I'd have bought a beater for this.
from what I have read, it's the salts used in the primer
I didn't know what corrosive ammo could do to your gun until I watched this video mine sat in storage for 3 months without cleaning.
The only thing I caught that you didn't touch on was one of the most important reasons to keep corrosive powder residue out of your firearm... The bore... Corrosive powder can and will damage the rifling in the barrel which will basically make a good rifle a piece of junk.. But still a great video..
I really appreciate the vid, I always wondered what would happen. Big fan of your vids.
corrosive ammo is mostly bad if you already have a high humidity in the room that you store your gun in. if its a dry place then it wont matter much anyway. since water is, of course, needed for the rusting to take place effectively
so maybe you should place it somewhere with a bit more humidity. like your garage?