Every time I watch your videos I get so jealous... in our country we aren't allowed to have these beautiful guns. Please keep fighting always for your right to bear arms. Greetings from Argentina.
I bought a Chinese type 56 SKS for $50. The guy who sold it to me complained of double and triple fires when he would go to the range. I got it out of the stock and started cleaning. It became obvious that he had never cleaned it! The firing pin was wedged forward from all the caked up carbon inside. Getting the upper hand guard off was difficult due to all the grit. Cleaned up nice though and shoots just fine now :-)
@@joshinez8005 no way can you find an SKS Type 56 for 300 anywhere. I've been searching for months and the best I could find was around 450, but the rifle was beat to hell. They are not easy to come by..
corrosive ammo is not a horrible thing to shoot out of your rifle, you just have to clean it really well after you shoot it. i shoot military surplus ammo with my mosin nagant and it is vary accurate. after im done shooting i just use some windex with ammonia on the barrel, bolt, and magazine then use a bore brush down the barrel, a few patches then some oil and i don't have a spot of rust on it
Hoppes #9 It was created with Corrosive in mind. Otherwise any ammonia based household cleaner will do when dealing with a firearm that has fired corrosive ammo
+Albert Ferri Hoppes #9 current formula (both oil and bore cleaner) DO NOT!!!! account for corrosive salts. I found out the hard way. Ammonia is not good for corrosive salts, the water in the windex is what does the job, the ammonia just helps the water evap. quicker. the ammonia WILL mess up your wood on your older guns, especially a with a nice oil finish... Just use a spray bottle with water, while the barrel is WARM, not scalding hot.
I have used WD 40 and Hoppes 9 together pretty successfully. I haven't fired corrosive ammo in nearly 20 yrs but I have two tins of 440 rds of it for my Mosin. My general rule of thumb is that I'll still fire in a bolt action but I don't want to mess around with anything semi-auto and corrosives. There's just too many nooks and crannies and a gas operating system that can be missed
Don't get me wrong I'm pretty good getting them clean. But the older I get the worse my eyesight is becoming and I would hate to ruin a perfectly good semi auto
How about every time he says he left this rifle without cleaning it "on purpose". I get that. You get that. Eric is just a bit sensitive about having a dirty firearm. Good man.
1400 rounds through mine since cleaning over a 6 month period in british columbia humidity. Only problem I had was the firing pin sticking forward once which is more of an advantage in my eyes :)
Even when I let my friends fire a few mags through my AR, I always tear down the whole bolt carrier and clean the whole upper. When I test fired 5 rounds in my XD .45 after changing the firing pin spring. I completely cleaned it after
It would be interesting to see what happened to the bore itself and the gas tube. I doubt all that surface rust on other parts would prevent it from working well.
Point taken on this video...I appreciate your sacrifice. I've got some of that corrosive ammo, and I was curious about what might happen. Thanks for making this video!
Note:The bore/breech on an sks, or ak variant are usually CHROME LINED. No damage occurs to the chrome lining, it will clean up like new with oil and brush. if the entire gun surface was chrome plated you could shoot corrosive ammo and never see rust or corrosion.
Thanks, gives us a good idea of how soon the damage can set in with corrosive ammo. I felt guilty when I let my Mosin go 2-3 days after shooting 60 rounds of corrosive in the past, and since then picked up some Russian Brown Bear non-corrosive. I only buy non-corrosive Brown Bear or Tula for my SKS.
I shoot one of my Mosins pretty regularly, about 40 rounds per week, with only corrosive ammo and never clean it. Haven't cleaned it since I first bought it over a year ago. It's still doing fine. Some surface rust but nothing some gun oil wont wipe off. Bore is still decent too. Not sure if its because it is shot regularly or what.
'Simple Green' never really worked that well w/ me; I've always used Hoppes #9 solvent and/or Ballistol as soon as reasonably possible, usually the same day. Works great!
2 parts liquid Ballistol, 8 parts water, mix in spray bottle. Used it for years on both black powder and corrosive ammo. Spray parts thoroughly and allow to soak for a few minutes. Clean, lubricate and re-assemble. What we did in he Army, I still do- the next day, tear down again, wipe parts, lubricate as necessary and re-assemble. You will be surprised what soaks out of the cracks during the night.
I did the same with nearly the exact same amount of rounds and time left sitting after shooting. My M59's barrel was coated with rust. I'm talking bad. I had to put a cleaning rod on my drill with a wire brush on the end and let the barrel soak overnight in CLR. After A LOT of elbow grease, I got it back to shooting condition. That's learning the hard way what corrosive ammo does to a non-chrome lined barrel!
Yeah Ive always wondered that myself. I mean, 2200 rounds is a lot to go through even in a semi automatic rifle. Take into account how much slower a bolt rifle is and you gotta have a relatively small number.
I use Hoppe's # 9 solvent followed by a light coat of oil. It is best to do the cleaning as soon as possible after a firing session. The simple green and water are for after a firearm has been neglected. Oil and water don't mix, and the water will cause rust in its own right, so a water cleaning should be followed by a good cleaning and oiling. The Hoppe's is an excellent solvent for corrosive ammo cleanup, but the main point is that you need to do your cleaning ASAP after firing.
I don't strip down my bolt guns either...I scrub the bore for copper and powder fouling, clean the bolt face, and reapply lube as required on the lugs and sear, then reassemble. If the rifle is exceeding fouled, I'll run a doused patch of hoppes 9 and let it sit overnight, then reengage the next day. My 03A3 still shoots pretty damn well out to 400 yards even with me behind the trigger
I remember the first time I ever fired my SKS, it was with corrosive surplus ammo and fortunately I was with a friend familiar with that ammo who made me clean the rifle in a bathtub full of warm water & soap. That worked fairly well followed by a thorough drying which was then followed by a light oiling with CLP. Even with regular ammo, it's not a bad idea to do this type of cleaning now and then to remove old gunk in small areas as long as you make sure to it well dry and oil it afterwards.
An easy thing to do when You're shooting corrosive surplus ammo is to bring a thermos full of hot water, a small funnel and a few cleaning tools along with you when You go shooting. When You're done, pull the bolt out and pour hot water down the barrel and wash off the bolt, then dry and run a couple oiled patches through and over everything. The water washes out the corrosive salts, leaving nothing to damage the metal.
I have yugo sks and my buddy has a almost new issue grade russian sks, he must have found some corrosive ammo and put a couple boxes through it. he called me up and asked if I would clean it for him, well after bringing it home i saw what i was in for as he had not cleaned it in about a year. Chamber, bolt, gas tube, receiver ext all had huge amounts of surface rust, well 4 hours latter lets just say he owes me a couple beers lol
nmdiesel89 I know you already know this, but your friend needs to learn at least how to field strip and clean his weapon. If/when the SHTF, his life and those he protects, will depend on him... not you, my friend.
well, the ammo has a primer that has chemicals that when ignited leave a residue of corrosive salts. Most often these primers have potassium chlorate, or sodium petrochlorate which, when burned, decompose into potassium chloride or sodium chloride.Sodium chloride is also known as common table salt.The good side to that is the bulets last much longer,than non corrosive
That must have taken a lot of patience to think "I'm going to let this sit and rust, just so that I can show the viewers how important cleaning and inspecting is." Thankfully, you knew how to correct the situation. Thanks for the sacrifice to keep us educated.
I would also mention that spray lubricant/protectant (Rem Oil in my case) is great to get rid of small patches of surface rust. Dirties up a patch quite well.
I was shooting surplus 5.45 and left the piston dirty for a couple days. When I came back, there was huge pockets of rust that had formed all over. It even left pits on the shaft of the piston and it is made from stainless.
@Iraqveteran8888 I have a Savage model 4 C that was my grandpas, it has been in my family for four or five generations now. Atleast I'm fifth generation to ever shoot it. It had not been cleaned once and would never eject bullet. I spent four hours, an entire bottle of solvent, over 100 patches and its working like brand new, their was so much lead fowling that you could barely see any rifeling, now its dead accurate at 150 yards, and works like a charm, just shows that cleaning does help
Just wondering, as I'm fairly new to firearms ownership, how would you properly clean a rifle (preferably AK style) after using corrosive surplus ammo? I want to try and prevent rust build up like this.
metalhead2508 Ok, but i say that Yugo weapons have not chrome lined barrels, i am from form Yugoslavia Bosnia and Hercegovina). What about Norinco, quallity, i can buy Type 56-1, but i dont know anything about Chinese rifles, what you thinking, its about 160 dolars here, milled reciver ?
metalhead2508 I shot with it, recoil is very low, but it is very loud. Yes it is little bit heavy, but its ok, and its military grade rifle, not for civilian, it has full auto option on triger. Only what i see is the barrel have some pitting inside, it is chrome lined, but have some pitting, i dont like that to see, but it shot very good, i realy like that low recoil :), and i think the price is very good. Sorry for my English, i never learned English i School, only over movies, please sorry !!!!!
metalhead2508 Thank you man a lot, you help me realy. I don't need precise ak, but i want reliable rifle, i love guns, so it must be very nice. I have also Zastava M57 from my Father, from the Balkan wars, he was in war and that pistol is very important to me. I probably will buy that ak, New Year is coming, i am muslim, not celebrate, but i have chance to shot, becasue fireworks is everywhere haha. It is real norinco type, it has markings 56-1, milled reciver, collapsible stock, all serial numbers are matching. On reciver have markings D and L, D full auto and L is single shot. It have and plastic furniture, not wood. I think it is real Norinco. Cheers good man !
My SKS gas piston rusted BADLY. It created a thick fur coat of rust. I shot it in a rain and forgot to disassemble/clean the gas piston part. Had to sandpaper it off, no amount of oil and rubbing with cloth would remove the rust. Took a couple of weeks. I cleaned and oiled the rest of the gun the same evening and it's still shiny.
Good video. You are right about proper, timely cleaning, but I have cleaned some AR's right after the range and there was much more carbon, but no rust. All in all, that Yugo ammo seems pretty clean! I once loaned a Chilean Mauser to a buddy, who shot corrosive ammo through it, and didn't bother to clean it. Had I known he was using old, surplus ammo; I would have never let him use it. He finally brought it back (after 2 months), not cleaned. I found the bore was pitted when I cleaned it.
This is a great video! Thank you so much for making that sacrifice of that rifle for our education. One question: How well does simplegreen and water really work? I would have guessed that the water aspect might cause the gun to rust further? Is there a ratio of simplegreen:water that you go by to keep the solution gun-friendly and rust-free?
I use pure simple green in a small plastic container with a locking lid to clean the bolt, carrier, small gas piston rod and spring, etc. It works REALLY well. Put the parts in, shake it up, and let it sit for a few minutes. The simple green turns brown right in front of you...
I used your suggestion from one of your videos a long time ago regarding corrosive ammo. I pour a little Birchwood Casey Muzzle Magic #77 into the chamber and barrel and run nylon brush through it a couple of times before heading home from the range. Works like a charm every time. Thanks again.
Gun Gripes! Eric and Berry I'll be seeing you guys in July, headed that way for a trip through Atlanta on up to Nashville. I think I'm gonna buy a PLR 16 from yall. Can't wait to see you guys and God bless!
The harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner works a ton better than scrubbing the small parts. Just set it and come back 10mins later and parts come out perfectly cleaned.
12 лет назад
Eric, I was wondering how many parts Simple Green to water. I read somewhere that when shooting corossive ammo spraying a little windex down the barrel to clean it will get rid of the corrosive salts that the corrosive primers give off.I believe it is the amonia in the Windex that does it. Excellent video as always.
I have a VZ 58 that I only fire surplus corrosive ammo through. I clean it after every shoot with boiling water. I pour it right down the barrel and then use a brass brush and jags. I have never had a problem with the firearm. I love the cheap ammo!
thank you for doing this video eric. Not very many people would risk their weapon to educate others. It also gives an idea into exactly what corrosive ammo does and how long you have before damage is done
Yes, your basically right(All you really need is hot water) the need for soap(Or a bottle of ammonia..Windex is basically all water) is just to help break up the oils that could be covering the salts.
Norinco surplus has not been corrosive since the late sixties. I shot 750 bullets from factory 71, production year 1996, and about 550 rounds from factory 61, production year 2002. Cleaned the AK about 2 times in the stretch of a year and a half and there was ZERO corrosion. Rounds not super accurate, but I wont miss a human at 200 - 250 meters. Shot it with Norinco Type56S, and to date it have never botched a cycle. The 750 1996 bullets was lacquer coated and the rest copper washed.
I had a never fired Russian surplus Mosin-Nagant, which I loaned to a friend. He fired about 20 rounds and put it away. I got it back from him about a year later. When I cleaned it, the Bore looked like it had grown a fur coat. I cleaned and scrubbed the bore till all deposits were gone. After cleaning, the bore was nice and shiny. The rifling was almost completely gone. It looked a lot like a pitted shotgun barrel. My beautiful Mosin was worthless. The lesson is, clean early after shooting corrosive ammo!
@Matthew Smith, rubbing alcohol will just take off the oils from your hands, and dry up old oil from the action. I suggest CLP, or M Pro 7, but Rubbing alcohol will dry up old oils, and it will not harm the finish.
@DeanMLFlame A trick for shortening the cleaning: run something with ammonia and water through it, like windex or hot soapy water with your bore mop. The ammonia will eat through the corrosive salts and the water will wash it out. Give it a dry patch run after
You don't even need soap. The corrosiveness from surplus ammo comes from salt (much like how salted roads can eat away at the metal of your car), and hot water alone can dissolve that. You could use soap though it's not really necessary, but something like hot water+Ballistol or CorrosionX is still much better as it washes away the salt and prevents rusting as well.
how do you feel on the bolt mod in which you mill down on each side of the bolt to allow the after market 20 and 30 round mags to be remover while the bolt is still forward
I’ve used plenty of this corrosive 7.62x39 ammo and I’ve had no issues. I always clean my firearms after every use regardless of what ammo i put through it.
It's not a Yugo SKS. The rifle is a Chinese Norinco SKS-D with a shorter barrel and AK style muzzle break. When he said Yugo in the video he was referring to the surplus ammo he was shooting.
I fired 80 rounds of corrosive ammunition out of my new Russian SKS and let it sit a couple months until I went to cleaning it. The front of the bolt and the barrel was pretty rusted up. I didn’t think 80 rounds would cause this, I will make sure I Clean it every time now!
I think the rust issue with corrosive ammo is overstated for the average shooting experience. 2200 rounds before cleaning is a pretty exceptional circumstance outside of warfare. I've shot dozens of rounds of corrosive ammo out of my SKS and SVT40, not cleaned it for months over the winter, and found no rust at all in the spring when I cleaned it before hitting the range. Not cleaning it for that long was in itself an exceptional circumstance, and I was expecting to find a rusty mess, but nothing. Not a spot.
maybe the area you keep it in is not idea, you want a very dry and mild temperature room to keep it in, and generally the barrel oiled up if your going for long term storage, i try to store mine in special container, wrap it in cellophane and then dump cheap dry rice around it, and that keeps it pretty good.
I'm kinda thinking of picking up an SKS for a cheap marksmanship trainer. $220 for a NOS one at the hardware store here in Canada. I'm very picky about cleaning my fine sporting arms, but with one of these I'd honestly just rinse it all out with the garden hose, swab out the barrel and gas tube, dry it with compressed air, and hose it off with seafoam or remoil. It may sound bad, but I just wouldn't really care enough about a cheap Chinese surplus rifle to spend an hour or two swabbing and wiping off every speck of dirt .
Everybody used corrosive primers back then probably as a cost thing though I'm told the US switched to non-corrosive for their military ammo in the 1950's and I believe the Soviets started the changeover in the late 1970's-early 1980's. I just field strip my SKS and give the parts a good scrub with hot soapy water when I get home from the range followed by a thorough soaking with WD-40 and then clean and re-oil as I would any other rifle.
Would just using solvent take off the rust? Are you going to coat it wiith oil before reassembling, will the water cause it to rust again? Sorry for asking so many questions.
It is the chemicals in the primer that is corrosive, not the powder. I agree that using water to clean a firearm is a really bad idea because it accelerates oxidation. If you have to use it, put dishwashing soap which makes it alkaline and acts as a surfactant. Never use drain cleaner. Those products are usually phosphoric acid based. If you put 2200 rounds of anything through a firearm and leave it uncleaned for 3 months, you are going to get rust. Whether I shoot 50 or 500 rounds, I always clean my firearm within 48 hours. Even if you do not shoot your firearm at all, you need to clean it periodically due to ambient atmospheric moisture which can cause rust.
Would it be advisable to bake all of the metal parts at say 200-300 degrees to completely dry the metal or would that be overkill? I work in the semiconductor industry and have learned that steel can hold onto moisture for a very long time at room temp unless it's "baked out."
I didn’t see him clean the bore of the rifle. Did I miss something here? Since the corrosive ammo attacks the surface of the bore, don’t you want to clean the bore as well?
People think because you have an ak-47 or sks that you don’t have to clean them but fact of the matter is no matter what firearm you have you must keep them clean to prolong their life and function
Good video. Corrosive ammo is cheap and reliable. It was the standard for most of the 20th Century. It will ruin a weapon if not cleaned but its not as horrible as gun writers say. Boiling water and dish soap will stop most corrosive action. British made ammo is the most corrosive I have ever seen, yet Enfields have dark but good bores. They issued funnels for pouring boiling water down the bore, and they had small screen pullthroughs for scrubbing out red rust. Oil after cleaning.
corrosive ammo is mostly bad if you already have a high humidity in the room that you store your gun in. if its a dry place then it wont matter much anyway. since water is, of course, needed for the rusting to take place effectively so maybe you should place it somewhere with a bit more humidity. like your garage?
What did the bore look like on that rifle? I have a 91-30 that I shot a bunch of surplus corrosive stuff in int and didn't clean it for a couple of weeks and the bore is pitted terribly. I'll probably have to replace the barrell.
How did the bore look? I've seen some pretty nasty bores of guns whose owners weren't educated in the effects of corrosive ammunition. It sucks, but it's the nature of the beast that is owning milsurps...
figure its a good idea to put some windex down gas tube and barrel, dry with a few patches and follow with some hoppes elite t3 before i drive 2 hours home to do a full clean like in vid? Or would i be ok throwing gun in bag and cleaning thoroughly when i get home?
Iraqvet8888 so is it your opinion that shooting the surplus "corrosive" stuff is pretty much fine as long as you clean after each use? I have an SKS and a Mosin Nagant and that Eastern Block surplus stuff is very tempting.....just don't want to ruin my rifles. Maybe just good ammo just to store away in case of SHTF?
I have a sks in the same condition as yours but it has been sitting longer than a month Mine has been down for a couple years. How did you clean the barrel and what did you use.
Sks noob here, are “steel-blued” barrels chrome lined as well? Not that I’m going to neglect my rifle, I’d just rather do it when I can instead of organizing my life around cleaning my gun.
god, how does the priming powder get into the trigger assembly? I just shot about 100 rounds through my SVT-40 and didn't think I had to clean my trigger assembly... time to re-clean....
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Every time I watch your videos I get so jealous... in our country we aren't allowed to have these beautiful guns. Please keep fighting always for your right to bear arms.
Greetings from Argentina.
This may be changing with your new leader in 2024. Am I correct? ;)
Holy crap. Good on you for having the balls to do this...I've been known to skip meals in order to get mine clean as soon as possible.
I bought a Chinese type 56 SKS for $50. The guy who sold it to me complained of double and triple fires when he would go to the range. I got it out of the stock and started cleaning. It became obvious that he had never cleaned it! The firing pin was wedged forward from all the caked up carbon inside. Getting the upper hand guard off was difficult due to all the grit. Cleaned up nice though and shoots just fine now :-)
PCShogun and you could probs sell it for $900-1200 today
NotAMethDealer Not in America.
NotAMethDealer
judging that you can find them online for around 200 dollars, 300 with tapco assembly...i don't think he can sell his for that much....
@@joshinez8005 no way can you find an SKS Type 56 for 300 anywhere. I've been searching for months and the best I could find was around 450, but the rifle was beat to hell. They are not easy to come by..
@@user-mq1up2fw4r can find them for 299 to 340 in new Brunswick canada cheap gun here
Wish I had 2200 rounds to rust my gun up with lol
XLARGE lmao right. you can barely even find surplus ammo and if you do its too expensive.
abraham m Reload your own ammo.
@@abrahamm1325 not in canada lol we get chinese
Tulammo is cheap. It’s 40 round for 12 dollars from where I’m at. Only a dollar more then a 20 round box of 223. It’s pretty inexpensive.
@@ryanwaterman3473 > Reload your own ammo
> most if not all surplus ammo is berdan primed
yeah good luck with that one chief.
corrosive ammo is not a horrible thing to shoot out of your rifle, you just have to clean it really well after you shoot it. i shoot military surplus ammo with my mosin nagant and it is vary accurate. after im done shooting i just use some windex with ammonia on the barrel, bolt, and magazine then use a bore brush down the barrel, a few patches then some oil and i don't have a spot of rust on it
Hoppes #9 It was created with Corrosive in mind. Otherwise any ammonia based household cleaner will do when dealing with a firearm that has fired corrosive ammo
+Albert Ferri what the fuck? You just walk around spitting good facts and think it's ok?
+Albert Ferri Hoppes #9 current formula (both oil and bore cleaner)
DO NOT!!!! account for corrosive salts. I found out the hard way.
Ammonia is not good for corrosive salts, the water in the windex is what does the job, the ammonia just helps the water evap. quicker.
the ammonia WILL mess up your wood on your older guns, especially a with a nice oil finish...
Just use a spray bottle with water, while the barrel is WARM, not scalding hot.
+Albert Ferri Ive used wd 40 on my mosin.
I have used WD 40 and Hoppes 9 together pretty successfully. I haven't fired corrosive ammo in nearly 20 yrs but I have two tins of 440 rds of it for my Mosin. My general rule of thumb is that I'll still fire in a bolt action but I don't want to mess around with anything semi-auto and corrosives. There's just too many nooks and crannies and a gas operating system that can be missed
Don't get me wrong I'm pretty good getting them clean. But the older I get the worse my eyesight is becoming and I would hate to ruin a perfectly good semi auto
how did the bore look? actually for all that ammo and lack of cleaning it still looked really good. A lot better than I would have expected.
my baby watched this video and the first words he ever spoke were...wust, wust.
Gonna know what NOT to let on his guns!
; )
this makes me so sad to see a rifle in this condition.
+AllOrNothinEnt Collectors would disagree with you...
+AllOrNothinEnt It's not well used, it's just plain neglected. I'm curious why he did it with a nice sks and not a cheap(er) Nagant.
New drinking game, every time Eric says surface rust or stuff do a shot.
+Randy or okay in most video😀
+Cutlery Addiction I can drink like a fish, but I'll admit, I'd be plastered walking backwards by the 4 minute mark.
2 minutes in I am drunk
How about every time he says he left this rifle without cleaning it "on purpose". I get that. You get that. Eric is just a bit sensitive about having a dirty firearm. Good man.
Needs more SURFACE RUST
1400 rounds through mine since cleaning over a 6 month period in british columbia humidity. Only problem I had was the firing pin sticking forward once which is more of an advantage in my eyes :)
Even when I let my friends fire a few mags through my AR, I always tear down the whole bolt carrier and clean the whole upper. When I test fired 5 rounds in my XD .45 after changing the firing pin spring. I completely cleaned it after
Just terrible
It would be interesting to see what happened to the bore itself and the gas tube. I doubt all that surface rust on other parts would prevent it from working well.
Point taken on this video...I appreciate your sacrifice. I've got some of that corrosive ammo, and I was curious about what might happen. Thanks for making this video!
"nice" and "rust" are 2 words I would not normally use in the same sentence. :o)
it's nice that there's no rust on my gun.
dutchsouthernrockfan Much better :o)
rust is not nice
unless you're looking for a good rat rod body....
That chipped extractor looks like an old damage, the edges seems rounded off from post-break wear
That went through my head too.
+J. Dana Clark yeah, seemed like it broke off too cleanly, as opposed to it disintegrating away
its probably been like that since 1952... no need to replace it but masewell throw money on the fire "for safetys sake"
Note:The bore/breech on an sks, or ak variant are usually CHROME LINED. No damage occurs to the chrome lining, it will clean up like new with oil and brush. if the entire gun surface was chrome plated you could shoot corrosive ammo and never see rust or corrosion.
Not true.
Thanks, gives us a good idea of how soon the damage can set in with corrosive ammo. I felt guilty when I let my Mosin go 2-3 days after shooting 60 rounds of corrosive in the past, and since then picked up some Russian Brown Bear non-corrosive. I only buy non-corrosive Brown Bear or Tula for my SKS.
I shoot one of my Mosins pretty regularly, about 40 rounds per week, with only corrosive ammo and never clean it. Haven't cleaned it since I first bought it over a year ago. It's still doing fine. Some surface rust but nothing some gun oil wont wipe off. Bore is still decent too. Not sure if its because it is shot regularly or what.
'Simple Green' never really worked that well w/ me; I've always used Hoppes #9 solvent and/or Ballistol as soon as reasonably possible, usually the same day. Works great!
2 parts liquid Ballistol, 8 parts water, mix in spray bottle. Used it for years on both black powder and corrosive ammo. Spray parts thoroughly and allow to soak for a few minutes. Clean, lubricate and re-assemble. What we did in he Army, I still do- the next day, tear down again, wipe parts, lubricate as necessary and re-assemble. You will be surprised what soaks out of the cracks during the night.
I did the same with nearly the exact same amount of rounds and time left sitting after shooting. My M59's barrel was coated with rust. I'm talking bad. I had to put a cleaning rod on my drill with a wire brush on the end and let the barrel soak overnight in CLR. After A LOT of elbow grease, I got it back to shooting condition. That's learning the hard way what corrosive ammo does to a non-chrome lined barrel!
what does the inside of the bore look like?
Yeah Ive always wondered that myself. I mean, 2200 rounds is a lot to go through even in a semi automatic rifle. Take into account how much slower a bolt rifle is and you gotta have a relatively small number.
"Nice Coat of Surface Rust" Love this guy!
I use Hoppe's # 9 solvent followed by a light coat of oil. It is best to do the cleaning as soon as possible after a firing session. The simple green and water are for after a firearm has been neglected. Oil and water don't mix, and the water will cause rust in its own right, so a water cleaning should be followed by a good cleaning and oiling. The Hoppe's is an excellent solvent for corrosive ammo cleanup, but the main point is that you need to do your cleaning ASAP after firing.
I don't strip down my bolt guns either...I scrub the bore for copper and powder fouling, clean the bolt face, and reapply lube as required on the lugs and sear, then reassemble. If the rifle is exceeding fouled, I'll run a doused patch of hoppes 9 and let it sit overnight, then reengage the next day. My 03A3 still shoots pretty damn well out to 400 yards even with me behind the trigger
I remember the first time I ever fired my SKS, it was with corrosive surplus ammo and fortunately I was with a friend familiar with that ammo who made me clean the rifle in a bathtub full of warm water & soap. That worked fairly well followed by a thorough drying which was then followed by a light oiling with CLP. Even with regular ammo, it's not a bad idea to do this type of cleaning now and then to remove old gunk in small areas as long as you make sure to it well dry and oil it afterwards.
An easy thing to do when You're shooting corrosive surplus ammo is to bring a thermos full of hot water, a small funnel and a few cleaning tools along with you when You go shooting. When You're done, pull the bolt out and pour hot water down the barrel and wash off the bolt, then dry and run a couple oiled patches through and over everything. The water washes out the corrosive salts, leaving nothing to damage the metal.
When are you going to do an sks torture test?
I have yugo sks and my buddy has a almost new issue grade russian sks, he must have found some corrosive ammo and put a couple boxes through it. he called me up and asked if I would clean it for him, well after bringing it home i saw what i was in for as he had not cleaned it in about a year. Chamber, bolt, gas tube, receiver ext all had huge amounts of surface rust, well 4 hours latter lets just say he owes me a couple beers lol
your a nice guy!
Sounds like an abusive "friend". Keep an eye out for his willingness to help you.
ZdenekJindra no, he literally does not know how to fully disassemble an sks lol
nmdiesel89 I know you already know this, but your friend needs to learn at least how to field strip and clean his weapon. If/when the SHTF, his life and those he protects, will depend on him... not you, my friend.
Pk Spence oh I'm tracking, I sat him down and showed him a step by step.
Where do I get that elbow grease you mentioned? j/k :-)
well, the ammo has a primer that has chemicals that when ignited leave a residue of corrosive salts. Most often these primers have potassium chlorate, or sodium petrochlorate which, when burned, decompose into potassium chloride or sodium chloride.Sodium chloride is also known as common table salt.The good side to that is the bulets last much longer,than non corrosive
That must have taken a lot of patience to think "I'm going to let this sit and rust, just so that I can show the viewers how important cleaning and inspecting is."
Thankfully, you knew how to correct the situation.
Thanks for the sacrifice to keep us educated.
12 years later and I gotta say, you're doing God's work by making this video friend
I would also mention that spray lubricant/protectant (Rem Oil in my case) is great to get rid of small patches of surface rust. Dirties up a patch quite well.
I was shooting surplus 5.45 and left the piston dirty for a couple days. When I came back, there was huge pockets of rust that had formed all over. It even left pits on the shaft of the piston and it is made from stainless.
@Iraqveteran8888 I have a Savage model 4 C that was my grandpas, it has been in my family for four or five generations now. Atleast I'm fifth generation to ever shoot it. It had not been cleaned once and would never eject bullet. I spent four hours, an entire bottle of solvent, over 100 patches and its working like brand new, their was so much lead fowling that you could barely see any rifeling, now its dead accurate at 150 yards, and works like a charm, just shows that cleaning does help
Just wondering, as I'm fairly new to firearms ownership, how would you properly clean a rifle (preferably AK style) after using corrosive surplus ammo? I want to try and prevent rust build up like this.
What about the condition of the bore? I understand they are chrome lined barrels.
+Mike Dunn Yugo PAP (SKS) are not chrome lined barrels.
metalhead2508 Ok, but i say that Yugo weapons have not chrome lined barrels, i am from form Yugoslavia Bosnia and Hercegovina). What about Norinco, quallity, i can buy Type 56-1, but i dont know anything about Chinese rifles, what you thinking, its about 160 dolars here, milled reciver ?
metalhead2508 I shot with it, recoil is very low, but it is very loud. Yes it is little bit heavy, but its ok, and its military grade rifle, not for civilian, it has full auto option on triger.
Only what i see is the barrel have some pitting inside, it is chrome lined, but have some pitting, i dont like that to see, but it shot very good, i realy like that low recoil :), and i think the price is very good.
Sorry for my English, i never learned English i School, only over movies, please sorry
!!!!!
metalhead2508 Thank you man a lot, you help me realy. I don't need precise ak, but i want reliable rifle, i love guns, so it must be very nice. I have also Zastava M57 from my Father, from the Balkan wars, he was in war and that pistol is very important to me. I probably will buy that ak, New Year is coming, i am muslim, not celebrate, but i have chance to shot, becasue fireworks is everywhere haha. It is real norinco type, it has markings 56-1, milled reciver, collapsible stock, all serial numbers are matching. On reciver have markings D and L, D full auto and L is single shot. It have and plastic furniture, not wood. I think it is real Norinco. Cheers good man !
Just saw a Russian 1950 SKS with no chrome barrel. It seems like the Russians only started chroming them from 51 or 52.
My SKS gas piston rusted BADLY. It created a thick fur coat of rust. I shot it in a rain and forgot to disassemble/clean the gas piston part. Had to sandpaper it off, no amount of oil and rubbing with cloth would remove the rust. Took a couple of weeks. I cleaned and oiled the rest of the gun the same evening and it's still shiny.
Good video. You are right about proper, timely cleaning, but I have cleaned some AR's right after the range and there was much more carbon, but no rust. All in all, that Yugo ammo seems pretty clean! I once loaned a Chilean Mauser to a buddy, who shot corrosive ammo through it, and didn't bother to clean it. Had I known he was using old, surplus ammo; I would have never let him use it. He finally brought it back (after 2 months), not cleaned. I found the bore was pitted when I cleaned it.
This is a great video! Thank you so much for making that sacrifice of that rifle for our education. One question: How well does simplegreen and water really work? I would have guessed that the water aspect might cause the gun to rust further? Is there a ratio of simplegreen:water that you go by to keep the solution gun-friendly and rust-free?
I use pure simple green in a small plastic container with a locking lid to clean the bolt, carrier, small gas piston rod and spring, etc. It works REALLY well. Put the parts in, shake it up, and let it sit for a few minutes. The simple green turns brown right in front of you...
I used your suggestion from one of your videos a long time ago regarding corrosive ammo. I pour a little Birchwood Casey Muzzle Magic #77 into the chamber and barrel and run nylon brush through it a couple of times before heading home from the range. Works like a charm every time. Thanks again.
Gun Gripes! Eric and Berry I'll be seeing you guys in July, headed that way for a trip through Atlanta on up to Nashville. I think I'm gonna buy a PLR 16 from yall. Can't wait to see you guys and God bless!
The harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner works a ton better than scrubbing the small parts. Just set it and come back 10mins later and parts come out perfectly cleaned.
Eric, I was wondering how many parts Simple Green to water. I read somewhere that when shooting corossive ammo spraying a little windex down the barrel to clean it will get rid of the corrosive salts that the corrosive primers give off.I believe it is the amonia in the Windex that does it. Excellent video as always.
I have a VZ 58 that I only fire surplus corrosive ammo through. I clean it after every shoot with boiling water. I pour it right down the barrel and then use a brass brush and jags. I have never had a problem with the firearm. I love the cheap ammo!
thank you for doing this video eric. Not very many people would risk their weapon to educate others. It also gives an idea into exactly what corrosive ammo does and how long you have before damage is done
Yes, your basically right(All you really need is hot water) the need for soap(Or a bottle of ammonia..Windex is basically all water) is just to help break up the oils that could be covering the salts.
Norinco surplus has not been corrosive since the late sixties. I shot 750 bullets from factory 71, production year 1996, and about 550 rounds from factory 61, production year 2002. Cleaned the AK about 2 times in the stretch of a year and a half and there was ZERO corrosion. Rounds not super accurate, but I wont miss a human at 200 - 250 meters. Shot it with Norinco Type56S, and to date it have never botched a cycle. The 750 1996 bullets was lacquer coated and the rest copper washed.
how much to re-parkerize something? I'm needing an AR upper and lower (both stripped) and maybe a barrel?
I had a never fired Russian surplus Mosin-Nagant, which I loaned to a friend. He fired about 20 rounds and put it away. I got it back from him about a year later. When I cleaned it, the Bore looked like it had grown a fur coat. I cleaned and scrubbed the bore till all deposits were gone. After cleaning, the bore was nice and shiny. The rifling was almost completely gone. It looked a lot like a pitted shotgun barrel. My beautiful Mosin was worthless. The lesson is, clean early after shooting corrosive ammo!
How about just using non corrosive ammo instead?
@@ziggyz2958 880 rounds for the mosin used to be sub 200 dollars a number of years back. That's why.
@Matthew Smith, rubbing alcohol will just take off the oils from your hands, and dry up old oil from the action. I suggest CLP, or M Pro 7, but Rubbing alcohol will dry up old oils, and it will not harm the finish.
@DeanMLFlame A trick for shortening the cleaning: run something with ammonia and water through it, like windex or hot soapy water with your bore mop. The ammonia will eat through the corrosive salts and the water will wash it out. Give it a dry patch run after
You don't even need soap. The corrosiveness from surplus ammo comes from salt (much like how salted roads can eat away at the metal of your car), and hot water alone can dissolve that. You could use soap though it's not really necessary, but something like hot water+Ballistol or CorrosionX is still much better as it washes away the salt and prevents rusting as well.
how do you feel on the bolt mod in which you mill down on each side of the bolt to allow the after market 20 and 30 round mags to be remover while the bolt is still forward
I’ve used plenty of this corrosive 7.62x39 ammo and I’ve had no issues. I always clean my firearms after every use regardless of what ammo i put through it.
It's not a Yugo SKS. The rifle is a Chinese Norinco SKS-D with a shorter barrel and AK style muzzle break. When he said Yugo in the video he was referring to the surplus ammo he was shooting.
I fired 80 rounds of corrosive ammunition out of my new Russian SKS and let it sit a couple months until I went to cleaning it. The front of the bolt and the barrel was pretty rusted up. I didn’t think 80 rounds would cause this, I will make sure I Clean it every time now!
I think the rust issue with corrosive ammo is overstated for the average shooting experience. 2200 rounds before cleaning is a pretty exceptional circumstance outside of warfare. I've shot dozens of rounds of corrosive ammo out of my SKS and SVT40, not cleaned it for months over the winter, and found no rust at all in the spring when I cleaned it before hitting the range. Not cleaning it for that long was in itself an exceptional circumstance, and I was expecting to find a rusty mess, but nothing. Not a spot.
was the chipped extractor a result of of structural damage from the rust or just something that happened?
maybe the area you keep it in is not idea, you want a very dry and mild temperature room to keep it in, and generally the barrel oiled up if your going for long term storage, i try to store mine in special container, wrap it in cellophane and then dump cheap dry rice around it, and that keeps it pretty good.
I'm kinda thinking of picking up an SKS for a cheap marksmanship trainer. $220 for a NOS one at the hardware store here in Canada.
I'm very picky about cleaning my fine sporting arms, but with one of these I'd honestly just rinse it all out with the garden hose, swab out the barrel and gas tube, dry it with compressed air, and hose it off with seafoam or remoil. It may sound bad, but I just wouldn't really care enough about a cheap Chinese surplus rifle to spend an hour or two swabbing and wiping off every speck of dirt .
Everybody used corrosive primers back then probably as a cost thing though I'm told the US switched to non-corrosive for their military ammo in the 1950's and I believe the Soviets started the changeover in the late 1970's-early 1980's. I just field strip my SKS and give the parts a good scrub with hot soapy water when I get home from the range followed by a thorough soaking with WD-40 and then clean and re-oil as I would any other rifle.
Try pouring boiling hot water down the barrel, gas system and working parts, then lightly lube afterwards, I have always done this and it works well.
As a general question, why can't you parkerize the receiver? I was looking to do exactly that with mine.
Would just using solvent take off the rust?
Are you going to coat it wiith oil before reassembling, will the water cause it to rust again?
Sorry for asking so many questions.
ok well i got the colt XM duracoat, so i can do that then, how much for just the barrel in grey?
Simple Green. It's a common degreaser, it can be found in any well stocked auto supply shop or hardware store.
It is the chemicals in the primer that is corrosive, not the powder. I agree that using water to clean a firearm is a really bad idea because it accelerates oxidation. If you have to use it, put dishwashing soap which makes it alkaline and acts as a surfactant. Never use drain cleaner. Those products are usually phosphoric acid based. If you put 2200 rounds of anything through a firearm and leave it uncleaned for 3 months, you are going to get rust. Whether I shoot 50 or 500 rounds, I always clean my firearm within 48 hours. Even if you do not shoot your firearm at all, you need to clean it periodically due to ambient atmospheric moisture which can cause rust.
It's a detergent, and a mild solvent. Used for cleaning up greasy messes and burnt on food, like powder residue.
Would it be advisable to bake all of the metal parts at say 200-300 degrees to completely dry the metal or would that be overkill? I work in the semiconductor industry and have learned that steel can hold onto moisture for a very long time at room temp unless it's "baked out."
SKSs have chrome lined bores, generally are not attacked by corrosive primers.
I noticed you didn't clean the bore of the barrel. It that not necessary after using corrosive ammo?
in fact, the AA-12 does not need to be cleaned after use, because it was made to enter the water, mud, sand, all without locking ...
I didn’t see him clean the bore of the rifle. Did I miss something here? Since the corrosive ammo attacks the surface of the bore, don’t you want to clean the bore as well?
People think because you have an ak-47 or sks that you don’t have to clean them but fact of the matter is no matter what firearm you have you must keep them clean to prolong their life and function
Would spring will rust further after coming in contact with water ?
Question- The SKS model D: how can you tell that you are buying this model. Is the model number on the side of the gun? Thanks for your help. Leo Wolf
Good video. Corrosive ammo is cheap and reliable. It was the standard for most of the 20th Century. It will ruin a weapon if not cleaned but its not as horrible as gun writers say. Boiling water and dish soap will stop most corrosive action. British made ammo is the most corrosive I have ever seen, yet Enfields have dark but good bores. They issued funnels for pouring boiling water down the bore, and they had small screen pullthroughs for scrubbing out red rust. Oil after cleaning.
How do you prevent rust on the trigger group?
there are a lot of surfaces and hard-to-reach areas.
I thought I read somewhere that you don't like the Murray's firing pin and spring... Do I have that right? If so, why don't you like it?
I am here in bc too and have 1000 through mine and did a light clean 1 year later still no rust.
And about the receivers, Forged is not always better, yes it is heavier and more sought after in the AKs but it is also a bit more brittle.
corrosive ammo is mostly bad if you already have a high humidity in the room that you store your gun in. if its a dry place then it wont matter much anyway. since water is, of course, needed for the rusting to take place effectively
so maybe you should place it somewhere with a bit more humidity. like your garage?
What did the bore look like on that rifle? I have a 91-30 that I shot a bunch of surplus corrosive stuff in int and didn't clean it for a couple of weeks and the bore is pitted terribly. I'll probably have to replace the barrell.
How did the bore look? I've seen some pretty nasty bores of guns whose owners weren't educated in the effects of corrosive ammunition. It sucks, but it's the nature of the beast that is owning milsurps...
Nice video! Did the gun have any problems at all cycling the corrosive ammo, even during the last few hundred rounds? Thanks!
figure its a good idea to put some windex down gas tube and barrel, dry with a few patches and follow with some hoppes elite t3 before i drive 2 hours home to do a full clean like in vid?
Or would i be ok throwing gun in bag and cleaning thoroughly when i get home?
Iraqvet8888 so is it your opinion that shooting the surplus "corrosive" stuff is pretty much fine as long as you clean after each use? I have an SKS and a Mosin Nagant and that Eastern Block surplus stuff is very tempting.....just don't want to ruin my rifles. Maybe just good ammo just to store away in case of SHTF?
Eric, why don't you run it till
it stops ejecting with the chipped ejector?. See how long it will still perform.
I have a sks in the same condition as yours but it has been sitting longer than a month Mine has been down for a couple years. How did you clean the barrel and what did you use.
Hey Vet, what do you use to clean the corrosive ammo?
Great video btw
Sks noob here, are “steel-blued” barrels chrome lined as well? Not that I’m going to neglect my rifle, I’d just rather do it when I can instead of organizing my life around cleaning my gun.
Will Hoppe's #9 work as well? It's designed to dissolve corrosive salts.
god, how does the priming powder get into the trigger assembly? I just shot about 100 rounds through my SVT-40 and didn't think I had to clean my trigger assembly... time to re-clean....
I don't know much about the SKS, does the "D" have a chrome lined barrel? I hope so.
You should look into getting one of Murray's firing pins. I won't use any other pin in mine.