Thank you for this video upload. I have the erwin manual as you. Pita removing this bugger on cffb engine. I will remove alternator to get more space, and also throttle body. I hate working in tight spaces...I have previously reckoned that the time I spend on trying to find the best tool combo to remove bolt, nuts and screws, I just as well could follow the workshop manual in the first place and actually saved some time. But I must agree to previous comments here that Valeo has made this a really, really f....pain in the a... job, taking me more than 4 hours.... Did the job on a vw 1.9tdi PD, and that took me just under 2 hours coolant bleeding included. So obviously something has dramatically changed building vag engines. Also, I do believe that once the throttle body is disconnected and removed, it is recommended to do a basic setting alignment of the throttle body with vcds.
Hi. I have managed to unscrew it without having an alternator touched. I have used simple closed end spanner to slack the bolt then squeezed a rubber hose on the screw head and unscrew it. I have removed air intake manifold too. This significantly improves access. Engine was not heated due to thermostat fault and a lot of deposit settled inside the manifold. I have cleaned it BTW. The worst problem is a bolt that keeps a plastic pipe one needs to pull towards air filter to release it from the thermostat. To gain access to you need to remove: air filter body, intercooler pipe, intake pipe, several rubber pipes and even a gearbox gear selector bracket! Working on top and bottom of the vehicle I wish VAG moron engineer did the job twice a day!
Thanks for the tutorial. I’m currently struggling with an intercooler pipe. Torx holes are damaged. The designer of this shit should do this job everyday for a minimum 1 year
Holy crap i just removed 2 thermostat screws from my 2.0 cfgc engine yesterday without stripping anything from the engine and it takes around 2h cause its so tight there.... after watching this video i'll leave it till next weekend cause its not that easy as i thought it will 🫥 Thanks for that, otherwise i'll probably trying to replace it today and will stay without the car as is my only one now and need it to work tomorrow. Crap.
Many thanks for the extremely detailed tutorial. I followed this today and successfully replaced the thermostat. The car's temperature was only getting up to about 65 - 70 degrees before and with the replacement the temperature stays at 90 degrees. I have a new problem now though, the car only took 4 litres of coolant back into the system and I squeezed the hoses for a long time trying to get all the air out and the reservoir bubbled for a while until it would not release anymore air. I took it for a drive and noticed the oil temperature rising, it got to 112 degrees before I decided to return home and stop. The oil temp has only ever reached 101 degrees before today. I can't get anymore air out of the system and the reservoir is up to max and stays there. Also I previously didn't have much heat inside the car, but after the thermostat change the air got hot inside the car, but then started to drop to just warm again on its own. Struggling with this one!
@@mfkfx5807 not yet, still working on it. Since the thermostat, I've changed the water pump, expansion tank and cap (incase of any leaks there) and also the oil level/temperature sensor in the sump. These things did not fix it the high oil temperature. Oh I also found a blocked pipe, the small radiator return hose to the expansion bottle was completely blocked which is why I wasn't seeing any coolant coming back into the expansion tank. I've checked as many hoses as possible for any further blockages and the next job is to change the oil cooler as this is also likely to be blocked.
@@Jay-nm7bo radiator was replaced last year and yes I think the heater matrix is partially blocked due to low heat however this shouldn't affect the high oil temperature as it's bypassed when switching to cold air.
There is also at coolant thermostat for the dsg located under the battery tray. That part is also known for making troubles with no heat in car. Check that out as well. Costs maybe 10-15 gbp to replace. And is an easy replacement compared to the 4/2 way thermostat
Hi great video. I have the similar VW TDI 2.0 CFF engine, that have the problem of temperature only going upto 75 degrees. It now winter where I stay it takes long to warmup. I am thinking of doing this job. Does this car with a manual transmission like this one not have the 2nd thermostat like the DSG transmission?
Just a small hint regarding the bottom 10mm bolt of the thermostat housing. There was no way this bolt could be reached and unscrew in any normal procedure since the thermostat was leaking and it was stuck. I ended up breaking the thermostat housing since it was going to be replaced. Tightening it was much easier. So, after you remove the top one and after trying the bottom one and it does not come undone simply brake the thermostat housing that you are going to replace anyway.
This one of the most complex thermostat replacement in VAG ever. Ever since Valeo started making parts for VAG it's pain like repairing french shit cars . Previously in bosch design thermostat cost 4-5gbp and took two screws and 5minutes to replace. Valeo shit require 4hours of striping the parts with "french" design. Parts once taken off can't be fitted etc . Here Thermostat design is so stupid it needs 10mm moving to the left and hence why alternator needs to be unscrewed and moved away. I have removed the intake housing, I did not removed anything on the side of the engine. The screw behind the oil filter is the biggest pain and can't be put back quickly. 10mm movement required is shown in 26:50 so it can be done either way I guess. Fuel system unplugged needs bleeding with vagcom/vcds otherwise engine won't start. Thermostat housing may look the same but different engine codes have different bottom pipe at a different angle- stupid french shit. Before you did this work check if you don't have another small Thermostat (cooling with dsg) over the gearbox it cost 10gbp instead of 56gbp and its a lot easier to replace first.
Funnily enough I didn’t know it was a Valeo design. I was thinking that looks very French to be honest and surprise, surprise it apparently is! I had this job done yesterday at my mechanics shop. Much too complicated for me. They also changed the Auto thermostat as well. Mine wasn’t over heating, just took ages to warm up and wouldn’t get to 90 degrees. Runs fine now so happy that’s out of the way. Feel sorry for the mechanics that have to do this torture. Stupid design indeed.
Yes, in this video, only the tutorial for the thermostat removal is shown. Some people may only need the instruction on how to remove the thermostat. Thanks again for watching our channel.
![Thermostat replacement on a VW PASSAT B7 saloon - problem-solving [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Yad6RwyO_Og/mqdefault.jpg)
![Thermostat replacement on a VW PASSAT B7 saloon – problem-solving [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](/img/tr.png)
Thank you for this video upload. I have the erwin manual as you. Pita removing this bugger on cffb engine. I will remove alternator to get more space, and also throttle body. I hate working in tight spaces...I have previously reckoned that the time I spend on trying to find the best tool combo to remove bolt, nuts and screws, I just as well could follow the workshop manual in the first place and actually saved some time. But I must agree to previous comments here that Valeo has made this a really, really f....pain in the a... job, taking me more than 4 hours.... Did the job on a vw 1.9tdi PD, and that took me just under 2 hours coolant bleeding included. So obviously something has dramatically changed building vag engines. Also, I do believe that once the throttle body is disconnected and removed, it is recommended to do a basic setting alignment of the throttle body with vcds.
Thanks for watching our channel. 100% agree.
Hi. I have managed to unscrew it without having an alternator touched. I have used simple closed end spanner to slack the bolt then squeezed a rubber hose on the screw head and unscrew it.
I have removed air intake manifold too. This significantly improves access. Engine was not heated due to thermostat fault and a lot of deposit settled inside the manifold. I have cleaned it BTW.
The worst problem is a bolt that keeps a plastic pipe one needs to pull towards air filter to release it from the thermostat. To gain access to you need to remove: air filter body, intercooler pipe, intake pipe, several rubber pipes and even a gearbox gear selector bracket! Working on top and bottom of the vehicle
I wish VAG moron engineer did the job twice a day!
Thanks for the tutorial. I’m currently struggling with an intercooler pipe. Torx holes are damaged.
The designer of this shit should do this job everyday for a minimum 1 year
Thanks for watching our channel
Holy crap i just removed 2 thermostat screws from my 2.0 cfgc engine yesterday without stripping anything from the engine and it takes around 2h cause its so tight there.... after watching this video i'll leave it till next weekend cause its not that easy as i thought it will 🫥
Thanks for that, otherwise i'll probably trying to replace it today and will stay without the car as is my only one now and need it to work tomorrow. Crap.
Thanks for watching our channel
Many thanks for the extremely detailed tutorial. I followed this today and successfully replaced the thermostat. The car's temperature was only getting up to about 65 - 70 degrees before and with the replacement the temperature stays at 90 degrees. I have a new problem now though, the car only took 4 litres of coolant back into the system and I squeezed the hoses for a long time trying to get all the air out and the reservoir bubbled for a while until it would not release anymore air. I took it for a drive and noticed the oil temperature rising, it got to 112 degrees before I decided to return home and stop. The oil temp has only ever reached 101 degrees before today. I can't get anymore air out of the system and the reservoir is up to max and stays there. Also I previously didn't have much heat inside the car, but after the thermostat change the air got hot inside the car, but then started to drop to just warm again on its own. Struggling with this one!
Have you managed to solve the problem?
@@mfkfx5807 not yet, still working on it. Since the thermostat, I've changed the water pump, expansion tank and cap (incase of any leaks there) and also the oil level/temperature sensor in the sump. These things did not fix it the high oil temperature. Oh I also found a blocked pipe, the small radiator return hose to the expansion bottle was completely blocked which is why I wasn't seeing any coolant coming back into the expansion tank. I've checked as many hoses as possible for any further blockages and the next job is to change the oil cooler as this is also likely to be blocked.
Have you check radiator and heater matrix for blockage or debris,?
@@Jay-nm7bo radiator was replaced last year and yes I think the heater matrix is partially blocked due to low heat however this shouldn't affect the high oil temperature as it's bypassed when switching to cold air.
There is also at coolant thermostat for the dsg located under the battery tray. That part is also known for making troubles with no heat in car. Check that out as well. Costs maybe 10-15 gbp to replace. And is an easy replacement compared to the 4/2 way thermostat
Hi great video. I have the similar VW TDI 2.0 CFF engine, that have the problem of temperature only going upto 75 degrees. It now winter where I stay it takes long to warmup. I am thinking of doing this job. Does this car with a manual transmission like this one not have the 2nd thermostat like the DSG transmission?
Just a small hint regarding the bottom 10mm bolt of the thermostat housing. There was no way this bolt could be reached and unscrew in any normal procedure since the thermostat was leaking and it was stuck. I ended up breaking the thermostat housing since it was going to be replaced. Tightening it was much easier. So, after you remove the top one and after trying the bottom one and it does not come undone simply brake the thermostat housing that you are going to replace anyway.
Thanks for watching our channel
What brand are your external hex triple square sockets? I can't seem to find the socket you show online.
Hi, how can I get the thermostat diagram? Thanks for the video.
Elsawin program
how much time did you spend
Thank you 😊
Thanks for watching our channel
Hi there, can you tell me how did you bleed the cooling system after refilling it, please. Kind regards
Thanks for watching our channel
Every step is shown in the video if you watch it to the end.
Thank you. One final question what is the VW part number for the O-ring (No 7) that goes onto one of the hoses (35:30)?Kind regards .
do you have the part number for the flat oring that goes behind the thermostat housing please at 36min 17 seconds on your video
It is shown in the video
I'm referring to the number 7 seal ,you show it in the bag but the numbers are impossible to see , thanks
Think I found it 331.270
Please sir, what is the repair manual software you are consulting, and where can I purchase it?
It is called Elsawin, I purchased on the Internet 5 years ago
This one of the most complex thermostat replacement in VAG ever. Ever since Valeo started making parts for VAG it's pain like repairing french shit cars . Previously in bosch design thermostat cost 4-5gbp and took two screws and 5minutes to replace. Valeo shit require 4hours of striping the parts with "french" design. Parts once taken off can't be fitted etc . Here Thermostat design is so stupid it needs 10mm moving to the left and hence why alternator needs to be unscrewed and moved away. I have removed the intake housing, I did not removed anything on the side of the engine. The screw behind the oil filter is the biggest pain and can't be put back quickly. 10mm movement required is shown in 26:50 so it can be done either way I guess. Fuel system unplugged needs bleeding with vagcom/vcds otherwise engine won't start. Thermostat housing may look the same but different engine codes have different bottom pipe at a different angle- stupid french shit. Before you did this work check if you don't have another small Thermostat (cooling with dsg) over the gearbox it cost 10gbp instead of 56gbp and its a lot easier to replace first.
Thanks for watching our channel. Yes, true, agree 100%.
Funnily enough I didn’t know it was a Valeo design. I was thinking that looks very French to be honest and surprise, surprise it apparently is!
I had this job done yesterday at my mechanics shop. Much too complicated for me. They also changed the Auto thermostat as well. Mine wasn’t over heating, just took ages to warm up and wouldn’t get to 90 degrees. Runs fine now so happy that’s out of the way. Feel sorry for the mechanics that have to do this torture. Stupid design indeed.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for watching 😊
Hello what is the software you use?
Nice video.
It is called Elsawin
This is the same video you uploaded the other day
Thanks for watching,😊
Yes, in this video, only the tutorial for the thermostat removal is shown. Some people may only need the instruction on how to remove the thermostat. Thanks again for watching our channel.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣