Shoot Vintage Lenses EASILY on Mirrorless Cameras! Adaptors, Speedboosters, Crop Factors Explained!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 10 июл 2024
- This episode shows how to use adaptors and speedboosters to mount vintage lenses on your mirrorless camera. It also looks at some of the manual focus lenses from China, specifically made for mirrorless cameras.
The Pixco speedbooster I used is the cheapest on the market - find out how it performs here!
Speedbooster: Pixco M42 to Fuji X Mount
Cameras: Fujifilm X-T1, Sony A7, Panasonic GH2
Lenses: Jupiter 8 50mm f2, Helios 44 58mm f2, Pentax Auto Takumar 55mm f1.8, Olympus 50mm f1.8
Help this channel to grow and develop at www.patreon.com/Zenography?fa...
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for creating such a very well explained easy to understand complete explanation for adapting otherwise incompatible lenses
Thanks, very glad it was helpful!
Another great video, many thanks. It is a very good explanation of all the basics, especially concerning the speed boosters. I started with vontage lenses on my MFT camera - and I love it. It gives back the "old" feeling with manual focus - and the lenses typically feel much better with all their real metal and glass.
Excellent, thanks for another great video.
I have been using adapters and Roxsen or Viltrox focal reducers with M42, Nikkor F and Canon FD vintage glass for years on M4/3 mirrorless (from the Lumix GX1 and OLY EM-10 to my current GX9 and G81 bodies).
Recently, I also purchased a RiseSpray (aka 7Artisans) 35mm/f0.95 for US$180 from AliEx. I was extremely impressed with the quality of this modern manual lens, as well as its performance.
My favorites, in addition to this modern manual lens, include the Helios 44-2 (58/2), Jupiter 3 (50/1.5), Jupiter 9 (85/2), Pentax Super Takumar 50/1.4, Auto Sears (Tomioka) 55/1.4, Porst 55/1.4, Canon FL 55/1.2, Nikkor (non-Ai) 55/1.2, MIR-24N 35/2, Mayer-Optik Gorlitz Oreston 50/1.8, Nikkor (non-Ai) 28/2, and Canon 135/2.5. Each has its use case and special character. All are terrific in their own way.
I look forward to this channel every week. Love this weeks topic. 🤙🏻
Please make a video explaining why c mount TV lens should be used on 4/3 cameras.
Excellent video, explaining a complex topic in simple terms and good demonstration. Thank you!
It's a great area to get into. I'm loving it and having great success with some old M42 mount Fuji lenses at the moment. Well worth looking at if you come across them. The 35mm, in particular, is excellent.
Simply a very good and easy to understand explanation. Highly recommended.
I’ve been waiting for this
All good things to those who wait, my friend!
Love these video’s definitely helped me understand a lot more and learn new things.... thank you 👍
With a Speedbooster you also get an extra stop of light...
I have been searching all day to find something about crop factor with vintage lenses.. thank you very much
Thanks, glad it was useful!
Thanks and greetings from Brazil!
Absolutely brilliant video and I haven’t even got to the end yet! ✌️
Many thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
This was so informative! I come from a film world. Digital has not interested me because it did not feel like film and I could not use my lenses. But I am looking at acquiring a Fujifilm camera for this purpose. Your video on the Fuji cameras was also spot on! 🙌🏼
"Bob, as they say, is your uncle." Thank you my man. Just now getting into lenses and you cleared any confusion I had up. How much fun to throw a Nikon lens onto a Pentax body, or whatever to whatever! I can't think of another technology that is so inclusive to old equipment.
Great video. Top man.
Thank you very much for this very good overview.
Really great content for beginners
Glad you think so!
Superb as always / Ulf
Thank you Ulf, I hope all's well with you! Thanks for tuning in again!
great show on my favourite channel
Great lecture, thank you!
Many thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
While I don't currently have a mirrorless camera, I enjoyed your presentation and always enjoy your style. Cheers!
Many thanks, I'm glad to hear it!
Good Morning, Nigel
Mirrorless Lens use 101 - for the new vintage lens to mirrorless camera user this must be the first video they watch.
Packed full of information, hints, tips and great advice.
This will certainly get the new user well on the road to using, and buying, vintage lenses, so if you are an experienced vintage user expect to see old lens prices go up yet again.
My advice? Buy as many vintage lenses as you can while they are at this price lol.
Great video yet again.
Good morning to you! I hope this video's helpful to new shooters!
Insightful video , cheers.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
There are a few articles on focal reducers. I think generally you get what you pay for. When I researched, I found the best appeared to be the Metabones Speed Booster. Which is what I bought. I use this with my CONTAX AX kit (Zeiss and fast TANRON lenses). The Metabones is sharp edge to edge. Happy to show you some results. Now I only shoot using my X-H1 and Metabones
I've heard the metabones reducers are very good - I'd love to see some samples too - email is zenography11@gmail.com
Really enjoying your channel.
Thanks, I'm glad to hear that!
Great explanation. There certainly are a great variety of adapters, I found one to adapt my Mamiya RB67 lens (50, 90 & 250mm) to an Olympus EM1 Mark ii. Odd looking set up but as you point out just another way to explore photography.
Indeed - it sounds like an interesting set up!
Great video 👍👍
I love my speedbooster, it let's more light in and I'm pretty sure it only has the 1 element, it's never off my aps-c canon m50! Sharpness is uniform throughout, using my Pancolar, Penracon 135mm and Takumars. I have not taken my helios 44-2 out with it yet.
Keep us the great work!
Hello... which speed booster have you got?
@@flavioserci6046 a pixco, I needed to spend 10 minutes or so adjusting it with an Allen key so get it to focus to infinity, but it's been absolutely fine.
Very handy video, this will help hugely with my XT1 and Helios 44-2!
Thanks for the great video as always
I have been shooting this combination all morning.
Many thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
It's a hard combination to beat, for sure!
@@zenography7923 Hope to see more in the future, my XT1 purchase was made after seeing your recent vid on it! Looking forward to its arrival.
@@dustysprockets1505 Good luck with your new old camera. I picked up an X-T1 a while back and loved it so much that I’ve added an old X-PRO1 to the mix too.
Fantastic
Thank you so much 😀
Great video. Beware the rabbit hole of vintage glass😂!
Indeed!
Wow! Steve Buscemi gives photo tipps!!!!!!!
One of my favourite actors!
Thank you for all of these highly informative and also extraordinarily pleasant videos. I've been trying out and switching around different vintage lenses for a few months now and your channel has helped me with quite some decision making so far. What I am still sort of struggling with is that, no matter what vintage lens I pop on to my adapters, they tend to focus slightly past infinity. I have read that most manufacturers tend to make their adapters slightly too short in order to provide infinity focus on all lenses. Therefore I was wondering if you or anyone else is dealing with the same "issue" or wether or not that even is something you would consider an issue. If there is a way around this, I would be very happy for any suggestions. Thanks
My favourite vintage lenses to use on MILCs are those off rangefinders cameras. On my Canon RP, I use a Summilux f1.4/50 off my Leica M3. The adapter is so thin, it makes the Canon easy to carry around!
Older lenses off my Leica IIIg are equally good. They only need a very thin adapter for the M mount, practically just a ring. So the Summicron f2/35, sitting on two adapters, has an even lower profile than the Summilux!
Brave old world!
Brave old world indeed! My screwmount Summitar works very nicely on the sony a7 - I haven't used it on the fuji xt1 yet, but I'm anticipating some nice results!
@@zenography7923 BTW FOTPFOX LM-NEX Close-focus Adapter could make your Summitar into a macro lens.
I never thought I could exactly see what the 21mm Super Angulon sees until I put on an adapter. 60+ year-old German rangefinder lenses acquire marco and TTL capabilities overnight through Made-in-China adapters! Curiouser and curiouser! ;-)
now you've done it, I'm going to have to buy a mirrorless camera and speed boosters and adapters to use with my vintage lenses to see how they compare with the dslr photos...
I like shooting nature (birds, squirrels, deer, etc). Auto focus would be much better, but I picked up a 300mm 4.5 Nikon non-AI lens from Japan in mint condition for about $100. The Nikon F to NEX adapter takes non-AI lenses. My A7 is giving this glass a new life and letting me commune with nature. 🙏🏽📷🙏🏽
An a7 and nice vintage glass is a hard combination to beat - enjoy!
Hello, amazing video you make!!!
You are the master of vintage lenses, I got a couple of Rolleinars QBM mount. Do you know if this lenses can be modded or using adaptors to Leica L, EF Canon or Nikon F mounts??? I have a Sigma Fp with a Leica L mount but I own also L to EF and L to Nikon F adapters. Im looking to buy some Zeiss QBM too. But everything I found on internet are not a very good option, adapters with a glass optics reduce the image quality.
I learned a few new tricks for my m 4/3 setup, thanks for the video! Speedboosters are intriguing, although I'm not sure I see options for Konica AR available yet. Cheers!
Glad it was useful, thanks!
Hi Nigel,
Thanks for this video, great as usual. I would appreciate some help from you. I use omd M1 mark ii mainly with speed boosters. I am happy with most of my lens (jenas, nikkor, ports color, pentacon…) but for some not too much, for exemple voigtlander 58 1.4 is flat with speed booster and pretty good without,Helios don’t swirl too much and I am getting nice results with projector lens direct with no speed booster. Overall, I am sensing I can get more from some of my vintage lens with a full frame and my question is about the sharpness ;
From your experience do you think I would get sharper or less sharp images with Mft, Mft + speed booster or full frame ?
Thank for your help, and please keep your great posts
You do of couse lose electrical contact, therefore full manual, focus peaking may help, Olympus do a converter with contact,s for earlier lenses, which are very cheap and a good alternative to latest expensive primes.
I didn't realise that, thanks for the tip!
Olympus Zuiko 50/1.8 or 50/1.4? Which one has less CA and more sharper at 1.8 aperture? The latest versions (non silver nose) interested.
Hi, thanks for that, this video got me started with vintage lenses on my Sony a7 and my Olympus m43 cameras around 6 months ago. Thanks. However, I have just bought a CZJ Tessar with an auto (A) switch and I cannot get it to change aperture either mounted or un mounted. Is there anything I am missing or do you think the lens is broken. It appears in immaculate condition otherwise. Sorry to bother you with this but I am happy to send it back if I am not missing something obvious. Cheers.
That booster does exist then, seen pictures of it as last images on eBay listing. Saying focal reducer . They sent standard hollow adapter, I was interested in it as I had just made something similar ,I would have liked to compare my effort with ,I wasn't prepared to pay metabones money. That's why I made my own, a 42 and a 39 , shockingly they both work.
Try the speed booster on full frame with the Helios 40 or 44, or a 28mm .
I'd really like to dismantle the £60 booster ,
The 7artisans 25mm 1.8 is very good and is happy close up, forgot I'd bought it as it was so cheap and it arrived at the same time as other gear, great little surprise. When I found it saying what the hell is this.
Thanks for great content on your channel. I am thinking about getting a Olympus E-P1 but I am not shure how easy my vintage Zuikos will match this camera, in terms of focusing and exposing. Do you know ?
The EP1 is a very nice little camera, but - it doesn't have focus peaking, which I find pretty much vital if shooting vintage lenses on mirrorless, at least I do these days! If that's not a problem it's a good camera, otherwise I'd suggest a later model, with peaking. Remember also that the EP cameras use a micro four thirds sensor, so any vintage lens you use will have a crop factor, eg a 50mm lens behaves as a 100mm lens. Not a problem necessarily, but best to be aware of it. It doesn't happen with full frame cameras, some of which are very cheap second hand, eg the Sony A7 - might be worth considering?
Hi, first let me congratulate you for your excellent channel.
I've two questions for you that I'm sure you can easily answer me.
After watching some of your videos I decided to buy an old soviet camera, the Kiev 4M with a Jupiter 8. Do you have any advises that you can give me about how to make the best of it?
My second question is about an adapter for my Fuji X-T20, can you point me in the right direction?
Thank you so much.
Kiev is a great camera and the best you can do is to buy film and shoot with it. You will have loads of fun getting used to the viewfinder and using a light meter. Jupiter 8 is an mazing little lens too, however the one from Kiev can't be adapted without the use of tools and an adapter ring fitting of your digital camera.
When you mount an Olympus Zuiko OM lens to a Sony or a Fujifilm camera, can the aperture of the lens be detected by the camera? The canon cameras I have the aperture value is always F00 when I mount the OM lenses. You can see the exposure in the live view display, but not in the optical viewfinder. Is this any different in the mirrorless cameras (sony/fujifilm) with their hybrid/electronic viewfinders?
They're all pretty much the same in that respect. When using older lenses on mirrorless, there is no electronic communication between the lens and camera, so the camera can't read the aperture setting as such - but used in aperture priority the camera measures the light from the lens, then sets the shutter speed accordingly. Hope that helps!
After five years of reading ( in my fav forum) about vintage lens its nice to have a complete break down of the process of getting started with adapting lenses, thanks for posting. I do have a question, I have bought into the olympus system with five pro lenses($$$$$) and was wondering if for example I wanted to pick up a fuji x-2 would I be able to adapt those lenses?
You certainly can - OM mount lenses can be adapted to all the Fuji X cameras!
@@zenography7923 Thanks for the reply , that is good news!
For the sunny 16 rule is it true I need to match my ISO as close as possible to the shutter speed on an argus a2f?
There's some great sunny 16 videos out there.
Very interesting video, can you recommend an Canon FD to Fuji X mount adapter and where could I get it from?
Search ebay or amazon for 'Canon fd to Fuji X mount' - you'll find there lots of them available, some cheap, some more expensive. I only ever use the cheap adaptors, and have had no problems with them.
good
Thanks!
True gentleman, subscribed. I have found a fuji xt1 without lens for 250 euros. I am thinking of buying it and using it with some manual lenses because fuji lenses are too expensive for me. Do you think it is a good deal in 2021? What should I watch for?
That's about the right price, as long as it's a good one. Check carefully for separation of the body covering from the body - quite common on this model.
There is even a Speedbooster that can adapt vintage autofocus lenses!
Did you need to adjust your pixco to get infinity in the right place, I managed it after a few minutes adjustment. 🙂
I have a Fuji X-T2 and some vintage yashica mount lenses. The only speed booster I can find for the combo is $480. I will probably buy a Sony A7 MK1 instead.
Get the Canon EF version and adapt all lenses to EF.
I’ve come to really like the Zuiko and Leica Mount, industar, Jupiter, on the X-T1 because of the narrower sizes of the adapter compared to the M42 and the Nikon F adapters. My only complaint is exactly what you tried to navigate with using these 35mm lenses with the cropped sensor. I love the 50mm range and most of my vintage lenses are of that size which is fine with the Nikon Z6. But with using the Fuji x and film simulations You need a 35mm to get about the same range and those are rare and more expensive. I’ve got a takumar but it’s a 3.5. Have been looking into the Chinese 35mm f1.2 or 1.4 and will most likely try one of those. Have you tired the 7 or TT Artisans? Thank you for another informative Sunday morning lecture.
I tried the Neewer 35mm but not 7 artisans; for vintage, the CZJ Flektogon 35 2.4 is very nice indeed, as is the slightly slower om zuiko 35 2.8.
@@zenography7923 Oh. Thanks! I’ll check those out.
Well compared to you we are all beginners :-) A lot of fine information.
You are too kind, thank you!
I notice you have a Lumix, are they good camaras for still pictures? Lest say S models or gh5? Thanks
I can only speak from experience with the GH2. I never found it a good stills camera - colours are poor, often with a greenish cast despite fiddling with white balance any way I could, images are noisy above iso 1000 or so, and they just don't have the depth that images from other cameras seem to have. It's not a bad camera as such, just its images aren't as polished as those from other cameras. As far as I'm aware, none of the GH series are particularly good at stills.
I have been using vintage lenses on my olympus om-d 10 mark III for a couple of years. There is no setting for shoot without a lens and it works fine. Perhaps the camera detects there is no lens and shoots anyway. With the om-d 10 mark III IBIS will work with vintage manual lenses but because there is no communication between camera and lens you have to set the focal length manually in the menu otherwise if you have the wrong focal length set in the menu and IBIS turned on the picture comes out jittery.
The OM-D cameras will make an appearance on this channel soon - stay tuned!
Old manual lenses people thought outdated when they went autofocus in the 1990s, are more prized than the AF lenses that replaced them. You can adapt autofocus lenses, but they lack the feel of a nice helicoid. I've put Nikon, Canon, Contax, M39 and other lenses on Panasonic (FF and m43), Fuji and Canon (FF and aps-c) digital cameras. Buying those favourite focal lengths for each system would have cost a fortune.
It's true, vintage glass is so much cheaper in most cases, and manual focus has a tactile quality that helps connect you with the camera. Having said that, I don't mind a bit of autofocus from time to time too...
@@zenography7923 I agree, AF can be handy for situations that need quick focus.
Another advantage of vintage lenses is they're much smaller than the modern equivalent. Full frame mirrorless bodies are shrinking, but lenses for them are huge. Compare a full frame Lumix S 50mm 1.4 to a Canon FD 50mm 1.4!
The Panasonic may be technically better, obviously.
Finding an adaptor is not a problem. What really is difficult is focusing, especially if your eyesight is, let's say, far from perfect. Event with focus peaking
I know what you mean, peaking isn't foolproof, but it works pretty well for me most of the time. Thanks for watching!
I find it helps if you set the camera to raw + black and white jpeg. The viewfinder will be in monochrome.
If you set the peaking to a bright colour it will really stand out.
I have a Topcor 20mm 1.4 lens, I am having trouble finding a adapter for it, can you tell me where to get one?
Get an Exacta adaptor - essentially the same mount.
A very good video. Crop factor was well explained for image size, but the comment about closest focusing distance being different when a vintage lens is used on a APS/C or M4/3 cameras is incorrect. The closest focus distance remains the same no matter what the size of sensor. It is not affected by the crop factor. In case I had got my physics wrong I tested with my EM5 (m4/3 body) and vintage OM Zuiko lenses of 135mm and 50 mm with adapter. The closest focus distance was exactly what it said on the lens, 1.4m and 0.4m respectively, not 0.7 and 0.2. To be completely certain I then checked using a CZJ 135mm M42 lens and closest focus was 1.5m as it said on the lens, not 0.75. Distances were measured with a tape measure. For good measure I then checked focus using an old Praktica MTL3 with the CZJ 135mm and the lens marking of 1.5m was closest distance the Praktica found. I no longer have my old OM2 so I could not double check the closest focus distance on the Zuiko lenses but I see no reason they should be marked incorrectly.
Glad you enjoyed the video. The closest focus distance of the lens does not change, as you say, but the effective closest focus distance does. Nothing about the lens changes as such, but smaller sensors look through a smaller portion of the lens, hence an effective magnification, hence an effectively smaller minimum focus distance - the key is to note the word 'effective'!
You don't seem to do any reviews about stand alone lens manufacturers such as Sigma, Sirius and Vivitar etc. There are some really good wide angle macro lenses available for £10-40. I tried to post a link earlier with some some sample shots but youtube doesn't seem to accept it.
Great video as always.. i will just add about crop factor.. You must add crop factor on aperture as well..
It seemed like there was quite a big color change in the images taken with the speed booster.
Did you notice that?
I didn't notice that myself...
I noticed that too...
funny thing. i used zorki 2 jupiter lenses on my xt5 fujifilm. i dont see diffrence in quality between this one, and modern lenses.
Thank you for such a detailed vid! It will greatly help my Canon M50 journey. You are wonderful!
JoseTheVegan on RUclips
I have an m50 and use a pixco focal reducer, it's brilliant once adjusted to get infinity, completely changed by photography experience for the better.
I have had some issues with adapters not allowing me to focus to infinity. Any advice on choosing adapters?
Well, I usually use the cheapest adaptors I can find - perhaps I've been lucky as I've never had any problems with them. They're often adjustable - if you look on the side you'll see small screwholes - loosen these and you can move the mount backward and forwards within the adaptor. Probably worth a try!
See my comment above. There’s a tiny screw on the back lens. You need to loosen it and turn the lens until you eventually get sharpness by trial and error.
File half a mm off the edge of the back side of the silver insert in the cheapest adapter.
If your lens is very off target invest in a few helicoids.
Hang on, have we got a Nikon DSLR user here.
Then ignore my chop a bit off advice.
I'm always broke and constantly surrounded by vintage lenses!
Please add links to the Pico M42 speedbooster, both how it performs and where to purchase.
Put the words you wrote into Google. Works like magic.
I got mine from here:
www.amazon.co.uk/Pixco-Booster-Reducer-Adapter-Fujifilm/dp/B0799FYC3R
I'm sure there are lots of other places you could find it too.
@@terryallen9546 Not really because the top links at least do not include Fuji x and also the explanation is missing.
Put these words into Google and build your own! 😀
"is this the way to boost your f stop adjust focal distance reduce crop factor cheap DIY"
Metabones has the only speedbooster that doesn't degrade at the edges. You definitely get what u pay for.
Of course, you can shoot a SLR lens on a rangefinder with the appropriate adapter.
Well technically anything's possible of course, and it wouldn't be too difficult to turn up an adaptor of the right dimensions on a lathe, but you'd then need to consider how to operate the rangefinder cam - which could be done, but would entail some rather more difficult precision engineering. So to all intents and purposes, it's not really possible.
@@zenography7923 I have an adapter to fit Nikon F mount lenses to a Leica M body. There’s no magic engineering behind the physical adaption. For focusing you either use the distance scale on the lens and guess or use live view with a M body that supports it.
Shooting an FF lens on APS-c body via speedbooster wide open is not necessary a bad thing, as long as you are shooting portraits. And if you do landscapes you'll stop the lens anyway. I'm talking from experience, course I'm having that cheap speedbooster too, for M42 to Fuji. That being said, I'm too on a lookout for one with much more IQ...
Agreed, not necessarily bad at all. And I think I'm going to look for a better speedbooster too - having tried one I like what they can do, but the sides and corners need to be sharper...
Stupid question I dont use M4/3 were they always designed from the outset to use any lens....eg vintage...?
I do watch most of your videos so am aware you mostly demonstrate vintage lenses on M4/3
Although I guess you use 35mm film from time to time Nigel...
Cheers for video.... better than good!!
Forgive me if I'm wrong but I believe crop factor doesn't affect minimum focus distance?
The smaller sensor (in film terms) is simply like cutting a few mm from the film edges.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I love your videos. You've inspired me to go mirror less with vintage lenses.
Hi there, glad you're enjoying the videos! You're right, the crop factor of the sensor doesn't change the minimum focus distance of the lens, and it is just like cutting a few mm from the film edge - but that's an effective magnification, hence a reduction in effective minimum focus distance. The key is to note the word 'effective'!
The minimum focus distance should be the same. Nothing has changed to the physical elements of the glass, nor the flange distance. It merely that the cone is larger than the sensor.
Exactly, nothing changes physically, but the lens behaves differently - different sized sensors have different fields of view for a given lens.
@@zenography7923 the field of view changes, but that's different than minimum focusing distance. The way a crop sensor works is exactly the same as taking an image from a full frame camera, cropping into the center, and then blowing it up back to full screen. The field of view changes, so you feel closer to the subject, but the distance you can physically focus the lens from the subject in the real world doesn't change. I love your channel and your content and everything else you said about crop sensor was correct but you've mentioned a minimum focus distance change a couple of times and it's wrong; but you have all the cameras and lenses to test it out if you don't believe me! Love youuuu
@@bassgojoe he didn't say the minimum focus distance changes. He said that it remains the same. It was a bit of a strange way to introduce crop factor though because I don't think many people think of minimum focus distance when they're introduced to it and it kind of confused the point. If it was discussed again, I think a different visual aid might help: a circle for the lens projection and different sized rectangles to show what the "sensor sees". The take away for anyone new to it is just that crop factor affects the part of the lens projection your sensor sees but doesn't change perspective, depth of field, exposure and it's important to know that for these vintage lenses because lots of people might want or not want them because of the character/flaws they have at the edges.
Your back walls need basic crack repairs... fairly simple fix..
and why couldn't this be done on a DSLR?
I take it that by "Mirror less" you mean DIGITAL IMAGE CAPTURE devices?
I HATE THEM !
I've seen grown men WEEPING, because everything on their memory card just up and suddenly VANISHED!
(Likely due to those uncontrollable Random Static Discharges!)
I've never, ever just lost a valuable ($$) image on film. Not in over half a century. 😉