1974 Norton Commando engine bottom end rebuild, Part: 3 Bottom end reassembly
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- Опубликовано: 13 окт 2024
- In this video part 3 of the Norton engine rebuild we move on to putting the bottom end back together. We remove the old races from the cases and install new main bearings. We reassemble the crank with rods and slide the case halves back together. We then reassemble the timing chest components, getting it ready to go back in the frame
Great video series. I wish I still had my Norton so I could take the engine apart.
Excellent, particularly the sharp, up-close filming.Thanks
@34 minute mark, regarding the torque specs for various bolts on the Norton, the Haynes & Workshop manuals usually list them at beginning of the chapters, not in the procedure texts. Also, the OldBritts website (closed down but an archive now found on AccessNorton forum) complied a summary of all torque settings of just about everything on the bike in one 4 or 5 page document.
EDIT: Just read on AccessNorton that this worm gear left handed nut should be 15 ft-lbs and experts advise using locktite. Also, the cam shaft gear nut can depend on what cam material is, as there are some which can be fragile. Best advise is 60-80 ft-lbs for stock steel and 15 ft-lbs for the PWC type cast iron cam with locktite for both types.
I enjoyed this video series - thank you. Interesting (1970's) combination of plain rod bearings and roller crank bearings on the Norton motor. That raises a question - how does oil get to the rod bearings? I saw the oil feed holes in the rod journals but how and where does the oil feed into the crank to lubricate the rod bearings?
So no checking the crank or cam endplay or rod journal clearance?
Andover sells a plate tool to hold the intermediate shaft solidly to prevent damage to the case hole it locates in while torquing the cam sprocket nut. It is also needed to properly set the chain tension as you cannot get the tension right if the shaft is able to slop back and forth in the hole under load.
How can we support your cause? Do you sell a DVD on the Norton commando engine rebuild? Thank you for what you've done
What a awesome comment, and its really appreciated, and has sparked an interesting idea, thank you and I am very grateful for you and all my viewers and subscribers really makes me want to keep going, I'm really glad everyone enjoys all this stuff
Hi Jesse. Great videos. Very helpful as I am about to rebuild my Mk3 engine. Out of interest what manuals did you use?
Thanks for the great comments, the manuals that we use are, #1 Chilton's Repair and tune-up guide Norton 750 & 850, #2 Clymer 750 & 850 all years service - repair - performance, #3 Haynes Norton Commando owners workshop manual all years, and #4 INOA Tech Digest
Available from the INOA (international norton owners association), their website shows it availible merchandise from them is sold from here:
bracebridge-street.com/tech.htm
@@jessesvintagegarage765 Thanks Jesse. Really appreciate the feedback. Cheers
8.21.22. At the risk of sounding presumptuous⚠️, have you ever give it any thought to have the cases of the engine vapor blasted? Along with the inner primary cover. I suppose you would have to tear down the transmission also too, in order to have that match up with the rest of the alloy parts.🇬🇧 The alloy parts look fabulous after they’ve been vapor blasted as compared to just bead blasted. ♠️ Great video series✊🏽
Vapor blasting is a great idea, I will have to look into that around here, a few years ago there was someone who did that, Thanks
@@jessesvintagegarage765 8.21.22. Just caught your reply, taking my 96-year-old neighbor lady to Mass this morning☝🏼 vapor blasting really sets a bikes look apart from others☕️
I'm not familiar with vapor blasting. Does it use an abrasive? If so, don't use it. Only crushed walnut shells or plastic media should be used on internal aluminum engine components. Aluminum is soft enough that sand, glass or other abrasives will embed themselves into the aluminum. When run, the engine heats up. This opens the pores of the aluminum. The abrasive then drops out of the aluminum and into the oil. VW learned this the hard way, back in the 1960s. They had a lot of failed engine overhauls due to this.
@@charleskuss8538 5.30.23. I agree with you Bead blasting dry will cause issues. Vapour blasting does not leave the pores of the aluminum open. They close them, so they cannot contain the abrasive.
@@stevensapyak7971 Exactly how can this process prevent the aluminum pores from opening when heated??? Is this some sort of miracle cure??? NOT! I don't see how using water under pressure would prevent the abrasive from embedding in the aluminum.
Question. At 49:45 you mention that you installed a seal saver on the camshaft. Do you have a part number and vendor for that seal saver?
06-1359
GUIDE TOOL - CAMSHAFT OIL SEAL, You can get this tool anywhere Andover Norton parts are sold
@Jesse's Vintage Garage okay. I guess I simply misunderstood what you were saying. I've owned that camshaft oil seal guide tool for 45 years. When someone mentions a shaft saver, I've always understood that to be a thin wall piece of stainless tubing that is press-fit over a damaged oil seal surface. The damage is generally caused by an oil seal that was rock hard and cut a Groove into the machined surface it rides on. I mistakenly thought that you had installed such a device over the machined surface of the camshaft where the oil seal rides.
What happened when you had the crankshaft crack tested, what did you find ?
The crankshaft ended up being great no cracks, in fact the rod journals were still in spec for standard size bearings so we just put a new set in and rebuilt the bottom end,
Did I miss it or why didn't you clean up the sludge trap?
It was actually done earlier when the motor was worked on with new rings and valves and guides before we started videoing and at that time it was recommended not to replace the main roller bearings but it always had strange engine knock sounds after it was up to engine running temperature so we decided to go back in and do that for piece of mind and then found the other problems?
@@jessesvintagegarage765 "...and then found the other problems" New opportunities to go and caress it from the inside 😉
I have a 70 commando S. The end play spec is .010/ .012. Some builder set it at .006 / .010 I do believe that .024 is way to large.
I know where I will set my lower end. (.008 / .010.
I do like the oil fed primary chain tensioner on the 75 models. I'm sure it can be fitted to a early model norton
You didn't lube the camshaft bushings or journals during assembly.
Well, I remember taking my oil bottle and lubing both cam bushings and also remember putting assembly lube on the crank journals and shell bearings before we put rods on must have some how missed showing it, it is very important that all that gets pre-lubed, thanks for you comments
@Jesse's Vintage Garage Actually, it didn't matter in the end. That's because you used your trick little tool and your oil bottle to verify that you had oil coming out the little piston lubricating holes in the connecting rods. Doing that also sent Boyle to the cam bushings
@@jessesvintagegarage765 I guess I wasn't clear. By journals, I was referring to the camshaft journals, not the crankshaft journals. The video definitely showed you lubing the rod journals of the crankshaft. As you said, perhaps lubing of the cam simply got edited out.
You should replace the con rod bolts….if they’ve been used once, they are stretched and should be replaced….just saying……
Correct and I should have mentioned that and Used is used also this engine before this rebuild had around 300 miles and didn't seem that much to me to worry about the connecting rod bolts but I guess we will see, thanks
It's not absolutely necessary to replace the bolts. When reusing the bolts, you should measure [with a micrometer] the overall length of the torqued bolt/rod/nut assembly. The bolts normally stretch a few thousandths of an inch, when torqued. Replace the nuts, as they are considered single use items. Once re torqued, re-measure the bolt/rod/nut assembly's length. If it's the same as before the rods were disassembled, you are good to go. If the length is longer, you will need to replace the rod bolts. FYI, OEM Norton rod bolts are forged and very strong. Be sure to use only OEM [Andover Norton brand] replacement bolts. Many of the "Made in England" aftermarket bolts are made from billet and are NOT forged. They are inferior.
your concept of inward is strange . To me inward is towards the inside of the motor, but you say inwards then put the bearing in the opposite of what you just said.
Yeah, that confused me at first, too. His "inward" meant toward the inside of the case hole in the direction of insertion.
Stop those rod bashing on the caseing guys!
CCO
Way too much sealer between case halves.
Well you might not be familiar with anaerobic sealer because it only hardens with absence of air so anything that squeezes out doesn't harden and just wipes clean anything inside is completely oil soluble and just washes away and is removed with the first break in oil change so we use loctite 510 or 518 for jobs like this and also in places with or without gaskets. 510 is good for higher temperature locations.