To be clear, Andrew is the only lighting RUclipsr I trust. But Aputure is obviously sending out lots of free units to RUclipsrs which makes me question how good the products really are for normal consumers. It’ll be hard for me to forgive Aputure for blowing me off when I wanted warranty service on one of their early panels. I haven’t purchased any of their products since.
Make sure you not only talk to the resellers. I experienced it first, but aputure had me covered and learned and built a fix so noone could get the same problem. So I have full belief in aputure. Not so much in the local support.
Meet the Gaffer (Luke Seerveld) is great, too. Between these guys, one gets a strong series of impressions, fixture by fixture, that hold up when they actually arrive in hand.
Andrew, I’m sorry to hear that. Fortunately, I and a lot of friends had unbelievably goofs support from Aputure and the company has a name in the community for being super careful when providing support. I’m sure that case was an unfortunate event, you should definitely check out them.
Thanks for a great review as usual Andrew! The hidden value of your reviews to some is the great tips and gotchas that you supply that only true gaffers have gained through years of experience. We broadcast camera operators here in Sweden have been forced through the years to take more and more responsibility for our own lighting for most jobs outside of bigger studios gigs. Gaffers are a dying breed unfortunately! Your info not only stops us ruining, breaking or misusing rental gear it also helps us solve the more complicated lighting problems that we encounter! Very much appreciated and a Happy and prosperous New Year to you and yours 🙏🏾. Ps This must be an Australian expression “ Greasing me with a lot of money”!😂😂😂
I am one who had my Yoke broke, got a new head back on warranty within 2 weeks. Picking up my 600x on Monday. Third 600 in my arsenal. Such a great light. Thanks Andrew.
Many thanks for that video and for all the video's and testing you've done throughout the year. Also your Gaffer tips and work arounds are priceless. I hope the work keeps on coming in for you Andrew 👍🏻👍🏻
This is the review we have all been waiting for! Covers everything I would ever need to know about this light. Thanks for squeezing it into your busy schedule. For me personally, I wouldn’t really have a use for this light. Mainly for the need to use gels to correct for the magenta cast and that it is not particularly bright with just the bare LED. The output is pretty great with the Fresnel. But then you lose the super crisp shadow that can substitute for real sunlight - as seen in your window/curtain test the fresnel softens things a bit more. It is also less versatile with the projector not working so great with gobos. I think I would go with the new P600C for filling large walls / shooting through diffusion. It is brighter when in its ‘bare’ configuration and you can fine tune the green / magenta easily to match daylight perfectly. When it comes to hard light with Fresnel the Fiilex lights you showed seem to be really hard to beat! That sort of beam control and shadow is pretty exciting to see from an RGBW source.. very curious about the new 900w Q10 version coming out.. Obviously cost is a big factor though! (I’m just kinda ignoring that part haha)
Thank you for the huge amount of quality advice on this channel. I'm currently considering the 600X/D to complement my two Rayzr7 300w Daylight - your videos couldn't arrive at a better time. Propably going for the 600D due to higher output and less fan noise, any thoughts on using CTO in case I need tungsten? Glad it's going well, stay healthy and don't overwork yourself! :)
For what it’s worth, there’s only been one time in the few months I’ve had the 600D that I’ve actually run it at full brightness, and that was shooting at an ultrabounce, then through a window, then through heavy diffusion. If you think you’ll actually be running in Tungsten with some frequency, I would say don’t be scared to go with the 600X just for the output.
@@andrewnibbi Thank you for the input :) Tungsten is actually pretty rare, since I'm mostly shooting corporate on site with daylight and cheap LED/fluorescent lights (which I turn off) and not a whole lot of time. Large offices, factory halls and the like - being able to bounce that amount of light of a 8m ceiling or through heavy diffusion for background luminance would help a lot. Depending on the release, I might even go for the 1200D.
Great video. I will say I disagree with you in the fadeups being good, though. They're just as clunky as the fadeout, just differently clunky. Like...the fadeups start fast, then get slow part of the way through.
Interesting! That would require some thought, the gear is very different to the dark ages when I started. What would I advise a younger me? Very interesting!
How do you store your F10 Barndoors to take with you to sets? Unlike the smaller Barndoors they don‘t fit inside the 300x case (of course with foam). I love your content and your professional approach.
I have the lights fully assembled with F10 and barn doors all the time. I have the lights stored in my van sitting flat supported by some padding. If I don't want the F10 I disconnect the light from it and leave the F10 in the van. But 9 times out of 10 I'm using these with the F10
Thank you for the wonderful and detailed video Andrew! I have one question. It seems the F10 fresnel is hard to find in stock in many places. Would it be possible to use the Nanlite Forza Fresnel on the 600D? I noticed the Aputure 2X was not recommended due to heat problems, but the Nanlite was designed for the Forza 500 as well so I was wondering if it might work. The diameter seems similar too. Thank you!!
Andrew, thank you so much for making this review and putting these details out there. I wanted to ask about the spotlight mount. I have the 600x and 36 degree spotlight coming in and from your tests I wanted to ask 1. if you got the same results at 3200k and 5600k or if the optical problems presented themselves in the middle kelvins and also 2. if you to shoot the spotlight directly at talent either as a backlight or to add a slash of light onto their clothing (with the blades) would you see the problems on their skin and clothes? Thank you
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge In all practicality how would this compare vs an HMI? Most of what I would like to use this for, is lighting a subject with window views in the background, up in a high rise building (40+ floors). I do want to be able to soften the shadows through a frame or dome Thanks again!
@Gaffer & Gear 10:25 Have you switched back to using the UPRtek spectrometer, or did you just use it here to test the flicker rate of the 600X? Thank you for the solid review!
Thanks again for the helpful review, Andrew. One question (for Aputure): Today I received my second 600D - but it still came with the same lame 3 meter head cable. Why didn't they change that, too? Instead I have to chase the extra 7.5 m cable now somewhere.
Amazing review Andrew! I have a really big question about the F10 Fresnel It would be work if you use HMI lenses (spot, wide, frost...) in any of the 600's lights??
That wouldn't quite work with the F10. It would be an interesting concept with a hyper reflector. If only I didn't sell off all my lenses it would have been an interesting test
If I'm filming an interview in someone's home during daylight hours... and there's perhaps light coming in through windows either to the side or worse yet, behind the subject... how bright a light (with a soft box) might I need to adequately light my interview subject?
@@WilfredFumbly lots of variables, my go-to answer is the biggest I can power and then dim it if it's to bright. But I have vans full of lights. I feel comfortable with something 1200 or larger, but bare in mind if you had a diffuser frame and the light using a reflector you would get more light level so a 600 may be fine
@@WilfredFumbly through a frame with the dish I would feel confident, through a dome directly, could be a touch and go depending if your background is in full sun. Another variable is the dynamic range in the camera.
@@gaffergear Camera-wise, I'd be using a Sony FX3 (good in low light). When you say 'through a frame', do you mean I should use some sort of diffusion cloth (scrim) instead of any kind of light dome?
Hello Andrew. I just recently added my 4th 600d to my rentals arsenal. In a different Aputure video you mentioned not having any issues with the yoke, well I had one of my units break at the yoke and will have to be serviced. With your statement in that particular video you mention a gaffers forum (with pictures of the issue), could you point me where that community may be found? I've searched with no results. Thank you for your time.
It's a closed group and they don't want to be mentioned on gaffer and gear because they will be over run with amateurs. Message me in Facebook and I'll give you the details. That's a real let down about the yoke. Aputure will sort it out. Essentialy on the broken units I have seen photos of the metal disc is missing and the screws go directly into plastic.
Can anyone recommend a low budget power solution to run the 600x at max brightness? I own six 14,8v V-Mount batteries. I only found a 48v converter that is about 1000€, which is to costly for me. Thanks! Great channel btw.
Comes down to what you want to do. I sold my 600x units because they were too heavy with the F10 Fresnel and barn doors. But the 720 just can't take the weight of a 5ft dome
I really wish aperture would stop shipping hyper reflectors and make a decent unit that tosses an even beam, its an option on the lower end lights. There looks be some 26V gold and V mounts that claim do 15A in the 250-300WH class. which means each battery can do 350-400W. I'd really only want to do that with sharfins which I don't see any that claim to work with 26V gear, and even then you'll get maybe 1.5 hours. still not practical
The problem is the voltage of the batteries when they are nearly flat, the voltage goes down so the amperage goes up. Find out the minimum voltage the batteries output, then divide that into the maximum wattage of the light to be safe. Otherwise you end up with melted plastic around the pins on the batteries (talking from experience)
@@gaffergear the cutoff voltage I keep seeing for 26V golds is 24V. Meaning 360W a battery. enough to run the light at 90% but I wouldn’t push it to full
Does the escalation of the kelvin shift in the cooler range not to do with the mired scale? Kelvin is not linear perceptively. It might be a consistent shift over the whole range. I am not an expert on this so please check out the science for yourself.
I use 310wh Dynacore for everything . Somewhere on aputures site they will have the minimum battery requirements listed, but a good ride if thumb is you want a battery that won't go flat in under an hour, as that will strain the cells overtime So at least a 150wh but I would push for bigger.
I sold my Orion 300. It just didn't do anything I needed it to do. If you need a tight beams of colour, say 30⁰ or under, then its great, but that isn't me on many jobs. The 600x with F10 gives me fire power, wider spreads, Lumen Radio, but is only Bi-colour. What I really want is the Fiilex Q10, but talk is $20000+ AUD for that, which I can't afford, so for me.... 600X it is.
@@gaffergear I had thought of that too. Orion will come out With a lens that should give it a wider beam spread. And in comparison when it is at full daylight it is using all of the emitters. So which so it should in essence be as bright as a 600 X in daylight mode because the 600 doesn't use all of the emitters.. also the collab with dedo should lead to some optimized accessories. But having to use a separate app isn't great.
Aputure hiring Andrew as a beta tester is seriously just making their products that much better. 👏👏
Not just me, they are getting lots of people from around the world.
@@gaffergear Incredible. It's seems like a MUCH better method than just sharing products for first impressions/reviews after it's done.
To be clear, Andrew is the only lighting RUclipsr I trust. But Aputure is obviously sending out lots of free units to RUclipsrs which makes me question how good the products really are for normal consumers.
It’ll be hard for me to forgive Aputure for blowing me off when I wanted warranty service on one of their early panels. I haven’t purchased any of their products since.
Make sure you not only talk to the resellers. I experienced it first, but aputure had me covered and learned and built a fix so noone could get the same problem. So I have full belief in aputure. Not so much in the local support.
Meet the Gaffer (Luke Seerveld) is great, too. Between these guys, one gets a strong series of impressions, fixture by fixture, that hold up when they actually arrive in hand.
@@leoquesto9183 I love Luke's Chanel
Gaffer & Gear Ditto. Pretty sure it was from you that I learned about it. Thanks again!
Andrew, I’m sorry to hear that. Fortunately, I and a lot of friends had unbelievably goofs support from Aputure and the company has a name in the community for being super careful when providing support. I’m sure that case was an unfortunate event, you should definitely check out them.
Thanks for a great review as usual Andrew! The hidden value of your reviews to some is the great tips and gotchas that you supply that only true gaffers have gained through years of experience. We broadcast camera operators here in Sweden have been forced through the years to take more and more responsibility for our own lighting for most jobs outside of bigger studios gigs. Gaffers are a dying breed unfortunately! Your info not only stops us ruining, breaking or misusing rental gear it also helps us solve the more complicated lighting problems that we encounter! Very much appreciated and a Happy and prosperous New Year to you and yours 🙏🏾. Ps This must be an Australian expression “ Greasing me with a lot of money”!😂😂😂
watching your videos makes me so much more confident on set. Thank you Andrew!
Can't wait for you to do the 1200d
I am one who had my Yoke broke, got a new head back on warranty within 2 weeks. Picking up my 600x on Monday. Third 600 in my arsenal. Such a great light. Thanks Andrew.
The 600D with F10s has totally changed my workflow. I can't imagine going back to small HMIs
Many thanks for that video and for all the video's and testing you've done throughout the year. Also your Gaffer tips and work arounds are priceless. I hope the work keeps on coming in for you Andrew 👍🏻👍🏻
I finally got a chance to watch this. What can I say, you nail it every time. Fantastic! Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Love a good professional testing + review! Thank you mate!
This is the review we have all been waiting for! Covers everything I would ever need to know about this light. Thanks for squeezing it into your busy schedule.
For me personally, I wouldn’t really have a use for this light. Mainly for the need to use gels to correct for the magenta cast and that it is not particularly bright with just the bare LED. The output is pretty great with the Fresnel. But then you lose the super crisp shadow that can substitute for real sunlight - as seen in your window/curtain test the fresnel softens things a bit more. It is also less versatile with the projector not working so great with gobos.
I think I would go with the new P600C for filling large walls / shooting through diffusion. It is brighter when in its ‘bare’ configuration and you can fine tune the green / magenta easily to match daylight perfectly.
When it comes to hard light with Fresnel the Fiilex lights you showed seem to be really hard to beat! That sort of beam control and shadow is pretty exciting to see from an RGBW source.. very curious about the new 900w Q10 version coming out..
Obviously cost is a big factor though! (I’m just kinda ignoring that part haha)
Q10 is going to be about $20,000 AUD
@@gaffergear holy crap! Well… that settles that one
You asked, they delivered. You literally said in the 600d video, hey my HMI has a 7.5m lead, this should too. And they were like, oh yeah?Sounds good.
This man is a professional. 🧠
Great review and happy holidays!
Both my 600Ds had the faulty yokes early this year - Aputure sorted me out quickly with the new design at least.
@Tim Tyler If you lock the head off and there is play between the body and the yoke then the screws have started to loosen.
Excellent as always.
I hope you were part of the beta testing team for the P600c and the upcoming 1200d.
Would you take the P600c over say 2x P300c?
I'm under a NDA so I can't tell you that the Nova P600C is awesome.
@@gaffergear hahahaaaaa
Do you know WHEN you can us know if it is or is not as awesome as it seems?
@@conrad2nr Not for some time. I didn't have to contribute much. Aputure are on the ball.
Thank you for the huge amount of quality advice on this channel. I'm currently considering the 600X/D to complement my two Rayzr7 300w Daylight - your videos couldn't arrive at a better time. Propably going for the 600D due to higher output and less fan noise, any thoughts on using CTO in case I need tungsten?
Glad it's going well, stay healthy and don't overwork yourself! :)
For what it’s worth, there’s only been one time in the few months I’ve had the 600D that I’ve actually run it at full brightness, and that was shooting at an ultrabounce, then through a window, then through heavy diffusion. If you think you’ll actually be running in Tungsten with some frequency, I would say don’t be scared to go with the 600X just for the output.
@@andrewnibbi Thank you for the input :) Tungsten is actually pretty rare, since I'm mostly shooting corporate on site with daylight and cheap LED/fluorescent lights (which I turn off) and not a whole lot of time. Large offices, factory halls and the like - being able to bounce that amount of light of a 8m ceiling or through heavy diffusion for background luminance would help a lot. Depending on the release, I might even go for the 1200D.
would love to see a 600d comparison test with it
Great work Andrew.
Your just the best man for this tests! But why don't you try genuine Bowens reflectors instead of that China material which comes with in the box
Great video. I will say I disagree with you in the fadeups being good, though. They're just as clunky as the fadeout, just differently clunky. Like...the fadeups start fast, then get slow part of the way through.
Would like to see you do a episode on what gear you would recommend for someone new wanting to get started in the lighting business.
Interesting! That would require some thought, the gear is very different to the dark ages when I started. What would I advise a younger me? Very interesting!
How do you store your F10 Barndoors to take with you to sets?
Unlike the smaller Barndoors they don‘t fit inside the 300x case (of course with foam).
I love your content and your professional approach.
I have the lights fully assembled with F10 and barn doors all the time.
I have the lights stored in my van sitting flat supported by some padding. If I don't want the F10 I disconnect the light from it and leave the F10 in the van.
But 9 times out of 10 I'm using these with the F10
Thank you for the wonderful and detailed video Andrew!
I have one question. It seems the F10 fresnel is hard to find in stock in many places. Would it be possible to use the Nanlite Forza Fresnel on the 600D? I noticed the Aputure 2X was not recommended due to heat problems, but the Nanlite was designed for the Forza 500 as well so I was wondering if it might work. The diameter seems similar too. Thank you!!
It doesn't fit the mount unfortunately
@@gaffergear ahh. I assume this is like a clearance issue? Thank you for your response. Saved me time on ordering and testing it myself!!
@@SlideWreckDan it was the 1st thing I tried when I got a 600D. Because the F10 didn't exist
Andrew, thank you so much for making this review and putting these details out there. I wanted to ask about the spotlight mount. I have the 600x and 36 degree spotlight coming in and from your tests I wanted to ask 1. if you got the same results at 3200k and 5600k or if the optical problems presented themselves in the middle kelvins and also 2. if you to shoot the spotlight directly at talent either as a backlight or to add a slash of light onto their clothing (with the blades) would you see the problems on their skin and clothes?
Thank you
The optics seem to be the same regardless of Kelvin. I haven't tried the 600 direct onto talent. I've only used it as a controlled bounce.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge
In all practicality how would this compare vs an HMI?
Most of what I would like to use this for, is lighting a subject with window views in the background, up in a high rise building (40+ floors).
I do want to be able to soften the shadows through a frame or dome
Thanks again!
@Gaffer & Gear 10:25 Have you switched back to using the UPRtek spectrometer, or did you just use it here to test the flicker rate of the 600X?
Thank you for the solid review!
I use UPR for frequency and lux, I use it for lux because it has a stand mount
Hi again Andrew. Thanks for testing it with the spotlight mount. How does the 600D compare with the spotlight?
I have used it a few times but I have not run a meter over it. It feels very underwhelming in terms of light output. And optically not great
Thanks again for the helpful review, Andrew. One question (for Aputure): Today I received my second 600D - but it still came with the same lame 3 meter head cable. Why didn't they change that, too? Instead I have to chase the extra 7.5 m cable now somewhere.
Good point
@@gaffergear On this point, would you happen to know if the longer cable can be purchased by itself somehow?
@@teacherofteachers1239 yes it’s available as a separate accessory you can buy now
@@teacherofteachers1239 Google 600D head lead, depending on you country search "25ft" or 7.5m.
Should come up
So good. How is the 600X holding up for you these days, Andrew? Thanks again.
They just keep on going, I actually find that I use these more than the 600D.
@@gaffergear Fantastic. I think these will be my most used fixture, and the weather proofing is such a major plus. Thanks.
Hi Andrew! How does the 600D compare to the 600X with brightness in the daylight range?
About 60 to 70%
@@gaffergear thank you! So that’s roughly 2/3 f-stop right?
@@D_L_J_83 about that
Amazing review Andrew!
I have a really big question about the F10 Fresnel
It would be work if you use HMI lenses (spot, wide, frost...) in any of the 600's lights??
That wouldn't quite work with the F10. It would be an interesting concept with a hyper reflector. If only I didn't sell off all my lenses it would have been an interesting test
@@gaffergear Could be a interesting test with the hyper reflectors of the 1200D!
Andrew, do you know if its in the world to update the 600D to 16bit Dmx? Is the limitation hardware or software based?
The 600D is only 8 bit
Kind of like if you were staring over with what you know what would you buy.
If I'm filming an interview in someone's home during daylight hours... and there's perhaps light coming in through windows either to the side or worse yet, behind the subject... how bright a light (with a soft box) might I need to adequately light my interview subject?
@@WilfredFumbly lots of variables, my go-to answer is the biggest I can power and then dim it if it's to bright. But I have vans full of lights.
I feel comfortable with something 1200 or larger, but bare in mind if you had a diffuser frame and the light using a reflector you would get more light level so a 600 may be fine
@@gaffergear I was hoping something like an Aputure 600d would be adequate.
@@WilfredFumbly through a frame with the dish I would feel confident, through a dome directly, could be a touch and go depending if your background is in full sun. Another variable is the dynamic range in the camera.
A 600D with F10 is a very powerful combination, I recon that's a safe bet
@@gaffergear Camera-wise, I'd be using a Sony FX3 (good in low light). When you say 'through a frame', do you mean I should use some sort of diffusion cloth (scrim) instead of any kind of light dome?
You say it's weather resistant, but does it have an IP rating?
It hasn't got an official IP rating. The head is designed to operate at +/-45 degrees and the ballast is designed to be upright (mounted to the stand)
Hello Andrew. I just recently added my 4th 600d to my rentals arsenal. In a different Aputure video you mentioned not having any issues with the yoke, well I had one of my units break at the yoke and will have to be serviced. With your statement in that particular video you mention a gaffers forum (with pictures of the issue), could you point me where that community may be found? I've searched with no results. Thank you for your time.
It's a closed group and they don't want to be mentioned on gaffer and gear because they will be over run with amateurs. Message me in Facebook and I'll give you the details.
That's a real let down about the yoke. Aputure will sort it out.
Essentialy on the broken units I have seen photos of the metal disc is missing and the screws go directly into plastic.
If you don't get anywhere let me know and I will see if U can use my contact
Can anyone recommend a low budget power solution to run the 600x at max brightness? I own six 14,8v V-Mount batteries. I only found a 48v converter that is about 1000€, which is to costly for me. Thanks!
Great channel btw.
My latest video may be of interest
@@gaffergear Just stumpled upon this a minute ago. Thanks again!
isn't there a way to calibrate the color temperature ?
Will you be doing a review on the Aputure amaran 60x? I have some questions I think your video would answer.
Aputure prefer I review the top end products.
@@gaffergear Ohh ok. No worries. Thanks for the response.
Which Stand do you recommend for the 600x?
Would you recommend the Aputure 600x or the Nanlite Forza 720B? Both of them costing the same
Comes down to what you want to do. I sold my 600x units because they were too heavy with the F10 Fresnel and barn doors. But the 720 just can't take the weight of a 5ft dome
@@gaffergear nice to know that! Thanks master!
can you make video about skypanel vs lightdom? can apature 600/300 can be soft as skypanel? and give good fire power compare to skypanel 360 / 60?
In the recent dome episode I do a comparison to the Skypanel S60. But good suggestion
I really wish aperture would stop shipping hyper reflectors and make a decent unit that tosses an even beam, its an option on the lower end lights.
There looks be some 26V gold and V mounts that claim do 15A in the 250-300WH class. which means each battery can do 350-400W.
I'd really only want to do that with sharfins which I don't see any that claim to work with 26V gear, and even then you'll get maybe 1.5 hours. still not practical
The problem is the voltage of the batteries when they are nearly flat, the voltage goes down so the amperage goes up. Find out the minimum voltage the batteries output, then divide that into the maximum wattage of the light to be safe. Otherwise you end up with melted plastic around the pins on the batteries (talking from experience)
@@gaffergear the cutoff voltage I keep seeing for 26V golds is 24V. Meaning 360W a battery. enough to run the light at 90% but I wouldn’t push it to full
Does the escalation of the kelvin shift in the cooler range not to do with the mired scale? Kelvin is not linear perceptively. It might be a consistent shift over the whole range. I am not an expert on this so please check out the science for yourself.
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mired
@@simonrabeder1599 thanks
As a reference, set to 6500 it's about 900k under target.
What v mounts do you recommend for this light?
I use 310wh Dynacore for everything .
Somewhere on aputures site they will have the minimum battery requirements listed, but a good ride if thumb is you want a battery that won't go flat in under an hour, as that will strain the cells overtime
So at least a 150wh but I would push for bigger.
what about the dmx control wirless?
At 18:01 all the DMX testing is wireless
Thoughts on the orion prolychyt vs 600x?
I sold my Orion 300. It just didn't do anything I needed it to do. If you need a tight beams of colour, say 30⁰ or under, then its great, but that isn't me on many jobs.
The 600x with F10 gives me fire power, wider spreads, Lumen Radio, but is only Bi-colour.
What I really want is the Fiilex Q10, but talk is $20000+ AUD for that, which I can't afford, so for me.... 600X it is.
@@gaffergear I had thought of that too. Orion will come out With a lens that should give it a wider beam spread. And in comparison when it is at full daylight it is using all of the emitters. So which so it should in essence be as bright as a 600 X in daylight mode because the 600 doesn't use all of the emitters.. also the collab with dedo should lead to some optimized accessories. But having to use a separate app isn't great.
Hello Man!
What about the fan noise?
This is too big.
If this gear become 20% small and light-weight, it will be great.