I had the piston skirt break off on my 4.0. Got some sealed power pistons, hastings rings, sealed power bearings and a melling oil pump. Rebuilt it in about 3 hours. One of the easiest engines that I have worked on.
@conqueeftador225 I'm looking into doing this in a week or two.. I had to buy back a jeep. I sold my wife's father because he couldn't drive anymore and he cold started it in front of me but held the pedal to the floor for 5~7 seconds, that broke a skirt or two. I would normally tear it down and send it to a machine shop, but it's got good oil pressure and runs perfect, plus all the machine shops in Connecticut closed up. So looks like I'm doing a piston slap with light honing...
The fact that the old skool hot rodder who has lived through the pinnacle of speed and design on American cars has now got hooked with the xj, my generations hand me down do any thing vehicle is some thing special to me. You rock Tony I believe your genuine
Love your videos and forensics style👍🏿. I bought my mother in law’s 01 GC , 4.0L with 49k, all of her orig miles.- I meticulously maintained it with oil changes every 3-4k. I enjoyed it as my daily, again meticulously maintained. At 158k suddenly developed a rap/slap toward the front block. I dropped the pan a found a silver mine- both #1 skirts sheared and shattered. Got a Jasper($3000) and my buddy’s garage installed it. Ran well for a while. Early ion got low oil pressure intermittent reading and then between 25-27k started to consume coolant with all the classic symptoms. 3yr/100k warranty. May 2024 another Jasper eng- with NOT a penny out my pocket. During the 27k miles- 9 full Syn oil changes- with Blackstone Lab analyses on all oil changes. Copper, lead etc levels increasing with each change and the last 3 analyses Phos/coolant contamination became obvious. The forensics: well of course cracked head and blocked oil return passages. All from the #1 engine reman Co. in the US- JASPER👎🏿👎🏿 Thank you, love your Channel
Great video! Not to sound rude, but try to remember those safety glasses. Really. I had glasses on and a welding shield when grinding. Got a piece of dust in my eye. Thought it was an eyelash or something. At midnight I was driving myself to ER cause I couldn’t take the pain anymore. I flushed the metal out but it rusted on my eye. It hurt, I assure you. Messed up my vision too after they grinded the rust off my eye.
It amazes and saddens me how people can abuse and neglect these beautiful 4.0 engines, when with routine maintenance you can get at least 200,000 dependable miles out of them.
With good maintenance, 200K is an easy mark - even with chronic piston slap. I would classify these engines as 300K'ers with no rebuild, just normal external parts replacement as needed. Move over Volvo. They are as good as the 300 Ford. Not as strong, but just as long-lived.
Love all your content I bought the red hat I had you sign before sending to me. I own 3 xjs and 1 2004 Wj 4.7 HO wandering what happened to the 4.7 ho motor content you were doing on the lifted wj. I enjoy learning what your know thanks for making RUclips videos
I am in framing my 4.0. But now I have to put in cam bearings do to lose front cam (like your last video I saw about a week ago). I was hoping you would show how to install the cam bearing as I have never put them in. HAVE A GREAT DAY!
Hey dex, I have had a wild hare for a while now, can't find anything if a jeep 4.0 can bolt up to a 1999 dodge dakota 5 speed transmission, I would very much appreciate it if you could do a video on it or something, cuz my 1999 dodge dakotas 318 has right at 200,000 miles on it and it's about shot and pure junk, but I think it would be very cool if I could fit one in and if there is a way I can keep a 4.0 fuel injected, I have already done measurements if the motor will fit. And it sure does, but pls if you can write back it would be awesome. Thanks.
I don't know but, those marks in the cylenders looks like that aera got hot, and they are close to the freeze plugs. Your probably finished with this motor, so it don't matter. Just a thought.
I’m loving the channel and the content man. Giving me some motivation to work on my j20 I’m ls swapping. I had a 96 zj in high school and all of my friends had or still have xjs over a decade afterwards. Wishing nothing but the best for you man.
I know you worry about how long your videos are but I swear it's funny: This video was almost an hour but seemed like only half that. I guess time flies when you're enjoying something.
Hey bro been watching your videos I need advice have a 99 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0 replaced water pump and radiator last year running with no thermostat and yesterday I found my transmission was full of water what should I do
i had text you about aluminum valve cover for a 1999 grand cherokee you said you had older one that would fit with the correct valve cover wish you would show what had to be changed to put the older valve cover on the newer jeep
Ngl im glad i found your channel i have a 99 cherokee and the old girl is starting to tick so looking into rebuilding it was gunna engine swap to a diesel but i do love my 4.0
Are TUPY WJ heads hard to get out there? I don't understand taking a risk on a POS 0331 head especially one that has already been repaired. Edit: And at the very least I would look in the oil cap after a good run cycle and see if its leaking at the repair. 0331 heads suck.
Probably not, definitely not on a manual, on a automatic you would have to move the trans back to get the flex plate and that other big plate between block and transmission, I think it could be done but would be way easier to just pull the motor out and do it on a stand.
@@pisstoffcat5136I was planning on pulling the engine, it's just that I don't want to pull one in the junkyard when I only need the bottom end. I'm already thinking I'll have to take the head off to get pistons out that I won't even use most likely
Any ideas? I'm supposed to pick up this "running" wj with 4.0. Owner says it fouls a spark plug on one cylinder every drive. Plug will make it 100 miles. Guys mechanic says it's got piston slap on that one cylinder.
I had a rear main seal leak I had to fix on my 01' XJ. Before that, my oil pressure just seemed kinda low at idle. Really bothered me. Fast forward, finished the main seal, laying under Jeep looking at stuff. This little voice in my head is telling me, "Pull the oil pump". I take the pump off, take the pump cover plate off, the two pump gears have little round dots on them. The idler gear does not have a visible dot and the cover plate is all scored up. I flip the gear over, there's the dot and the gear is all scored up. I stopped what I was doing and went to Advance Auto. Asked for a pump for a 4.0, they had two types, a Melling standard and a high volume high pressure. I hear the little voice in my head saying, "High V, High P!!!". I get it, put it in, had to smack the pick up tube up a tiny bit. Put everything back together, oil pressure goes to 60-70 psi. In the winter, it will go to 80 psi while accelerating. It runs between 55-60 psi all day long normal driving and at idle. Valve train quieted down quite a bit too. I'm glad I hear voices.
Could not afford a 3 dollar thermostat, apparently. Will new antifreeze with anti rust clean up the water jacket? It’s pretty roached. I am just curious about how well it works. Dex, was that your wife that popped in to ask if you gaged those new rings? Great build Dex and Justin!
Quick question for jeep bros. Sound like cam bearing failure? 00 4.0 cold start up and under light throttle theres a knock until its warmed up. Oil pressure sits at around 50 until warm drops to just above 20. 213k miles and no tick and knock is only audible in the cabin
20 psi hot at idle is pretty good for a 200,00 mile+ motor, your knock sound could be anything from an exhaust pipe banging against the frame or against the pipe hanger while driving, to a cracked. piston skirt. All new bearings and pistons and probably minimum overbore depending on how much distortion the cylinder walls have. Use a torque plate while boring if you want a 500,000 mile engine. I'm not a jeep 4.0 guru.
@@pisstoffcat5136 10psi for every 1,000 rpm is generally adequate, according to widespread rule of thumb (not 4.0 specific). My Buick for instance, idles at 10psi hot on a good day and drops as low as 5psi on the hottest of days, it's normal for this motor. If oil pressure jumps right back up with rpm, this is a good indicator that you want to see.
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 I had my jeep 4.0 before this one would sit at 15psi hot and one nite I heard a knock pulling off from a few stop 🛑 sign. Looked at the oil gauge was sitting at 12 psi and a slight knock , limped her home dropped the oil pan and the rod bearings were showing brass, I polished the crank thru some new bearings and a high volume oil pump , had 45 psi cold and 29 hot ,put 50k on it before I wrecked it
@@pisstoffcat5136 Gotcha. One question, was the oil pressure rock-steady, just low? I've noticed when a bearing spins the mechanical pressure gauge needle vibrates as the crank turns. This is because oiling leaks occur more in one crank position than another.
I was understanding that head bolt held their torque by stretching. Like a u-bolt. Is that incorrect. While selling parts in the class 8 truck industry a mechanic would never reuse a headbolt or a u-bolt
I bet those marks on the walls are from that block freezing some and the previous owner running it and it just making that's marks from having pressure on the cylinder walls
No dex. You dont get new studs every time you get new wheels. But everytime you rebuild an axle and get new wheel hubs what are you doing? Getting new wheel studs. Thats even less miles in between new studs than engine rebuilds. New heads bolts every time for me just cause they dont cost much. And then i have a whole stock of used ones incase they ever stop making parts.
Throw that p'of's in recycling bin and get the 91 though 95 Head these heads or thicker less cracking the 96 on are thinner and crack almost all the time.....
I would watch a 2 to 3 our complete tear down and rebuild video of the 40 Engine with all the little tips tricks quirks and Babababa in the video I would watch the entire video
I had the piston skirt break off on my 4.0. Got some sealed power pistons, hastings rings, sealed power bearings and a melling oil pump. Rebuilt it in about 3 hours. One of the easiest engines that I have worked on.
Im gonna start tomorrow. Did you do it in frame?
@rudigeyser3939 Yes, i did it in frame. The only thing i would have done differently was to remove the engine bay wiring harness completely
@@conqueeftador225nice and the wiring harness isn’t hard to remove either. I did it in under two hours without removing the dash.
@conqueeftador225 I'm looking into doing this in a week or two.. I had to buy back a jeep. I sold my wife's father because he couldn't drive anymore and he cold started it in front of me but held the pedal to the floor for 5~7 seconds, that broke a skirt or two. I would normally tear it down and send it to a machine shop, but it's got good oil pressure and runs perfect, plus all the machine shops in Connecticut closed up. So looks like I'm doing a piston slap with light honing...
The fact that the old skool hot rodder who has lived through the pinnacle of speed and design on American cars has now got hooked with the xj, my generations hand me down do any thing vehicle is some thing special to me. You rock Tony I believe your genuine
The stitch weld was very cool. Thanks for sharing
Love your videos and forensics style👍🏿. I bought my mother in law’s 01 GC , 4.0L with 49k, all of her orig miles.- I meticulously maintained it with oil changes every 3-4k. I enjoyed it as my daily, again meticulously maintained. At 158k suddenly developed a rap/slap toward the front block. I dropped the pan a found a silver mine- both #1 skirts sheared and shattered. Got a Jasper($3000) and my buddy’s garage installed it. Ran well for a while. Early ion got low oil pressure intermittent reading and then between 25-27k started to consume coolant with all the classic symptoms. 3yr/100k warranty. May 2024 another Jasper eng- with NOT a penny out my pocket. During the 27k miles- 9 full Syn oil changes- with Blackstone Lab analyses on all oil changes. Copper, lead etc levels increasing with each change and the last 3 analyses Phos/coolant contamination became obvious. The forensics: well of course cracked head and blocked oil return passages. All from the #1 engine reman Co. in the US- JASPER👎🏿👎🏿
Thank you, love your Channel
I wouldn't say Jasper's number one I've always heard nothing but bad
@@jasonmurdoch9936 Jasper is number 1, on a scale of 1-10.
Great video! Not to sound rude, but try to remember those safety glasses. Really. I had glasses on and a welding shield when grinding. Got a piece of dust in my eye. Thought it was an eyelash or something. At midnight I was driving myself to ER cause I couldn’t take the pain anymore. I flushed the metal out but it rusted on my eye. It hurt, I assure you. Messed up my vision too after they grinded the rust off my eye.
You forgot the most important safety precaution... the safety squint
About the same here.be careful
It amazes and saddens me how people can abuse and neglect these beautiful 4.0 engines, when with routine maintenance you can get at least 200,000 dependable miles out of them.
I have beat the absolute brakes off of mine consistently, done only oil changes and it’s got 270🤣
At least 200k? Lollll. Try triple that.granted i did rebuild with the heavy skirt pistons
They’re great. Honestly 200K miles is entry level for an XJ.
With good maintenance, 200K is an easy mark - even with chronic piston slap. I would classify these engines as 300K'ers with no rebuild, just normal external parts replacement as needed. Move over Volvo. They are as good as the 300 Ford. Not as strong, but just as long-lived.
The Ford 4.9 liter, 300 cubic inch 6 cylinder is the gold standard for durability, dependability. and longevity. The Jeep 4.0 is a close second.
Looked like the cylinder head was pinned. Had to have it done on a Chevy 250 because I could not find a non-cracked head anywhere local.
100% an uncut complete engine rebuild vid or vid series would be sweet!
That would take years!😂
@ worth it 😂 I’d watch it 😎❤️🤘🏼
Love all your content I bought the red hat I had you sign before sending to me. I own 3 xjs and 1 2004 Wj 4.7 HO wandering what happened to the 4.7 ho motor content you were doing on the lifted wj. I enjoy learning what your know thanks for making RUclips videos
Justin won’t let him play 4.7s they’re junk
Enjoy your show sir one of the best I've seen
The company Lock and Stitch makes something for fixing cast iron cracks maybe that's what you're seeing there on the head....check it out 👍👍
It does sort of look like that technique:
www.locknstitch.com/pdf/cruise_ship_repair_final_report_2011_new.pdf
I am in framing my 4.0. But now I have to put in cam bearings do to lose front cam (like your last video I saw about a week ago). I was hoping you would show how to install the cam bearing as I have never put them in. HAVE A GREAT DAY!
I love your videos Dex don't worry about the length of your videos you teach so much it's worth every minute
Awesome video man.
Evaporust thermocure is awesome for rusty coolant passages in a block. Just got done running it through mine and it's spotless.
Hey dex, I have had a wild hare for a while now, can't find anything if a jeep 4.0 can bolt up to a 1999 dodge dakota 5 speed transmission, I would very much appreciate it if you could do a video on it or something, cuz my 1999 dodge dakotas 318 has right at 200,000 miles on it and it's about shot and pure junk, but I think it would be very cool if I could fit one in and if there is a way I can keep a 4.0 fuel injected, I have already done measurements if the motor will fit. And it sure does, but pls if you can write back it would be awesome. Thanks.
I don't know but, those marks in the cylenders looks like that aera got hot, and they are close to the freeze plugs. Your probably finished with this motor, so it don't matter. Just a thought.
I’m loving the channel and the content man. Giving me some motivation to work on my j20 I’m ls swapping. I had a 96 zj in high school and all of my friends had or still have xjs over a decade afterwards. Wishing nothing but the best for you man.
Interesting box sitting under the stroker on the stand. 😎
Do you know what year pistons are more robust vs the type that come in the 99-04 wj engines?
I know you worry about how long your videos are but I swear it's funny: This video was almost an hour but seemed like only half that. I guess time flies when you're enjoying something.
Dex I can't get enough of the videos.
Hey bro been watching your videos I need advice have a 99 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0 replaced water pump and radiator last year running with no thermostat and yesterday I found my transmission was full of water what should I do
i had text you about aluminum valve cover for a 1999 grand cherokee you said you had older one that would fit with the correct valve cover wish you would show what had to be changed to put the older valve cover on the newer jeep
Is that the time when mecedes took over chysler and jeep? Because that would explain the wj piston issues..
Ngl im glad i found your channel i have a 99 cherokee and the old girl is starting to tick so looking into rebuilding it was gunna engine swap to a diesel but i do love my 4.0
What do you think about the head made by Edelbrock
No I don't replace wheel studs every time but I replace valve stems
TTY bolts should never be reused
That’s head looks pinned. I got one from AutoZone that was like that. I returned it and had mine rebuilt.
NOS cam and lifters are the only other choice 👍🏻🇦🇺.
Btw those coolant ports where clogged up good. Thats what that stop leak crap does for ya
That's my favorite color Cherokee. The maroon
Just curious, what's your thoughts on the 1993 motors, pros and cons vs the newer ,say 96 and up engines
Are TUPY WJ heads hard to get out there? I don't understand taking a risk on a POS 0331 head especially one that has already been repaired.
Edit: And at the very least I would look in the oil cap after a good run cycle and see if its leaking at the repair. 0331 heads suck.
Dex you are the man
Thanks for all the vudeos
Question, my head gasket failed between cylinders but never overheated! Does that cause the pistons to Crack like overheating?? Thanks in advance!
Question. can i drop the crank out of a 4.0 with the transmission still bolted up?
Probably not, definitely not on a manual, on a automatic you would have to move the trans back to get the flex plate and that other big plate between block and transmission, I think it could be done but would be way easier to just pull the motor out and do it on a stand.
@@pisstoffcat5136I was planning on pulling the engine, it's just that I don't want to pull one in the junkyard when I only need the bottom end. I'm already thinking I'll have to take the head off to get pistons out that I won't even use most likely
I don't see why not but why
@@jeremyhanna3852 exactly, 3 times the work.
@pisstoffcat5136 2 wks ago I went to pick a part for a starter came home with engine trans and tcase cause they ain't making oem parts anymore
Any ideas? I'm supposed to pick up this "running" wj with 4.0. Owner says it fouls a spark plug on one cylinder every drive. Plug will make it 100 miles. Guys mechanic says it's got piston slap on that one cylinder.
Find out if it’s fuel, oil, water. If you finds whats fouling it then you’ll know what’s needed to fix it
I had a rear main seal leak I had to fix on my 01' XJ. Before that, my oil pressure just seemed kinda low at idle. Really bothered me. Fast forward, finished the main seal, laying under Jeep looking at stuff. This little voice in my head is telling me, "Pull the oil pump". I take the pump off, take the pump cover plate off, the two pump gears have little round dots on them. The idler gear does not have a visible dot and the cover plate is all scored up. I flip the gear over, there's the dot and the gear is all scored up. I stopped what I was doing and went to Advance Auto. Asked for a pump for a 4.0, they had two types, a Melling standard and a high volume high pressure. I hear the little voice in my head saying, "High V, High P!!!". I get it, put it in, had to smack the pick up tube up a tiny bit. Put everything back together, oil pressure goes to 60-70 psi. In the winter, it will go to 80 psi while accelerating. It runs between 55-60 psi all day long normal driving and at idle. Valve train quieted down quite a bit too. I'm glad I hear voices.
Was it welded n sand back to spec?
That's funny that you showed putting pistons in twice.
Could not afford a 3 dollar thermostat, apparently.
Will new antifreeze with anti rust clean up the water jacket? It’s pretty roached. I am just curious about how well it works.
Dex, was that your wife that popped in to ask if you gaged those new rings?
Great build Dex and Justin!
Quick question for jeep bros. Sound like cam bearing failure? 00 4.0 cold start up and under light throttle theres a knock until its warmed up. Oil pressure sits at around 50 until warm drops to just above 20. 213k miles and no tick and knock is only audible in the cabin
20 psi hot at idle is pretty good for a 200,00 mile+ motor, your knock sound could be anything from an exhaust pipe banging against the frame or against the pipe hanger while driving, to a cracked. piston skirt. All new bearings and pistons and probably minimum overbore depending on how much distortion the cylinder walls have. Use a torque plate while boring if you want a 500,000 mile engine.
I'm not a jeep 4.0 guru.
Try Lucas oil stabilizer , mine was going to 18psi hot, started running Lucas and got 27-35psi hot ,
@@pisstoffcat5136 10psi for every 1,000 rpm is generally adequate, according to widespread rule of thumb (not 4.0 specific). My Buick for instance, idles at 10psi hot on a good day and drops as low as 5psi on the hottest of days, it's normal for this motor.
If oil pressure jumps right back up with rpm, this is a good indicator that you want to see.
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 I had my jeep 4.0 before this one would sit at 15psi hot and one nite I heard a knock pulling off from a few stop 🛑 sign. Looked at the oil gauge was sitting at 12 psi and a slight knock , limped her home dropped the oil pan and the rod bearings were showing brass, I polished the crank thru some new bearings and a high volume oil pump , had 45 psi cold and 29 hot ,put 50k on it before I wrecked it
@@pisstoffcat5136 Gotcha. One question, was the oil pressure rock-steady, just low? I've noticed when a bearing spins the mechanical pressure gauge needle vibrates as the crank turns. This is because oiling leaks occur more in one crank position than another.
Where you located at sir ? What you charge for a rebuilt
how many engine stands do you have???
Please do a RHD build !
Hey that head has been repaired with those taperd pins. Then they ground em flat.
Some parts of the country you don't need antifreeze so it had just water in it that would cause a lot of rust
I was understanding that head bolt held their torque by stretching. Like a u-bolt. Is that incorrect. While selling parts in the class 8 truck industry a mechanic would never reuse a headbolt or a u-bolt
Pretty sure my 01 didn't have any black on the pistons either. Gold all over, IIRC
I bet those marks on the walls are from that block freezing some and the previous owner running it and it just making that's marks from having pressure on the cylinder walls
how much would you sell a 4.0 jeep engine rebuild by you
Very interesting
What is your web site.for junk yard ? Looking for a 5.2 or 5.9 motor and transmission and transfer case from a jeep CHEROKEE
Come to Illinois and pick up. I'll give you either but not both. $1000.
5.9+46re or 5.2 44re. Both 1998.
Apparently your supposed to change the tty head bolts. But ive reused them lol
I’m suprized to hear y’all play jazz music but it cool
Is the missing Teflon the surprising secret?
Been seeing that since 1998, when Jeep started using short skirt pistons.
2001 is said intake cracks from thin metal.
SOME ENGINES HAVE STRETCH BOLTS THEY ARE JUNK SWAP THAT FOR STUDS ARP
Were they running E85 in it 😂😂 that’s strange
#ganggang
My 01 is that color
I think mine is piston smacking
No dex. You dont get new studs every time you get new wheels. But everytime you rebuild an axle and get new wheel hubs what are you doing? Getting new wheel studs. Thats even less miles in between new studs than engine rebuilds. New heads bolts every time for me just cause they dont cost much. And then i have a whole stock of used ones incase they ever stop making parts.
Throw that p'of's in recycling bin and get the 91 though 95
Head these heads or thicker less cracking the 96 on are thinner and crack almost all the time.....
49:55 I’m dead
no fords for sure, love that.
Jeez stop leak more like stop flow, that head's coolant jacket is totally clogged up I'd be super surprised if the head isn't warped.
Piston slap ? 0331 heads=trash
I should have added "without a rebuild".
$5G ?!?
I’m betting if anything is wrong it’s the #3
Spray that idler with some oil
$5K for that"rebuilt"engine???😂😂😂😂😂😂
Build it
They stretch I replace anything I over headed or I refreshed twice rule of thum for me anyway
Nothing "spicy" about Sealed Power
Im not a professional engine either. But i know when i see one.
Dexter’s laboratory
How to describe all is it's a Jeep thing.
Gold plateme
yur tyre is flat
There ain’t nothing wrong with the way you talk
I would watch a 2 to 3 our complete tear down and rebuild video of the 40 Engine with all the little tips tricks quirks and Babababa in the video I would watch the entire video