I mostly use 120 Portra 400 with flash photography... either on a Mamiya 7ii or Minolta Autocord with a Metz 45-CL flash unit, and I am absolutely floored how well they turn out. I just set the flash unit at 400ISO and f8 or f11, and the way we go. Just absolutely amazing photos. I don't have a lot of experience with the newer stock in 135mm, but boy, I do miss the old Portra 400VC! Especially for outdoor well-lit shots. Just amazing colors. However.... given the announced price increase starting tomorrow, your vid inspired me to get two more pro-packs in 135 today. Thanks!
I usually shoot ektar or gold for the price point but lemme tell ya, I finally bought some portra 400 and no it is NOT OVERRATED! Especially pushing it one stop! So many pastels!
I shoot primarely Portra 400 and scan with Noritsu. Idk about those tips with the biker shot. If i would meter at 200 for the black jacket, the highlights would be blown out to the outer space. This scene i would definitely be metering for the shaded pavement right beside him. You don't need all that information in the blacks by sacrificing the highlights. Meter for the middle gray in the shot (skin, grass, blue sky) and you will get the best results.
Whenever i edit the Portra 400 look in Lightroom, i get pretty decent and accurate results. Especially outdoor street photography and sometimes with portraits as well, depending on the light conditions. Still prefer to shoot real film but they're so damn expensive 😅
Right exposure, if you over expose your shadows in a HDR setting your highlights will likely be too bright. If your metering the scene "properly" there's no need to rate it at 200 unless you need to reduce aperture or shutter speed and develop it at 200.
i’ve got the kodak ultra f9 which is just a basic point and shoot 35mm did i make a mistake buying kodak portra 400 film :( i’ve seen results online and i’ve been obsessed so i had to get it but idk if ive made the right decision or not
Hey everyone! Im a little cofused, if you have Portra 400 and turn the speed to 200 thats over exposed by one stop. Are stops measured in 200 increments? Im a noob lol
30 rolls of Portra?! 😮 That's worth a fortune nowadays! I personally halted analog photography cause of the lack beautiful daylight and motivs during winter in Austria 🇦🇹.
@@Ithinkhighlyofmyself Fuji 200 (not fujicolor c200) is repackaged kodak gold 200. The old C200 used to have a much more distinct look that set it apart from anything kodak had.
Yea man, go find them at Walmart. Pretty affordable for a color film nowadays. Usually around 22$ for 3 pack of 36 exposures. It used to be 13 when I started but it’s still better than most. Fuji film is real good with greens, they really pop. Also don’t be afraid to mess around with black and white film. It’s fun and it is a little less expensive. Anyway good luck 👍
There is some dangerous half-knowledge in this video, making this end in tears for some who follow this down to a t without applying their brain. 1. Don't meter all films for the shadows. It's bad advice. "All films" includes slide film. Slide film will blow out highlights and mid-tones mercilessly when metering for the shadows. If you give generic advice, be specific about it. Like "meter C41 color films for the shadows". 2. "Meter for the shadows" - again, generic advice that is not specific enough. First of all, assuming spot metering, metering for the shadows will give you an exposure value that will result in your shadows being middle grey or 18% grey. That is what "metering for" means. If your shadows are black or close to black, ACTUALLY metering for ONLY that shadow area will turn them 18% grey. Then, "metering" is not specific enough advice. When metering with a camera, it REALLY depends on HOW the camera meters. Evaluative? Matrix? Center weighted? Spot? For spot, what angle?
@@Xisbrezatsgzormd thats the best advice, BW is good and cheap and plenty of them. Foma 100 4euro per roll, buy developer and develop yourself. Cheap too.
Film production got cut way down due to low demand, so film is in short supply. Short supply = higher prices. Demand is up, which means higher production = lower prices. Simple Econ 101. Don't ever expect pre-2000 prices again, though. More Econ 101.
@@Tenskwatawa4U but there is a huge demand all over the world and Fuji decided to close😲 Kodak just lazy to produce films and earn money because of “problems”, it’s fully artificial thing
If you go bankrupt, no one will care, but many thousands of photographers around the world value the quality of Kodak Portra. I use it in all formats: 35mm, medium-format, 4x5, and 5x7. 👌
Comment down below your portra 400 tips! ⚡️
Portra 160 and 400 are superb. I use both in all formats: 35mm , medium-format, 4x5 and 5x7. 👌
Thanks for this video. 🤝
I mostly use 120 Portra 400 with flash photography... either on a Mamiya 7ii or Minolta Autocord with a Metz 45-CL flash unit, and I am absolutely floored how well they turn out. I just set the flash unit at 400ISO and f8 or f11, and the way we go. Just absolutely amazing photos. I don't have a lot of experience with the newer stock in 135mm, but boy, I do miss the old Portra 400VC! Especially for outdoor well-lit shots. Just amazing colors. However.... given the announced price increase starting tomorrow, your vid inspired me to get two more pro-packs in 135 today. Thanks!
I usually shoot ektar or gold for the price point but lemme tell ya, I finally bought some portra 400 and no it is NOT OVERRATED! Especially pushing it one stop! So many pastels!
If you shoot portra in snow, overexpose at least 2 stops! Especially if you dont have any shadows in the picture, like on a bright day on a glacier.
The current portra 400 is nice but the VC version they no longer sell was the bomb . It was amazing in 8x10
One of faves! If I am not shooting black and white Ilford... Porta is what I have! Great for landscapes!
Can you do this over exposing trick (setting iso to 200 for portra 400) while shooting in aperture priority mode?
@KingJvpes my guy! would love to do photo walk and shoot with ya when im in your city end of March!
I shoot primarely Portra 400 and scan with Noritsu. Idk about those tips with the biker shot. If i would meter at 200 for the black jacket, the highlights would be blown out to the outer space. This scene i would definitely be metering for the shaded pavement right beside him. You don't need all that information in the blacks by sacrificing the highlights. Meter for the middle gray in the shot (skin, grass, blue sky) and you will get the best results.
THANK YOU, this sounds way more realistic
Another great video. You made me unafraid to shoot film.
If I pull to 200, will it decrease the shutter speed? I really don't want to lose the speed. Especially when exposing for the shadows.
Whenever i edit the Portra 400 look in Lightroom, i get pretty decent and accurate results. Especially outdoor street photography and sometimes with portraits as well, depending on the light conditions. Still prefer to shoot real film but they're so damn expensive 😅
OK, I am going to shoot my Portra 400 at 200 ISO. Should I tell my lab? Or because I will meter for 200, I'm good without saying anything?
How did you go with this? Did you like the results?
I generally aim at a bit low to meter my scene, basically to expose for the "shadows". Edit: Oh that's literally what you suggest at 3:23 lol
question about metering for your shadows...do you want to overexpose your shadows or get the right exposure for them?? thanks for the tips too
Right exposure, if you over expose your shadows in a HDR setting your highlights will likely be too bright. If your metering the scene "properly" there's no need to rate it at 200 unless you need to reduce aperture or shutter speed and develop it at 200.
@@mchubble2226 i appreciate u bro thank u for the tip!
Question: When pulling Portra 400 to EI 200, do you do (or have the lab do) anything special with development, or is it simply developed as EI 400?
@@jmo2321actually a true pull is to shoot it at 200 and then develop it at 200 also.
@@nickfanzo is that what he meant in the beginnint of the video though?
@@phiIIIII I don’t remember. This was a year ago, bro ski
Very informative. Thank you!
if we push one stop, do we need to adjust the light meter or just have it on auto is okay?
When applying sunny 16 to potra 400 shooting at ISO 200, should you set your shutter to 1/200 or 1/400?
I think 200 would make sense, since your camera thinks it's on iso 200, but I could be wrong tho
Awesome film but here in the UK it's £85.00 for a box of 5 colour negative . Crazy prices .
£82 on Analogue wonderland - not much of a saving, but it's a saving
Hi please let me know what equipment are you using to scan your Portra 400 film？
Great film stock. Pretty much the go to film for professional work. You have to try really hard to mess up with Portra 400.
Will the over-exposing to 200 ISO tip work with pns camera?
Hey doesn’t shooting over exposed wash out the colors and contrast tho? Why not meter whith a spot meter and use the zone system? @kingjvpes
How does overexposing affect portra when its pushed from 400-800? Thanks (I need to shoot between indoor and outdoor on the same roll)
i’ve got the kodak ultra f9 which is just a basic point and shoot 35mm did i make a mistake buying kodak portra 400 film :( i’ve seen results online and i’ve been obsessed so i had to get it but idk if ive made the right decision or not
No I think you should be alright. I just got a film camera and chose that!!
Hey everyone! Im a little cofused, if you have Portra 400 and turn the speed to 200 thats over exposed by one stop. Are stops measured in 200 increments? Im a noob lol
Never mind i Just watched your other video -- The EASIEST way to Push/Pull Film! -- lol helped alot
Cheers bro!
No, it's a geometrical progression, in this divisible or multipliable by a factor of 2. Or 1/2, as the case may be.
30 rolls of Portra?! 😮 That's worth a fortune nowadays! I personally halted analog photography cause of the lack beautiful daylight and motivs during winter in Austria 🇦🇹.
in winter i tend to use BW, my fav is Foma 100 or FP4, developing myself and printing myself too.
Yo I got the chance to shoot one roll of 400 portra that someone was selling on Amazon
I don't understand tip 1 and 3. Aren't they both the same thing?
Whig camera are you holding?
Lodi is that the result straight from your camera o may edit pa yan? Nice video lodi!
would fuji superia be a reasonable film to use to start shooting?
Yeah most definitely. Fuji 200 is great too or Kodak ultramax
@@daniellefernandes8423 I'm a big fan of Fuji 200. I feel like it's often overlooked, but it's my favorite low-cost negative film by far.
@@Ithinkhighlyofmyself I agree. I love that film. It produces great colors
@@Ithinkhighlyofmyself Fuji 200 (not fujicolor c200) is repackaged kodak gold 200. The old C200 used to have a much more distinct look that set it apart from anything kodak had.
Yea man, go find them at Walmart. Pretty affordable for a color film nowadays. Usually around 22$ for 3 pack of 36 exposures. It used to be 13 when I started but it’s still better than most. Fuji film is real good with greens, they really pop. Also don’t be afraid to mess around with black and white film. It’s fun and it is a little less expensive. Anyway good luck 👍
There is some dangerous half-knowledge in this video, making this end in tears for some who follow this down to a t without applying their brain.
1. Don't meter all films for the shadows. It's bad advice. "All films" includes slide film. Slide film will blow out highlights and mid-tones mercilessly when metering for the shadows. If you give generic advice, be specific about it. Like "meter C41 color films for the shadows".
2. "Meter for the shadows" - again, generic advice that is not specific enough. First of all, assuming spot metering, metering for the shadows will give you an exposure value that will result in your shadows being middle grey or 18% grey. That is what "metering for" means. If your shadows are black or close to black, ACTUALLY metering for ONLY that shadow area will turn them 18% grey. Then, "metering" is not specific enough advice. When metering with a camera, it REALLY depends on HOW the camera meters. Evaluative? Matrix? Center weighted? Spot? For spot, what angle?
Well said! Making blacks middle grey is totally wrong. Meter for the shadows but underexpose to get the correct tone!
The price of negative film is crazy. I shoot kodak motion film recently. lower price and same result
What is it? I’ve never heard about that film
Do you mean Super 8?
do we have to notice our lab when we go for process if we overexpose our film?
no
The guy speaks with a camera in his hand all the time
Which company do you use to pay for all your IG followers?
Yea fine, ok my tip is underexpose your portra. What else is new?
Get a 2nd job is probably the best tip.
Or to shoot on bw films
@@Xisbrezatsgzormd thats the best advice, BW is good and cheap and plenty of them. Foma 100 4euro per roll, buy developer and develop yourself. Cheap too.
Please raise your volume in future videos
Its overrated, I liked fuji more. I think we should not buy as much from kodak as they let us down with the price increase
But there is no Fujifilm anymore 😢
I don’t think we can be so hard on Kodak, the cost of silver is up 30% over 5 years alone.
At least Kodak still cares about film. Fuji is starting to phase it out.
The reason Kodak is increasing their prices is because Fuji is pulling out
Lol screw Kodak and their Portra 400 i hope they go bankrupt again with those prices.
Film production got cut way down due to low demand, so film is in short supply. Short supply = higher prices.
Demand is up, which means higher production = lower prices. Simple Econ 101. Don't ever expect pre-2000 prices again, though. More Econ 101.
@@Tenskwatawa4U but there is a huge demand all over the world and Fuji decided to close😲 Kodak just lazy to produce films and earn money because of “problems”, it’s fully artificial thing
If you go bankrupt, no one will care, but many thousands of photographers around the world value the quality of Kodak Portra.
I use it in all formats: 35mm, medium-format, 4x5, and 5x7. 👌