Finally a RUclipsr who uses the correct amount of bluing to check a fit. So many others use way to much bluing giving a false indication of fit. You are a true professional.
I remember my dad telling me (this would be 60yr ago), that apprentices under him would often intentionally apply a little too much blue, trying to cover up their poor workmanship, before he inspected their work. It made me conscious of only ever using the bare minimum of engineers blue. Steve, Perth, Western Australia.
When the video started I said to myself " I remember when Max had that taper attachment disassembled for inspection a few years ago ". And now it's up and running. Thanks Max for another enjoyable session. Cheers
I can’t say from experience, but I grew up in southern Arizona, and the skin cancer is prevalent there also. Spent a year and a half on a tuna boat on the equator, and you can really tell the difference! Great video Max😊.
I generally order any taper needed. Here, Max demonstrates the larger machine concepts and device to that precision. The larger thought required to grapple with fixture and the forces as shown to the tang (if present). My take away is where the importance to protect the tapers from dirt or chips and any impact to surface is a key to routine job use. I'm revisiting cardboard sleeves to protect my bench storage, you see. The lessons from such build are hard won and the bluing, measure to dimension very useful indeed to task. Thanks Max, for the well filmed post and the experienced comment. I find a constant to simplicity in fixture and attention to safety and rates of feed in your posts and learn a lot. And I am not forgetting the prize winning finished entry list. Simple and finish to high quality. A reminder of what to set about on my workbench. I really enjoy the recordings. You are a great journeyman teacher Max. From half a world away. *From Washington State, US. M.
Your video was perfect timing. Just bought a 1986 Harrison M250 with taper attachment. I’m struggling figuring out how it works so I’ve learned a lot here. Thank you.
Brilliant tutorial - thanks for this - really great how you highlight the different pitfalls to watch for. Best wishes and good luck to you. P.S. really like your no B.S. commentary on some of the topics that float around. Cheers and heal well.
Right there with you my man. Had several removed from the face & old noggin. One came back cancerous. Either 21 rounds of radiation, or surgery to remove about a 100 mm dia circle of my scalp, down to the skull. Hope yours is gone. I’ll recoup by watching your vids, here on the coast of North Carolina.
Wow , you have had a bad one . My last one was close to my eye , had to go to hospital for a specialist operation . The buggers took a small piece of skin from my ass & sewed it to my face ! All good now . Cheers 👍
Late the party today Max, g'day mate, hope the old big C doesn't bother you, I'm just back from my shop and ready to catch up on your latest video, thanks for sharing and best wishes 🎉
I have to make a taper attachment for my old Logan lathe. I have some tooling designs that require a MT2 on the end of an arbor. Your video gave me some ideas for a design. Thanks again for sharing.
Hi Max. I remember machining some Muff couplings many moons ago, pig of a job. They weighed about 25kg each and I was machining them on a Herbert 9C. The taper attachment hadn't been used in anyone's memory and was covered in shit. I cleaned it as best I could but the slop in it was a real pain, and as it was a production job ( and a screamer), I didn't have time to dick around trying to eliminate the wear. Like you show on here I had to stand off about 50mm to eliminate the backlash ( which seemed to vary on every part). We had no gauges and the shafts were about 5m long, so I had to carry each coupling up the shop to do a trial fit and they were double ended, man, I was like Hercules when I finished that job. Best wishes, Mal.
Great content and very educational. You are a very skilled tradesman. I’m just a hobbyist and have a lot to learn. Hope the procedure on your face heals well. Aaron from Canada
I bought the taper turning attachment when I bought my AL960B but have never used it or any other taper turning attachment either for that matter. I probably should extract my digit and give it a go.
Yeah. All my old machine books, going back to the late 1800s say that the tang is just to remove the taper. An old book by Morse says the same thing. But older tapers and tapers that aren’t perfectly cut, tend to slip and the tang does hold it from rotating. Usually, that’s fine. But if there’s a heavy load, the tang, which often isn’t hardened, can twist out of shape and sometimes, depending on the taper in the spindle, can’t be removed. I usually remove most of the tang for chucks on my lathe as there an automatic push on the taper from the tailstock screw. It just needs to be long enough for that and most tooling doesn’t even have a tang, but they’re long enough for that as well.
Hi Max, Stephen Morse will be turning over in his grave about the controversy of the tang on a Morse taper. I've seen many tangs torn off drills. In a perfect world where the male taper and female taper have perfect contact the tang would only be necessary for extraction. The biggest enemy is chips and dirt between the faces and poor fitting tapers. Never had a Jacob's taper come loose as it set and forget. We had a ten thousand horse power electric motor driving an axial blower and the driving force was none other through a taper coupling where the OD was hydraulicly expanded and slid home. My workmate found an easy way to remove a taper turning attachment on a Leblond Regal, snagged a chain by accident, the 20 ton gantry crane did the rest tearing it off.
Hi Max, the look on his face was priceless, looking down at the taper turning attachment laying on the floor. Excellent machinist caught out by a moment of inattention, been there, done that.
There is so much to like here Max. Starting back from the end is gold. Saving a screw up was worth the watch itself. The telescoping lead screw style taper attachments are the best. My one lathe that has a taper attachment does not have that feature and you have to remove the cross slide nut retaining screw. It's a pain in the ass to use. Fortunately taper turning here is a rare event so it is not so bad when you need to do it. "Don't ask me how I know that". Where have I heard that before?...Heh Heh! Cheers Mate
@@greglaroche1753 Once the nut is slotted, it’s possible to either squeeze it or spread it slightly (via an adjustment screw) to grab the leadscrew thread more tightly. In other words you can fine-tune the fit of the nut on a given screw. Naturally, as with gibs, the adjustment is likely to be needed in the center of travel where the wear is greatest. Toward the ends of travel the screw is likely to be hard to turn.
The nut has a wedge section cut out half way along it's length , then re fitted so when the wedge is pushed on by an adjuster screw it makes the nut longer to take up the wear . I had it in an early JFMT video , but not sure witch one . 👍
I had the same hassle when I had to enlarge the tapers on eight hubs for my surface grinder, all of which were a bit undersized. Actually, they were fine, American Standard 4:1 1” large end, but the taper in the grinder was a bit oversized. I didn’t want to disassemble the motor and arbor as it’s pretty high precision and taking that apart never seems to go well. I don’t know why it was a tad too big, but the manufacturer had their own hub on it. They’re short, so I cut the tapers with the compound. I had to oil the compound between each taper so I could move the handle without sticking. I envy people who have a lathe with a driven compound. I’ve been thinking of making a stepper motor attachment for it.
G’day Max, Well done. And I thought I knew something about taper turning.. I need to make some B&S #9 tapers in the future, thanks for the priceless bozo reducing tips 👍 I confess, I’ve spun my share of Morse taper non-tang drilling adapters. Cheers…..
That is a really nice taper attachment on that lathe. I was wondering if it would be beneficial to make a jig that locks in after you have it setup for the taper you want. You could easily make one for No. 3, No. 4, and No. 5 tapers. Then you could just loosen the taper attachment and drop on your selected No. Morse Taper lock and snug it up and go. Dicking with the fine adjustments is the most time consuming part for me. But then again I don’t have the fine adjustment control on my machine like you have there. That’s a great addition to a taper attachment. I was thinking about making something similar to add to my machine. The scale on mine is not very accurate, to the point I don’t even bother using it. Luckily I have a fairly long top slide so I can cut up to a Mores taper 5 without needing the taper attachment. But thanks for the lesson Max, I always enjoy your videos my friend. Good day from Indianapolis Indiana 👋
Max, you tapped the taper arrangement a few times until you’re spot on. Is it also possible to use a dial indicator to measure the diameter displacement on a known longitudal travel? That’s how would approach the puzzle if I owned a taper turning attachment… 🙈 Is this a valid way to go or is knocking and trying the best way to go. Thank you for your answer! Best, knock, knock, Job
Cheers for the info on the taper attachment. Neat to have You been in the game a while. Why does the finish have banding in it? I get it too and wonder why. Is it something to do with the feedscrew?
I think it is the saddle crabbing on the bed from the rack & pinion as there is wear on the inner way . Something i will be addressing early in the new year . Cheers 👍
Once advised a fellow not to add a taper turning attachment. But you have to be all in like MAX . On a large lathe the forces are taken up by size of the machine. Taper process explained in detail, the tradesman secrets are unveiled here. There are many processes that require reviewing near final demension.
I didn't' fully understand the need to scrap half the part. If you touch off, then back off the approx known amount of slack and backlash, and then run in from a good distance, won't you be in the ballpark?
My tailstock mt2 drill chuck spins in the tailstock because the part that tang fits into is broken. Just one more thing that needs fixing on my 90 yr old lathe.
If that's a British material( was that from the recuperator Max?) then if it's a 4140 equivalent it is probably EN19 ( I just looked up the equivalent for my own use yesterday lol)
If you want to pick up a taper you need to do it under power feed, start of with the tool clear, let the feed run and take up all the slack, run the tool in to touch off, record the dial setting.
That is what i did on the last roughing cut to the one that i had to fix . It is ok if you still have a fair bit to take off , but i still had to cut a fair bit from the end . 👍
Just watching you repeatedly check how matching that taper is makes me wonder how accurate the chinesium or even the rajesh and sons house of morse tapers and tasty goat vindaloos, actually are to the correct taper.
Maybe I have an overload of fecal material and maybe I might wear a belt and suspenders. I think that I'd add a tang just to assure that a sloppy setup will not destroy the tool, project, and general demeanor. Murphy exists.
These only ever go into a lathe tailstock with no twisting pressure . I have a tang on the MT3 one that i made , but only required for ejection as i use it in reducer sleeves . Cheers 👍
Finally a RUclipsr who uses the correct amount of bluing to check a fit. So many others use way to much bluing giving a false indication of fit. You are a true professional.
I remember my dad telling me (this would be 60yr ago), that apprentices under him would often intentionally apply a little too much blue, trying to cover up their poor workmanship, before he inspected their work. It made me conscious of only ever using the bare minimum of engineers blue. Steve, Perth, Western Australia.
You can be 3 degrees out & still get a perfect fit with blue on a YT video ! Cheers 👍
Clean the chips, that is an accident about to happen.
When the video started I said to myself " I remember when Max had that taper attachment disassembled for inspection a few years ago ". And now it's up and running. Thanks Max for another enjoyable session. Cheers
I was just watching some of the old videos when the lathe was being overhauled. It was a shock to all of a sudden see it in like new condition.
I still have a bit more to go on it , early next year it will be finished . Cheers 👍
Cheers 👍
Your observations about the slack take up are really insightful.
Cheers Rob . 👍
Great video and excellent explanation 👍 And most of all I wish you all the best and that you recover and heal up quickly from that! Cheers mate!
Thanks . All good . 👍
I can’t say from experience, but I grew up in southern Arizona, and the skin cancer is prevalent there also. Spent a year and a half on a tuna boat on the equator, and you can really tell the difference! Great video Max😊.
Cheers 👍
This video made me grateful that I own a Monarch Lathe! Monarch’s ball bearing taper attachments are the best I have ever used.
I would not say no to a Monarch ! Only ever seen one for sale in Australia , a 10EE .👍
I generally order any taper needed. Here, Max demonstrates the larger machine concepts and device to that precision. The larger thought required to grapple with fixture and the forces as shown to the tang (if present). My take away is where the importance to protect the tapers from dirt or chips and any impact to surface is a key to routine job use. I'm revisiting cardboard sleeves to protect my bench storage, you see.
The lessons from such build are hard won and the bluing, measure to dimension very useful indeed to task. Thanks Max, for the well filmed post and the experienced comment. I find a constant to simplicity in fixture and attention to safety and rates of feed in your posts and learn a lot. And I am not forgetting the prize winning
finished entry list. Simple and finish to high quality. A reminder of what to set about on my workbench. I really enjoy the recordings. You are a great journeyman teacher Max.
From half a world away.
*From Washington State, US. M.
Thanks 👍
Your video was perfect timing. Just bought a 1986 Harrison M250 with taper attachment. I’m struggling figuring out how it works so I’ve learned a lot here. Thank you.
No worries 👍
Thanks Max looking forward to part two !
Thanks 👍
Brilliant tutorial - thanks for this - really great how you highlight the different pitfalls to watch for. Best wishes and good luck to you. P.S. really like your no B.S. commentary on some of the topics that float around. Cheers and heal well.
Cheers 👍
Great tip on the air cut before the tool engages the part 🎉❤, awesome discussion regarding the tang !!!
Cheers Chuck . 👍
Right there with you my man. Had several removed from the face & old noggin. One came back cancerous. Either 21 rounds of radiation, or surgery to remove about a 100 mm dia circle of my scalp, down to the skull. Hope yours is gone. I’ll recoup by watching your vids, here on the coast of North Carolina.
Wow , you have had a bad one . My last one was close to my eye , had to go to hospital for a specialist operation . The buggers took a small piece of skin from my ass & sewed it to my face ! All good now . Cheers 👍
Mazak 860 in my home shop. Picked it up for a bargain at a bankruptcy sale many years ago. It's a beast for home use. Don't see many around.
They are a good machine . Cheers 👍
Loved the different turning close-ups. Surface finish was ace too.
Thanks . Camera mount still going great ! Cheers 👍
Late the party today Max, g'day mate, hope the old big C doesn't bother you, I'm just back from my shop and ready to catch up on your latest video, thanks for sharing and best wishes 🎉
Cheers Ralfy . All good now , stiches out today ! 👍
I have to make a taper attachment for my old Logan lathe. I have some tooling designs that require a MT2 on the end of an arbor. Your video gave me some ideas for a design. Thanks again for sharing.
Look up Chris . One Guy Metalworks , he made one for his Logan . I have earlier videos on my one when i cleaned it up . Cheers 👍
Hi Max. I remember machining some Muff couplings many moons ago, pig of a job. They weighed about 25kg each and I was machining them on a Herbert 9C. The taper attachment hadn't been used in anyone's memory and was covered in shit. I cleaned it as best I could but the slop in it was a real pain, and as it was a production job ( and a screamer), I didn't have time to dick around trying to eliminate the wear. Like you show on here I had to stand off about 50mm to eliminate the backlash ( which seemed to vary on every part). We had no gauges and the shafts were about 5m long, so I had to carry each coupling up the shop to do a trial fit and they were double ended, man, I was like Hercules when I finished that job. Best wishes, Mal.
Lol , the last time i used a taper attachment was in the late 1980's on a Ward 7C ! 👍
Thanks Max. As usual, so many practical tips from a very experienced machinist.
No worries 👍
Watched you from the start. Have learned so much from your videos. Helped my machining a lot. Thanks Max.
No worries . We all have a lot of different ways to get the same or similar result . 👍
Great content and very educational. You are a very skilled tradesman. I’m just a hobbyist and have a lot to learn. Hope the procedure on your face heals well. Aaron from Canada
Thanks . Stiches out & all good . Last time they stole a bit of skin from my ass for a graft ! 👍
I bought the taper turning attachment when I bought my AL960B but have never used it or any other taper turning attachment either for that matter. I probably should extract my digit and give it a go.
Yes , extract your digit ! Cheers Lance 👍
Sunday morning in class with Professor Max. Enjoyed the education, thanks!
Cheers . 👍
Nice. Some new tools in the making.
And there are indeed a lot of theories about morse taper tangs.
Yeah. All my old machine books, going back to the late 1800s say that the tang is just to remove the taper. An old book by Morse says the same thing. But older tapers and tapers that aren’t perfectly cut, tend to slip and the tang does hold it from rotating. Usually, that’s fine. But if there’s a heavy load, the tang, which often isn’t hardened, can twist out of shape and sometimes, depending on the taper in the spindle, can’t be removed. I usually remove most of the tang for chucks on my lathe as there an automatic push on the taper from the tailstock screw. It just needs to be long enough for that and most tooling doesn’t even have a tang, but they’re long enough for that as well.
I have a tank on my 3mt tailstock chuck , but that is only for removal as i use it with an adapter sleeve sometimes . 👍
There are , i go by 45 years of personal experience . Cheers Rusty 👍
Rapidly becoming one of my favorite channels! Thanks, Mr. Max!👍 cheers!
No worries 👍
Learned a ton on that one Max, thanks for passing it on! Some really great advice you've shared.
No worries 👍
Max, I enjoy the way you explain things Thanks
No worries 👍
Another good one Max keep them coming really enjoy your work
No worries 👍
Hi Max, Stephen Morse will be turning over in his grave about the controversy of the tang on a Morse taper.
I've seen many tangs torn off drills.
In a perfect world where the male taper and female taper have perfect contact the tang would only be necessary for extraction.
The biggest enemy is chips and dirt between the faces and poor fitting tapers.
Never had a Jacob's taper come loose as it set and forget.
We had a ten thousand horse power electric motor driving an axial blower and the driving force was none other through a taper coupling where the OD was hydraulicly expanded and slid home.
My workmate found an easy way to remove a taper turning attachment on a Leblond Regal, snagged a chain by accident, the 20 ton gantry crane did the rest tearing it off.
If only it was a perfect world ! I bet that cost your work mate a carton or two ! 👍
Hi Max, the look on his face was priceless, looking down at the taper turning attachment laying on the floor.
Excellent machinist caught out by a moment of inattention, been there, done that.
Well done Max. I have seen discussions on the need for a tang before. Cheers
Thanks Randy . 👍
There is so much to like here Max. Starting back from the end is gold. Saving a screw up was worth the watch itself. The telescoping lead screw style taper attachments are the best. My one lathe that has a taper attachment does not have that feature and you have to remove the cross slide nut retaining screw. It's a pain in the ass to use. Fortunately taper turning here is a rare event so it is not so bad when you need to do it. "Don't ask me how I know that". Where have I heard that before?...Heh Heh! Cheers Mate
Cheers Mate . 👍
Great work sir 😊❤
Cheers. 👍
Praying for you max God bless you and yours
Thanks 👍
Gday Max. The taper attachment jig works really well, & once setup, makes life a lot easier
Well done.
Cheers 👍
Great video. Thanks ! Can you explain briefly how cutting a slot in the lead screw helps with backlash ?
I should have said lead screw NUT. Sorry if I created confusion.
@@greglaroche1753 Once the nut is slotted, it’s possible to either squeeze it or spread it slightly (via an adjustment screw) to grab the leadscrew thread more tightly. In other words you can fine-tune the fit of the nut on a given screw. Naturally, as with gibs, the adjustment is likely to be needed in the center of travel where the wear is greatest. Toward the ends of travel the screw is likely to be hard to turn.
The nut has a wedge section cut out half way along it's length , then re fitted so when the wedge is pushed on by an adjuster screw it makes the nut longer to take up the wear . I had it in an early JFMT video , but not sure witch one . 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop
Thanks. I’ll have a look for that video.
Useful tool, certainly better, quicker and more accurate than using the compound, assuming manual operated 😮.
Nicely done Max.
Cheers 👍
Glad to hear it wasn't an irate neighbor! Glad you caught it...
Lol , Cheers 👍
I had the same hassle when I had to enlarge the tapers on eight hubs for my surface grinder, all of which were a bit undersized. Actually, they were fine, American Standard 4:1 1” large end, but the taper in the grinder was a bit oversized. I didn’t want to disassemble the motor and arbor as it’s pretty high precision and taking that apart never seems to go well. I don’t know why it was a tad too big, but the manufacturer had their own hub on it. They’re short, so I cut the tapers with the compound. I had to oil the compound between each taper so I could move the handle without sticking. I envy people who have a lathe with a driven compound. I’ve been thinking of making a stepper motor attachment for it.
Some people use a battery drill . Ryazan IM63 , a machine i would have in my shop in a heartbeat has an auto feed compound . 👍
Thank You so much Max, Paul in Florida…❤❤❤❤
Cheers 👍
G’day Max, Well done.
And I thought I knew something about taper turning..
I need to make some B&S #9 tapers in the future, thanks for the priceless bozo reducing tips 👍
I confess, I’ve spun my share of Morse taper non-tang drilling adapters.
Cheers…..
BS taper tooling would be getting pretty rare to find , even over your way i would imagine . Cheers Dean 👍
Interesting video, thanks for clearing up the morse taper/tang debate too!
No worries 👍
That is a really nice taper attachment on that lathe.
I was wondering if it would be beneficial to make a jig that locks in after you have it setup for the taper you want. You could easily make one for No. 3, No. 4, and No. 5 tapers.
Then you could just loosen the taper attachment and drop on your selected No. Morse Taper lock and snug it up and go.
Dicking with the fine adjustments is the most time consuming part for me. But then again I don’t have the fine adjustment control on my machine like you have there. That’s a great addition to a taper attachment.
I was thinking about making something similar to add to my machine. The scale on mine is not very accurate, to the point I don’t even bother using it. Luckily I have a fairly long top slide so I can cut up to a Mores taper 5 without needing the taper attachment.
But thanks for the lesson Max, I always enjoy your videos my friend.
Good day from Indianapolis Indiana 👋
Thanks . I need to remember to scribe a line on it for MT4 ! 👍
Thanks for sharing 👍
No worries 👍
Great video max, excellent information..thanks..
Lol , Ayr Cave Dean needs to make some as well !!! Cheers 👍
Max, you tapped the taper arrangement a few times until you’re spot on. Is it also possible to use a dial indicator to measure the diameter displacement on a known longitudal travel? That’s how would approach the puzzle if I owned a taper turning attachment… 🙈 Is this a valid way to go or is knocking and trying the best way to go. Thank you for your answer! Best, knock, knock, Job
Tapping it with an indicator on it to keep track of the movement is the easiest way to go . 👍
Thank you Max!
No worries 👍
I should have spent the extra $2k for a taper attachment when I bought my lathe. I have regretted that decision ever since.
They are a thing that hardly ever gets used . But when you need them , you need them ! Cheers Rob . 👍
Thanks Max 👍
Cheers 👍
Very interesting video. Thanks
No worries 👍
Cheers for the info on the taper attachment. Neat to have
You been in the game a while. Why does the finish have banding in it? I get it too and wonder why.
Is it something to do with the feedscrew?
I think it is the saddle crabbing on the bed from the rack & pinion as there is wear on the inner way . Something i will be addressing early in the new year . Cheers 👍
perfect explanation at the end max lol
Thanks 👍
Yes another max instalment, happy days.
No worries 👍
great video thanks for sharing
No worries 👍
Once advised a fellow not to add a taper turning attachment.
But you have to be all in like MAX . On a large lathe the forces are taken up by size of the machine.
Taper process explained in detail, the tradesman secrets are unveiled here. There are many processes that require reviewing near final demension.
There is a lot of weight to them . 👍
👍 I understand exactly what you said keep it up
Thanks 👍
Bee Ewe Tee Full & well worth the watch.
👍👍👍🇦🇺
Cheers 👍
May I ask why you're keeping your hand on the crank whil the carriage moves towards the work? To avoid backlash with the rack?
It is just a habit from an old lathe years ago , yes backlash . It is engrained in me now & can not stop doing it ! 👍
Ah, gotcha. Definitely worse habits to develop!
I didn't' fully understand the need to scrap half the part. If you touch off, then back off the approx known amount of slack and backlash, and then run in from a good distance, won't you be in the ballpark?
The part ends up way too long . The attachment has to be settled in over a couple of progressive cuts for an accurate size . 👍
Ian Moone's jarrah table top turned up in my feed yesterday how did that turn out when it was finished?
I still have to make a proper steel frame for it , but it is in use sitting on metal cabinets ! Cheers 👍
My tailstock mt2 drill chuck spins in the tailstock because the part that tang fits into is broken. Just one more thing that needs fixing on my 90 yr old lathe.
No worries . Weld up the tang & gently run a MT reamer down the quill ( By hand ) 👍
That JMT lathe has been a good pick up Max, yes repairs were needed but nothing beyond your skill set.
Should have it finished early in the new year hopefully . 👍
Could you not have the MT sleeve in the chuck and clock off it x 2 dead centres and clock it.
put the clock on the tool post and read the run out..?
Yes , but it takes too long and you will find it will probably need a small final adjustment . 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop I have done this and it put me very close quickly.
but deflection is a second thing
If that's a British material( was that from the recuperator Max?) then if it's a 4140 equivalent it is probably EN19 ( I just looked up the equivalent for my own use yesterday lol)
It is from a puller rod from a pre stressed concrete mould . Could be 4140 at worst case , maybe EN25 or 26 . I used to make puller rods from EN25 . 👍
If you want to pick up a taper you need to do it under power feed, start of with the tool clear, let the feed run and take up all the slack, run the tool in to touch off, record the dial setting.
That is what i did on the last roughing cut to the one that i had to fix . It is ok if you still have a fair bit to take off , but i still had to cut a fair bit from the end . 👍
@swanvalleymachineshop Yes nothing changes the fact that you can't take a very fine cut with carbide and end up with a good surface finish.
@@dutchgray86 👍👍👍
Good onya Max
Cheers 👍
Get presentation on how to use a taper attachment.
@@carlhitchon1009 Thanks 👍
Just watching you repeatedly check how matching that taper is makes me wonder how accurate the chinesium or even the rajesh and sons house of morse tapers and tasty goat vindaloos, actually are to the correct taper.
They would be made to some tolerance i hope ! I do not recall any problems with the cheap ones as that's all i mainly buy . 👍
Maybe I have an overload of fecal material and maybe I might wear a belt and suspenders. I think that I'd add a tang just to assure that a sloppy setup will not destroy the tool, project, and general demeanor. Murphy exists.
These only ever go into a lathe tailstock with no twisting pressure . I have a tang on the MT3 one that i made , but only required for ejection as i use it in reducer sleeves . Cheers 👍
👍👍😎👍👍
Cheers 👍👍👍
So other than a taper what ya making or is that secret squirrel business?
Lol no , all in the next video making another tailstock chuck ! 👍
Listen
Cheers 👍
Hi its Gary at Ron Macks can you give me a call
Done ! 👍