Is the 351c Engine in My 1970 Ford Torino a Lost Cause? Let's Investigate
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 8 окт 2024
- Thanks for watching please take a moment to like this video and comment below 👇 it helps these videos grow. and I appreciate it if you would subscribe it helps my channel to grow ✓
Visit www.steelcamel.com for great anti-corrosion and antiseize products
NOTE:
For companies looking to have a product tested or reviewed or to donate to a project please contact me at Hotrodguygarage@Gmail.com
Facebook -HotRodGuyGarage
Instagram -HotRodGuyGarage
Email me HotRodGuyGarage@gmail.com
Music by / @newguysguitar .
Go give him a like and subscribe 
Авто/Мото
![KSI - Thick Of It (feat. Trippie Redd) [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tXEPbotEjZE/mqdefault.jpg)
"if I don't fix it who's gonna?" 😂😂 truth...
Absolutely
This video gives a good view of engine removal and tear down. These steps are seldom shown on other channels.
Just so you know, I did my first engine rebuild EVER on my Geo Metro (at age 76). I rebuilt my own cylinder head. I would not have done it without your channel. It took me 7 months. I've gone through 2 rounds of break-in oil and am now on a regular lube schedule. My first tank gave me 41 MPG.
Went my whole life thinking I couldn't do something like this. Your channel gave me the info and encouragement. Thank you for all of your help!
Awesome, thank you for watching these videos
I’m impressed with people who can figure out Fords. You’ll get it.❤️
Just have to figure out the cause
At least Ford places the describer on the front of the engine
Hi Russ, great video on that engine tear down. It's great on how you explain every step on the tear down. Thank goodness that the block and crank are still in good shape. Thanks again on another great video. Rich
Thanks for the visit and yes luckily it's minor
Russ bottom tail housing bolt is usually open into case if not u can safely make it that way to drain 😊
These are the times that try men's souls. Might be time to start selling some HR Double G merch to help fund these projects.
I've been trying to get something up and going for months now and having no luck
If it were my choice I'd make that 351C right again. 4 bolt main block, standard bore, not torn up.... but I'm a 351C fan.
It's possible for sure
@@garysimonson9593 I know I would rebuilt i
I'm glade to see it wasn't destroyed . It will be interesting to see what you deiced to do
I vote for build that Cleveland and you'll then know what you have and I think that would give the car the highest value overall in case you decide to sell it down the road.
I'm sure you'll compare that distributor against a known OE part to see if that distributor gear is in the correct place.
I'm not worried about value this car is going with me I've got a lot to think about with it
. Cleveland build
Do what u gotta do refine the 6 cylinder is what i would do just saying cheers 🥂 daisy & Russ 😊😊
Hey Russ, I am not there and you have more experience than I will ever have but…. That bearing sliding around in the saddle puzzles the wee out of me. Have you measured the bearing related to the others? Not to be a goon but are they the same numbers on all mains? Sumting Wong. PLEASE keep us posted on what you find. I see the frustration in your face. Chin up when you have overcome this you will be soooo happy.
I'll dig a little deeper sooner the later back to the mustang till the weekend
Great show.
🔥😎
great video - thanks for sharing. I love Clevelands and Fords in general. that #2 main has no free span crush(the "snap" that fits it into the main bore). If you have a dial bore gauge torque down the caps and measure vertical on all 5 main bores, maybe it got hot in the past and that one moved around. also could be just that bearing shell delaminated/failed which is possible. do the numbers on the back of the bearing shells all match? I think there should be a batch number and manufacture date on the back. if it was lack of oiling you would probably see it on all of them and the rods or at least the one rod journal that that main feeds. if you don't have the measuring tools your shop can do it. maybe a line hone and cleaning and put it back together with new bearings? looking forward to seeing more! thanks,
Jeff
Definitely needs checked out thoroughly
I'm a complete moron. I thought it was a 429 Big Block...I'm going to the back of the class. The late Charlie Murphy had a word for me... HFR...😭👋
The 335 and 385 series bent Eights are close in appearance; especially if looking at them via a smartphone.
@@deanstevenson6527 in fairness it has one a few time
I say build the cleveland! Fix the issue with the heads install t Meyer cam bearings with their oiling mods. Definitely check the mains in the block and of course the crank. I personallywould take the time and do a little port work with the heads. I think the little cleveland could really be very strong.
I will check it out
@@j95svt I agree
Lucky it didn't spin. I think I'd measure the main bores with and without the bearings. May be a bearing crush issue that cause clearances to tighten up? Out of round? It doesn't look like an oiling problem to me.
That's the next step for sure. I've seen assembly lube eat bearings if it has sat forever like this one did but no signs on the others
@@HotRodGuyGarage Even if the assembly lube caused some corrosion, like you said, it would be in more places. I never used assembly lube, just oil. Back in the day (40+years ago), I used regular lithium grease on the cam lobes and lifter faces. Can't do that these days.
This seems most likely. There would have been damage on the rod bearings if there had been an oil supply issue. A couple different issues that would affect clearance on the mains would still ensure adequate oil to the rods. It's just a question of which one. Would *LOVE* a video where a machine shop goes over the measurements and there are some RUclips machine shops that might collaborate (and help promote the project...) - Jim's / JAMSI in Colorado, Dave's Engines in Utah, and Powell Machine in South Carolina - but that's just a thought. No idea what kind of deal you'd be able to make. Really interested to see what it was, though, because it looks like the issue was very, very subtle. And we usually don't get to see a failure in an early stage like this. Usually the bearing is melted, the journal is toast along with the nearby rods, and someone is damn lucky there isn't a hole in the block.
Another good video from you.
About the main bearing, could the centerline be slightly off for #2 bearing? Maybe the tolerance isn't just right for that slot. Is there a way for you to do a tolerance measurement?
I'm just guessing here as I've never broke down a engine as you do.
Definitely going to have to check out everything at this point
Putting in a stock 302 crossed my mind just seconds before you said it yourself.😊
As much as I love race car things I do like to actually drive my stuff 😉
351 w 😊
Dang, Russ. I’m sorry you are having to deal with crap like this. You are in like company my friend, I just had my Aeromotive fuel pump on my small block Chevy decide to go on vacation without me leaving my having to tow the car home. Good times….😢
This stuff happens but it's been a lot at once
I had a set of bearings that were marked wrong luckily I caught it
I had that happen with a set of king bearings in a 429
Nice job finding the problem. I hate when you tear is apart and don't see anything wrong.
Definitely could have been worse
Thanks Russ for another great video, well the tear down looks good the true test will be what the specs have to say looks can be deceiveing specs tell no lies, I for one am hoping for the best for you, l would love to see this car rip that engine in her
Definitely going to have to measure everything
Wow, I could never entertain the thought of putting water in an engine up here. Today I'm diagnosing a no check engine light/no fuel pump prime in Carl - IGN fuse is good
Check the grounds Paul
@@HotRodGuyGarage of course... there are three on the back of the intake, 7 on the fenders, and three on the dash kick panels, all were sanded to shiny brass and the threads chased, but yes I will check everything. I had to do some underdash acrobatics for the clutch switch, and It hurt just enough to make me give up for the day yesterday. We are having a run of stunning warm weather for October in Canada so I'm gettin 'er done!
I can’t believe you were able to pull that without removing the headers. When I swapped the 302 out of my 70 Torino for the 351 Cleveland, it seemed like I didn’t have that much room. I didn’t have the rare 351 you have. Mine was the less desirable with 2 bolt main with the 2 barrel heads.
I was surprised also
Lucky you caught it now before it really caused more damage. I've never seen a Clevo do that. Was the block line bored? Maybe for some reason #2 bearing is less clearance than the others. I assume the bearing is same size as the others?.
If my vote counts. I would like to see you fix the inline 6. That's one of the reasons I subed for " free " was the 6. Well it's up to you it's your money. V8's are nice even better with the right exhaust sound. A 6 is just different I've always had good luck with them and always wanted to build a bad one. I know it can be done but I never had the green to do it. Thanks Oh could it have been marked and packaged wrong ( the 1 bearing ).
I had planned on bringing the six back in the 66 mustang
Russ, must be some kind of starvation issue. Do like you said and send it for cleaning and any minor machining it needs. It's worth saving for what it needs now to get back on the road. In my opinion.
Just have to figure out the cause
never seen a bearing that loose in the block before.....i still would like to see the 300 turbo do its thing.
Me either, I was planning on bringing the 300 back later on in the 66 mustang
What about the 300 cu.in. 6cyl?
I've not got to bring it home yet to tear it down
Crazy was it defective or just starved?
That's the big question
Well Russ, you have been given a ton of suggestions thus far, but the one that makes me wince is the LS (me too) swap. If you decide to go another route other than the Cleveland, I'd understand. After all, it's your choice and your car. I'm partial to the Cleveland myself, and kinda in the same pickle; my 351 Cleveland 4V has been apart since around 1990, and the previous owner punched it out 60 over. I have a 1970 Mercury Cougar Eliminator. Unfortunately it's a rot box, and I enjoy restoring vehicles back to the way they came from the factory. Unfortunately, the Eliminator doesn't have any of it's original drivetrain; the 351C 4V is originally from a '70 Mach 1.
So I've been trying to find another 4 bolt 351 4V engine with the closed chamber heads, but when I do, it's very pricey. So I have been toying with the idea of a big block like a 429 or 460. Even a 428.
I'm looking forward to seeing what you decide, and if you do decide to drop in a 302 (especially because they're so darn reliable) , what would be the fate of the Cleveland? I definitely appreciate your videos, sorry I don't get the chance to comment each time, but the Mustang sure has transformed into a work of art! 😎🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲
Definitely have a lot of thinking to do regardless I'm going to fix the Cleveland
I would never trust it again without having it line bored. That being said, that's no big deal. Line bore, polish or cut the crank .010 under if it needs it, probably wouldnt hurt to knock new cam bearings in it with the metal being ran through it etc. I see no evidence of it needing the rods resized so would be cheap to fix it and put it back together. No reason not to. Bearings, rings, line bore, crank polish/cut, hone, hot tank and clean all the oil galleys in block and crank with pipe cleaners, gasket set and throw it back together. No need to make it a bigger project then it needs to be.
Absolutely
It looked like a 10 under bearing shell, is that the crank sizing? Maybe a 10 under got in a 20 under box?
It's .010 on the mains and .020 on the rods I'll check them out
Hello neighbor ❤
Hello 👋
Has your block flexed?Or a lemon bearing.Machine shop needs to check the alignment of the block
Gonna have to do some measuring
289 is a fine Lil engine lol.
Absolutely
It's true. Sometimes you just gotta rip the bandage off and get it over with, rather than wait and put it off forever.
True
You know even Steve morris has engine problems so hold your head up
Absolutely it happens
@@HotRodGuyGarage I believe from having it sit for so long a being Cleveland’s have an oil issue on number 2 an 7 I say it’s from sitting the bearing was dry then started from sitting
Is this Torino what they call the fastback and the green Torino a 2 door hardtop, sorry I'm British and not clued up on these things.
@@Jambo-u2k basically Ford used the terms sports roof for the fastback and formal roof for the hardtop coupe
@@HotRodGuyGarage So is the 1970 Torino a sports roof and the green one a formal roof? Are they both second generation Torino's?
@@Jambo-u2k absolutely correct
@@HotRodGuyGarage Thanks! I did look on Wikipedia before I asked but still wasn't sure. I think it was the vinyl roof that threw me off a bit
I'd suspect a wrong sized or defective bearing. It doesn't look like an oil problem, though I've heard of a fragment of silicone seal blocking an oilway. It seems unlikely here, though.
Could be going to have to do some measuring
Any one besides me wince when the core suport got thunked. I know i have done that more than a few times.
I wonder if the bearing had a issue out of the box.
Wouldn't be the first time it's got bumped
@HotRodGuyGarage the core suport in my ss has a dent in it from the t56 hitting it
Hell, go full sacrilege and drop in a LS3 and a built 4l80. I know, I know. But it would be fast and fun. and reliable. 🤣
True
Russ, I love ya, but how do you actually make money?
At this point I wonder that myself
I have the same engine and transmission in a 67 mustang.
Awesome
Russ, I think I would tear down the straight 6. Then decide
Absolutely
IMHO that failure was not caused by the valve train problems.What was the bearing clearances when that engine was redone?I don't think it was from lack of oil.
Definitely not from the valve train but the Cleveland isn't a priority main oiling engine and feeds the top end first. But I'm going to do some measuring around and see what I come up with
If you put an LS Chevy in it, it would haul ass and be reliable! LOL
No lol I'm a gm guy and that's just wrong . If he was to go 21 century engines i would say coyote but they are so ugly to look at in a clasic
Your not wrong
@freyja4954 maybe a 7.3L Godzilla? 400 hp at the wheels, stock, as well as the Ford 4.6L family use the same bellhousing bolt pattern.
Not to be rude. Don’t fret over that bearing. It was F’d a long time ago, looks like a manufactured or packaged problem from federal mogal. So what to do? Well, you saved the block and crank by being careful, send it to the machine shop have the line bore checked, have the crank checked. I never like seeing bearings rattle like that, they all should fit real snug. Probably will have to put in new cam bearings too. Then put it together and plastic gauge every bearing. Probly better have those valve springs checked too. If they still do such things still. Just my opinion that’s all.
Absolutely, either way it's going to get fixed if I put it back in or make sure it's right and send it down the road
Honestly, I did like the inline turbo six, It was just something different rather than the same V8 I always see.
@@DK-sw6xx I liked it alot it's just gonna take more money to make it bullet proof and get a clutch behind it that works
@@HotRodGuyGarage well good! And it sounds like you have a plan!
Go back too the 300.....?
Possible
Teach it a lesson and LS swap it.
It's crossed my mind at times, I've got a LT at the shop too
That’s sacrilege to even suggest putting anything GM in that beauty of a car.
Decisions Decisions
A ton
Hi Russ, great video on that engine tear down. It's great on how you explain every step on the tear down. Thank goodness that the block and crank are still in good shape. Thanks again on another great video. Rich