Anatoli Boukreev: The Life & Death of Mt. Everest's Guardian Angel
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Anatoli Boukreev was an elite mountaineer, most famous for his heroic rescue of three climbers during the 1996 Mt. Everest Disaster. This is the story of his prolific career, and his tragic passing.
Thank you all for watching, and I hope you enjoyed this video! If you did, please leave a like and a comment on it, and consider subscribing to the channel if you haven't already! I release new and interesting videos like this one regularly!
"Anatoly would like to stay on the mountain" is the best way to describe these climbers' dedication to their craft. RIP ❤
He wrote a book after 1996 to refute those who criticized him for his actions on that fateful climb. I had total respect for him and was so sorry he died a year later.
This is where the good of the internet has come into play.
For years people believed the lies of J.Krakow when it came to Anatoli. I’m glad to see more people covering the truth and clearing his name.
I love the title “angel of Everest” I hope it sticks
@@nunyanope4988 😀
@@nunyanope4988 Agreed. "The Climb" is the definitive account of what happened on that disasterous expedition. John Krakauer might have been a decent journalist, but he knew nothing about climbing compared to someone like Anatoli. How many lives did Krakauer save on the mountain that night? None but his own. He had no place criticizing someone who did far more than he'd ever be capable of. May Anatoli's spirit watch over the climbers of the Himalayas forever.
I glanced over at my bookshelf after reading this comment, saw "the climb", then smiled. He was an extraordinary man for sure, RIP
@@nunyanope4988 how did Jon lie? Anatoli climbed with no supplemental oxygen and had a job as a guide. He went straight up then back down. Yeah he saved lives but even Neil Biddleman says Anatoli didn't make the best decisions from the start and he knew better. Yeah he ultimately saved a few lives but how many were needlessly lost because they had one less guide with them?
Anatoli’s probably my all time favorite high altitude climber. His strength and stamina, specifically at altitude, often seemed superhuman, and when it came to life or death stuff, Toli always seemed to find another gear, so he could be part of, or if need be, even lead a rescue mission up into the Death Zone, doing so on more than one occasion - each time he saved lives.
When Scott Fisher paid Boukreev $25k to join Mountain Madness Everest ‘96, Scott knew exactly what he was getting, telling others Anatoli wasn’t a hand holder, instead, he would lead the team to the summit, then come down and put himself in position to “pull our butts off this mountain if things go south”. That’s well, exactly what happened. Apart from Fisher, who should’ve passed on topping out himself and gone down with his team after they all summited, not one client with Mountain Madness died, thanks to their Sherpa, Toli, and Neal.
If they had real radios, they might have had a better expedition.
I totally agree. RIP Toli ❤
And shame on attention hog John Krakauer
@@rickp3753 indubitably. MM’s barely functioning radios were already proving to be worse than useless, and that’s before they played a very significant role in the critical delay beneath an unroped Hilary Step.
@@rickp3753 If they had been real climbers (apart from the guides and Sherpas, of course!) they might have been a better expedition!
@@neuralmute Rob Hall, Fisher, and Harris were all guides. They all died. Most of the tourists lived.
Finally a video about this guy. One of the most talented Alpine climbers ever. He definitely pushed the limits. He loved climbing "Alpine Style" in the winter time. Because it was "harder than climbing during climbing season".
Guardian of Mount Everest is a pretty cool nickname.
“Mountains are cathedrals where he practiced his religion” his quote speaks it all. Incredible pure mountaineer who achieved beyond possible and saved many souls.
It is important to call out those who criticised him, those people stayed in their tents on that day in 1996 while he went out again and again. His critics should be ashamed and we know who they are.
I'm currently rereading the book Into Thin Air. The 1998 edition, at least, praised Boukreev on many occasions. I believe that Krakauer was probing the problem that a well paid guide, sans oxygen, was in charge of guiding mainly first time clients to the summit.
@@TGP109have read the book a number of times and have the same take on it as you. I'm not sure why people get so upset about it.
A lot of experienced people made mistakes on that day and those mistakes were compounded by the storm that came in.
I think it's right to reflect on the decisions made by team leaders and guides on the mountain that day so lessons can be learned.
As a consequence of what happened no guides are permitted to climb without supplemental oxygen, that seems perfectly reasonable to me.
@@stevet9938 Sherpas certainly climb without oxygen and they play a similarly essential role to guides. If you want to see what lessons are learned then 'Into Thin Air' isn't going to be all that helpful. 'The Climb' the book by Anatoli is far more meticulous and in particular the shift towards better communications and getting decision makers off the mountain were lessons learned by the industry that we can see broadly applied.
No we shouldn’t and don’t tell me I should be ashamed of myself because you don’t you know what you’re talking about. If you want to say things like that then back it with more than the testimony of guy who was accused of being a poor guide who was fortunate to have the chance to redeem himself which he did. Anatoli’s story was at best made up after the fact and not believable based on what he admits occurred. How anyone can compare Krakour who was a client on Rob Halls team to Anatoli who was paid to be a guide on Fischer’s team, is beyond my comprehension.
Thanks!! Not enough about this legend on RUclips.
Anatoli is the most impressive athlete of the many amazingly talented people that You've profiled. Thank You !:-)
Honestly this channel has really introduced me to mountaineering and what I know.
I know I definitely fall into the category of ???? People who can’t understand the dedication for this sport.
Thank you for your videos and channel; its really shown me dedication of people.
ETA- I may have looked into hiking to Everest Base camp as a direct result of your content
Get some experience before.. we don't want to see you featured in one of these videos 😮🥶😵
@@santiagocedillo5025 oh yes. This would be a special birthday trip goal
@@prettypuff1 that will be a nice birthday indeed, hope you get to do it one day 😊
I've also considered Everest Base. Like I'm terrified of heights, and I hate climbing so I know I'd never enjoying attempting Everest but itd be cool it just hangout at base camp for a season.
Done right, the hike to Everest Nepalese Basecamp can be absolutely magical and will become an unforgettable adventure. The trip to Tibetan (Chinese) basecamp is much rougher and a whole lot less enchanting.
The term Everest basecamp is misleading to complete novices, it is indeed the base of the mountain, but it’s actually located at an altitude of 5364 M or 17,598 Ft above sea level- that’s thousands of feet higher than any of the tallest peaks in the lower 48 US states or in all of Western Europe, and you will certainly feel it!
Though the pace of the hike is reasonable, even feeling slow at times, and the gain in altitude will be gradual, you will want to know in advance, how you will do the higher you go. Many people, even some who are very physically fit, just cannot handle being at altitude, so it’s a good thing to know in advance.
Brilliant, brilliant and brilliant.
RIP AB. Unforgettable.
As someone without the inclination or the balls to do any killer mountain, I love your vids!
Same!
yeahhh, I’m happy with a lil 3-5 mile hike and call it a day.
It always amazes that mountain climbers go back and forth between saying that "only true climbers climb without oxygen" to "anyone who climbs without oxygen isn't a true climber". He literally saved people's lives but others were pissed that he climbed faster than others. He could've easily just refused to help anyone and gone down the mountain. He grabbed oxygen bottles and went out in a devastating storm that killed some of the best climbers on the mountain. He tried to save others too but just didn't have the energy yet people are mad that he climbed ahead of clients but waited for them to reach the top. I just don't understand people. Seems they were looking for any excuse to dislike him.
I think you missed the detail bit. The rule mountain climbers all agree on is, guides should always be on oxygen. If you are guiding, you have a duty of cars to your clients. If you aren't guiding, you can do what you want. This was the rule before 1996 and it is definitely the rule after 1996.
@@JohnSmith-ux3tt , all Anatoli clients is alive. What you want more from him ?
@@nedialkosimonov3893 exactly
@@nedialkosimonov3893 What a dumb comment. He should have done his job from the start instead of waiting until his clients were stranded to do his job.
@@bluesteel8376second dumb comment
The most reliable mountaineer with inhuman strength, stamina and capabilities. Only avalanches are capable of taking on mountaineers with his caliber.
stamina was unbelievable
A true selfless beast!
Alas! Avalanches are only too frequent
The people who put their own lives at risk to save other people are true legends they never cease to amaze me.
I was just reading Ed Viesturs book on Annapurna yesterday and he mentioned Bukreev’s attempt on Annapurna then I found out that he had another book called above the clouds, apart from Everest, which was a collection of his diaries and other things he had written. Really wanna find a copy!
Did you try eBay? Barnes and Noble? Plain google?
Have you read "No Shortcuts to the Top"? I recommend it. Even when you get to the part with the chilling realization of what could have been.
For the algorithm 👊
Who is Al G. Rithm?
@@jaredmehrlich6683
The puppet master
Al Gore Rhythm
Praise be
@BC Bradley ha ha, nice one!
What a pleasant surprise! One of my favorite channels created a video on someone I've always admired. As expected, it was respectful and very well done. The life of a mountaineer is difficult for laypeople to understand. Thank you, Morbid.
keep up the great work morbid, your videos keep getting better
It’s the climbing down that gets you 🕊️
I couldn't even make it to the base camps of most of these mountains!
I think you could if it was your only option. You are far more capable than you give yourself credit for. That being said, you and I would just take a comically long time to get there😅
@@the_real_rascalA loooong time indeed xD
Boukreev's book "The Climb" is very good & provides a counterpoint to "Into Thin Air" (which for the record I loved - it was my first book about mountaineering & I am a big fan of Krakauer). Boukreev was a great climber & great human being in my opinion. Thank you for your excellent video in honor of him!
love ur videos, thanks for making my workday more entertaining!
Fuck work.
Thank you so much for making all of these fantastic videos!! I am on a binge this week, and they are all so well-researched and well- presented!! Anatoly had such an impressive list of climbing accomplishments, and without supplemental oxygen which is more difficult and dangerous from what I am gathering. Amazing guy-may he rest in peace🙏
10 frikkin' HOURS??? Whoa. That's not just another gear, that's an entirely different transmission!
Man after reading both books and hearing the stories of multiple people
Krakauer has and continues to do this amazing man dirty
Congrats on 50K! 🎉 Here’s to 100K by end of year
R.I.P. Anatoli ✨🩶✨☪️✝️✡️✨🩷✨
Thanks Mr Morbid for another awesome and informative narration. It's become a tourist trap these days but I would love to have the opportunity to go for Everest or K2. If something does go wrong 1 person can bring down 3. Keep up the Hardwork
Anatoli was a climbing beast! I just recently read his book and it’s sad that anyone criticized him that horrible day. He saved 3 lives and was a hero!
Anatoli was a man’s man for sure R.I.P. big man🙏🏻
respects to Anatoli, may he stay forever on the mountain he loved.
"Mountains are not stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion." Anatoli Boukreev
The mountain had to play dirty to get Anatoly
hahaha
Great video. Its amazing too how it recounts just how many of these tragedies that you have covered so far.
One thing that's mentioned by "into Thin Air" - which I highly recommend as the tale of the 1996 Everest disaster - is that not using supplemental oxygen can be a great asset to the right people. Oxygen is a massive weight, so if you can do without it, it makes climbing quicker and easier. That might make their climb safer since supplemental oxygen doesn't elimate the effects of being in the Death zone nor help with cold. It may well be that Boukreev had the energy to help his clients and so bravely save lives because he didn't use oxygen. So how anyone can criticise him for not using it is beyond me.
Oxygen does help with cold. It doesn't raise the ambient temperature, but you'll feel much colder without it.
good content as always homie, thanks for doing what you do!
I think not taking additional oxygen to the peaks was a strategy of his, which proved to be successful in achieving those records and fastest climb results.
Its like a real motivational factor he used: no extra oxygen means extra focus, not spending unnecessary time on dangerous slopes.
Rip hero.
Just to add a bit to the picture: he actually took o2, for the sake of clients, meaning he did actually carry the weight anyway. As far as o2 usage goes, he said it is more dangerous for him to use o2 because in case anything go sideways, problems would occur and would have to be handled while the bottle runs out. Adding an o2 rebound to the picture, it is seriously harder to do so, hence he considered o2 assisted climbing to be a safety hazard. This is why he actually refused using the bottles himself. Good point, I think.
@@nezeda.8753clearly he wasn't right about everything
God I LOVE LOVE ❤️ This channel heads and tails above everyone else ! 👑👑👑
He constantly looked for the death until he reached it
Great content ❤
I havent read any books but Ive seen every documentary and watch them too many times. Ive never heard the names of who Boukareev was responsible for and it makes sense he took those folks back to camp 4 first (not to mention they were able to walk). He is a good man in my book. RIP
I really love your voice and the background music. Always fantastic content and I’ve learned so much from your channel. Thanks!
Anatoly legend, best Russian.... selfless, strong, thoughtful.
You'd have to love him.💙💙💚💙💛🙈🙉🙊
Thanks for videos
Guys a legend in my book 📕
Anatoli didn't start working with Mountain Madness until 1995. He hadn't met Scott Fischer until 1994. Some of the information in the video is wrong.
There is an interesting book that contains Boukreev's writings. It was compiled by his girlfriend a few years after his death. It's called "Above the Clouds."
His book "The Climb" is a really good, factual account of what actually happened on that awful 1996 Everest expedition, too. John Krakauer did him dirty when he wrote "Into Thin Air". In "The Climb", Anatoli sets the record straight in his own words. I highly recommend it!
@@neuralmute krakauer is a garbage writer and climber. most of the stuff he wrote was wrong
@@neuralmutehow did Krakauer do him dirty ? He wrote that Anatoli climbed without the use of supplemental oxygen, which was true and against the wishes of his boss Scott Fischer.
Krakauer also wrote that Anatoli descended from the summit well ahead of the climbers he was meant to be guiding, which is also true.
Krakauer was also effusive in his praise of Anatoli's efforts to save 4 people in the middle of a raging storm.
Anatoli, in his role as a guide, should have been climbing with bottled oxygen, it's what he agreed to do when asked by Scott Fischer, see interviews with fellow guide that year Neal Biedelman, he confirms this and says that Anatoli should have climbed with oxygen and should have descended with their clients not ahead of them.
It's actually a rule now that all guides on Everest climb using supplemental oxygen.
@@stevet9938i dont think all his clients he saved cared much about whether he was on oxygen or not. Its generally accepted amongst the mountaineering community that into thin air has more then a few incorrections. But you gotta understand it was written by a journalist who went to everest to write a book. Ide take the word of the real mountaineer over anything he said. Of course he says correct things but thinking that book is 100% accurate is very foolish
@@stevet9938I would only counter-point your last paragraph.
Yes, it’s true that nowdays is rule for the guides to use supplemental oxygen.
But let’s be real… modern guides are not even a shadow of the ensemble that were: Bukhreev, Viesturs, D Breashears!
I’d rather trust my life in any of the above mentioned without oxygen, than the modern tik-tokers with a bottle on their backs 👊🏻
getting to the top is optional - getting down compulsory
Would love to see a video about Jerzy Kukuczka, he was as badass as Boukreev
I can’t stop watching your videos!!! 😅 you do a really nice job.
This is so informative! Great job, fantastic reporting!🌻🌼🐝 Keep it up 🙌
Wow this man is really strong. Ive first hear about him because of the 1996 mt. Everest incident. I was in awe of how he saved his clients that time. ❤
Whenever someone brings up people “leaving” fellow climbers on Everest to die, I always say, “You aren’t carrying anyone down to the next camp unless your ass is Anatoli Boukreev!”
or a sherpa, which you have forgotten to mention
Great story 💪
Love this channel
I find the lack of “no man left behind” ethics in climbing to be absolutely - despicable and dishonorable. You shouldn’t climb if you have doubts about your team. And if you don’t have doubts about the team taking you to the top… then you better be as committed to your team as your ascent/descent.
I DO like the music in your videos 💪
i put it on when i do my girl
Can you do a video about Wanda Rutkiewicz who dissapeared in 1992 climbing Kanchenjunga?
Thanks to my education from this channel, when you say, "new rOute" i understand all that is implied in regards to how impressive that is.
The guides are the real heroes for these rich kids seeking personal glory
Another amazing video!!
I totally understand someone not being able to stop and assist on an descent when the weather is poor or the rescuing person is also in poor condition, that’s entirely fair not to risk your own life for someone else who also knew the risks.
But for someone on an ascent who is in good physical condition and could possibly assist….for someone to walk on by just so they can stand on the peak, while someone else is dying…..there is no moral justification for that.
Absolute shame on anyone who has made this decision.
Edit - as an aside, I’m a sailor. At sea there is a clear obligation of care to provide assistance (where able). Disregarding this obligation is a criminal offence. It would be unthinkable to even consider not rendering assistance so a record could be broken. Again…. The thought of this makes me sick. Anyone who does this is a despicable person.
did u bother to watch this video?
@@jiogcyihsugyiocjfdoivhphvw6821 yes
Where possible to render assistance, you should. If not possible, then fair enough. Nothing in the video has convinced me against this.
This is the guide who purposefully did not take Oxygen on an Everest Summit. His intent was to race to the top, and then return to camp iv to gather Oxygen bottles, and then race back up the mountain to deliver the Oxygen bottles to those in need. Of course, if he had simply chosen to carry Oxygen bottles on his original ascent, he could have handed them off to other climbers on the way down. Apparently the finest Mountaineer ever, but planning to ascend Everest twice in one twelve hour period was not a prudent choice. However his stamina can not be questioned. If I remember correctly, he ascended Lhotse a few days after his Everest ascent.
You hone skills, and you home in on a goal or target.
Eh it’s a mute point anyways 😁
noone cares grammarnazi
@@Syclone0044 lmao you are nickpicking
Never will forgive Krakauer for his unfair treatment of Anatoli in his best selling book Into thin Air. RIP.
Agree ✨☀️👵🏽☝🏾
You may not like it but all John did was tell the truth about Anatoli's actions on that day.... which included high praise for going out into the storm on multiple occasions to save people.
Another Great video! 😁
Dude was superhuman. He summited Everest, climbed back down, and then somehow still had the strength to go out and save people when the storm hit...all without supplemental oxygen.
Some people will not like this, but his choice not to use oxygen on Everest in 1996 is deserving of scrutiny, as is Fischer's choice to allow him not to use it. He was acting in a commercial capacity with responsibility for other people. It wasn't just a personal mission. Going without oxygen places limits on the performance of even the best climbers. You're colder and likely need to descend quicker than might be ideal if other people need to be considered.
why is there once again no mention of one of the big heroes of the expedition, klev schoening?
Like Top Gear we do leave a man behind.
Sometimes it was just half a man.
Thank you!!
Every story ends the same way. Doesn’t matter how experienced any of the climbers are. Each time they climb, they gamble.
From avalanches, climbing injuries, low oxygen supply, or just the harsh freezing weather, the mountain is unrelenting.
Anatoli did not spend hours re-climbing the mountain to get to his clients, they were lost on the South Col only a few hundred metres from camp 4 where Anatoli was.
That said, it was still a superhuman effort from Anatoli to go out into a raging storm multiple times and save people.
He did spend hours climbing parts of the mountain.
Communication was one of the critical failures of 1996 ( far moreso then some other 'causes' ), he spent hours on the mountain trying to find out where the climbers were and only found them after one of the climbers from the bunch managed to make it back to camp, and even that only after 2 tries. In better visibility this may not have been nearly as challenging but obviously the storm wasn't giving them that option.
I do wish John Krackpot would shut his big cowardly mouth with his criticisms of Anatoli. As he himself stated: : I should never have gone to that mountain..." How correct he is.
i think u meant "krakhead"
Guides should climb with supplemental oxygen and stay with their clients, what is unreasonable about that ?
Also Krakauer said that Anatoli was a hero for going out into the storm numerous times to save people.
@@stevet9938 At the point where Anatoli descended ahead of the clients what could he forsee his clients needing more, his presence ( when they were already in the company of one other guide and presumably Scott when he caught up ) or Oxygen which had been clearly running out for some time due to the time of day and high usage by some of the climbers. Indeed Anatoli had already delivered oxygen to Neil when he handed off the bottle he carried that day just in case he'd overestimated his acclimatization.
At the very least Oxygen was needed as much as his presence and nobody else was going to deliver it, the visibility issues of the storm and the communication issues that had plagued the whole expedition foiled that plan.
Praise be al g rhythm
Another fine video Midnight.
RIP🙏❤️
Missed you
Not trying to be morbid(see what I did there?)but some people seem hell bent on tempting fate no matter how many warnings of potential doom they receive.
But, to each their own. We all have passions that we pursue. And there is some solace knowing a person died doing what they loved to do. However, personally I have passions myself, one of them is living.
Every man for himself is everytime every man for himself. I've had altitude sickness twice coughed up blood and been left for dead. People get pissed off Ur dying after they had to work 6 months at subway to save for the trip. So they ditch u
😂6 months, didnt know subway workers made 120k a year atleast😂😂
@junioradult6219 embezzling * if you die its free
I rode street motorcycles for 30+ years. I still don't understand mountain climbers, spelunkers, or cave divers.
Anatoli you f**king legend
I skydive and mountain bike - I do not mountain climb death mountains!!! But so many within my other sports that do. Something about people jumping out of planes also makes them want to summit death mountains. Never understood the connection other than adrenaline 🤷🏻♀️ I hate being cold so lol no desire for me to do anything in snow - hot air and sandy beaches with blue skies is my idea of perfect day
Where is the biopic movie?
Its not a big deal but Id like to point out that the word "Kazakh" usually refers to ethnic Kazakhs rather than residents and citizens of Kazakhstan who are more properly called "Kazakhstani". in russian, one of the two most spoken languages in Kazakhstan, this is reflected by the difference in adjectives "казахский" (relating to kazakhs as an ethnic group) "казахстанский" (relating to the state of Kazakhstan)
but who cares, nazi
A true hero.
For Anatoly...
☮️🍃
That looks like a Boston subway map in his background
I may be biased and have a soft spot for Soviets/Russians, but Boukreev is my favorite mountaineer to learn about.
Do you know where the shot at 4:14 is from? You’d mentioned Kazakhstan as the mountaineering capital of the USSR right before that so was curious to see if it was from there, thanks!
After i read " In thin air" of Krakauer and "Climbing" De Wolt and Boukreev i just realized what was happend on Everest 10th of May 1996
into thin air is trash.
also, bookreev's book is "the climb"
@@jiogcyihsugyiocjfdoivhphvw6821Into thin air is a great account of what happened on that fateful day.
Good video. I think Krakauer cast him a shittier light than was deserved in his book.
No, Krakauer didn't. He said Anatoli was a hero. He also said a guide should always use oxygen on a mountain as high as Everest. Everybody agreed with that before 1996. Everybody agreed with that after 1996.
@@JohnSmith-ux3tt , and all Anatoli clients is alive . Little point , but important 😉
krakauer is garbage
@@JohnSmith-ux3ttspot on.
@@JohnSmith-ux3tt No they don't? Sherpas climb without oxygen all the time and are expected to play similarly critical roles.
The change after 1996 was communication ( which was seriously flawed in 1996 ) and where your decision makers are, as obviously neither Scott nor Rob were in a condition to make decisions.
People don't realise that climbers bodies may be seriously suffering, so much so, that rescuing someone else is not possible.
Mount Zion Mahamid life really matter it's so incredibly helpful beautiful ways 😎💯❤️🌈
Good video
Could we please get a link to the Baintha Brakk Disasters?
Algorithm do ur thing ❤
You can only cheat death so many times before it finally catches up to you.
All while Jon krakauer slept fitfully in his warm tent. Then Profited with his crappy book written in blood.
E is for engagement, the reason I am commenting
Pittman didn't not belong on that mountain. She was only there because she could pay for it. She/her type is the problem with Everest then and now