Or you can steal the lock, get the pins out of it, then decode it, go online, order a key, then YOU have a key for where ever that you can use whenever. But yeah. You can buy your own cores, operating keys and control key haha
So one thing you can do is create a lock that instead of pins, has one unit thick wafers piled on top of each other. The result of this is that the lock will still "function", however will be unlockable with any key. Since most people don't try incorrect keys on their locks, this gives the owner the impression that the lock still functions correctly, yet gives the perpetrator the ability to come and go at will. That said, for a padlock, unless it's distinctive in some way, this would be easier implemented in the field by just replacing the whole padlock with your custom one, rather than just the core.
In theory, that's one of the things putting a hardened steel plate in front of the lock protects from... But in practice, I imagine the screw would, instead, completely mess up the softer brass internals of the cylinder.
adder2204 I’m guessing unless it has a self jamming or fusing mechanism which would render it permanently locked through the infliction of the damaged, then probably not. Years ago I was involved with building armoured cars; in them the strength of the protection comes down to as much the car as well as the driver, they provide escape time not full on defence or bunker protection, a good driver will get you out a bad one will get you killed. Perhaps much like it, a lock is a deterrent not an insurmountable barrier 🤷🏻♂️
From a material standpoint, if you were to use a hardened steel core, I guess it would be fairly difficult to insert the screw properly, and in that case pulling the core would then be kinda hard. As I'm kind of a noob when it comes to locks, I don't know wether hardened core exist. I bet they would be quite costly, and probably not worth the price increment with regard to a brass core with a good reinforced shielding.
Destroying or picking, I enjoy this channel both because it’s entertaining watching you speedily open them, and because I’m terrified when I reflect on the implications
@ Brian Ashton & Ben Snow ---> Post a RUclips video parody of that... titled as "Master Bang 2 Locks Open" with the hash tag #Brazzers... 2 Master Locks Banged Open Together... stand back & observe how many viral views it gets on RUclips.
This is me and today I was able to put all those videos of yours I watched to open a lock for a locker at work that someone lost the key to. Luckly it was a very bad lock and a raking attack was all I needed but I would had no idea what to do if it wasn't for this videos (Obviously I was authorized to open the locker but a intern lost the key and we would have to destroy something to get back in otherwise!)
man, seeing you holding onto the lock while driving that screw into it is pretty terrifying. I would imagine the chances of getting hurt are minimal, but i would imagine that any accident would likely be a pretty gnarly one.
All locks provide in security situations is provide 3 basic things; (1.) Adequate deterrence to physical attack, (2.) Buy time for detection in the event of a physical attack or other means of mechanical bypass or nondestructive manipulation. (3.) Require specialized tools/equipment & skillful strategic planning to affect a successful defeat via forced entry or nondestructive manipulation [such as picking/raking/bumping or decoding/impressioning of the locking mechanism itself.] Most locks with 3rd party ratings (UL-437 or ANSI/BHMA 156.30) for resistance to the above mentioned attacks have been tested mostly by using common, commercially obtained tools, such as drills, hanmers, cutters, and the like... not involving anything seemingly exotic as specialized tools such as this demonstrated lock core/cylinder puller. In fact, UL-437 specifically lists the qualifying tools used in its tests regarding the resistance of high security locking devices against physical, forced entry attack vectors. ANSI/BHMA 156.30 Has similar testing criterion to UL-437 with the addition of slightly longer resistance time when it comes to nondestructive manipulation, such as lock-picking in particular, in addition to effective patent-protected key-control technology to prevent unauthorized key duplication for high-security rated lock & key systems. However, a high security locking device is only as secure as whatever it is secured to; such as a door (as in the case of a padlock securing a door or a gate) or an immovable object (as in the case of a padlock/chain combination that is securing portable equipment against theft or unauthorized use.) Hasps mounted to wood doors using small, short wood screws could easily be pried or torn free from it's mountings regardless of whatever padlock is used with it... whereas the same hasp that is through-bolted to the door & frame would then offer a significant amount of resistance to prying and hammer blows... (once again, using commonly obtained hand-tools that could be acquired from the local retail hardware store.) I'm sure that once this particular form or method of physically attacking and defeating locks reaches mainstream attention (as such as what lock-bumping did nearly some 15 years ago), lock manufacturers will then respond with the typical reactive approach of engineering or designing their products to more adequately resist such physical attack methodology... In practice, physical security locks only provide one layer or aspect of security, as there are other security layers or aspects to be considered, in particular - what I call "passive observation or monitoring systems" of security alarms, surveillance cameras, trained guard/attack dog(s), roving security guards or sentries... as well as other more exotic technologies (such as infrared heat & motion sensing triggers that are designed to work integrated into an alarm system with other sensing technologies... Multiple security layers or different sets of locked barriers such as doors or gates would definitely act as a viable deterrent to the casual thief or prowler...
Time and noise seem to by the issues involved with unauthorized access. The more time it takes and/or the noisier the attack is the more likely you are to be caught. So you choose your defense along these lines. I would expect multiple defense lines when securing high value items.
You just had 1 million subscribers, you are already at 1.2 million...... another 200,000 subscribers already? This is awesome seeing him go from starting out to being the most subscribed youtube lock picker.
Have a problem in San Francisco with people using lockpick guns to get into and steal tools from weather guard toolboxes (truck bed toolboxes). Could you do an episode on making these locks resistant to that type of attack?
@Ian Duke Do you know of a lock that can replace the weatherguard lock? It doesn't rotate, it moves axially (ionno if I spelled that right) if I could just replace the core, I would.
"Okey so today we have this Masterlock next gen padlock. Firstly I am just going to drill this screw into the key-way." *click nose as padlock opens* "okey, well that's all I have time for today."
Haha, we learned during german police training that the tool "Zieh-Fix" is a tool often used for burglaries. Obviously a very effective tool to get in somewhere rather quickly and effectively. So if i ever find one of these on a suspect, it's a jackpot.
Here is some Background about the Zieh-Fix Glocke (Core remover) Its a device commonly used by Firefighters in Germany (and probabaly by many others) to open doors of people in need of help. Thats because its pretty fast, reliable and easy to use. Most importantly it only destroys the Lock and Not the whole door. Just so you know that this isnt its intended use, but still pretty intresting to See how ist handles such locks
I've seen you do some product reviews in the past, but I'd really be interested in seeing you break down your personal tool collection and your rationale for why you have it in the kit vs other alternatives.
I always knew the retaining cam was the weak link of the BEST system. Frank Best probably knew this as well. They were always impossible for me to pick however.
It's still much, much better than the spring loaded pin that Schlage ICs use. Just drill a hole, push pin, remove core. Only need to go through about 1/8" of material for a common padlock size. Found that out when I assembled a SFIC lock with the over-rotation disk in backwards. Couldn't turn the core to open the lock or remove the core to fix my mistake.
I would suggest using a knipex 8603250 smooth jaw pliers to hold the outside of the puller. It'll give you the extra leverage you need and won't damage the face of the puller.
After you finish with the core puller you should hit it with the ramset, and then leave it where your other locks can see. That way they know what happens to locks that disappoint you.
the main defense against a core puller is using hard but not brittle metals like spring steel however the cost is 2-3x brass which is why its not commonly used. Brass is cheep and easy to machine because its a soft metal
LPL, can you do a longer form video, where you go through your process of figuring out what to do with a new lock? most of the time you pick something, you've probably already ruled out a bunch of things first. I'd love to see your process.
High tension work with bare hands right next to the tension point always makes me so anxious. Just thinking "I sure hope that screw doesn't break." But LPL is certainly much smarter in this stuff than I am. I can't imagine he'd put himself in danger.
I wonder, would one of those portable electric crimping tools (pex pipe, ferrules for electrical work) or a tool for creating punchouts in electrical boxes would have enough power to pull a core?
I would like to see it used on a Kwikset Smart Lock, newest generation. To see if a new core can be put back in the lock and everything works as before, without the tool doing any damage to the housing.
Would drill resistant pins provide any protection defeating the self tapping screw used for this core puller? Seems like if you could prevent that screw from taking purchase inside the core you could defeat this tool.
It's all well and fine using decent locks but what heppens if you ise the core puller on something horrible such as a TriCircle padlock Which will fail first the core or the body?
Is there any way to secure against this type of attack other than having the retention lug be stronger than the core (so that the core puller would just strip out the screw)?
Looking at the Zieh-Fix website, they show a bit for an impact driver. Can you show whether this speeds up the process over a ratchet or whether that tends to strip out the screw?
Was my thought exactly. Although in my case, was thinking he would read the pinning of the original core, get a key cut for it and build a new lock core with the same pins so the owner was unaware. Not sure how possible that is, but sounds like fun to me.
Does putting that screw in damage the pins? If you have a large area to be re keyed and there isn’t a control key? I’ve used the HPC drill jig to drill a control lug so I can decode the pins and make a control key
This tool is basically a "fuck it" button. The core and pins are probably effectively scrap metal by the time you're done, but the lock does open, which is the overall goal.
can you pick to take the core out or just onlock deliberately? or do you just get what you get when you pick? I've been able to rake interchangeable cores to the master position and the open position. both serve the purpose. I'd like to see you single pin pick the core out of one of these.
My patent pending padlock securement mechanism will block removing a lock core as you just did. A major US padlock mfg. Is coming out with a new high security padlock. They should invite you to their factory for lunch and testing lock first.😊
Not sure if I’m missing something, but is a core puller somehow superior to drilling the lock? Are there counter measures to lock drilling that work against that but are less effective or ineffective against this attack?
I know it wouldn’t make much difference in practice, but how different is the feel with a lock in-use by using a core puller as opposed to having a fresh lock on a desk? I.E. is it harder, easier, etc.? Much like when you pick/bypass some locks, a real world application for some kind of scope would be nice.
Met another fan of yours in Tampa a couple of weeks ago who happens to be a lawyer. Come to think of it, he kinda sounds like you.... hmmm.... (Obviously he’s not you. There are no basements in Florida.).
![[607] Core Puller vs. American Series 700 Padlock](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5xu0q9bKn50/mqdefault.jpg)
![[607] Core Puller vs. American Series 700 Padlock](/img/tr.png)
![[944] .50 BMG vs. Strongest Padlock in the World (Squire SS100CS)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t2l4PVJkhzQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![[905] The War-Lok’s Achilles Heel](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QOTjkZQNkWk/mqdefault.jpg)
![[974] Core Puller vs. “Hyper Tough” Deadbolt](/img/1.gif)
so after stealing the stuff locked behind this, you can steal and reuse the lock as well.
thats a very econimical design
Georg Plaz I imagine stealing all the stuff and rebuilding the lock and the person has to hire a locksmith to find out they’ve been robbed
its as if you we're never there... hmm
Or you can steal the lock, get the pins out of it, then decode it, go online, order a key, then YOU have a key for where ever that you can use whenever. But yeah. You can buy your own cores, operating keys and control key haha
So one thing you can do is create a lock that instead of pins, has one unit thick wafers piled on top of each other. The result of this is that the lock will still "function", however will be unlockable with any key. Since most people don't try incorrect keys on their locks, this gives the owner the impression that the lock still functions correctly, yet gives the perpetrator the ability to come and go at will.
That said, for a padlock, unless it's distinctive in some way, this would be easier implemented in the field by just replacing the whole padlock with your custom one, rather than just the core.
Lol 😂😂
Remove core, replace core with your own one. Lock owner comes back with his key and cannot get in. LPL Pranks
You tried to stop me from stealing stuff from your garage, gg you played yourself
That core puller is one hell of a piece of kit. It amazes me every time
Decades ago we used giant slide-hammers that were originally used for straightening car bumpers.
This is the Lock Breaking Lawyer and what I have for you today...
Hahahaha
Nice click out of 1,2,3,4,5 all at the same time. Congrats on getting to a million subs!
Serious question. Is any lock secure from the core puller?
I want to know the answer to that, too.
In theory, that's one of the things putting a hardened steel plate in front of the lock protects from... But in practice, I imagine the screw would, instead, completely mess up the softer brass internals of the cylinder.
adder2204 I’m guessing unless it has a self jamming or fusing mechanism which would render it permanently locked through the infliction of the damaged, then probably not. Years ago I was involved with building armoured cars; in them the strength of the protection comes down to as much the car as well as the driver, they provide escape time not full on defence or bunker protection, a good driver will get you out a bad one will get you killed. Perhaps much like it, a lock is a deterrent not an insurmountable barrier 🤷🏻♂️
I'm guessing anything with decent drill protection.
From a material standpoint, if you were to use a hardened steel core, I guess it would be fairly difficult to insert the screw properly, and in that case pulling the core would then be kinda hard. As I'm kind of a noob when it comes to locks, I don't know wether hardened core exist. I bet they would be quite costly, and probably not worth the price increment with regard to a brass core with a good reinforced shielding.
Destroying or picking, I enjoy this channel both because it’s entertaining watching you speedily open them, and because I’m terrified when I reflect on the implications
Can we see a lock being picked using only a Master Lock?
Bang two masterlocks against each other, both pop open.
@@punker-gamer-trucker-guy put a brazzers tag on that
@ Brian Ashton & Ben Snow ---> Post a RUclips video parody of that... titled as "Master Bang 2 Locks Open" with the hash tag #Brazzers... 2 Master Locks Banged Open Together... stand back & observe how many viral views it gets on RUclips.
@@christopherlawler3033 omfg yes someone please do this!
he already did its video 6832
Product improvement: Add some detachable (screw-in) handles to the sides of that core puller.
afn29129 David. I guess that if the padlock was locked in place the shackle would stop the padlock from turning
Something he and Bosnian Bill could make.
Or an impact driver with a deep socket
This is me and today I was able to put all those videos of yours I watched to open a lock for a locker at work that someone lost the key to. Luckly it was a very bad lock and a raking attack was all I needed but I would had no idea what to do if it wasn't for this videos (Obviously I was authorized to open the locker but a intern lost the key and we would have to destroy something to get back in otherwise!)
My Grandfather always said "Locks are for keeping honest people out. Criminals will get in any way, any way they can."
Not letting people know you have shit worth stealing is the best security device and is basically free
Thanks for the demonstration
I expected that the core would separate- leaving the cam and outer ring in place. It’s nice to learn something new.
LPL ... amazingly strong core puller. A clean and neat extraction mission. Satisfying!
man, seeing you holding onto the lock while driving that screw into it is pretty terrifying. I would imagine the chances of getting hurt are minimal, but i would imagine that any accident would likely be a pretty gnarly one.
screws are not so keen to pull themselves into flesh
The bit driver he was using makes the chances to almost zero. Worst case scenario the lock just rotates in his hand.
All locks provide in security situations is provide 3 basic things; (1.) Adequate deterrence to physical attack, (2.) Buy time for detection in the event of a physical attack or other means of mechanical bypass or nondestructive manipulation. (3.) Require specialized tools/equipment & skillful strategic planning to affect a successful defeat via forced entry or nondestructive manipulation [such as picking/raking/bumping or decoding/impressioning of the locking mechanism itself.]
Most locks with 3rd party ratings (UL-437 or ANSI/BHMA 156.30) for resistance to the above mentioned attacks have been tested mostly by using common, commercially obtained tools, such as drills, hanmers, cutters, and the like... not involving anything seemingly exotic as specialized tools such as this demonstrated lock core/cylinder puller.
In fact, UL-437 specifically lists the qualifying tools used in its tests regarding the resistance of high security locking devices against physical, forced entry attack vectors.
ANSI/BHMA 156.30 Has similar testing criterion to UL-437 with the addition of slightly longer resistance time when it comes to nondestructive manipulation, such as lock-picking in particular, in addition to effective patent-protected key-control technology to prevent unauthorized key duplication for high-security rated lock & key systems.
However, a high security locking device is only as secure as whatever it is secured to; such as a door (as in the case of a padlock securing a door or a gate) or an immovable object (as in the case of a padlock/chain combination that is securing portable equipment against theft or unauthorized use.)
Hasps mounted to wood doors using small, short wood screws could easily be pried or torn free from it's mountings regardless of whatever padlock is used with it... whereas the same hasp that is through-bolted to the door & frame would then offer a significant amount of resistance to prying and hammer blows... (once again, using commonly obtained hand-tools that could be acquired from the local retail hardware store.)
I'm sure that once this particular form or method of physically attacking and defeating locks reaches mainstream attention (as such as what lock-bumping did nearly some 15 years ago), lock manufacturers will then respond with the typical reactive approach of engineering or designing their products to more adequately resist such physical attack methodology...
In practice, physical security locks only provide one layer or aspect of security, as there are other security layers or aspects to be considered, in particular - what I call "passive observation or monitoring systems" of security alarms, surveillance cameras, trained guard/attack dog(s), roving security guards or sentries... as well as other more exotic technologies (such as infrared heat & motion sensing triggers that are designed to work integrated into an alarm system with other sensing technologies...
Multiple security layers or different sets of locked barriers such as doors or gates would definitely act as a viable deterrent to the casual thief or prowler...
Time and noise seem to by the issues involved with unauthorized access. The more time it takes and/or the noisier the attack is the more likely you are to be caught. So you choose your defense along these lines. I would expect multiple defense lines when securing high value items.
You just had 1 million subscribers, you are already at 1.2 million...... another 200,000 subscribers already? This is awesome seeing him go from starting out to being the most subscribed youtube lock picker.
LPL opening wine: "And if we look down there, we can see we're making good progress pulling that core out..."
What a Awesome video Mr.L.P.L, great stuff,to be learned here
LPL got some HP for the drill on this one. No magic smoke. Nice.
"Hmm, that does not wanna turn."
Padlock: "Holy shit!"
*Opens*
Have a problem in San Francisco with people using lockpick guns to get into and steal tools from weather guard toolboxes (truck bed toolboxes). Could you do an episode on making these locks resistant to that type of attack?
@Ian Duke Do you know of a lock that can replace the weatherguard lock? It doesn't rotate, it moves axially (ionno if I spelled that right) if I could just replace the core, I would.
"Okey so today we have this Masterlock next gen padlock. Firstly I am just going to drill this screw into the key-way." *click nose as padlock opens* "okey, well that's all I have time for today."
Haha, we learned during german police training that the tool "Zieh-Fix" is a tool often used for burglaries. Obviously a very effective tool to get in somewhere rather quickly and effectively.
So if i ever find one of these on a suspect, it's a jackpot.
That tool is a beast!! The Germans really know what they are doing!!
Had hoped the screw alone bumps the mechanism and opens it. But ohwell it was funny enough it went in there.
Here is some Background about the Zieh-Fix Glocke (Core remover)
Its a device commonly used by Firefighters in Germany (and probabaly by many others) to open doors of people in need of help.
Thats because its pretty fast, reliable and easy to use. Most importantly it only destroys the Lock and Not the whole door.
Just so you know that this isnt its intended use, but still pretty intresting to See how ist handles such locks
I've seen you do some product reviews in the past, but I'd really be interested in seeing you break down your personal tool collection and your rationale for why you have it in the kit vs other alternatives.
I love that core puller, it's nice
The LPL needs to get those gym gains up. His hands are too pampered for this sort of stuff 😂💪🏻
I always knew the retaining cam was the weak link of the BEST system. Frank Best probably knew this as well. They were always impossible for me to pick however.
It's still much, much better than the spring loaded pin that Schlage ICs use. Just drill a hole, push pin, remove core. Only need to go through about 1/8" of material for a common padlock size. Found that out when I assembled a SFIC lock with the over-rotation disk in backwards. Couldn't turn the core to open the lock or remove the core to fix my mistake.
The LockPickingLawyer is probably the only one that could break into your house, change the core and lock YOU out.
I would suggest using a knipex 8603250 smooth jaw pliers to hold the outside of the puller. It'll give you the extra leverage you need and won't damage the face of the puller.
Nice job. Would be a great tool for locksmith.
After you finish with the core puller you should hit it with the ramset, and then leave it where your other locks can see. That way they know what happens to locks that disappoint you.
PERFECT!! This is the lock I was waiting to see this tried on!! I was curious what would happen. Thank you, Harry!!
I would like to see this type of attack on that squire lock you know the one I’m thinking of the BIG one.
qwertyes didn't LPL and BB shoot that big one with a 50bmg?
jaydel2929 yes that’s why I wanna see this attack with it just to see how durable both are because reason
Squire stronghold 100
Going to 1000 Vids, going to do something special LPL?! I'm excited nevertheless!
I'm predicting an elbow reveal.
true fans have seen his elbows in his skateboard made of locks crossover with that skate channel
Great video! Thanks for sharing❗❗❗ 🙂🙂🙂 👍👍👍
The forbidden coffee grinder.
the main defense against a core puller is using hard but not brittle metals like spring steel however the cost is 2-3x brass which is why its not commonly used. Brass is cheep and easy to machine because its a soft metal
LPL, can you do a longer form video, where you go through your process of figuring out what to do with a new lock? most of the time you pick something, you've probably already ruled out a bunch of things first. I'd love to see your process.
After all that, the lock held up pretty well.
High tension work with bare hands right next to the tension point always makes me so anxious.
Just thinking "I sure hope that screw doesn't break."
But LPL is certainly much smarter in this stuff than I am. I can't imagine he'd put himself in danger.
Following from Kenya
The core puller could do with an added gripper/handle for ease. It looks cumbersome but does the job with ease. Nice. Thanks.
You have good grip to get as far as you did with no backup
Hey LPL, have you tried out the newer Tapplock fingerprint lock? I want you to make a video on that and let us know it's vulnerabilities. Thanks!
You reached 1M subs !!!!
CONGRATS !!!
Congrats on reaching 1MILLION SUBS!!!
Kinda curious what u have in store for a celebration video
Idea to protect against core pullers. Adapt the key way / core to be on some kind of bearing so when you try to screw in it just spins.
LPL: we don't need the core, we're going to open this lock with a follower.
Looking forward to episode 1000. Imagine it will be something quite special, like an impenetrable masterlock... Lol
"like an impenetrable masterlock" - please don't say things like that: LPL would have to stop at video 999 ...
I can make a masterlock unpickable.
It would also make it unopenable by the key, or anything short of an angle grinder.
what are the cores made out of that they allow a screw to be screwed into it, could another material core be strong enough?
Thank you! I was wondering how the core puller would work a sfic core. seems a lot easier than drilling it out
I'd be curious to see this against something even heftier like the rotalock
I wonder, would one of those portable electric crimping tools (pex pipe, ferrules for electrical work) or a tool for creating punchouts in electrical boxes would have enough power to pull a core?
Would've liked a look inside the lock after the core was out. Seems you needed a pretty specialized tool to open the lock even after it was gutted.
Should use a impact drill with the screwdriver and deepwell socket. Will make it a lot quicker.
I would like to see it used on a Kwikset Smart Lock, newest generation. To see if a new core can be put back in the lock and everything works as before, without the tool doing any damage to the housing.
Would drill resistant pins provide any protection defeating the self tapping screw used for this core puller? Seems like if you could prevent that screw from taking purchase inside the core you could defeat this tool.
Now I can pick your lock and steal your lock!
And reuse your lock
If you replaced the core with an identical core would this be non-tamper evident?
Essentially, almost yes. You'd have to take apart the lock to look for scrape marks.
Best bet is just to look for metal shavings on the floor XD
It's all well and fine using decent locks but what heppens if you ise the core puller on something horrible such as a TriCircle padlock
Which will fail first the core or the body?
Can you drive that screw in without the use of a powered drill? Like with a ratchet or something?
This took longer than the last two videos combined. Still fun to watch though.
Is there any way to secure against this type of attack other than having the retention lug be stronger than the core (so that the core puller would just strip out the screw)?
Looking at the Zieh-Fix website, they show a bit for an impact driver. Can you show whether this speeds up the process over a ratchet or whether that tends to strip out the screw?
What happened to the groove where the retainer lug anchored normally that type of attack leaves a sloppy fit for the replacement core.
That core puller could be attached to a pneumatic punch for electrical boxes to make it easier...
Can core puller work on car ignition to start car and make to go?
Anyone know where he got the metal tool he pulls out at 2:42? I have one in plastic but want metal
he probably made it himself
What is the name of the metal rod that is used to open the lock after it has been picked?
Do Anti-drill pins and inserts made any difference to the core puller, or at least make it harder to get the screw into the core?
The LockPickingLawyer is the type of guy that would replace the core of a lock with his own after breaking in.
Was my thought exactly. Although in my case, was thinking he would read the pinning of the original core, get a key cut for it and build a new lock core with the same pins so the owner was unaware. Not sure how possible that is, but sounds like fun to me.
That'd sure baffle some investigators.
Does putting that screw in damage the pins? If you have a large area to be re keyed and there isn’t a control key? I’ve used the HPC drill jig to drill a control lug so I can decode the pins and make a control key
This tool is basically a "fuck it" button. The core and pins are probably effectively scrap metal by the time you're done, but the lock does open, which is the overall goal.
What was the thing that you inserted after the core was pulled to unlock it please? Thanks
are you going to make a PacLock 200A ramset video like you mentioned?
can you pick to take the core out or just onlock deliberately? or do you just get what you get when you pick?
I've been able to rake interchangeable cores to the master position and the open position. both serve the purpose. I'd like to see you single pin pick the core out of one of these.
What would happen if you drove the puller with something like an impact driver?
How long should the screw b and what is that peice u have on back of screw and what’s the piece on drill
Could you use a good impact gun to turn the core puller or is it too difficult?
tried to watch your playlists an they say private... or unavailable
My patent pending padlock securement mechanism will block removing a lock core as you just did. A major US padlock mfg. Is coming out with a new high security padlock. They should invite you to their factory for lunch and testing lock first.😊
Are there are any cores with steel retainers rather than brass?
I've seen a lot of those little hole (black) under the core, what is that for? Sorry if this already have been answered before. Thanks in advance.
Can you use the core puller on a Bowley lock?
Can you use the drill instead of the ratchet?
Works well for only a little dffort.!
Does that thing have enough torque to break spot-welds?
Where can i buy the disc detainer pick bonianbill and you made???
I think this would work on a Squire Stronghold as the base plate design should shear on one side!
Not sure if I’m missing something, but is a core puller somehow superior to drilling the lock? Are there counter measures to lock drilling that work against that but are less effective or ineffective against this attack?
Is there a padlock of a relatively average size that will defeat the core puller?
Do you have a suggestion for a good lock for a bicycle?
What if you use a pneumatic screwdriver to drive the puller? Or maybe some heavy duty electric...
I've always wondered if using a cordless impact wrench would be faster at pulling the core than just using a ratchet.
I know it wouldn’t make much difference in practice, but how different is the feel with a lock in-use by using a core puller as opposed to having a fresh lock on a desk? I.E. is it harder, easier, etc.? Much like when you pick/bypass some locks, a real world application for some kind of scope would be nice.
You’re sitting alone in your house, 3AM and you hear click out of 1, 2 is binding, click out of 3.
Nice click out of 4 and we're in. Now to pick and gut the residents of this house
Met another fan of yours in Tampa a couple of weeks ago who happens to be a lawyer. Come to think of it, he kinda sounds like you.... hmmm.... (Obviously he’s not you. There are no basements in Florida.).
and congratulations on the 1m subscribers