Some important points you left out: First of all, the height of the rider. Shorter riders (or younger kids) have smaller legs so they need shorter cranks to have the same efficiency and/or comfort in pedaling. Second, the crank length makes a huge difference depending on the size of your frame. If you have a small TT size and short chainstays, say like on a flatland frame, a mini race frame or short chainstays on a tech street frame, if your cranks are too long you will be hitting your feet on the rear pegs or front tire.... that's why flatland bikes will traditionally have 155/160/165mm cranks and why street brands are now making 165/170mm cranks for there new frames with sub 13" chainstays. >> In practical riding terms, a short crank has a faster/easier acceleration on the first couple of cranks, like mentioned in the video it's as if it has a lower gearing. This is usefull depending on your riding style/tricks. For example people who ride "tech" street will enjoy this ease in taking off and transitioning from one trick to another. If your a dirt jumper that extra torque of the 180mm cranks will give you more speed through the trails.
I did forget to talk about feet hitting pegs and tires. As for the last paragraph of your comment, you have things a little confused. Im not sure if you actually meant to say longer but you wrote shorter so I'll base my reply on that. Shorter cranks are actually harder to get moving initially because they produce less leverage. This is why you see longer cranks within racing (where starting can literally make or break a race) and why you would use a longer wrench instead of a shorter one to loosen a stuck bolt/nut. When it comes to dirt jumpers, I don't know the exact math behind how having bigger wheels affects gearing, but I do know that I have seen several people who have both a BMX and a DJ with shorter cranks on their DJ. I appreciate your reply, thank you for watching.
I get what you mean about the leverage of longer cranks, in theory you apply less force to move the bike. Correct. but in real world bmx street riding, the difference in force applied between a short and long crank isn't really big. (those micro measurements are more important in road racing or bmx racing) Where you DO notice a bigger difference is in the distance your legs move in the rotation. With shorter cranks (yes you apply a tiny bit more force) but the movement of your legs is smaller and faster, and that "feels" easier in "tech street" riding where your doing very short distances and at slow speeds. I know it's a bit confusing and contradictory but I guess you have to give them a try to see for yourself. (or maybe it's just down to personal preference).
You agree that longer cranks = more leverage = less force required to move the bike. With this being proven by math and physics, it cannot be argued. It's fact not theory. The inverse of this is that shorter cranks = less leverage = more force required to move the bike. More force = harder pedaling/more energy required to produce the same result as longer cranks on an identical setup. Once up to speed however, shorter cranks make it easier to keep pace than on an identically setup bike with longer cranks. All of this is stated in the video. It is very confusing, which is why I had to make this video twice just to make sure that all information in it was correct.
@@Brant_Moore hi bro i am 38 and new to bmx. I bought a starter bmx 3 weeks ago and i been having a blast it's a 100%cromo black on grey L100 i bought for 250 bucks. Now i love the bike, and i know it's not the best bike in the parts department but, that's the point, to work on it and upgrade to after market parts while learning to repair my bike. My question is, what's the best size cranks to buy for street riding? The ones i have are 175mm and that feels a bit long to me.
@@hurdleyrowe891 Hey I know this is an old comment, but you may still be looking to change your crank length. I rode 170 for a while, and switched to 165 recently. Really I like both, I also don't care for 175 too much, and prefer 165 or 170. But there is no real answer to what is the best, for that is personal preference. If you are used to 175, maybe try 170, before jumping down to 165. 5 mm is a noticeable difference in crank length. Since cranks are very expensive, I'd recommend trying to see if you can ride a friend's bike or something first, before investing money into cranks you may not like. Hope this helps
It dose matter depending on what u ride for park/dirt 175-170mm is the best and for street and heavy rail users a shorter crank helps keep the pedals a little farther from the rail and help with balance I’ve tried 165mm and I’ve found they do help in that area but I’ll always stick with the 175mm
I'm a short guy 160mm is what feels good for me. Anything over 165mm and I can't handle it, I feel like I need longer legs. Over time I have saved sprockets that I use to match the way I ride being a short guy with a short crank.
172.5 Is my sweet spot after i turned 18. I'm an old road racer and I was gear restricted to 100in per pedal rotation as a junior, so then I ran shorter cranks since I wasn't allowed to have bigger gears than a 53-15
@Brant_Moore it was the 80's I was racing in the USCF as a category 3 junior. They made us restrict our gears to a 15 in the back even though 12's were available. The reason was they wanted us to spin instead of lug on our developing knees. I'm 56, ridden my whole life and I don't have knee problems, so apparently they were right to do that.
This is great. Lots of awesome points. I'd ridden 175 forever, had a chance to choose a size on my recent build. Went with 165 and they feel awesome. Have knee pain in more extreme range of motion which we obviously use in freestyle anyway but lifting my knee and especially pushing my foot forward is the worst so they help. Also I tend to pedal from my hips and core, more then mashing down with my legs so the smaller circle feel better. I'm even goofy footed so I'm interested to see if spins feel noticeably different.
You forgot one important issue. I myself am 6'.3" shoe size 14 , I ride or pedal with front of foot or on toes because the back of my foot will catch the rear pegs. Big guy issues , which shorter crank arms could be a solution.
Hey Brant - just want to say that your videos are fantastic. Super informative and communicated in a way that anyone can understand. I walk away learning something new every time.
I'm running 190mm cranks, and I'm about to swap to 230mm cranks, and this is by far the best reference material I have found in all of my research. Just for reference, 230mm cranks is only an 18" gait. Which is still a shuffle step. Shorter gait causes hip joint disfigurement.
I think it all depends on how it feels for you and how good you get back on and how tall you are which brings me to the next question how tall are you and what size do you use what size frame do you use do you use a 21 or 20
Been running 175mm primo powerbites that are about 13 years old - I swear by them. In my mind 5mm isn't enough to get a huge difference in feel, but that's me. I've tried from 165 to 180 and like you say, it's personal preference. A friend recently got a new frame that has a shorter back end to what he's used to and had to go down 10mm in crank size so his heel didn't hit his peg on crank rotations all the time, something to keep in mind if you go for one of those shorter back end frames.
Yea I feel like 5mm isn’t a big deal either. At least you’ve tried it all. Haha More than I can say. The new Nowear frame has a super short rear end. No heel peg issues for me yet luckily.
@Michael Pastorius Hey mate, the pedal bosses on mine are starting to wear out where it inserts into the crank so the pedal comes loose every other session, but otherwise still strong as ever. I'm currently looking at replacing them with some Eclat Mavericks just for a freshen up of the rig. How are yours holding up?
@Michael Pastorius Wow that's cool! I've never seen someone mod them to a 19mm spindle, very clever if you can't get 22mm easily - yeah probably explains why they don't quite align though. I have the same issue with an old set where the aluminum has deformed and doesn't sit on the square spindle properly anymore. As long as they don't have any cracks in the pinch bolts they should be fine strength wise. Also your english is great! I wouldn't have even known if you didn't mention it.
@Michael Pastorius A bike check would be cool, nice to see what people around the world ride. Yep so I've got the spacer inside the bottom bracket that runs between the bearings (the long one) then very thin spacers on the outside of the bearings, between the crank arm and the BB. I've run more/less in the past depending on the frame clearance. Sometimes the 22mm chainring adapter is enough to space it out, but depends on your frame width.
I remember when I was younger all the pros were running 180mm cranks so I bought a pair to replace my 175mm. I'm 5'5" and I honestly should have tried 170mm before I bought. 180mm makes one leg fully extended and the other dang near calf to thigh. Now I'm on 165mm and haven't had a chance to try them yet but I am excited to.
@COSMO yes. I like the 165s since I'm a little shorter. The 180s are a lot of leg movement to pedal. I'm definitely sticking with shorter cranks. The 180s are fine on my dirt jumper but even then I'd like shorter cranks
Firstly I just want to say I watch a lot of your vids Brant. Always clear information and they are really helpful. Almost any topic I want to know about, you cover it. *appreciation* I have always rode 28-9t and 175 cranks, but I'm just on the verge of buildong up a new bike for which I have opted for a 25t sprocket and 165mm cranks. My reason is partly I'm old and I feel like I will be more comfortable with less eccentric knee and hip travel, but also the closer feet thing really resonates as does greater clearance around 165mm cranks. I'm 5'10" maybe 5'11" and I ride mild street and mild park. In between I ride my BMX as a form of transport. I'm never absolutely tearing it up at high speed for purely transport, because I'm also brakeless in a densely populated city. I don't need rapid acceleration from a standing start. So I'm hoping switching to 165s is a success, but I couldn't find anybody else with 165s to try out first. So I'll report back when I know if anybody is interested.
After 30+ years of riding I can say I have rode 180, 175, 172 (Profile) and 170mm cranks. As far as jumping and hopping it’s untrue. Not even a question but a fact. Shorter cranks pretty much as you said (minus the hop/jump thing). Now, the biggest key issue is 2 things. 1- Yes the weight is a fact by a few grams unless you are going from 180 to 160mm you will not notice any weight change in a 170 vs 175 for example. 2- If you hit your pegs with your heals...you probably should get a set of 5mm shorter cranks. Unless you just have a frame that is way too small for you. The length is not really noticeable unless you have rode atleast 1-2 years and I mean rode alot. And it should fix the problem. Trust me something so tiny as a peg on the heel MIGHT not bother you 99% of the time. BUT...that 1% it bothers you could be an ER trip from a trip due to you going for a trick and pulling it 99% only to try to put your foot on. Hits the peg you miss the pedal and slam bad. Just measure your current cranks and see what 5mm will do to foot position and the pegs. Or as stated in the video check it out on someone else’s bike. You probably won’t notice it and if you do keep in mind Profile (I know for a fact) makes 172mm cranks. And then you can avoid the peg problems and only lose a tiny bit of length. I honestly never really noticed anything different from my 175’s and 172’s. I could jump on a friends bike with 175’s and could not feel a difference. Now the 5mm as I said some might but 3... I can say (at that point riding 10-11yrs) I didn’t.
Is longer cranks better for manuals? Like you an lean more on your back foot so you have more weight on the rear wheel? I think you need to address that as well. I think shorter crank will make manuals worse. BTW i like your vids and overall style❤
Saw you never got an answer. I’ve rode every length from 160 to 175 and what I’ve noticed personally is that it really had no difference on my manuals. I could also comfortably switch between lengths and manual just as far.
Sir Brant, See im 6'1" tall, obviously with long legs. I've been riding with 170mm for quiet a time, and its been very comfortable for me having that popping up when bunnyhopping. But i broke the pinch bolt of my cranks (which is funny coz i am only learning how to bunnyhop and nothing more)... and replaced it with 160mm, which is i think i made a mistake buying a very shorter crank, and not knowing it will have a BIG effect on me hopping. I dont know if i need some breaking in or getting used to riding with 160mm, because i am really having a hard time with leverage of popping up for a bunnyhop, as if i cant bend my knees coz they are too close to each other. I dont know. It just doesnt feel right to me. It felt small and rigid. I have to agree that it lessen my knee pain from pedalling. But my concern is the popping not the pedalling, I lost that popping sensation when i switched to 160mm compared to as when i was using 170mm before I am really comfortable hopping. I dont know... Not so sure since i am an old 35 yr old beginner. I love your video coz its very detailed and full of encouragement. But i hope you can help me with my personal problem coz i am just a beginner. Thank you
yeah when i do tailwhips i find it much easier to do with shorter cranks, it makes my body feel more centered on the bike and since my feet don't have to be so far apart its easier to find the pedals
I love longer cranks because my bmx bikes are used for offroad to get to my fishing spots and longer crank arms provide nice low end torque. I also do a 52÷16×24=78 ratio on my 24 inch race bmx much higher than a normal 44÷16x20=55 ratio that bmx bikes normally have.
Well I switched my frame from 13,65” CS to 12,9” CS then after 2 weeks of riding I got myself 165mm cranks to replace 175mm cranks. Difference was huge, my heels didn’t hung up on pegs and spinning and hoping was easier.
I feel it just a preference. Like cranks around 170mm. That’s only because my legs are long and 170mm just feels more fluid. 160mm feel like my stride is restricted. But I’m sure this is just because I grew up riding longer cranks and that is what my body is used to.
Well i have one piece cranks and i don't know the length of them.but i personally believe that 1 piece cranks are not that bad because 1:they are cheaper 2: they dont bend easily 3:they dont break Yes i know i might be wrong but i have done drop 8 staircase and they handled it not once but 7 times (thats when it started raining)
One-piece cranks are perfectly fine, though they tend to be heavier than 3-piece cranks, because they are made of a single piece of solid steel rather than steel tubing or aluminum.
Im not a weight weenie but I'd love to try some 165's out. Not enough to buy a new set tho, I'm sticking with my 175s. I've been playing around with different sprocket sizes and its much cheaper and easier to swap. I'd like to see a video about sprockets form you.
Wassup bud. I perfer 170, to 175. 180s were to long for me but they were on my friends racing bike and I could see why he used them. Just personal preference. They were 180 flight cranks which were super solid feeling also.
I run 175mm on a 13.2" chainstay and 34mm ø pegs. Never caught my foot because that's the set up I'm used to. It's all about what you're used to riding. I've found the pegs have saved me a few times because there's a 98mm gap between the pedal and peg, that's just under 4". On the odd rough landing my foot has landed on the peg and pedal which gave me enough of a platform to maintain control and not die.
im on a 12.5 cs frame and i will change my cranks from 150mm to 170mm im only using 2 pegs i hope my foot dont get caught in the back pegs.I still need a spindle to use the cranks
I Road 175s for over 11 years I switched to 170 I love it and I switched my sprockets are used to ride the 25 tooth now I write a 28 tooth I’m never going back
Right on man! I haven't noticed much of a different in having 170 vs 175 which I had for years and years, but the difference between 25 and 28 is night and day for sure!
thank you for the info, this does make sense!! I have a diamond back w/ an American made bottom bracket at any rate the opening is some what larger than these current bmx bikes now a days... I think I'm gonna upgrade to a 170 mm three piece!
175 feels good. But with a knee problem I'm considering shorter. However, it can only get just so short before it feels like a clown bike. I understand why some guys go to 160, for example. But that further takes away from the bike just riding like a bike. An ethos I've always held. I don't want bars in my lap, I only want the seat down when I need it down, and I don't want child size cranks. The bike has to be a bike first, otherwise it's just a specialized piece of sports equipment.
Lol, I guess it is, but it's also just a jump on it and go cruiser. The bikes have gotten smaller over the years. But there is no question it works, just look what people are doing. As long as I have a quick release seatpost clamp I can deal.
When i raced i run 180mm cranks.On my street bike sins new frame back ends are getting shorter and if you got BIG feet you need shorter cranks so your heals don't clip the back pegs when your riding along.I use 165mm cranks on my street bike \m/
Thanks for putting this together. After some research, I think it’s something that I’ll adapt too pretty quick if any changes are made. I tend to go for cranks a tad on the longer side. I commute with my bike a lot, along with beginner tricks for now on the street. I live in the city so it’s a lot of stop and go or slowing down, changing direction and stuff. So the ease of low speed pedaling helps.
Here's what I've always thought. Let's say u have 44x16 gearing. With 180mm cranks u get an advantage off the line but I can't spin those very fast. On the other hand with 165mm cranks u have less leverage taking off but u can spin them way faster and for the same gearing reach higher top speeds. On a single gear bike I prefer short cranks. And a bike with gears and really long rides a slower consistent circle works best. Also the lack of torque with shorter cranks could be made up for by muscle strength. Thoughts ?@brant_moore
So which makes it easier to manual? Because you disproved all theories I had but also disproved the opposite of those theories as well it was like I was wrong both way when I thought about it so do you think shorter is better for manuals and a short rear end?
I dont know for sure if crank length has an effect on manualling but if it does what would be logical in my mind is longer cranks giving your more control. When it comes to frames, short rear ends mean they're more twitchy and easier to loop out. Long rear ends mean they're more controlled but harder to get balanced. If you're just starting to learn manuals, a normal length rear end might help out, but in all honesty its so easy for us to get used to different setups I think that anything in the middle of the spectrum wont give much a of a noticeable affect after an hour of riding. People can adapt and learn on just about anything if they really want to learn something. Its probably not until you get into switching from a super short rear end frame to a super long rear end frame or vice versa that the effects might be longer lasting.
Yes you should be able to without much problem or too much time needed to adjust. Hopefully it helps you out enough to earn your subscription! Thanks for watching
What about manuals?? are shorter cranks better for manuals? I ride 170mm with 13.65cs frame. Now that I already have a 12.75cs frame I have a plan on buying 155mm cranks.
Crank arms is determine for the rider. But what I’m also wondering is that if it determines the size rims and tires you have determines on your sprockets you might use. Smaller the rim, bigger the sprocket. Bigger the rim, smaller the sprocket. I was also wondering if smaller sprockets with 170mm crank arms make it easier to do wheelies cause of the crank arm for torque.
There’s definitely something to that because pedaling a 26” DJ with a 28/9 gear ratio and 175mm cranks is much easier than pedaling a BMX bike with the same
That’s an interesting thought. Foot placement can probably account for at least some of the stance differences in crank length but that wouldn’t change and if the pedaling differences. An interesting take on it for sure
@@Brant_Moore the way I see it, our discipline, freestyle-bmx, has less pedalling than most other cycling disciplines but relies heavily on the entire body for control. Comfortable and consistent foot placement strikes me as a crucial part of that control and helps with landing in awkward places. My preference probably stems from the fact 175mm is the industry standard so my muscle memory is based on that. I've ridden 175mm so long that my stance naturally spaces to fit it.
I have 4 pegs and the fit indent 24 in 170mm. Do you think going from 170 to 160 would be a big difference? I ride street mainly and a little park and stuff
So I have a wack stance, I’m left food forward, right hand throw, and my right side is my dominant side hop. I also have some large feet and my pegs are on my right side, so my foot often clips my peg if I want to do manuals or just have a normal stance. Should I get shorter cranks to account for my weirdness?
@Brant_Moore I ride some really tiny odyssey pegs, and the heel of my foot will sometimes hit if I ride in my comfortable stance, so I have to move my right foot forward in order to manual
Hey bro nice video but I'm just getting back into street riding. I haven't purchased a bike yet $300 is my limit I've been researching the 2013 Khe Evo 0.1 or 0.3 they're full chromoly frame forks and bars. Is that A good start for me? I've compared every other bike at this range and nothing compares to the 0.3.
Full chromoly everything is your main concern for longevity on the bike. Sealed hubs and double walled rims are also huge, so if it has all of that you really can’t beat it without buying a top of the line complete. Sounds like you’ve done your research! Thanks for watching the video man! Hope it’s enough to earn your subscription
Right. I've bought a new frame with shorter chainstays and the first ride I had to move my feet forward on the pedals to not hit the pegs when pedaling. Considering shorter crank arms now tho I like them long for leverage.
Newer frames have short chain stays (13.5") so 175mm will be too long and your heels will hit the rear pegs. My older frame has 15" chain stays, and 175mm cranks fit fine in the heel department. But for a modern freestyle frame, 160mm or 165mm is the way to go, so your heels don't hit the rear pegs. Now I have two bikes, one old and one new.
I'mma buy cranks, Primo Powerbites are said to be indestructible.... Eclat Tibia with 170 or 165mm may fit my style, but are hard to get, damn! btw. Does length of cranks has something to do with Crankflips?
Hmmm, i hadnt thought about crankflips in relation to crank length. I feel like when compared or measured it would probably be a negligible difference on anything other than the extreme ends of the spectrum
I did some math to calculate torque at the rear wheel with 250 pounds of force applied to the crank with different sprockets and crank arm lengths. 165mm 28t:43.5423 170mm 28t:44.8821 175mm 28t:46.2218 165mm 27t:45.1388 170mm 27t:46.5277 175mm 27t:47.9166 165mm 27t:47.0196 170mm 26t:48.4664 175mm 26t:49.9131 165mm 25t:48.8868 170mm 25t:50.3910 175mm 25t:51.8953
I have a 29 in bmx bike and the stock cranks are 175 mm is it ok if I get a 170 mm crank to use? I feel like it wont have a big difference but I’m not sure I’m just making sure I have a big flyer se bike
I think it's possible that it could have an affect, but I also think that affect on a 5mm change would be so small that its negligible. Maybe if going from like 180 to 160, but other than that I don't know that any difference would be noticeable
Hey man! if u still see old vids' comments I have my old bmx i think its 20.5 but has a longer chainstay ( more like a dirt frame, the front end is not steep either) -i have 175mm cranks and i need to get new ones cuz they are almost broken and stuff Im thinking on getting 160 bcz i myself am 5.7 tall, and i see from comments and vids that they help with tricks , help with knees a bit I want to ride mostly dirt and transitions/halfpipe (think 180s for fun there). Should i try the 160s and see or do u have any opinions u found since u made this vid ;D ?
I’d say if you know someone who has 160 cranks on their bike I would ride it and try to focus on how the cranks themselves feel. If you don’t have the option now, I feel like most things in bmx can be gotten used to. So if you got the shorter cranks you’d likely get used to them regardless
Very detailed explanation thanks, I have a 165mm set up an have to keep my feet perfectly placed to avoid my heel from locking up on the rear peg ,thinking about making a switch to 160mm hopefully it helps..
Boom there you go! Sounds like you have an idea of what could help! Short of getting a frame with a longer rear end or adding extra links to your chain to pull the wheel back further, shorter cranks are about all you can do for that.
Hey bro, I’m looking at buying some cranks but really don’t know what size to run. I’m 5’10 and I have 170mm atm. I’m into lots of street riding so I do spins manuals etc. Would 165mm be suitable?
I was clocked by a friend and her car said I was going over 42 mph,I had 180 crank arms with 44 tooth sprockhet,those were the days fast as hell blastin through town on my redline,it weighed 7 or 8 lbs toatal,
@Brant_Moore for normal cycling it’s like it’s less torque but less effort to get to top speed. I thought they would be really uncomfortable for me as I have size 12 feet, however I have loved them for actual cycling, less effort to get to full speed. It feels like going down a tooth on a sprocket but without feeling to light. For actual bmx it feels better too bunnyhop feels better and feel just general improvement would of preferred 170mm but 165 is great
I recommend the Sheldon Brown gain ratio calculator to come up your ideal combo. www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html It does take into account crank length. I prefer builds around a 4.4 ratio which is the same as a 24" bmx cruiser.
I would start with 170 or 175 until you start to learn the basics of riding and figure out what types of tricks you might want to learn. Thanks for watching! Subscribe if you haven’t:)
Best crank length breakdown for bmx. Human element is not a factor, it is THE factor. The human individual is a factor compromised of so many individual x factors that have variables within each variable. If we were all in a world where we were crash test dummies or production line petry dish standard persons we could count on a standardized test to let us know how one engineered piece of hardware was better than the others without question. The bike that works best for you is the bike you ride the most or the bike you like the best. If you like a bike so much and you believe its the best you wont be satisfied with the performance of any others you dont make perform to the mental standard you have of another bike. If you are riding what you believe is the best you will atleast place the fault or limitations on yourself and try that failed or unpolished trick in the need more practice catagory. In summary if you buy what you believe is the best than you will not be plagued with doubt and you can take ownership of all your efforts. That is how i see it.
The theory about how high you can jump with your feet closer/further apart is honestly so overrated for several reasons. first of all the difference is only about 10-20mm going from "long cranks" to "short cranks" so try jumping with your feet exactly together and then moving them only 10-20mm apart, there will be no difference. Secondly it's not the same thing or the same motion etc. to do a stationary jump as it is to bunnyhop a BMX bike so it's not even a comparable test,
This guy needs more love, your content is so amazing!!!
Thank you so much. I try my best! Anyone can help it happen just by sharing videos
i think i saw more videos on it
Some important points you left out:
First of all, the height of the rider. Shorter riders (or younger kids) have smaller legs so they need shorter cranks to have the same efficiency and/or comfort in pedaling.
Second, the crank length makes a huge difference depending on the size of your frame. If you have a small TT size and short chainstays, say like on a flatland frame, a mini race frame or short chainstays on a tech street frame, if your cranks are too long you will be hitting your feet on the rear pegs or front tire.... that's why flatland bikes will traditionally have 155/160/165mm cranks and why street brands are now making 165/170mm cranks for there new frames with sub 13" chainstays.
>> In practical riding terms, a short crank has a faster/easier acceleration on the first couple of cranks, like mentioned in the video it's as if it has a lower gearing. This is usefull depending on your riding style/tricks. For example people who ride "tech" street will enjoy this ease in taking off and transitioning from one trick to another.
If your a dirt jumper that extra torque of the 180mm cranks will give you more speed through the trails.
I did forget to talk about feet hitting pegs and tires.
As for the last paragraph of your comment, you have things a little confused. Im not sure if you actually meant to say longer but you wrote shorter so I'll base my reply on that.
Shorter cranks are actually harder to get moving initially because they produce less leverage. This is why you see longer cranks within racing (where starting can literally make or break a race) and why you would use a longer wrench instead of a shorter one to loosen a stuck bolt/nut.
When it comes to dirt jumpers, I don't know the exact math behind how having bigger wheels affects gearing, but I do know that I have seen several people who have both a BMX and a DJ with shorter cranks on their DJ.
I appreciate your reply, thank you for watching.
I get what you mean about the leverage of longer cranks, in theory you apply less force to move the bike. Correct.
but in real world bmx street riding, the difference in force applied between a short and long crank isn't really big. (those micro measurements are more important in road racing or bmx racing)
Where you DO notice a bigger difference is in the distance your legs move in the rotation.
With shorter cranks (yes you apply a tiny bit more force) but the movement of your legs is smaller and faster, and that "feels" easier in "tech street" riding where your doing very short distances and at slow speeds.
I know it's a bit confusing and contradictory but I guess you have to give them a try to see for yourself. (or maybe it's just down to personal preference).
You agree that longer cranks = more leverage = less force required to move the bike.
With this being proven by math and physics, it cannot be argued. It's fact not theory.
The inverse of this is that shorter cranks = less leverage = more force required to move the bike.
More force = harder pedaling/more energy required to produce the same result as longer cranks on an identical setup.
Once up to speed however, shorter cranks make it easier to keep pace than on an identically setup bike with longer cranks.
All of this is stated in the video.
It is very confusing, which is why I had to make this video twice just to make sure that all information in it was correct.
@@Brant_Moore hi bro i am 38 and new to bmx. I bought a starter bmx 3 weeks ago and i been having a blast it's a 100%cromo black on grey L100 i bought for 250 bucks. Now i love the bike, and i know it's not the best bike in the parts department but, that's the point, to work on it and upgrade to after market parts while learning to repair my bike. My question is, what's the best size cranks to buy for street riding? The ones i have are 175mm and that feels a bit long to me.
@@hurdleyrowe891 Hey I know this is an old comment, but you may still be looking to change your crank length. I rode 170 for a while, and switched to 165 recently. Really I like both, I also don't care for 175 too much, and prefer 165 or 170. But there is no real answer to what is the best, for that is personal preference. If you are used to 175, maybe try 170, before jumping down to 165. 5 mm is a noticeable difference in crank length. Since cranks are very expensive, I'd recommend trying to see if you can ride a friend's bike or something first, before investing money into cranks you may not like. Hope this helps
It dose matter depending on what u ride for park/dirt 175-170mm is the best and for street and heavy rail users a shorter crank helps keep the pedals a little farther from the rail and help with balance I’ve tried 165mm and I’ve found they do help in that area but I’ll always stick with the 175mm
I'm a short guy 160mm is what feels good for me. Anything over 165mm and I can't handle it, I feel like I need longer legs. Over time I have saved sprockets that I use to match the way I ride being a short guy with a short crank.
172.5 Is my sweet spot after i turned 18.
I'm an old road racer and I was gear restricted to 100in per pedal rotation as a junior, so then I ran shorter cranks since I wasn't allowed to have bigger gears than a 53-15
I know nothing about that world but that's very interesting!
@Brant_Moore it was the 80's I was racing in the USCF as a category 3 junior. They made us restrict our gears to a 15 in the back even though 12's were available. The reason was they wanted us to spin instead of lug on our developing knees. I'm 56, ridden my whole life and I don't have knee problems, so apparently they were right to do that.
Yea that's super interesting to hear about. Also cool that it seems to have worked the way they intended for it to
This is great. Lots of awesome points. I'd ridden 175 forever, had a chance to choose a size on my recent build. Went with 165 and they feel awesome. Have knee pain in more extreme range of motion which we obviously use in freestyle anyway but lifting my knee and especially pushing my foot forward is the worst so they help. Also I tend to pedal from my hips and core, more then mashing down with my legs so the smaller circle feel better. I'm even goofy footed so I'm interested to see if spins feel noticeably different.
Brant Moore, one of the biggest G's and MVP's in the Sport! Thank you for everything :) great video
And thank you for the kind words!!!
Yo! This was exactly the kind of insight I was looking for on this subject. Thanks
Always really happy to hear that it helped someone!! Thanks for letting me know
You forgot one important issue. I myself am 6'.3" shoe size 14 , I ride or pedal with front of foot or on toes because the back of my foot will catch the rear pegs. Big guy issues , which shorter crank arms could be a solution.
Yea man you’re right.
If I ever revisit this one that will definitely be in there
Thanks, Keep up the good work, really enjoy your different style like rock paper scissors on a stall. It great!
Thanks for the kind words man!! I’ll do my best!
24 inch bike
He explains stuff very well and detailed
Thanks so much again!
Facts
Hey Brant - just want to say that your videos are fantastic. Super informative and communicated in a way that anyone can understand. I walk away learning something new every time.
Hey thank you Mark!! I’ll keep doing my best so you can keep learning!
I got 185mm Profile cranks on my dirt jumper, the extra torque does help me gain a higher top speed over the other bikes in my collection
Good video! Forgot one thing though, foot clearance of the front wheel. Shorter cranks, less chance of hitting you foot when doing a bar spin.
There’s always something right?! Haha
Thank you
I'm running 190mm cranks, and I'm about to swap to 230mm cranks, and this is by far the best reference material I have found in all of my research. Just for reference, 230mm cranks is only an 18" gait. Which is still a shuffle step. Shorter gait causes hip joint disfigurement.
Thank you!! I had to make this one twice to make sure I got it all right
I think it all depends on how it feels for you and how good you get back on and how tall you are which brings me to the next question how tall are you and what size do you use what size frame do you use do you use a 21 or 20
Been running 175mm primo powerbites that are about 13 years old - I swear by them. In my mind 5mm isn't enough to get a huge difference in feel, but that's me. I've tried from 165 to 180 and like you say, it's personal preference.
A friend recently got a new frame that has a shorter back end to what he's used to and had to go down 10mm in crank size so his heel didn't hit his peg on crank rotations all the time, something to keep in mind if you go for one of those shorter back end frames.
Yea I feel like 5mm isn’t a big deal either.
At least you’ve tried it all. Haha More than I can say.
The new Nowear frame has a super short rear end. No heel peg issues for me yet luckily.
@Michael Pastorius Hey mate, the pedal bosses on mine are starting to wear out where it inserts into the crank so the pedal comes loose every other session, but otherwise still strong as ever. I'm currently looking at replacing them with some Eclat Mavericks just for a freshen up of the rig. How are yours holding up?
@Michael Pastorius Wow that's cool! I've never seen someone mod them to a 19mm spindle, very clever if you can't get 22mm easily - yeah probably explains why they don't quite align though. I have the same issue with an old set where the aluminum has deformed and doesn't sit on the square spindle properly anymore. As long as they don't have any cracks in the pinch bolts they should be fine strength wise.
Also your english is great! I wouldn't have even known if you didn't mention it.
@Michael Pastorius A bike check would be cool, nice to see what people around the world ride.
Yep so I've got the spacer inside the bottom bracket that runs between the bearings (the long one) then very thin spacers on the outside of the bearings, between the crank arm and the BB. I've run more/less in the past depending on the frame clearance.
Sometimes the 22mm chainring adapter is enough to space it out, but depends on your frame width.
I remember when I was younger all the pros were running 180mm cranks so I bought a pair to replace my 175mm. I'm 5'5" and I honestly should have tried 170mm before I bought. 180mm makes one leg fully extended and the other dang near calf to thigh. Now I'm on 165mm and haven't had a chance to try them yet but I am excited to.
@COSMO yes. I like the 165s since I'm a little shorter. The 180s are a lot of leg movement to pedal. I'm definitely sticking with shorter cranks. The 180s are fine on my dirt jumper but even then I'd like shorter cranks
if you have a back foot peg and long cranks it sucks when your back foot gets stuck while your looping out because you fall on your back really hard
Firstly I just want to say I watch a lot of your vids Brant. Always clear information and they are really helpful. Almost any topic I want to know about, you cover it. *appreciation*
I have always rode 28-9t and 175 cranks, but I'm just on the verge of buildong up a new bike for which I have opted for a 25t sprocket and 165mm cranks.
My reason is partly I'm old and I feel like I will be more comfortable with less eccentric knee and hip travel, but also the closer feet thing really resonates as does greater clearance around 165mm cranks.
I'm 5'10" maybe 5'11" and I ride mild street and mild park. In between I ride my BMX as a form of transport. I'm never absolutely tearing it up at high speed for purely transport, because I'm also brakeless in a densely populated city. I don't need rapid acceleration from a standing start.
So I'm hoping switching to 165s is a success, but I couldn't find anybody else with 165s to try out first. So I'll report back when I know if anybody is interested.
Hey thanks man!
Your reasoning is sound for sure and I'll be curious to hear your follow up
Good stuff! As someone who is returning to BMX and have had my knee worked on, I'll definitely consider going down in size! Very informative, thanks.
Awesome to hear that you got something from the video. Thank you for being here to watch it!
Hopefully it helps enough to earn your subscription
Going down a size makes it harder to pedal
I like my 175cranks
After 30+ years of riding I can say I have rode 180, 175, 172 (Profile) and 170mm cranks. As far as jumping and hopping it’s untrue. Not even a question but a fact. Shorter cranks pretty much as you said (minus the hop/jump thing). Now, the biggest key issue is 2 things. 1- Yes the weight is a fact by a few grams unless you are going from 180 to 160mm you will not notice any weight change in a 170 vs 175 for example. 2- If you hit your pegs with your heals...you probably should get a set of 5mm shorter cranks. Unless you just have a frame that is way too small for you. The length is not really noticeable unless you have rode atleast 1-2 years and I mean rode alot. And it should fix the problem. Trust me something so tiny as a peg on the heel MIGHT not bother you 99% of the time. BUT...that 1% it bothers you could be an ER trip from a trip due to you going for a trick and pulling it 99% only to try to put your foot on. Hits the peg you miss the pedal and slam bad.
Just measure your current cranks and see what 5mm will do to foot position and the pegs. Or as stated in the video check it out on someone else’s bike. You probably won’t notice it and if you do keep in mind Profile (I know for a fact) makes 172mm cranks. And then you can avoid the peg problems and only lose a tiny bit of length. I honestly never really noticed anything different from my 175’s and 172’s. I could jump on a friends bike with 175’s and could not feel a difference. Now the 5mm as I said some might but 3... I can say (at that point riding 10-11yrs) I didn’t.
Is longer cranks better for manuals? Like you an lean more on your back foot so you have more weight on the rear wheel? I think you need to address that as well. I think shorter crank will make manuals worse. BTW i like your vids and overall style❤
Saw you never got an answer. I’ve rode every length from 160 to 175 and what I’ve noticed personally is that it really had no difference on my manuals. I could also comfortably switch between lengths and manual just as far.
Sir Brant,
See im 6'1" tall, obviously with long legs. I've been riding with 170mm for quiet a time, and its been very comfortable for me having that popping up when bunnyhopping.
But i broke the pinch bolt of my cranks (which is funny coz i am only learning how to bunnyhop and nothing more)... and replaced it with 160mm, which is i think i made a mistake buying a very shorter crank, and not knowing it will have a BIG effect on me hopping. I dont know if i need some breaking in or getting used to riding with 160mm, because i am really having a hard time with leverage of popping up for a bunnyhop, as if i cant bend my knees coz they are too close to each other. I dont know. It just doesnt feel right to me. It felt small and rigid. I have to agree that it lessen my knee pain from pedalling. But my concern is the popping not the pedalling, I lost that popping sensation when i switched to 160mm compared to as when i was using 170mm before I am really comfortable hopping. I dont know... Not so sure since i am an old 35 yr old beginner. I love your video coz its very detailed and full of encouragement. But i hope you can help me with my personal problem coz i am just a beginner. Thank you
I know I'm watching this 4 years later but I've heard that shorter crank arm length can help if you have pegs.
yeah when i do tailwhips i find it much easier to do with shorter cranks, it makes my body feel more centered on the bike and since my feet don't have to be so far apart its easier to find the pedals
Great video! This helped a lot I'm going from a WTP 180MM to an Odyssey 175 but I'm 6'2" so I hope it all works out.
It’ll definitely be okay! Thanks for watching!
I got my 10 year old a 20.5" bike. I was wondering if a shorter crank length would make the bike fit better. Thoughts?
It definitely could fit better with shorter cranks
I love longer cranks because my bmx bikes are used for offroad to get to my fishing spots and longer crank arms provide nice low end torque. I also do a 52÷16×24=78 ratio on my 24 inch race bmx much higher than a normal 44÷16x20=55 ratio that bmx bikes normally have.
Bro, this is youtube, not math class.
Well I switched my frame from 13,65” CS to 12,9” CS then after 2 weeks of riding I got myself 165mm cranks to replace 175mm cranks. Difference was huge, my heels didn’t hung up on pegs and spinning and hoping was easier.
I feel it just a preference. Like cranks around 170mm. That’s only because my legs are long and 170mm just feels more fluid. 160mm feel like my stride is restricted. But I’m sure this is just because I grew up riding longer cranks and that is what my body is used to.
Definitely all about preference. I’ve never even tried to ride anything but 175. Haha
Well i have one piece cranks and i don't know the length of them.but i personally believe that 1 piece cranks are not that bad because
1:they are cheaper
2: they dont bend easily
3:they dont break
Yes i know i might be wrong but i have done drop 8 staircase and they handled it not once but 7 times (thats when it started raining)
One-piece cranks are perfectly fine, though they tend to be heavier than 3-piece cranks, because they are made of a single piece of solid steel rather than steel tubing or aluminum.
Im not a weight weenie but I'd love to try some 165's out. Not enough to buy a new set tho, I'm sticking with my 175s. I've been playing around with different sprocket sizes and its much cheaper and easier to swap. I'd like to see a video about sprockets form you.
Wassup bud. I perfer 170, to 175. 180s were to long for me but they were on my friends racing bike and I could see why he used them. Just personal preference. They were 180 flight cranks which were super solid feeling also.
Yea man totally understandable. All about personal preference there
My stock ones are 160, feel fine! Would be concerned about hitting back foot on peg if i got bigger though!
Perfect!
I run 175mm on a 13.2" chainstay and 34mm ø pegs. Never caught my foot because that's the set up I'm used to. It's all about what you're used to riding. I've found the pegs have saved me a few times because there's a 98mm gap between the pedal and peg, that's just under 4". On the odd rough landing my foot has landed on the peg and pedal which gave me enough of a platform to maintain control and not die.
You can use shorter cranks to help prevent your heels hitting the back pegs
Yes absolutely!
or the front wheel...
@@olderthangoogle214 yea I have that problem when I try barspins
im on a 12.5 cs frame and i will change my cranks from 150mm to 170mm im only using 2 pegs i hope my foot dont get caught in the back pegs.I still need a spindle to use the cranks
How tall are you? What size frame is your soundwave? What length cranks do you run? Thanks!!
I’m 5 10 and have a 21” frame with 175mm cranks
165 feels better for spinning but unstable feeling in the bowl. but i ride 175 since my frame is huge anyway haha
Makes sense man. Haha I think I’ll always run 175 too
I've always ridden 175 because I'm 6'4 , they feel like 165mm being a big guy
Many good points. Thoroughly explained. And thought out for production. Well done
I’m my instance, I got 175 size cranks but my feet are fairly big so sometimes I hit the back peg. So I guess I gotta size down
I Road 175s for over 11 years I switched to 170 I love it and I switched my sprockets are used to ride the 25 tooth now I write a 28 tooth I’m never going back
Right on man! I haven't noticed much of a different in having 170 vs 175 which I had for years and years, but the difference between 25 and 28 is night and day for sure!
thank you for the info, this does make sense!! I have a diamond back w/ an American made bottom bracket at any rate the opening is some what larger than these current bmx bikes now a days... I think I'm gonna upgrade to a 170 mm three piece!
Heck yea I’m happy to hear that it helped you man!!
175 feels good. But with a knee problem I'm considering shorter. However, it can only get just so short before it feels like a clown bike. I understand why some guys go to 160, for example. But that further takes away from the bike just riding like a bike. An ethos I've always held. I don't want bars in my lap, I only want the seat down when I need it down, and I don't want child size cranks. The bike has to be a bike first, otherwise it's just a specialized piece of sports equipment.
Yea I’d agree in all those points.
A BMX bike is a pretty specialized piece of sports equipment though.
Lol, I guess it is, but it's also just a jump on it and go cruiser. The bikes have gotten smaller over the years. But there is no question it works, just look what people are doing. As long as I have a quick release seatpost clamp I can deal.
Haha not denying any of that either!
I have thought so many times about putting one of those on my bike!!! Haha
That’s so awesome.
When i raced i run 180mm cranks.On my street bike sins new frame back ends are getting shorter and if you got BIG feet you need shorter cranks so your heals don't clip the back pegs when your riding along.I use 165mm cranks on my street bike \m/
Thanks for putting this together. After some research, I think it’s something that I’ll adapt too pretty quick if any changes are made. I tend to go for cranks a tad on the longer side. I commute with my bike a lot, along with beginner tricks for now on the street. I live in the city so it’s a lot of stop and go or slowing down, changing direction and stuff. So the ease of low speed pedaling helps.
Always happy to help! Sounds like you've got it pretty well figured out.
Hope to see you in the comments again, thanks for being here!
@Brant_Moore farrrr from figuring it out 😂 getting closer to it with your tips and info tho. 👍🏼
It really only seems to make a noticeable difference in the extremes. A 5mm difference would probably be a very quick transition
Also, that’s really awesome to hear! Glad I can help!!!
Here's what I've always thought. Let's say u have 44x16 gearing. With 180mm cranks u get an advantage off the line but I can't spin those very fast. On the other hand with 165mm cranks u have less leverage taking off but u can spin them way faster and for the same gearing reach higher top speeds. On a single gear bike I prefer short cranks. And a bike with gears and really long rides a slower consistent circle works best. Also the lack of torque with shorter cranks could be made up for by muscle strength. Thoughts ?@brant_moore
What a great vid. Solid info on a technical topic and the unique case by case rider by rider details. Thank you.
So which makes it easier to manual? Because you disproved all theories I had but also disproved the opposite of those theories as well it was like I was wrong both way when I thought about it so do you think shorter is better for manuals and a short rear end?
I dont know for sure if crank length has an effect on manualling but if it does what would be logical in my mind is longer cranks giving your more control. When it comes to frames, short rear ends mean they're more twitchy and easier to loop out. Long rear ends mean they're more controlled but harder to get balanced.
If you're just starting to learn manuals, a normal length rear end might help out, but in all honesty its so easy for us to get used to different setups I think that anything in the middle of the spectrum wont give much a of a noticeable affect after an hour of riding.
People can adapt and learn on just about anything if they really want to learn something.
Its probably not until you get into switching from a super short rear end frame to a super long rear end frame or vice versa that the effects might be longer lasting.
animal akimbo,odyssey thunderbolts and profile racing, dopest cranks in the game! spot on with the tutorial brotha no doubt. salute
So basically I can go from 170mm cranks to 165mm cranks thanks appreciate the research you’ve done my good sir
Yes you should be able to without much problem or too much time needed to adjust.
Hopefully it helps you out enough to earn your subscription! Thanks for watching
I got a short crank, definitely affects my wife’s enjoyment of the ride😅
What about manuals?? are shorter cranks better for manuals? I ride 170mm with 13.65cs frame. Now that I already have a 12.75cs frame I have a plan on buying 155mm cranks.
For a 24 inch bmx whats better recommended 180mm or 175mm in cranks?
175mm crank with 28t sprocket. Best duo
What size frame you got for that crank and sprocket combo my guy
Crank arms is determine for the rider. But what I’m also wondering is that if it determines the size rims and tires you have determines on your sprockets you might use. Smaller the rim, bigger the sprocket. Bigger the rim, smaller the sprocket. I was also wondering if smaller sprockets with 170mm crank arms make it easier to do wheelies cause of the crank arm for torque.
There’s definitely something to that because pedaling a 26” DJ with a 28/9 gear ratio and 175mm cranks is much easier than pedaling a BMX bike with the same
For me it has to be 175mm. I can feel the shorter stance of 165mm and even 170mm in my foot placement.
That’s an interesting thought. Foot placement can probably account for at least some of the stance differences in crank length but that wouldn’t change and if the pedaling differences. An interesting take on it for sure
@@Brant_Moore the way I see it, our discipline, freestyle-bmx, has less pedalling than most other cycling disciplines but relies heavily on the entire body for control. Comfortable and consistent foot placement strikes me as a crucial part of that control and helps with landing in awkward places.
My preference probably stems from the fact 175mm is the industry standard so my muscle memory is based on that. I've ridden 175mm so long that my stance naturally spaces to fit it.
I have 4 pegs and the fit indent 24 in 170mm. Do you think going from 170 to 160 would be a big difference? I ride street mainly and a little park and stuff
I think it could be a little noticeable at first but then once you’re used to it, it probably won’t feel much different
@Brant_Moore thank you man I appreciate the info
Going from 175mm to 165mm fucked up my Luc-E grinds completely
It seriously gets deeper every time I look into it.
Didn’t even think about how it could affect different grinds
I Have A 26" Beach Cruiser Lowered , And The Pedals Scrape , Could I Use A 20" Crank ?
So I have a wack stance, I’m left food forward, right hand throw, and my right side is my dominant side hop. I also have some large feet and my pegs are on my right side, so my foot often clips my peg if I want to do manuals or just have a normal stance. Should I get shorter cranks to account for my weirdness?
It could have an affect and stop your foot from clipping. Maybe worth trying to ride someone’s bike who has shorter pegs
@Brant_Moore I ride some really tiny odyssey pegs, and the heel of my foot will sometimes hit if I ride in my comfortable stance, so I have to move my right foot forward in order to manual
yes shorter cranks will help a lot with this if you have big feet, it has nothing to do with pegs.
Hey bro nice video but I'm just getting back into street riding. I haven't purchased a bike yet $300 is my limit I've been researching the 2013 Khe Evo 0.1 or 0.3 they're full chromoly frame forks and bars. Is that A good start for me? I've compared every other bike at this range and nothing compares to the 0.3.
Full chromoly everything is your main concern for longevity on the bike. Sealed hubs and double walled rims are also huge, so if it has all of that you really can’t beat it without buying a top of the line complete. Sounds like you’ve done your research!
Thanks for watching the video man! Hope it’s enough to earn your subscription
Bro I def. Subscribed ever since I found your video on Frame Geometry! I can't Thank You Enough for your help! I'll def. Be telling ppl bout you.
That’s so awesome to hear, thank you so much!! Hope that bike is great when you get it
Yet an other thing, there is an issue of hitting your heel when pedalling on the rear pegs if you have em longer. Solution : shorter cranks)
That's a great point too
Right. I've bought a new frame with shorter chainstays and the first ride I had to move my feet forward on the pedals to not hit the pegs when pedaling. Considering shorter crank arms now tho I like them long for leverage.
@@styleparade I’ve installed 160) got to be much better, though sometimes I still hit the pegs, rarely but happens)
I’m 6’2 and growing fast (I’m 14) and I’m looking at some cranks. What size would you recommend? I also ride with pegs and 9.8 Bars.
Cranks are dependent on what you like to do really. What kinds of tricks do you like to do or want to do?
@Brant_Moore I ride lots of street, and rarely trail or dirt. I ride park lots too. I do a lot of spin tricks and I’m learning bars and such
165
Boss video 👍 175mm for me
Newer frames have short chain stays (13.5") so 175mm will be too long and your heels will hit the rear pegs. My older frame has 15" chain stays, and 175mm cranks fit fine in the heel department. But for a modern freestyle frame, 160mm or 165mm is the way to go, so your heels don't hit the rear pegs. Now I have two bikes, one old and one new.
I'mma buy cranks, Primo Powerbites are said to be indestructible.... Eclat Tibia with 170 or 165mm may fit my style, but are hard to get, damn!
btw. Does length of cranks has something to do with Crankflips?
Hmmm, i hadnt thought about crankflips in relation to crank length. I feel like when compared or measured it would probably be a negligible difference on anything other than the extreme ends of the spectrum
I got bmx with 21”TT , how if i put 160mm crank, that gonna be alright?? Bcoz height 163cm
Im from Indonesia. Thanks…
What should I get for my 29 inch se bike
I did some math to calculate torque at the rear wheel with 250 pounds of force applied to the crank with different sprockets and crank arm lengths.
165mm 28t:43.5423
170mm 28t:44.8821
175mm 28t:46.2218
165mm 27t:45.1388
170mm 27t:46.5277
175mm 27t:47.9166
165mm 27t:47.0196
170mm 26t:48.4664
175mm 26t:49.9131
165mm 25t:48.8868
170mm 25t:50.3910
175mm 25t:51.8953
I have a 29 in bmx bike and the stock cranks are 175 mm is it ok if I get a 170 mm crank to use? I feel like it wont have a big difference but I’m not sure I’m just making sure I have a big flyer se bike
You likely won't feel a huge difference, but it is possible. You will 100% get used to any difference you feel though
Hey Brant, what cranks are on your bike in the thumbnail?
These are odyssey thunderbolts in 175!
@@Brant_Moore thanks for the fast response, you're a real legend!
Hey thank you for the kind words!! That makes you a legend!
An absolutely superb explanation. Thank you 👍
Happy to help man!! Thanks for being here!
I used to ride the 175 cranks and 25 tooth sprocket now I ride 170 cranks and 28 tooth sprocket for me it's just feels much better to ride
Does it matter with barspins specifically? Cool idea for a video
I think it's possible that it could have an affect, but I also think that affect on a 5mm change would be so small that its negligible. Maybe if going from like 180 to 160, but other than that I don't know that any difference would be noticeable
This is worth watching 👍
Thank you!!
Are cranks as complicated as I think is there only a couple kinda I can buy? Do they all fit?
The only thing you need to worry about when buying cranks is having the right bottom bracket
Hey the first tip with the leverage said it all thank you so much
Awesome, so good to hear that the video helped you out!!!
Hope to see you in the comments in the future!
Hey man! if u still see old vids' comments
I have my old bmx i think its 20.5 but has a longer chainstay ( more like a dirt frame, the front end is not steep either)
-i have 175mm cranks and i need to get new ones cuz they are almost broken and stuff
Im thinking on getting 160 bcz i myself am 5.7 tall, and i see from comments and vids that they help with tricks , help with knees a bit
I want to ride mostly dirt and transitions/halfpipe (think 180s for fun there). Should i try the 160s and see or do u have any opinions u found since u made this vid ;D ?
I’d say if you know someone who has 160 cranks on their bike I would ride it and try to focus on how the cranks themselves feel.
If you don’t have the option now, I feel like most things in bmx can be gotten used to. So if you got the shorter cranks you’d likely get used to them regardless
@Brant_Moore Appreciate it ;D it's so fun getting back into bmx man, you and ur vids are wholesome and fun 🌴
Very detailed explanation thanks, I have a 165mm set up an have to keep my feet perfectly placed to avoid my heel from locking up on the rear peg ,thinking about making a switch to 160mm hopefully it helps..
Boom there you go! Sounds like you have an idea of what could help! Short of getting a frame with a longer rear end or adding extra links to your chain to pull the wheel back further, shorter cranks are about all you can do for that.
m Chandler that happens to everyone I am pretty sure, I am 5ft 10 with 170mm and I am always pretty close
Hey bro, I’m looking at buying some cranks but really don’t know what size to run. I’m 5’10 and I have 170mm atm. I’m into lots of street riding so I do spins manuals etc. Would 165mm be suitable?
I dont think youll notice a massive difference so it could be worth a try. Could go either way though
@@Brant_Moore cheers man
Just had a go on my friends bike with 165mm
Honestly feels the same
I was clocked by a friend and her car said I was going over 42 mph,I had 180 crank arms with 44 tooth sprockhet,those were the days fast as hell blastin through town on my redline,it weighed 7 or 8 lbs toatal,
lol
Ran animal akimbo’s 175 for last eight years, finally died this week, got some smaller BSD cranks in 165.
How are they feeling being 10mm shorter? Or have you gotten them yet?
@Brant_Moore for normal cycling it’s like it’s less torque but less effort to get to top speed. I thought they would be really uncomfortable for me as I have size 12 feet, however I have loved them for actual cycling, less effort to get to full speed. It feels like going down a tooth on a sprocket but without feeling to light. For actual bmx it feels better too bunnyhop feels better and feel just general improvement would of preferred 170mm but 165 is great
You gained a new follower mate thanks for the tips !
Hey thank you!! Always happy to help!
I recommend the Sheldon Brown gain ratio calculator to come up your ideal combo. www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html It does take into account crank length. I prefer builds around a 4.4 ratio which is the same as a 24" bmx cruiser.
That sounds like a great way to do it if someone is super into the details of it all, thank you!!
Very good and clear explanation and analysis! Good job!
Im 5'8 height, I'm 16, and I want to build a bmx bike and I got 20.75 tt what mm of crank I will use please reply and notice me
I would start with 170 or 175 until you start to learn the basics of riding and figure out what types of tricks you might want to learn.
Thanks for watching! Subscribe if you haven’t:)
@@Brant_Moore thank you awesome i hope you do giveaway lol :)
Best crank length breakdown for bmx. Human element is not a factor, it is THE factor. The human individual is a factor compromised of so many individual x factors that have variables within each variable. If we were all in a world where we were crash test dummies or production line petry dish standard persons we could count on a standardized test to let us know how one engineered piece of hardware was better than the others without question. The bike that works best for you is the bike you ride the most or the bike you like the best. If you like a bike so much and you believe its the best you wont be satisfied with the performance of any others you dont make perform to the mental standard you have of another bike. If you are riding what you believe is the best you will atleast place the fault or limitations on yourself and try that failed or unpolished trick in the need more practice catagory. In summary if you buy what you believe is the best than you will not be plagued with doubt and you can take ownership of all your efforts. That is how i see it.
Absolutely man, thank you!
Great videos, nice work Brant!
Thanks so much! And thank you for subscribing!
Really helpful thank you 🙏🏻
Happy to help!!! Glad to hear it helped you
That jump test was hilarious.
7:48
You mean longer cranks?
Legend has it his legs were asleep for a whole day after kneeling for 16:09 minutes straight
Hahaha dude...I don’t miss those days of filming like that
I have 175mm and i touch the front tire with my foot when doing a xup i am in the exact middle with my foot
Thats why im getting 160mm cranks
Great video, good info...
Thanks 👍🏻💯
Always happy to help! Hopefully it did help and enough to earn your subscription!
Yes... very useful info on the subject and it did helped to get my subscription ✔🚲
I guess this explains why many that race goes with the 180mm cranks! Thx so much
Correct!! Thank you for being here to watch!
@Brant_Moore Thx for the information
@Brant_Moore What do you recommend for tire pressure for BMX racing? Thx
I don’t know much about racing so I can’t really say, I’m sorry
@Brant_Moore Oh that’s ok! Thx
Very interesting topic, ;) Nice thanks bro´
Thank you for watching!!!
Great tips n advice bro 🤙
Thank you man!! I did my best on this one. Even made it twice to make sure it was right
I love the jacket I'm a huge nowear fan
Nowear rules!
The theory about how high you can jump with your feet closer/further apart is honestly so overrated for several reasons. first of all the difference is only about 10-20mm going from "long cranks" to "short cranks" so try jumping with your feet exactly together and then moving them only 10-20mm apart, there will be no difference. Secondly it's not the same thing or the same motion etc. to do a stationary jump as it is to bunnyhop a BMX bike so it's not even a comparable test,
Haha hey man don’t shoot the messenger! It’s all subjective!
SUPER well explained :)
Thank you! I hope it was enough to earn your subscription!
Awesome explain bro....