Having never set a ring and pinion gear, I was looking for a good tutorial. I just purchased an ARB air locker for a Dana 35 and your video was a great starting point for my education. As a retired Toolmaker, I feel confident that I can accomplish a good setup which will last for years. Bring on the fun and get me a BFH!!!! Thank you!
The most comprehensive video on air lockers on RUclips, I had been looking for months for this information and especially the setting up of the backlash and preload etc. Thank you for taking the time to make this tutorial and sharing your obviously vast experience and knowledge with us, you have earnt my subscription and respect.
@@TheBFHGarage Did you install shims behind the race because at the time of this video you didn't have a clamshell puller or you did it this way knowing most would not have a clam shell? I would really rather install shims on the pinion like my D44 I did as it made it pretty nice with the clam shell.
@@ChrisLawley43 I installed shims behind the race because that's what came with my install kit. At the time my preference would have been for it to be the same anyway as I didn't have the clamshell puller. But the install kit was the main factor. If you plan and installing behind the pinion bearing then make sure your master install kit comes with those shims because most don't.
This has got to be ,by far, the best video I've found on setting up gears in a diff. Aside from the helpful instruct for the locker. I just finished building a 3rd for a Toyota with ARB airlocker and 4.88's and was looking for something on routing the air line, then found this. I only wish I found it before I built the diff. All the other videos on setting up gears are made with the assumption that you'll be using the same housing and can base pinion depth from existing setup, but starting with an empty 3rd and new gears, finding pinion depth is tricky without the ridiculously expensive pinion depth tool. This is very helpful stuff. Very well done. Thank you for your contribution
I wanted to say thanks for making videos this detailed without a bunch of sponsor BS or "this is better than that". I'll be doing this same install this weekend and your video is a huge help!
Great tips, the setup nut and race is a trick I've seen the OGs use, even they take 8 hours adjusting. Want to see someone in the comments whose successfully installed and ARB the first time around.
Vary Educational session. Although, i had a shop just did all my regeared +add ARB locker, I'll watch your channel to gain insight how it done. Thanks for putting our this stream. Lot's of valuable info.🙏💯❤
I recently got my hands on a HP D30 for my LJ and this video will be playing on the iP ad while I follow along step by step when I set it up. Thanks for such an informative and instructional video!
i have a gen5 ranger with an open m190 on the front, that I want an ARB locker in... i'll probably never do it myself, but after watching this start to finish, i feel like I probably could. Phenomenal!
Thank you for this video. You’re a great instructor. I learned so much about air lockers. I’ve also come to the decision to not attempt this myself haha. Paying someone to do this is definitely worth it in my case. You’re saving me time and money.
Thanks for the video. Exactly what I needed. Its been twenty years since I’ve done a gear change. I am finally getting the chance to fix up my 92 YJ. Looking forward to checking out all your vids.
What a great video! Thanks to Mike's very well done presentation--he is an excellent communicator--I have not only learned learned more about air lockers, but also about finer points of differentials and how a master craftsman gets to work. Inspiring. Thank you Mike!
Thank you for this video! Been contemplating air lockers for my gladiator, and naturally I’ve been considering doing the work myself. This is very informative and helpful!
Getting ready to do my install this month. Wouldn’t have the confidence I have without this video. Excellent communication. I’ve watched others videos and your approach is very effective at teaching how to do this. Best regards
I had arb locker’s professionally installed on my ram 3500 and I just got a quote of 800 dollars to fix the “ bad batch of seals” that arb used in their lockers. This is the 3rd time‼first 2 times were under warranty
There is no way it should cost $800 to replace the O rings. Are you 100% sure it's the O rings? I would check everything before just replacing something. Especially if they are doing it for the "third time". My guess is something else.
You sir are a great instructor. Awedome video. i do wish you could have shown how to have installed the copper line in that coupler (i forget the name)
If I'm working on an axle by myself, I usually stuff an old pillow inside the housing. Use 1 or 2 extra large zip ties or zip some smaller ones together to hold the pillow in place. That will stop the pinion from falling out onto the floor and possibly getting damaged.
Watching this video for the fourth or fifth time, it is the definitive Dana 30 regear video. Especially if you are fitting an ARB. Great job Mike. I do have a couple of questions. 1. For an ARB locker install (where shims go on after the bearings pressed on to the locker) am I right that the only 'set up' parts are the race for the inner pinion bearing and a set up nut? 2. For the 'set up' nut is there a reason not to just use a standard nut with the correct thread, rather than filing down the threads on a stover style nut? 3. How do you decide on the initial shim stacks on each side of the carrier? I get moving shims from one side to the other to adjust backlash, but not clear to me how to decide how much shim in the first instance. Thanks in advance.
1. Correct 2. You can use a regular nut. 3. Determining shims for each side is mostly a guess on a starting point. I always add more shims to the right side at first to ensure there is SOME sort of backlash. You don't want to force the carrier in when there isn't any backlash.
@@TheBFHGarage thanks Mike, answers much apprecated. On the initial shims for the carrier, I get the point re the balance of the split, but is the only way to get a start point for the total shims for both sides to pull the bearings off the old carrier and measure those shims. Or do you have a 'rule of thumb' number? If so I think I'll need to get hold of a bearing puller One additional question. I have seen that for HP pinion Dana 30s from XJs up to 1998 there is a baffle that sits on top of the pinion bearing. When I pull the old pinion out of the HP Dana 30 I am swapping in, if there is one of those baffles there do you recommend fitting a new one?
@@eversleyowl the starting point will be what it will be, not a specific number. Some housings have thick master shims outside of the bearings and others have them under the bearings. The key is to have enough pre-load so you can't pull it out by hand. Now when adding an ARB, it changes things slightly because the seal housing has an ARB master shim that mates with it. You put shims between the seal housing and the master shim to dial it in. You will most likely still need to add shims to the outside of the seal housing as well depending on how many shims are needed to achieve pre-load. So find a combination that allows for pre-load as well as adjustment.
@@eversleyowl as far as the "baffle", it's actually a thrust washer. If the original one isn't bent, you can reuse it. Most install kits include a new one.
@@TheBFHGarage that's great, again thanks for taking the time to explain. I can't see one in the Revolution Master Install Kit I have, but yet to open up everything iside the box so may be there. So if there is one in the differential when I disassmble I will look to install one when I regear. Thanks.
Maybe in stock form. The slinger is a shim more than anything. If you think you need a "slinger" in there, I encourage you to imagine the axle being on a bench with the diff cover off and spinning at 100 rpms. You would have gear oil dripping off the ceiling. As far as a baffle, high pinions usually do have them but I have seen some that don't. Plus not all master install kits provide them. I've never had one come back from lack of pinion lubrication.
What an amazing video .. ! Great work! Thank you for sharing your work and experience with us - Quick questions: 1. Did you add a crash shelve in the pinion assembly? I was under the impression that we should add one and then ''crush'' it as we tight the pinion to spec 2. Is there a starting point of ''total'' rings that you add left and right initially? Is there a spec there or goes by our feeling of the backlash? Thanks again!
Some axles use a crush sleeve and some use shims. Use what your axle is supposed to have. The "rings" you are referring to are called shims. I usually try to start with what was in there and adjust as needed
Thank you so much. Before this video I was thinking I can wing it. Toward the beginning I was thinking I need to hire this guy to do it for me. By the end of the video I know I can do this and I am looking forward to it. Knowing what I am doing will make it fun. I am going to buy a used one someone is selling because it leaks and he doesn't know why. My guess is he didn't watch this video before his initial instal. He replaced the ARB with a Grizzly. Do you think it's a good idea to buy a used ARB cheap that leaks? Maybe some pointers on what I should be looking for?
Those are some of the best ones to buy because you can get them cheap. Things to look for: Make sure it isn't an older three piece design (look it up so you know). Make sure the seal housing isn't leaking...hold your finger over the hole between the two O rings and then blow into the copper line-NO air should be escaping. Make sure it comes with the bearings and races or you'll be buying new ones. Make sure it comes with the ARB master shims (one for each side). Get the solenoid, switch, and wiring with it. If you can get the bulkhead fitting with it, bonus. If not, you'll be buying one. If the seal housing does leak, a new one runs around $100 so figure that into the overall price. I would also order replacement O rings for the seal housing and replace those since you have it out.
Great video! I am considering putting in 3:73 but there’s no way a shop will be as meticulous as you, which is unfortunate. I might give this a try just to check everything is done correctly. I am currently running my 3:07 with spartan lockers. Was curious where’s your shop located? State?
I'm in Colorado. Why go to 3:73? What size tires do you have or want to have? Which motor? Which transmission? Have to take all of those into consideration.
Great vid, if I want to sand down one of those bareing races as a tool to set shims. I. Assume you would order an extra from the same manufacturer as the new bearings/races you are installing?
You'll thank me the first time you use it if you like it. Look into capillary tube cutter. If you have the same looking wire strippers, they work well too. Cut in the v shape Grove and it doesn't smash the tube flat. I'm an hvacr tech, and I'm a tool freak as well.
Love the vid. Getting ready to do my first ever locker install, a Yukon Grizzly in a D50 TTB, but this vid helps a LOT to help me understand the steps AND logic. One question, why no crush sleeve? On disassembly my stock D50 didn’t have a crush, but the Yukon rebuild kit includes one. Do I use it? Thanks!
At all depends on the axle type. For example a low pinion Dana 30 or a Dana 35 will use a crush sleeve, whereas a high pinion Dana 30. Or a dinner 44 uses shims. Use whatever came out of yours
I just want I'm trying to say is how can you set the gap between the pinion ring and the ring gear when you haven't set the new shims on pinion gear, or bearings and races for the pinion. It seems like you would want to get all of that put in place first then set the proper gap and use paint to adjust the tracking
Hi again Mike. You go through a number of specialty tools that you use. I wondered if you also use a pinion yoke puller to get the yoke off when you need to remove and reinstall the pinion during the fitment process? If not, what is your technque for yoke removal / do you find that using the punch to remove it each time is fine?
Question, do you need a press or could you just bake the roller bearings before putting them in the pinion and locker? Maybe also put the pinion and locker in the freezer??
So I had a guy that was doin our gear work on the side , he is "head mechanic " at local 4 wheel parts , I had him do my gears front and rear and rear locker , then later on I decided to do arb in the front so I had him do it , needless to say the gears ended up eating their self up in the front , he didn't shim it right and I asked him to take a pic of the pattern he settled on and send it to me and he couldn't even do that, so I'm positive he didn't run a pattern, but when I told him what happen , he tries tell me it wasn't his fault , so I make him replace ring and pinion and I bought install kit. I'm a pretty good mechanic and was confident I could setup gears , so I tackled the install this time , well after fighting and fighting, I just couldn't figure out what was goin on , then it hit me., I didn't get a install kit for arb , I got regular install kit for open carrier , I was using wrong shims in between seal housing and bearing and everytime I'd put any preload on it it would lock up , It just never dawned on me to read the arb instructions, and learn about the master shims , mainly on the seal housing side , once I figured that out with correct tools ,it was pretty simple , tedious but simple. , I came back to your video to figure out the shims , luckily he used the master shims so I had them , and It took awhile to figure out all the different size shims in kit also. If it wasn't for that, it would had went quick. Thanks for the great video
Excellent video, I feel like I can do this myself after watching this! (and buying like $2000 worth of tools 😆) Indulge me on two questions if you don't mind, 1) when you reinsert the axle shafts into the ARB is there another step? Or do they just lock in there immediately? 2) What would be a reasonable price to expect to pay (labor only) for someone like you who works carefully to be precise to do this work? Just ballpark, thanks! Hope you keep making this great content!
First off, I'm glad the video helped you out and gives you the courage to tackle a job like this. As far as the axle shafts, they slide right into a carrier, or in this case, a locker. Nothing inside the carrier or locker secures them unless you have a C clip style axle such as a Dana 35. On non-C-clip axles, most of the time they are held in place with retainer plate/nuts on the ends of the axle tubes. Talking about labor cost here is pointless. It varys greatly from state to state and region to region. A lot of shops won't let you bring your own parts. Some charge by the hour and some by the job. It's really all over the place. I can say this. If you get a quote and it seems excessively high, shop around for other quotes to compare.
@@TheBFHGarage thanks! I figured that would be your response about cost but thought I'd ask. As far as the c clip axle goes I assume the ARB would provide access to this area of their carrier to reinstall the c-clip if that was the case? Unlike the one in this video that looks pretty solid, no access to reinstall the c-clip that I could see...
Sure. You can place shims behind the pinion head or behind the race. Either works. However, you will be limited by what shims come in your master install kit. Some only come with shims for behind the race and others with shims behind the pinion head.
Lots of information, and although toyota's are completely different your attention to detail is great reference information. I may have missed it, but why would you loop the copper tube over the ring instead of exiting the housing on the other side?
I've seen people do that but it is really difficult to do without kinking the line. Plus there really isn't a whole lot of room there for it to not rub or vibrate on the bearing cap. In addition, with it in the other side of you somehow damage it at the seal housing you still have plenty of copper line left to use.
I’m hoping you can answer my question for me and help me understand what is happening and if I need to do anything about it. I have a high pinion Dana 44 from a bronco it’s getting all new bearings and new ring and pinion with an ARB locker, I’ve got my pinion depth right where I want it however, I can’t seem to get the pattern just right without opening my backlash too far. Yukon gear recommends 6-10 and right now I have it at nine but there’s still a partially a sharp line at the bottom of my pattern, if I close the backlash to 6-8, that sharp line goes across the whole bottom of the pattern and I can’t seem to get rid of that sharp line without just going way past spec on backlash.
Always get the BL in spec. If you get that harsh line at the bottom, then your pinion depth isn't where you think you want it. If it's that close, try pulling 3 thou, reset BL and run another pattern.
Hi! I have a ARB air locker on my rear differential. I haven’t connected the ARB air compressor to the air locker yet. This as led to a leak out of the bulkhead where the air line from the air compressor will connect. I am about to install the air compressor to the air locker and I am wondering if I can just proceed or I have to deal with the leak first. If I do have to deal with the leak, what should I do? Thank you
It is common for gear oil to go back up the copper line. Not a biggie. Hook up your compressor and you should be good to go. I would make sure the axle vent tube (rubber hose on top of axle) isn't clogged as well as that can create internal pressure leading to gear oil leaks. In addition, on an annual or every couple of years, disconnect the airline at the bulkhead fitting and then run the compressor to blow out any gear oil that has been building up. I've had it back all the way up to the solenoid so don't be surprised.
It makes installing the carrier much easier. When you roll the carrier and seal housing in, you can move the copper easier. If it's short, it is very rigid and difficult to get in without bending it or damaging it. I also keep the bigger loop there in case the bulkhead gets damaged somehow and you need a little bit extra line to make it good again.
Thanks for the video! I'm looking at putting in a RD117 in the rear of 2017 JKU Sahara. I'm going to use my stock gears, do I need to remove my pinion? Also do I need to grind in the lower oil grooves?
If it gets damaged at the seal housing for whatever reason or if you need to relocate it when doing a truss then you have enough to move it. Most importantly it's easier to bend when installing.
Hi, thanks for best video I saw.I have not excellent english so I am asking maybye what you mentioned in video. Is it nacessary to adjust pinion deepth,backlash and ringgear preload If I only change the diff carrier ( airlock or lsd or another varilock rebuild),with all original shims and gears setup ? It give me sense that When I regear it I need adjust all those things, but only when I carrier change,I would check only marks with yellow paint on ring gear if is ok.If not than buy set of shims and adjust carrier right or left.
You shouldn't have to change anything if only changing the carrier. However, there is a chance you might. Take a pattern BEFORE taking everything out, and then take a pattern AFTER you put it back together. If it's the same or even really close, then you should be good. Good luck!
Just curious, why have so much copper line in the housing. I would think the less copper inside the differential housing the less chance of the tubing getting caught on a gear.
I like to keep extra line just in case. It's rigid, so if it's out of the way, then it's out of the way. You have to take time to make sure it clears everything.
Is it worth re-gearing and installing ARB lockers on a dana 30? I am struggling to decide between buying a new dana 44 vs using my existing dana 30 axle. I know a dana 44 is stronger, but how much stronger?
You can run it however you want. I've seen them poke straight out the side but that is not my preference for two reasons. First, installation that way is a pain in the butt because you have no line to work with....meaning that a longer line is more flexible to get it into tight places. Secondly and more importantly, is that under harsh loads the axle housing will flex and deflect some. By having the longer line it allows for this movement and the line acts like a spring rather than a rigid connection. A rigid connection would lead to premature failure/fatigue imho.
@@TheBFHGarage I was referring to the final bearing race you put in there for completion - does that come with the locker or do you need to source this?
@@TheBFHGarage Okay, thank you. ARB don't mention install kits. In fact, they say everything you need comes in the box for the locker. I'm in the UK and finding it hard to get the info. Appreciate your help and your awesome videos.
Dear sir I've been watching the videos on the diff work you do and impressed is there a way to ask you question about Dana44....my spider gearsin my lsd jeep...are chopped andIwanna get a locker from yukon and get them things. Outta there do you have a email address or something
Why did you remove the pinion? Surely the ARB centre can be installed just by removing old differential centre and ring gear? If you're re-using the same r&p, you don't need to re-shim it for pinion depth, just for backlash and carrier-bearing pre-load.
Great video Mike. I am ready to make the upgrades to my stock toyota 2015 tacoma. my problem is that I am not this savy. Where are you and do you do this for customers?
Insanely helpful vid! Do you need to worty about tooth pattern in compound as much if you’re just reusing your same ring n pinion on a new arb? (Front dana 30 zj)
If all you're doing is changing over your ring gear to the ARB, you should be able to just put it right back in there. I would check backlash and pattern before you pull it though and compare to when you put it back in.
Sorry I was distracted when I replied. When you are installing an ARB, you shouldn't have to reset the pinion. You will just have to make your backlash correct. And that will still take some time because you're going to have to mess around with a seal housing and all of that. So that part will be different. But you should not have to mess with the pinion gear.
Had mine installed last year on my tacoma. Its leaking air out of a release valve on the other side of where the supply line is going in. I didn't see that valve in your video though, any ideas?
Hi, thank you this vid. I found a hp Dana 30 that I need to re-gear to 373. Do I need to order different gear set than I would a normal front axle? I’ve heard some say reverse cut? Any insight would be great
Hello Mike. I just installed my arb air locker and when I assembled them I tested the locker. The locker works but every time I turned them on and when my wheel does half turn I can hear a pop or clunk after that it disappeared. It seems only happens when I turned on the lockers, any idea? Thank you and more power to you.
If everything is operating correctly then it may just need to break in. The other thing I would check if you're hearing a clunk is your driveshaft and axle shaft u-joints.
@@TheBFHGarage cool. I'll sure to break it in and as the arb said to change oil after 1500 miles. My drive shaft and U joints are good and always have Grease in it and yes locker works 👌🏾. I appreciate your time. Thanks.
@@Bignaz_overland fyi the clunk you hear may just be the locker engaging. If the splines aren't lined up exactly when you activate it, then it will once they do. Same thing for unlocking. If the axle shaft is in a bind, which often happens in Moab, then it will not unlock until it comes out of bind. Perfectly normal.
really great content, thank's a lot! Just a question: If I just keep the stock pinion and put in a locker - do I then even need to remove the pinion? Just in case the bearings are still fine ofc.
If all you are doing is swapping in a locker and NOT changing gears, then theoretically it's a direct swap. I would highly recommend checking backlash and run a pattern prior to taking things apart. Most likely you will have to adjust carrier bearing shims as they can be different. For example, the ARB uses different bearings. Since you aren't changing the pinion, you should only have to get backlash back to where it was which is probably easier said than done.
No. The compressor only runs long enough to engage the locker...maybe a second or two. Then it will kick on every so often for a second just to maintain pressure.
Great Video. What if i was wanting to install that same locker but wanted to reuse my same gears. Would it be possible that the same shims will be needed? Or at least would the pinion stay the same?
If you are only changing the carrier to a locker, you should be able to reuse the gears. You shouldn't have to change anything with pinion depth. The difficult part is getting the same backlash and gear pattern. I would recommend checking and noting the current backlash. Then run a pattern before taking anything apart. Take pictures. Then set the same backlash and make sure the pattern matches too. The reason for this is that gears get work hardened when you break them in when new. This is a difficult thing to do, but doable.
@@TheBFHGarage @The BFH Garage I really liked and appreciate the video, it answered a lot of questions that I have about putting in an air locker. I noticed that your old differential just fell out on you, and you said that was a bad sign. I had my axles regeared (at a specialty drivetrain shop) about 9mo ago, and had a failure of a spider gear which I noticed while trying to fix a front axle seal leak. The differential practically jumped out into my hands when I pulled it out .. I take it that's bad. It's of little consequence at this point, since I'm changing out the guts of that diff anyway, but it makes me suspect that my rear diff may have a similar issue. :-( Planning to self-install an ARB in the back later this year, so I'll have a chance to investigate at that point. As with the poster who originally asked, I'm hoping to be able to leave the pinion alone. I suspect that I won't be able to tell whether the bearing preload is right now that the bearings are a bit worn-in and fully lubricated, do you think it's worth trying to measure that before I go down the installation / setting backlash path? After matching backlash, I assume I should still go ahead and check the tooth contact pattern?
@@ivymike1031 ok, a lot to your post. First, that was a stock axle, the carrier falling out can be normal as the entire system is broken in and worn at that point. When installing new stuff, we want the preload to be tight at the axle housing will flex under load. Lockers need to be tight. As far as my changing anything with the pinion, it can be done if you're using the same gears but it needs extra attention to get it right. If you are using new gears, all bets are off.
Thank you! Awesome Video!! I just broke my tj rear axle so am planning on upgrading to super 35 from revolution gears and axle. Currently my arb Locker is RD102 which is for 27spline. So I called arb to figure out how to upgrade to splice 30. they told me to get part # 728j031c. Do you think it works with RD 102? I have been watching this video more than 10 times to solve my problem. Thank you in advance!
When you use the dummy race to do the pinion setup, instead of "machining" off some of the material from the outside with a Dremel or whatever, why not just cut it with a single vertical slice? Much easier! That will allow it to be pushed in fairly easily, as it can close up slightly when it's squeezed hard. It's only the height of the bearing race that matters for that setup, so that won't change. I do the same cutting with a scrap race to make a tool for tapping or pressing in new races (as it's a perfect fit, but doesn't get stuck).
@@TheBFHGarage No, I understand that. But to reduce the diameter of the dummy race, rather than trying to evenly grind some material off all the way round the circumference, if you make a thin cut all the way through it, it can spring open and closed. At rest, it will remain the same diameter, but it can be squeezed a few thou smaller with reasonable ease. Like your version, it can then be pushed in and out by hand rather than needing to be pressed or tapped with a hammer. And it's easier to do, and it has the benefit that when it's done, the dummy race has still got its pristinely round and shiny outer surface, without the marks, roughness, and flats from the grinding. Give it a try.
Having never set a ring and pinion gear, I was looking for a good tutorial. I just purchased an ARB air locker for a Dana 35 and your video was a great starting point for my education. As a retired Toolmaker, I feel confident that I can accomplish a good setup which will last for years. Bring on the fun and get me a BFH!!!! Thank you!
The most comprehensive video on air lockers on RUclips, I had been looking for months for this information and especially the setting up of the backlash and preload etc.
Thank you for taking the time to make this tutorial and sharing your obviously vast experience and knowledge with us, you have earnt my subscription and respect.
Thank you, I appreciate the comment and subscription!
@@TheBFHGarage Did you install shims behind the race because at the time of this video you didn't have a clamshell puller or you did it this way knowing most would not have a clam shell? I would really rather install shims on the pinion like my D44 I did as it made it pretty nice with the clam shell.
@@ChrisLawley43 I installed shims behind the race because that's what came with my install kit. At the time my preference would have been for it to be the same anyway as I didn't have the clamshell puller. But the install kit was the main factor. If you plan and installing behind the pinion bearing then make sure your master install kit comes with those shims because most don't.
I second that. Great video!
This has got to be ,by far, the best video I've found on setting up gears in a diff. Aside from the helpful instruct for the locker. I just finished building a 3rd for a Toyota with ARB airlocker and 4.88's and was looking for something on routing the air line, then found this. I only wish I found it before I built the diff. All the other videos on setting up gears are made with the assumption that you'll be using the same housing and can base pinion depth from existing setup, but starting with an empty 3rd and new gears, finding pinion depth is tricky without the ridiculously expensive pinion depth tool. This is very helpful stuff. Very well done. Thank you for your contribution
I wanted to say thanks for making videos this detailed without a bunch of sponsor BS or "this is better than that". I'll be doing this same install this weekend and your video is a huge help!
Great tips, the setup nut and race is a trick I've seen the OGs use, even they take 8 hours adjusting. Want to see someone in the comments whose successfully installed and ARB the first time around.
Vary Educational session. Although, i had a shop just did all my regeared +add ARB locker, I'll watch your channel to gain insight how it done. Thanks for putting our this stream. Lot's of valuable info.🙏💯❤
Thank you for posting this. Awesome work. Miss my old TJ.
I recently got my hands on a HP D30 for my LJ and this video will be playing on the iP ad while I follow along step by step when I set it up. Thanks for such an informative and instructional video!
i have a gen5 ranger with an open m190 on the front, that I want an ARB locker in... i'll probably never do it myself, but after watching this start to finish, i feel like I probably could. Phenomenal!
Your videos on diffs for jeeps are the best, you do a great job
Thank you for this video. You’re a great instructor. I learned so much about air lockers. I’ve also come to the decision to not attempt this myself haha. Paying someone to do this is definitely worth it in my case. You’re saving me time and money.
Thanks for the video. Exactly what I needed. Its been twenty years since I’ve done a gear change. I am finally getting the chance to fix up my 92 YJ. Looking forward to checking out all your vids.
Привет! Это лучшее и подробное видео по установке ARB, что я когда либо видел! Спасибо большое!
The best videos on YT are on your channel. Very helpful when you own 97' Grand Cherokee. Greetings from Poland!
Thank you for the kind words! Hope your project goes well!
Great video. Thoroughly demystified proper pinon / ring gear setup.
This has to be one of the best videos I've seen on RUclips. I've learned so much. I wish he could work on my Land Rover
Love the work great advice I would really invest in a deal puller tho would make your life 10x easier
What a great video! Thanks to Mike's very well done presentation--he is an excellent communicator--I have not only learned learned more about air lockers, but also about finer points of differentials and how a master craftsman gets to work. Inspiring. Thank you Mike!
Thank you for the kind words, glad it helped out!
Mate, this was an excellent video, one of the best I've seen.
This is a spectacularly useful video. You have the gift of teaching. Thank you, sir.
This is an amazing instructional video thank you a lot for it!
Excellent video, thank you for all your time and effort to put this together, I have two lockers to fit and am way more confident after watching this.
Answered my question in just over a minute. Thanks!
This video saved me a lot of trouble keep it up mike, fantastic.
Thank you for this video! Been contemplating air lockers for my gladiator, and naturally I’ve been considering doing the work myself. This is very informative and helpful!
I have a Gladiator as well, but the Rubicon model so no need for ARB's... yet.
Nice write up. I can see a shop cutting some corners here and there out of laziness. That's why I like to do things myself as much as I can
Great job Mike. Very well done, I really enjoyed the video. I learned a great deal from this. Thank you for taking the time to create this content.
Thank you! Glad it helped out!
The best detail I have seen.
Exceptional video! Extremely detailed and thorough! So helpful! 🙌🏼🙏🏼
Thank You sir. Gonna be setting up my first Dana 70.
Good luck!
good job.
i live on res, need ARB install. now I will tackle install next..
Awesome detailed video! Thanks for taking the time to make this content. BFH is great channel with how to and wheeling videos!
Getting ready to do my install this month. Wouldn’t have the confidence I have without this video. Excellent communication. I’ve watched others videos and your approach is very effective at teaching how to do this. Best regards
Thanks for the kind words, and good luck!
@@TheBFHGarage I’ll post here how it all goes. I’m doing front and rear lockers with a regear.
Amazing video. Very well spoken. I'll definitely need to pay someone like you to do it. Wish you lived near Portland 😕
I had arb locker’s professionally installed on my ram 3500 and I just got a quote of 800 dollars to fix the “ bad batch of seals” that arb used in their lockers. This is the 3rd time‼first 2 times were under warranty
There is no way it should cost $800 to replace the O rings. Are you 100% sure it's the O rings? I would check everything before just replacing something. Especially if they are doing it for the "third time". My guess is something else.
You sir are a great instructor. Awedome video. i do wish you could have shown how to have installed the copper line in that coupler (i forget the name)
It's called a bulkhead fitting. That would be a good topic for a future video👍
we just use a bearing heater to install bearings. works the same as the ring gear
so exellent detailed explanation. Thank You.
If I'm working on an axle by myself, I usually stuff an old pillow inside the housing. Use 1 or 2 extra large zip ties or zip some smaller ones together to hold the pillow in place. That will stop the pinion from falling out onto the floor and possibly getting damaged.
Thanks so much man this is awesome, I am about to do this exact job on my 98 Cherokee. You rock!!!!
Awesome tutorial, first video of yours I’ve watched and totally won my subscription. Looking forward to watching the rest of your content.
Watching this video for the fourth or fifth time, it is the definitive Dana 30 regear video. Especially if you are fitting an ARB. Great job Mike. I do have a couple of questions.
1. For an ARB locker install (where shims go on after the bearings pressed on to the locker) am I right that the only 'set up' parts are the race for the inner pinion bearing and a set up nut?
2. For the 'set up' nut is there a reason not to just use a standard nut with the correct thread, rather than filing down the threads on a stover style nut?
3. How do you decide on the initial shim stacks on each side of the carrier? I get moving shims from one side to the other to adjust backlash, but not clear to me how to decide how much shim in the first instance.
Thanks in advance.
1. Correct
2. You can use a regular nut.
3. Determining shims for each side is mostly a guess on a starting point. I always add more shims to the right side at first to ensure there is SOME sort of backlash. You don't want to force the carrier in when there isn't any backlash.
@@TheBFHGarage thanks Mike, answers much apprecated. On the initial shims for the carrier, I get the point re the balance of the split, but is the only way to get a start point for the total shims for both sides to pull the bearings off the old carrier and measure those shims. Or do you have a 'rule of thumb' number? If so I think I'll need to get hold of a bearing puller
One additional question. I have seen that for HP pinion Dana 30s from XJs up to 1998 there is a baffle that sits on top of the pinion bearing. When I pull the old pinion out of the HP Dana 30 I am swapping in, if there is one of those baffles there do you recommend fitting a new one?
@@eversleyowl the starting point will be what it will be, not a specific number. Some housings have thick master shims outside of the bearings and others have them under the bearings. The key is to have enough pre-load so you can't pull it out by hand. Now when adding an ARB, it changes things slightly because the seal housing has an ARB master shim that mates with it. You put shims between the seal housing and the master shim to dial it in. You will most likely still need to add shims to the outside of the seal housing as well depending on how many shims are needed to achieve pre-load. So find a combination that allows for pre-load as well as adjustment.
@@eversleyowl as far as the "baffle", it's actually a thrust washer. If the original one isn't bent, you can reuse it. Most install kits include a new one.
@@TheBFHGarage that's great, again thanks for taking the time to explain. I can't see one in the Revolution Master Install Kit I have, but yet to open up everything iside the box so may be there. So if there is one in the differential when I disassmble I will look to install one when I regear. Thanks.
Thank you for sharing! very educative!
pretty good video ,most if not all high pinion diffs use a baffle and a slinger . i did not see those in you're video.
Maybe in stock form. The slinger is a shim more than anything. If you think you need a "slinger" in there, I encourage you to imagine the axle being on a bench with the diff cover off and spinning at 100 rpms. You would have gear oil dripping off the ceiling. As far as a baffle, high pinions usually do have them but I have seen some that don't. Plus not all master install kits provide them. I've never had one come back from lack of pinion lubrication.
Wow, this was a great tutorial. It has however left me thinking, maybe I'll pay for the install haha
damn that';s one hell of a detailed video. Love every second of it. Also, what a best way to discourage a DIY'er. :D :D
Yea, far too many nuances of this install for a DIYer to do this and remain happy by the end of it.
What an amazing video .. ! Great work! Thank you for sharing your work and experience with us - Quick questions:
1. Did you add a crash shelve in the pinion assembly? I was under the impression that we should add one and then ''crush'' it as we tight the pinion to spec
2. Is there a starting point of ''total'' rings that you add left and right initially? Is there a spec there or goes by our feeling of the backlash?
Thanks again!
Some axles use a crush sleeve and some use shims. Use what your axle is supposed to have. The "rings" you are referring to are called shims. I usually try to start with what was in there and adjust as needed
All that business with the shims...somehow I don't think that Skippy The 19 Year Old Apprentice is going to be that diligent.
Very details, Thank you
The best video. ! Do you know if an arb locker can be installed in front wheel drive car , where the diff and gearbox are in one place? Thanks!
Do a search for your vehicle on ARB's website. They list everything they have.
I'd like to see a video of the arb pump installation and hooked to locker.
amazing. Thx for this excellent video.
Thank you so much. Before this video I was thinking I can wing it. Toward the beginning I was thinking I need to hire this guy to do it for me. By the end of the video I know I can do this and I am looking forward to it. Knowing what I am doing will make it fun. I am going to buy a used one someone is selling because it leaks and he doesn't know why. My guess is he didn't watch this video before his initial instal. He replaced the ARB with a Grizzly. Do you think it's a good idea to buy a used ARB cheap that leaks? Maybe some pointers on what I should be looking for?
Those are some of the best ones to buy because you can get them cheap. Things to look for: Make sure it isn't an older three piece design (look it up so you know). Make sure the seal housing isn't leaking...hold your finger over the hole between the two O rings and then blow into the copper line-NO air should be escaping. Make sure it comes with the bearings and races or you'll be buying new ones. Make sure it comes with the ARB master shims (one for each side). Get the solenoid, switch, and wiring with it. If you can get the bulkhead fitting with it, bonus. If not, you'll be buying one. If the seal housing does leak, a new one runs around $100 so figure that into the overall price. I would also order replacement O rings for the seal housing and replace those since you have it out.
Great video sir!
Great video! I am considering putting in 3:73 but there’s no way a shop will be as meticulous as you, which is unfortunate. I might give this a try just to check everything is done correctly. I am currently running my 3:07 with spartan lockers. Was curious where’s your shop located? State?
I'm in Colorado. Why go to 3:73? What size tires do you have or want to have? Which motor? Which transmission? Have to take all of those into consideration.
Great vid, if I want to sand down one of those bareing races as a tool to set shims. I. Assume you would order an extra from the same manufacturer as the new bearings/races you are installing?
Yep👍
Thank You!
You'll thank me the first time you use it if you like it. Look into capillary tube cutter. If you have the same looking wire strippers, they work well too. Cut in the v shape Grove and it doesn't smash the tube flat. I'm an hvacr tech, and I'm a tool freak as well.
Good video. Thanks.
thats an real great video. Thanks so much
Love the vid. Getting ready to do my first ever locker install, a Yukon Grizzly in a D50 TTB, but this vid helps a LOT to help me understand the steps AND logic.
One question, why no crush sleeve? On disassembly my stock D50 didn’t have a crush, but the Yukon rebuild kit includes one. Do I use it? Thanks!
At all depends on the axle type. For example a low pinion Dana 30 or a Dana 35 will use a crush sleeve, whereas a high pinion Dana 30. Or a dinner 44 uses shims. Use whatever came out of yours
I just want I'm trying to say is how can you set the gap between the pinion ring and the ring gear when you haven't set the new shims on pinion gear, or bearings and races for the pinion. It seems like you would want to get all of that put in place first then set the proper gap and use paint to adjust the tracking
Hi again Mike. You go through a number of specialty tools that you use. I wondered if you also use a pinion yoke puller to get the yoke off when you need to remove and reinstall the pinion during the fitment process? If not, what is your technque for yoke removal / do you find that using the punch to remove it each time is fine?
@@eversleyowl the punch is the best and fastest way.
very good video
Question, do you need a press or could you just bake the roller bearings before putting them in the pinion and locker? Maybe also put the pinion and locker in the freezer??
You could do that but a press ensures they are fully seated.
@@TheBFHGarage Thank you for the reply!
So I had a guy that was doin our gear work on the side , he is "head mechanic " at local 4 wheel parts , I had him do my gears front and rear and rear locker , then later on I decided to do arb in the front so I had him do it , needless to say the gears ended up eating their self up in the front , he didn't shim it right and I asked him to take a pic of the pattern he settled on and send it to me and he couldn't even do that, so I'm positive he didn't run a pattern, but when I told him what happen , he tries tell me it wasn't his fault , so I make him replace ring and pinion and I bought install kit. I'm a pretty good mechanic and was confident I could setup gears , so I tackled the install this time , well after fighting and fighting, I just couldn't figure out what was goin on , then it hit me., I didn't get a install kit for arb , I got regular install kit for open carrier , I was using wrong shims in between seal housing and bearing and everytime I'd put any preload on it it would lock up , It just never dawned on me to read the arb instructions, and learn about the master shims , mainly on the seal housing side , once I figured that out with correct tools ,it was pretty simple , tedious but simple. , I came back to your video to figure out the shims , luckily he used the master shims so I had them , and It took awhile to figure out all the different size shims in kit also. If it wasn't for that, it would had went quick. Thanks for the great video
Excellent video, I feel like I can do this myself after watching this! (and buying like $2000 worth of tools 😆) Indulge me on two questions if you don't mind, 1) when you reinsert the axle shafts into the ARB is there another step? Or do they just lock in there immediately? 2) What would be a reasonable price to expect to pay (labor only) for someone like you who works carefully to be precise to do this work? Just ballpark, thanks! Hope you keep making this great content!
First off, I'm glad the video helped you out and gives you the courage to tackle a job like this. As far as the axle shafts, they slide right into a carrier, or in this case, a locker. Nothing inside the carrier or locker secures them unless you have a C clip style axle such as a Dana 35. On non-C-clip axles, most of the time they are held in place with retainer plate/nuts on the ends of the axle tubes.
Talking about labor cost here is pointless. It varys greatly from state to state and region to region. A lot of shops won't let you bring your own parts. Some charge by the hour and some by the job. It's really all over the place. I can say this. If you get a quote and it seems excessively high, shop around for other quotes to compare.
@@TheBFHGarage thanks! I figured that would be your response about cost but thought I'd ask. As far as the c clip axle goes I assume the ARB would provide access to this area of their carrier to reinstall the c-clip if that was the case? Unlike the one in this video that looks pretty solid, no access to reinstall the c-clip that I could see...
I welded the rock armor on the diff with the locker and oil still inside, does it ruin the the locker? Thank you.
Probably not
Can you make set up bearing for the pinion gear to mesure the pinion depth
Sure. You can place shims behind the pinion head or behind the race. Either works. However, you will be limited by what shims come in your master install kit. Some only come with shims for behind the race and others with shims behind the pinion head.
do you have a video on how to remove and refit the axle shafts?
Yes, look at the axle build series.
Lots of information, and although toyota's are completely different your attention to detail is great reference information. I may have missed it, but why would you loop the copper tube over the ring instead of exiting the housing on the other side?
I've seen people do that but it is really difficult to do without kinking the line. Plus there really isn't a whole lot of room there for it to not rub or vibrate on the bearing cap. In addition, with it in the other side of you somehow damage it at the seal housing you still have plenty of copper line left to use.
@@TheBFHGarage I get it. It's counter intuitive with all the moving parts on the other side though.
Yeah but there is "plenty" of room😎
Very helpful
I’m hoping you can answer my question for me and help me understand what is happening and if I need to do anything about it. I have a high pinion Dana 44 from a bronco it’s getting all new bearings and new ring and pinion with an ARB locker, I’ve got my pinion depth right where I want it however, I can’t seem to get the pattern just right without opening my backlash too far. Yukon gear recommends 6-10 and right now I have it at nine but there’s still a partially a sharp line at the bottom of my pattern, if I close the backlash to 6-8, that sharp line goes across the whole bottom of the pattern and I can’t seem to get rid of that sharp line without just going way past spec on backlash.
Always get the BL in spec. If you get that harsh line at the bottom, then your pinion depth isn't where you think you want it. If it's that close, try pulling 3 thou, reset BL and run another pattern.
Great video! What is the estimated time for one axcel?
Depends on if it's your first time or not
@@TheBFHGarage first time.
@@SheriffNicolay depends on your mechanical ability. I would account for a full day, maybe two per axle. The second should go faster than the first.
Hi!
I have a ARB air locker on my rear differential. I haven’t connected the ARB air compressor to the air locker yet. This as led to a leak out of the bulkhead where the air line from the air compressor will connect. I am about to install the air compressor to the air locker and I am wondering if I can just proceed or I have to deal with the leak first. If I do have to deal with the leak, what should I do?
Thank you
It is common for gear oil to go back up the copper line. Not a biggie. Hook up your compressor and you should be good to go. I would make sure the axle vent tube (rubber hose on top of axle) isn't clogged as well as that can create internal pressure leading to gear oil leaks. In addition, on an annual or every couple of years, disconnect the airline at the bulkhead fitting and then run the compressor to blow out any gear oil that has been building up. I've had it back all the way up to the solenoid so don't be surprised.
Thank you for helping.
Your response and your video were helpful. I will do some more research and give it a try.
Great Video! Is there a reason for looping the copper line down before coming out of the housing? Rather than going straight out?
It makes installing the carrier much easier. When you roll the carrier and seal housing in, you can move the copper easier. If it's short, it is very rigid and difficult to get in without bending it or damaging it. I also keep the bigger loop there in case the bulkhead gets damaged somehow and you need a little bit extra line to make it good again.
Do they make these for the Eaton ds402, all I can find is no slip lockers?
I have no idea
Hello Mike, do you have a shop in Denver, CO that I could take to have an air locker installed?
@@ricardoporras4103 email me @ Mike at the bfh garage . c om
Hi thanks nice video, do you know how many threads per inch the 1/4npt tap is?
I believe 18 off the top of my head. 1/4" NPT requires a 7/16" hole.
Thank you
Thanks for the video! I'm looking at putting in a RD117 in the rear of 2017 JKU Sahara. I'm going to use my stock gears, do I need to remove my pinion? Also do I need to grind in the lower oil grooves?
If you are not changing gear ratios, then no. Yes, you will need to grind out the slots for the rear.
Is this basically the same for all trucks. Example- Nissan Frontier 2017 with the 180 front diff?
Correct. Look at install instructions for your needed locker and compare any differences as necessary.
Awesome video! Just one question: why so much extra copper line inside the housing? Why not run it over the top and just out of the hole?
If it gets damaged at the seal housing for whatever reason or if you need to relocate it when doing a truss then you have enough to move it. Most importantly it's easier to bend when installing.
Hi, thanks for best video I saw.I have not excellent english so I am asking maybye what you mentioned in video.
Is it nacessary to adjust pinion deepth,backlash and ringgear preload If I only change the diff carrier ( airlock or lsd or another varilock rebuild),with all original shims and gears setup ?
It give me sense that When I regear it I need adjust all those things, but only when I carrier change,I would check only marks with yellow paint on ring gear if is ok.If not than buy set of shims and adjust carrier right or left.
You shouldn't have to change anything if only changing the carrier. However, there is a chance you might. Take a pattern BEFORE taking everything out, and then take a pattern AFTER you put it back together. If it's the same or even really close, then you should be good. Good luck!
Just curious, why have so much copper line in the housing. I would think the less copper inside the differential housing the less chance of the tubing getting caught on a gear.
I like to keep extra line just in case. It's rigid, so if it's out of the way, then it's out of the way. You have to take time to make sure it clears everything.
Sehr gutes Video, besser geht es nicht👍
Danke Schoen!
Is it worth re-gearing and installing ARB lockers on a dana 30? I am struggling to decide between buying a new dana 44 vs using my existing dana 30 axle. I know a dana 44 is stronger, but how much stronger?
The only difference between a D44 and a D30 is ring gear size. Everything is the same outside the pumpkin.
So why does arb route the line across the diff instead of out the same side of housing the air line goes to seal shim?
You can run it however you want. I've seen them poke straight out the side but that is not my preference for two reasons. First, installation that way is a pain in the butt because you have no line to work with....meaning that a longer line is more flexible to get it into tight places. Secondly and more importantly, is that under harsh loads the axle housing will flex and deflect some. By having the longer line it allows for this movement and the line acts like a spring rather than a rigid connection. A rigid connection would lead to premature failure/fatigue imho.
So does ARB provide you with that pinion bearing race? Or are you buying a replacement OEM one? I'm confused.
If you're referring to the setup race, no that's on you. ARB provides new carrier bearings. Everything else should come in your master install kit
@@TheBFHGarage I was referring to the final bearing race you put in there for completion - does that come with the locker or do you need to source this?
@@00chapmano that will come in your master install kit
@@TheBFHGarage Okay, thank you. ARB don't mention install kits. In fact, they say everything you need comes in the box for the locker. I'm in the UK and finding it hard to get the info. Appreciate your help and your awesome videos.
Dear sir I've been watching the videos on the diff work you do and impressed is there a way to ask you question about Dana44....my spider gearsin my lsd jeep...are chopped andIwanna get a locker from yukon and get them things. Outta there do you have a email address or something
On my channel home page
@TheBFHGarage ok thanks for the update I'll check it out..my name is Keith from tn..
Why did you remove the pinion? Surely the ARB centre can be installed just by removing old differential centre and ring gear? If you're re-using the same r&p, you don't need to re-shim it for pinion depth, just for backlash and carrier-bearing pre-load.
@@TheSwordsmon different gears. If you're using the same gears, then you are correct.
Great video Mike. I am ready to make the upgrades to my stock toyota 2015 tacoma. my problem is that I am not this savy. Where are you and do you do this for customers?
I only work on Jeep Wranglers, sorry!
Good video
Insanely helpful vid! Do you need to worty about tooth pattern in compound as much if you’re just reusing your same ring n pinion on a new arb? (Front dana 30 zj)
If all you're doing is changing over your ring gear to the ARB, you should be able to just put it right back in there. I would check backlash and pattern before you pull it though and compare to when you put it back in.
Sorry I was distracted when I replied. When you are installing an ARB, you shouldn't have to reset the pinion. You will just have to make your backlash correct. And that will still take some time because you're going to have to mess around with a seal housing and all of that. So that part will be different. But you should not have to mess with the pinion gear.
@@TheBFHGarage You rock sir! Think I should replace bearings while in there? Jeep has 215k
Carrier bearings will get changed out with the ARB.... Yes, I would change out pinion bearings while you're in there.
@@TheBFHGarage ok screw it, I’m doin a full regear front and back as well 🤣. 💸
Had mine installed last year on my tacoma. Its leaking air out of a release valve on the other side of where the supply line is going in. I didn't see that valve in your video though, any ideas?
See my reply to your other comment.
Hi, thank you this vid. I found a hp Dana 30 that I need to re-gear to 373. Do I need to order different gear set than I would a normal front axle? I’ve heard some say reverse cut? Any insight would be great
If it is a high pinion Dana 30, yes you will need to get your gears in reverse cut.
Hello Mike. I just installed my arb air locker and when I assembled them I tested the locker. The locker works but every time I turned them on and when my wheel does half turn I can hear a pop or clunk after that it disappeared. It seems only happens when I turned on the lockers, any idea? Thank you and more power to you.
If everything is operating correctly then it may just need to break in. The other thing I would check if you're hearing a clunk is your driveshaft and axle shaft u-joints.
@@TheBFHGarage cool. I'll sure to break it in and as the arb said to change oil after 1500 miles. My drive shaft and U joints are good and always have Grease in it and yes locker works 👌🏾. I appreciate your time. Thanks.
@@Bignaz_overland fyi the clunk you hear may just be the locker engaging. If the splines aren't lined up exactly when you activate it, then it will once they do. Same thing for unlocking. If the axle shaft is in a bind, which often happens in Moab, then it will not unlock until it comes out of bind. Perfectly normal.
@@TheBFHGarage sweet, Thank you. I actually watched your video 3x before doing mine 😂😂😂. Thanks Mike!
really great content, thank's a lot! Just a question: If I just keep the stock pinion and put in a locker - do I then even need to remove the pinion? Just in case the bearings are still fine ofc.
If all you are doing is swapping in a locker and NOT changing gears, then theoretically it's a direct swap. I would highly recommend checking backlash and run a pattern prior to taking things apart. Most likely you will have to adjust carrier bearing shims as they can be different. For example, the ARB uses different bearings. Since you aren't changing the pinion, you should only have to get backlash back to where it was which is probably easier said than done.
@@TheBFHGarage great. thank you for your quick answer! also appreciate your other videos, watching them atm. have a good new year
Question, when you are locked does the compressor works and makes noise all that time?
No. The compressor only runs long enough to engage the locker...maybe a second or two. Then it will kick on every so often for a second just to maintain pressure.
@@TheBFHGarage Thanks, I have mine on the way for a JLU.
Great Video. What if i was wanting to install that same locker but wanted to reuse my same gears. Would it be possible that the same shims will be needed? Or at least would the pinion stay the same?
If you are only changing the carrier to a locker, you should be able to reuse the gears. You shouldn't have to change anything with pinion depth. The difficult part is getting the same backlash and gear pattern. I would recommend checking and noting the current backlash. Then run a pattern before taking anything apart. Take pictures. Then set the same backlash and make sure the pattern matches too. The reason for this is that gears get work hardened when you break them in when new. This is a difficult thing to do, but doable.
Thank you.
@@TheBFHGarage @The BFH Garage I really liked and appreciate the video, it answered a lot of questions that I have about putting in an air locker. I noticed that your old differential just fell out on you, and you said that was a bad sign. I had my axles regeared (at a specialty drivetrain shop) about 9mo ago, and had a failure of a spider gear which I noticed while trying to fix a front axle seal leak. The differential practically jumped out into my hands when I pulled it out .. I take it that's bad. It's of little consequence at this point, since I'm changing out the guts of that diff anyway, but it makes me suspect that my rear diff may have a similar issue. :-( Planning to self-install an ARB in the back later this year, so I'll have a chance to investigate at that point. As with the poster who originally asked, I'm hoping to be able to leave the pinion alone. I suspect that I won't be able to tell whether the bearing preload is right now that the bearings are a bit worn-in and fully lubricated, do you think it's worth trying to measure that before I go down the installation / setting backlash path? After matching backlash, I assume I should still go ahead and check the tooth contact pattern?
@@ivymike1031 ok, a lot to your post. First, that was a stock axle, the carrier falling out can be normal as the entire system is broken in and worn at that point. When installing new stuff, we want the preload to be tight at the axle housing will flex under load. Lockers need to be tight. As far as my changing anything with the pinion, it can be done if you're using the same gears but it needs extra attention to get it right. If you are using new gears, all bets are off.
Thank you! Awesome Video!! I just broke my tj rear axle so am planning on upgrading to super 35 from revolution gears and axle. Currently my arb Locker is RD102 which is for 27spline. So I called arb to figure out how to upgrade to splice 30. they told me to get part # 728j031c. Do you think it works with RD 102? I have been watching this video more than 10 times to solve my problem. Thank you in advance!
I haven't done a Super35...ARB is your best source.
i wouldn't waste any more money on a 35 upgrade, I would look for a 44 housing and build that,
When you use the dummy race to do the pinion setup, instead of "machining" off some of the material from the outside with a Dremel or whatever, why not just cut it with a single vertical slice? Much easier! That will allow it to be pushed in fairly easily, as it can close up slightly when it's squeezed hard. It's only the height of the bearing race that matters for that setup, so that won't change. I do the same cutting with a scrap race to make a tool for tapping or pressing in new races (as it's a perfect fit, but doesn't get stuck).
Think about your statement. I'm not trying to take material off the backside of the race, rather around the outside of it.
@@TheBFHGarage No, I understand that. But to reduce the diameter of the dummy race, rather than trying to evenly grind some material off all the way round the circumference, if you make a thin cut all the way through it, it can spring open and closed. At rest, it will remain the same diameter, but it can be squeezed a few thou smaller with reasonable ease. Like your version, it can then be pushed in and out by hand rather than needing to be pressed or tapped with a hammer. And it's easier to do, and it has the benefit that when it's done, the dummy race has still got its pristinely round and shiny outer surface, without the marks, roughness, and flats from the grinding.
Give it a try.