Tools needed to remove a crown vic subframe f100
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- Опубликовано: 26 янв 2016
- The basic tools required and order of removal for fastest results. I've removed over 60 of these and found this order to be the most efficient. 2003 models frequently get hung up on the larger aluminum upper brackets. Long pry bar helps to solve that.
Sometimes the long bolts are crazy hard to remove due to rust, corrosion or loctite. Long breaker bar and a strong back are needed.
Most frames can be dropped in 20 minutes or less.
I did not cover the 2003-2005 models having a plug for power steering pressure sensor. Nor the plug on the motor attached to the rack and pinion. That motor is for the variable power steering assist system. On all models there are ABS line you can cut. 2006+ have plugs on back side of wheel bearing.
Great Vid! I would suggest in the description a list of tools and extension lengths, that way people could print it out. If you check out Texasknowhow in one of his vids he tells what parts you can get from Ford and part numbers the 4 spacers, bolts and nuts. He also give a web site that someone makes a kit for the trailing arms that can be welded in on your frame. If that helps!
Here are those parts from Ford:
Bolts (4) - W713803-S439
Nuts (4) - N804431 S441
Spacers (also referred to as tubes) - 3W1Z-5D096-AA
FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS EXACTLY!!! This was a great video. I did exactly what you showed and it dropped out in an hour to an hour and a half. Everything he mentions is necessary and is worth doing. The stubby 18mm wrench for the power steering line is a must. Thank you for spending the time to make this video.
Wow, you are the man! You made it sooo easy! Hardest part was loading it in my truck. Your video is very helpful. 👍🏻
I'm just about to get a front end for 63 Unibody. I just searched for front end removal video and you're the only one who has made one it seems. This helped so much now I'm not going in blind! I took notes lol. I will probably do a video of removing mine so there's more videos out there, will definitely do a channel shout out in my video! Really like your videos too keep it up!
This procedure worked perfectly! I also used your tips for checking out the health of the IFS before pulling it, and I pulled the passenger side back main bolt before I did the whole procedure as you suggested in your 2nd video. Now I have a great IFS out of a Lincoln Town Car, and can't wait to get it into my '49 Studebaker truck! Thanks a ton!
i just took one off a 2008. i followed all your steps, even took a small 18mm wrench and took off the power steering line really fast lol . it took me about a hour to drop everything. This video is perfect lol, thanks man.
Just pulled a 04 Grand Marquis, instructions were spot on!
Take what he says seriously and get a short 18mm, he's 100% right, it'll make the power steering removal much, much easier. A short 21mm would also help.
I did it without an impact, just breaker bars, and we broke a 21mm deep well - bring impact sockets at the least.
With no power tools, we found and removed one in under 2 hours.
I also recently made a video of me removing one that was live on my Instagram..... but I uploaded it here too!
Thank you for this video. It was incredibly handy when pulling my first CV front end. Luckily, the engine was out on mine but using hand tools, it took a couple of hours. The last tip on loosening the four 15mm bolts to drop out the suspension I think was the best and I think the most important. Great video, thanks again.
Just want to say thank you for this! I took 2 of them out this morning! Took me about 1.5 hours for them both. But I had a little more difficulty due to being in the salt state of Wisconsin
Thanks for the Vid!!! Have changed engine oil pan gasket using your video. It's way better than dropping transmission. Did some extra steps, like: taking calipers off, unscrewed rack & pinion (used bungee cord to hang it on sway bar), unscrew sway bar links (but keep the sway bar in). It took me about 45 min to drop crossmember off and get full access to the oil pan.
Thanks again.
Used your video and pulled my crown Vic front end today at the junk yard . Took about 30 min . Definitely need the stubby 18mm for the power steering line . I didn’t have that and that was what took most of my time . Thank you for your video , your information was dead on . They charged me $520.00 bucks though …. Ouch
Thanks for posting this. I followed your directions and had no trouble. I did tie the motor up just to be safe as I feared it might drop. Now to narrow it up 4-3/4" to fit my '48 Chev car.
Glad to help. I've dropped close to 80-90 of these now and even dropped one this afternoon.
Today I cut out the 4 anti-crush tubes to re-use on my project. It went easier than expected. I used a 1-3/4" bimetal hole saw and removed the pilot drill from the hole saw so I wouldn't hurt the threads in the tube. The hole saw is just over 1-1/2" inside dia. so it pilots on the top of the tube. Once the frame rails are cut from the top the tubes are loose and can be pulled out. In my case on the front two tube holes when the factor punched the holes the punch just folded the slug down and it did not break free, so when they welded the tubes in the hole slug is now attached to the tube. the slug then interfered with lifting the tube out, If this happens, just thread one of the long bolts in from the bottom to full thread engagement and hammer up on the bolt head (or jack up the bolt head) and the tube will come out. The hole saw cut the frame rail in under 3 minutes per cut. :)
J. Gregg I thought about doing something like that. Never tried though
Used this video today to drop the subframe off a local guy who was parting out his 05' Crown Vic. A local shop was asking $900 for one that he had. I was able to get this one for $150! Malachi you saved me a bunch of money and this video gave me the confidence to go for it. Thank you so much!
It took me about 2.5 hours because I forgot the 1/2 drive for my impact gun so I did everything by hand. (dummy). Definitely needed the breaker bar. Also I was afraid the whole thing was going to fall on me while I was under the car but not until I pry barred the thing out did it move. Also, great final tip on driver side first and with loosening the bolt on the arm, it allowed the whole subframe to fall. Lastly, this thing is about 400 pounds so make sure you have the energy and manpower to move it if youre not at your shop.
Alex Mac Glad it helped you.
Thank you very much for posting this it saved me alot of time and headaches
Thanks for this! I followed this video step-by-step and was able to pull the front-end out in about three hours. Being my first and only time doing this, I took it slow. There should be a caution though. You don't want anybody under the Clip when you loosen this last four nuts. I barely loosened them on the driver's side and that puppy came down. Only cost me $250 including wheels and tires.
Great price!
Just what I needed! Thanks.
Great video thanks gonna save me a bunch of time
Great video very helpful much appreciated. 🤔😉🙄
Awesome tutorial and helped me pull one today.
One FYI, apparently there are Crown Vic's with a steering lock and the oil cooler. Looks like they are detective models or another service package. If you run into this and cannot reach the steering shaft bolt, the column can be unbolted under the dash (10 mm) and as the sub frame drops it will pull the inner column off and now the steering can be rotated to access the bolt.
Glad to help. It really isn't very hard if you go in with the right tools. Good to know...... I have never seen that set-up and have pulled about 60+ of these so far.
Yeah, it was odd...oil cooler, certified speedo, real back seat, no holes in the dash...and a steering lock and a CD player.
Oh, and ours is going into a 1948 Plymouth Sedan that we use as a 24 hours of LeMons racer...should be interesting since all the vintage Mopar forum say it is too wide for our application.
Michael Krenzer that sounds awesome! I'll subscribe for video updates. I love crazy stuff.
@@ykmalachi I found 2007 any special or different tools I need to remove?
I watched all of your f100 videos and they are very helpful. Did you use the crown vic rear end or an explorer rear end like other swaps I've seen. Also how did your intake mod work?
+Donny Fast I used the cars axle. fits fine. intake mod was a bust. I bought the solid aluminum intake and never had a problem again.
+ykmalachi did you have to notch the frame for the rear end? thanks for the reply
I’d recommend a 21mm crows foot for undoing main bolts from underneath
But your video was awesome it helped very much 👍
That would work...... but take like 2 hours. And I don't know of any company making strong enough ones to do that.
Im working on a CV swap to a 56 F250 … my question is do you need to wire for the ABS from the CV or can you just omit them altogether ? I assume if I don't wire them I just wont have ABS which isn't a big deal to me
Correct. Just cut the wire if you have the early versions. 2003-2005? Later years just unplug at the bearing.
I want to drop the motor, trans, crossmember as a unit. any tutorials on that? I have done the trans crossmember on the car before, I recall it was like it was pressfit in..
You can drop it all straight down. Make 100% sure all harness and connectors are removed. Exhaust will be a hassle and should be yanked first I think.
What have you done when you experience a stock 21 mm bolt that just won’t come? I’m trying to pull an 08 and I’ve got one that just won’t come even with an extension on a breaker bar. The Milwaukee just looks at it and cries.
I have never found one I can't get with a huge bar on a 1/2 ratchet or breaker bar. If you can heat the threaded bung in the top of frame rail..... that might help. But yes..... some of those I bought in Michigan were like that. Wicked hard.
@@ykmalachi I finally got it. Soaked it in pb blaster and put a longer pipe over the breaker. I thought my 12 point husky 21 mm socket was gonna break before the old school craftsman breaker but somehow both survived and it finally came. Lot of flex in that setup. Rare bolt the Milwaukee wouldn’t handle.
Hey great video, thanks for sharing. So you mention that if the transmission support is still in place the front end will drop off. Will this hurt the engine? I am planning to use the 4.6l v8 but don't have any place to put the engine and transmission before putting the front suspension on my f100. If I could leave it in place and not do damage that sounds like a better option. Let me know and thanks for the video.
Does not hurt anything. The trans crossmemeber will hold everything up.
@@ykmalachi perfect, thank you.
Does this also apply to the non Police Interceptor? Are there any differences?
Nope. Same job. Police cars make getting the nut on the power steering line a tiny bit harder to remove from the timing cover due to the oil cooler. But identical job
Are 06 and 07 same have both which should I use
Same thing.
Has anyone done a 2002(?) Lightning frame swap? You don't have to cut the bed...
What's the going price for the IFS?
Never seen it. Might be a good idea.
@@ykmalachi
V8 TV? I'd have to look, it's been a while. Stuck in a chair at home sick, for the moment.
cold ass vidieo thanks wish i could do a few jobs with u in person.
they don't mix metric and standard bolts on cars... your 15/16 nut is a 24mm.
Wrong. They use inches on wheels to this day. As well as on the lug nuts on these cars. So while a 24mm is interchangablebwith a 15/16ths..... your attempts to sound smart are not totally factual. *wink wink.... fucking with you*
just look at the vin if it says P71 its a police package.
ford nut it is not in the VIN itself. look on the option tag. having pulled over 70 of these, the best method is the oil cooler check. faster than any other means.
ford nut yes it is the vin if it has p71 in the vin its police package.