DIY Windowed Piston (Motorized Bike)
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- Опубликовано: 29 июл 2022
- This is how I window my pistons with only one tool. It's fast, easy, and reliable.
Note: Windowing a piston will always weaken it, but I find this size and shape to work well for me.
My pistons with this style of window have run for years, and have reached 9k RPMs without breaking... I have no idea if they will hold up over 10K, Never pushed them that far.
Bits I use: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
We upload motorized bike videos every week (sometimes more)!
FAQs:
Oil: 32:1, semi synthetic, random brands.
Gas: 87oct
Spark Plug: NGK B8HS (yd-100), NGK B6HS (pk80)
Parts: I buy mostly from Amazon.
Favorite Motor: Zeda (Firestorm) Triple 40
Favorite Carburetor: NT Speed
Favorite Bike For A Motor: Huffy Cranbrook
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I find drilling at least one hole in the center of where I want the window to be really saves time. You can lay out your desired window shape with a sharpie before hand drill however many holes you think you need and then finish up with the burrs to get the final desired shape. I also take the time to round the edges of my window on the skirt side. Not sure if it helps anything but it makes me feel all warm and fuzzy on the inside.
I love everything about this video..thanks for the info!!
Love your videos Man very informative and easy to understand great window job on your piston there too I also have noticed that smaller windows tend to work better .
The only thing I haven't tried is putting in a boost port and after watching this video kind of want to put in a boost Port now lol do you have any more specific information on how to do a boost Port like can it be only so high does it got to go all the way down to the crank how many millimeters deep should you grind out
Cool vid man, wondered how those are done!! Thanks
Very well explained, easy for a newbie to understand.
I was gonna throw another $50 at my bike & go with a VM22/G2 reed combo .I did see that not all VM22 clones are alike. One guy bought 4 VM22 clones from 4 different sellers. The 2 good ones had mushroom shaped jets that worked fine out of the box while the other 2 didn't. The 2 junk ones had non mushroom head/straight tube shaped jets & would never run right. Plus different number of holes & different sizes.
I wanted to just go bigger carb/ piston port but have clearance issues & also would need a different intake$.
The reed will accomplish 3 things, #1 solve clearance issues #2 won't back spit gas out the carb/better mpg #3 more power or at least better bottom end, smoother throughout whole throttle range VS the shorty intake that's choppy/rough at low & mid throttle.
I just drill with a step bit then quickly shape it. Way quicker & easier. They come out nice too. Well centered.
Do you actually need a windowed piston to run a reed valve?
Any videos coming on how to make boost ports? Great work and very informative.
Nice vid man. I'd like to put a reed on one of my engines soon. I did a third transfer on one of my "junk" cylinders so that's the only way I could use it.
Thank you very much for showcasing your work. It definitely is informative and helpful to me to know whether I should do certain things to my motor or just leave some things be, as I have to keep realibalty in mind too.
See I was wondering if I should bother with the Reed valve system and a windowed piston or if I should just let it keep running with ports the way it was designed to run. Now I know the answer to that. A little bit of extra fuel efficiency doesn't really matter to me, these things are great on fuel regardless. So now I know to concentrate more on Port work, which I am nervous of screwing up therefore I will be watching as much on that subject as I can prior to doing anything more than polishing the exaust side and getting rid of overhang. Maybe put a stinger pipe with a silencer on or the m65/m65 clone. As well as concentrate more on carburetor/jetting and getting rid of that restrictive Factory air box. I have to say I'm pretty happy with the baofeng carb, at least at my elevations, it seems to run pretty darn good with its Factory jetting. The only thing is that restrictive airbox so you know I drilled some holes into it. but I'd rather have a cone filter on it. Otherwise in my situation I feel like the baofeng is just as good as any performance carburetor would be. I don't think they make the cone filters that strapped to the factory carburetors anymore. I have very little space between the carburetor and my rear frame rail. So in order to upgrade the carburetor I would have to get one of those intakes that zigzags around that rail so the carburetor can sit more outwards. That's fine with me as long as the angles on the manifold are not Sharp but rather gradual. I've seen some that seem to have like a almost a 90° Bend in, that's an over-exaggeration obviously. But it's a pretty sharp curve. So I got a few ideas there. like I said I really like the baofeng carburetor to begin with. It's just that stupid airbox so I was thinking that if I can't find one of those low-profile cone filters. Maybe I can hack the airbox, essentially removing those tubes off the top so it's actually round then just drill out the whole centre face of the plastic and that could give me a platform to strap one of the cone filters designed for the performance carburetor to it. Again though, my problem being the rear frame rail gets in the way. I was wondering if maybe some high strength to vacuum hose, of appropriate ID, could simply be attached to my custom Port matched Factory intake manifold thus giving me a little bit of flexibility to get the carburetor to set around the outside of the frame rail a little bit so I can do the above-mentioned idea and attach a cone filter to it. And if I really want to get into the jet work I can still use the bowfang. I just might have to solder and drill. But it seems the factory, I believe 70 mm, jet works fine at my elevation which is about 1,000 feet above sea level never going below 500 ft.
I love your videos man you're very informative and very intelligent when it comes to these. Believe me when I say your videos have helped me a lot ❤
I've had plans to attempt this myself for a while now. I read somewhere that smaller windows are better for torque while larger windows are better for high rpm, but there's not much information on it, so I plan to start small to compare the difference for myself
There really isn't much advantage in creating a hole in the piston who's area exceeds that of the intake port. Huge windows can be beneficial for high RPM power but these engines aren't really intended to go screaming to 9000+ RPM to begin with. A single small vertical rectangular window like he made in this video is way more than sufficient for these engines.
@@OddBallPerformance Thanks for the feedback :)
Bro which side to make window or skirt, intake or exhaust side
@@erwinjavellana9526 INTAKE
I don't even know what windowed pistons do or help with, but im watching
Do you have any idea if this would be beneficial (or even work) on a rotary valve 2 stroke?
Great job hover on this tutorial a lot of people make them way to large. I made mine no larger than my intake port because that causes more piston ware. Getting a 36 tooth in the mail so hopefully my iron bore will be flying!
Dead serious question though can I just drill a round hole and leave it like that? I mean aside from removing burs and whatnot.
Do you know if you could do with a stock engine pull a window piston?
Whats the 26' wheels you recomend? Geminis? I cant find them
Can someone explain what a reed valve is and what a window does meaning how it lets the air in
I tried it that way. I stayed about 2-3mm from the top where it's thicker. I did a test fit, and now you can seeabout a 3-4mm gap when the piston hit bottom. The hole is supposed to be gone right? Or does that matter.
Are we making good progress
Is this what they call porting ?
Great video! Curious, can I rinse the piston down with running water, dry it, use parts cleaner and then use air to finish it off? Is using water a bad idea? Thanks!
Water works for me.
Hello mate. I'm having trouble I ordered a cylinder from amazon didn't realise the hole for the carb screws were different sizes on these. My holes are 40mm for the carb intake and 40mm for the exhaust intake. What size engine does that make my engine. Also the one I ordered I would of sent back as the quality was terrible. Any feedback would be appreciated cheers.
There are two intake sizes that I know of, 38mm and 40mm.
Most use 40mm these days except for the cheapest kits.
Size of motor depends on bore and stroke. I have no idea what yours is.
Have you ever talked about Torque specs?
I've had a kit for 3 years. it's ran about 6 times. I want to get it up and running before Summer is completely over. I cannot get it to fire or hold fuel.
Check head bolts. Swap the plug. Put it in . The boot and hold it to the head of the engine push bike look for spark if none swap magneto. Pull. Bowl on carb and see if gas flows with tank turned on. Gas oil spark compression
CDI’s rarely fail still possible
Was on my bike yesterday going home after work when a tapping I've been hearing mistaking it for the clutch basket . And yesterday omw home from work the engine started making loud noise, then whack it hung up. After stopping I could rock the wheel back and for which freed it.. my question is assume the damage isn't in the crankcase and pahaspe something just feel in. Can I take cylinder and shake whatever in there out, or would I have to split it.
All depends on what broke and how bad it is when you pull the jug. I really can't say.
Lucky for me I had ordered a 2nd motor kit for my wife's bike but she had trouble starting it so had to get her a 4stroke friction drive. Was sad that I bought a whole kit for no reason but now it seems it was a blessing lol. Now I hope I have better luck with her motor. But I do see the need for the things you speak on ur channel and plan to buy another motor and really go through it like I should of done to begin with. I just had my bike together before I really started wat hing videos and never took em apart to check em. Threw them on and went to town. What site was it that you recommend buying from.
Cool vid 👍 just uploaded me and some freinds motorised bicycles fun run day out 😃
I have a question, Is there any way to make these motors emit less pollution and to make them less noisy?
Real dirtbike muffler will make them fairly quiet.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of making a larger window, or a dual window, which I see a lot.
you just need a window with the size of the intake port, there are dual dual windows when the intake port is devided with a support bridge on the midle, personaly i prefer to always have also a direct entrance to inside of the crank casesome boyesen boost ports or just a simple channel down from the intake port to the case, some good cylinders you can look to take reference is the honda cr 85 and the italkit 54mm for honda nsr 75
My best guess is that the dual window would make a smaller intake opening, which would increase the flow velocity from the intake to the crankcase. Aside from that, a smaller window will reduce the intake duration and a longer window shape with give you more intake duration. I'd suspect a smaller duration would be easier to tune and would favor more low end power, and a longer duration would increase the fuel mix drawn into the crankcase which could allow more high end power, but also risk "loading up" at idle/lower RPM. If you're cutting your own, I think starting with a window roughly the same area as the intake port. You want the top of the window to pass the bottom edge of the intake port just past BDC.
Dual window leaves metal to help keep the piston stay stronger.
Looks like these builders got to it first.
What are the advantages of "windowing" a piston? Anything to do with piston port timing?
Along with weight reduction on moving parts I believe that’s the case.
I explain in the video 3 reasons they can be beneficial...
I know this is irrelevant but, I have two 66cc motors and the screw in the cover for the cover for the stator, a screw is stripped Ellen key.
How do you messure the window size if u don't have clear area for it inside the skirt like in this video?
Mark the piston from the intake with it all assembled.
@@CORYJOHNMyou mean take the carb off and mark the center of the piston thew the intake port right?
@@crispymen8976 yes
@@CORYJOHNM understood! Thanks.
What part of LA. Are you located?
He lives in Louisiana
Hadir nyimak bosqu👍
FYI bike berry is running ads on your videos. Judging from their reputation for less than stellar products and service in the discord and the general motorized bike community, I figured you might like to know that.
You can't really control what ads appear on each video as they tend to be personalised to each individual user.
But I will back up that BikeBerry is not worth your time and money, you may as well order off ebay, amazon etc... because you're getting the exact same thing. The quality is no different just because of a brand name
What ads show are out of the creators hands. Nothing I can do about it.
I thought all you needed is a third transfer port without the need to window the piston?
Soooo. I see you did not watch the video, cool, cool...
@@LAHover right?! Even my tiny channel suffers from this 🤦🏼♀️
i dno where else to ask u this question so ill ask it here! what kind of fuel filter can i get thats not complete and total leaky dogshit? i tried sealing it with seal all but it looks like ill have to keep applying it over time. just want one that aint gonna leak and similar size :/
Just grab a Fran inline from your local auto parts store.
use plumber's tape on the nipples
But,...but....You didn't show us how to bend the glass to fit..
Lol. That's the tricky part :P
😛
first!
debating whether to try this or just risk getting a wrong size windowed piston on amazon